Finally someone who understands you don't have to apply the solder paste pad by pad. Also, on a sidenote if you're new to this... With this method, beware of little solder balls that sometimes go flying away and may end up shorting another IC, just clean the board afterwards. It's not as prone to happen on reflow ovens than with a hot air gun
Thanks. For my actual boards (this one is a practice board thing) I use a toothbrush and isopropanol alcohol to clean the flux off which should take care of the balls too, but I also inspect the boards with the microscope for said balls. Here is an example of a finished and cleaned board (showing the output filters of a USB DAC sound card): imgur.com/0COBwae
So the excess solder paste gets absorbed into the soldering on legs & pads. I noticed before the IC was put in place, looking at the pre-printed markings, a notch was in the end of the white outline. Does that correspond to the dot on the one end of the IC (for orientation)? Thanks
@@j.lietka9406 Yes, there's a dot and a notch to indicate the orientation, and should correspond with the IC. (some have a dot, some a notch, or both, to determine where's Pin 1).
@@j.lietka9406 As long as there is enough flux to remove the oxides, the solder will want to pool and flow only onto metal. So once it reaches molten temperatures it immediately shifts into as few "drops" as possible flowing onto the metal, pooling on the pad and wicking up the component leg. My other video on removing bridges shows this clearly.
It was the primary reason for the video. I watched Jullian Illet spend hours trying to lay paste on each pad individually, there is no need, as long as you don't use too much, as that causes the bridged pins as you seen.
You set the temperature too low on the soldering station, which is why the solder paste melted for a long time, remember not to overheat the IC Paradoxically, the higher the temperature set on the soldering station, the shorter the IC will be exposed to high temperature
The other side of the story though is that hitting a cold board with high temp air can cause unequal expansion and stress the PCB. You can split the operation into pre-warm and solder or just use slightly cooler air and work closer and closer as the general board area warms up and stops sucking the heat away.
In fact you should follow the heat curve, that heat curve takes like 6 minutes from preheat, heat spike and cooling. thats what a professional oven does.
@@israelsalas4617 No, not really. Most ICs don't really care. If a curve has to be followed to prevent damage, it will be specifically stated in the datasheet. Also, even if the chip is not really sensitive but it's a large BGA package, you just cant blow it with 500°C continuously. But a good rule of thumb is to preheat the surrounding area to 130-150° for 20-30 seconds (at that temperature, the flux will be unaffected), ramping it up to around 450-470°. Solder takes heat more quickly than the chip will do. Being quick ensures it will not be damaged. Just don't do that from room temperature. The distance of the nozzle to the part also dramatically changes the heat you're putting into it. At 5cm at 400°, the IC will see around 230°. Not even close to the 400° coming out of the gun.
This may be ideal for a DS cartridge PCB. Something that neatly set on the legs of the chip is something I want done. Already have a hot air station, so I'll pick this up as well.
The [green] "varnish" or "lacquer" on the board is referred to as [a] "solder mask" (also "solder stop", "solder resist", etc.) ...it is a special polymer which is specifically designed to eschew solder (¿solderphobic?) ...When the solder gets hot enough to liquify, it "sticks to" [forms an alloy with] the pcb track and the chip leg - but CANNOT bond to the special "solder resistant" polymer ...Because we are now dealing with a liquid, the physics of "surface tension" kicks in, and the solder 'pools' to the points where it is (now) "stuck" to the metal parts :) ...That said, there is still very much a skill to getting it right.
I've always tinned the pads on the board then put flux paste on, then seat the chip and hot air it while holding it in place with tweezers. Solder paste looks like cheating haha, good job tho looks perfect
In the industrial process they use also a red glue that is attaching the component to the pcb and stencil printing.Placing solder paste manually you cant avoid the solder bridges and need another pass with soldering iron to remove them.
You can get them to work without bridges. Actually the bridge in this case was caused by just a little bit too much solder in that location to actually break into two blobs on two pins and stayed as one blob bridging the two pins. If you use a little less paste than I did, or even just apply it with a brush you won't get bridges. You can actually buy the stencil with your PCBs from the likes of PCBWay, it's like an extra $10. Apply the paste using a scraper or credit card and air solder it. You won't get bridges either.
Were you referring to the process they call "staking"? I wonder why that is, because where i work, we basically never use it. Only for re-routing wires
Very good video! Steady hands as well, you're like a human placement machine :) I manufacture various types of solders including pastes and I am wondering if it is worth setting up a blog to help everyone with choosing the correct type of products. I would like to but don't know if it will get the interest!
It's better if you post videos + reference to your blog post as well. The plus: you can monetize both. I am searching for resoldering old motherboard with corroded pin right now tough...
You could have used the iron in the first place for that bridge instead of risking to cook/burn the chip. But good instructional video however. Good job.
Yeah. I was experimenting. I think this was my second attempt at air soldering an IC. I wanted to see if I could pull the bridge out with just heat. Seems it not practical, the iron is much faster.
I have never done soldering of any kind but am thinking of doing some for a transmitter kit. You make it look so easy. Would this be better for me as a novice or would you recommend starting out with the iron?
Idk but shouldn't be too much more of a challenge doing some SMD. As long as you are willing to pay for the proper equipment. Stereo microscope, tweezers that are high quality an hot air station.
Maybe you are, but an air bath preheater underneath the pcb elevating temperatures to 150C helps hot air pens reflow easily, avoid bridging issues and overheating components.
Estanho líquido ajuda muito mesmo!!! Pra quem não tem estação de ar quente, pode usar lâmpada de farol H4. No vídeo seria bom colocar o tempo real, a temperatura e a força do ar!!! Mostrando até o modelo da máquina de ar quente!!! LIKE pro vídeo...
Flux 'wets' the solder, allowing surface tension to break the bridge. Sometimes it works with just 'add some flux and heat a bit', sometimes it requires a soldering iron tip (and flux in this case would make it much easier for the solder to move to the tip).
@@fhunter1test Yep. Flux once hot enough becomes a very nasty powerful anti-oxidant. It cleans the oxide layer off the solder which allows the solder to flow, retains it's surface tension like a "blob" or "drop" so you can pull it around. As long as everything is clean (well fluxed) it should always flow onto metal and will try and flow into larger and larger blobs, exacltly what you want. Dirty tips, dried up solder cores or no flux at all makes a mess as the solder sticks to everything, spreads out in spatters and just makes a mess.
Temp was 300 or 350*C. The air out of the gun probably halves every inch you get from the nozzle. You can point it at your hand from 5 inches away and not get burnt. So to do the warming profile, you have to start far away, covering the whole board and slowly, progressively move tighter and tighter into the areas to be soldered. Getting the tip closer and closer so you are trying to evenly warm things, getting progressively hotter and more focused until it all starts to flow. Then you have to keep it hot until it all flows properly. Ideally (not in this video), you want the whole chip, all legs, molten at the same time, so the chips will recenter itself on the pads due to the solder surface tension. At the same time you don't want to spent too long at it. Most ICs can hand 180-200*C for up to 5 minutes, higher temps for less time. What breaks ICs when air soldering is heating them up too fast, causes uneven expansion and can crack the dies.
Also worth noting. Prewarming, or starting slowly, also helps drive out water. If you suspect any of your components may have traces of water, the prewarming or alcohol washing helps drive it off before it becomes a problem. Trapped water under soldering heat can cause small steam explosions which can break components.
What do you have your blower settings at, on like a 0-10 scale? I had mine at 25% and them chips were slippin around like penguins that got slathered up with KY jelly. We have an actual oven at work but I try and do hand stuff at home.
WOnderful! What is the temperature setting on the hot air tool? I tried to solder a 0201 resistor on a board with the tool at 350C or 400C and all I got was a little bit of smoke. I was not using solder paste however. I was suing 0.3Ag0.7Cu solder that I had pre-tinned the pads with.
Make sure and warm the surrounding board up gently. Otherwise it will just suck the heat away. Solder paste is just balls of solder suspended in flux, but the flux is really important.
Thank you Paul! I finally got solder paste in the mail from Amazon so I am going to try this out very soon! I got some 247-LOWTEMP-15 paste that says Expiry 4/8/21 so it seems to be pretty fresh. It apparently has a MP of 137 Celsius. Maybe I'll try 130C to warm up the board and then crank it up to 250C and see what happens.
Not an expert, however I believe it's not recommended. 18650s have pretty low temperature tolerances. Heating the end up hot enough to flow solder onto, even with an iron, let along hot air, would put the core of the cell well outside it's temperature limits. Doing so with a fully charged cell could have catastrophic results. To summarise. Not recommended, seek professional advice.
I cheat. I use two hands. One to hold the tool and the other to hold that hand from shaking. It works surprisingly well, using two hands to control one very, very finely. The tweezers in these shots is moving mili-meters. The nozzle of the heat gun is moving centimetres.
Nice, never used paste before. Was planning on using 183c solder wire with hot air to add a m.2 connecter to my laptop and replace a broken connector in my phone. The m.2 connecter has a max temp of 245c so I want to use as low of a temp solder as possible and might use a 140c paste with air. Paste should still melt at rated temp after it cooled as long as you used flux, right?
I think you will be fine. Just be aware that other components around the m.2 socket may also melt and reflow. For the socket it's self alignment will be 100% key. If you have just enough solder and you can get it to flow at the same time across all pins it should self align. Even slightly too much solder and it could bridge. You'll need a scope to see it. I would direct you towards some of Louis Rossmans' repair videos for a more qualified source on finer details of SMD rework.
@@themadatheist1976 Checking the pins with a meter will require the pinout of the socket. For example many of the pins will be "ground", so with a meter they will appear shorted, but that's normal.
This is really an improper way to do this, yes it technically works but so would a blow torch or throwing it on a frying pan. Solder paste is designed to be reflowed according to a specific temperature profile, thats why it comes with a little card that shows you what temperatures it needs to be brought to, how long it should be soaked at those times, and how quickly it needs to be cooled. A stencil is $7 and you can buy a decent enough reflow over for $250. Doing it like this youre just over heating everything, putting undue stress on the solder joints, etc
Maybe, but it works. If you do one single board every few months, it's just not feasible to buy and store a reflow oven. Besides, what do you do if you are only soldering part of a board for repair? This is why the heat guns are often referred to a a solder re-work station. So professional board manufacturers will indeed use stenils, reflow ovens and pick and place machines. It doesn't mean you "need" to to get stuff that works. If I was making a pace maker or a heart monitor for a hospital I expect I wouldn't do it this way, but if I've only fried one chip as it just wouldn't flow due to bad technique and you what? It cost me 39 pence.
@@MichiganSynthWorks www.bankrate.com/pdfs/pr/20170112-January-Money-Pulse.pdf there's a lot of people that don't have the money for that but for you maybe that's great.
what re work station are you using. I have a dual Weller station but id love a Hakko. my 125w iron is a hakko since we switched when Weller stopped putting the gyro sensor in the iron and moved the manufacturing of the irons to china and now they only last a few months :(
You don't want to be too fast or you risk uneven heating. But normally you would be doing many components on a board at once, so you preheat the area, then start to focus and as you move across the board it gets easier and easier for things to flow.
@@1over137 hey i bought mechanic xg z40 paste but its very very solid and very hard to get out of tube... definitely not liquid... how is yours? how do you get it out of the tube (i use a plunger but its still very hard) ? thanks in advance and thanks again :)
@@HalfLife2Beta First off, keep it in the fridge, but leave it out overnight before use. I always forgot so I would warm it for a few hours in water at 30*C. I used a wide needle, applied pressure, quite a bit, then waited. You only need a very slow "ooze". Be careful though it continues to flow for a few seconds after you release the pressure and it can occasionally start going run away and flowing much faster. The amounts you need are tiny, mostly it's just contact the pad and pull away is enough to get a single "drop" on the pad.
@@1over137 after putting the needle out, the solder paste is impossible to get it out (even with incredible pressure) but if I remove the needle the paste goes without effort. I think I need to buy a soldering dispensing gun...
I'm having trouble with the solder paste, it's very strange. I'm trying to solder a 0603 smd resistor, I put small amount of solder paste and align the resistor on top. Then I start heating it with the heat gun. Minutes later the solder paste doesn't melt, it just dries out. The label says it should melt at 183C, I started 190, and gone up to 320C and the result is the same. Strange part is same solder paste on a different PCB works completely fine. I have absolutely no idea why it behaves differently in different PCBs.
The PCB may be "wicking" the heat away too fast. If I try and solder on the metal microscope base the same happens and the metal base wicks away the heat too fast. If it's just an awkward component or two I'd just fix em up with the iron. Other than that, make sure and preheat the board for a few minutes first. The whole circuit board should be too hot to touch before you start.
@@1over137 hi, this is very helpful, thank you! I didn't know I had to preheat the boardI just start cold. Unfortunately it's 5 tiny tiny parts in a really awkward location and I don't have the skills for doing it with iron. I'll try again today, I hope it works.
@@RootiferasRetroGameplay When designing a PCB there are things to pay note to. Copper transfers heat really well. So tracks do. When you have a large area of copper like a ground plane, the mass of copper can make it hard to flow as it wicks the heat away. Most PCB tools have a feature called "Thermal reliefs" which place a sparse area around the pad with 2 or 3 smaller tracks connecting it to the plain. This is to help soldering on ground plains. If you deliberately put "thermal vias" to transfer heat away from ICs in normal use, these will need special care when soldering as they have a high copper mass.
@@1over137 this is all new to me, I didn't know that. Thank you! I'm trying to repair an old VGA card, it has 6 broken smd resistors. my test solder pcb is significantly smaller than the vga card and it's just a "solder practice" pcb, I think it doesn't have any thermal relief or anything so the solder just melts. I'll give it another try today. Thanks for your help!
No. You want the chip to get hot. If you try and keep it cool it may suffer uneven expansion and crack the internal die. They are rated for 180+*C for up to a minute. Check the datasheets for heat profiles.
I think it would be trickier to do. When you do this at a larger scale, like a full board, you can buy a "solder mask stencil" with it that allows you to just paste over the mask and only the right areas get the paste. So it's much more economical that way.
@@kalexander841 I recommend storing it in the fridge and leaving it out for 12 hours before use. If you forget, like I did, use a cup of warm 30*C water for an hour to warm it. The warmer it is the easier it is to squeeze down the needle (which you buy separately)
It is no-clean flux. However, all that means is the flux residue is not corrosive or conductive. It's still ugly and every bit of dirt sticks to it. A bath with Isopropanol alcohol and a toothbrush helps. I even use an electric toothbrush... carefully and delicately. Then rinse with lots of water and air dry quickly with a hair dryer or your hot airgun if you have to. Be warned... Isopropanol alcohol vapours, while evaporating, WILL, get you high. Not recommended, so do it in an open space.
Very good, but it won't teach you air soldering will it. I'll have you a race. We'll take a board with 60 SMD components on it. You have your iron, I'll have my paste and air gun.
No paste. Solder paste only works in well calibrated reflow machines. What he is showing will leave you with a huge mess. Just use thin solder and plenty of flux and you will be OK.
Contray to a lot of comments, if you set the temp high and hit the chip hard and fast you can crack the interior. You have to build it up slowly when doing this or you will cause damage. The air starts off quite far away blowing in the general area to warm the chip and the board first, before closing in to flow. The temp was 300 or 330 I can't remember. Most of the time was wasted with the experiment to see if I could get the bridge to flow out with just hot air. You can't. I would not recommend attmepting to do this and just use the iron to reflow the bridge.
If you watch to the end. I fix that. First trying to see if you can do it with just air and flux, finding out it doesn't work and using more flux and the iron to remove the bridge.
Actually it doesn't. The chip is perfectly capable of taking solder melt/reflow temperatures for quite a while as it would in an oven. But what will kill it is taking it up to that temp quickly, which causes thermal shock and can damage the chip. So you move the hot air around and around so it heat evenly, the board and copper tracks taking the heat away, until the solder looks like it's ready and then focus the heat to reflow it. The chip is only exposed to really high temps while the solder if reflowing. An oven is more precise, but chips are designed to handle soldering and reflow temps. An iron is not always less sensitive to the chip either! It has to used well as it too can thermal shock the chip, heating a cold chip on one pin only to 300*C can crack it.
![[MV] A leap of faith...ความเชื่อใจครั้งสุดท้าย (From "Petrichor the series")](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/U1piZH2CNXA/mqdefault.jpg)
Finally someone who understands you don't have to apply the solder paste pad by pad. Also, on a sidenote if you're new to this... With this method, beware of little solder balls that sometimes go flying away and may end up shorting another IC, just clean the board afterwards. It's not as prone to happen on reflow ovens than with a hot air gun
Thanks. For my actual boards (this one is a practice board thing) I use a toothbrush and isopropanol alcohol to clean the flux off which should take care of the balls too, but I also inspect the boards with the microscope for said balls. Here is an example of a finished and cleaned board (showing the output filters of a USB DAC sound card):
imgur.com/0COBwae
So the excess solder paste gets absorbed into the soldering on legs & pads. I noticed before the IC was put in place, looking at the pre-printed markings, a notch was in the end of the white outline. Does that correspond to the dot on the one end of the IC (for orientation)? Thanks
@@j.lietka9406 Yes, there's a dot and a notch to indicate the orientation, and should correspond with the IC. (some have a dot, some a notch, or both, to determine where's Pin 1).
@@hussssshie that's right! Thanks 🤓
@@j.lietka9406 As long as there is enough flux to remove the oxides, the solder will want to pool and flow only onto metal. So once it reaches molten temperatures it immediately shifts into as few "drops" as possible flowing onto the metal, pooling on the pad and wicking up the component leg. My other video on removing bridges shows this clearly.
Soldering tiny SMD chips with solder paste and hot air is great, thanks for sharing high quality repair knowledge with everyone. Upvote for you!
Never used the paste before. At first I was thinking oh no , this is going to be a mess , then everything just flows cleanly into place. Nice job
It was the primary reason for the video. I watched Jullian Illet spend hours trying to lay paste on each pad individually, there is no need, as long as you don't use too much, as that causes the bridged pins as you seen.
The beauty of Flux!
What kind of paste?
the past used is a famose brand
in the name of:
mechanic
easy used and use and enjoy it.
@@sarockpashotan thanks!! Good to know!!!
The last 6 seconds were crucial. That is professional work right here, was afraid the video left me disappointed.
Fixing the bridge between the bottom left pins using soldering iron is great. Thanks for this helpful video.
This looks so satisfying. I never soldered with solder paste before. I think i'm gonna try it when i get a heat gun.
With what have you soldered before 🤔
@@spacenodus7959solder wire
It is beautiful like a ballet, but then one ballerina fell at the end. Flux & iron in for the save. I love watching paste.
You set the temperature too low on the soldering station, which is why the solder paste melted for a long time, remember not to overheat the IC
Paradoxically, the higher the temperature set on the soldering station, the shorter the IC will be exposed to high temperature
The other side of the story though is that hitting a cold board with high temp air can cause unequal expansion and stress the PCB. You can split the operation into pre-warm and solder or just use slightly cooler air and work closer and closer as the general board area warms up and stops sucking the heat away.
What temperature would you reccomend as rule of thumb to start with?
In fact you should follow the heat curve, that heat curve takes like 6 minutes from preheat, heat spike and cooling. thats what a professional oven does.
@@harviecz check the specs of the solder paste and the chip
@@israelsalas4617 No, not really. Most ICs don't really care. If a curve has to be followed to prevent damage, it will be specifically stated in the datasheet.
Also, even if the chip is not really sensitive but it's a large BGA package, you just cant blow it with 500°C continuously.
But a good rule of thumb is to preheat the surrounding area to 130-150° for 20-30 seconds (at that temperature, the flux will be unaffected), ramping it up to around 450-470°. Solder takes heat more quickly than the chip will do. Being quick ensures it will not be damaged. Just don't do that from room temperature.
The distance of the nozzle to the part also dramatically changes the heat you're putting into it. At 5cm at 400°, the IC will see around 230°. Not even close to the 400° coming out of the gun.
My
Dear Brother
ur soldering is very very good
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This may be ideal for a DS cartridge PCB. Something that neatly set on the legs of the chip is something I want done. Already have a hot air station, so I'll pick this up as well.
its amazing how these paste "choose" to connect the intended circuitry, but not shorting to the neighboring connections
Solder when molten (and clean) likes to stick to other metals only. So it bunches up in blobs on the metal.
"Some other metals." Not all. Some are really hard to solder.
The [green] "varnish" or "lacquer" on the board is referred to as [a] "solder mask" (also "solder stop", "solder resist", etc.) ...it is a special polymer which is specifically designed to eschew solder (¿solderphobic?) ...When the solder gets hot enough to liquify, it "sticks to" [forms an alloy with] the pcb track and the chip leg - but CANNOT bond to the special "solder resistant" polymer ...Because we are now dealing with a liquid, the physics of "surface tension" kicks in, and the solder 'pools' to the points where it is (now) "stuck" to the metal parts :) ...That said, there is still very much a skill to getting it right.
that last part should be played in slo motion with the matrix sound effect
Off i go to re-watch the whole Matrix Trilogy thanks to this comment 😂
Which paste you used in this video? Which soldering station, airflow strength and temperature?
A most exellent demo sir.this will help me out loads.thankyou most kindly
Dude.
I've always tinned the pads on the board then put flux paste on, then seat the chip and hot air it while holding it in place with tweezers.
Solder paste looks like cheating haha, good job tho looks perfect
Great beautiful work !! ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
In the industrial process they use also a red glue that is attaching the component to the pcb and stencil printing.Placing solder paste manually you cant avoid the solder bridges and need another pass with soldering iron to remove them.
You can get them to work without bridges. Actually the bridge in this case was caused by just a little bit too much solder in that location to actually break into two blobs on two pins and stayed as one blob bridging the two pins. If you use a little less paste than I did, or even just apply it with a brush you won't get bridges. You can actually buy the stencil with your PCBs from the likes of PCBWay, it's like an extra $10. Apply the paste using a scraper or credit card and air solder it. You won't get bridges either.
Were you referring to the process they call "staking"? I wonder why that is, because where i work, we basically never use it. Only for re-routing wires
Love that there's an issue with two of the pads, very helpful
I do it with regular solder and don't have to worry about out of date paste.
Ролик нужно назвать: " Так никогда не делайте". Столько времени греть плату, микросхему... Для чего? Паяльником 10 секунд.
Very good video! Steady hands as well, you're like a human placement machine :) I manufacture various types of solders including pastes and I am wondering if it is worth setting up a blog to help everyone with choosing the correct type of products. I would like to but don't know if it will get the interest!
It's better if you post videos + reference to your blog post as well. The plus: you can monetize both. I am searching for resoldering old motherboard with corroded pin right now tough...
incredible idea. go ahead boss
Are you blind? This was a really poor demonstration of using paste and hot air.
what temperature hot air gun ?
You could have used the iron in the first place for that bridge instead of risking to cook/burn the chip. But good instructional video however. Good job.
Yeah. I was experimenting. I think this was my second attempt at air soldering an IC. I wanted to see if I could pull the bridge out with just heat. Seems it not practical, the iron is much faster.
I have never done soldering of any kind but am thinking of doing some for a transmitter kit. You make it look so easy. Would this be better for me as a novice or would you recommend starting out with the iron?
Idk but shouldn't be too much more of a challenge doing some SMD. As long as you are willing to pay for the proper equipment. Stereo microscope, tweezers that are high quality an hot air station.
Maybe you are, but an air bath preheater underneath the pcb elevating temperatures to 150C helps hot air pens reflow easily, avoid bridging issues and overheating components.
Estanho líquido ajuda muito mesmo!!! Pra quem não tem estação de ar quente, pode usar lâmpada de farol H4. No vídeo seria bom colocar o tempo real, a temperatura e a força do ar!!! Mostrando até o modelo da máquina de ar quente!!! LIKE pro vídeo...
Great job! What temperatures did you set for pre-warm and solder? And what is the flux do in clearing the "bridge"?
Flux 'wets' the solder, allowing surface tension to break the bridge. Sometimes it works with just 'add some flux and heat a bit', sometimes it requires a soldering iron tip (and flux in this case would make it much easier for the solder to move to the tip).
@@fhunter1test Yep. Flux once hot enough becomes a very nasty powerful anti-oxidant. It cleans the oxide layer off the solder which allows the solder to flow, retains it's surface tension like a "blob" or "drop" so you can pull it around. As long as everything is clean (well fluxed) it should always flow onto metal and will try and flow into larger and larger blobs, exacltly what you want. Dirty tips, dried up solder cores or no flux at all makes a mess as the solder sticks to everything, spreads out in spatters and just makes a mess.
Temp was 300 or 350*C. The air out of the gun probably halves every inch you get from the nozzle. You can point it at your hand from 5 inches away and not get burnt. So to do the warming profile, you have to start far away, covering the whole board and slowly, progressively move tighter and tighter into the areas to be soldered. Getting the tip closer and closer so you are trying to evenly warm things, getting progressively hotter and more focused until it all starts to flow. Then you have to keep it hot until it all flows properly. Ideally (not in this video), you want the whole chip, all legs, molten at the same time, so the chips will recenter itself on the pads due to the solder surface tension.
At the same time you don't want to spent too long at it. Most ICs can hand 180-200*C for up to 5 minutes, higher temps for less time. What breaks ICs when air soldering is heating them up too fast, causes uneven expansion and can crack the dies.
Also worth noting. Prewarming, or starting slowly, also helps drive out water. If you suspect any of your components may have traces of water, the prewarming or alcohol washing helps drive it off before it becomes a problem. Trapped water under soldering heat can cause small steam explosions which can break components.
This is what I was searching for. Very helpful. 850k views!!! Damn!!! How did that happen? :) :)
Total Fluke. No idea.
@@1over137 haha! Well, I hope you got some cheddar for it. :)
This way you did,the element burned 100 percent!!!
Yepp
Much too long heating the areas, it will stress the component and reduce it´s Lifetime.
@@metaluna72 for sure..for example ,if that was a rf ic,100 percent it died
I enjoyed well ❤️
What do you have your blower settings at, on like a 0-10 scale? I had mine at 25% and them chips were slippin around like penguins that got slathered up with KY jelly. We have an actual oven at work but I try and do hand stuff at home.
What alloy did you use with the paste?
what temperature?
about 330c
I wonder if low melt solder and hot air will do for smd's with tiny pins like hair?
Actually this package can be soldered with the iron preatty easily.
.... I don't see where they said it couldn't ... it's just a demonstration.
Wow
I never want to solder with iron and spool ever again
excellent job with the 2 pins that were bridged.
You'll like this :)
th-cam.com/video/_AvqrFgFiYg/w-d-xo.html
That chip died in worst paint at the end. Beside that very good instruction video!
What temperature is the heat gun at?
Looks like magic
WOnderful! What is the temperature setting on the hot air tool? I tried to solder a 0201 resistor on a board with the tool at 350C or 400C and all I got was a little bit of smoke. I was not using solder paste however. I was suing 0.3Ag0.7Cu solder that I had pre-tinned the pads with.
Make sure and warm the surrounding board up gently. Otherwise it will just suck the heat away. Solder paste is just balls of solder suspended in flux, but the flux is really important.
Thank you Paul! I finally got solder paste in the mail from Amazon so I am going to try this out very soon! I got some 247-LOWTEMP-15 paste that says Expiry 4/8/21 so it seems to be pretty fresh. It apparently has a MP of 137 Celsius.
Maybe I'll try 130C to warm up the board and then crank it up to 250C and see what happens.
APTLY excellent job Sir.Thanks v much.
Can I use this for soldering wires or plates onto 18650 battery cells?
Not an expert, however I believe it's not recommended. 18650s have pretty low temperature tolerances. Heating the end up hot enough to flow solder onto, even with an iron, let along hot air, would put the core of the cell well outside it's temperature limits. Doing so with a fully charged cell could have catastrophic results.
To summarise. Not recommended, seek professional advice.
Great video. Please I'm a beginner and I would like to know the names of the tools used in this video. Thanks
what temp and airflow was the final result?
Air flow and temperature please? Thanks in advance
I thought my little hand shake while soldering is some fault in me
I cheat. I use two hands. One to hold the tool and the other to hold that hand from shaking. It works surprisingly well, using two hands to control one very, very finely. The tweezers in these shots is moving mili-meters. The nozzle of the heat gun is moving centimetres.
Will using the torch feature of my butane soldering iron be too hot for this application?
Nice, never used paste before. Was planning on using 183c solder wire with hot air to add a m.2 connecter to my laptop and replace a broken connector in my phone. The m.2 connecter has a max temp of 245c so I want to use as low of a temp solder as possible and might use a 140c paste with air.
Paste should still melt at rated temp after it cooled as long as you used flux, right?
I think you will be fine. Just be aware that other components around the m.2 socket may also melt and reflow.
For the socket it's self alignment will be 100% key. If you have just enough solder and you can get it to flow at the same time across all pins it should self align. Even slightly too much solder and it could bridge. You'll need a scope to see it.
I would direct you towards some of Louis Rossmans' repair videos for a more qualified source on finer details of SMD rework.
@@1over137 yes, I was planning to use some kapton tape as shields and will check with a meter.
@@themadatheist1976 Checking the pins with a meter will require the pinout of the socket.
For example many of the pins will be "ground", so with a meter they will appear shorted, but that's normal.
This is really an improper way to do this, yes it technically works but so would a blow torch or throwing it on a frying pan. Solder paste is designed to be reflowed according to a specific temperature profile, thats why it comes with a little card that shows you what temperatures it needs to be brought to, how long it should be soaked at those times, and how quickly it needs to be cooled. A stencil is $7 and you can buy a decent enough reflow over for $250. Doing it like this youre just over heating everything, putting undue stress on the solder joints, etc
Maybe, but it works. If you do one single board every few months, it's just not feasible to buy and store a reflow oven. Besides, what do you do if you are only soldering part of a board for repair? This is why the heat guns are often referred to a a solder re-work station.
So professional board manufacturers will indeed use stenils, reflow ovens and pick and place machines. It doesn't mean you "need" to to get stuff that works. If I was making a pace maker or a heart monitor for a hospital I expect I wouldn't do it this way, but if I've only fried one chip as it just wouldn't flow due to bad technique and you what? It cost me 39 pence.
yeah real professionals just buy a fab and make a new chip instead, amirite? pfft, amateur!
@@masskiller9206 Uh, no. A $6 stencil and a $200 reflow oven will do just fine
@@MichiganSynthWorks www.bankrate.com/pdfs/pr/20170112-January-Money-Pulse.pdf there's a lot of people that don't have the money for that but for you maybe that's great.
You might want to argue with the experts on this. Try Dave, for example:
th-cam.com/video/M_rO6oPVsws/w-d-xo.html
Clean job
Good work..all the best
what re work station are you using. I have a dual Weller station but id love a Hakko. my 125w iron is a hakko since we switched when Weller stopped putting the gyro sensor in the iron and moved the manufacturing of the irons to china and now they only last a few months :(
Left an older Weller 35 watt iron ON for 3 months (snowbird winter holiday). Was still on upon arriving home!
It's good, but it seems quite slow you can focus the heat gun on multiple points at once.
You don't want to be too fast or you risk uneven heating. But normally you would be doing many components on a board at once, so you preheat the area, then start to focus and as you move across the board it gets easier and easier for things to flow.
Result looks so perfect
This is far from perfect!!!
IC not centered and the pads not fully covered with solder. Exposed copper tarnishes. Job took far too long. Not perfect.
Solder paste reminds me of nanotechnology.
where I can buy?
which hot air station? which temperature? which paste?
Cheap 858D clone. MECHANIC XG-Z40 Liquid Solder Soldering Paste. Can't remember the temp, probably 300. Andonstar ADSM201 HDMI 1080 Digital Microscope
@@1over137 hey i bought mechanic xg z40 paste but its very very solid and very hard to get out of tube... definitely not liquid... how is yours? how do you get it out of the tube (i use a plunger but its still very hard) ? thanks in advance and thanks again :)
@@HalfLife2Beta First off, keep it in the fridge, but leave it out overnight before use. I always forgot so I would warm it for a few hours in water at 30*C. I used a wide needle, applied pressure, quite a bit, then waited. You only need a very slow "ooze". Be careful though it continues to flow for a few seconds after you release the pressure and it can occasionally start going run away and flowing much faster. The amounts you need are tiny, mostly it's just contact the pad and pull away is enough to get a single "drop" on the pad.
@@1over137 after putting the needle out, the solder paste is impossible to get it out (even with incredible pressure) but if I remove the needle the paste goes without effort. I think I need to buy a soldering dispensing gun...
@@HalfLife2Beta Bigger needle.
What type of solder is this?
I'm having trouble with the solder paste, it's very strange. I'm trying to solder a 0603 smd resistor, I put small amount of solder paste and align the resistor on top. Then I start heating it with the heat gun. Minutes later the solder paste doesn't melt, it just dries out. The label says it should melt at 183C, I started 190, and gone up to 320C and the result is the same.
Strange part is same solder paste on a different PCB works completely fine. I have absolutely no idea why it behaves differently in different PCBs.
The PCB may be "wicking" the heat away too fast. If I try and solder on the metal microscope base the same happens and the metal base wicks away the heat too fast.
If it's just an awkward component or two I'd just fix em up with the iron.
Other than that, make sure and preheat the board for a few minutes first. The whole circuit board should be too hot to touch before you start.
@@1over137 hi, this is very helpful, thank you! I didn't know I had to preheat the boardI just start cold. Unfortunately it's 5 tiny tiny parts in a really awkward location and I don't have the skills for doing it with iron. I'll try again today, I hope it works.
@@RootiferasRetroGameplay When designing a PCB there are things to pay note to. Copper transfers heat really well. So tracks do. When you have a large area of copper like a ground plane, the mass of copper can make it hard to flow as it wicks the heat away.
Most PCB tools have a feature called "Thermal reliefs" which place a sparse area around the pad with 2 or 3 smaller tracks connecting it to the plain.
This is to help soldering on ground plains.
If you deliberately put "thermal vias" to transfer heat away from ICs in normal use, these will need special care when soldering as they have a high copper mass.
@@1over137 this is all new to me, I didn't know that. Thank you! I'm trying to repair an old VGA card, it has 6 broken smd resistors. my test solder pcb is significantly smaller than the vga card and it's just a "solder practice" pcb, I think it doesn't have any thermal relief or anything so the solder just melts. I'll give it another try today. Thanks for your help!
Where can I get that paste that you are using
what must be the temperature setting on the hot air machine ?
Would covering the chip with alu foil be good when boring on the soldering tips of the chip?
No. You want the chip to get hot. If you try and keep it cool it may suffer uneven expansion and crack the internal die.
They are rated for 180+*C for up to a minute.
Check the datasheets for heat profiles.
What microscope do You use to this videos?
Whicj glue using pls give me discription link
А сразу паяльником заслужить и припаять не проще было?
Hello! What brand of solder paste do you use?
Is there flux in the paste or something?
what type of flux is this? may a kind person post a link?
I would be to anxious to do both sides of the pads back to back in fear of the part getting damaged and after a few cycles it failing :(
I've hardly ever seen a video with as many smartass comments.
Great video by the way 👍
My shaky hands wouldn't be able to do this.
I often use one hand to hold the tool and another to hold that hand stable. :D
Is it advantages and economical to apply paste to the pins of the component
I think it would be trickier to do. When you do this at a larger scale, like a full board, you can buy a "solder mask stencil" with it that allows you to just paste over the mask and only the right areas get the paste. So it's much more economical that way.
Buen video dónde sé consigue la soldadura
good video I liked it what's the brand of solder paste please Paul?
Cheap chinese stuff on ebay. "Mechanic" was the brand.
Thanks for the reply mate got some on order Xg40.
@@kalexander841 I recommend storing it in the fridge and leaving it out for 12 hours before use. If you forget, like I did, use a cup of warm 30*C water for an hour to warm it. The warmer it is the easier it is to squeeze down the needle (which you buy separately)
Paul Campbell appreciate the tip 👍
Sir Why Paste....?
I was learning how to use paste. Can't learn how to use paste without using paste!
Hi! What's the name of the pasta?
5 минут паять корпус SO-16? Да вы что? Паяльником паяется максимум 30 сек
Потрясающе. Ну так запили свой туториал. Почему-то по запросу "SMD soldering" я попал на этого неудачника, а не на тебя, полубога пайки.
Is the marker no-clean flux? Or something else like R or RMA ?
It is no-clean flux. However, all that means is the flux residue is not corrosive or conductive. It's still ugly and every bit of dirt sticks to it. A bath with Isopropanol alcohol and a toothbrush helps. I even use an electric toothbrush... carefully and delicately. Then rinse with lots of water and air dry quickly with a hair dryer or your hot airgun if you have to. Be warned... Isopropanol alcohol vapours, while evaporating, WILL, get you high. Not recommended, so do it in an open space.
Great work. Excellent 👏.
Hi can you tell me what it was you did with the wet brush towards the end? was it coated with something?.
Solder flux
Yep, Flux is critical to this technique and is very often the defacto "get out of trouble" when soldering anything.
Flux? No?
😀. Groovy.. Modern way to do it...😁
What is name that flux
How about soldering a QFN48 SMD chip ?
th-cam.com/video/XeF4GWYn3Zo/w-d-xo.html
Mầy khò xong rồi thì con IC đó cũng khét trong ruột luôn còn gì !!!
what is that last thing u applied with a brush?
Flux
So there's a hot air and a sucker?
No sucker. The tools are, Hot Air Gun, Tweezers, and flux marker pen.
Well done
link amazon please
Tiny you said?
Paste using name? Or Company
Thank you for the information.
Every time I use a hot air gun, I run into the problem where the part starts sliding off of the pad because of the air. How do you avoid that?
Reduce the air flow ....hold the part down by applying some pressure to it.
@@Gw0wvl I tried holding with tweezers. The solder paste did not melt fast enough
First you can align properly and keep solder dots on the 4 corners with pressing SMD chip towards the PCB
What microscope/camera are you using for this?
It's an Andonstar Can't remember the model, but relatively cheap on Ali express or ebay. About $150
A "tiny" SMD chip? LOL! I could have soldered that big honker with a Weller 8200.
Very good, but it won't teach you air soldering will it. I'll have you a race. We'll take a board with 60 SMD components on it. You have your iron, I'll have my paste and air gun.
Paste name please
No paste. Solder paste only works in well calibrated reflow machines. What he is showing will leave you with a huge mess. Just use thin solder and plenty of flux and you will be OK.
sry but u took 5min to solder 1 ic, what is ur temperature setting.
Contray to a lot of comments, if you set the temp high and hit the chip hard and fast you can crack the interior. You have to build it up slowly when doing this or you will cause damage. The air starts off quite far away blowing in the general area to warm the chip and the board first, before closing in to flow.
The temp was 300 or 330 I can't remember.
Most of the time was wasted with the experiment to see if I could get the bridge to flow out with just hot air. You can't. I would not recommend attmepting to do this and just use the iron to reflow the bridge.
What's the microscope used to record this please?
Andon star usb
Is it just or others are ignoring the fact that there a short on the first two pins
If you watch to the end. I fix that. First trying to see if you can do it with just air and flux, finding out it doesn't work and using more flux and the iron to remove the bridge.
that much time and heat will distroy the IC......better soldering iron.
Actually it doesn't. The chip is perfectly capable of taking solder melt/reflow temperatures for quite a while as it would in an oven. But what will kill it is taking it up to that temp quickly, which causes thermal shock and can damage the chip. So you move the hot air around and around so it heat evenly, the board and copper tracks taking the heat away, until the solder looks like it's ready and then focus the heat to reflow it. The chip is only exposed to really high temps while the solder if reflowing. An oven is more precise, but chips are designed to handle soldering and reflow temps.
An iron is not always less sensitive to the chip either! It has to used well as it too can thermal shock the chip, heating a cold chip on one pin only to 300*C can crack it.