Turns out I'm a liar - Warhammer and hobby misinformation we've spread
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 9 พ.ย. 2023
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We've made 200 warhammer related Videos since the start of the channel. And through the years, there's been a few miniature painting and hobby tips we've gotten wrong, or just don't agree with anymore. And this video covers some of those mistakes we've made!
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The biggest lie was your starting warhammer for 50 bucks video I just sold both my kidney's and took out a mortgage and I only have 2 boxes of minis😭
So sorry. I am to blame for this
2 whole boxes?? 😱 Were they on special offer? 😂
@@harlequinems His kidneys were top drawer.
Were.
@@spastictuesdays340 they still might be in the top drawer
@@SquidmarMiniaturesI think he deserves a commission for his trauma!
HUGE respect for going back and correcting yourselves. You totally didnt have to call attention to your mistakes, but you did it for our benefit. Much love from the US ^^
So true! This basically skyrockets their consistency and credibility even more!
I've found airbrush primers need longer to harden (most are polyurethane, so not just normal paint). Just because it is dry to touch quickly, it's not strong. I prime the day before I want to paint something. Since started with that, no issues at all.
Same experience here. The coat seems to rub off just after drying, but if I give it time it's strong. However they do clog my airbrush very easily, and it's hard to find the compromise between enough thinner to flow well but not too much to be too runny.
@@marccendros3605I can't say I've really had that problem. I thin about 2 to 1, but then I use a decent nozzle size on airbrush for priming, as well as quite high pressure (40psi), so don't run into as many issues possibly?
100% been my experience as well. Giving them that extra day really helped to stop the primer rubbing off.
Been my exprience as well. First time I airbrushed primed and started painting the same day the paint just rubbed off. Waiter for like 2-3 days and it was super solid.
I use rattle can, but still wait until the next day to paint. Usually.
I feel the same about Greenstuff. It feels like it's been sitting in some warehouse for the past 20 years and they dug it out of the back reluctantly to sell it to hobbyists.
Yes spray can primers are solvent based, However there are plenty of solvent based primers that you can buy to use in your airbrush. You will also notice that the chemistry of the Vallejo primer is different (polyurethane) to their regular water based acrylic paints and will stick very well to non metal models. This is especially noticeable in cleanup of your airbrush: Vallejo primer needs to be thinned with the airbrush thinner and NOT water. Not sure why people have difficulties with the Vallejo primer; unless of course you use water to solvent to thin. If you do use water or solvent, the paint immediately begins to thicken up in the airbrush cup so DON'T use anything other than Vallejo airbrush thinner to thin their primer..... This is one of those times when the age old advice of USE THE SAME BRAND OF THINNER AS THE PAINT. really counts. Not all paints are the same. certainly not all acrylic paints are the same as some are water base, alcohol based or solvent based but they are still all acrylics.
The reason you don't have trouble priming in the winter is the same reason your wet pallette doesn't keep being wet long: dry air. In areas with higher humidity winter priming can be a problem.
Oooh! I live in an arid area. Finally a benefit!
Not "lies"at all. You learned more over time and you adjusted. I greatly appreciate you sharing this!
I love Vallejo primer through an airbrush. Has always produced an excellent result and consistent smooth surfaces.
It's pretty good. Smells funny though.
I can't be the only swede with potty humour that smiled at Mili-prutt, right? And how have I never thought about that.
I use the Vallejo primers with airbrush thinner and never have issues with it coming off. It's so much better value and easier to apply than rattle cans, I don't know how you've had a bad experience with it like this?
Same goes for me. I even prime a resin Chaos Demon prince with Vallejo airbrush prime and no matter how hard I rub it, the prime doesn't come off, and I'm doing it on the armor texture that it can actually came out easily
Same
Same here. Use the stuff exclusively and never had an issue. Perhaps it’s the climate they paint in? I also use a vortex mixer on the primer and give it a few good shakes after before it hits the airbrush.
Same here, i can spray easily 200 figures with 1 bottle of 200ml vallejo airbrush primer (so it is way better value than rattle cans) and i have never ever had paint fell of the figure. The only thing i can think of is that they don't let it dry long enough, because i always let it dry for atleast 30~60 minutes before painting something over it.
same here, I have never had an issue with it. on top of that it is way more value for your buck, much better control and you can do it indoors and not have to worry about weather (not temp but rain) Not sure if this was a comment bate but whatever you 2 do great work.
😂😂😂 That was like a rules update for the channel! Loved it! Keep doing what you do.
Woll there be quarterly Squidmar Errata now?
I really appreciate you went back and did corrections and revisions on your videos.
“Lies” as in things they’ve since found workarounds for/learned better ways to do since saying. THIS is why they’re the best, own up to any mistakes that weren’t even really mistakes to help their viewers and stay super transparent, even about sponsors’ products 👏🏽👏🏽👏🏽 much love from a new subscriber all the way over in the US ❤️❤️
I tend to use the Vallejo Airbrush primer by just applying it with a brush when it's too cold outside in the winter.
Yeah when used with a brush it is great ... well the black one at least. I also have a light grey one tried that a few times and that wasn't a success. I have no airbrush so no clue on that aspect.
Green stuff is probably your climate. I’ve had a pack for two years sitting in my drawer. Just used it today ironically and it’s perfect. Live in a very humid area soo...
On the issue of using your sable brush with Contrast/washes- the best tip I've heard is to moisten your brush first before dipping into the contrast. The water in the bristles keeps the wash from going up too far. This has seemed to work pretty well.
OMG I thought I was alone with the vallejo primer gloop! thought it was just getting too hot in aus. Been using Badgers STYNYLREZ Primer through my airbrush and never looked back
Only have a few hobby supplies, but have brushing this on and found it very good!
My main reason why I bought an airbrush was for priming during the cold and long winter inn Norway 🤣 Thank you for your honesty Emil. I have listen to all your lies and lived by them 🤣 I AM FREE NOW🤣🤣
Im thankful to be in a humid climate it does help a ton with this hobby.
IMO the Rustoleum flat primers are the best rattle can primers
They're cheap, give great coverage, and always come out matt
Agreed, black has never failed me, and grey is decent.
I do however have a can of white and for some reason it gives popcorn texture to whatever I have attempted to prime with it.
I have shook the crap out of it, warmed it in water baths, nothing seems to rectify the problem; it might just be a bad batch, but I have been thoroughly put off of the stuff and I get the chills whenever I look at the can.
@Ricksteady8 any brand white is going to cause issues just generally, white uses larger pigments. Make sure you're closer to what you're spraying as well so it isn't dry pigment landing on wet anything.
While that might be true, they are not really available in Europe from what I found (or atlest I my country). And personaly I (and I imagine am not only one) prefer when if they recommend more generaly available products.
@tuskam rustoleum is in every hardware/general store in the United States and its like $3 USD
06:55 You are correct...
- Rubber-based airbrush primers (Polyurethane) are mainly for Metal Minis since rubber sticks better to metal surfaces.
- Spray can Primers contain a low amount of a solvent named N-Butyl-Acetate and sometimes a small amount of Acetone. Both melts plastic just a liiiitle bit, which makes the black plastic particles (mixed into the solvent) melt into the grey plastic and essentially become one and the same piece as the grey plastic. I only use spray can primers for this reason.
1: If you soak your plastic parts in water & dish soap for 24 Hours and then...
2: ...rinse it clean under hot water; you can now drag a clean (de-greased) finger across the plastic and it should squeak loudly because it's so clean.
3: Let it dry fully (pref for 24H)...
4: ...then use a spray can primer.
5: Let the primer harden for 24H...
6: Win! The results are amazing. No joke; I can't scrape it off even with my fingernails.
- Note: I've only "stress tested" GWs primer like this. Vallejos is next, but i expect good results, i have a primed test piece drying here right now.
I do this with all my models and terrain and so far never experienced paint coming off.
I use Stynylrez primer and have never had an issue with it through an airbrush.
What is dry? This word.... never heard of it! *makes sad noises in Scotland*
I am only at point 1 and I cannot express my gratitude for being so frank about this!
8:33 Tamiya X21 is not a flat clear. This is to make gloss paints in the acrylic range (X-# paints, with XF-# which are flat) flat instead of gloss. The Flat clear is XF-86.
I prime my minis outside in the winter all the time.
In completely unrelated news, I live in an area where snow usually has evaporated by 8am in the 1/decade snowstorm.
Thank you so much for your honesty and this video! 😊
I just prime with a brush. I also varnish with a brush.
I know, such a rebel.
Keep doing what you do; thanks guys!
Really been enjoying watching the channel, was glad to see a new video today :-)
I 100000% agree with the vallejo primer comment. I was priming with my airbrush hsing their surface white and it took so many coats to stick and cover. Hours of priming
ca. 10:48 : Miliput likes water. Keep your fingers moist and it is easy to work with the stuff.
On the topic of Reaper paints, I think that has less to do with quality, and more to do with them being made for a specific style of painting that's just not the way you paint. This line was actually created specifically to make it easier for people to paint, including making them less opaque so you spend less time watering down your paints perfectly. It's actually kinda like the opposite of the Citadel "Dry" range, which are so thick it feels terrible if you try to try to use them to cover surfaces - that's just not what they're made for. ;)
Due to the way I paint, once I discovered Reaper paints, I basically just started replacing most of my other paints with it. It just made painting easier. :D
I like to say that the choice of paint brand is 90% personal preference. Because it's got so much to do with just how you, personally, paint. Pigment density, flow, etc. does matter, but when choosing between a dozen well established brands, it's almost exclusively down to just how you like to paint.
Found the Reaper exec. (nah jk..... ...unless?)
I love my Reaper paints - the only paints I've used for almost a decade!
@@MastaDRD LOL! That'd be a dream job, though! :D
@@stokerd1 Nice! I've been using them for about three years now, I think. Loving them! :D
Im glad im not the only one who hates the Vallejo airbrush primer. all these years I thought I was just using it wrong! Great video guys.
Reaper paints punching a wall rn
I would love to see a buyers guide video. So which colors (tones, brand), brushes etc. to buy at the beginning.
You did great guys and some of these 'mistakes' may have been due to that they were said a few years ago, so things change. Well done.👏👏👏👏
Weird your experience with Vallejo airbrush primer, I'm having excellent results with it and my airbrush. Maybe I got lucky.
Rattle can stuff literally bonds to the surface of the plastic, imagine a less extreme Warhammer glue but in paint. The way air brush primers work is they form a lather that contracts around the model so are kept on with that tension/ friction so you have to be super smooth with the priming.
I have a pallet with a lid, my pallet usually keeps paints moist for over a week
Thanks for the tips Squidmar!
Sometimes we learn things as time goes by, and realize what we said before wasn't true, or sometimes our opinions or the way we do things just change, or we gain more knowledge and insight. Sometimes we exaggerate what we say, and sometimes we formulate our words suboptimally. That's just the way of life. But nice of you to go back and clear up some stuff. ;)
I've also struggled with Vallejo primer through my airbrush...
However, the Pro-Acryl primer has been absolely fantastic!
Maybe you guys should re-visit airbrush primer, and compare the brands to find a favorite?
thats interesting, i have the best results by FAR with vallejo airbrush primer, the spray cans were the ones to rub off for me, interesting
Yeah I really like the Pro-Acryl Black, and the White is fine to get a zenithal prime. I do get peeling issues if I dont do 2 layers and let it dry for a day, but I might be thinning it too much.
Pro Acryl Black, Vallejo Mecha Black Primer and Molotow are my top 3 acryllic primers (in that order) for the airbrush.
The Mecha is really a different beast than the normal primer from Vallejo.
They won't use pro acryl, they are sponsored by vallejo .
@@karmaq8462then they should really try the mecha black primer
Love your videos guys. I just ordered some paints primers brushes and such going to start painting my very first miniatures for gloomhaven frosthaven and a few other games I just got this past week. Lets hope I learned something from your videos and don't mess up to bad lol.
I've had my wetpallet with paint on for about 3 weeks now. Only 2 colors have dried, Abaddon black and Moot green.
I watched this video yesterday while painting, and left my wet pallet with the cover off. When I came back to it this morning the paint was still useable! (Apart from being almost water-like in consistency lol)
So I'm other words, not useable;)
I always had problems using vallejo airbrush primer. That was also the first airbrush primer I used. I now use Pro Acryl. I find it works much better out of the airbrush.
I use a wet palette I made from toilet paper and baking parchment inside an old Warhammer basing sand box. I used Thunderhawk Blue today that I put onto the pallete 2 weeks ago and it was good to go after stirring it a bit. The metal colours however separate quite a bit because they draw the water from the toilet paper right through the parchement paper and even after mixing them you end up with heavily diluted paint. I had bad experiences with "professional" wet paletts but my trusty homemade palette works perfectly fine.
same here
Probably climate is their issue
It also depends on quality of barrier material and that material's perforation size which regulates permeation rates. The higher permeation barriers will have larger micro perforations, thus larger particulates can move through, so if a paint pigment molecule is small enough (or dense enough) it will make its way through the standing water both of the paint and the barrier and into the spongey material equivalent underneath designed to hold the water and aid the permeation process, so all the jank cheapout-in-wrong-places and ignorantly touted "DIY" products get thebpeople complaining about metallics, while higher quality DIY builds and products will be just fine.
Never had a problem with Badger airbrush primer
So on the wet palette, I use a homemade version, and my paints easily last several hours during a painting session. I close the box (a tupperware style box) and can continue the next day. The paint usually sort of splits, but you can just mix it with your brush on the wet palette and it is perfectly fine.
Also priming with airbrush is so frustrating, it clogs all the time!!
I absolutely love how this video is just ya'll two talking about issues and it's still just as fun and enjoyable!
i bought a whole air brush set up when you guys released that tips video about the priming during the cold. i thought i need one to prime durring the winters here lmao. i never had the courage to use the air brush for actual colors.
Stynelrez primer through the air brush is the best stuff I've ever worked with. It's the only primer I use for competition level paintings.
Love the quick "oh hey goobertown explain chemistry"
same for the priming with airbrush...bought it to not use cans but switched back to cans because primers never hold like the color from cans...
I fixed the Vallejo airbrush primer issue. I noticed after a few weeks? Months? It forms threads/worms of paint inside. So I took pantyhose and set it between the cap and bottle and it filters out that stuff, leaving me with usable paint. I prefer stynylrez ab primers myself, but you are not wrong in that it can be a little more fragile. I haven't seen it as bad as you mention, but it is certainly there. Still better than $20 cans of spraypaint from GW though.
I hate to disagree, but I found Reaper to be an IDEAL starter range for exactly the same reasons that you gave. Beginners don’t thin paints as much, so a thinner starting range (I sometimes don’t need to thin Reaper at all!) helps someone who is moving to new paints like citadel recognize the right consistency of paint when they thin
Plus, they have an equivalent to ice yellow, which more paint brands need to get.
I love my Reaper paints. The only issue I have is that the dropper bottles clog way too easily. Maybe I'm doing it wrong? Also, I haven't had any issues with Vallejo surface primer coming off the mini when I start painting, but I definitely clogs up my (admittedly very cheap) airbrush!
For airbrush primers I always use the vallejo one without any problem. No clogging and paint sticks well!
I find the Vallejo primer smoother, especially the white
I close my wet palette after painting and continue the next day without issues. Some colors split, especially metallics and mixes of many pigments, but many are still usable.
The wet pallet however once kept my paints wet for months. I opened it up and was still able to use paint on the paper
In Vancouver BC Canada it does lasts days.... but it does get too watery after a few days to a week.....
Omfg thank you. For two specific bits. 1) the wet palette bit, 2) Vallejo airbrush primer. I’ve been driving myself nuts with trying to persist with it and thinking that I’m just bad at air rushing. But no! It’s a crappy primer 😮😮
Akrylprimers behöver genomhärda ett bra tag efter att dom har "torkat", sen så försvinner vidhäftningsförmågan ganska fort ju mer man tunnar ut färgen.
Lösningsmedlet i färgen gör vare sig till eller från för vidhäftning, bindemedlet är det viktiga 👍
Vallejo Airbrush primer always peeled on me.
Stynylrez Airbrush primer can withstand me scratching it with a toothpick.
100% agree on airbrush primer. I used the same AK black and it just walks off the mini if you even look at it. I love AK paints, but switched to automotive rattle can plastic primer. Cheap and awesome.
Great video and reflection on stuff from the past! I feel like a video like this should be required after a certain number of videos made by any hobby content maker.
I live in Florida USA, and the wet pallet does last days. It's usually 85% relative humidity
not 25%? ;)
@@SquidmarMiniatures makes priming with a rattle can tricky
I always use ProAcryl Airbrush primer. Has never been anything but a joy to work with. Great finish, flows and covers well, reduces well so i can be horrible and just blast the mini with it and it fixes itself for me.
In the UK we have Halfords, who do grey primer which you can use on plastic, and it's basically magic. Nothing comes close.
Live in the mid parts of Sweden so slightly moister environment.
Just spent 10 days away from home and came home to a pallet of very paintable paints ready to use on my pallet.
"milliprut" 🤣🤣
I love that you have this approach of your work/channel: Taking time to correct/update what you said to help people make better choices.
You guys are truly honnest and humble enough to acknowledge even your small mistakes, and this is why you're awesome. Respect
Now you have to do another massive paint review again with all the new recent released paint lines! 🎉
A-oxide sculpt is nice, but you can also buy green stuff in separate parts instead of as a ribbon. The two mix really well too.
I never had any luck with vallejo airbrush primer, but Badger Stynylrez (sold as Ultimate in the uk) is incredible. By far the most durable I've tried. You can even sand it smoother if you're careful.
I use it for all my minis
This! Absolutely peerless primers in so many colours.
My go to primer currently is colour forge. It's incredible and they have a great colour range to choose from
My optimal situation for priming is when Its below freezing (colder the better it seems) out and I quickly step into my garage and spray the batch I'm working on.
Like they said in the video I always use reasonably room temp (warm) rattle cans and shake em really good.
I always get a buttery smooth prime job under these circumstances, when it is warm outside and the dew point is in the optimal range I sometimes get gnarly runs of primer from the *slightest* of over sprays.
There have been a few times I absolutely *blasted* the face of a model or a fine detail (to the point it was just a puddle of wet primer) in the cold and it kind of "shrink wrapped" as it dried and the detail was only softened by around 2-5%.
I instantly went looking for a Goober Town explanation :P
I've had great success with Vallejo Mecha Surface primer black. Just has to dry for at least a day before applying any paint on top of it.
I used to save colors on wet pallet for days at start. Never had a problem. After one years of miniature, same wet pallet, it started to dilute heavily every paint until make them unusable. Can't understand why
About vallejo airbrush primer, it clogges yes, but I army paint Horu Heresy, gloss varnish, oils, matt varnish and it is sealed very well, never had anything come off.
The mr.color primers are solvent based and super Nice, very good airbrush primer, and pretty easy to get all over here in Scandinavia. And the leveling thinner they make is so good, works with the ak real colors and Tamiya paints better than the thinners those brand make
Regarding the airbrush primer, It happens to me when using Vallejo's... Try priming with Molotow acrylics (yes, plain acrylic!) It works pretty well. Saw Marco Frisoni using them, tried and work wonders!
I just brush on the vallejo primer and let it dry overnight. It sticks so good i can only scrape it off with a blade.
Not sure how much of a difference it makes that i'm only painting resin printed minis.
I do think grading paint brands is super hard to do as some paints work better from other brands. Like I love how well the citadel metalics work compaired to the vallejo ones. Different colors also work better from some paint lines/brands then others.
It's also like incredibly subjective when it comes to the majority of paints tbh
@@nulatlas2137 True. It also depence on your skill level.
@Parasite98 it does, but I feel especially its influenced by what's simply available to you. For example I have vallejo, citadel, Tamiya, ak, reaper, and proacryl, army painter. I mostly use AK, and proacryls white etc...
I had the exact same issue with the AK primer. Literally primed it, put it on the table, bumped another mini against it and the paint came off.
The Vallejo primer however works fantastic! literally just a drop of flow improver and then straight up airbrush primer through the 0.4 nozzle and it barely clogs up (clean the tip now and then).
But their rattlecan primer also works great and I use that if I mass-prime minis after assembly.
I use Mr Surfacer 1500 in both bottles and in spray cans... And I use a cheap airbrush ($40)...for priming
using a sealable container for a wet pallet like those the GW scenics come in means you can close it up and the paint will stay good for days, thought the paint will eventually separate given enough time
ive accidentally left paint on my wet pallet and forgotten about it, and its so cold and humid in my house it was still wet 2 weeks later 😂
oh my god the vallejo airbrush primer is my living hell
The "airbrush primer" thing totally fucked up a huge work on resin, when I unmasked and all of the paint got stuck to the tape^^ I bought vallejo airbrush primer after I saw that tip. SO BIG LIE has costs ahah
Yeah airbrush primers .. Acrylic polyurethane...
It even says on the bottles to wait for 12 hrs before masking .
But that would also generally apply to touching
Citadel black and white primers are a godsend. Admittedly I've never used Vallejo's, but I don't even know where I could buy them.
as someone who builds gunpla and primarily primes parts with my airbrush i use MR.Hobby surfacer in a verity of colors. its solvent based so it sticks like rattle can paints. best primer ive used
I have personally had issues with the black Vallejo Primer spraycan, but I may have done too many passes over my first kit, I prefer to hand prime minis now in a neautral grey
My favourite brands to use are Vallejo Game Color V2, AK interactive 3rd Gen and Citadel, but it depends on what you're using them for, Game Color is very liquid but high pigment, AK is high pigment but feels waxy and sticks well, while citadel is very gel like and needs more watering down than other brands I've used, but for the most part they all work well
I’ve had great results brushing on Vallejo primer to reaper minis. Never used it out of an airbrush.
Ok, I'm painting now with 'two weeks ago forgotten paint' in the wet palette, no problem; if it has no mold it's useful [mold can has a great texture tho]