How to deal with seized locomotives - Little helpers
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 27 ส.ค. 2024
- Seized (or ceased?, blocked, "verharzt") locomotives are something collectors of older Märklin (or other) model trains are likely to encounter at some point. This little video covers a method to get things going again when that happens.
I hope you enjoy the video.
Channel email: the3rdrailchannel@gmail.com
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Credits:
www.märklin.de
#Märklin #Vintage #analog #tmrguk
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Very accommodating and superbly clearly explained as per usual. Especially essential for novices such as we. Wonderful, and thank you so much for taking the time 👏👏👏
Mission accomplished then 😉 Glad you found this helpful, thanks for the visit.
No less than a Master Class!!! Congratulations.
just a few tidbits cobbled together. Thanks for the compliment.
Super video from you. Thumps up. 👍😁😀🙋♂️🙋♂️
Thanks a lot, schön, dass Du vorbeigeschaut hast.
A timely and useful video as I am in the initial stages of setting up my Märklin trains after being stored away for over 20 years when the railway room was requisitioned by an expanding family!
mission accomplished 😉 Glad it is of some use. Good luck!
That BR03 is absolutely beautiful!
Especially now that it can move again 😉 thanks for the visit!
As always enjoyed your video s interesting and informative thanks for sharing your experience and passion for this hobby looking forward to your future posts wishing you a very happy Christmas 🎅 and a great new year warmest regards al 🎄☃️🚂🚂👍❄️🤗
Glad you enjoyed the video Al. I hope you have a good xmas and new year. Take care.
@@The3rdRail 🎄☃️🚂👋🤗👍
Thank you for this video. It is very helpful and I have subscribed.
Thanks for the sub! Welcome on board!
a nice repair manual, well shown and explained, greetings Kai👌👌👍👍😊😊
Thanks 👍
Thank you as always for great maintenance videos !
Glad you appreciate them
one followup. you are using WD40 to clean the wheels. how do you get it in the syringe?
Take the plunger off, then a short squirt of wd-40, let the fluid settle, repeat until you have the desired quantity, replace plunger. Tbh, I use it straight out of the can most of the time.
Gracias por este util video..mis cordiales saludos!!😊
Thanks for the visit!
Thank you for this! The timing was actually perfect, so were the explanations and the topic itself. Happy holidays! :)
Great stuff, mission accomplished! Merry Christmas! 🚂🎄🥂
This was so helpful! Thank you so much for posting 🙏
Glad it was helpful!
this was very helpful
mission accomplished!
Heel goed gedaan.
Hier heb ik veel van geleerd, bedankt voor deze video.
You are too kind, thanks a lot
Very useful and simply understandable...great...thanks
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you for this very clear and useful video
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you very much for sharing your knowledge! Just dug out a 3157 that apparently never has been run and came across the described issue ...
Glad this was helpful.
Excellent and very informative as always 😊
Thanks a lot, I bet you are going to look for seized models now 😉
Thank you. :))
👍
I never though about the wheel bearing getting loose. I recently did my 3000 loco, I´ll check if the wheel are ok. Thanks for the tip.
Glad it helped
If at your loco is one or more wheel loose, just set one little drop of "loctite 638" outside of the wheel perpendicular to the axle. That will fasten the wheel. WD 40 is not bad, but there is something better and cheaper. Take a little drop of SR 24 "Dampföl" which nearly each model railway enthusiast ownes. Sorry about my bad English.
Your english is not bad. Thanks for sharing.
I tried loctite 638 in the past, but it was a disaster. the problem wasn't the glue, but aligning the wheels properly. I am not good at this type of things...
SR 24 is good but not easy to find outside of Germany, and when it is, it is quite expensive. Other products I am sure would work too, the main thing is that whatever is used doesn't damage paint.
Thanks for the visit
Thanks a lot. I am nearly 75 Years old an I learnt English at school about 60 years ago and there was not often a opportunity to use. Instead the use of SR 24 there is a little trick. In German it is called "Kaltreiniger". Translatet word by word it means "cold cleaner". That is a mixture of n- and Iso alcanes from C8 to C11. Just with a little content
Happy to help you practise 😉
I looked and WD-40 is the same as Kaltreineiger : n+isoalkane C9 to 11 with 1% more aromatics
So not that bad after all 😉
Nichtsdestotrotz, danke für den Hinweis.Schönen Gruss aus London.
Good video!
Thanks!
Awesome Video. Nicely done. 👍👍
Dankeschön!
👍👍👍👍
🙏
Merci
Pas de souci.
Fantastic video on what happens to everybody. Thanks for all your useful tips. I hope it is ok for me to link to this video from my channel - I think this will be useful for a lot of Märklinist. Enjoy ;-)
Glad you approve of it 😉 Feel free to share it wherever you want 👍
@@The3rdRail Will do - thanks ;-)
So interesting to see your tips around how you fix and take apart the different trains. I would love to know what you use for cleaning grime and dust from wagons and trains both metal and plastic parts
Glad you find these videos helpful. There are a couple a videos where I do a bit of what you are after: SNCB Self unloaders (th-cam.com/video/5ChEs0XyjIg/w-d-xo.html), Wehrmacht Shunters (th-cam.com/video/_KzkRPxBucE/w-d-xo.html) or 3067 (th-cam.com/video/qHtVCDkcv84/w-d-xo.html), but will bear in mind as a topic for potential dedicated video.
Thank you for this informative and helpful video. From your experience, do you think the more modern "synthetic" oils are less likely to solidify over time? And if so, what is your preferred brand? Many thanks.
You are welcome. Modern synthetic oils should be less prone to hardening, but everything I had in my hands needed some attention in the end, whatever the color of the stuff that had been applied by previous hands. Whether some of it was synthetic is unknown to me... Any modern model railway oil, applied sparingly!, should be fine. As mentioned in the video, I settled on ballistol (neither synthetic nor modern 😉) which I have been using for years now, it can be expensive but a small bottle lasts an eternity.
@@The3rdRail Many thanks for sharing this info with me.
Thank you very much for your usefull videos. I have a question, at the end of this video, it is shown a multiple 3 locomotives in operation coupled, but I have observed that different locomotives have different speed at the same output voltage (in analog operation). How can I operate without this problem in a 2 or 3 locomotives coupled? Thanks again!!
No problem. Quite simple: one in front of the other 😉. The difference is not a problem, a slow loco will be pulled or pushed by faster ones or slow them down automatically, no need to think too much in this context. The problems start at signals though: your stopping sections need to be long enough to cover the distance between pick up shoes, and you have to hope that the second loco will be strong enough to push the front one so that its pickup shoe reaches the stopping section. Check this video:th-cam.com/video/6PpctvNX3-k/w-d-xo.html, it contains a crocodile double header, the locos are set-up so their pick-up shoes are close to each other, so the front one is running "backwards" (pick up shoe at the back), when the train reaches a stop, the front loco powers off first, and it is pushed by the second one until its pick up shoe reaches the stop. This type of config works with locos whose wheels can be turned whithout power.
I normally use an old toothbrush to clean the cogwheels. But remember! do not use it to brush your teeth.
😀
I have a general question: I recently bought an old piko lok. Cleaned, fixed it, it runs fine for being 40+ years old. But the carbons of the engines makes a lot of smell. Is it safe to make it run for long periods? Is it any risk that can it burn? Thank you in advance!
I am not familiar with Piko, but carbon brushes don't generate a strong smell usually, it is old oil deposits that do. Depending on the motor, you might want to check if there isn't some area that might require a bit more attention. I am sure you should be able to google your locomotive and get some information about that. If not, look for maintenance instructions of similar Piko locos of the same vintage, this should point you in the right direction. That's, if the good old DDR didn't run out of black ink when the loco was made of course... 😉
Thanks a lot! I'll give it a thourough cleanse!
I use brake cleaner for cars to clean up old oil, works fine
Isn't that attacking the paint on chassis and wheels?
In any case, they are your trains you do what you want with them... thanks for the visit!
@@The3rdRail It evaporates very quickly, try it 🙂
I'll stick to my method, I like my paint too much 😀
There was a " hazard" if the original Märklin Oil was used like recommannded in the operating instructions back in the 80s.
That oil had a chemical reaction and glued the mechanic 🤬
thanks for the visit.