These tools are from the 1800s originally. Better quality ones have a parallel space in there and are meant to be used with a block of wood held tightly in the slot to prevent too much flex and breakage. I’ve been having trouble finding grinding wheel arbors, spacers or whatever someone wants to call them. My machine supposedly uses the American standard taper arbor of 1:4 taper, one inch larger end. But it’s slightly bigger on the end than that. I found some nice HHIP’s for that American standard with balancing weights. But I had to enlarge the tapers for all three I bought. Now they’re fine. But I paid about $60 each, for the three. But now prices suddenly went to $95 to $145 everywhere. Even HHIP has them for $132. These are made in Taiwan and are nicely made, so since they were pretty cheap I shouldn’t complain. But when prices are low and suddenly jump about twice, I get annoyed. A way to get that part straight is to have a part made up to put in a chuck with a large flat face on it. What I put the part in the chuck just tight enough so it won’t fall out, bring the flat against the part so it straightens it out, then tighten the chuck while holding the part against the flat. Your hub looks to have the groove in the back for balancing weights. Someone must have removed them.
At 30:30, you can reduce the tool/bit stickout by 1/2" or more and still not risk crashing the main holder to reduce some of the chatter. At 33:40, your shorter tool holder is a good move as well....How about both?! .... Thanks for making this video!
The chips out of the outer surface of the wheel are going to throw your balance off. But you knew that. Bobs feet. Is Bob against an outside wall that is dirt or grass on the outside. Rain causes the ground to swell. Lifting the edge of your slab . I chased the level of a storm Vulcan block master almost daily till I saw rain water running down into inside of the block wall across the floor and thru a crack. I was forbidden from going on the roof. But I took a ladder and went up the wall and swept then poured out gallon of white roof coating and swept that around. Got it. As white coating dripped down the inside wall. I then used some custom plug cement to fill the crack. I keep thinking of another yt channel that the guy oils his grinder balancer bearings. His wheels kick back as they come to a stop. Do to the tsunami of oil pushed by the balls in the bearings pushing back and slowing down the free rotation. Vibration thru bobs turret. Perhaps an adjustable compression on rubber flanges on a ring weight on the opposite tool position. To dampen the harmonics. When facing do you lock the saddle so it does not slide.
Hey Steve, I really like your show. I'm wondering, about that tool for your big ole planer, I assume it's HSS? Why does it have that wang behind the cutting edge, seems like that would be another source of vibration? Or does it somehow cancel out some vibrations? It's not strictly clearance is it?
I think its intended to make the cutting edge more of a positive cutting angle and IF you could take deeper cuts with it, it could curl the chips to help it break... That is HSS and the gooseneck somehow "preloads" the blade.... Thanks for watching...
Well, of course its all his fault! HE is ok,, just been really busy with all the problems caused by the Hurricane. We are collaborating on building a few things and he will be around...
At 45:45, the TradeMark is trying to balance at 5-oclock, at 46:20, the TM is trying to balance at 7-oclock, at 46:45, the TM is at 1-oclock, at 47:15, the TM is at 9-oclock....You are not getting repeating results, something is bent, warped, or high friction in the base wheel assembly...This balancing rig should show the current imbalance repeatably every time you move/touch the wheel, it does not...
im well before last yeey but because your first and think its important for people to know that you win a free choclate cake you can go pick it up at the local bakery just explain you where first to reply on a youtube post of steve watkins
It's about time I gave you a comment for TH-cam's algorithm, so this is it: the weather is beautiful outside. Hope that helps!
Thanks for that!
These tools are from the 1800s originally. Better quality ones have a parallel space in there and are meant to be used with a block of wood held tightly in the slot to prevent too much flex and breakage. I’ve been having trouble finding grinding wheel arbors, spacers or whatever someone wants to call them. My machine supposedly uses the American standard taper arbor of 1:4 taper, one inch larger end. But it’s slightly bigger on the end than that. I found some nice HHIP’s for that American standard with balancing weights. But I had to enlarge the tapers for all three I bought. Now they’re fine. But I paid about $60 each, for the three. But now prices suddenly went to $95 to $145 everywhere. Even HHIP has them for $132. These are made in Taiwan and are nicely made, so since they were pretty cheap I shouldn’t complain. But when prices are low and suddenly jump about twice, I get annoyed. A way to get that part straight is to have a part made up to put in a chuck with a large flat face on it. What I put the part in the chuck just tight enough so it won’t fall out, bring the flat against the part so it straightens it out, then tighten the chuck while holding the part against the flat. Your hub looks to have the groove in the back for balancing weights. Someone must have removed them.
No weights on this hub.. It's a cool grind hub and has coolant holes around the entire hub....
@@10swatkins I’d rather give up the coolant holes for balancing weights and just do what everyone else does and spray coolent to the work.
That piece had a hard spot on the circumference. I could hear it and see the difference in the finish.
Great video as always Steve 👍👍
Olá amigo Steve,acompanhando seus trabalhos como sempre pra mim bastante interessante e informativo!!!
Abraço e boa sorte sempre!!!
Very nice work sir
So nice of you
At 30:30, you can reduce the tool/bit stickout by 1/2" or more and still not risk crashing the main holder to reduce some of the chatter. At 33:40, your shorter tool holder is a good move as well....How about both?! .... Thanks for making this video!
Nice video thanks!
Glad you liked it!
Nut fix: cast new threads to the shaft using cerrosafe or ecuivalent.
Have you ever tried McMaster-Carr for your machine tools? They ship pretty fast...............
I have an account but there are two good supply companies that are close and a little cheaper....
Well I'm a grumpy old man and I can't understand anything you're saying but great video
The chips out of the outer surface of the wheel are going to throw your balance off. But you knew that.
Bobs feet. Is Bob against an outside wall that is dirt or grass on the outside. Rain causes the ground to swell. Lifting the edge of your slab . I chased the level of a storm Vulcan block master almost daily till I saw rain water running down into inside of the block wall across the floor and thru a crack. I was forbidden from going on the roof. But I took a ladder and went up the wall and swept then poured out gallon of white roof coating and swept that around. Got it. As white coating dripped down the inside wall. I then used some custom plug cement to fill the crack.
I keep thinking of another yt channel that the guy oils his grinder balancer bearings. His wheels kick back as they come to a stop. Do to the tsunami of oil pushed by the balls in the bearings pushing back and slowing down the free rotation.
Vibration thru bobs turret. Perhaps an adjustable compression on rubber flanges on a ring weight on the opposite tool position. To dampen the harmonics.
When facing do you lock the saddle so it does not slide.
Hey Steve, I really like your show. I'm wondering, about that tool for your big ole planer, I assume it's HSS? Why does it have that wang behind the cutting edge, seems like that would be another source of vibration? Or does it somehow cancel out some vibrations? It's not strictly clearance is it?
I think its intended to make the cutting edge more of a positive cutting angle and IF you could take deeper cuts with it, it could curl the chips to help it break... That is HSS and the gooseneck somehow "preloads" the blade.... Thanks for watching...
Is possibly just fatigue after years and years of flexing it cracked and broke 😢
how's Don? haven't seen him in a while.
Well, of course its all his fault! HE is ok,, just been really busy with all the problems caused by the Hurricane. We are collaborating on building a few things and he will be around...
I've seen a couple. That was them in that picture. I have no clue what happen to them. 🤔🤔
Ok, I'll bite... What the heck are you talking about???
@@10swatkins I'm the one that sent you those goose neck tools originally. Wish I had more of them but I don't.
@@4GSR Ok,, You said I seen a Couple, instead of I sent a Couple..... I though you were loosing it :)
@@10swatkins I am! Lol!!!
Hello Steve from Nacogdoches. Another great video.
Glad you enjoyed it
At 45:45, the TradeMark is trying to balance at 5-oclock, at 46:20, the TM is trying to balance at 7-oclock, at 46:45, the TM is at 1-oclock, at 47:15, the TM is at 9-oclock....You are not getting repeating results, something is bent, warped, or high friction in the base wheel assembly...This balancing rig should show the current imbalance repeatably every time you move/touch the wheel, it does not...
first!
im well before last yeey but because your first and think its important for people to know that you win a free choclate cake you can go pick it up at the local bakery just explain you where first to reply on a youtube post of steve watkins
@@cornnatron3030 Useless comment.
@@bernardwill7196 just like yours welkom to the club
@@cornnatron3030,😂
@@cornnatron3030 why's it got to be like that between us? We are all here for machining goodness!