This was Awesome, exactly how it goes for me. I will say, that the heating the aluminum around the stud and a cool stud with the vibration of the impact gun was the secret to you success.
Whenever I am struggling removing a bolt I try to make sure I am using only 6 point sockets to torque on it. The twelve point wrenches and sockets have more play.
I can watch him all day because of the commentary he makes throughout the video. LOL I started laughing when you said that though because I was thinking the same thing.
As a guy who does this stuff in my driveway, it's oddly cathartic to see a pro struggle with the same kind of problem and the same silly solutions. Honestly one of my favorite videos.
Weld a nut to the stud then weld a wrench to the nut then spray with lube then sacrifice 2 chickens while facing the setting sun and chanting “demon stud I expel thee” works every time.
Cut flush. Center punch. Drill with short two ended drill bit. Redrill with bit to tap the hole. Tap the hole. Less time spent. Heat and quench will not work an any exhaust part. My personal experience.
Great vid. I think it was the heat and the crow coming to your aid. He was commanding the head to submit. My ASE Master Tech uncle always told me "don't let it beat you." Your patience and humor are great to watch.
"So, that was pretty easy..." The way you said that made me laugh so hard I almost toppled over with my chair! Thank you for taking the time to make these videos, and I hope all is well in the world of SMA!
@South Main Auto Repair As a former ford dealership technician I can tell you that the best way to remove a broken stud on a ford modular cylinder head is with a welder. You were not getting enough penetration on your first attempts due to a dirty stud and a poor ground. Here is the procedure I followed that worked for me every time and helped me run circles around other techs performing the same job. Disconnect negative battery cable Cut the stud down until only 1/16" or less protrudes from the head. Clean the stud surface with a wire brush in your die grinder. Clamp a new 3/8" nut in some vise grips so that the nut can be held flush to the cylinder head. Attach the ground to the vise grips. ***If you attach the ground to the engine block you will likely get a poor connection due to oxidization in between the stud and the threaded hole. Set your MIG welder as if you were welding 1/4" plate and weld the nut to the stud, making sure to keep the angle of the mig gun parallel with the stud. The weld should be as hot as possible without distorting the hex of the nut. Immediately after welding, slowly remove the nut/stud with a 3/8" impact on the low setting. If the nut/stud is allowed to cool before trying, it will be harder to remove. After one truck with 6 broken studs you will be a master at this process and it will take less than 5 min per stud guaranteed!!! A tip to aid in the removal of the nuts on unbroken studs, park the truck in the sun and let it idle for 20 min to thoroughly heat soak the engine, and remove the manifold nuts while the engine is hot.
"You were not getting enough penetration on your first attempts due to a dirty stud and a poor ground." This had absolutely nothing to do with electricity. And welding a nut to a broken bolt doesn't always work 100% of the time. It does work most of the time but not all of the time. Doing it this way can sheer the bolt off flush with the surface of whatever it's in.
" Call of the Crow" an SMA short film, where our hero, the small town mechanic, overcomes countless obstacles to emerge victorious in the battle of the stud.
In a world of broken bolts, rusted parts, and broken wires, there is only one man who rises to meet those challenges. His name is Eric O. These are his stories.
glad you finally got it out. i am now retired but spent my life as a motorcycle mechanic. i had an exhaust stud that was seized in aluminum so bad, i did everything all of us at the shop could think of. with no luck at all. to get it out, i ended up drilling along side of the stud into the threads, and use multiple applications of muriatic acid which ate enough of the material away that the stud finally broke free enough to extract it. its funny how determined we can get when we have to.
It was all of the above. And the call of crow stopped because death came to the evil bonds that held in the bolt. And thank you for showing and sharing your FRUSTRATION! It seemed like I'm the only one getting the "swami stumper " problems. I have used all the methods you used along with lots of cussing and throwing things. And walking away. But I'm only working on my own stuff on my little ranch. I love your channel. You always show real problems and real outcomes. And thanks again.
I can enjoy watching this guy being cool when faced with frustrating crap. By the time I'm onto plan C, I've yelled plan F this S several times. Keep the good videos with good attitude coming Sir.
Eric, You often have me laughing out loud with your comical comments along with teaching me. You are entertaining and useful on so many levels. Thanks so much for all of it.
I watched the video, my conclusion was the heating and being persistent was what made it happen, also walking away for a while works many times when you go back to it. great video. Tom.W.
Great video. First one I've seen that documents the process warts and all. Stuff goes wrong. When it does, go to plan B. Still going wrong? Go to plans C-G. That was way more helpful than watching someone remove a broken bolt that was set up for video brevity. Now I know not to get discouraged when I twist off the first weld without budging the bolt. Thanks for the vid!
I know this video has long since passed but I think it was the patience and persistence of the professional mechanic beautiful job nice hanging in there
I have done it many times, they have never just fallen out after the treatment. I would say it is about 75 percent effective over my many years of doing it. Heat-treat-cool 3 or 4 times is my preferred method. Cool vid! And yes my VW interior smells like a crayon. ;)
I'm more of a welder than a tech, but I have done a ton of broken bolts. I have some posts on IATN about it. The trick, even for recessed bolts in aluminum is still welding, just a little different. For your 8MM stud example I would take a big black iron nut, say 1/2"-5/8" or so. Hold it over the stud and place your mig wire in the middle of the hole. Fire it up, concentrating the heat in the center on the stud, then slowly filling the hole in the nut. let it cool and back it out. It may not work the first or second time, but each time the stud heats in its ridged hole it shrinks a little. It will come out. I have done this on recessed bolts in aluminum as well. Tip: ground close to weld, you don't want welding current traveling through valves or electronics.
Bart Young I worked a Chrysler dealer and a Chevy dealer as a body man. I’ve successfully removed over 100 of these bolts using the technique you describe. Never had one give a problem. And the worst part is never got paid for the repairs because I wasn’t a ‘certified tech’. Just happened to be the only guy in the shop that knew how to weld.
Bart Young, I also I'am a welder in fab shop for 30 yrs. you are correct he wasn't getting enough penetration on the bolt. weld laying on top ,I would grind tip of bolt to a taper and weld around, but in a close spot like that a over size nut great idea in any situation .
@@wyatthull6613 I would demand payment from who ever is in charge for the repair! Let the certified hack do it then. Never give away your skills at a job. Furthermore, if the certified hack did not compensate you with something, ballgame tickets, tools, hooking you up with a chick Etc. Then it's a one time show for that guy!
Mail moves slow up here in the cold north. I'll let you know, thanks for the heads-up! There's another Canadian mail strike coming, it could take a while.
From the AL/FE electrolysis (white powder in the threads) the heat, quenching and mechanical vibration were positives in removing the broken bolt/stud. What I still do not understand is that there are some very high temp anti-seize products out there that are not being used. I use to use pool o-ring lube silicon grease or silicone vacuum pump grease, when I was fastening bolts into Aluminum to prevent that electrical connection and fill the air gaps on the threads to remove the amount of space electrolysis could occur. The navy learned the hard way back in the 80's with aluminum superstructures on top of a steel ship and salt water to try and save weight for new fuel economy standards on new ships being built. Have the same thing going on in Upstate N.Y, just on the highways. Wait until folks need body work on the new ford trucks....
You are absolutely right!...the white powder on the threads was aluminum oxide, preferencial to iron oxide because of alu's place in the galvanic series..it locks the things together better than welding! Like I always say...you can't stop mother nature! ...but you can slow her WAAAY down! by using graphite or zinc filled anti-seize greases when assembling....but why should any manufacturer? When the bolts are new, at the factory they don't have any problem...more planned obsolescence by those pricks ...if there was an option where you could pay an extra $100 when you bought a new car, to have it fully assembled with anti-seize, I would! Anybody who assembles something where alu is in contact with iron, like bolts in alu or bolts through an alu bushing, and doesn't use anti-seize, should be slapped about the head and shoulders...MANY times. That is all!
@@ronplucksstrings7112 Great points! Can you suggest some products that we can buy at NAPA or some other retail shop to use for engines (high heat) or other applications? Much appreciated!
@@tsakaln1 For high heat, you can't beat a graphite/nickel filled anti-seize, because although greases will cook away, you'll never cook away graphite or the other particulates!...yes I said NEVER! Permatec/Loctite Anti-Seize is one of my favorite products (no relation!)! Use is on just about anything with threads, including hot, like exhaust manifolds and headbolts! (When using it where fastening torques are specified, like headbolts, adjust specified torques down by 10-15% because of the "K-Factor"). Cheers
@@ronplucksstrings7112 I second that why can't these firms use anti sieze or whichever suitable I've currently got 5 header bolts to sort it's a headache but love the video persistence paid off
Just recently had a 5.4 l manifold job. Broke 5 studs off tried welding nuts on they just kept breaking on each one .. tried welding an 8 mm washer on first then weld a nut to the washer every one of them came out on first try.
this is a late comment but my hat is off to you! THAT was a testimony of a true professional mechanic. I have watched all kinds of videos about broken bolt removal and they all claimed the welded nut would not fail. I have had some tough ones during wrench turning since 1965 and I know broken/seized fasteners are not always a neat and clean fix. This one took the prize. Sometimes I get to wondering if after the heat there needs to be a total cool down, metal expansion/contraction is the mechanism when relying on heat. Maybe even a spray down with refrigerant to cryo freeze the fastener. I feel for you guys in the rust belt, repair cost rates should reflect these wars.
My "GO-TO" method is to weld a nut on with a TIG Torch. That system uses an electric ARC from a Tungstin Electrode in Argon Gas to shield the air from the molten puddle. The amperage is controlled by a foot peddle and you can hold the arc at low amperage on the stud without adding filler metal. Heat the stud and allow the heat to soak deep into the threads to expand the stud and break the corrosion structure up a little. Finally add 309 Stainless Filler Rod to weld the nut on. Spray with penetrant & follow the procedures that you did. TIG and 309 Filler material is usually a much stronger weld than MIG in such a small area. You can also reach down to a stud below the surface, heat it up, and add rod and build it up to above the surface, then weld a nut on, without affecting the hole and threads. The precise control of the TIG process makes this possible with some practice, but it takes some specialized equipment. Anyone with TIG equipment should try it. I once removed 7 broken studs from a Chrysler Slant 6 in about 40 Minuets. I have also removed a few hundred broken 5/16" Exhaust Studs form Aluminum Aircraft Cylinder Heads that are set in HELICOILS at the factory when new. And yes.... I was on the edge of my seat.... having been there may times.
I stumbled on you channel can’t stop watching it. It’s good to see a mechanic that just likes to fix things correctly and honest. I’m a mechanic as well been doing it a long time like to see if there’s another trick for problems always learning
I think what made the difference was the last time you welded the nut on the stud the nut was further down allowing you to get more surface to weld on versus the other times you were only welding on the top of the stud. The last time you were able to weld a little on the sides of the stud. So I think that helped and made it a lot stronger. Some people say first weld a flat washer to the stud and then weld a nut over it. It allows for more purchase. Just my opinion.
I think once you welded the nut on the bolt let it cool down then heat the body around the stud through the ports both sides of the stud without heating the stud,simple Eric deary me.😂😂😂
I've used an old syringe with a long slender needle to inject penetrating oil or other lubes into otherwise inaccessible spaces. You might be surprised to find that there is almost always a tiny crevice or hole available to let in the penetrating fluid. It's a lot neater than spraying all that stuff all over your work area hoping to get a few molecules of oil into the threads.
I bought a $16 stud removal tool from advance auto that work to pull the broken, rusty, seized up studs out of my 4.7 head. One of the best purchases I ever made. Attaches right to an impact and tightens up as you go. Never failed me.
I've used all of your methods over the years except the wax. I've welded to the stud before adding a nut so I could use a bigger nut. The oblong stud allows for penetration along side the stud. I used 11018 welding rod. Once the nut is welded on, heat it with a torch to keep it hot for a few minutes then slowly back the torch away to let it cool slowly. This anneals the metal so it isn't as hard and brittle. Do the same to soften the metal if you have to drill the stud. I've used liquid nitrogen to super cool the broken bolt.
That ladies and gentleman is the definition of patience and perseverance. Both qualities necessary to become a top level auto mechanic/technician. I think this is one of the most demanding trades, if you have a reliable guy that you deal with and he gives you a fair shake-treat him like gold.
I was greatly rooting for you from the very beginning! And so you know, and I have only told one other person this, my dad! You are beyond and an incredible, persevering and determined mechanic. You are, the master of mechanic masters oh great one! Lol! Awsome job! I am so enjoying watching you work!
I tell what got that stud out was an absolute refusal to be beaten. Been there myself and was willing that stud out with you. What a feeling though when they start moving. All the best and love the channel.
What I have had luck with is welding a nut, heating the cylinder head, and then using an air duster upside down to freeze the bolt. Expansion and contraction science at its finest. Doesn't always work, but that goes for any method.
that was 26 minutes and 51 seconds of reliving every broken off rusted in can't get nothing on it cause you can't get to it but it has to come out bolt I've ever come across in my life and in the end the walk away is what always worked.
That mema is one smart lady she has taught you well! Great video love videos like this keep them coming!! Like they say patients is a virtue and you sir have more patients then anyone I’ve ever seen and not swearing too wow I would have said a few choice words on that bolt!! You the man Dr. O
Next time use a larger nut- like a 1/2 size so you can weld around to outer edge of the stud as well as the top- you will get a lot more strength that way.
The thing I learned with welding a nut on, is to let it cool completely before touching it. I went thru the same battle as you on a GM 5.3 and what won in the end was weld the nut on, then go do something else till its cooled off. Every time I tried it hot, the weld broke.
I agree. Letting the nut cool is very important on something like this, especially with the size of the bolt you were trying to remove. Eric, your videos make me feel like I'm back at work with the guys. I wish your videos were around 15 years ago when I was still working on my cars myself. Keep up the great work.
I’ve had good luck with the nut welding technique. I don’t cool it tho. Give it 1 min to cool then use hand tools and slowly work it back and fourth while still warm. Like you, I’ve also had to do it multiple times. Usually that slow careful back and fourth tears the aluminum in the first couple threads or two until it comes free. Good work! It’s not a job for the faint of heart.
Back in the day while working for a famous name muffler shop, we did a lot of VW Beetle mufflers. The attached directly to flanges that were cast into the aluminum heads secured usually by steel studs. The studs were typically rusted down to the thickness of pencil leads. The usual solution was to leave the nut alone, rusted to the stud, and heat the ears of the flange part of the head only. This made the flange expand and release the stud enough to where you could back the whole stud out with a socket/swivel/extension/ratchet. You had to work quickly and as soon as you felt it starting to bind up, stop and add a bit more heat and then repeat the process. I still have a few that I removed as "trophies" that always made people say "NO WAY !". Usually replaced the studs and nuts with stainless. This was why it took about 2 1/2 hrs to do a VW muffler held on by 4 nuts ! It worked about 90% of the time.
I admire your patience and determination not to let that bolt lick you. Who can say which method worked? I think the heat and air hammer is best. The crayon, water, or krill oil never got near the threads. Great vids, educational and entertaining. Stay with it partner, we're with you!
The crow is a very special bird that gives you insight when it knows that you need it. They intuitively understand what is going on around them, and are able to get our attention through sense of intuition while verbally getting our ears up. Crows will stay around and live close to a person that they love, for a very long time. I made this discovery about 6 years ago, and the crow that made it's debut in my life, is always around and has been for the whole six years, and she still helps me to realize things when I need to. Your crow, was helping you to realize that you needed to take a breather and think for a sec, and it worked. You realized her potential to you, and that is the reason why she is in your life.
As odd as it sounds I've had really good luck with soldering flux. I like to apply some before I heat it then after heating i just keep slathering it on till its too cool to melt any more. One good thing about this method is once I go to weld a nut on I heat the bolt one last time and melt the flux off and its pretty clean to weld to. Weld a washer to the bolt first and use a nut thats bigger than the bolt would use this allows for some penetration below the top of the nut and make sure to weld it to the washer as well. I never allow it to cool too much after I weld and try to use the more directed heat than the torch provides as welding tends not to warm up the other surface as much
I got a 98 f150 cheap and it was a landscapers truck. They also did snow removal and salting. The exhaust bolts were so bad we just pulled the engine out to work on it. Easier to check on other thing too while it was out. This rust bucked has been the bane of my existence. Your videos have given me the confidence to tackle these jobs. So far I've removed and reinstalled the engine, exhaust manifolds, both cats and full dual exhaust. Full rear drum kit, full front caliper kit and all new stainless fuel lines and brake hoses. She should just about be good enough to pass inspection. Damn Long Island winters tear vehicles up man. Love the videos.
I broke the bolt drilled it out into the water jacket then replaced the head on fords V10. I would say you did very well. Of course Mrs.O can’t be forgotten for her efforts!!!👍
I put off replacing my kitchen faucet for a year. Figured everything was gonna go wrong. Finally did it this week without a snag. Even re-used the line and compression fitting for the dishwasher. I keep looking for leaks and really appreciate that it`s all good.
Well said Dave. This guy is working on the stuff no one else wants to do. It looks like he’s in the north where weather reek havoc on all things metal. Make being a mechanic in the south look like child’s play. Thank you for giving me more confidence to do attempt tuffer jobs. Maybe I can thank you by giving you a guitar lesson or two. Watch now, Mr O is probably a rock star on the guitar 🎸 as well. 😅
I have used all the methods minus a candle or crayon. No offense Eric but this video made me feel better,lol. I'm not the only one who struggles with repairs like this. Once I was trying to get a half inch diameter radius rod bolt out that was broken and it took forever,lol. I had the frame so cherry red around the bolt to get it out that you could cook hot dogs on it. So after hours of soaking it with wd40 and then trying the quench method it finally came out. Every time something happens like this at my job I jokingly say to everyone Anti Seize is your best friend.😉
Omg I Used to work at a tire shop as the alignment tech and I would always say that about Volkswagen they smell like crayons and everyone would think I was crazy you are the only one that ever agree with me thank you. The shop is in the Nashville area where I live now but I am originally born and raised in Pennsylvania a.k.a. the rust belt and you’re correct working in the south of the mechanic and like every bolt is a unicorn. I also work in South Florida as a mobile mechanic for 10 years and they don’t know The struggles of rust anyway I love your channel keep up the new content
When I got a problem I come to you for advice. Like the detail way you explain things. The one you trouble the wiring was the best. I used to do shaded work when it came to wiring. Thank You Sir, you have a great day, Sincerely The Southernhelfulk
I felt your pain. This is where most people would say you suck for not getting the job done in a reasonable amount of time. These are the same people who haven't broken a sweat in decades pushing keys on a keyboard while collecting a six figure salary. Many people don't give us the credit and appreciation we deserve, especially when it comes to jobs like this. Sacrificing so the customer doesn't have to spend 3,000 on a new head. Job well done Eric.
Next time you have this problem cut into the top and make a slotted groove in the end like your trying to make a standard screwdriver slot about 1/8 if possible so you will have more surfaces for the weld to bond and melt together and not just the outer edges of the surface, it also gives it just that much more of a gripping of the two surfaces to hold on to each other while your trying to turn them.. I used a dremel or high-speed cutting disk to make the slot and it worked so far every time. Just another way you might want to try. Hope it helps and btw love, the channel..Best wishes to you and your family.
My "last resort" trick is to clean the bolt with a die grinder, etc and then grab a fender washer that closely fits the bolt. Drill a smaller one if necessary. Grab like a 3/4 nut and tack it to the washer to hold it. (button magnets will hold it in place, but they DIE as soon as the welder heat nails them). Put the welder on the highest power, and slow the wire feed... which puts more heat to it. Using the oversized nut allows you to weld in around the threaded portion of the bolt (instead of just the broken end). After you've filled the nut with weld (circular motion), quench it with a sopping wet shop rag till it stops steaming. THEN hit it with the tiger piss, kroil, blue crayon, or the special sauce from McDonald's, before it completely cools. Let it cool off completely before trying anything. I like the air hammer idea... Never tried that. Maybe it's worth leaving an indent in the nut, rather than welding it "full", so the tool can set in there. Nice video as always!
I HATE such situations... there is no one solution. I've also tried the wax dance a couple of times with zero success. The thing I fear about wax is that it 'might' later seal out conventional penetrants. One thing you might try is a penetrant product called 'Mouse Milk'... it's actually been around forever, but rarely seen outside the aerospace industry. It's very good stuff; but as with anything, don't expect miracles. No affiliation... can be had on Amazon, comes in plastic squeeze bottles. Cool videos, thanks for sharing!
It's not the beat, the heat, the quench, the wrench .... nor is is the crayon .... it's the TENACITY.😁 I've got a little of that too. At the expense of my health, I'll keep at something until it submits, one way or the other! Swearing furiously at the top of my lungs, and throwing tools in every direction seems to help too. 😜 Nice work! Now I dub you, TENACIOUS EEEEEE. 🙌 👍👍😎🤘🤘
@@SmittySmithsonite amen to the original comment. I can't tell you how many times if done that exact thing. Had a starter bolt on an 85 mustang v8 (lower bolt faces the front of the car and you can only get to it with 2 feet of extensions), would not come out for almost 6 hours lol. I cursed up a storm on that one.
Yeah, I don't know how anyone can work on anything built after 1995 for 3 minutes without cursing the engineers who designed it. By minute 7, I'm throwing stuff, LOL. 😂
Wow! It's has the quality of "Waiting for Gogot" over it. Like a play Richard Burton and Elisabeth Taylor always longed for, but no writer was clever enough to write! The background sound, the crow and the dialoque! A thousand directors will weep when they see this!
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You know you found a great channel when you actually watch the entire 28 min video of a broken stud removal. I commend you sir, great work.
Tytt
This was Awesome, exactly how it goes for me.
I will say, that the heating the aluminum around the stud and a cool stud with the vibration of the impact gun was the secret to you success.
Whenever I am struggling removing a bolt I try to make sure I am using only 6 point sockets to torque on it. The twelve point wrenches and sockets have more play.
I can watch him all day because of the commentary he makes throughout the video. LOL I started laughing when you said that though because I was thinking the same thing.
Yeah, it really sucks! Sometimes you're lucky, but other times... I have to make sure my kids aren't around or their ears will burn.
As a guy who does this stuff in my driveway, it's oddly cathartic to see a pro struggle with the same kind of problem and the same silly solutions. Honestly one of my favorite videos.
Finally a car repair channel that shows the frustration and heartache that is part of every mechanics life.
You need to turn the truck upside down so the wax will get into the threads.
That's how we do it on my planet.
...ever heard of: "CAPILLARY ACTION"(?)
@@daleburrell6273 ever heard of a "JOKE" (?)
@@svtirefire ...AREN'T JOKES SUPPOSED TO BE FUNNY?!!
@@daleburrell6273 jeez you must be the life of the party
Weld a nut to the stud then weld a wrench to the nut then spray with lube then sacrifice 2 chickens while facing the setting sun and chanting “demon stud I expel thee” works every time.
I like the culminating chant, cleanses this Earth of the desecrating evil of corrosion
I think the parts past the lube just serve as a way to let the heat soak in and the welded wrench heat to keep the lube flowing
Every 20 minute job is one broken bolt away from a 3 day ordeal.
True, sad but true.
P much dis.
Shit hega babba like a week ober hereba
So fucking true always take your time
Cut flush. Center punch. Drill with short two ended drill bit. Redrill with bit to tap the hole. Tap the hole. Less time spent.
Heat and quench will not work an any exhaust part. My personal experience.
“If I cry, will you hold me ?” LOL
I feel your pain, admire your perseverance and ability not to swear and threaten the truck with setting it on fire.
The power of your emotional vulnerability is what coaxed the broken stud out . . .
...that's the mark of a real PROFESSIONAL!!!
Totally agree, it seems some people cannot speak without swearing.
Forget the lubes, sprays, vibration, crows, water, heat, ect... what won in the end was your determination.
'Persistence pays off' ..an old saying every mechanic grows to respect.
i scrolled to say the same thing ! lol good on ya man
Damn right!
i concur
RJ_Make Thats exactly what I think. The rule is "dont give up". The most effective way to get a frozen bolt out is to use a lot of perspiration.
Great vid. I think it was the heat and the crow coming to your aid. He was commanding the head to submit. My ASE Master Tech uncle always told me "don't let it beat you." Your patience and humor are great to watch.
"So, that was pretty easy..."
The way you said that made me laugh so hard I almost toppled over with my chair!
Thank you for taking the time to make these videos, and I hope all is well in the world of SMA!
@South Main Auto Repair
As a former ford dealership technician I can tell you that the best way to remove a broken stud on a ford modular cylinder head is with a welder. You were not getting enough penetration on your first attempts due to a dirty stud and a poor ground. Here is the procedure I followed that worked for me every time and helped me run circles around other techs performing the same job.
Disconnect negative battery cable
Cut the stud down until only 1/16" or less protrudes from the head.
Clean the stud surface with a wire brush in your die grinder.
Clamp a new 3/8" nut in some vise grips so that the nut can be held flush to the cylinder head.
Attach the ground to the vise grips. ***If you attach the ground to the engine block you will likely get a poor connection due to oxidization in between the stud and the threaded hole.
Set your MIG welder as if you were welding 1/4" plate and weld the nut to the stud, making sure to keep the angle of the mig gun parallel with the stud.
The weld should be as hot as possible without distorting the hex of the nut.
Immediately after welding, slowly remove the nut/stud with a 3/8" impact on the low setting.
If the nut/stud is allowed to cool before trying, it will be harder to remove.
After one truck with 6 broken studs you will be a master at this process and it will take less than 5 min per stud guaranteed!!!
A tip to aid in the removal of the nuts on unbroken studs, park the truck in the sun and let it idle for 20 min to thoroughly heat soak the engine, and remove the manifold nuts while the engine is hot.
Why cut the stud down so far?
@@elguapo1690 longer studs are more likely to twist and break.
Warm engine they come out everytime
"You were not getting enough penetration on your first attempts due to a dirty stud and a poor ground." This had absolutely nothing to do with electricity. And welding a nut to a broken bolt doesn't always work 100% of the time. It does work most of the time but not all of the time. Doing it this way can sheer the bolt off flush with the surface of whatever it's in.
Good advise is always welcome as long as it's not from the guy in the pub , because he knows nowt , great tip !!!
" Call of the Crow" an SMA short film, where our hero, the small town mechanic, overcomes countless obstacles to emerge victorious in the battle of the stud.
the real secret is ....ya gotta wait til da crow stops laugh n at ja.... next time walk away and shoot the darn crow.......
vwwrenchie
In theaters now. Rated R for brief, strong language.
hahahahahahaha brilliant
In a world of broken bolts, rusted parts, and broken wires, there is only one man who rises to meet those challenges. His name is Eric O. These are his stories.
glad you finally got it out. i am now retired but spent my life as a motorcycle mechanic. i had an exhaust stud that was seized in aluminum so bad, i did everything all of us at the shop could think of. with no luck at all. to get it out, i ended up drilling along side of the stud into the threads, and use multiple applications of muriatic acid which ate enough of the material away that the stud finally broke free enough to extract it. its funny how determined we can get when we have to.
It was all of the above. And the call of crow stopped because death came to the evil bonds that held in the bolt. And thank you for showing and sharing your FRUSTRATION! It seemed like I'm the only one getting the "swami stumper " problems. I have used all the methods you used along with lots of cussing and throwing things. And walking away. But I'm only working on my own stuff on my little ranch. I love your channel. You always show real problems and real outcomes. And thanks again.
I can enjoy watching this guy being cool when faced with frustrating crap. By the time I'm onto plan C, I've yelled plan F this S several times. Keep the good videos with good attitude coming Sir.
Eric, You often have me laughing out loud with your comical comments along with teaching me. You are entertaining and useful on so many levels. Thanks so much for all of it.
Way to hang in there! No flying tools or fbombs! ! Great vid man.
I watched the video, my conclusion was the heating and being persistent was what made it happen, also walking away for a while works many times when you go back to it. great video. Tom.W.
Great video. First one I've seen that documents the process warts and all. Stuff goes wrong. When it does, go to plan B. Still going wrong? Go to plans C-G. That was way more helpful than watching someone remove a broken bolt that was set up for video brevity. Now I know not to get discouraged when I twist off the first weld without budging the bolt. Thanks for the vid!
I know this video has long since passed but I think it was the patience and persistence of the professional mechanic beautiful job nice hanging in there
I have done it many times, they have never just fallen out after the treatment. I would say it is about 75 percent effective over my many years of doing it. Heat-treat-cool 3 or 4 times is my preferred method. Cool vid! And yes my VW interior smells like a crayon. ;)
I'm more of a welder than a tech, but I have done a ton of broken bolts. I have some posts on IATN about it. The trick, even for recessed bolts in aluminum is still welding, just a little different. For your 8MM stud example I would take a big black iron nut, say 1/2"-5/8" or so. Hold it over the stud and place your mig wire in the middle of the hole. Fire it up, concentrating the heat in the center on the stud, then slowly filling the hole in the nut. let it cool and back it out. It may not work the first or second time, but each time the stud heats in its ridged hole it shrinks a little. It will come out. I have done this on recessed bolts in aluminum as well. Tip: ground close to weld, you don't want welding current traveling through valves or electronics.
Bart Young I worked a Chrysler dealer and a Chevy dealer as a body man. I’ve successfully removed over 100 of these bolts using the technique you describe. Never had one give a problem. And the worst part is never got paid for the repairs because I wasn’t a ‘certified tech’. Just happened to be the only guy in the shop that knew how to weld.
Bart Young, I also I'am a welder in fab shop for 30 yrs. you are correct he wasn't getting enough penetration on the bolt. weld laying on top ,I would grind tip of bolt to a taper and weld around, but in a close spot like that a over size nut great idea in any situation .
Used this method yesterday on a pos 3400 v6 exhaust manifold stud. 13 nuts later I finally got one to stick.
@@wyatthull6613 I would demand payment from who ever is in charge for the repair! Let the certified hack do it then. Never give away your skills at a job. Furthermore, if the certified hack did not compensate you with something, ballgame tickets, tools, hooking you up with a chick Etc. Then it's a one time show for that guy!
ALSO always disconnect both battery cables when welding on a car
Thanks for keeping the camera rolling, I would have been throwing things. You were cool as ice cream, ha ha.
Did you get your package yet?
Mail moves slow up here in the cold north. I'll let you know, thanks for the heads-up! There's another Canadian mail strike coming, it could take a while.
Mad props, sir. Thanks for the PG channel and for helping this layman feel a TON better about the trials of stuck bolts!
Best suspenseful video I've ever seen!!! I cheered when that bolt came out!!!
Last place in the world I thought I'd hear a "deeez nuts" joke!!
From the AL/FE electrolysis (white powder in the threads) the heat, quenching and mechanical vibration were positives in removing the broken bolt/stud.
What I still do not understand is that there are some very high temp anti-seize products out there that are not being used. I use to use pool o-ring lube silicon grease or silicone vacuum pump grease, when I was fastening bolts into Aluminum to prevent that electrical connection and fill the air gaps on the threads to remove the amount of space electrolysis could occur.
The navy learned the hard way back in the 80's with aluminum superstructures on top of a steel ship and salt water to try and save weight for new fuel economy standards on new ships being built.
Have the same thing going on in Upstate N.Y, just on the highways. Wait until folks need body work on the new ford trucks....
You are absolutely right!...the white powder on the threads was aluminum oxide, preferencial to iron oxide because of alu's place in the galvanic series..it locks the things together better than welding! Like I always say...you can't stop mother nature! ...but you can slow her WAAAY down! by using graphite or zinc filled anti-seize greases when assembling....but why should any manufacturer? When the bolts are new, at the factory they don't have any problem...more planned obsolescence by those pricks ...if there was an option where you could pay an extra $100 when you bought a new car, to have it fully assembled with anti-seize, I would! Anybody who assembles something where alu is in contact with iron, like bolts in alu or bolts through an alu bushing, and doesn't use anti-seize, should be slapped about the head and shoulders...MANY times. That is all!
@@ronplucksstrings7112 Great points! Can you suggest some products that we can buy at NAPA or some other retail shop to use for engines (high heat) or other applications? Much appreciated!
@@tsakaln1 For high heat, you can't beat a graphite/nickel filled anti-seize, because although greases will cook away, you'll never cook away graphite or the other particulates!...yes I said NEVER!
Permatec/Loctite Anti-Seize is one of my favorite products (no relation!)! Use is on just about anything with threads, including hot, like exhaust manifolds and headbolts! (When using it where fastening torques are specified, like headbolts, adjust specified torques down by 10-15% because of the "K-Factor"). Cheers
@@ronplucksstrings7112 Thanks for the tips and quick reply!
@@ronplucksstrings7112 I second that why can't these firms use anti sieze or whichever suitable I've currently got 5 header bolts to sort it's a headache but love the video persistence paid off
2 video's in one day making my day
My goodness you had me laughing so hard! "If I cry would you hold me" 😂😂
This is the videos that nobody wants to show, but you show us what really is to be the best tech on youtube
Just recently had a 5.4 l manifold job. Broke 5 studs off tried welding nuts on they just kept breaking on each one .. tried welding an 8 mm washer on first then weld a nut to the washer every one of them came out on first try.
This. The washer allows your weld much more real estate to hold onto the stud.
Ideal weld would be front and back of nut since this is not possible washer is next best option.
There is a newer message than yours written by a Ford mechanic talking about how you should grind the welder to the nut for a better weld
This is better than Days of our lives
Got to admire your persistence, good job.
this is a late comment but my hat is off to you! THAT was a testimony of a true professional mechanic. I have watched all kinds of videos about broken bolt removal and they all claimed the welded nut would not fail. I have had some tough ones during wrench turning since 1965 and I know broken/seized fasteners are not always a neat and clean fix. This one took the prize. Sometimes I get to wondering if after the heat there needs to be a total cool down, metal expansion/contraction is the mechanism when relying on heat. Maybe even a spray down with refrigerant to cryo freeze the fastener. I feel for you guys in the rust belt, repair cost rates should reflect these wars.
It was the Facebook prayer request. You got some pull, Son.
Walking away..... but you have to walk back.....that's persistence!!!! Remember, a Master has failed more times than a beginner has ever tried!!!
Do, or do not. There is no try - Yoda
thats how you become a master..a whole collection of failures and stubborn persistence till it works...
My "GO-TO" method is to weld a nut on with a TIG Torch. That system uses an electric ARC from a Tungstin Electrode in Argon Gas to shield the air from the molten puddle. The amperage is controlled by a foot peddle and you can hold the arc at low amperage on the stud without adding filler metal. Heat the stud and allow the heat to soak deep into the threads to expand the stud and break the corrosion structure up a little. Finally add 309 Stainless Filler Rod to weld the nut on. Spray with penetrant & follow the procedures that you did. TIG and 309 Filler material is usually a much stronger weld than MIG in such a small area. You can also reach down to a stud below the surface, heat it up, and add rod and build it up to above the surface, then weld a nut on, without affecting the hole and threads. The precise control of the TIG process makes this possible with some practice, but it takes some specialized equipment. Anyone with TIG equipment should try it. I once removed 7 broken studs from a Chrysler Slant 6 in about 40 Minuets. I have also removed a few hundred broken 5/16" Exhaust Studs form Aluminum Aircraft Cylinder Heads that are set in HELICOILS at the factory when new. And yes.... I was on the edge of my seat.... having been there may times.
Is it just me or does this ALWAYS happen to the bolt that's LEAST accessible???
Murphy's law, it's always the least accessible.
This bolt was extremely accessible
Yep it's called Murphy's Law.
nope not just you all but one comes out always gotta be one
And also facing in the wrong direction: eg jaguar x308 alternator bolt, 20 years old. Bolt extractor worked for me, took hours though
I stumbled on you channel can’t stop watching it. It’s good to see a mechanic that just likes to fix things correctly and honest. I’m a mechanic as well been doing it a long time like to see if there’s another trick for problems always learning
I think what made the difference was the last time you welded the nut on the stud the nut was further down allowing you to get more surface to weld on versus the other times you were only welding on the top of the stud. The last time you were able to weld a little on the sides of the stud. So I think that helped and made it a lot stronger.
Some people say first weld a flat washer to the stud and then weld a nut over it. It allows for more purchase. Just my opinion.
I think once you welded the nut on the bolt let it cool down then heat the body around the stud through the ports both sides of the stud without heating the stud,simple Eric deary me.😂😂😂
I've used an old syringe with a long slender needle to inject penetrating oil or other lubes into otherwise inaccessible spaces.
You might be surprised to find that there is almost always a tiny crevice or hole available to let in the penetrating fluid.
It's a lot neater than spraying all that stuff all over your work area hoping to get a few molecules of oil into the threads.
Dude you're funny as hell when you fight stuff like this.. I say an angry mechanic is one of the best comedians you'll ever hear.
Trick is to use a bigger nut and fill in the gap around the stud. Cold start on those machines getcha every time with a nut that size.
This was like watching a suspense movie bro. lmao
Exactly what I do...also works great for installing bearings into hubs that normally need to be pressed in. Heat the hub, freeze the bearing..
I bought a $16 stud removal tool from advance auto that work to pull the broken, rusty, seized up studs out of my 4.7 head. One of the best purchases I ever made. Attaches right to an impact and tightens up as you go. Never failed me.
You live a charmed life, never in 30+ years of doing this in Michigan did one come out that was stuck that hard
Wont be long until you hit 200K.. This channel has grown like wild fire over the past couple years.
I've used all of your methods over the years except the wax. I've welded to the stud before adding a nut so I could use a bigger nut. The oblong stud allows for penetration along side the stud. I used 11018 welding rod. Once the nut is welded on, heat it with a torch to keep it hot for a few minutes then slowly back the torch away to let it cool slowly. This anneals the metal so it isn't as hard and brittle. Do the same to soften the metal if you have to drill the stud. I've used liquid nitrogen to super cool the broken bolt.
That ladies and gentleman is the definition of patience and perseverance. Both qualities necessary to become a top level auto mechanic/technician. I think this is one of the most demanding trades, if you have a reliable guy that you deal with and he gives you a fair shake-treat him like gold.
I was greatly rooting for you from the very beginning! And so you know, and I have only told one other person this, my dad! You are beyond and an incredible, persevering and determined mechanic. You are, the master of mechanic masters oh great one! Lol! Awsome job! I am so enjoying watching you work!
Mrs. O did it by being there...."It was beauty that killed the beast".
I tell what got that stud out was an absolute refusal to be beaten. Been there myself and was willing that stud out with you. What a feeling though when they start moving. All the best and love the channel.
one of the best most intriguing episodes you have posted, Sir.
good job, as usual
THANK YOU SO MUCH!!! I've been saying they smell like crayons for as long as I've worked on cars, and no one knows what I'm talking about.
this is why I switched to cutting grass for a living
Well Duh you have to use gravity to pull the melted crayon down into the threads. You have to flip the truck up over on its side first.
No, you have to remove the engine, and reinstall it upside down. Then use the crayon
Obviously this only works in Australia
You three need professional help..... I was laughing hard!!
You used the wrong color crayon.
@@kweidnernc Right you are supposed to use a clear one.
What I have had luck with is welding a nut, heating the cylinder head, and then using an air duster upside down to freeze the bolt. Expansion and contraction science at its finest. Doesn't always work, but that goes for any method.
that was 26 minutes and 51 seconds of reliving every broken off rusted in can't get nothing on it cause you can't get to it but it has to come out bolt I've ever come across in my life and in the end the walk away is what always worked.
I would have used brake fluid better than penetrating oil
That mema is one smart lady she has taught you well! Great video love videos like this keep them coming!! Like they say patients is a virtue and you sir have more patients then anyone I’ve ever seen and not swearing too wow I would have said a few choice words on that bolt!! You the man Dr. O
Next time use a larger nut- like a 1/2 size so you can weld around to outer edge of the stud as well as the top- you will get a lot more strength that way.
The thing I learned with welding a nut on, is to let it cool completely before touching it. I went thru the same battle as you on a GM 5.3 and what won in the end was weld the nut on, then go do something else till its cooled off. Every time I tried it hot, the weld broke.
I agree. Letting the nut cool is very important on something like this, especially with the size of the bolt you were trying to remove. Eric, your videos make me feel like I'm back at work with the guys. I wish your videos were around 15 years ago when I was still working on my cars myself. Keep up the great work.
I’ve had good luck with the nut welding technique. I don’t cool it tho. Give it 1 min to cool then use hand tools and slowly work it back and fourth while still warm. Like you, I’ve also had to do it multiple times. Usually that slow careful back and fourth tears the aluminum in the first couple threads or two until it comes free. Good work! It’s not a job for the faint of heart.
Love the way he used the two versions of Aloominum and Aluminium to keep us Brits and you Yanks happy :)
Back in the day while working for a famous name muffler shop, we did a lot of VW Beetle mufflers. The attached directly to flanges that were cast into the aluminum heads secured usually by steel studs. The studs were typically rusted down to the thickness of pencil leads. The usual solution was to leave the nut alone, rusted to the stud, and heat the ears of the flange part of the head only. This made the flange expand and release the stud enough to where you could back the whole stud out with a socket/swivel/extension/ratchet. You had to work quickly and as soon as you felt it starting to bind up, stop and add a bit more heat and then repeat the process. I still have a few that I removed as "trophies" that always made people say "NO WAY !". Usually replaced the studs and nuts with stainless. This was why it took about 2 1/2 hrs to do a VW muffler held on by 4 nuts ! It worked about 90% of the time.
When watching a 28 minute video on removing a frozen bolt holds my rapt attention the entire time....And the Emmy goes to...SMAR LLC.
I admire your patience and determination not to let that bolt lick you. Who can say which method worked? I think the heat and air hammer is best. The crayon, water, or krill oil never got near the threads. Great vids, educational and entertaining. Stay with it partner, we're with you!
Patience is what did the trick.. patience and persistence.. another great video
I think Mrs.O kept him in shape.. lol.... YEAH, MRS. O!!!!!!
Great video.
You have more patience,perseverance and determination than anyone I ever knew
The crow is a very special bird that gives you insight when it knows that you need it. They intuitively understand what is going on around them, and are able to get our attention through sense of intuition while verbally getting our ears up. Crows will stay around and live close to a person that they love, for a very long time. I made this discovery about 6 years ago, and the crow that made it's debut in my life, is always around and has been for the whole six years, and she still helps me to realize things when I need to. Your crow, was helping you to realize that you needed to take a breather and think for a sec, and it worked. You realized her potential to you, and that is the reason why she is in your life.
I can’t believe I watched this man for 30m try multiple different ways to get a bolt out. And yes I learned a lot.
As odd as it sounds I've had really good luck with soldering flux. I like to apply some before I heat it then after heating i just keep slathering it on till its too cool to melt any more. One good thing about this method is once I go to weld a nut on I heat the bolt one last time and melt the flux off and its pretty clean to weld to. Weld a washer to the bolt first and use a nut thats bigger than the bolt would use this allows for some penetration below the top of the nut and make sure to weld it to the washer as well. I never allow it to cool too much after I weld and try to use the more directed heat than the torch provides as welding tends not to warm up the other surface as much
“Endeavor to Persevere.” - Chief Dan George from “The Outlaw Josie Wales”.
Did you use Ford blue crayola?
Those can only be used on a Toyota Crayola.....
I got a 98 f150 cheap and it was a landscapers truck. They also did snow removal and salting. The exhaust bolts were so bad we just pulled the engine out to work on it. Easier to check on other thing too while it was out. This rust bucked has been the bane of my existence. Your videos have given me the confidence to tackle these jobs. So far I've removed and reinstalled the engine, exhaust manifolds, both cats and full dual exhaust. Full rear drum kit, full front caliper kit and all new stainless fuel lines and brake hoses. She should just about be good enough to pass inspection. Damn Long Island winters tear vehicles up man. Love the videos.
I broke the bolt drilled it out into the water jacket then replaced the head on fords V10. I would say you did very well. Of course Mrs.O can’t be forgotten for her efforts!!!👍
You used the wrong color crayon. The green ones work every time. :-)
But only on the driver's side! You need those yellow ones for the passenger side!
"Something that should take 30 seconds turned into a 3 day ordeal."
So, like, every project I attempt then?
I put off replacing my kitchen faucet for a year. Figured everything was gonna go wrong. Finally did it this week without a snag. Even re-used the line and compression fitting for the dishwasher. I keep looking for leaks and really appreciate that it`s all good.
R D every thing I do it’s always 10 times longer than the average person😂
And not just wrenching ether !!!
Fixing other people's screw ups !!!
I have to do this exact this on my motorhome this week, only I suck at welding and have a shit welder, so watching you, I don't like my chances here
Can you get a broken bolt out with heat and a crayon?? Judging by the fact the video is Twenty-eight minutes long. No...
It's amazing how many times those stuck bolts release when the temperature seems to equal. This was a lesson in patience...well done sir.
It's because they cool at different rates less than from the heat that's applied.
Well said Dave. This guy is working on the stuff no one else wants to do. It looks like he’s in the north where weather reek havoc on all things metal. Make being a mechanic in the south look like child’s play. Thank you for giving me more confidence to do attempt tuffer jobs. Maybe I can thank you by giving you a guitar lesson or two. Watch now, Mr O is probably a rock star on the guitar 🎸 as well. 😅
Perseverance was the key.
And I wish there would be a sequel: removing the three stuck bolts from the other side.
I have used all the methods minus a candle or crayon. No offense Eric but this video made me feel better,lol. I'm not the only one who struggles with repairs like this. Once I was trying to get a half inch diameter radius rod bolt out that was broken and it took forever,lol. I had the frame so cherry red around the bolt to get it out that you could cook hot dogs on it. So after hours of soaking it with wd40 and then trying the quench method it finally came out. Every time something happens like this at my job I jokingly say to everyone Anti Seize is your best friend.😉
Amen to that. I anti-seize just about everything that goes into anything hot or aluminum.
busjockey1 I
"Some say he is still there, welding nuts to the bolt, only to break them off again."
i seen people have success by welding a washer on then a nut.
Perseverance did it my friend! Good job.
Omg I Used to work at a tire shop as the alignment tech and I would always say that about Volkswagen they smell like crayons and everyone would think I was crazy you are the only one that ever agree with me thank you. The shop is in the Nashville area where I live now but I am originally born and raised in Pennsylvania a.k.a. the rust belt and you’re correct working in the south of the mechanic and like every bolt is a unicorn. I also work in South Florida as a mobile mechanic for 10 years and they don’t know The struggles of rust anyway I love your channel keep up the new content
dedication and persistence is what got that bolt out of there, with a little support, love, and encouragement from the wonderful wife
If this was me doing the video there would have been about 25 minutes of: BEEEEEEEEEEEP ending with: Henry Ford.
The best method is to get someone else to do it.
Hey Mr. "O", your patience knows no bounds but I am also darn sure you used the wrong colour crayon.
When I got a problem I come to you for advice. Like the detail way you explain things. The one you trouble the wiring was the best. I used to do shaded work when it came to wiring. Thank You Sir, you have a great day, Sincerely The Southernhelfulk
I felt your pain. This is where most people would say you suck for not getting the job done in a reasonable amount of time. These are the same people who haven't broken a sweat in decades pushing keys on a keyboard while collecting a six figure salary. Many people don't give us the credit and appreciation we deserve, especially when it comes to jobs like this. Sacrificing so the customer doesn't have to spend 3,000 on a new head. Job well done Eric.
All because of a $12 bolt. Crazy huh?
Gee Eric - Everyone knows blue crayons lock the threads. Thank goodness you didn't use red!
Yellow next time?
South Main Auto Repair I thought green was the penetrating color? :-)
Next time you have this problem cut into the top and make a slotted groove in the end like your trying to make a standard screwdriver slot about 1/8 if possible so you will have more surfaces for the weld to bond and melt together and not just the outer edges of the surface, it also gives it just that much more of a gripping of the two surfaces to hold on to each other while your trying to turn them.. I used a dremel or high-speed cutting disk to make the slot and it worked so far every time. Just another way you might want to try. Hope it helps and btw love, the channel..Best wishes to you and your family.
Gene R M ,m
Idea for a regular segment...mythbusting auto repair tips?
No, leave that for Scotty and the other Eric.
I hit the like button because I just witnessed a master mechanic having a real struggle.
My "last resort" trick is to clean the bolt with a die grinder, etc and then grab a fender washer that closely fits the bolt. Drill a smaller one if necessary.
Grab like a 3/4 nut and tack it to the washer to hold it. (button magnets will hold it in place, but they DIE as soon as the welder heat nails them).
Put the welder on the highest power, and slow the wire feed... which puts more heat to it.
Using the oversized nut allows you to weld in around the threaded portion of the bolt (instead of just the broken end). After you've filled the nut with weld (circular motion), quench it with a sopping wet shop rag till it stops steaming.
THEN hit it with the tiger piss, kroil, blue crayon, or the special sauce from McDonald's, before it completely cools.
Let it cool off completely before trying anything.
I like the air hammer idea... Never tried that. Maybe it's worth leaving an indent in the nut, rather than welding it "full", so the tool can set in there.
Nice video as always!
The best way is to get it really hot, drop some THC extract on it, and then it doesn't matter if comes out.
Ishooter...I hate stupid drug jokes. Grow up, the 60’s was a long time ago.
I HATE such situations... there is no one solution. I've also tried the wax dance a couple of times with zero success. The thing I fear about wax is that it 'might' later seal out conventional penetrants. One thing you might try is a penetrant product called 'Mouse Milk'... it's actually been around forever, but rarely seen outside the aerospace industry. It's very good stuff; but as with anything, don't expect miracles. No affiliation... can be had on Amazon, comes in plastic squeeze bottles. Cool videos, thanks for sharing!
It's not the beat, the heat, the quench, the wrench .... nor is is the crayon .... it's the TENACITY.😁 I've got a little of that too. At the expense of my health, I'll keep at something until it submits, one way or the other! Swearing furiously at the top of my lungs, and throwing tools in every direction seems to help too. 😜
Nice work! Now I dub you, TENACIOUS EEEEEE. 🙌 👍👍😎🤘🤘
I honestly think it was all the mother effer's when the camera was off haha
That gets 'em every time! 😁
@@SmittySmithsonite amen to the original comment. I can't tell you how many times if done that exact thing. Had a starter bolt on an 85 mustang v8 (lower bolt faces the front of the car and you can only get to it with 2 feet of extensions), would not come out for almost 6 hours lol. I cursed up a storm on that one.
Yeah, I don't know how anyone can work on anything built after 1995 for 3 minutes without cursing the engineers who designed it. By minute 7, I'm throwing stuff, LOL. 😂
smitty, lol my ass off! I hear ya brother, i'm the same!
Wow! It's has the quality of "Waiting for Gogot" over it. Like a play Richard Burton and Elisabeth Taylor always longed for, but no writer was clever enough to write! The background sound, the crow and the dialoque! A thousand directors will weep when they see this!
What got it out was your persistence and thoroughness. You didn't go ape sh t on it. You got it out.👍👍👍👍👍