How to do SMD Reflow Soldering properly! || Hot Air VS Sand VS Reflow Oven
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In this video we will find out how to do reflow soldering. We need to use this technique when we are dealing with supery tiny ICs which is the case for my new project. So I will be trying out 3 different reflow soldering methods: hot air, sand and a reflow oven. At the end we will find out which method worked out and I will tell you which one was my favourite. Let's get started!
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What a coincidence! ElectroBOOM uploaded a video today too and it was also sponsored by skillshare, and he also gave us a link like this haha
they probably sponsor every electronics youtuber they could find
i just noticed this video is uploaded 5 minutes ago but your comment is made 1 week ago
@@ErtugrulOzdemir-mf1gl yeah
Is there a skill share course in not writing everything forwards and backwards???
The most difficult part about smd soldering is when you buy an expensive micro chip that you waited for months and it falls from the table into the void to never be seen again
True
No, no. They don't just fall of the table, they warp to the fifth dimension because otherwise, it'll be possible to find them but not in this case.
When you grab an 0402 resistor with tweezers too hard and it just gets shot into space
Our when you knock over a whole tray of them in the pick and place machine!
I know that feeling 😂
Hi I work for an electronics assembly company and I think I can help out with your smt assembly process. The main issue I saw in your technique was the paste application, you should try to get the stencil much flatter, you can't have tape laying under the stencil as it raises the edge. You should try to lay a line of paste then uses a squeegee or credit card to swipe the paste in one clean motion, additional passes would cause unwanted squeeze through. When you finish you should check and see no excess paste between qfn pads, if you get this right the reflow will work with pretty much any of your techniques with no shorts. Personally, when I'm home assembling boards I preheat the boards to around 200c which you could do with the sand, then I let it soak for around 60 seconds and then finally reflow the solder with a hot air station, world's perfectly for me everytime.
Happy soldering :D
for sure that was way too much solder paste
Thanks for the suggestions.
Soak in what?
Yes, you could watch the stencil bounce and the results showed a lot of paste in the contacts. That's likely why the oven profile didn't work, there was too much thermal mass for the give heat and amount of time.
heat.
Entertaining and informative, as always.
Before changing employment to R&D in a new company, I did 5 years of SMD reflow and rework, a few tips for a possible revisit video.
1. Hot air blower only does tent to melt some plastics due to how long it takes the board to heat up, when building or reworking I always used a heat plate to heat the board from below, much less time was needed with the hot air blower to make connections, I also found that touching up connections worked best with blower and iron, iron alone often would not be able to heat the Solder enough without help from hot air.
2. I have not tried sand yet but I imagine it would be a lot more effective if a glass pan lid was place over the pan to retain air heat around the board, I've also seen this done with sand.
3. For all methods, a good single pass with paste is best. Ensure stencil is in the correct place and apply a good amount of paste along one side, them with firm, slow and even pressure, hold spatula/bank card at an angle and make one pass and lift stencil. You should find nice Solder deposits with fine vertical edges.
When making more than one pass the stencil lifts then catches the edge of existing Solder and pushes it away from the pad, this happened with your USB-C.
4. Missing mechanical connection sderon USB-C, a few tiny blobs of paste applied with tooth pic or iron soldered afterwards, the 4 tabs each side of the USB need to be soldered to the board, they are for mechanical strength, not electrical. With out these all insertion, removal and any cable movement stresses are all applied to the pads and will break in a short time.
If you have made it to the end of this, thank you for reading, I love your videos, I hope this information is seen as useful and not plain criticism.
Kapton tape and a piece of metal helps to deflect and protect objects on a laptop board that don't like to be heated via hot air gun. All the while soldering desired SMD device nicely.
@@DurzoBlunts ah yes, I forgot about shielding, as most of the boards I worked with had. Ever seen the light of day, I would often use the break off board edging that's part of the panel of multiple boards, hold it in place with Kapton if there was not way to safely remove and replace after working on another component.
cant solder for tits... zero skill zero ability and zero mindset!
What is your opinion about using ALUMINA POWDER instead of SAND?
Theoretically it should be better because of the higher thermal conductivity.
@@paulcohen1555 Its not something I've thought of, in theory the thermal conductivity would be better, though I would have concerns about any remaining powers getting trapped in vias or somehow getting up to the topside of the board.
Sand or salt is a lot easier to source and does not conduct electricity, if I needed to rework a board at home, I think I would stick with sand.
*Fun fact* :
Scott uses "Recently" as the first word in about 99.9% of the videos 😂
I love it! Directly to the point... also I skipped the LED panel soldering on 99,99% of the Videos... 😂
Fun fact: 90% of statistics are fake.
@@GRBtutorials Including that one?
@@heh2393 Yep
About a month late GreatScott!. I bought the same hot air station to repair my Nintendo switch motherboard with (eventually) positive results (my nintendo switch now functions again)! A note on your use of the hot air station, make sure to heat up the board from a distance for a few minutes so that the entire pcb is warm (it makes reflowing the solder much easier) and then go in close with the hot air gun. Also, you can shield the usb type c port with capton tape to reduce the likelihood of melting the connector. Great first try, would recommend the hot air station for anyone doing re-work/repair and the reflow oven for new pcbs (not everyone wants to reflow all components at once during a repair job).
Also, as noted by a few other commentors, there was too much solder paste on the board for all operations.
Little tip for better stencil printing:
Spread the solderpaste next to the holes and use a PCB with a good straight edge (holding it 70 degrees to the stencil in pushing direction) to push the solderpaste to the other side. Don't do it more than once and you will get perfect solder joints.
Trust me. I'm working at a electronics company. We printing and do smd pick and place thousands of pcbs per week. Sometimes we need to do prototypes with stencil too and I am better in printing with the stencil as the printer designed for that.
If you need, I can do a video how I would do it. Sadly I can't show it with a stencil at home because I don't have a project right now.
3:02 I would recomand fix the stencil better, so it don't lift up from the pcb.
You will get much sharper outlines (than 3:23) because there is less solder paste on the pad and much more important it don't get under the stancil.
Otherwise you will get some problems with smaller ICs or when our solder paste get a bit older.
(Some of your problems in this video also come from it i would say)
For T962A there some (pricey) upgrade kits like from estechnical.
But it is only sensible if the reflow oven is used more often.
Works just fine for me for prototyping or pre-series PCBs.
Whoa, thanks for those high magnification shots of the solder paste. I'd never seen the actual particles of solder so clearly before. Neat!
I enjoy your videos! Looking at your soldering process, I see room for improvements in a few places. 1) your stencil might have been too thick for the size of features you were trying to print. See if you can order one closer to .100mm. The thickness of the stencil is how you control how much paste gets deposited.
2) your solder paste shows "T3" (type 3) which tells me the size of the solder balls. Those are also on the large size for your project. Try to find a T4 or T4.5 and you'll probably have better luck.
3) not sure if this contributed to your issues, but pay attention to the shelf life and storage conditions of your solder paste. Keep it refrigerated until a few hours before you are ready to use it then let it warm up to room temp. Unrefrigerated, some types of solder paste are trash in only 2 weeks. If kept under 6°C, you can get 6 to 12 months tops.
4) try upgrading your squeegee to a razor blade or a glass microscope slide. Credit cards can actually get abraided by the apertures in the stencil and leave tiny plastic slices behind
5) always get stencils with frames. That's makes the release much cleaner than a with a flimsy piece of steel.
Best of luck!
Thank you soooo much for this post! I just started using solder paste a few weeks ago and never though/heard about refrigeration. My paste has been sitting on the shelf with the lid shut for about a month now (just checked it still looks good as in shiny from the flux). Just refrigerated it as I hope to be using it for at least the rest of this year in my various projects.
Thanks for the advice but you cannot possibly think that a hobbyist would get rid of their solder paste every year. As hobbyist or small volume prototype makers we don't have the needs of a mass production organization so it has to last at least 10 years
Hobbyist or not, every solder paste has a shelf life / expiration date. Refrigeration simply extends the effective lifetime of the paste. As for the paste lasting "at least 10 years", erm.. I have no clue where did you pull that number from. Most of these typically have a shelf life of 6 months (with refrigeration), although they'll still be technically usable for a while longer.
@@AlessioSangalli well, it depends how many PCBs and SMT components you want to throw away instead due to joints that didn't complete. There is clearly a trade off between age of your solder paste and yield. I think the point is, buy the quantity you think you'll need in the next 6 months. We can get syringes as small as 10g. One advantage of that size is that they warm up quickly when you need them.
1) No, it doesn't look like the stencil is too thick, but a thinner one may compensate for imperfect technique.
2) T3 is probably the largest you want to use for this, but it's more than fine. T4 is good for general purpose.
3) Many pastes from chipquik don't need refrigeration, and that also isn't what is causing him issues
4) Agreed
5) Mostly agree, but these are pretty expensive.
The most important point is actually this: you get shorts when your stencil is moving up and down as you work. You need to apply and then scrape the paste in one pass each. In other words, don't 'play' with the paste. You need to get the taping scheme right to keep the stencil down as much as possible. Best case scenario is you drag the scraper behind the applicator, keeping the stencil pressed down in between the two operations, but that requires some coordination, and is really only needed on large boards.
In my youth I was involved in the hobby of lapidary. I heated stones to change their colors, or to speed up epoxy cure times. When I used sand, it would get in the epoxy and looked bad. I ended up using table salt. If it got on the epoxy, it would dissolve in water. I suppose in the case of electronics, if one were to use salt, it would require very careful cleaning after cool down.
Will you share some knowledge with us?
What rocks did you heat, why, where did you find them etc?
Most stuff on google about lapidary refers to diamond cutting.
If you use distilled water and have no power applied (i.e. batteries) salt could work, just wash the water with alcohol after that.
@@lazar2175 I'm not the guy you were talking to (I didn't spread rumors of my amorous adventures to the extent they were still believed over two hundred years later, for instance), but I've had good luck at forum.rocktumblinghobby.com.
I got into it when I went to Greenland. Want to find interesting rocks in Greenland? Look down.
We've come a long way this is hundreds of times easier now a days
Nice video GreatScott! I had surprisingly good results using a really simple heat gun, first heating the board up a bit from afar and then coming in closer. I did use a technique mentioned in other comments, making sure I had cleanly applied solder paste to reduce touch-ups.
People who dislike these videos... Why????? Its literally FREE information made to HELP you.
Thanks for your video on this. Two tips however! One, you can save money on the stencil by using a solder paste from a tube. It's possible to apply by hand without a sencil. Two, you can skip the sand and reflow right on the pan! With an infrared stovetop that lets you skip the pan too and go right on the glass.
Great man. Love watching your videos. Everytime I learn something new
Awesome!
@@greatscottlab That's your catch frase AWESOME, and you are also AWESOME
😊👏
It will also help you a lot when using a multiple thicknesses one. In German it is called Stuffenschablone. It helps to distribute different quantities of solder paste. That's why QFN, MLP and BGA packages require one. KSG or Siebtronic are one of the companies that do that. Happy soldering! Looking forward for your next video :)
When you pick up a 0402 resistor with tweezers and it infront of your eyes vanish by opening a smal black hole and forever never to be seen again.
“The Gray hole: an area in space where 0402 resistors and single socks go, and household dust comes from.”
Try an 0201 package that is 10/1000" x 5/1000" of an inch in size. In a microscope tweezers look huge and the package looks like it a size you can pickup until you take your eye from the 'scope and try to find said part(ha-ha).Jokes on us. Next project is a pick and place machine with a Gerber like file per pcb board project
Hey GreatScott! Thanks for this Video. Right now I get started with smd components and this video helped me a lot. I never heard about the resoldering technique with the pan. I think I will try it out soon. Keep this good quality up. Greetings from Bavaria.
I like your channel name
GreatScott getting us through quarantine tho :)
@UnknownPlayer but it is true, you cannot deny it. Also, more often that not, people that use terms like that without context while engaging in unprovoked aggressive discussion, have themselves mental problems or unresolved psychological situations
@UnknownPlayer ok i will next time
I love it! I grew my love for electronics with your videos 😃
I have used a regular, big, hot air gun, but, unlike the hot air source you used, it heats a big area...place the PCB inside a box that is about 3-4 do the size of the PCB, held on some kind of platform, or, hung from wires that go through mounting holes, or simply wrap around the board...then, you use the hot air gun, blowing across the bottom and top of the board alternately, until you see the reflow... The box keeps the hot air circulating around the whole board, so that you are not heating individual parts of the board too much... combined with the stencil, this works really well. Thanks for the video, & Ein gutes Neues Jahr!
I keep loving Great Scott
I worked with that reflow oven on my ex job. You had to use program 8(old software), that was test program for reflow.
You have to press more on stencil to avoid shorts after reflow.
Also, you can use syringe with solder paste and reflow station, works great!
Hey just one thing. I am a micro soldering technician and when you are doing rework on smd chips, you don’t leave the paste on the pcb, you place the solder paste on the chip and you heat it up, and then add flux and place it on the pcb. Also for connectors and caps or resistors you add the solder on the pcb and melt it. The add the component and reflow with flux. It makes the perfect job.
That technique is ideal for rework, as you obviously can't use a stencil on the PCB with parts already on it.
If you are assembling a complete PCB, then you definitely would apply paste to the PCB with a stencil, place all parts, and then reflow the lot in one go.
Vielen Dank für die immer wieder lehrreichen Videos. Liebe Grüsse aus der Schweiz - bleib gesund und bis zum nächsten Mal
I have the T962 and it was interesting seeing you following the exact same upgrades I did a few years ago! One tip when using the T962, you need to keep the board off the tray - I just use some spare FR4 board - the metal tray acts as a heat sink and prevents the air blower getting air underneath the board. Great video! 😃
What you said. I was just about to say that!
I see others use bolts (M2?) with a nut to make moveable standoffs. Bolt head is on underside of tray, nut is on topside and tip of bolt is your standoff. You can spread these around to put your board on which gives you good airflow and mechanical stability during heating.
Some tips for you guys who attempt the first method, use the card to apply solder into the stencil diagonally from the holes, and try to go over only once, this way there won't be any excess solder, so less to none soldering iron action. Also if you are afraid of overheating components use Bismuth based solder, which is more expensive but solidifies at 160 degrees.
Thanks man.
A few years ago my colleague and I built a soldering oven from an open source project at instructables. Since then, we have soldered and repaired many devices with it. Sometimes we even desolder components using this device.
GreatScott, Is that a DIY usb c pd board? I've been wanting to make one for my projects! :)
Maybe......wait for next week ;-)
That would be pretty sweet ! :-)
@@greatscottlab I assume its a USB PD controller. ;)
Fingers crossed big time!
@@greatscottlab FUSB302 sorry 😇
Thanks for the vid! How thick of a layer of sand do you recommend for that method?
For the hot air method try heating the board underneath to protect sensitive chips or components with plastic. Takes longer than direct heating but it works well
I love the visuals of this video :)
THANKS A LOT for those free 2 PREMIUN months and for such a greats vids Scott... BLESS 👈🏾🎩!!!
Regarding T-962A, you’ll probably want to do the cold-junction compensation mod - otherwise all the temp ramps come in low. At least that’s what happened on mine. I also added a second fan on the opposite side which also helped to keep the controller cool.
I really want to make projects everytime you upload latest video Engr. GreatScott!
You are the great Scott , great video👍👍👍👍
I do my soldering with an IR preheating station and a reflow heat gun.
Preheat your boards slowly up to like 200-225C and then use the heat gun at about 15-20C above the reflow temp of your paste, and they should reflow within seconds, giving little time for any damage to nearby components. This is especially useful with large boards because I can leave them on the IR preheater and slowly bring them back down to temp so they don't warp.
Another Great video BIG-GS
Haven't finished video yet, but 3:23 the way he said beautiful I just loved it
Super useful tips :) thank you. The sand method looks promising if you can be careful about it. One definitely wouldn't want to spill oven baked sand in their home.
Something important to consider when using stencils is the effect of parallax. At those sizes it becomes an issue, and I could clearly see the paste misalignment in the video due to this. Luckily the soldermask on the PCB gives you tolerance to this.
"Where MLP stands for Micro Leadframe Package"
Scott while writing the script: "Totally not My Little Pony or anything"
I have a daughter so, My Little Pony was the first place my mind went to on seeing MLP.
I use a standard cooking oven. Preheat to 475 F. Insert board for 3 minutes. Very professional results with no component failures after 20+ boards done so far.
usually, when I'm doing SMD, I use a hot air gun almost exclusively. I typically use MG Chemicals flux and a 60/40 solder blend. I usually tin the pads with as much solder as they can hold with my trusty TS-100, and the components as well (if they are large enough). and usually, the flux lets the solder flow enough that the connections are solid. It does require a little extra cleanup with 70% isopropyl alcohol and a toothbrush, but I think it turns out better than most of my attempts with solder paste.
Thank you, Scott 👍
Hi scott, great video! Can you do a video on reflowing double-sided pcb's? Thanks.
Awesome work
Congratulations, with one video you just convinced me to switch to SMT.
lots of helpful comments on here, I personally preheat board and then use hot air gun for reflow. stencils are a right pain especially for reballing, reading that it works much better in single pass is helpful, thank you community :)
Muy buenos vídeos, saludos desde Argentina
Exelent explanation
Nice! I'm still waiting for the SMD reflow hotplate I ordered from aliexpress over a month ago to even be shipped! I'm pretty close to just cancelling it and ordering another from a different vendor. The reflow oven looks nice, but I've only got a tiny apartment so I have no idea where I'd keep it. Not to mention it's a bout twice the cost of the hotplate, even before you add the cost of shipping! So I think the hotplate is a good compromise.
Thanks for great and detail demonstration on PCB reflow. But do you mind to share how to define the proper thickness of the stencil choosen? Different component (caps / relay / IC ) should have different pin and HW spec. How can you to do that?
2nd(sand) method i like
Nice video👍
I think you put way more paste on the pads with that stencil, and thats why you had to remove a bunch of solder after reflow. You could also try applying the paste with a syringe with a small flat end needle. Also you could use additional flux, it helps the solder stick to the surfaces, and can also help with dividing the joints, so it will be less likely to form solder bridges. AMtech makes very good flux that requires little to no cleanup after reflow, you can also go Louis Rossman with it and use a liter of it for one chip :D Great video BTW, greetings from Hungary!
Nothing beats hot air gun when you want precision soldering. My recent findings on a qfn 20 with irregular shape taught me that you need to observe the paste when it reflow and move the chip around a bit or even remove it and put it back in order to avoid shorts and misalignments...
You might have a better reflow in the over if you elevate the PCB on stand-offs. The slots in the tray look like they may be screw slots. Try to get the smallest contact area you can between the PCB and the top of the stand offs and give that a try.
Great video! Thank you!
Several years back I looked into this and found that you can use low temperature solder paste for this. (Other people have also done this.) Bismuth solder is generally low temp and can be found in lead free version. Its so low temp you could probably get by with a hair dryer or heat shrink gun. You can also get industrial hot air guns for low price but these will likely damage the PCB if not careful.
One problem with Bismuth solder is that it is low temp, in particular when certain blends come into contact with lead. Assuming my memory is correct, Bismuth solder will melt lower than lead free which melts higher than leaded. This will generally stay around 138 degrees Celsius, however when lead is present it can go to around 95.
I would check this, but the point is you can get around 5cc (15g) of paste for 11 dollars and a heat source for around 14. Which makes this pretty low cost, and does not risk losing a pan. You can still damage the PCB but you would have to try a little harder to do.
General recommendation is to warm the board up slowly, apply the high temp, followed by a slow cool down. This is to prevent thermal shock which can happen due to thermal expansion/contraction. Heat can also cause layer separation if not careful or using certain kinds. Note: boards will be hot as they act like thermal capacitors, for example concert in the blistering sun. You can also use the surface tension of molt solder to help test/ensure reflow and part placement. (Be at a point where you are calm, steady, rested and patient. It can save you money and time!)
The sand approach is interesting, compared to the hot plate method. Hot air still works best for lead free or normal temp solder, which you would want for linear regulators which produce heat and operate over 95 degrees Celsius. The oven will likely always win due to the ability to follow profile. However hot plate may work for some compared to hot air. I have yet to master hot air, and can be a serious challenge depending for certain PCBs. I would recommend starting with low temp unless your design can't. The idea of super heating Teflon is not recommended either.
Note I am far from an expert on this. Remember to read all disclaimers, datasheets, material/hazard information, etc.
fctsolder.com/products/low-temperature-solder-paste/
www.sparkfun.com/products/10326
www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/chip-quik-inc/NC191LT15/315-NC191LT15-ND/11480396
well presented - THANK YOU old git, UK
Well,the trick of using hot air is similar to reflow smd, u can't put the handle close to components at the very beginning. u need to get a little bit far and let the rosin in the paste to melt and just like reflow curves. Then after warming up for about half to a minute, u can put ur hot air handle close to the board for about 5 to 10s and ur components will be well soldered. I 've tried hot air for many boards and they all look pretty decent. The key is to simulate the reflow curves and don't haste. Components are more tough than we expected.
Very nice! I didn't know you could buy reflow ovens so cheap
I am considering a new idea for my next project. What do you think about it?
I will drill out 4 unplated holes at the 4 corners of the PCB, and there will be 4 more corresponding holes on the stencil at the exact same places. I will hold the stencil still by fixing the stencil with bolts and nuts. Do you recommend this idea?
to unsolder the SMD LEDs I used a 50 W armored resistor and I powered it until it developed all its power.
Resting the printed circuit on the resistance, after a short time the solder melted allowing me to remove the led and replace it.
For small printed circuits you can use the same method: it is equivalent to the sand method but to me the solder has melted very well ... for large circuits you can add resistors on metal plates. I also removed integrated circuits like yours without problems.
Since it was disassembly for me, I did not worry too much about the temperature reached, but the LEDs once disassembled still worked perfectly.
By doing some tests you can get to the right temperature without risk for semiconductors.
see you soon
Iam still learning more how soldier smd but your opinion and tips really are helpful Thank you soo much ❤️❤️❤️
Soldier? :P
@@MrBrechtD 😂😂😂 dayumm i didn't realized that 😂
I was about to write how to solder
I'm doing some experiments with some stuff i already have at home. Especially i've found a washing machine heater and a nicely flat iron plate (of 15x15x1cm). Do you think that using the plate to spread the heat of the washing machine heater will do the trick?
Again, another awesome video! Thanks!!
My pleasure!
One recommendation to add on to what others have said. You might get better results lifting the PCB off the tray of the IR oven. I use a few strips of PCB to do this (left over tooling edges that have been broken off, etc) and get better performance. However larger boards, it has some hot and cold spots
I have same oven, great little thing. Been planning to update firmware for a while but havent gotten around to it.
Thanks! Interesting and useful.
Great Video :D, when I have to solder smd for both sides, how air flow is the unique solution?
Wow I never thought about that sand method before. I wonder if it would work well with reflowing PCBs that have components on top and underneath.. or maybe it'll make a mess.
Any thoughts?
Thank you so much for your verry great explanation.
Sir, It will be verry helpfull to us, if you make for us a video about solder mask, all about this task please sir.
Hi, In your "GREAT SCOTT" LED name board, i couldn't find any resistor connected in series with the power supply. Without a series resistor , it would burn the LEDs in the long run right.
Finally a new sponsor :D
Great video, thanks!
Great vids as always sorry to bother you but I have a warning drawer in kitchen how can it control element temp when only three wires from circuit board are live neutral and earth. Great English by the way thanks Dave from Portsmouth
Very interesting, I expected oven method to be more reliable, but it seems that some rework was required. If I need to pull out my soldering station anyway then I might skip the oven part altogether. Thanks!
Very interesting, thanks!
What about infrared top heater? Did you test this method? Please tell (and show) if yes. Thank you!
I did not know about the sand layer method. interesting ;-)
We really need to get you some good tweezers. A set of SMD precision tweezers is like $6. And as comments below said, that's about 2x the solder paste that should be on that board. Also, I never run my reflow heat gun higher than 225°C. It takes 8-10 seconds to warm up part of the board.
Thanks for doing these videos.
Great scott is great
I already have a Hot Air station, the problem of overheating I did see solved to some extend is to use kepton tape. I did not try that at this time. I also have a Hot Plate that i am going to try soon, only disadvantage is that I don't have a stencil.
GreatScott, I want to know what do you think about car headlight lamp that used as smd soldering gun.. can it be used for this application?
I'm planning to make a custom board with small arm/mips chipset to run some linux firmware, but i don't have hot air gun to solder the chip to the board (sorry for my bad english)
buying an oven, reprogramming it, using it - I love it
Hi mate. You seem to do well in this component of the board. Do you think able to do neater and better controller and lcd display for electric scooter compare to manufacturer? (What I meant better is all the parts will not easily come off the board)
Thus, I enjoyed thee video!
It's cool to see that you can also do this at home potentially easy. I've choose the easier way and ordered it with all parts placed and soldered from jlcpcb. It's a little bit more work with the lists you need to send them but if there are more components it seems more efficient😅 and is also not much more expensive 😉
i have rx480 gpu i need solder 4 very small smd's on. can i use solder paste and an oven? if so at what temp? thanks
For what it's worth, SeanHodgins has some videos about using solder paste with stencils. He really stresses using as little as possible. If you used less, you might not need to touch up your joints at all.
Thank You!!
I would be curious what you think of building a reflow oven. I have done that using an old toaster oven, an arduino with a temp sensor inside the oven, and a relay. Turn the oven to hot, no timer, hit start on the arduino and it ran. There are some really good arduino sketches out there for DIY reflow.
Me ha encantado el video
Just watched your video. Did you go through and adjust the gain and offset for the thermocouples in the firmware under settings? I did the calibration using a thermocouple taped to a PCB and ran at differnt temperatures in manual. I was able to back out the gain and offset to calibrate the two thermocouples in firmware. Made a big difference for me. I also have the cold junction mod and firmware upgrade.
Hey Scott, I would recommend trying out a knife tip (like the hakko T18-K) for soldering QFN packages. I load the tip with some solder on both sides, apply a generous amount of flux and drage the tip across the edge and it solders nicely. The dragging action wicks out excess solder. Only thing to consider is you will have to hold longer if there is ground pads to allow heat transfer.
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Look into silkscreen printing, it uses basically the same processes we already use to develop circuit boards but you remove some of the plastic material that allows for making tshirts... It also makes GREAT pcb stencils that don't last very long (not as durable as a piece of stainless steel) but are cheap and can be made in just a few hours, using the same printing systems that we already use for pcb etching.
So I'm (hopefully) going to be doing some SMD rework, so would you still recommend using sand if you have a hot air station?
Hi Dude... I really like ur videos..i have a question for you and for viewer`s as well if they want.
I`m 3rd year at electronics university and i choose a project which is based on Radio FM Frequencies 88.3 - 107.5.
Do you have any idea how can i broadcast a song/voice/anything through all frequencies between 8.3-107.5 for .. 5 meters?
I mean ... in 5 meters range..every frequencies between 88.3 - 107.5. will broadcast my song/voice.
Thanks in advice.