Hey Mike, cheers on the good work. Im running into a similar issue with my LS400 in regards to a lot of smoke as soon as i power on, compression & leak down tests show that cylinders are good. But sticking a borescope, i have a few cylinders that have oil dripping via the exhaust valve, leading me to believe the valve stems are in need of replacement. Unfortunately, nothing on youtube but i found this and 1UZ vs 3UZ as it relates to valve stems/seals seems to be very similar so i appreciate the walkthrough! Nevertheless, thank you for the presentation and good luck with the youtube journey, subscribed!
Glad you got the smokeless payoff you were after 😁👍 , I’m alway a little bit pessimistic about LPG symptoms, they caused a lot of head gasket failures in range rovers , the Lexus engines are obviously more reliable, I’m just wondering if any of your valve seeping came from the hotter burn 🔥 of lpg . Looking forward to the next video.😁👍
Great job and appreciate your care in documentation. I'm currently doing the exact same job. Do you by chance have the part number for O-ring that goes on the oil dipstick tube? Thanks!
I’ve literally gone through the exact experience as you. I’m here now as I got both my heads entirely rebuilt so now have to replace some valves. Any tips on shimming the valves
It takes time and accurate measurement - try and use a micrometer not a vernier if you can - and get all your initial measurements done first so you can work out what shims you actually need and which could be re-used (they’re expensive!). You’ll also be installing. Torquing, removing and re-installing the cams, a lot, so I’d recommend getting new cam cap bolts for the final install, as mine were getting quite ‘tired’ by then. Otherwise it’s just a case of being methodical and patient. Good luck!
This 430 series/job/experience is awesome!! Do you believe that the heads would come out without exhaust manifold attached if you removed front wheels and unbolted it through wheel well?
You can’t access the manifold bolts through the wheel well - the engine bay has a solid metal panel in the way. Removing with the manifolds on is actually not too bad so long as you disconnect the steering rack from the column on the drivers side.
It can be done but will be difficult. You’d need to use compressed air through the spark plug hole (using a specific adapter) to keep the valves in place. Then, you’ll need to use a tool like the Lisle one I use to remove the valve springs, but (having looked at doing exactly that) access will be impossible unless the tool is cut down and, even then, it may not be possible to get at everything in situ. Personally I think it CAN be done, but be prepared to get the heads off if it doesn’t…
Hello! i was wonderding what were the steps ou took to put the Manifold back inside? I see that you edited that part out and was curious how it was done, thank you!
I cover it in more detail in part 1 of the valve stem videos plus the P0171 diagnosis video - I didn’t show it going in in either of the videos as my Wife helped steady it and wasn’t keen to be on TH-cam… 😀 it’s not too hard - you just need to make sure you don’t bump any of the stuff under the intake when slotting it back in and tie/bungee the upper coolant lines up out of the way.
Hey Mike, cheers on the good work. Im running into a similar issue with my LS400 in regards to a lot of smoke as soon as i power on, compression & leak down tests show that cylinders are good. But sticking a borescope, i have a few cylinders that have oil dripping via the exhaust valve, leading me to believe the valve stems are in need of replacement.
Unfortunately, nothing on youtube but i found this and 1UZ vs 3UZ as it relates to valve stems/seals seems to be very similar so i appreciate the walkthrough! Nevertheless, thank you for the presentation and good luck with the youtube journey, subscribed!
Congratulations 🎉🎊🍾🎈, you're dedication and relentless efforts has just increased the value of the GS430. I appreciate your documentary.
Thanks! Much appreciated.
👏
Glad you got the smokeless payoff you were after 😁👍 , I’m alway a little bit pessimistic about LPG symptoms, they caused a lot of head gasket failures in range rovers , the Lexus engines are obviously more reliable, I’m just wondering if any of your valve seeping came from the hotter burn 🔥 of lpg . Looking forward to the next video.😁👍
I don’t think so, as these issues largely came with the car, but I’ll be keeping an eye on it that’s for sure!
Great job and appreciate your care in documentation. I'm currently doing the exact same job. Do you by chance have the part number for O-ring that goes on the oil dipstick tube? Thanks!
Sorry, no - I didn’t replace that, but if you register on Toyodiy.com you’ll be able to find it there no problem
I’ve literally gone through the exact experience as you. I’m here now as I got both my heads entirely rebuilt so now have to replace some valves. Any tips on shimming the valves
It takes time and accurate measurement - try and use a micrometer not a vernier if you can - and get all your initial measurements done first so you can work out what shims you actually need and which could be re-used (they’re expensive!).
You’ll also be installing. Torquing, removing and re-installing the cams, a lot, so I’d recommend getting new cam cap bolts for the final install, as mine were getting quite ‘tired’ by then.
Otherwise it’s just a case of being methodical and patient. Good luck!
This 430 series/job/experience is awesome!!
Do you believe that the heads would come out without exhaust manifold attached if you removed front wheels and unbolted it through wheel well?
You can’t access the manifold bolts through the wheel well - the engine bay has a solid metal panel in the way. Removing with the manifolds on is actually not too bad so long as you disconnect the steering rack from the column on the drivers side.
Really good job my friend. My question is, is there a way to change the seals without removing the head?
It can be done but will be difficult. You’d need to use compressed air through the spark plug hole (using a specific adapter) to keep the valves in place. Then, you’ll need to use a tool like the Lisle one I use to remove the valve springs, but (having looked at doing exactly that) access will be impossible unless the tool is cut down and, even then, it may not be possible to get at everything in situ. Personally I think it CAN be done, but be prepared to get the heads off if it doesn’t…
Hello! i was wonderding what were the steps ou took to put the Manifold back inside? I see that you edited that part out and was curious how it was done, thank you!
I cover it in more detail in part 1 of the valve stem videos plus the P0171 diagnosis video - I didn’t show it going in in either of the videos as my Wife helped steady it and wasn’t keen to be on TH-cam… 😀 it’s not too hard - you just need to make sure you don’t bump any of the stuff under the intake when slotting it back in and tie/bungee the upper coolant lines up out of the way.
@@MikeMacful Ah thank you very much, ill definitely keep the bungee in mind!!
👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻🌹