Okay! I'm a 42 yr old woman and THANKS to your video, I was able to DO THIS! And my microwave works now! I'm sooo super proud that I was able to fix this so my busy working husband didn't have to! And I was really scared after reading about capacitors and death and all of that! Definitely have to be super careful but I feel a lot more knowledgeable now. I still don't really understand what exactly I was doing with the tester and could use a bit more explanation on that. Also it would have been nice to see the readout on yours as mine doesn't beep just gives a digital readout, but I must have guessed correct on the ONE switch I replaced because it works now! Also the switch was blackened and corroded compared to the other 2 looking clean, so that was a clue about which one/s were bad as well. THANKS AGAIN!
Thank you so much for this great video. I followed your instructions and discovered that the switch contacts were corroded. I used a nail file to clean them and replaced everything. My 21 year old microwave is working again. I didn't want to give this microwave up because of the junk that they make today. I am soooo grateful for people like you who share their knowledge! 😍
You are awesome! I was able to fix my microwave (dirty switch contacts) in less than an hour at no cost. Thank you so much for taking the time to make and share this video. May the Lord bless and keep you.
Agreed, that was key! All my switches worked, but the contacts were a mess. Symptoms were, running while open then turning off when closed lol. I used a file, sandpaper, Deoxit 5 and simply put it back together. Works mint! I had zero room to work either. Mine is also a convection, rotisserie etc… I wasn’t getting a new one till I destroyed this one fixing it lol.
Definitely agree. I replaced the door monitor in my microwave only to have the fuse blow the instant I plugged it in. The normally closed middle switch was connected backwards. It should work now.
A BIG thank you John P. for helping me fix my wife’s fear of being microwaved to death by the constantly blowing fan motor when pausing to open the door. 👏👏🔥🔥🔥👏👏👏 TH-camrs appreciate people like you for extremely useful content and great videos! Thx again!
Don't open your door to pause the microwave.....hit PAUSE first to disengage the switches then open your door and you will have no more trouble. Pause is on that key pad for a reason...to shut the power off on the switches.
Thanks for the wonderful video. One of my switches was jammed inside. After taking it apart, it loosened up and clicked the way it was supposed to. One less appliance in the landfill!
An excellent video to troubleshoot the GE microwave door switches that could render the microwave inoperable. The video quality of this video is above an beyond most video on youtube, kudo to the author. He also went above and beyond just replacing these switches, he explained how to test them and even how to repair them when you don't have a spare laying around to fix it right away, as most of us don't. Great job, to the point, no nonsense repair video that everyone can follow the directions.
Thank you for this awesome video. I have the same model. Had problems with the turntable moving when the door was open and was not heating. This should fix the problem.
Thank you! I was able to fix my Kitchen Aid microwave because of your video. The lower latch went over center and I was able to open it up and flip it back in position.
thanks for your thorough explanation - glad to know I can just clean the contacts. I bought a new switch a few months ago and just got to doing it today. It's working good again. Using the tester was a really good tip so I wouldn't have to remove all of the switches. That plastic bracing holding the switches is not easy to work with and easy to break the tabs holding them in.
This worked for me - thanks! Two of my plastic switches seemed to be 'riveted' together so I cleaned the only switch I could open up and I got lucky !! ^_^
Success! Thanks to you, I got it done. Would not have even tried it otherwise. Luckily I didn't break anything prying those switches out or reconnecting the wires in such a tight space.😅
Worked!!! Thank you so much for posting this helpful video. I fixed it over the weekend and I’m Arts major :p Saved money and really boosted my self confidence!!
Great video! My Samsung microwave stopped working, the display would light up temporarily when the door shut hard or just randomly. Followed your steps and cleaned one of the switches and it's working again. Thanks!
Thank you so much for this video! Like so many people here we felt confident to try this repair and it worked like a charm. We bought a switch at our local electrical supply store for $4 and voila! Really thankful to you and wish you all the best :)\
I have two microwaves that have bad upper normally open switches. The button was not sticking up and it was always closed like the door was closed and they looked burned. The other two switches on both microwaves seem to be good. Parts are on order.
Man I dont want to sound all corny and weird but i watch a lot of videos to learn a lot of things and I will have to say this is one of the best videos I've ever seen He didn't talk My ear off and drive me nuts you kept to the point but you didn't go too fast perfect man that's how a video should be done be nice if some people would learn this is how you do it it not about showing how cool or smart you are it's about showing other people how to HELL JOB
My switch "broke" two years ago, so bought a new one. That solved the problem. The new one "broke" after two years but unfortunately cleaning the corrosion didn't work. However, I found the old "broken" switch in a kitchen draw, cleaned it of corrosion and what do you know, the old broken switch is now working. Thank you.
Thank you! I’ve been trying to diagnose and fix the problem. The crazy thing is I JUST replaced the handle cause that broke and now it’s not wanting to work 89% of the time
Not to blow this up.....but what typically happens to these switches, is that over time oils in the food being cooked becomes airborne inside the Microwave. This in turn ends up a sticky coating on the inside of the switch causing it to stick. Thus when the switch is in the engaged position, downwards since they get very sticky it sticks downward as if engaged in the ON position. Go get some Mineral Spirits (Paint Remover) and place in an open glass jar of your choosing. Next take a pair of plyers, such as needle-nose type and grab the long connector in the rear of the switch and just dip it into the Mineral Spirits and swirl around for a minute, remove and shake out any excess, I also blow into it and dry with say a paper towel. Problem solved by the solvent as it removes the grease that has accumulated inside the switch. Then they are back to normal. Save yourself the money, and the customers.
Thank you for the great video. Our microwave is working again. Our issue was the bottom switch. Looked like the contacts were fused together with solder - any thoughts on what would cause this? Our fuse was also blown and looked like high voltage went through it and splattered what looks like solder in the fuse tube. Thanks again!
OK...I fixed this problem in my GE Profile Microwave oven this way. There are three microswitches, one above the other. The two upper microswitches are wired to normally open and normally closed. The bottom one, which has that extra cam is not the one which usually fails. When the door is closed, they switch over. The problem is that if the door is not totally square to the front of the oven, or it twists, the switches have a chance to not activate consecutively and form a dead short which blows the breaker. I got sick of this problem and got a DPDT limit switch, cut a hole in the upper part of the grid over the removable plastic box for the wiring and mounted the switch in a way, that when the door is closed, the switch is activated. ONE SWITCH ACTIVATION CONTACT POINT, not TWO to throw the switch. That way the twist in the door is irrelevant. I then got male spade connectors and put them in the connectors for the NO and NC switch connectors and wired the outputs to the new switch NO and NC connections (4 points, total) with short lengths of wire. This switch breaks before make and that function is the secret to why it will reliably work. It works great. I used a limit switch from an old molding machine. A Square D switch or other type of 2p2t snap action switch could be used and bracketed into the front of the microwave neatly. The switches have to be rated at least 10 amps at 120VAC. If you do this, don't do it sloppy. Your wife will get pissed at you. This is an inherent design flaw in this microwave. The way I fixes retains the safety interlocks and eliminates the problem of door and hinge twist. You GE folks should take notes. Doing it cheap is not necessarily doing it OK....and yes, I am going to be smug about it.
I really like your video with no fluff. I changed the fuse, because the loss of power it worked for power but blew the new fuse too because there is other issue. I replaced all 3 door switches and again the fuse and sadly same result once you turn on microwave it blows fuse and loses power. Any additional suggestions and thanks for a clear video good job 👏👏👏
Terrific video. Thank you. I have GE microwave that powers on, counts down, and turntable turns. It just doesn’t heat up. Since the turntable turns does that rule out the door switches as the problem? Is the problem likely the magnetron? Thank you very much.
Hi @diy maniac, I tried to do this and broke plastic tabs on couple of it. I used electric tape to ensure it doesn't move. After connecting my microwave turned on but light is always on and is not turning on. It's also doing a whirring sound.
Easy repair with new door switches for our Samsung microwave. (I didn't have to remove the control board, only the switch mount.) Literally a 25 minute repair. $8.61.
hi... i was wondering where to set my multi meter to check for continuity and also what should it read if the switch is ok...please respond ...thanks brett
Microwave blowing the fuse once the door is opened or closed. Thought works for a while once fuse replaced. Do you think the door switches could be the problem?
Question I replace the control panel on my microwave. When I put the new one and close the door the light stays on and all the keys f work but it doesn turn and the fan doesnt come on. I put the old one back in and does the same thing. I Hold the control panel in my hand everything works. Any ideas? Thanks in advance
In my case, the door latch hook is broken on one side. My microwave is part of a dual unit with the oven. 14 yrs old and most likely not even available to buy now. The plastic right side hook broke off and the microwave won’t work, nor the light turn off. Any suggestions on how to fix this? Thank you!!
How do I tell if the switch is the problem with my microwave? The control panel still works fine, but when I open the door, if the light doesn't come on, my microwave won't work. It'll beep when I try to start it. I'm hoping this is all that's wrong, but how do I know for sure? Thanks.
I'm having a problem with my kitchen aid microwave. When I try to press start I get a door open error. Light does not come on when I open the door. When I close, pressing start I ga et door open error. I tried cleaning around the door sensor area, that didn't work. Any suggestion ?
If anyone knows, are there any other reasons besides the switches that a microwave could runs when the door is open, such us the control unit? Because in my case, all switches where fine and in position. Also, if I don't use the normally closed switch and just use the normally open switch to interrupt the phase in the whole circuit, are there any dangers?
WHen pressed the Upper switch (video @ 4.22 min) manually when power is on, gave small spark and MCB tripped. After resetting MCB now there is no power showing in microwave. what could be the problem. is switch short circuited?
You blew the 250V 20A fuse. I took my microwave down and completely disassembled it before watching this video. I hit one of the switches manually and it sparked and blew the fuse. I knew because everything lost power. It’s a good thing the fuse blows because it protects more expensive components. I think the switches are setuo to trigger at the same time so if you just hit one, it can cause issues. That’s probably why some ppl have blown fuse and bad switches because one switch is sticking or not flowing electricity. Not sure exactly why it sparks though, maybe it’s drawing too much power because other switches should be open or closed simultaneously so a circuit is connected or not connected that shouldn’t be.
hello, i have a relatively new GE microwave #JVM6172SK4SS. i have heard from some local companies that working on the microwave can kill me even when unplugged due to the capacitor. is that something will have to worry about with this repair or is that an entirely different part of the microwave?
I have been struggling to understand this process of testing the switches on my microwave. At first I thought none of the switches were working but then I realized my multimeter NEVER makes any beeping noises! So some multi meters are made without a beep option!? Is this possible? It's frustrating because all the microwave repair videos I've watchef, people used beeping multi meters. Uugh
@@DIYManiacJohnP thank you for the reply. I understand what a closed circuit means (a closed loop allowing the electricity to flow). But without a beep, digitally, what in the digital display tells me the digital equivalent of the meter beeping? Like...0.2? Maybe im in over my head. I took chemistry & physics (did well) but I'm not familiar with using multi meters. Sorry. I don't want to take too much of your time
Mine shows something low for continuity and a 1 for no continuity. You can always check by testing something you know has continuity like by touching the 2 voltmeter leads together or 2 ends of the same wire, 2 grounded points, etc. I can’t remember where I put my voltmeter, it’s a cheap one, but I miss it because it has the audibke continuity test which I’ve since realized I prefer and love,
As I said in my video, some of the switches are normally in a close state while others are normally in an open state you will have to check as I showed in my video continuity. But again, as I showed him my video you first need to identify the placement of the old switches. Now that you’ve already removed them that will be harder to do.
@DIY Maniac John P I was able to check other top switches with multimeter on continuity, i noticed the bottom one is in faulty but I can't remove it from the conectors! It is stuck in and I don't wanna break the plastic connector cover, any solutions how to remove that bottom connector from the swtich and replace without breaking that connector cover? Thanks
@@DIYManiacJohnP I already tried to lubricate 2 weeks ago with WD-40 and also WD-40 Silicone lubricant, none of them had an effect on removing or separating the terminals from these plastic covers! The microwave has been open apart for a long time now! More than a month! The issue is only with the botton one which is the one that needs replacement, others were easily removable. Idk what else to try...
@@seekfactsnotfiction9056 at this point the only uptown you have to is to pull full strength. You could also try prying it off with a flat head screwdriver
@@DIYManiacJohnP Ok thnx will try to do that. Are those plastics neccessary if they are torn apart? Can i still replace the switch if the terminal covers become useless?
@@DIYManiacJohnP yes of course. The outlet has power, breaker never tripped. I bought a new fuse, and tested the three switches as shown in this video. It’s a 4 year old LG microwave.
Okay! I'm a 42 yr old woman and THANKS to your video, I was able to DO THIS! And my microwave works now! I'm sooo super proud that I was able to fix this so my busy working husband didn't have to! And I was really scared after reading about capacitors and death and all of that! Definitely have to be super careful but I feel a lot more knowledgeable now. I still don't really understand what exactly I was doing with the tester and could use a bit more explanation on that. Also it would have been nice to see the readout on yours as mine doesn't beep just gives a digital readout, but I must have guessed correct on the ONE switch I replaced because it works now! Also the switch was blackened and corroded compared to the other 2 looking clean, so that was a clue about which one/s were bad as well. THANKS AGAIN!
Thank you so much for this great video. I followed your instructions and discovered that the switch contacts were corroded. I used a nail file to clean them and replaced everything. My 21 year old microwave is working again. I didn't want to give this microwave up because of the junk that they make today. I am soooo grateful for people like you who share their knowledge! 😍
Thank you! I was able to fix my microwave because of your video. You made my fear and discouragement disappear.
I’ve had to replace switches twice on our Bosche microwave. This video is priceless. Thank you for posting it.
Thank you for watching
Fixed my microwave for $5. Any women out there feeling intimidated by this type of repair, watch this video. He’s great.
😀
You are awesome! I was able to fix my microwave (dirty switch contacts) in less than an hour at no cost. Thank you so much for taking the time to make and share this video. May the Lord bless and keep you.
Thank you so much for your kind words and for watching my video
Thank you. Got my microwave fixed because of you!
Thank you for showing which switches were open vs closed!! No other video did that but yours
Agreed, that was key! All my switches worked, but the contacts were a mess. Symptoms were, running while open then turning off when closed lol. I used a file, sandpaper, Deoxit 5 and simply put it back together. Works mint! I had zero room to work either. Mine is also a convection, rotisserie etc… I wasn’t getting a new one till I destroyed this one fixing it lol.
Definitely agree. I replaced the door monitor in my microwave only to have the fuse blow the instant I plugged it in. The normally closed middle switch was connected backwards. It should work now.
A BIG thank you John P. for helping me fix my wife’s fear of being microwaved to death by the constantly blowing fan motor when pausing to open the door.
👏👏🔥🔥🔥👏👏👏
TH-camrs appreciate people like you for extremely useful content and great videos!
Thx again!
Thank you so much for your kind words and watching my videos
Very good explanation. I have replaced my micro switch before but learned something new from your video to make it easier. Much appreciated.
Thanks man! The local appliance guy wanted to charge me $200! Such a simple fix. I had to file down the contacts like you demonstrated.
Don't open your door to pause the microwave.....hit PAUSE first to disengage the switches then open your door and you will have no more trouble. Pause is on that key pad for a reason...to shut the power off on the switches.
exactly, if you don't pause it creates that arcing that corrodes the contacts
@@blackmangopit Right.
Thanks for the tips. Going to give a try to fix my microwave door switch right now.
Thanks for the wonderful video. One of my switches was jammed inside. After taking it apart, it loosened up and clicked the way it was supposed to. One less appliance in the landfill!
Thank you! I was able to fix my microwave faster than putting together one of my kid's toys.
Thank you, got a samsung and popped 5 fuses everytime I plug it in. Cleaned the faulty switch and it is back to life.
Fixed our microwave in less than an hour ! Thanks for the video
An excellent video to troubleshoot the GE microwave door switches that could render the microwave inoperable. The video quality of this video is above an beyond most video on youtube, kudo to the author. He also went above and beyond just replacing these switches, he explained how to test them and even how to repair them when you don't have a spare laying around to fix it right away, as most of us don't. Great job, to the point, no nonsense repair video that everyone can follow the directions.
Wow, probably the most nicest comment I’ve ever ever gotten
Thanks very much! Really excellent demo and instructions. 😊
Glad it was helpful! and thank you for watching
Great job!!! Thanks for the instructional video. Super well done.
It's so helpful to fix my microwave oven. Thanks so much !!!
Thanks! There was a door close error. Your video was easy to follow. I removed and replaced the wires then tested the microwave. It worked!
This helped me fix my microwave, much appreciated.
Thank you for this awesome video. I have the same model. Had problems with the turntable moving when the door was open and was not heating. This should fix the problem.
Thank you so much for this great detailed video!!!
Awesome tutorial on how to fix the microwave. I just followed your steps and fixed mine. Keep up the great content 👏
Thanks for watching
Thank you! I was able to fix my Kitchen Aid microwave because of your video. The lower latch went over center and I was able to open it up and flip it back in position.
Thank you so much for this video!! It was very useful and precise!!
thanks for your thorough explanation - glad to know I can just clean the contacts. I bought a new switch a few months ago and just got to doing it today. It's working good again. Using the tester was a really good tip so I wouldn't have to remove all of the switches. That plastic bracing holding the switches is not easy to work with and easy to break the tabs holding them in.
Glad the video helped and thank you for watching
This worked for me - thanks! Two of my plastic switches seemed to be 'riveted' together so I cleaned the only switch I could open up and I got lucky !! ^_^
Success! Thanks to you, I got it done. Would not have even tried it otherwise. Luckily I didn't break anything prying those switches out or reconnecting the wires in such a tight space.😅
Worked!!! Thank you so much for posting this helpful video. I fixed it over the weekend and I’m Arts major :p Saved money and really boosted my self confidence!!
So happy my video helped
Thank you very much John! Cheers from Indonesia.
Thank you so much was able to replace switch easily. I didn't unplug the control panel wires I was able to turn it on side and rest it in the opening.
Fantastic video!!! Well explained and videotaped.
Thank you for the kind words
Thanks. Just installed 3 switches. Seems to work. 😀
Great video! My Samsung microwave stopped working, the display would light up temporarily when the door shut hard or just randomly. Followed your steps and cleaned one of the switches and it's working again. Thanks!
Great talent... I will try it on mine. Thx
awesome tutorial , details, explanations, awesome, fixed my topped switch, thank you
Thank you for watching
Thank you so much for this video! Like so many people here we felt confident to try this repair and it worked like a charm. We bought a switch at our local electrical supply store for $4 and voila! Really thankful to you and wish you all the best :)\
Thank you for watching for the kind words
This fixed my problem!!! Thank you
Very nice tutorial. Thank you!
This video is amazing thank you
Thank you for watching
I have two microwaves that have bad upper normally open switches. The button was not sticking up and it was always closed like the door was closed and they looked burned. The other two switches on both microwaves seem to be good. Parts are on order.
Thank you! Fixed in 20 mins..
Man I dont want to sound all corny and weird but i watch a lot of videos to learn a lot of things and I will have to say this is one of the best videos I've ever seen He didn't talk My ear off and drive me nuts you kept to the point but you didn't go too fast perfect man that's how a video should be done be nice if some people would learn this is how you do it it not about showing how cool or smart you are it's about showing other people how to HELL JOB
Wow!! Thank you so much
Excellent! Thank-you!
Glad it was helpful!
Good stuff brother
My switch "broke" two years ago, so bought a new one. That solved the problem. The new one "broke" after two years but unfortunately cleaning the corrosion didn't work. However, I found the old "broken" switch in a kitchen draw, cleaned it of corrosion and what do you know, the old broken switch is now working. Thank you.
Thank you for the video. It really. Helped me out.
Thank you! I’ve been trying to diagnose and fix the problem. The crazy thing is I JUST replaced the handle cause that broke and now it’s not wanting to work 89% of the time
Thank you for watching
Great job. Thank you.
Thank you for watching
Not to blow this up.....but what typically happens to these switches, is that over time oils in the food being cooked becomes airborne inside the Microwave. This in turn ends up a sticky coating on the inside of the switch causing it to stick. Thus when the switch is in the engaged position, downwards since they get very sticky it sticks downward as if engaged in the ON position. Go get some Mineral Spirits (Paint Remover) and place in an open glass jar of your choosing. Next take a pair of plyers, such as needle-nose type and grab the long connector in the rear of the switch and just dip it into the Mineral Spirits and swirl around for a minute, remove and shake out any excess, I also blow into it and dry with say a paper towel. Problem solved by the solvent as it removes the grease that has accumulated inside the switch. Then they are back to normal. Save yourself the money, and the customers.
Thank you for the great video. Our microwave is working again.
Our issue was the bottom switch. Looked like the contacts were fused together with solder - any thoughts on what would cause this? Our fuse was also blown and looked like high voltage went through it and splattered what looks like solder in the fuse tube.
Thanks again!
Great video. Thank you.
OK...I fixed this problem in my GE Profile Microwave oven this way. There are three microswitches, one above the other. The two upper microswitches are wired to normally open and normally closed. The bottom one, which has that extra cam is not the one which usually fails. When the door is closed, they switch over. The problem is that if the door is not totally square to the front of the oven, or it twists, the switches have a chance to not activate consecutively and form a dead short which blows the breaker.
I got sick of this problem and got a DPDT limit switch, cut a hole in the upper part of the grid over the removable plastic box for the wiring and mounted the switch in a way, that when the door is closed, the switch is activated. ONE SWITCH ACTIVATION CONTACT POINT, not TWO to throw the switch. That way the twist in the door is irrelevant. I then got male spade connectors and put them in the connectors for the NO and NC switch connectors and wired the outputs to the new switch NO and NC connections (4 points, total) with short lengths of wire. This switch breaks before make and that function is the secret to why it will reliably work.
It works great. I used a limit switch from an old molding machine. A Square D switch or other type of 2p2t snap action switch could be used and bracketed into the front of the microwave neatly. The switches have to be rated at least 10 amps at 120VAC. If you do this, don't do it sloppy. Your wife will get pissed at you.
This is an inherent design flaw in this microwave. The way I fixes retains the safety interlocks and eliminates the problem of door and hinge twist.
You GE folks should take notes. Doing it cheap is not necessarily doing it OK....and yes, I am going to be smug about it.
Thanks for showing thanks
Thank you for watching
I really like your video with no fluff. I changed the fuse, because the loss of power it worked for power but blew the new fuse too because there is other issue. I replaced all 3 door switches and again the fuse and sadly same result once you turn on microwave it blows fuse and loses power. Any additional suggestions and thanks for a clear video good job 👏👏👏
Terrific video. Thank you. I have GE microwave that powers on, counts down, and turntable turns. It just doesn’t heat up. Since the turntable turns does that rule out the door switches as the problem? Is the problem likely the magnetron? Thank you very much.
Hi @diy maniac, I tried to do this and broke plastic tabs on couple of it. I used electric tape to ensure it doesn't move. After connecting my microwave turned on but light is always on and is not turning on. It's also doing a whirring sound.
Easy repair with new door switches for our Samsung microwave. (I didn't have to remove the control board, only the switch mount.) Literally a 25 minute repair. $8.61.
hi... i was wondering where to set my multi meter to check for continuity and also what should it read if the switch is ok...please respond ...thanks brett
Microwave blowing the fuse once the door is opened or closed. Thought works for a while once fuse replaced. Do you think the door switches could be the problem?
Question I replace the control panel on my microwave. When I put the new one and close the door the light stays on and all the keys f work but it doesn turn and the fan doesnt come on. I put the old one back in and does the same thing. I Hold the control panel in my hand everything works. Any ideas? Thanks in advance
In my case, the door latch hook is broken on one side. My microwave is part of a dual unit with the oven. 14 yrs old and most likely not even available to buy now. The plastic right side hook broke off and the microwave won’t work, nor the light turn off. Any suggestions on how to fix this? Thank you!!
Any hints on how to disassemble the door on this model? I have a broken wire right at the hinge pivot point.
How do I tell if the switch is the problem with my microwave? The control panel still works fine, but when I open the door, if the light doesn't come on, my microwave won't work. It'll beep when I try to start it. I'm hoping this is all that's wrong, but how do I know for sure? Thanks.
Well, I had it working briefly, but it tripped the breaker a few times and now I'm back to square one. 🤷♀️🤦♀️
I'm having a problem with my kitchen aid microwave. When I try to press start I get a door open error. Light does not come on when I open the door. When I close, pressing start I ga et door open error. I tried cleaning around the door sensor area, that didn't work.
Any suggestion ?
If anyone knows, are there any other reasons besides the switches that a microwave could runs when the door is open, such us the control unit? Because in my case, all switches where fine and in position. Also, if I don't use the normally closed switch and just use the normally open switch to interrupt the phase in the whole circuit, are there any dangers?
WHen pressed the Upper switch (video @ 4.22 min) manually when power is on, gave small spark and MCB tripped. After resetting MCB now there is no power showing in microwave. what could be the problem. is switch short circuited?
You blew the 250V 20A fuse. I took my microwave down and completely disassembled it before watching this video. I hit one of the switches manually and it sparked and blew the fuse. I knew because everything lost power. It’s a good thing the fuse blows because it protects more expensive components. I think the switches are setuo to trigger at the same time so if you just hit one, it can cause issues. That’s probably why some ppl have blown fuse and bad switches because one switch is sticking or not flowing electricity. Not sure exactly why it sparks though, maybe it’s drawing too much power because other switches should be open or closed simultaneously so a circuit is connected or not connected that shouldn’t be.
would any of these switches cause the circuit breaker to pop ?
I didnt take a photo.. idont know the order of the switches
Removing the control panel on my Samsung isn't same as yours unfortunately
hello, i have a relatively new GE microwave #JVM6172SK4SS. i have heard from some local companies that working on the microwave can kill me even when unplugged due to the capacitor. is that something will have to worry about with this repair or is that an entirely different part of the microwave?
Always exercise caution. But with this repair you are not near any dangerous components
I have been struggling to understand this process of testing the switches on my microwave. At first I thought none of the switches were working but then I realized my multimeter NEVER makes any beeping noises! So some multi meters are made without a beep option!? Is this possible? It's frustrating because all the microwave repair videos I've watchef, people used beeping multi meters. Uugh
The audible continuity test is merely a resistance (ohms) reading that gives audible signal for a closed circuit
@@DIYManiacJohnP thank you for the reply. I understand what a closed circuit means (a closed loop allowing the electricity to flow). But without a beep, digitally, what in the digital display tells me the digital equivalent of the meter beeping? Like...0.2? Maybe im in over my head. I took chemistry & physics (did well) but I'm not familiar with using multi meters. Sorry. I don't want to take too much of your time
Any reading in ohms is a closed loop. And open loop will not return a resistance reading
Mine shows something low for continuity and a 1 for no continuity. You can always check by testing something you know has continuity like by touching the 2 voltmeter leads together or 2 ends of the same wire, 2 grounded points, etc. I can’t remember where I put my voltmeter, it’s a cheap one, but I miss it because it has the audibke continuity test which I’ve since realized I prefer and love,
@@tomgrobelny Thank you👍
Thanks for the video. Can you do this without discharging the capacitor? If yes, why is it safe? Other places say you should do that first. Thanks!
This is just the control panel. It does not go anywhere near the capacitor or the magnetron
Thank you sir! I will try to do that to fix my microwave.
I replaced my switches and it comes on now and the turn plate spins but now it doesn't heat?
I would double check your replacement switches and make sure you match the right normal state position
@@DIYManiacJohnP what exactly do I have to do for that?
As I said in my video, some of the switches are normally in a close state while others are normally in an open state you will have to check as I showed in my video continuity. But again, as I showed him my video you first need to identify the placement of the old switches. Now that you’ve already removed them that will be harder to do.
@@DIYManiacJohnP got it. Thank you so much for explaining that
Hey great! I'm having trouble shoving the tab contacts (and their holder bit) onto the switch now I have a new switch though, any suggestions?
@DIY Maniac John P I was able to check other top switches with multimeter on continuity, i noticed the bottom one is in faulty but I can't remove it from the conectors! It is stuck in and I don't wanna break the plastic connector cover, any solutions how to remove that bottom connector from the swtich and replace without breaking that connector cover? Thanks
They can be sticky and difficult to get off my best advice is to pull harder. You can also try to get some solvent in it to lubricate and clean
@@DIYManiacJohnP I already tried to lubricate 2 weeks ago with WD-40 and also WD-40 Silicone lubricant, none of them had an effect on removing or separating the terminals from these plastic covers! The microwave has been open apart for a long time now! More than a month! The issue is only with the botton one which is the one that needs replacement, others were easily removable. Idk what else to try...
@@seekfactsnotfiction9056 at this point the only uptown you have to is to pull full strength. You could also try prying it off with a flat head screwdriver
@@DIYManiacJohnP Ok thnx will try to do that. Are those plastics neccessary if they are torn apart? Can i still replace the switch if the terminal covers become useless?
@@seekfactsnotfiction9056 the plastic is just a shield around a standard female blade terminal
I’ve replaced my fuse. Nothing. Tested all three switches. Nothing. What else could it be? Argh!
What symptoms are you having?
One day it just had no power, sound or lights. Basically dead
@@TheOrganizingAgency let’s start at the basics even if it seems silly. Did you verify there is power to the receptacle that the microwave plugs into?
@@DIYManiacJohnP yes of course. The outlet has power, breaker never tripped. I bought a new fuse, and tested the three switches as shown in this video. It’s a 4 year old LG microwave.
will these companies actually sell parts to people?