Steve, Thank you for this valuable lesson, I never knew... We-all (Southern talk) have messed up something, machining. Everybody should kick in a buck to the pot so Mr Don can get his machine back in Business. 👍
Steve, I have rarely seen someone more crestfallen than you at the end of the video, you have my sympathy. I have seen spanners and hammers embedded in walls in similar situations and cats run for their lives.
Most tense video I've every seen! I kept waiting for a misstep. A crash. Eeek! But in the end it was a complete surprise. My father used to say "Into each life some rain must fall." Didn't help much..
I feel your pain! And anyone who claims they haven't messed up something similar is a damn liar! Even Adam Booth has claimed the blame a couple of times.
Also, you might have to relieve the threading tool below the cutting edge because it might rub in the cut because the thread helix angle will be pretty fast. After you make sure it is not rubbing, make a 1" test nut out of some scrap, split it, blue the threads, and then fit it so you can see how it actually fits and how your thread contact is. Fast and double pitch threads are harder than they initially seem.
At least it was not a machining mistake. "Damaging the LH boring bar" I never machined a multi start thread myself. Would like to see how you going to do it. Can't wait for the video.
Instead of starting at the same place on the threading dial, you start at 2 different places on the threading dial with double the pitch. I think you cut one whole thread first, then come back and cut the other thread inbetween the first one by starting at a different place on the threading dial that gets you 180* from the first start
@@10swatkins I'm really curious what "the hard way" is now... also I hope you explain why you can't just pick 2 different numbers on the threading dial on this lathe in the next video too - I'm sure lots of people would be interested in why you can't do it the way you'd first expect
A work mate had to cut a 3/16" double start internal thread for a model steam engine on a Myford Lathe, got it done. I have seen a four start ACME thread on a steam turbine, governor stop valve. Good luck on the next one, pity not enough meat to sleeve and silver braze.
Hi Steve, Don, checked my lathe, minimum TPI is 4 tpi, so will not cut 2 tpi, hoping the Axelson will cut 2 tpi. Takes it to another skill level to cut that thread!!!!
I'd there enough metal to bore it out and fit a sleeve. I have fixed a couple of lead screw itself this way. Produced the sleeve from round bar and then loctite it in and added a screw to make sure it doesn't move
I put a piece of tape on the cross slide and one on the carriage. A pen mark across tells me where I want to be.for the cut. Now can move that axis anywhere and return.
Was this filmed before the cast iron nut was cut? I guess the timing confuses me and I commented that it was likely a 2 start thread on that video. Anyway, for those interested for a 2 start thread you set the pitch for half the thread (4tpi for a 2 start 8tpi thread) so you're cutting double the lead. Cut on thread to depth, rotate the work 180 and cut the second. Rotating the work can be done by mounting the chuck on an indexing face plate (kind of a mount that attaches to the spindle face and chuck back and can rotate independently from the spindle) or by indexing the chuck 180 after disengaging the gearing to the leadscrew, then re-engaging the gearing. The second method can be kinda tricky.
Looks like a new definition of “Double Trouble”. On the upside we all learned something. I’ll definately be on the look out for this on my future projects. I wonder if the dials are different for the two screws.
Well then ... that sucks. I've heard of, and seen, double start threads. Throughout this series, you've shown us the original wore out nut a few times ... even zooming in on it to show the wear. Never noticed the dual start threads .. What I always found odd (even back when you were making the test blocks out of machinst wax) was the 2 holes in the oil resevoir ... it seemed overkill for such an uncontrolled oiler. I wonder if the two holes line up with each seperate pitch of the two threads? Thanks for sharing 🇨🇦
Can you show us the end of the double start thread, I’d like to see what it looks like from the end of the shaft to actually see the double start. Thanks! Don took that well, I guess at some point you realize that things happen the wrong way and don’t get all worked up over it. Good way to look at things.
If you have the wall thickness, bore it out and stuff a bronze sleeve in there. Loctite 648 will keep it there. Don’t tell anyone, but the cross feed nut on my lathe may be done exactly that way 🤣
Time to consider over-boring and soft soldering in a threaded sleeve. That could be almost invisible and you get a big joint area for very little effort. A slight taper and you will see it drop down the moment it is ready to flow 😁
Might be easier to make a new LH single thread shaft to fit the nut than the very difficult double 2 tpi with no accurate gage to check it. Hang Dons double shaft on the wall with the sign “Steve’s Fault”.
On this Axelson I will use a dial indicator to move the second thread into position as it can't be done with the threading dial as other lathes I have had could...
@@Jeremy-iv9bc Yes that would also work as long as the compound is moved exactly the correct distance. In this case the tool must be advanced .250 to machine the second thread.
Yep this is why I make a test piece for every thing expensive out of a 2$ piece of whatever soon as ya think you got this life throws you a curve ball everytime
@@10swatkins I made the same mistake remaking a radial arm lift head nut it was a painful lesson 200$ worth of bronze 1200$ part just tuned to 8$ in bronze with a quickness
Its way to hard to remove the lead screw, there are shifting forks and sliding gear mechanisms inside. Would take hours and I would have to disassemble the entire thing.
Hi Steve and Don is there enough meat in the nut to bore it out over size and fit a pres fit bush with the thread in it. would be much cheaper and quicker than starting over with the whole block
Not enough there to stand up to the forces... I was going to do that to the cast iron nut but it is just not enought.. I have a new plan for that scraped nut though.
That really complicates things. You pretty well have to use an indexing head or some method similar to start the second thread at180. I guess the feed in will be twice as fast too. Kind of hard to visualize, but I guess an ordinary twist drill is basically a very elongated double start thread.
I think you can just start at 2 different places on the threading dial with twice the pitch. The threading dial makes sure you start in the same orientation every time, now you just need to start in 2 different orientations. It's really no different
@@gorak9000 Oh, I see. I'll have to try it out. I was thinking there had to be a way that must be built in to the machine to do it. If my old neighbor was still around, I could just ask him.
Some machines can do it by the dial... I used to do them on a Heavy ten years ago... Sadly the Axelson can not do it that way so I have to do it a harder way.
I can't see anything that way. Can't tell if it is aligned or what is going on... The way we did it is pretty easy with the right equipment to move the stock..
@@10swatkins looking forward to seeing you cut the two start thread, I need to do one for my DSG carriage feed worm gear - 12 DP which is close to 2 tpi (1.9). I am interested to see how you approach setting up the helix angle for the cutter. Keep the projects coming! ;-)
The pitch is the issue, the first thread is half the pitch that Steve has cut, the thread which is 180 to the first cuts into the space left by the first cut which makes the part look as though it is 4 tpi when in fact it is 2 x 2 tpi the second thread being started 180 deg from the first. I hope this makes sense why it is a start again moment.
You normally don't see double pitch threads that size being used to move something that heavy or with potentially that much load. Good design from an operator standpoint but not as durable as a single pitch.
It would not have occurred to me that any leadscrew would be multi start. I feel that loads of other people would have made the same mistake especially with your mind been distracted by how to test the fit as well.
Couldn’t you put the shaft through the spindle? Or is the spindle too long. And - ooh, a double thread. Not too hard externally, I’ve done a few. But internally? Never had to do one of these. It’s like Monty Python. You never expect the double nut! Don is very colorful today. Spring must be around the corner.
Ouch! I recall another youtuber a few years ago, who ran up against (and missed initially) a double start thread, but ChrisB257 was dealing with a cheap drill press vise.
For oiling that? Can't you put a hose or tube in to a center area above the nut...and then you would stop it at that location to let oil drip down onto it ...sorta have that similar setup as factory where oil can funnel down to get into the nut??
Can't do anything from the top.... I think we are going to make a short copper tube, fit it with oil pot and after drilling a hole in the far side of the casting, mount it to the far side of the casting. Bend it so it drips directly into the nut's well when the nut is moved to the far left position... Just have to remember to mover it into that position to get positive oiling.. The nut will still have the factory method but also a way to make sure some gets in there...
@@10swatkins i actually meant something that would drip from the Top onto nut..not above it directly. as in a feed above it as there is a table or part that is above it ..i assumed you would come from one side ...
Why don't you try to thread mill it on the cnc mill . It takes a bit of ball scratching but works well you should be able to just your boring bar in the mill . I did some with mach3 and used the wizards . Take a look
@@10swatkins yes just make a bit like you would turn it . The spinning tool has way less tool load . Superb tool Finnish .just creep up on it with tool ware . With a bit of thinking you can remove and try it on the thread and replace it . I made the tailstock barrel thread for my Holbrook 1/2" LH 1.750 long with a Hss tool it opened my eyes .. I hope someone else will chime in to support the idea . And you will save all that material . Bronze used to be cheep now it's like gold
An aluminium or plastic test nut next time, and be sure to offer it up to the thread as a test before you even unpack the next piece of brass/bronze? Don't feel too bad, we have ALL had to swallow down that sick feeling as we realised where we done goofed...🤢🤬
Steve, when you cut any 4-pitch thread on a 16-18" Axelson lathe, you don't need to use the thread dial. You can't screw up. The reason being you have a 4-pitch lead screw on that lathe. I don't remember how many 4-pitch threads we cut over the years, we never looked at that thread dial. Just get her done! Oh, set up a one-inch travel dial on your cross slide. That way you don't have to count how many turns you went. Of course, seven turns is over one inch of travel. Make it a two-inch travel dial. Edit: Spoke too soon! Two-pitch thread, double start. Have fun! Just make a new cross feed screw to match the nut you just made!!! That's what I would do.
Yes I understand that, just old habits of doing everything exactly the same die hard with me... I was counting turns only to keep track of how far I moved the tool away so I could get the shaft in. 2 inches about...
Oh that sinking feeling when something sneaks up on you like that. That's the bad thing about experience... you get the test before you get the lesson.
22:55 Steve, You're a Devil 😈 29:24 Yes Don, We know you're yanking his chain😉😉 Steve, I couldn't fault anyone for missing that double thread, I have only come across it once before inside a machine and I had to show it to my father (a mechanic turned farmer), his first response was "Bulls%$#", but 5 mins later He took me outside and down to the tractor that had the post hole digger on the back and pointed out the two cutter tips on opposing sides, he then went over to the grain auger and it too had the double helix "thread". If you think about it, Both of these machines work better with the double helix, can you imagine a post hole digger with only one cutting edge and "thread", it would drill itself into the ground and stop, which brings me to the obvious as others have stated, a standard wood/metal drill is the same thing in disguise. What I'm wondering now is, how do you cut a double thread in a bronze nut, two cutters on the one bar or two goes with a single point and try to get them the right distance apart??? BTW Can the nut that you now have be re-machined and used on the other shaft in Don's shaper(if it needs it)?
The nut is not salvageable for this machine.... I am thinking of taking it to my shop , melting it down and recasting it for a new nut for my planer head... You have to make two screws inside each other, singlepoint it twice and just start 180 degrees apart ...
Well I’ve learned something today,don took it well?. I would have been …k ,…k …k,not impressed,but that brass nut is a lovely paper weight,thank for the video.
I think you suffer from seeing so much either broken or worn out tools, parts, anything machinable that what may be obvious to a person not in this trade to seeing it as it being your legacy. I know its just metal. Start over again knowing what you know now and use the proper tool to cut said thread or nut.... what ever you're fixing up. I have had a few false starts on engines that are similar as they belong to same engine group but they are different in little ways inside the block.
Steve, Thank you for this valuable lesson, I never knew... We-all (Southern talk) have messed up something, machining. Everybody should kick in a buck to the pot so Mr Don can get his machine back in Business. 👍
You bet!
Steve, I have rarely seen someone more crestfallen than you at the end of the video, you have my sympathy. I have seen spanners and hammers embedded in walls in similar situations and cats run for their lives.
I have calmed down a lot since my younger days :)
Does this mean the sign in Don's shop says...." It's ALL Steve's FAULT !! " 😉
Lol
IF only Don had a sign maker and could spell Fault...
@@10swatkins
Don can spell " Mistake " i think ? 🤔
I feel your pain, but this too will pass. It's the failures that sweeten the successes. Still love your videos and value your time.
Thanks Richard...
I DEFINITELY will watch how you cut an internal, left hand, double lead-in thread. PHEW!
Once I cnc the new nut we will do so...
Most tense video I've every seen! I kept waiting for a misstep. A crash. Eeek! But in the end it was a complete surprise. My father used to say "Into each life some rain must fall." Didn't help much..
I've been dreading screwing up that nut for months... I should have looked at the end as Don did not even know such a thing existed...
Wow. That's crazy, but good information to look out for. At least it's Don's money. ;) Tough lesson to learn, but learning is progress.
Very true!
I feel your pain! And anyone who claims they haven't messed up something similar is a damn liar! Even Adam Booth has claimed the blame a couple of times.
Well I show the good with the bad here.... I think mess ups help others to learn...
Also, you might have to relieve the threading tool below the cutting edge because it might rub in the cut because the thread helix angle will be pretty fast. After you make sure it is not rubbing, make a 1" test nut out of some scrap, split it, blue the threads, and then fit it so you can see how it actually fits and how your thread contact is. Fast and double pitch threads are harder than they initially seem.
The insert is doing fine there... In the video I did thread a cast iron test nut.
At least it was not a machining mistake. "Damaging the LH boring bar" I never machined a multi start thread myself. Would like to see how you going to do it. Can't wait for the video.
Instead of starting at the same place on the threading dial, you start at 2 different places on the threading dial with double the pitch. I think you cut one whole thread first, then come back and cut the other thread inbetween the first one by starting at a different place on the threading dial that gets you 180* from the first start
The Axelson will not allow that... Have to do it the hard way :(
@@10swatkins I'm really curious what "the hard way" is now... also I hope you explain why you can't just pick 2 different numbers on the threading dial on this lathe in the next video too - I'm sure lots of people would be interested in why you can't do it the way you'd first expect
Imagin cutting a double start 2-pitch 1.000 lead thread brass nut 15" long for a 4" OD leadscrew. I've done it! Nerve racking!!!
That is a NUT!
A work mate had to cut a 3/16" double start internal thread for a model steam engine on a Myford Lathe, got it done.
I have seen a four start ACME thread on a steam turbine, governor stop valve.
Good luck on the next one, pity not enough meat to sleeve and silver braze.
Yep not enough meat or I would have sleeved the original one....
Hi Steve, Don, checked my lathe, minimum TPI is 4 tpi, so will not cut 2 tpi, hoping the Axelson will cut 2 tpi.
Takes it to another skill level to cut that thread!!!!
While watching the last vid I thought it looked like a double start thread, glad you confirmed my suspicion :-)
You got it!
oh dear. I've never done one myself. will be nice to see it. poor old Don, I see he needs a new toothbrush as well
Thats Don's idea of a chip brush )
@@10swatkins 🙄
Boy that DRO would be nice right now !
I can manage... Never had a DRO on a lathe and still just use the dials ;)
Ouch! The saga continues! 10 deg F and blizzard here today in eastern ND.
You should be dead and really stiff by now!
I'd there enough metal to bore it out and fit a sleeve. I have fixed a couple of lead screw itself this way. Produced the sleeve from round bar and then loctite it in and added a screw to make sure it doesn't move
Not enough... I would have just sleeved the original nut if I could have....
I put a piece of tape on the cross slide and one on the carriage. A pen mark across tells me where I want to be.for the cut. Now can move that axis anywhere and return.
Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching and the donation! :)
Was this filmed before the cast iron nut was cut? I guess the timing confuses me and I commented that it was likely a 2 start thread on that video.
Anyway, for those interested for a 2 start thread you set the pitch for half the thread (4tpi for a 2 start 8tpi thread) so you're cutting double the lead. Cut on thread to depth, rotate the work 180 and cut the second. Rotating the work can be done by mounting the chuck on an indexing face plate (kind of a mount that attaches to the spindle face and chuck back and can rotate independently from the spindle) or by indexing the chuck 180 after disengaging the gearing to the leadscrew, then re-engaging the gearing. The second method can be kinda tricky.
No, after
Looks like a new definition of “Double Trouble”. On the upside we all learned something. I’ll definately be on the look out for this on my future projects. I wonder if the dials are different for the two screws.
Should not be. it is just a 2 thread per inch with another one cut in between...
Well then ... that sucks. I've heard of, and seen, double start threads.
Throughout this series, you've shown us the original wore out nut a few times ... even zooming in on it to show the wear. Never noticed the dual start threads ..
What I always found odd (even back when you were making the test blocks out of machinst wax) was the 2 holes in the oil resevoir ... it seemed overkill for such an uncontrolled oiler.
I wonder if the two holes line up with each seperate pitch of the two threads?
Thanks for sharing 🇨🇦
No one of the holes is for a screw that held down some filter material.
That job has been fighting you the whole way. I hope your luck changes soon.
Oh it will... Now that I know what we are dealing with...
Can you show us the end of the double start thread, I’d like to see what it looks like from the end of the shaft to actually see the double start. Thanks!
Don took that well, I guess at some point you realize that things happen the wrong way and don’t get all worked up over it. Good way to look at things.
Next video I will
If you have the wall thickness, bore it out and stuff a bronze sleeve in there. Loctite 648 will keep it there.
Don’t tell anyone, but the cross feed nut on my lathe may be done exactly that way 🤣
Not enough wall left to sleeve it.. Same problem with the original nut. Thanks for watching
@@10swatkins thanks for making the videos, Steve! Always appreciated.
very good video Steve
Thanks for the visit
Time to consider over-boring and soft soldering in a threaded sleeve. That could be almost invisible and you get a big joint area for very little effort. A slight taper and you will see it drop down the moment it is ready to flow 😁
There is not enough meet left in the nut to sleeve it.. That nut moves a really big and heavy table and vice not to mention the work piece...
Might be easier to make a new LH single thread shaft to fit the nut than the very difficult double 2 tpi with no accurate gage to check it. Hang Dons double shaft on the wall with the sign “Steve’s Fault”.
HEll NO :) I have the shaft itself to gauge the nut by... Just like I did in the video...
@@10swatkins (:-))) Love that reply which shows your determination to finish Dons project “come hell or high water” as Biden says.
That’s a tough pill to swallow Steve. Looking forward to see how you cut the double thread. Good wishes from Round Rock.
Thank you
I've read about these but never done one. Will be interesting to see how it's done. Also, even mistake is a learning opportunity.
On this Axelson I will use a dial indicator to move the second thread into position as it can't be done with the threading dial as other lathes I have had could...
@@10swatkins Either the nut or the lead screw must be indexed exactly 180 degrees for the second thread.
@@ellieprice363 thats not true. You use the compound to index from the first thread to the second.
@@Jeremy-iv9bc Yes that would also work as long as the compound is moved exactly the correct distance. In this case the tool must be advanced .250 to machine the second thread.
As I always say: "If you can't oil the nut, oil the screw." I wish I knew anything about the subject. Ron W4BIN
The problem with this machine is all of that is always hidden. I am thinking of a way to make oiling it easy... I have a new plan :)
Definitely would of caught me with that. Would like to know how you determine how many starts are on a shaft.
Look at the end of the shaft and count the starting threads. A milk jug is an example. They are at least a double start thread.
There are also 2, 3,4, and so on depending on how big the screw is....
Can you 3D print a short test bar that matches the original...?
Nothing that would approach the precession of the thread...
Yep this is why I make a test piece for every thing expensive out of a 2$ piece of whatever soon as ya think you got this life throws you a curve ball everytime
I did make a test nut out of the scrap cast iron ...Fit the other shaft perfectly Just missed the double start :(
@@10swatkins I made the same mistake remaking a radial arm lift head nut it was a painful lesson 200$ worth of bronze 1200$ part just tuned to 8$ in bronze with a quickness
So Sorry Bro, Blindsided. I Was Rite There LOL.
It's all Dons Fault :)
Glad u show the uck ups ,makes us feel better sir. Will u be removing the lead screw from the bracket for mk2
Its way to hard to remove the lead screw, there are shifting forks and sliding gear mechanisms inside. Would take hours and I would have to disassemble the entire thing.
@@donmadere4237 shame , Steve's right still your fault though 😉.
Hi Steve and Don is there enough meat in the nut to bore it out over size and fit a pres fit bush with the thread in it. would be much cheaper and quicker than starting over with the whole block
Not enough there to stand up to the forces... I was going to do that to the cast iron nut but it is just not enought.. I have a new plan for that scraped nut though.
@@10swatkins That's a shame look forward to seeing what you plan for the scrap block. say hi to Don Best Regards
The thread grimlins bite you in the behind.
You got a thumbs up for the comment about Pakistan, thanks for the laugh
Thanks! :)
That really complicates things. You pretty well have to use an indexing head or some method similar to start the second thread at180. I guess the feed in will be twice as fast too. Kind of hard to visualize, but I guess an ordinary twist drill is basically a very elongated double start thread.
I think you can just start at 2 different places on the threading dial with twice the pitch. The threading dial makes sure you start in the same orientation every time, now you just need to start in 2 different orientations. It's really no different
@@gorak9000 Oh, I see. I'll have to try it out. I was thinking there had to be a way that must be built in to the machine to do it. If my old neighbor was still around, I could just ask him.
Some machines can do it by the dial... I used to do them on a Heavy ten years ago... Sadly the Axelson can not do it that way so I have to do it a harder way.
NO head needed... There are several ways to do it with just the head...
@@10swatkins I'm going to try it on my lathe, just using the dial to see what happens.
Could you have test fitted through the spindle from the back instead of taking the tailstock off?
I can't see anything that way. Can't tell if it is aligned or what is going on... The way we did it is pretty easy with the right equipment to move the stock..
@@10swatkins looking forward to seeing you cut the two start thread, I need to do one for my DSG carriage feed worm gear - 12 DP which is close to 2 tpi (1.9). I am interested to see how you approach setting up the helix angle for the cutter. Keep the projects coming! ;-)
I am asking because I don't know. Can't you setup the 180 degree offset and cut in the nut you are working on?
The pitch is the issue, the first thread is half the pitch that Steve has cut, the thread which is 180 to the first cuts into the space left by the first cut which makes the part look as though it is 4 tpi when in fact it is 2 x 2 tpi the second thread being started 180 deg from the first. I hope this makes sense why it is a start again moment.
@@tda2806 Do you mean that he should have first cut 2 tpi instead of 4 tpi and then indexed 180 and cut another 2 tpi ? Thank you. John
@@johnwilleford7715 👍
TDA had a good answer for you..
OOPS, I feel your pain with that double start thread. You can see the two starts at the end of the shaft but harder to see on a finished thread.
You normally don't see double pitch threads that size being used to move something that heavy or with potentially that much load. Good design from an operator standpoint but not as durable as a single pitch.
Might be why the original nut was so destroyed...
The plastic wasn't such a bad idea after all
It would not have occurred to me that any leadscrew would be multi start. I feel that loads of other people would have made the same mistake especially with your mind been distracted by how to test the fit as well.
I just never even looked at that end :(
Couldn’t you put the shaft through the spindle? Or is the spindle too long. And - ooh, a double thread. Not too hard externally, I’ve done a few. But internally? Never had to do one of these. It’s like Monty Python. You never expect the double nut! Don is very colorful today. Spring must be around the corner.
The way I do it with a left hand bar makes it easy to machine the internal nut.. Just have to remember to reverse the drive ;)
Ouch! I recall another youtuber a few years ago, who ran up against (and missed initially) a double start thread, but ChrisB257 was dealing with a cheap drill press vise.
I should have looked myself..
I wonder if keith rucker has a double start tap that size in his collection of tooling. Exactly what size is it. I can ask
Thanks for the offer... I think its a non standard thread size and will have to be tuned to fit..
It’s roughly a 1 1/4x 4 but each thread is 2 threads per inch.
For oiling that? Can't you put a hose or tube in to a center area above the nut...and then you would stop it at that location to let oil drip down onto it ...sorta have that similar setup as factory where oil can funnel down to get into the nut??
Can't do anything from the top.... I think we are going to make a short copper tube, fit it with oil pot and after drilling a hole in the far side of the casting, mount it to the far side of the casting. Bend it so it drips directly into the nut's well when the nut is moved to the far left position... Just have to remember to mover it into that position to get positive oiling.. The nut will still have the factory method but also a way to make sure some gets in there...
@@10swatkins
Ok..will await your video on that ? if you do one..😉
@@10swatkins
i actually meant something that would drip from the Top onto nut..not above it directly. as in a feed above it as there is a table or part that is above it ..i assumed you would come from one side ...
They say we learn more from our screw ups. That doesn’t make it any easier.
Well at least Don now knows what a multi start thread is :)
Why don't you try to thread mill it on the cnc mill . It takes a bit of ball scratching but works well you should be able to just your boring bar in the mill . I did some with mach3 and used the wizards . Take a look
This is three inches deep and a precession fit....
@@10swatkins yes just make a bit like you would turn it . The spinning tool has way less tool load . Superb tool Finnish .just creep up on it with tool ware . With a bit of thinking you can remove and try it on the thread and replace it . I made the tailstock barrel thread for my Holbrook 1/2" LH 1.750 long with a Hss tool it opened my eyes .. I hope someone else will chime in to support the idea . And you will save all that material . Bronze used to be cheep now it's like gold
Bore it out and sleeve it than retread outside is correct ?
Too thin of a wall left on the nut....
Can't you do a double start by rotating nut 180 degrees and start the second cut cut to depth it should work. Been 40 yrs since I did any.
Nope as each thread is it’s own path. It’s two separate 2 threads per inch one inside the other.
An aluminium or plastic test nut next time, and be sure to offer it up to the thread as a test before you even unpack the next piece of brass/bronze? Don't feel too bad, we have ALL had to swallow down that sick feeling as we realised where we done goofed...🤢🤬
Did you see the whole video ? there were two text nuts and two machine ways nuts there...
Steve, when you cut any 4-pitch thread on a 16-18" Axelson lathe, you don't need to use the thread dial. You can't screw up. The reason being you have a 4-pitch lead screw on that lathe. I don't remember how many 4-pitch threads we cut over the years, we never looked at that thread dial. Just get her done! Oh, set up a one-inch travel dial on your cross slide. That way you don't have to count how many turns you went. Of course, seven turns is over one inch of travel. Make it a two-inch travel dial.
Edit: Spoke too soon! Two-pitch thread, double start. Have fun! Just make a new cross feed screw to match the nut you just made!!! That's what I would do.
Yes I understand that, just old habits of doing everything exactly the same die hard with me...
I was counting turns only to keep track of how far I moved the tool away so I could get the shaft in. 2 inches about...
@@10swatkins Cool!
so that means it is 2tpi then????????
Yes two separate 2 threads per inch
Oh that sinking feeling when something sneaks up on you like that. That's the bad thing about experience... you get the test before you get the lesson.
Yes Sir it did suck....
Don, don't you get tired of the nagging you get from Steve???😁
Naw most of the time we’re just messing with each other!
@@donmadere4237 That's cool! Thanks, Ken
HEY! HE starts it! :)
@@10swatkins LOl!🤣
Bore it out silver solder a new piece in .. use 50% silver solder . Chin up boys .
Too little wall left...
22:55 Steve, You're a Devil 😈
29:24 Yes Don, We know you're yanking his chain😉😉
Steve, I couldn't fault anyone for missing that double thread, I have only come across it once before inside a machine and I had to show it to my father (a mechanic turned farmer), his first response was "Bulls%$#", but 5 mins later He took me outside and down to the tractor that had the post hole digger on the back and pointed out the two cutter tips on opposing sides, he then went over to the grain auger and it too had the double helix "thread".
If you think about it, Both of these machines work better with the double helix, can you imagine a post hole digger with only one cutting edge and "thread", it would drill itself into the ground and stop, which brings me to the obvious as others have stated, a standard wood/metal drill is the same thing in disguise.
What I'm wondering now is, how do you cut a double thread in a bronze nut, two cutters on the one bar or two goes with a single point and try to get them the right distance apart???
BTW Can the nut that you now have be re-machined and used on the other shaft in Don's shaper(if it needs it)?
The nut is not salvageable for this machine.... I am thinking of taking it to my shop , melting it down and recasting it for a new nut for my planer head... You have to make two screws inside each other, singlepoint it twice and just start 180 degrees apart ...
@@10swatkins Thanks for the explanation Steve, I look forward to the videos of you doing both.
Bummer!
Thought you would’ve spotted that doooooon,,,,it’s all your fault 😅😂😂
Yep :)
@@10swatkins thanks from wales uk Steve and doooooon
Steve Don has not done his homework. Give him hell.
You can come help and we will make it 50! :)
Well I’ve learned something today,don took it well?. I would have been …k ,…k …k,not impressed,but that brass nut is a lovely paper weight,thank for the video.
He was semi ok.... He kept saying it was ok to screw it up for months but it still hurt....
I think you suffer from seeing so much either broken or worn out tools, parts, anything machinable that what may be obvious to a person not in this trade to seeing it as it being your legacy. I know its just metal. Start over again knowing what you know now and use the proper tool to cut said thread or nut.... what ever you're fixing up. I have had a few false starts on engines that are similar as they belong to same engine group but they are different in little ways inside the block.
Yep I do see a lot of torn up machines... I should have looked at it more closely..