So good mate. I’m the type that will crimp/solder/splice etc not a drama but understanding what connects to what and why is beyond me. Having it spelled out very simply like this gives me the confidence to have a go!! Thank you 🙏🏼🙏🏼
Good job thanks. I got the new Core BCDC and it has no extras like heat shrink and butt joiners. Bit ordinary dont ya think after forking out $500? 1/ I dont quite understand the earthing. Are you saying... run the black wire from BCDC to Aux battery negative terminal, and ALSO run another earth from Battery negative terminal to the body (chassis) of my caravan? 2/ And regarding the solar, the earth needs to go to the chassis of caravan, or the negative terminal on the Aux Battery? Thanks mate... appreciate you efforts here.
If you just run one wire from the battery negative to a chassis earth then after that it won't matter if you connect everything else to the battery or chassis. It will all be linked together. Just make sure the negative wire going from the battery to chassis is thick enough to handle all loads
well explained. What if I decide to install REDARC battery Isolator as will, how it will interact with BC/DC 1225 dual charger and are they by any means connected together
Thank you 👍 you shouldn't need an isolator if installing the charger. It won't accept charge from the starter battery unless it detects there's enough charge there. It means it will never flatten your starter battery
That's right you don't need an isolator but if you want install one to keep the link jumpstart function for other applications just watch our tutorial vid in the link here. Maybe it can help you. bye! th-cam.com/video/Lo2eiNzOYG8/w-d-xo.html
Job is all finished now and working good it seems EXCEPT for one problem... every time I plug in my Starter battery (via Anderson plug) to my BCDC charger red wire, the "Van Battery" 15amp fuse blows. I thought about changing to a 20amp fuse to try if it will work, but worried about fires and stuff. I double check all BCDC wiring is correct and all good. I ran the blue wire to a vacant pin on my 12 pin plug that gains power only when car is started... so that should do it right? Its got me stumped. Regarding earthing... you say to run both BCDC and AUX battery earths separately to chassis earth, but I install a terminal block earthed to chassis and from terminal block to Battery -ve, and instead of running BCDC black wire to chassis, I just run it to the terminal block, Is this not the same thing?
I have a regulated solar panel that I’ve been using to power my portable aux battery. Do I need to bypass the regulator on the solar to connect to the 1225? Can I “T” into the wire before the regulator on the solar panels so I can still use it as stand alone?
Yeah cut between the solar panel and the regulator & add extra Anderson plugs. That way you can still use the regulator if needed and still bypass it when using the battery charger 👍
Where does the earth come from for the solar cable. I see that the yellow cable is to be connected to your + solar through an Anderson plug but where does the negative cable come from the fits it the Anderson plug?
G'day Paul, great upload, thanks! Just a query. Will a normal solar blanket (200w monocrystalline) run through a RedArc BCDC1225D to a 120ah Lithium LifePO4 battery? The solar blanket I'm buying comes with an MPPT regulator, however, obviously I won't connect that and just plug the solar blanket straight into the RedArc and select a lithium profile. Does all that sound ok? Cheers mate.
Great video. I am about to setup a dual battery on my truck. I would like to match the size of each wire for my connections. What are the size/gage of each wire?
Thanks mate 👍 I used 6mm but I didn't have to go far. When you purchase the charger in the instructions it list's what size wire you need depending on the length wire you'll be using
I’ve wired this up in a 2020 hiace, the charger lights up and says it’s charging without the blue ignition wire. Does this sound right or do I need to wire in this blue wire ?
For a non technical person like me, if the solar panel is fitted with an anderson plug, how do you go about connecting this to the single yellow solar wire from the bcdc?
It's easy mate 👍 the positive from the Anderson plug will lead to the yellow wire & join to it. The negative on the Anderson plug will be run to a body earth or the negative battery terminal
sorry if its a repeat question, but with this unit does it also function as a mpt solar controller? ie can I ditch my mpt controller & just connect the solar to this? Thanks for a great vid
Hi mate great video, very clear explanation and im confident i can take this on myself after seeing this. 2 questions: 1. Im planning to install the dc/dc charger in a cubby in the rear of my Wrangler, do you think splicing into the rear windscreen wipers for the blue ignition cable will suffice? 2. ive heard its worth having a fuse (in this case youve said midi fuses) at each end between battery and dc/dc charger; ie a fuse close to cranking battery and close to dc/dc charger, then another fuse close to the dc/dc charger and the aux battery, is that necessary or will the single fuse close to each battery be fine?
Thanks mate 👍 any source that picks up a strong 12v ignition signal is fine so long as it's not running through an ecu. But wiper motors are usually fine. No harm in running extra fuses if you want to be cautious but the power from the main battery leading to the charger in the rear of the car means the power input starts at the battery so as long as the fuse is close to the main battery it won't continue travelling down the vehicle past the fuse if there's an issue. You only need the 2 fuses total but do what ever makes you feel safer mate
hi mate, im confuse with the wiring to my REDARC 1220 , im using AGM battery , i have standard alternator, but as per you DEMO blue wire is not connected because if you use standard alternator, Orange wire not connected if you have AGM battery so meaning this Blue and Orange wire are not connected to any wire , , because as per my diagram i can connect this blue and orange to RED wire they are all Positive ..need you help thanks.
Blue wire is only an ignition trigger wire for smart alternators on newer vehicles. Orange wire is your battery type wire. The 1220 is a bit different to the 1225. The orange wire can either be left disconnected, connected to the positive or negative depending on your battery type. Connect the orange wire to what ever the manual says. I can't remember off the top of my head what the 1220 is sorry
I have an unregulated solar panel from kings 110w, do I just crimp the positive coming out of the panel to the yellow wire and cap off the negative so it won't short coming out of the panel?
The manager 30 already has a charger built in so you wouldn't use a bcdc1225d with the manager 30. Redvision you'd usually run with the manager 30 so you don't need the bcdc1225d for either of them
Awesome video, so detailed and well spoken! I had one of these installed under the bonnet but it’s getting a bit warm for my liking so relocating it to the rear and running two batteries as I’ll have more space. You said to use Midi fuses instead of blades, and to put them at the “battery end”. Did you mean for both batteries? As in one between cranking batt and charger at cranking batt end, then one between charger and aux batt at aux end?
Thank you 👍 I just wish I had a microphone back when I recorded this video lol. Blade fuses have melted in the past so redarc recommend using the midi fuses. Put one right next to your cranking battery and another one right next to your auxiliary battery. Any wire coming off of your positive battery terminal is unused until it reaches the fuse so you want the wire as short as possible between the fuse and battery terminal to prevent it rubbing on anything & possibly causing a fire
The manual from the bcdc1225d shows to connect the yellow wire directly to the unregulated solar panel & the earth to the body. No need for a relay as there's never any need for it to shut off
@@Campingdownunder yeh I seen there’s another wiring one with the relay ? So the way you have hooked it up when the car starts up does it change over to alternator charging?
The redarc chargers are designed with green power priority charging. Meaning it will pull as much as possible from the solar panels before touching your alternator. It does it all automatically
That's the easiest place to pick up an ignition trigger under the bonnet. Unless you want to go directly to the fuse box and find something that only turns on with the ignition
@@Campingdownunder . . With this 1225D I don't need an isolator correct? Gunna install in truckbed. What gauge wire for approx 11' ? 4gauge? Or 6 gauge?
No you don't need the isolator. It's smart and only takes charge from the main battery when it detects it's high enough volts. Go with 6. Always better to have wire too big than not big enough
hi again me, i want to ask 1 more question maybe you can help, i brought battery box i put in the cabin , then im planning to connect my REDARC BCDC 1220 to battery box, for auxillary , and also i have solar panel with mppt controller, just incase enginge running is both the BCDC and Solar Panel are charging same together to my battery box what do you think
You said that "no need to connect the orange wire" if charging AGM battery! How about recharging regular flooded acid battery, is the orange wire connected to anything?
@@Campingdownunder Do you have to disconnect the battery before connecting the green and blue? I did it while the battery was connected and it didn't switch to lithium profile. I changed from agm 2 lithium. Cheers 4 help 👍
@renegadecampervan5017 yes always have the batteries disconnected from the charger when changing profiles. The charger only searches for a charging profile when it boots up after being powered down
I have 2 battery's, 170 watt solar panel. I have wired the regulated solar power to a battery switch, then connected both battery's. Now when the truck sits for months at a time, both battery are charged when on both , or rear battery when camping with fridge. i have bought a redark 25 amp dc dc charger? , how best to install?
You can't run a separate solar regulator with the redarc bcdc1225d. The charger already has a built-in solar regulator so you need to bypass the solar regulator and put the positive wire from the solar panel onto the yellow solar input wire of the charger
Everyone argues over that. The crimp should be filled with solder in my opinion to create the best electrical join. The crimp is solid so the solder can't break inside. There are some things I don't solder because it can make the wire brittle. But even redarc themselves tell you to solder these joints
@@Campingdownunder thanks for reply. I solder mine. I thought I was doing it wrong. I think I'll place another heat shrink that's longer to stabilise the wire movement
Hey man congratulations nice video so i can use one othose well i have 200w solar panel. Can use one on those to connect to my alternator or battery can charge my solar's battery? Pls help me..
It will choose to take charge from your solar panels first to charge your auxiliary battery & what ever the solar panel can't provide it will then take charge from the alternator
How do you feel, taking away business from any auto electrician? When people get it wrong, they come to the blokes who know what they’re doing but whinge cause of what we charge. Bravo mate.
I try to help people & give them the skills to install accessories themselves without having to pay over $100 per hour. I'm a trained accessory fitter so if I can share my skills and help people out then why not? My installation videos are detailed and accurate but still simple enough for someone with no experience to understand. A battery charger is not something someone needs to go to a professional to install. If they want to do a full custom 12v setup then I'd advise people to use a professional if they aren't confident
@@Campingdownunder and my point is to the people who do not understand or get something wrong from your video, come to a professional to help fix the issue or troubleshoot, they whinge and complain about the price because YOUR videos are encouraging people to do it themselves to save money. I didn’t know accessory fitting came with a certificate 🤔
Why should someone pay double what a battery charger is worth to have it installed? 12v isn't rocket science. I have to deal with customers who try to install things themselves and end up making even more work for me to fix it. But that's why I create these videos. People are going to try & wing it themselves to save money regardless of watching any videos. I'm trying to help inform people on the correct way to install accessories safely. You think no body tried to do their own 12v knowing nothing about it just to save money before TH-cam was a thing? You can't stop people trying to save money
@@marksmith7744 id be concerned about your 12v skills if your that concerned about losing business from a old tutorial youtube video. If you were such a gun you would be too busy to even worry about youtube lol and make a stupid comment like that. Bravo mate
Manual would be fine. Auto is when you have drama's. But midi fuses are what redarc recommends. I always keep a few spare fuses in my car ready to go 👍
No need to use solder with a ratchet crimper as this will create a "cold weld" between the wire and the crimper terminal. Souldered wires are susceptible to breaking in a mobile or marine environment from vibration. FYI.
If you had installed these chargers in the past you'd realise redarc actually recommend crimping & soldering. It was a redarc sponsored video so I had to do everything their way. Auto elecs can't help but leave these comments 🤣
@@Campingdownunder That's too bad. Sounds like Redarc doesn't understand Ratchet crimper design, compression, cold weld. Not a auto elecs here. Aircraft. Vibration, corrosion, and soldering not a good combo. Not your fault, you had to follow there command as you mentioned.
So if you pay for something why would you put thier sticker on your Ute? I get sponsorship and the bigger channels mandated to show sponsors logos, but for us commoners it’s bit of a wank
@@Campingdownunder good for you, I mean that. But every red arc box has a sticker and they expect you to put it on your rig. Sorry it’s a gripe I have. If I take the slr torana out for a weekend drive I’m not getting into the malbro race suit and helmet. Yet cyclists wear Lycra for a weekend ride, and guys put stickers on thier utes for gear because they’ve paid 2k for it
Very specific install. Atleast tell people what the wire is even if it’s not for agm battery. I have lipo and since that was skipped this video didn’t help me
The only difference with lithium is you join the green & orange wire together which triggers lithium mode in the charger. It also says that in the instructions that come with the charger
I’m not sure if I’m missing it but are you meant to fuse the solar input before the dcdc charger. On all the wiring diagrams in the manual it doesn’t show a fuse
![HOW TO Install REDARC BCDC 12v Dual Battery DC-DC Battery Charger BCDC1240D [Isuzu D-Max Build #11]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/iVJXZMuMEIc/mqdefault.jpg)
![HOW TO Install REDARC BCDC 12v Dual Battery DC-DC Battery Charger BCDC1240D [Isuzu D-Max Build #11]](/img/tr.png)
So good mate. I’m the type that will crimp/solder/splice etc not a drama but understanding what connects to what and why is beyond me. Having it spelled out very simply like this gives me the confidence to have a go!! Thank you 🙏🏼🙏🏼
Cheers mate I'm glad you found it helpful 👍
Just bought one of these beauties here in England for our Ford Transit motorhome . Thanks for a great simple installation video . ;-)
You'll love it 👍
well done brother, Im using this for a lipo install in my land cruiser. subbed.
Good job thanks. I got the new Core BCDC and it has no extras like heat shrink and butt joiners. Bit ordinary dont ya think after forking out $500?
1/ I dont quite understand the earthing. Are you saying... run the black wire from BCDC to Aux battery negative terminal, and ALSO run another earth from Battery negative terminal to the body (chassis) of my caravan?
2/ And regarding the solar, the earth needs to go to the chassis of caravan, or the negative terminal on the Aux Battery?
Thanks mate... appreciate you efforts here.
If you just run one wire from the battery negative to a chassis earth then after that it won't matter if you connect everything else to the battery or chassis. It will all be linked together. Just make sure the negative wire going from the battery to chassis is thick enough to handle all loads
well explained. What if I decide to install REDARC battery Isolator as will, how it will interact with BC/DC 1225 dual charger and are they by any means connected together
Thank you 👍 you shouldn't need an isolator if installing the charger. It won't accept charge from the starter battery unless it detects there's enough charge there. It means it will never flatten your starter battery
That's right you don't need an isolator but if you want install one to keep the link jumpstart function for other applications just watch our tutorial vid in the link here. Maybe it can help you. bye! th-cam.com/video/Lo2eiNzOYG8/w-d-xo.html
Very nice video! very well explained! We also have a Redarc BCDC and very happy with it! greetings from Switzerland!
Thank you I tried to make it as simple as possible 👍 just wish I had a microphone back then lol. Greetings from Australia 🇦🇺 lol
@@Campingdownunder Thanks! I subscribed! Don't hesitate to have a look on our channel Offtrack family and tell us what do you think about our vids!
@@offtrackfamily done & great video's guys 🤙
@@Campingdownunder Thanks!
I stayed away from These chargers because I thought that there difficult to Wire up.. you made this very easy to install.. Thanks soo much
Thank you I'm glad you understand just how simple they really are. Just 4 simple wires 👍
Job is all finished now and working good it seems EXCEPT for one problem... every time I plug in my Starter battery (via Anderson plug) to my BCDC charger red wire, the "Van Battery" 15amp fuse blows. I thought about changing to a 20amp fuse to try if it will work, but worried about fires and stuff. I double check all BCDC wiring is correct and all good. I ran the blue wire to a vacant pin on my 12 pin plug that gains power only when car is started... so that should do it right? Its got me stumped.
Regarding earthing... you say to run both BCDC and AUX battery earths separately to chassis earth, but I install a terminal block earthed to chassis and from terminal block to Battery -ve, and instead of running BCDC black wire to chassis, I just run it to the terminal block, Is this not the same thing?
Red & Brown wires should be fused with 40amp fuses at both batteries for the bcdc1225d
Nice clean simple instructions. Thank you!
Thank you 👍 just a shame back then I was only recording on my phone 🤣
I have a regulated solar panel that I’ve been using to power my portable aux battery. Do I need to bypass the regulator on the solar to connect to the 1225? Can I “T” into the wire before the regulator on the solar panels so I can still use it as stand alone?
Yeah cut between the solar panel and the regulator & add extra Anderson plugs. That way you can still use the regulator if needed and still bypass it when using the battery charger 👍
Thanks mate. Awesome video that asnwered all my questions.
Glad to hear you found it helpful mate 👍
Where does the earth come from for the solar cable. I see that the yellow cable is to be connected to your + solar through an Anderson plug but where does the negative cable come from the fits it the Anderson plug?
You can connect the negative wire to any earth point on the car 👍
Yes the positive from the Anderson plug goes to the yellow wire on the charger and the negative from the Anderson plug goes to an earth point
G'day Paul, great upload, thanks! Just a query. Will a normal solar blanket (200w monocrystalline) run through a RedArc BCDC1225D to a 120ah Lithium LifePO4 battery? The solar blanket I'm buying comes with an MPPT regulator, however, obviously I won't connect that and just plug the solar blanket straight into the RedArc and select a lithium profile. Does all that sound ok? Cheers mate.
Yeah that should still work fine mate 👍
Great video. I am about to setup a dual battery on my truck. I would like to match the size of each wire for my connections. What are the size/gage of each wire?
Thanks mate 👍 I used 6mm but I didn't have to go far. When you purchase the charger in the instructions it list's what size wire you need depending on the length wire you'll be using
@@Campingdownunder thank you.
I’ve wired this up in a 2020 hiace, the charger lights up and says it’s charging without the blue ignition wire. Does this sound right or do I need to wire in this blue wire ?
You definitely need to still hook up the blue wire
Would humbly suggest a professional grade ratchet crimper, marine grade butt connectors, and heat shrink.
For a non technical person like me, if the solar panel is fitted with an anderson plug, how do you go about connecting this to the single yellow solar wire from the bcdc?
It's easy mate 👍 the positive from the Anderson plug will lead to the yellow wire & join to it. The negative on the Anderson plug will be run to a body earth or the negative battery terminal
sorry if its a repeat question, but with this unit does it also function as a mpt solar controller? ie can I ditch my mpt controller & just connect the solar to this? Thanks for a great vid
Yeah mate this regulates the solar for you so just connect your solar directly into the charger 👍
Hi mate great video, very clear explanation and im confident i can take this on myself after seeing this.
2 questions:
1. Im planning to install the dc/dc charger in a cubby in the rear of my Wrangler, do you think splicing into the rear windscreen wipers for the blue ignition cable will suffice?
2. ive heard its worth having a fuse (in this case youve said midi fuses) at each end between battery and dc/dc charger; ie a fuse close to cranking battery and close to dc/dc charger, then another fuse close to the dc/dc charger and the aux battery, is that necessary or will the single fuse close to each battery be fine?
Thanks mate 👍 any source that picks up a strong 12v ignition signal is fine so long as it's not running through an ecu. But wiper motors are usually fine. No harm in running extra fuses if you want to be cautious but the power from the main battery leading to the charger in the rear of the car means the power input starts at the battery so as long as the fuse is close to the main battery it won't continue travelling down the vehicle past the fuse if there's an issue. You only need the 2 fuses total but do what ever makes you feel safer mate
@@Campingdownunder thanks mate, yeh i think 4 fuses is overkill. ill test the voltage to the wiper motors to ensure a good signal.
hi mate, im confuse with the wiring to my REDARC 1220 , im using AGM battery , i have standard alternator, but as per you DEMO blue wire is not connected because if you use standard alternator, Orange wire not connected if you have AGM battery so meaning this Blue and Orange wire are not connected to any wire , , because as per my diagram i can connect this blue and orange to RED wire they are all Positive ..need you help thanks.
Blue wire is only an ignition trigger wire for smart alternators on newer vehicles. Orange wire is your battery type wire. The 1220 is a bit different to the 1225. The orange wire can either be left disconnected, connected to the positive or negative depending on your battery type. Connect the orange wire to what ever the manual says. I can't remember off the top of my head what the 1220 is sorry
@@Campingdownunder many thanks for the info... i watched your video 4x , many thanks more power.
Sorry about the bad audio back then. I used to record just with my phone 🤣
I have an unregulated solar panel from kings 110w, do I just crimp the positive coming out of the panel to the yellow wire and cap off the negative so it won't short coming out of the panel?
Yes connect the positive to the yellow wire. But you will need to connect the negative to an earth point to complete the circuit
Camping_downunder legend thanks
Really important question, do I have to run to BCDC 1225 in addition to the red vision TVMS and management 30?
The manager 30 already has a charger built in so you wouldn't use a bcdc1225d with the manager 30. Redvision you'd usually run with the manager 30 so you don't need the bcdc1225d for either of them
Awesome video, so detailed and well spoken!
I had one of these installed under the bonnet but it’s getting a bit warm for my liking so relocating it to the rear and running two batteries as I’ll have more space.
You said to use Midi fuses instead of blades, and to put them at the “battery end”. Did you mean for both batteries? As in one between cranking batt and charger at cranking batt end, then one between charger and aux batt at aux end?
Thank you 👍 I just wish I had a microphone back when I recorded this video lol. Blade fuses have melted in the past so redarc recommend using the midi fuses. Put one right next to your cranking battery and another one right next to your auxiliary battery. Any wire coming off of your positive battery terminal is unused until it reaches the fuse so you want the wire as short as possible between the fuse and battery terminal to prevent it rubbing on anything & possibly causing a fire
Hey mate, did you wire your solar up like red arcs diagram, or did you just wiring it up using the solar wire?
Yellow solar wire goes directly to the solar Anderson plug
@@Campingdownunder even if the solar is permantly mounted on the roof 24/7? The red src diagram says to add a relay ?
The manual from the bcdc1225d shows to connect the yellow wire directly to the unregulated solar panel & the earth to the body. No need for a relay as there's never any need for it to shut off
@@Campingdownunder yeh I seen there’s another wiring one with the relay ? So the way you have hooked it up when the car starts up does it change over to alternator charging?
The redarc chargers are designed with green power priority charging. Meaning it will pull as much as possible from the solar panels before touching your alternator. It does it all automatically
Great video. You made it look so easy 👍👍👍
Thank you it really is 😀👍
Thank you. You want the blue wire to the wipers?
That's the easiest place to pick up an ignition trigger under the bonnet. Unless you want to go directly to the fuse box and find something that only turns on with the ignition
@@Campingdownunder . . With this 1225D I don't need an isolator correct? Gunna install in truckbed. What gauge wire for approx 11' ? 4gauge? Or 6 gauge?
No you don't need the isolator. It's smart and only takes charge from the main battery when it detects it's high enough volts. Go with 6. Always better to have wire too big than not big enough
So can you run this charger if your cranking battery is lead acid and your auxiliary battery is lithium?
Yes that's completely fine. That's actually how most people do it now
hi again me, i want to ask 1 more question maybe you can help, i brought battery box i put in the cabin , then im planning to connect my REDARC BCDC 1220 to battery box, for auxillary , and also i have solar panel with mppt controller, just incase enginge running is both the BCDC and Solar Panel are charging same together to my battery box what do you think
You should be fine since you only have the 1220 without solar input
many thanks for the info i learned more
You said that "no need to connect the orange wire" if charging AGM battery! How about recharging regular flooded acid battery, is the orange wire connected to anything?
No still no need to connect it
Hey mate, what if using a lithium battery?
What do I do with the orange wire?
Connect the orange and green wires together & it will set the charger to lithium mode 👍
@@Campingdownunder
Do you have to disconnect the battery before connecting the green and blue?
I did it while the battery was connected and it didn't switch to lithium profile.
I changed from agm 2 lithium.
Cheers 4 help 👍
@renegadecampervan5017 yes always have the batteries disconnected from the charger when changing profiles. The charger only searches for a charging profile when it boots up after being powered down
@@Campingdownunder tx for quick reply mate 👍
I have 2 battery's, 170 watt solar panel. I have wired the regulated solar power to a battery switch, then connected both battery's. Now when the truck sits for months at a time, both battery are charged when on both , or rear battery when camping with fridge. i have bought a redark 25 amp dc dc charger? , how best to install?
You can't run a separate solar regulator with the redarc bcdc1225d. The charger already has a built-in solar regulator so you need to bypass the solar regulator and put the positive wire from the solar panel onto the yellow solar input wire of the charger
So do you u plug solar straight into this charger without a separate regulator ?
Yes the charger has a built-in solar regulator. If you ran it through 2 regulators it wouldn't work
I'm doing a video this weekend explaining how I linked my 3 solar panels to the charger 👍
I hear others use minimal solder to stop break of ridged wire?? That right?
Everyone argues over that. The crimp should be filled with solder in my opinion to create the best electrical join. The crimp is solid so the solder can't break inside. There are some things I don't solder because it can make the wire brittle. But even redarc themselves tell you to solder these joints
@@Campingdownunder thanks for reply. I solder mine. I thought I was doing it wrong. I think I'll place another heat shrink that's longer to stabilise the wire movement
Typically you'll still cover the wires in convoluted tubing afterwards & cable tie them every 30cm anyway so you won't get much movement
Hey man congratulations nice video so i can use one othose well i have 200w solar panel. Can use one on those to connect to my alternator or battery can charge my solar's battery? Pls help me..
It will choose to take charge from your solar panels first to charge your auxiliary battery & what ever the solar panel can't provide it will then take charge from the alternator
@@Campingdownunder ok but if i run a wire from alternaor to tha auxiliary battery. And connect a Dc/Dc it's going to work?
If you wire it exactly how I showed you in the video
@@Campingdownunder ok 👍 thank you so much
How do you feel, taking away business from any auto electrician?
When people get it wrong, they come to the blokes who know what they’re doing but whinge cause of what we charge.
Bravo mate.
I try to help people & give them the skills to install accessories themselves without having to pay over $100 per hour. I'm a trained accessory fitter so if I can share my skills and help people out then why not? My installation videos are detailed and accurate but still simple enough for someone with no experience to understand. A battery charger is not something someone needs to go to a professional to install. If they want to do a full custom 12v setup then I'd advise people to use a professional if they aren't confident
@@Campingdownunder and my point is to the people who do not understand or get something wrong from your video, come to a professional to help fix the issue or troubleshoot, they whinge and complain about the price because YOUR videos are encouraging people to do it themselves to save money.
I didn’t know accessory fitting came with a certificate 🤔
Why should someone pay double what a battery charger is worth to have it installed? 12v isn't rocket science. I have to deal with customers who try to install things themselves and end up making even more work for me to fix it. But that's why I create these videos. People are going to try & wing it themselves to save money regardless of watching any videos. I'm trying to help inform people on the correct way to install accessories safely. You think no body tried to do their own 12v knowing nothing about it just to save money before TH-cam was a thing? You can't stop people trying to save money
@@marksmith7744 id be concerned about your 12v skills if your that concerned about losing business from a old tutorial youtube video. If you were such a gun you would be too busy to even worry about youtube lol and make a stupid comment like that. Bravo mate
It was my first ever video aswell 🤣🤣🤣
Can I use a manual circuit breaker
Manual would be fine. Auto is when you have drama's. But midi fuses are what redarc recommends. I always keep a few spare fuses in my car ready to go 👍
No need to use solder with a ratchet crimper as this will create a "cold weld" between the wire and the crimper terminal. Souldered wires are susceptible to breaking in a mobile or marine environment from vibration. FYI.
If you had installed these chargers in the past you'd realise redarc actually recommend crimping & soldering. It was a redarc sponsored video so I had to do everything their way. Auto elecs can't help but leave these comments 🤣
@@Campingdownunder That's too bad. Sounds like Redarc doesn't understand Ratchet crimper design, compression, cold weld. Not a auto elecs here. Aircraft. Vibration, corrosion, and soldering not a good combo. Not your fault, you had to follow there command as you mentioned.
What kind of solder do you recommend?
The thinner the better as its a lot easier to work with
So if you pay for something why would you put thier sticker on your Ute? I get sponsorship and the bigger channels mandated to show sponsors logos, but for us commoners it’s bit of a wank
I only ever have my sponsors on my vehicles. I've been lucky enough to collaborate with over 50 companies over the years
@@Campingdownunder good for you, I mean that. But every red arc box has a sticker and they expect you to put it on your rig. Sorry it’s a gripe I have. If I take the slr torana out for a weekend drive I’m not getting into the malbro race suit and helmet. Yet cyclists wear Lycra for a weekend ride, and guys put stickers on thier utes for gear because they’ve paid 2k for it
@budget-adventure it's just free marketing for them. They just hope if they include stickers people will display them. Most companies do it
Very specific install. Atleast tell people what the wire is even if it’s not for agm battery. I have lipo and since that was skipped this video didn’t help me
The only difference with lithium is you join the green & orange wire together which triggers lithium mode in the charger. It also says that in the instructions that come with the charger
I’m not sure if I’m missing it but are you meant to fuse the solar input before the dcdc charger. On all the wiring diagrams in the manual it doesn’t show a fuse
No there's no need