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FixIt006 - Microwave Door Switch Repair. GE Model JVM3160RF3SS
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 10 ต.ค. 2021
- Sixth FixIt video in the series. We found that our microwave would trip the breaker when opening the door. It turned out that one of the door interlock switches was bad and was able to be replaced for a few dollars instead of buying a new microwave! One thing to note, at the end when the unit was plugged back in and the door closed, there was a humming sound coming from the unit, like the magnetron was powered on, even though it wasn't set to be on. An internet search provided an answer: Sounds like one of the board relays is stuck open! Solution: Replace the board, which is the subject of FixIt007!
Note Update: Some viewers have observed in the comments that some switches appear to have been switched (Normally Closed - NC and Normally Open - NO), but I don't recall that is what I did, although it's possible. The unit works as it should. It's always good to double-check that your switch replacements are the exact type of switch that you're taking out. Thanks for watching! If these videos help you, please like and subscribe and share with your friends!
For those watching - The video creator put the wrong switch in that spot. You need the NC (Normally closed) switch there, he installed a NO (Normally open) switch in that position, which is dangerous. the two end switches are the NO (Normally open). I'm not sure how is microwave is working. Look at the shape of the switch between his old one and the one in the box, they are completely different.
Thanks for watching. Thanks for the comment, but all switches were replaced with identically-numbered switches and the unit has been functioning perfectly. Good luck with all your DIY repairs!
@@fixitwithcronk1074you put the wrong switch in. You put a normally open switch in when it should’ve been a normally closed. This was very very obvious.
I agree. I've viewed many sites and viewed switches that are NO and NC. The one switch he handled had a prong closer to the top. The other switch he handled had a prong closer to the bottom. Different switches. One NO; One NC. It was obvious!
Thanks for watching! Perhaps the switches are different for this model of microwave? As I said, this has been functioning properly since the repair. Good luck with all your DIY repairs!
@@fixitwithcronk1074Thanks for taking the time to make the video, but literally @7:20 of the video the gunked up old switch is different from the one you put in. Same part number yes, but one is NO and the other is NC.
Thank you so much for the easy instructions to get this fix. I was looking at replacements when i thought of looking up common issues and found your video. Thanks for saving me $300.
You are welcome!
I have a 2004 Whirlpool and your instructions worked for it too. It took me less than two minutes. Thanks a bunch!!!
Glad it helped! Thanks for watching and the comment!
Thank you very much. This video helped me fix our microwave. One doesn't realize how useful a microwave is until you don't have one. thanks again, very helpful, Matt San Diego CA
Thanks for watching! I'm really glad it helped you! Good luck in your future DIY projects!
Thank you for showing how to take the switch out. No other videos show this part in detail so thank you!!!
Glad it helped! Thanks for watching and good luck with your DIY Repair!
I couldn’t figure out what was wrong at first! I kept changing out the fuse and it would keep kicking breaker right when you would start the microwave! Saving your video to use for future assistance for my maintenance job here in Portland Oregon! Thank you for your video 🙌
oh Wow! I'm glad it can help you. Thanks for watching!
Really appreciate you taking the time to make this video!
Thanks for watching! Good luck with your DIY repairs!
Thank you so much for this video. I followed it exactly as demonstrated and fixed my microwave with parts from Amazon for under $10! Microwave works great again.
Thanks for watching! So glad it helped you. Good luck in your DIY projects, and please ask your friends to "Like" and "Subscribe" too! :)
Thanks...big help. We bought the set of 3 switches on Amazon...set $11 total. GE switches around $35 to $44. Only 1 switch was bad. Hubby changed it out. Working.
Nice work! I'm glad it helped! Thanks for watching!
Thank you! This is one of the best how-to videos I have ever seen. We were able to follow these directions and replace a fuse, instead of replacing a microwave.
Hi! Thanks for watching, and for the very kind comment. I'm very glad you were able to troubleshoot your problem by watching this video. Good luck with your DIY repairs!
Thank you so much for this video! It solved our problem and saved us so much money!
Thanks for watching! I'm really glad it helped! If you haven't done so already, please subscribe to the channel for more DIY tips!
Great video. It helped a bunch. The first time I took this apart I winged it. I ended up breaking half of the plastic tabs on this cheap microwave.
Thanks for watching. Yes, that's the trouble with us DIYers - sometimes in taking things apart, things get broken, but hopefully you were able to get the replacements you needed. Good luck with your DIY repairs!
Thank you so much. I could diagnose and fix my microwave after watching just a bit of your video.
Thanks for watching! I'm so glad it helped you! Good luck with your future DIY repairs!
Great video! This and a $6 part fixed our problem and saved us a $119 service call
Great! I'm really glad it helped you. Thanks for watching!
Thanks much, replaced the main fuse, went dark again as soon as I tried to heat water. Checked the 3 switches and the middle one was not working. It seemed gunked up, so we cleaned it and it seemed to work well. Reinstalled with another fuse and all seems good for now, total cost of 2 fuses, $6. Great video, thanks!
Thanks for watching! It's great that you were able to fix it - that's the idea of the DIY: if we can save money and fix what we have, we won't throw things away if there's still life in it!
Appreciate that, want to add that we did replace the switch also. When we opened the door while running, it still tripped the fuse. Replaced the switch and all is perfect and took like 10 minutes the last time as we got so good at it.
@@fixitwithcronk1074 Seems to have gone out again. Will put the extra switch I have in and try to cancel before opening the door in the future. If it happens again, may need to replace the microwave. Thanks for all your help.
Yes, it's hard to get in the habit of hitting "Cancel" before opening the door, but that can really help since the microswitch is meant as a "backup" to that (although they don't tell you that in the instructions!) Good luck with your DIY Repairs, and thanks for watching!
Fixed my microwave 🙌🏼Thank you so much! Now do the GE icemaker! For the French door fridge!! 😊
Thanks for watching! Glad it worked for you! Good luck with your other repairs!
@@fixitwithcronk1074 THANKS! Appreciate it!
Thanks for detailing where all the screws are to remove and access the guts. Other videos presume confidence where new DIYer manhandles and possibles breaks plastic.
Thanks for the comment! I'm hoping these videos reach the basic DIY-er with helpful hints!
Very helpful. My door switch got stuck and was able to fix it. Thx a lot.
Really glad to hear it helped! Thanks for watching!
Awesome video! Also helped me to avoid buying a whole new microwave!
Thanks for watching! I'm glad it helped you - ours is still going strong! Good luck with your DIY repairs!
it worked for me. replace switched with this "Microwave Oven Door Switch Replacement Part, 16A 125VAC, KW3AT-16, Normally Open - 1Pc " from amazon.. This switch is called normally open, one I replaced. Then there are other switch which is normally closed. They all look very identical and absolutely no way to tell but pin that sticks out for normally open is at lower end and for normally closed is at upper end.
Thanks for watching and posting the comment!
Microwave, works again!!! Great video, thanks 🙏
Thanks for watching; I'm really glad it helped you. Good luck in your DIY endeavors! :)
My Sharp microwave suddenly stopped, no inside light, no display, nothing. I expected the monitor fuse to be blown, checked OK. Tracing the lines coming into the unit, I found they were tied in with some of the microswitches. Two of the switches had reasonable closed resistance, a couple hundred miliohms, where one of them would fluctuate all over when depressed. I was surprised, the switch was not glued together, with some effort, it came apart. I found that the contact were slightly pitted. I was able to clean both up with a burnishing tool, put it back together, bingo, a more consistent resistance. I put the unit back together, really didn't expect it to work, bingo, it worked. The "microswitches" were exact clones of Honeywell Microswitches, but had different part numbers. I can see that these switches are a major weak point in the ovens, asides from the HV capacitor. I guess it is some planned obsolesces so you buy a new oven.
Ah, planned obsolescence. Hence our DIY Community! Plus, it's fun to fix things and get them working again (plus save some $$!). Thanks for watching and sharing!
Excellent Video, makes it look easy , but it’s not . Very nicely explained step by step
Thanks for watching! Hopefully it helped you with your own DIY repair!
at 3:15 you take TWO screws out BUT there is a 3rd screw hole in the upper part with NO screw in it, which I think was part of my problem - I loved SLAMMING that door shut with FORCE and what it caused was the upper switch to come loose and rock back and forth- I used superglue and a toothpick to wedge it into a secure position and when I put it back together I added that 3rd screw -it works great now and does not trip !!!
Interesting fix! Thanks for watching and sharing!
Thank you so much for this video. I was able to fix our microwave issue without the need of the appliance repair man. Probably saved 200 bucks. It wa a great ego boost as well.
Thanks for watching! Congrats on making the repair. It certainly is an ego boost to be able to fix something like this! Good luck with all your DIY repairs!
@@fixitwithcronk1074 I am having a new problem now. Hope you can help me. After closing the door and setting the time, the microwave wont start after i press the START button. I am hearing clicking noise coming from behind the controls panel and the countdown timer starts but the microwave does not start. I have to try at least 5 to 6 times for it to work. Not sure whats going on. I replaced all the 3 door switches. MODEL JVM3160RF5SS
Thanks this helped a lot!
Thanks for watching! Congratulations on making the repair. Good luck with all your DIY Repairs!
You put the wrong switch in that spot. You need the NC (Normally closed) switch there, you installed a NO (Normally open) switch in that position, which is dangerous. the two end switches are the NO (Normally open)
The two connection pins are farther apart on the NC (Normally closed) switch. The fact is I don't understand how your microwave is working with the wrong switch in that position. You really need to change that fast.
Thanks for watching! I replaced one-for-one with the same switches that came out, which is why it's working.
Thought I was the only one who noticed. The video shows him replacing a NC with an NO switch. 7:50 you can see both the NC in the left hand and the NO in the right (one installed). The pins are further apart on the left hand vs right hand, so it's pretty easy to see it the wrong switch.
FWIW the part number written on the side KW3AT-16 is written on both my NC and NO switches. Have to look further than the part number.
I was coming to say exactly that! You can see it's the song type of replacement switch (open vs closed) and when you put the wire back on, the EMPTY spot on the harness connected to the switch spade, not the spot with the white wire.
So I tried it with 3 NO switches and the microwave worked, but after your comment, I swapped the middle switch with a NC. But I don't understand why this is a safety issue. Could you please explain?
@@prestonwolfram The whole reason for the switches is to make sure that the microwave will not work with the door open. Microwaves are dangerous, and if the switches are not in the correct configuration, the microwave can still operate even with the door open. The switches are a safety requirement on all microwaves.
Edit:
I forgot to mention that I don't recall the exact sequence without looking it up. You could ask one of the other people here who also noticed the wrong switch was used; maybe they will know without looking it up.
Maybe, the microwave I had, a Hamilton Beach, model P90D23Al, was purposely made difficult to repair. The door switches were not as easily accessed as the GE. Even worse the connectors to the door switches were not nice plastic plugs that could be pulled off or pushed on to the switches. They were snapped-in and without some sort of special tool impossible to remove without damaging. When you buy a microwave or other such appliance, use the return period to examine the connectors inside and determine if they are hard to disconnect with the fingers or with a gentle tug from a pliers. If yes, quit there. Put the covers back on and take it back to the store!
Oh man! What a bummer. I'm sorry to hear this was your experience. Thanks for watching, though! I hope your next microwave is easier to repair!
I think your microwave was still ON when you shut the door before starting it.
It also appeared to be ON / RUNNING when it should have turned itself off.
I know, because I have the same problem. Mine runs with the door closed...... even without setting it to cook.
Hi! Thanks for the comment. Yes, I had to actually replace the board as it wasn't only the switch that was the problem. Check FixIt007 for that repair.
Did this switch fix after finding exactly the same middle switch gummed up. Bottom switch too was doubtful, so replaced it. Total cost $8 for two switches. 15 minutes of work. Great! btw I had the same 'temporary fix' with always hitting cancel button--trail and error learning, lol. I assume that is a quirk of the switch interlock?
Hi! Thanks for watching. Yup, those switches get gunked up. I did have some temporary success at first with using a contact spray cleaner, but ultimately had to replace the switches anyway. Good thing replacements are so cheap! Glad it worked for you too!
If I am replacing a normally closed switch, what happens if I use the a normally open one instead? Will that not work? Also for the people saying they cleaned their switch and it worked after, how do you go about cleaning it?
Hi thanks for looking. You should always replace a Normally Open (NO) switch with an identical NO switch, and a Normally Closed (NC) switch with an identical NC switch, since that is what matters to the circuitry of the unit. Sometimes the switches are gunked up with food grease, etc., and you can have some success with using a spray electrical contact cleaner (check your local home store) to spray it thoroughly, wipe it clean, and be sure you hear the "click" when you depress the switch. It's also a good idea to use a meter to test the switch continuity. Good luck!
Same damn microwave different skin, nice access once you figure it out.
THANKS
Thanks for watching! I hope it helped you!
I was able to check other top switches with multimeter on continuity, i noticed the bottom one is at faulty, but I can't remove it from the conectors! It is stuck in and I don't wanna break the plastic connector cover, any solutions how to remove that bottom connector from the swtich and replace without breaking that connector cover? Thanks
Hi! Thanks for watching. Those connectors are on there pretty tight, that's for sure. Sometimes cooking gunk gets up in there and seems to glue it together! One thing you might want to try is to take a small slotted (flat blade) screwdriver - after you're sure the unit is unplugged - and put just the tip of it between the wire connector and the switch, then pry it gently and see if it comes off. Good luck!
What is the order of the switches from top to bottom. I got mine out of order on removal (puppy) and I want to make sure I put them in correctly. The top one is my real concern as I can't seem to get an open or closed switch to plug in.
Hi, thanks for watching. I don't recall the sequence of "Normally Open/Normally Closed" from top to bottom, but one of the places I look for appliance parts and tips is appliancespartspros.com. There are others as well, but some diligent online searching should help you out. Good luck!
Thank you for the video. All 3 of my switches depress and click without issue, but i could not get the darn wires to disconnect from the switches. I tried both the upper and the middle. To explain my problem, my fuse blows if i open the door without pressing cancel. Never used to be a problem.
Hi - Thanks for watching the video. The only thing I can think of is that maybe the connectors that push onto the switch tabs might be gunked up, effectively "gluing" them to the tabs, or maybe that they need a small slotted screwdriver to pop them off. Good luck!
All three switches "click" when I test them. What else could cause the fuse to blow if we accidently open the door while the microwave is still running? Thanks!
Even though your switches "click", that's just a "quick and dirty" way to check the functionality of the switch. The best thing to do is to use a volt-ohmmeter to check the resistance. Put the two probes on the two tabs, set your ohmmeter to resistance (Ohms) and press the switch. If the reading changes when the switch clicks, the switch should be OK. When I say "changes", I mean if the switch is normally open (it'll read "1" on your ohmmeter), when it clicks it'll change to "0" (closed). If it's normally closed (it'll read "0" on the meter), when it clicks it'll change to "1" (open). There are some other resistors and components that could have gone bad but I don't look at those in this video. There are some other videos on those on TH-cam, but I don't have the links to share.
Those two door switches when ordered have the prongs on differently.
One goes on the top and the other goes on the bottom, since when you plug them in, the connection will be different if you place them in the wrong spot.
Yes! Absolutely. You will want to be sure to get exact replacement parts and that the NO (Normally Open) and NC (Normally Closed) switches are in the same places as the original. Thanks for watching!
Are the two black switches the same.? when you look at them closely the prong on each are located differently. Looks like the one you replaced was different than the one you took out, because of the prong location. Just need to know as I am too, amd trying to purchase the same one but cannot find the correct one. Just wondering if it does not matter if the black two switches are the same.????
I noticed that too. The one appeared to be "normally open" and the other "normally closed." It does not seem right.
Hi - Thanks for watching! These are great questions. When I pulled the switches, I looked very carefully on each switch for the specific numbers printed (or molded) on the switch itself, to be sure I ordered the right ones. You can test the new ones with your volt-ohmmeter set on resistance (ohms) and putting the probes across the pins when the button is depressed on the switch and when it's not. If your resistance reads zero when the button is depressed, it's normally open; if it reads zero when it's not depressed, it's normally closed. I don't recall now which ones were which, but I think there are two of one kind and one of the other in this unit. Good luck!
@@fixitwithcronk1074 Super helpful video, thank you! KW3AT-16 is printed on both switches but if you look @7:50 you can see what the initial question was referring to, the prong for the original switch is at the top (NC on the other side of the switch) & the prong on the replacement switch is in the middle (NO). According to Amazon one is open & one is closed. Shouldn't a closed switch stop the unit from working if the original switch was open? Very confusing.
EDIT: Replaced it with the same switch that you did & it works. The middle prong plugs in to nothing & the wire from the microwave that used to go to the top prong (now on the bottom since the switch is upside down) plugs in to nothing as well. I still don't get it.
For the long screwdriver do you need a Phillips Or flat screw driver??? And yes definitely magnetic
Hi, thanks for watching. I imagine you're talking about the screw that you have to get from the top right of the unit? You'll want a #2 Phillips with magnetic tip. Thanks for the question!
What was your symptoms? Mine works for a few days after replacing fuse and then blows. I just replaced 2nd fuse. I didnt have to do the push cancel before opening door. It worked as it should for a week and then fuse blows.
Thanks for watching. In our case (yours may not be the same), we found that pulling the door open while it's running would not only stop it from running, but also blow the fuse, which is why I investigated the door switches. You may have an intermittent problem with one or more of the door switches, which are all interlocked with the unit. Good luck!
That's the nice thing about TH-cam; how to do things on the cheap and visually.
Hi; thanks for watching. Saving money is one of the key drivers in this house! Good luck with all your DIY projects! Thanks for the comment.
Thank you. I saved $500 by switching to YT University 😂
Thanks for watching! I'm glad you have benefited! Good luck in your DIY endeavors! :)
I have a 5 year old GE microwave that won’t heat. It powers up, lights go on, turntable turns and clock counts down. The 3 door switches check out fine alone with the ceramic fuse. I also replaced the circuit board. I’d appreciate any ideas on what the problem might be. Thank you very much.
@@artriumph Thanks for watching. Hmmm... not sure about this one! Much as I hate to suggest it (as a DIY guy), you may need to decide whether it's more cost-effective to hire a repair specialist or get a new one. Good luck with your repairs!
Hello , thanks for your video. I have a Ewave Kot-170SW and sometimes when I close the door slowly blows the fuse . I took the door switches out like you showed us and one of the 4 of switches is not clicking. It seems to be a 0.3A 24v DC 27T105 5E4 I can not find it in amazon. Any idea?.
Hi, thanks for watching. Sorry for the late reply, but you might have some luck searching outside of Amazon or checking with a local appliance repair shop; sometimes they will sell the parts without the service. Good luck with your DIY Repairs!
I broke off the latching pin on the install. Is it safe to use super glue to fasten the new switch in place?
Oooh. That little latching pin is a challenge. I suppose you could use super glue, but it might not work too well especially if there is a layer of cooking oil/grease all over the inside surfaces, like I had in mine.
@@fixitwithcronk1074 Used super glue and it's held up so far; the only problem is you have to replace the whole bracket if a new switch is installed.
Great video Cronk! Thanks for posting. I'd like to get your thoughts on switch MODELS (KW3A vs KW3AT-16) and FUSES (Slow vs Fast blow). Pardon the long/detailed post. Hopefully details help someone else watching video/reading post....
MICROWAVE:
I'm working with a 2 yr old, over the range GE Profile (PVM2188...) microwave. Intermittently, Fuse blows when door is Opened and/or Closed. This is my SECOND time through this process, in the past 6mo. This time, I'm swapping out the Latch Board (per your recommendation), AND replacing switches (with SCORCHING on the connectors, just to be safe/pro-active) . The Main board replacement is reserved for THIRD try :D
SWITCH MODEL - Diff's/uses?
I noticed that the switches on my unit are KW3A and KW3AT-16, and vary in color (gray or black). All are TWO terminal. Is the difference between the models that they are 125 and 250 VAC, respectively? If so is there an easy way to tell which one is for which function (i.e. Door vs Monitor). And, I see that some online retailers sell 3 packs (typically 2 door, 1 monitor switch), but the SWITCH models can vary --- e.g. packs of: ALL ONE model (KW3A) or MIXED models (KW3A and KW3AT-16).
And PRICE varies per switch, from a few bucks to $20+ per switch. It appears that the Monitor switches are usually 4x the cost of door switches. Does price really matter, provided it's the correct switch TYPE (eg NO vs NC)?
FUSES - SLOW vs FAST Blow
Also... when fuse blew, I went to the local hardware store and picked up 20a Bussman "Microwave" fuses. I've since realized that they are FAST BLOW, and it appears that GE's OEM is SLOW BLOW. So, I'm going to order some Slow Blow fuses. Is it better to err on the side of caution (in lieu of getting correct specs), to go with slow blow fuses, for Microwaves?
Aside.... I've noticed that the light bulbs (under microwave, for lighting range surface) BLOW, leading up to the Fuse blowing. I'm guessing that they are collateral damage of the surge, which ultimately blow fuse? On my first time replacing switches, I replaced the sockets/bulbs, thinking there may be defects. But same sequence of events happened this time. (FYI I also replaced glass bulb with suitable LED, in case vibrations were affecting glass bulb filament, as noted online). Any thoughts/recommendations -- in case I'm not the only one with these issues? Might even be the topic of next video :D
Thanks again, for the videos, and responses.
PSA:
Always ***SAFELY*** DISCHARGE capacitor. Either unplug and leave for several days or week, or use PROPER tools for discharging. Do NOT use some tool from your toolbox, to short/discharge. You risk damaging capacitor, or worse, electricity arcing and sending potentially LETHAL 2100 volts through YOU!!
Hi Sean, thanks for watching! My apologies for the late response, and THANK YOU for the PSA! Yes, that's one thing you don't want: to electrocute yourself as you're trying to save money by DIY!
Wow - you ask some great questions. Pretty much all I did was remove switches and test them with a meter (and listen for the telltale "click" when depressing the button), and carefully record the exact number on the switch itself. I'm pretty sure that it doesn't matter about the 125/250 VAC designation on the switch - the switch will work with either voltage. I think I bought a 3-pack of switches on Amazon, and I only needed one (I think!) so I saved the others for potential future repairs. I think as long as you get the correct switches (i.e., Normally Open/NO or Normally Closed/NC) it shouldn't matter. If you buy the less costly ones then you don't feel so bad if they go bad on you later.
Really my first issue was the small cylindrical glass fuse. I noted it when I first opened it up after it failed the first time - the fuse had blown and the inside of the glass was all coated with metal. I bought a pack of those fuses online (a 5-pack, I believe), wound up using 2 (1 before I realized the door switches were bad and the 2nd after I replaced the switches) and keeping the rest for potential future repair.
For me, the frustrating part was after replacing switches and fuses, the unit was humming as though it was on low. The fix for that was the $200 board replacement, but WAY easier than ripping out the whole unit and whatever kitchen modification I would have had to do to put in a new one!
Again, thanks for watching, and thanks for the comments/questions!
Cheers,
Cronk
Sean, I forgot to answer your question about the surface lights. We, too, found the surface lights blew, but didn't take note if it was in advance of the fuse blowing. We also replaced them with LEDs, but they, too, were not as long-lived as we hoped.
Good luck!
Cronk
atleast on GE microwaves, you can often See the door monitor switch by looking in to the bottom hole that the doors hooks go in to when you open & close the door. its a good way to determine if that switch is the culprit
Great tip! Thanks for watching!
Huh, I was told that that copper coiled magnet holds enough electricity to stop your heart even when it's unplugged. You didn't seem too worried about that...
Hey, thanks for watching. That certainly is a concern, but the coil was only close to the fuse, and I stayed away from that when replacing the fuse itself. Thanks for the comment!
I shorted out my microwave by using a pliers to try to remove the stove top light bulb. Everything is out. Could the fuse exchange solve my problem or do I need a new microwave? I opened it up and took out the fuses and they are both bad.
Hi thanks for watching. It seems odd to me that the microwave would short out that way. However, I'd check to be sure your circuit breaker is off at the panel and try it with a new bulb and fuses first, turn on the breaker and see if the microwave is still out. Good luck!
better to refer to them as normally open or normally closed. If you order after-market parts they will probably be the same colors. You have to look at the tab position to see their normal n/o n/c settings
Thanks for watching. Good tip! Good luck with your DIY repairs.
could you provide a link to where you bought the parts
Hi, thanks for watching. I think I just looked up the switch model number in Amazon and obtained it there. Good luck!
would any of these door switches cause the microwave to throw a breaker ?
Thanks for watching! It's been a little while since I've done this repair, but now that you mention it, I think the microwave breaker did trip once or twice before I figured out the door switch issue. Of course, before doing any electrical work, you will want to be sure the microwave is unplugged and/or the circuit breaker is completely off. Be safe around electricity :)
My symptom is that when door is closed, push 30 seconds, won’t start unless I tap on the door handle. I am guessing the middle switch is gunked up.
Hi - thanks for watching. My guess is one of the switches is gunked up. You can remove it and clean it with contact cleaner spray (any home center will have this, probably in the electrical department), or just buy a few replacement switches and keep them on hand. Good luck!
looks like the switch you installed is different from the one you pulled.
My apologies if it appeared that way. The switch I replaced was the same switch. I think the "kit" I bought had three switches but I didn't need to replace all three. I saved the other two for potential future repair!
Why are my plugs connecting to the door switch impossible to remove?
Hmmm.... that's a good question. Perhaps they have grease (etc.) gunked up on them? Maybe try a small slotted screwdriver and gently pry them off? Good luck, and thanks for watching!
I have the same issue. The plugs in the video appear to be encased in a flexible plastic sheath. Mine are in a hard plastic casing and seem to be held in place somehow.
Same here. I'm afraid I'm going to break something trying so hard
What is the grey moduele on the bottom of the door switches for?
If I understand your question correctly, the gray module at the bottom is the bottom door switch. It could be any color, but typically they are either black or gray. Thanks for watching!
What I should've done was replace that one as well, since the assembly was already apart and you only have to dissamble it once.
Just saved me
Thanks for watching; I'm really glad it helped you. Good luck in your DIY endeavors! :)
The problem with mine was that the "ramp" the door locks ride up on were worn out enough to not compress the middle switch. This caused the fuse to blow when the unit was turned on. A new Latch Board [WB06X10610] fixed it.
Sounds like a great fix! I was worried this might be the case too; once I replaced the switches, it turned out I had to replace the main board altogether (see FixIt007 for details on that one!) Thanks for watching!
Most likely not the switches, the plastic holder of said switches gets worn-out, $55 or so part, what I did if switches are still good, they are loose int the plastic part, I used small zip ties and secured them tightly, now no Problems.
Yes! It's very important that all the little clips and nubs that hold the switches to the plastic holder, PLUS that mount the holder to the frame don't get broken! Good luck with your DIY repairs!
It will work temporarily, you should replace door hook
Hi; thanks for watching. We are keeping track of the wear items and will definitely be watching the door hook as well. Thanks for the comment!
Be honest, you installed a wrong switch at first? The switch you replaced the old one with has different pin location lol
Hmmm... I don't recall replacing it with an incorrect switch. I matched up the numbers on the switch exactly when I ordered the replacement. It's amazing how gunked up they get, though! Thanks for watching!
Oks
Thanks for watching!
Removed all 3 and they were all black.
Thanks for watching! You mean the switches were black from being burned out, or the plastic was black? The switch body could be any color plastic depending on the manufacturer. Good luck with your DIY repairs!
Zzzzzzzzz!
Thanks for watching! Nope, didn't zap myself! Good luck in your DIY endeavors!