Hey everyone! Apparently some folks have trouble accessing the drawings. I’ve had multiple friends test them and they work for all of us so all I can say is try again. I cannot provide free tech support for all of you, I’m sorry. These are free drawings, keep in mind. I did my best to make them available to you, and hosting them costs me money. Please keep that in mind when setting your expectations of customer service.
I tried downloading the drawings without actual intent to use them and it worked fine! Perhaps OneDrive senses your intent and selectively corrupts downloads from those who need them most?
I once worked with, what I will call one of the best manual lathe guys I have seen. When he ran into a problem similar to yours turning a long thin part. What he did to damp the vibration/chatter. Was to take his ballpeen hammer and hook it over the top of the stock. Than he could pull back a little or what was required to kill the vibration. The combination of the weight of the hammer and his feel on the handle worked quite well. This would also be a little safer than pinching with your fingers. Never the less you got a good result with what is usually a very difficult turning setup no mater how you do it. O just food for thought if you do make a follow rest. You might want to consider this. The normal rest is usually designed for right hand turning. In other words the stock will lift when being turned. So you will notice the jaw is on the top. If you make it for left hand turning like in this video, you might consider the jaw being on the bottom.
@@Blondihacks Great video Quinn!! Building on what Peter said, I'd try to utilize the t-slot that is in front of tool and make a block that has a spring loaded bearing to act as a follow rest. My saddle doesn't have keyways in it, but I bolted a plate where the follow rest attaches to my saddle. Can't wait for the next video!! 🥰
Yes, normal steadyrest would not have worked for reverse rotation. You can make a bidirectional follower that fits in the teeslots, just adjust it in as needed.
Hi Quinn, love watching you work and your sillyness. I was watching your 4 jaw chuck tricks and I wanted to share this with you and your viewers. About 30 years ago I worked with an 80 year old WWII vet. He was hands down one of the 3 greatest tool makers I ever knew. When he set up a 4 jaw chuck, he used 2 keys. He would use them on the jaws across from one another. Once he had a bit of clamping pressure on the part he would turn both keys at the same time in the same direction to move the part back and forth until he dialed it in. Then he would do the same on the other jaws. I never saw him use a 3 jaw and after I did this a few times I never did either. I hope this is a helpful little trick. Blake
Amazing work as usual, Quinn. The makeshift follow rest idea was pure brilliance. Wouldn't have come up with that myself in a million years. I suspect I might have to borrow the idea at some point.
30 years ago when I was in community college machine shop this was the second thing I made. It was a little different, but the function was the same. Man how time flies... Nice work, and thanks for the memories!
Hi Quinn, Nice Acme thread cutting and I applaud your way of working through unseen problems. I once had to cut several 1 1/8" X 4 TPI internal square thread bushings to be pressed into 25 lb. barbell weights that were used on a antique telescope where the declination axis shaft was threaded 1 1/8" x 4. That was done on my 7 X 12 mini-lathe with a hand crank in the spindle. I made a silicon mold of a portion of the declination axis and then used low melting point casting metal to make a positive for a thread gauge. I was difficult on the small lathe, but did get it done and the barbells worked great as counterweights for the telescope. Once the point of balance was found, you snugged up the counterweights against each other and that held their position. You and the family stay safe.
Quinn, Thank you for your kind words. I hope to get better at videos; however as of now I struggle. I really hope to put together some sort of video to be a digital “User Manual” showing all the uses of the Rose-Index. “Referencing, Rotating, Shifting and Flipping …. Plus the fact that it’s “Removable” really adds to the flexibility and ease of use. The Rose-Index really makes referencing and manipulating round parts easy. In your situation you mentioned not preplanning the use of a Rose-Index. You would have been fine by simply attaching it when you needed to reposition your work piece with a machinist square. Then you could remove it if you prefer. Even if you were to remove the work piece from your centering fixture you could have went to a flat surface and put a Rose-Index on and use your pin in the hole with gage blocks or similar on both sides of your work piece to get the pin parallel to the flat surface……Tighten the setscrew and you regained a reference. I goof up occasionally pulling a work piece out of a vise before I’m finished. Very rarely does it add more than a couple minutes to make or regain a reference by not preplanning or simply goofing up. Sincere Thanks and Best Wishes, Timm, Carl, and Anton Rosenthal
Bought two Rose Indexes the small one will be much used on models. Your casual mentions are golden! I keep a pen and paper handy while I watch your videos, jotting down those references, and then check them out a bit later. Thank you!
I love your channel. Regarding parting while using a tailstock center...I'm sure you've seen the Cutting Edge Engineering channel. Kurtis the machinist repair large excavating equipment. This include very large hydraulic cylinders. He cuts off the ends and welds in a new cylinder. To cut the ends he uses tail stock support and cuts through the existing welds until smoke appears indicating he has "almost" reached the inside of the cylinder. He then removes the structure and smacks the end with a hammer. Keep in mind that the rotating pieces are brought to the machine with an overhead crane (they are large and heavy). Pretty interesting to watch.
I made one of these based on Mr. Pete’s design. Its been on my drill press ever since. I love it so much I ceremoniously discard the old drill press vice.
seeing this reminds me of trying to cut an acme thread at sea with the lathe twisting and needing to try to counter that as much as we could. Only to get the part done and find that I the MR3 and the MR1 both missed that it was reverse acme!!
Love the indicator tip for getting an exact length. I'm 100% the target audience for that, Got my lathe (crappy little import, but it's good to learn on) setup in the last two weeks and I'm just barely getting started working with it. Mostly just making upgrades to deal with it's deficiencies right now, but that's how I prefer it. You never learn how things work in depth if they work perfect the first time. Gotta have something break, or suck, and then scratch your head about how to fix it.
With making acme thread and nut thingies; I always cheat in 2 ways : 1. I make the thread way thicker than it needs to be (more rigid and easier in the lathe). 2. I always make them about 5 to 10 cm longer than I need them to be; I cut that off, do some milling on it and heat-treat it (I use mostly tool steels) and tadaaaa, got a matching tap :D ...
Some of my favorite parts of your videos is one, your sense of humor but even more so you are not afraid of mistakes and use them as a teaching moment that we can all learn from - thank you and keep up the good work ( and some of the bad work )
Quinn, I understand your issues with the follow rest. My tool post can move enough to position it where I want it so it aligns with the follow rest. It wouldn't be too hard to build an adjustable follow rest that would mount on the T-slots on the cross slide. However you would have to leave your cross slide locked the whole time. HOWEVER, the follow rest is designed to hold against forces created by cutting in FORWARD! By cutting in reverse you will need to build a follow rest support that supports the back and BOTTOM of the work. I will look forward to seeing what you come up with! Keep up the good work.
From an experienced engin builder and tested point of view. All loud engins do is call cops and reduce low end torque in an engine. There seems to be a plague of them these days. Nice job on the threads. Used a block of wood to stop chatter once or twice myself.
One of these days I either need to get someone to make me a 3/4" 2TPI-LH double start ACME tap or make one myself to repair my father's old Artisian lathe. I'm not sure his little craftsman lathe would be up to the task. I think about this project every time I wach one of these wonderful videos on cutting ACME threads... **Thanks Artisan for putting a non-standard unusual 3/4" 2TPI-LH double start ACME on the lathe carriage power feed.** ** use of Sarcasterisk
Once again, not a machinist and never will be, but your creativity and sense of humor are a bright spot in my week. Every week I laugh out loud at least once.. Thank you!
I had a project that required acme threads internal as well as external on some 2” parts. Being so novice that I could barely spell lathe, I practiced on some 2” pvc until I was confident that I could do it. Turned out great and made me feel pretty good about teaching myself machining processes. Love your videos!!!❤
Hi Quinn, as one of your viewers who never touched a machine tool in real life but is mentally preparing to do so one day I want to say how awsome you are. Also I want to suggest a topic for a video: How to read drawings? You show them in your builds and it is somehow clear that the information is in there but it looks superficially like a mess of lines and numbers.
I have actually touched a couple of machine tools, but touch is about the extent of it, I've never actually used any - but other than that, I'm in exactly the same boat as you. I'm waiting to move house somewhere with the space required for a small machine shop and Quinn's videos have been fantastic for me learning in advance! Help reading drawings would definitely help me too!
I use a drill press vice in my spray booth to hold a guitar holding setup when finishing. It's crap tolerances mean it doesn't get messed up by overspray, the rough textured jaws mean it holds the jig very solid, and the cheap price means I can replace it easily when it gets so gross I can keep using it. So, you know a second use for them does exist!
Yes, you *can* buy acme threaded bar, but generally not in fine pitch. I recently needed two lengths of metric trapezoidal (30 degree angle) 18x2, and it's not readily available unless you are prepared to spend big $$. Making your own is great fun, and I had exactly the same problems with chatter. Interestingly I came up with almost the same solution to solve it ;-)
Love your channel - keep up the good work! I'm a qualified Fitter & Turner in Australia but changed professions after 15 years and I haven't been "on the tools" for over 20 years. We were always told that ACME threads were used in precision machines as they would self-centre with no backlash, and self-adjust for wear when using half nuts or adjustable nuts.
The only thing I would add to the "how to get something to exact length in the lathe" bit, for beginners, be careful touching off your tool to the end of your stock. If your stock is on the softer end the insert on the tool can sink right into it a good like 5-10 thou without you even really noticing because there's not much resistance. I generally use a 20 thou feeler gauge between the stock and the edge of the tool for things like aluminum/brass to get a known start point. Nothing worse than thinking you cut something perfect and it's actually nearly 10 thou undersized.
Very nice parts. I really like how you didn't cut out or ignore your failures to plan ahead. It seems like every one of my projects has several of those moments.
I watch a lot of machining videos here on TH-cam, and I must say that is nice to see the Ladies represented. I hope that doesn't sound sexist. Please keep up the excellent work!
You always do all the coolest projects. I remember when MrPete made the float lock vise and I was all enthused with it and was going to build one. Then I looked at what I have and it does the job very well and I just never did build one. If you get tired of being a programmer you can always get a job as shop foreman in a machine shop, maybe work for Tom Lipton. Keep on keeping on.
Great video. Thanks for showing using the gage to find the length. I'm probably the only one on here that this helped but as very new to machining I learn a lot from tips like this.
I know this comment will get lost, but here I go anyway! I have worked for a thread shop for almost 20 years. I have had good luck letting the chatter go, and on the last pass...speeding it up and it takes out the previous harmonics without letting the new ones develop. (that's the best way I can explain it)
I have a similar problem deburring holes when making fingerholes on bagpipe chanters - my solution is designed for fingers: take a finger sized rod, wrap abrasive around it, and run it longways over the hole at 90 degrees to the part.
another thing you can do, if your having trouble with follower rests and clearance issues with tool post positions, is to hold the tool in boring bars which can accept the tool shank your using. Then coming up with some funky tool post angle to get what you need. Your going to lose some tool rigidity but it can work out. Usually just use a bar with a slot milled in the very end with some screws to hold it in place.
I made a version of this project, adapting it to what I had on hand, which included the acme threaded rod and nut from an old Toyota scissor jack. You inspired me though, and next time I do a project with an acme thread I'll cut it myself. Thanks for making these informative and entertaining videos.
Quinn, I love your show. I appreciate your knowledge !!! You come up with some real good solutions, and they work well !!! Give this a shot: I have been a tool designer/builder for over half a century. As I watched, and you talking about what you needed, an idea came to me. Sometime when you're needing another project, build this one and add it to your tools. Make a shoe to fit above the top of the tool-post you're using. Instead of using the standard allen set-screws to clamp your cutting tool in place, use longer all-thread screws. Set the shoe on top of the tool-post and use nuts on those all-threads to secure the shoe onto the tool-post. Build it so you have a swing-away upright, (hinged so the whole rig will lift off the work when not needed, just by pulling down the handle, like a slap, if needed, in case something happens, ie. Murphies Law #1, "If something Can go wrong, it will, and at the most inappropriate time!) Then build something that is (similar to a bench vice operation), a square hole with a threaded hole above or below it (you choose which). ((It only need 3" travel)) You want to be able to move a carrier that will have a clamp screw that tightens to the square bar running thru the vertical shoe-piece. This bar will extend to the back side of your work and have an adjustable up/dn square bar that your two follow bearings are running on.
That was great, very educational! I just got done cleaning my new MX 210 v lathe, waiting on Amazon to bring a few things. I did did make a washer/shim for the stock tool post tool holder so that was cool. Thanks for all you do!
I just realized that the follow rest is designed to support work when the lathe is running forwards. Since pressure on the toolbit will normally push the work up, the follow rest has a finger to hold the work down. So a follow rest with a finger underneath the work would maybe be a good project, I've never seen one for sale (that I know. Now I know to look for it :) )
You are an inspiration and make incredibly enjoyable parts and videos. I wish for you good health and all of the success you desire. Thank You and have a great day.
chamfering an OD: Use an end mill (ball nose, if you want to avoid another setup) with a diameter close to the size of the OD you're chamfering on, and you just take the nose across the hole, and you should get pretty close to a nice chamfer.
I did something similar on my mini lathe. I machined a notch into a brass rod about a half inch in diameter and with my cross slide being slotted I used another tool holder on the backside to hold my rod in place. It’s only in one dimension but it worked really well maybe think about using a piece of material with tee slots and tap a couple holes into the backside of your cross slide
I'll offer solution to your follow rest mounting quandary. The restrictions to a top mount are many. Commercially speaking, the normal patterns are mounted to the side of the cross-slide, or carriage underneath. For starters and with any luck at all, your gib screws are on the operators right side. Instead of depending on large screws (and requisite deeper holes), work 1/4" or 5/16" into the design, dowel pins for location and secure additional shear strength. Depending on available travel, the slip fit could be in frame of follow rest, leaving dowels retained in the mounting side. That COULD include studs on that side as well, far better then SHCS.
The thread looks great, it must have been so satisfying! Clever recovery for the traveling rest problem too. There is so much of value to remember from each of your videos! I made a square thread tool out of a round piece of stock that was held in a hole in square stock with a grub screw so I could adjust the angle to suit the thread. Not my idea, copied from a fellow model engineer. The tool cut the thread, then broke on a spring pass while making the tap. Good enough but still a shame as I'm pretty sure the dims were not quite right (mine never are) so I probably wouldn't be able to cut a matching thread again.
I find that milling a small flat before cross drilling works wonders for easy drilling and chamfering. Of course it's extra steps and 180 rotation if you want to do both sides.
I really like your new wording asking for patreon support. I find your videos very relaxing but the 'throw a little love' line at the end used to scratch my surface.
Quinn. When you run the lathe backwards the rest point on the top of the rest must be on the underside I think. The material is pushed down. Like your videos. THX
Fantastic work as always Quinn, I to have never cut an acme thread you ingenuity for steady rest was brilliant. Thanks for the link to the rose index what a great idea. Thanks so much for sharing Cheers.
I have those plans too,waiting to finish restoring my lathe. Be nice to see your build! I bought acme thread since I have the tap,yea the easy way out,but I need 2 of these in a bad way. Great video.
I have two vices like that, although they appear to be slightly less heavy duty. For me, they work perfect. Although, what I have them do is clamp on to the edge of my 3/4" desk with a few angle brackets fit to hold a plank of plywood my throttle and flight stick are attached to. Mine even have a quick open button, but it doesn't work if there's any pressure on it, so I still have to twist the handle and loosen it first. As fuggly as they look, they work, and I'm kinda proud I made the pair of them for half of what a single mount would have cost me.
I enjoy the treatis that you provide in your videos. Your approach is different and probably better than any other TH-camr. You are also very consistent in quality and quantity of yoru vids. Paul (Patreon)
As an apprentice, had to cut a quad start acme, and fit to existing nut. No clue what I was doing, but managed to get it done. Discovered later, that was the pass or fail, to continue training.....sheesh.
I just got a traveling rest and like yours it touches the material quite a ways from where the cut is happening. I don't understand why they are designed that way. It seems like being able to modify it so it can be adjusted fore/aft with a similar mechanism to a tailstock offset, would be helpful.
Quinn, your squeeze bottle for the cutting fluid would be more fun if it was red and labeled with the word "ketchup" as wells a local diners name/logo screen printed onto it.
When I hear an annoying car, truck, or whatever, I just say "Wow, I wish I was cool." But of course, all of us cool kids use sarcasm. Well done as usual. Another neat project has begun. Yay! Thanks, and Meow to Sprocket.
Whenever some clown drives by in his lifted truck with a hole drilled in the muffler revving it at the stoplight and thinking he’s a stud, I always say “damn dude, save some bitches for the rest of us”
@Mark Fergerson I had one of those trucks in my teen years, 67 Chevy PU with a built 327ci 3" dual exhaust blown out cherry bombs that exited just behind the cab and body to be just legal, was very fast stoplight to stoplight but the truck 4spd would top out at about 90. Load the cylinders with fuel one good rev and hit the spark button and fire shoots from both sides. That truck was fun.
Hi Quinn, could you make an attachment to bridge the cross slide by attaching it to the saddle and put some reamed holes along the bridge to give multiple positions. Great video by the way Quinn.👍👍
0:43 well, we use similar vise to this one on our threading machine, it has it´s jaws screwed into place, we have few prismas milled into them.... it´s pretty usefull I work on MASTURN MT50 (500 max diameter (380 over support), 800mm between centers), I enjoy turning big stuff but hate doing small stuf.... But I enjoy watching small parts (for me haha) being made on these little machines, you gotta be more creative than me sometimes just to solve problems that I didn´t even think about.... Great work Quinn, greetings from Slovakia, I´ve enjoyed the whole video :)
Hey everyone! Apparently some folks have trouble accessing the drawings. I’ve had multiple friends test them and they work for all of us so all I can say is try again. I cannot provide free tech support for all of you, I’m sorry. These are free drawings, keep in mind. I did my best to make them available to you, and hosting them costs me money. Please keep that in mind when setting your expectations of customer service.
Worked for me! Thanks Quinn!
"DO NOT SCALE. IF IN DOUBT, ASK" -- i.e. the download worked fine for me! Thanks, Quinn!
Failed to open in Acrobat first time. Redownloaded, unzipped and worked 2nd time, not sure what was different.
I tried downloading the drawings without actual intent to use them and it worked fine! Perhaps OneDrive senses your intent and selectively corrupts downloads from those who need them most?
@@LeshanaK wow, that'd be insidious! But since I didn't have intention to use them either, I can't falsify it! :)
Enjoyed seeing those acme treads come to life. Wasn't sure if these feelings were accurate so I held a light up behind them. Yep, enjoyed it.
🤣😂
I once worked with, what I will call one of the best manual lathe guys I have seen. When he ran into a problem similar to yours turning a long thin part. What he did to damp the vibration/chatter. Was to take his ballpeen hammer and hook it over the top of the stock. Than he could pull back a little or what was required to kill the vibration. The combination of the weight of the hammer and his feel on the handle worked quite well. This would also be a little safer than pinching with your fingers. Never the less you got a good result with what is usually a very difficult turning setup no mater how you do it. O just food for thought if you do make a follow rest. You might want to consider this. The normal rest is usually designed for right hand turning. In other words the stock will lift when being turned. So you will notice the jaw is on the top. If you make it for left hand turning like in this video, you might consider the jaw being on the bottom.
Cool idea!
@@Blondihacks
Great video Quinn!! Building on what Peter said, I'd try to utilize the t-slot that is in front of tool and make a block that has a spring loaded bearing to act as a follow rest. My saddle doesn't have keyways in it, but I bolted a plate where the follow rest attaches to my saddle.
Can't wait for the next video!! 🥰
Yes, normal steadyrest would not have worked for reverse rotation.
You can make a bidirectional follower that fits in the teeslots, just adjust it in as needed.
And the Hammer Rest was thus born!
Hi Quinn, love watching you work and your sillyness. I was watching your 4 jaw chuck tricks and I wanted to share this with you and your viewers. About 30 years ago I worked with an 80 year old WWII vet. He was hands down one of the 3 greatest tool makers I ever knew. When he set up a 4 jaw chuck, he used 2 keys. He would use them on the jaws across from one another. Once he had a bit of clamping pressure on the part he would turn both keys at the same time in the same direction to move the part back and forth until he dialed it in. Then he would do the same on the other jaws. I never saw him use a 3 jaw and after I did this a few times I never did either. I hope this is a helpful little trick. Blake
Amazing work as usual, Quinn. The makeshift follow rest idea was pure brilliance. Wouldn't have come up with that myself in a million years. I suspect I might have to borrow the idea at some point.
30 years ago when I was in community college machine shop this was the second thing I made. It was a little different, but the function was the same. Man how time flies... Nice work, and thanks for the memories!
Nice one Quinn! The first threads I cut were acme. I knocked over mom's guitar and broke a tuning key. High school shop
Teacher was awsome! 👍
Really appreciated the comments about acme thread. Always knew what it was but never realised why it was.
I need to order a couple of those transparent thumbs. They'll come in handy.
They come in left hand only !
Its always good to keep them ... on hand.
@@tlange5091 that joke wasn't called for. you'll be asked to leave the building if your not careful!!
I had one until I smacked it with a hammer. Turns out they're glass!
That's so satisfying to see that thread gauge fit so perfectly in those threads.
The fist shake was a nice touch!
Hi Quinn,
Nice Acme thread cutting and I applaud your way of working through unseen problems. I once had to cut several 1 1/8" X 4 TPI internal square thread bushings to be pressed into 25 lb. barbell weights that were used on a antique telescope where the declination axis shaft was threaded 1 1/8" x 4. That was done on my 7 X 12 mini-lathe with a hand crank in the spindle. I made a silicon mold of a portion of the declination axis and then used low melting point casting metal to make a positive for a thread gauge. I was difficult on the small lathe, but did get it done and the barbells worked great as counterweights for the telescope. Once the point of balance was found, you snugged up the counterweights against each other and that held their position. You and the family stay safe.
Quinn,
Thank you for your kind words. I hope to get better at videos; however as of now I struggle. I really hope to put together some sort of video to be a digital “User Manual” showing all the uses of the Rose-Index. “Referencing, Rotating, Shifting and Flipping …. Plus the fact that it’s “Removable” really adds to the flexibility and ease of use. The Rose-Index really makes referencing and manipulating round parts easy.
In your situation you mentioned not preplanning the use of a Rose-Index. You would have been fine by simply attaching it when you needed to reposition your work piece with a machinist square. Then you could remove it if you prefer.
Even if you were to remove the work piece from your centering fixture you could have went to a flat surface and put a Rose-Index on and use your pin in the hole with gage blocks or similar on both sides of your work piece to get the pin parallel to the flat surface……Tighten the setscrew and you regained a reference.
I goof up occasionally pulling a work piece out of a vise before I’m finished. Very rarely does it add more than a couple minutes to make or regain a reference by not preplanning or simply goofing up.
Sincere Thanks and Best Wishes,
Timm, Carl, and Anton Rosenthal
I made this project it was fun to do . I didn't chase the thread. I used Acme all thread . You did a great job.
Would of been a lot more fun if you had cut the thread!
Bought two Rose Indexes the small one will be much used on models. Your casual mentions are golden! I keep a pen and paper handy while I watch your videos, jotting down those references, and then check them out a bit later. Thank you!
I love your channel. Regarding parting while using a tailstock center...I'm sure you've seen the Cutting Edge Engineering channel. Kurtis the machinist repair large excavating equipment. This include very large hydraulic cylinders. He cuts off the ends and welds in a new cylinder. To cut the ends he uses tail stock support and cuts through the existing welds until smoke appears indicating he has "almost" reached the inside of the cylinder. He then removes the structure and smacks the end with a hammer. Keep in mind that the rotating pieces are brought to the machine with an overhead crane (they are large and heavy). Pretty interesting to watch.
Yet another excellent video by TH-cam’s most perspicacious machinist. Thanks, Quinn.
I made one of these based on Mr. Pete’s design. Its been on my drill press ever since. I love it so much I ceremoniously discard the old drill press vice.
Thank you Quinn, this has been on my list since Lyle's 1st video about them...
seeing this reminds me of trying to cut an acme thread at sea with the lathe twisting and needing to try to counter that as much as we could. Only to get the part done and find that I the MR3 and the MR1 both missed that it was reverse acme!!
I love that you never fail to remind us that the first operation in any lathe work is to face the stock; as is tradition.
Love the indicator tip for getting an exact length. I'm 100% the target audience for that, Got my lathe (crappy little import, but it's good to learn on) setup in the last two weeks and I'm just barely getting started working with it. Mostly just making upgrades to deal with it's deficiencies right now, but that's how I prefer it. You never learn how things work in depth if they work perfect the first time. Gotta have something break, or suck, and then scratch your head about how to fix it.
I appreciate your clarity, and that you speak fluent Canadian. It's perhaps the superior form of English (I say this as a fluent speaker of American).
"chamfers are what separates us from the animals" .... PRICELESS !!
With making acme thread and nut thingies; I always cheat in 2 ways : 1. I make the thread way thicker than it needs to be (more rigid and easier in the lathe). 2. I always make them about 5 to 10 cm longer than I need them to be; I cut that off, do some milling on it and heat-treat it (I use mostly tool steels) and tadaaaa, got a matching tap :D ...
Some of my favorite parts of your videos is one, your sense of humor but even more so you are not afraid of mistakes and use them as a teaching moment that we can all learn from - thank you and keep up the good work ( and some of the bad work )
I’ve heard about your channel but now I’ve started watching it to get some tips using a lathe. Great channel!
Quinn, I understand your issues with the follow rest. My tool post can move enough to position it where I want it so it aligns with the follow rest. It wouldn't be too hard to build an adjustable follow rest that would mount on the T-slots on the cross slide. However you would have to leave your cross slide locked the whole time.
HOWEVER, the follow rest is designed to hold against forces created by cutting in FORWARD! By cutting in reverse you will need to build a follow rest support that supports the back and BOTTOM of the work.
I will look forward to seeing what you come up with! Keep up the good work.
From an experienced engin builder and tested point of view.
All loud engins do is call cops and reduce low end torque in an engine.
There seems to be a plague of them these days.
Nice job on the threads.
Used a block of wood to stop chatter once or twice myself.
The expert still makes mistakes, but knows how to recover from them.
Your recovery was gold!
" . . . I failed to plan ahead . . ." Oy Vey, it happened to me too! Never mind. Good fortune in all your projects mighty Quinn!
One of these days I either need to get someone to make me a 3/4" 2TPI-LH double start ACME tap or make one myself to repair my father's old Artisian lathe. I'm not sure his little craftsman lathe would be up to the task. I think about this project every time I wach one of these wonderful videos on cutting ACME threads...
**Thanks Artisan for putting a non-standard unusual 3/4" 2TPI-LH double start ACME on the lathe carriage power feed.**
** use of Sarcasterisk
Once again, not a machinist and never will be, but your creativity and sense of humor are a bright spot in my week. Every week I laugh out loud at least once.. Thank you!
I like the clamp trick to keep the round stock from rolling while cutting it off in the band saw.
Ha!, I came here to scroll thru the comments to see if anyone else had mentioned that. Wasn't disappointed. Neat trick indeed.
I had a project that required acme threads internal as well as external on some 2” parts. Being so novice that I could barely spell lathe, I practiced on some 2” pvc until I was confident that I could do it. Turned out great and made me feel pretty good about teaching myself machining processes. Love your videos!!!❤
I wish I had this lady,s skill and patience.
Hi Quinn,
as one of your viewers who never touched a machine tool in real life but is mentally preparing to do so one day I want to say how awsome you are.
Also I want to suggest a topic for a video: How to read drawings? You show them in your builds and it is somehow clear that the information is in there but it looks superficially like a mess of lines and numbers.
I have actually touched a couple of machine tools, but touch is about the extent of it, I've never actually used any - but other than that, I'm in exactly the same boat as you. I'm waiting to move house somewhere with the space required for a small machine shop and Quinn's videos have been fantastic for me learning in advance! Help reading drawings would definitely help me too!
I use a drill press vice in my spray booth to hold a guitar holding setup when finishing. It's crap tolerances mean it doesn't get messed up by overspray, the rough textured jaws mean it holds the jig very solid, and the cheap price means I can replace it easily when it gets so gross I can keep using it. So, you know a second use for them does exist!
Yes, you *can* buy acme threaded bar, but generally not in fine pitch. I recently needed two lengths of metric trapezoidal (30 degree angle) 18x2, and it's not readily available unless you are prepared to spend big $$. Making your own is great fun, and I had exactly the same problems with chatter. Interestingly I came up with almost the same solution to solve it ;-)
So much learning just happened. I can't wait to follow along with this project.
Love your channel - keep up the good work!
I'm a qualified Fitter & Turner in Australia but changed professions after 15 years and I haven't been "on the tools" for over 20 years. We were always told that ACME threads were used in precision machines as they would self-centre with no backlash, and self-adjust for wear when using half nuts or adjustable nuts.
Haha. Don’t tell Stephan. I won’t. Love your videos and explications. Thank you
The only thing I would add to the "how to get something to exact length in the lathe" bit, for beginners, be careful touching off your tool to the end of your stock. If your stock is on the softer end the insert on the tool can sink right into it a good like 5-10 thou without you even really noticing because there's not much resistance. I generally use a 20 thou feeler gauge between the stock and the edge of the tool for things like aluminum/brass to get a known start point. Nothing worse than thinking you cut something perfect and it's actually nearly 10 thou undersized.
Paper touch off just like on your manual and or vert cnc for setting Z...
Very nice parts. I really like how you didn't cut out or ignore your failures to plan ahead. It seems like every one of my projects has several of those moments.
I watch a lot of machining videos here on TH-cam, and I must say that is nice to see the Ladies represented. I hope that doesn't sound sexist. Please keep up the excellent work!
adding mm in the video while taking in inch make my live easer thank you so much for you amazing videos
You always do all the coolest projects. I remember when MrPete made the float lock vise and I was all enthused with it and was going to build one. Then I looked at what I have and it does the job very well and I just never did build one. If you get tired of being a programmer you can always get a job as shop foreman in a machine shop, maybe work for Tom Lipton. Keep on keeping on.
Great video. Thanks for showing using the gage to find the length. I'm probably the only one on here that this helped but as very new to machining I learn a lot from tips like this.
I know this comment will get lost, but here I go anyway! I have worked for a thread shop for almost 20 years. I have had good luck letting the chatter go, and on the last pass...speeding it up and it takes out the previous harmonics without letting the new ones develop. (that's the best way I can explain it)
Good tip!
I have a similar problem deburring holes when making fingerholes on bagpipe chanters - my solution is designed for fingers: take a finger sized rod, wrap abrasive around it, and run it longways over the hole at 90 degrees to the part.
You are a born teacher Quinn. That was a nice project, thank you. Oh and, the drawing DL'd here no issues.
I always really enjoy seeing the tools you made in past videos making a cameo.
poop knuckles? thats a great one. watching the rest of video, and that phrase wouldn't leave my mind. great content. thank you
The one revolution setup when facing stock on the indicator is something all new machinst should know
another thing you can do, if your having trouble with follower rests and clearance issues with tool post positions, is to hold the tool in boring bars which can accept the tool shank your using. Then coming up with some funky tool post angle to get what you need. Your going to lose some tool rigidity but it can work out. Usually just use a bar with a slot milled in the very end with some screws to hold it in place.
I made a version of this project, adapting it to what I had on hand, which included the acme threaded rod and nut from an old Toyota scissor jack. You inspired me though, and next time I do a project with an acme thread I'll cut it myself. Thanks for making these informative and entertaining videos.
Quinn, I love your show. I appreciate your knowledge !!! You come up with some real good solutions, and they work well !!! Give this a shot:
I have been a tool designer/builder for over half a century. As I watched, and you talking about what you needed, an idea came to me. Sometime when you're needing another project, build this one and add it to your tools.
Make a shoe to fit above the top of the tool-post you're using. Instead of using the standard allen set-screws to clamp your cutting tool in place, use longer all-thread screws. Set the shoe on top of the tool-post and use nuts on those all-threads to secure the shoe onto the tool-post. Build it so you have a swing-away upright, (hinged so the whole rig will lift off the work when not needed, just by pulling down the handle, like a slap, if needed, in case something happens, ie. Murphies Law #1, "If something Can go wrong, it will, and at the most inappropriate time!) Then build something that is (similar to a bench vice operation), a square hole with a threaded hole above or below it (you choose which). ((It only need 3" travel)) You want to be able to move a carrier that will have a clamp screw that tightens to the square bar running thru the vertical shoe-piece. This bar will extend to the back side of your work and have an adjustable up/dn square bar that your two follow bearings are running on.
That was great, very educational! I just got done cleaning my new MX 210 v lathe, waiting on Amazon to bring a few things. I did did make a washer/shim for the stock tool post tool holder so that was cool. Thanks for all you do!
Going to follow along since that was a 3rd shop project when I was in High school.
Ive seen copper 2 pence coins used, and masking tape to protect the job from the hard jaws. I like your copper set up.
I just realized that the follow rest is designed to support work when the lathe is running forwards. Since pressure on the toolbit will normally push the work up, the follow rest has a finger to hold the work down. So a follow rest with a finger underneath the work would maybe be a good project, I've never seen one for sale (that I know. Now I know to look for it :) )
You did a great job on this and the use of the mag-base and brass for anti-chatter duty was neat.
I love that you redid the intro 😅 I also share your hatred for drill vices
You are an inspiration and make incredibly enjoyable parts and videos.
I wish for you good health and all of the success you desire. Thank You and have a great day.
Awesome job on the Acme thread.
chamfering an OD: Use an end mill (ball nose, if you want to avoid another setup) with a diameter close to the size of the OD you're chamfering on, and you just take the nose across the hole, and you should get pretty close to a nice chamfer.
Oh interesting! Good tip!
I did something similar on my mini lathe. I machined a notch into a brass rod about a half inch in diameter and with my cross slide being slotted I used another tool holder on the backside to hold my rod in place. It’s only in one dimension but it worked really well maybe think about using a piece of material with tee slots and tap a couple holes into the backside of your cross slide
Really cool! Can't wait for a Follow Rest upgrade!
That dampening rest was super cool and innovative. :)
I'll offer solution to your follow rest mounting quandary. The restrictions to a top mount are many.
Commercially speaking, the normal patterns are mounted to the side of the cross-slide, or carriage underneath. For starters and with any luck at all, your gib screws are on the operators right side. Instead of depending on large screws (and requisite deeper holes), work 1/4" or 5/16" into the design, dowel pins for location and secure additional shear strength.
Depending on available travel, the slip fit could be in frame of follow rest, leaving dowels retained in the mounting side. That COULD include studs on that side as well, far better then SHCS.
The thread looks great, it must have been so satisfying! Clever recovery for the traveling rest problem too.
There is so much of value to remember from each of your videos!
I made a square thread tool out of a round piece of stock that was held in a hole in square stock with a grub screw so I could adjust the angle to suit the thread. Not my idea, copied from a fellow model engineer. The tool cut the thread, then broke on a spring pass while making the tap. Good enough but still a shame as I'm pretty sure the dims were not quite right (mine never are) so I probably wouldn't be able to cut a matching thread again.
I find that milling a small flat before cross drilling works wonders for easy drilling and chamfering. Of course it's extra steps and 180 rotation if you want to do both sides.
Spite based engineering is an excellent motivator.
We're looking forward to part II. You deserve your popularity, Honey Chile.
I really like your new wording asking for patreon support. I find your videos very relaxing but the 'throw a little love' line at the end used to scratch my surface.
Really great work. Very satisfying to get larger parts like this dialed in on small equipment.
The enlightenment of alignment casting shade of feelings?!
Quinn. When you run the lathe backwards the rest point on the top of the rest must be on the underside I think.
The material is pushed down.
Like your videos. THX
Great inventing there Blondi. Looking forward to the rest of the build. Have a good one 👍🇦🇺
Fantastic work as always Quinn, I to have never cut an acme thread you ingenuity for steady rest was brilliant. Thanks for the link to the rose index what a great idea. Thanks so much for sharing Cheers.
I have those plans too,waiting to finish restoring my lathe. Be nice to see your build! I bought acme thread since I have the tap,yea the easy way out,but I need 2 of these in a bad way. Great video.
I have two vices like that, although they appear to be slightly less heavy duty. For me, they work perfect. Although, what I have them do is clamp on to the edge of my 3/4" desk with a few angle brackets fit to hold a plank of plywood my throttle and flight stick are attached to. Mine even have a quick open button, but it doesn't work if there's any pressure on it, so I still have to twist the handle and loosen it first.
As fuggly as they look, they work, and I'm kinda proud I made the pair of them for half of what a single mount would have cost me.
Nice tool build choice. We shared this video on our homemade tools forum this week 😎
I enjoy the treatis that you provide in your videos. Your approach is different and probably better than any other TH-camr. You are also very consistent in quality and quantity of yoru vids. Paul (Patreon)
Always have my respect ! Down load of drawings went well.
As an apprentice, had to cut a quad start acme, and fit to existing nut. No clue what I was doing, but managed to get it done. Discovered later, that was the pass or fail, to continue training.....sheesh.
Another good reason to cut your own is that ordering from Acme, inc. can really backfire!
I just got a traveling rest and like yours it touches the material quite a ways from where the cut is happening. I don't understand why they are designed that way. It seems like being able to modify it so it can be adjusted fore/aft with a similar mechanism to a tailstock offset, would be helpful.
Great video as always. Time to get an electronic leadscrew. No more gear changes, I just love mine.
Quinn, your squeeze bottle for the cutting fluid would be more fun if it was red and labeled with the word "ketchup" as wells a local diners name/logo screen printed onto it.
Great video, I love watching your projects take shape
Another fine Acme product :)
Great video. Very clear narration.
That little rest should be called the Lady's Chattering Smotherer.
When I hear an annoying car, truck, or whatever, I just say "Wow, I wish I was cool." But of course, all of us cool kids use sarcasm.
Well done as usual. Another neat project has begun.
Yay!
Thanks, and Meow to Sprocket.
Whenever some clown drives by in his lifted truck with a hole drilled in the muffler revving it at the stoplight and thinking he’s a stud, I always say “damn dude, save some bitches for the rest of us”
@Mark Fergerson I had one of those trucks in my teen years, 67 Chevy PU with a built 327ci 3" dual exhaust blown out cherry bombs that exited just behind the cab and body to be just legal, was very fast stoplight to stoplight but the truck 4spd would top out at about 90. Load the cylinders with fuel one good rev and hit the spark button and fire shoots from both sides. That truck was fun.
@@LeonardRoberts I blew a muffler clean off the car doing that one night but, in my defense, I was VERY young.
Thank you I never got a chance to do metal work only wood work lol . Can’t wait for the next part thank you 👍👍
Hi Quinn, could you make an attachment to bridge the cross slide by attaching it to the saddle and put some reamed holes along the bridge to give multiple positions. Great video by the way Quinn.👍👍
Yah, kinda what I was thinking too. Something along those lines!
I'm so stoked for this build!
Very much enjoyed this video, and your humor is great.
0:43 well, we use similar vise to this one on our threading machine, it has it´s jaws screwed into place, we have few prismas milled into them.... it´s pretty usefull
I work on MASTURN MT50 (500 max diameter (380 over support), 800mm between centers), I enjoy turning big stuff but hate doing small stuf.... But I enjoy watching small parts (for me haha) being made on these little machines, you gotta be more creative than me sometimes just to solve problems that I didn´t even think about.... Great work Quinn, greetings from Slovakia, I´ve enjoyed the whole video :)