1996 - 2000 Toyota Rav4 DIY Oil Change and Oil Filter Change for Beginners
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 7 ก.พ. 2025
- This video shows all the steps to change the oil in your '96 - '00 Rav4. Changing your own oil is a great way to start working on your car and a great way to save money. Check out this channel for other Rav4 videos.
Thanks for watching, and I hope this helps. Good luck with your repair!
Timestamps and info:
00:32 Parts, supplies, and tools
01:41 Example oil filter brand and model # (Purolator PL14476)
02:01 Oil drain plug gasket, Toyota part #90430-12031 or Dorman 095-156
03:00 Drain oil
04:43 Drain plug gasket
06:15 Install drain plug (27 ft-lbs)
06:55 Remove oil filter
09:22 Prepare new oil filter
10:10 Install oil filter
12:44 Refill with oil
15:17 Check oil light
There are many brands of oil to chose from. I use Pennzoil Ultra Platinum synthetic oil and a long-life filter in one of our Rav4's to extend the oil change interval (that Rav4 has almost 210K miles), but then I use conventional in another Rav4 which has its oil changed more frequently (that Rav has about 190K miles). Which ever brand you pick, use 5W-30.
There are also many filters to choose from. Toyota filters are very good, but are usually a little more expensive. I like Purolator and NAPA Gold filters.
Thanks for watching, and good luck with your repair!
If you put these timestamps and chapter titles in the description it will actually mark the chapters on the video
Ok, I do not give compliments as often as I should so this is rare day. I have watched several of your videos over the last two years or so. I'm going to confess that I have done hundreds of oil changes over the years on many different vehicles, cars, trucks and tractors and in my experienced (oil change) opinion this was the best tutorial on an oil change that I have seen to date! Just when I think you should include something, you bring it up and do it for us on camera so there is no guessing what you meant, just there it is in perfect detail! You are really blowing me away with your instructional process and all the little stills and helpful arrows! I enthusiastically subscribed two years ago when I saw your video on the 1st gen Rav4 timing belt water pump service, nobody does these better on TH-cam and there are alot of people trying. If you knew me, you would know how uncharacteristic it is for me to gush all over someone's work. OK, now I'm going to come 100% clean as say that today I watched the oil change video not because I needed to learn how to change oil but because I like hearing your soothing voice, mannerisms and even cool shirt but mostly you! No worries, it's just a tiny crush :) Please keep up the great work!
Thank you so much I’m actually going to try to change my oil for the first time in my life and I’m 60 years old. Thank you very much I am doing exactly as you do in buying the tools for my 2000 RAV4.😊
Wow, that's great! You can do it - just take your time: the Rav4 is a great vehicle to learn repairs on. Thanks for watching, and good luck! : )
Thank you for teaching me, No one really mentions to replace the gasket on the oil pan. I will remember this video til my end of days
Thank you so so much! I am changing the oil in my car for the first time and this was exceptionally helpful and easy to understand. I love the crickets in the background, it adds this mood of working in the shop late at night
Haha! I couldn't catch that cricket - he was too quick! : ) I'm glad the video helped, and thanks for watching!
I fell asleep!
Very clear, thorough and informative. Thanks for this video! I subscribed.
This was a great video, every detail explained! Thanks for the time you spent on this!!
Thank you - thanks for watching! : )
You have the best videos! Thanks so much for doing them!!
Thanks, and thanks for watching! : )
Nice. 100% clear and professional.
just bought a 97 off my friend for $300, going to do this first thing...thanks for the informative video :) subscribed
Wow, that's great -- you got a DEAL! You'll love your Rav4 : ) Check out this channel for some other Rav4 videos, and I am always adding new Rav4 videos. Good luck and have fun!
@@L35inColorado Thank you, I'll be looking forward to more Rav4 stuff :)
300 was a steal
You just saved my sanity. I had no idea how to get that oil filter off, tried everything I knew of. Can always learn more!
I'm so glad it helped! Well done figuring it out, and completing the job -- thanks for your comment!
@@L35inColorado Your videos are going to be of great help to me as I am in the process of pulling out the cylinder head, sending it off for machining and reinstalling it. I'm 65 and don't have anyone to help me and so far your videos (and an oil penetratingly spray)have been a Godsend. 1000 Thank you.
@@benedictaradic2194 Right on! What a great project -- best of luck and I'm so glad the videos are helpful! : )
You just earned a new subscriber. Thanks a bunch for this..now I am more confident to do my own oil change.. 🙏
I'm so glad the video helps -- you can do it! Thank you for your comment, and thanks for subscribing!
Nice tip with writing the mileage and date on the new filter - thanks!
Thanks for watching!
I heard using regular oil is better then synthetic oil for these older cars ? I know they do tend to leaks and that regular oil is thicker so it will not leak as much
If just depends - if you've been using synthetic for a long time, there's likely no reason to switch, but yes, it is possible that if you switch from regular to synthetic on a very high mileage engine, you might experience higher oil consumption, or even some leaks at certain seals. You can also use a synthetic blend, or a "mile-mileage" blend. If you've been using synthetic for long time and are noticing increased oil consumption, you can switch to regular or a syn-blend and see if the different oil type reduces oil consumption.
These engines aren't too picky, but they do seem to prefer 5W-30, as recommended by Toyota. I hope that helps - thanks for watching! : )
I put Castrol high mileage synthetic blend in my 1997 Toyota RAV4 4x4 😎
Great video! Super informative. You mention everything necessary and more. THANK YOU!!!
I'm so glad the video helps -- thanks for your comment and good luck!
got a 98 with 187k just replaced the battery and alternator, doing oil next just because it was still clean when i bought it, thank you
Nice! You'll love your '98, congrats! : )
@@L35inColorado Thank you! I have a 2014 FJ that Im trying to keep the miles down, so the Ravy will come in handy!
@@jeusebio2413 Oh very cool -- yeah, hold on to that FJ forever! : )
Great job explaining everything!
Thanks a lot, very good video for first time owners like myself.
Perfectly clear! thank you very much
You're welcome, I'm glad it helped! Good luck : )
Thank you again, enjoy watching your videos. Can you please tell where to purchase OEM parts, oil, coolant etc. from?
I'm very sorry that for some reason I didn't see your comment in my feed until today, even though it says that you left your comment 10 months ago! To answer your question, you can get OEM parts from your local Toyota dealer, but you want to first check the prices at parts.toyota.com; on that site, you can search for the correct part and get what is typically the "maximum" price. You can then google that part number and you'll get results from various Toyota dealers, and their prices will typically be less - usually about 20% less than what is shown in the parts.toyota.com site, even though they are legit Toyota dealers.
I have found the best prices, overall, from these dealers - but there are others with competitive prices, and it depends on the part and shipping cost:
- Lewis Toyota (parts.lewistoyota.com)
- McGeorge Toyota (parts.mcgeorgetoyota.com)
- Stevinson Toyota West (parts.stevinsontoyotawest.com)
My orders are almost always over $75, and the Toyota code FREESHIP usually works to get free shipping on non-freight orders over $75.
If you have a local dealer and they have a parts.toyota site, it is almost always cheaper to order online and select "pick up in store." For whatever reason, they have two prices: one price is much higher and is the price you'd pay if you don't order online, and the other is lower and is the price you pay if you do order online.
Other than via the dealers sites, www.toyotapartsdeal.com also has reasonable prices.
If you buy parts on Amazon or Ebay, there is a high risk they are counterfeit, unfortunately - especially if the price is "too good to be true". Especially on Amazon - Amazon doesn't seem to even do much to prevent it.
There are legit OEM parts sellers on Ebay, and they are usually Toyota dealers. For example, Manhattan Beach Toyota is a legit Toyota dealer who also sells parts on Ebay via a store.
Beyond OEM parts from the dealer, you can also buy OEM aftermarket parts: for example, Aisin and Denso are two Japanese companies that make many, many OEM parts for Toyota (and other manufactures), from water pumps to sensors and injectors, seals, etc. You can often cross-reference the Toyota part number to find the exact part by the OE maker, and it will typically be 25% cheaper. If just takes a little research....well, sometimes it takes a lot of research!
In my videos, I always try to state both the Toyota part numbers and the OEM aftermarket part numbers for any parts I can; and if I can recommend even a non-OEM part, I'll do that. But I do try to stick with either OEM Toyota or OEM (ie, Denso/Nippon Denso, Aisin, NOK, NSK, Diamond Electric, etc).
I hope that helps : ) And I'm sorry I didn't see your comment when you first posted it! Thanks for watching : )
Nice, very helpful!!
Thank you!!
Thanks for watching! : )
Love it. Thank you so much.
Truly love your videos. You are an awesome teacher. Is it OK to use thicker oil 15W-40 for the higher mileage (280K+ 1998 first generation RAV4)? Teaching daughter in college how to change her oil. Had her watch your video....WOMEN POWER!
Wow, 280K+, that is great! To answer your question: for these engines, I stick with 5W-30. If you're experiencing some oil consumption and wish to try a high-mileage conventional/syn oil blend, then that is fine (Valvoline High Mileage 5w-30 is very popular on the Toyota forums). But I'd stick with 5W-30, and not a heavier oil.
I've used conventional, full synthetic, synthetic blend, and high mileage synthetic blends on different Rav4s: there really isn't much of a difference unless you have leaky valve stem seals (which is usually detected by a little puff of blue smoke upon start up if the Rav has been sitting for a while).
If you have leaky valve stem seals (which is common for these engines as they get older and higher mileage), then a high-mileage blend *might* help reduce that little blue puff, depending on how leaky the seals are.
The most important thing is to change the oil and filter on time, and check the oil level periodically! Do that, and these little engines seem to run forever : )
Thanks for watching, and thanks for teaching your daughter!
@@L35inColorado Thanks. 1. Any chance of posting videos for transfer case & rear differential oil changes for the first generation(1998) automatic all time 4WD?
Also is the front differential part of the "transaxle"(automatic transmission) in same vehicle?
@@PuddleJumper-b4z Yes, the next time I do those jobs on my Rav4 (different than the one in the video), I will record it. I'll have to check my records to see when I did it last, but it probably needs doing this year. They are straight-forward jobs - just always remember to open the fill plug before opening the drain plug on a diff job, just in case the fill plug won't open and you end up draining it without having a way to re-fill it, which is not fun!
And yes - the front diff is integrated into the automatic transmission, and Toyota calls it a "transaxle". The setup for the first gen Rav4 AWD auto transaxle (A540H) fully integrates the transfer case, too. The transfer case is a gear-drive setup (not chain), and the transaxle is designed such that the right-side axle assembly goes "through" the transfer case. You can see what I mean here, if you're interested:
th-cam.com/video/7OkJwebxdz8/w-d-xo.html
The transfer cases and diffs on these gen-1 Rav4 last a long, long time, I think just because the car is so lightweight and doesn't have much horsepower! It is rare for the transfer case to need replacement, even as a lot of people are negligent in changing the gear oil because they don't even know it's there. The transfer case dipstick is behind the front right wheel.
There are two types of rear diffs on the gen-1's: a regular and a Torsen limited slip diff. You can run your VIN on the Toyota site to see which one you have; the Torsen LSD's are much less common and were an expensive upgrade. The Torsen LSD's require an friction modifier additive when you change the rear diff oil (ie, Motorcraft XL-3 Friction Modifier).
I hope that helps : )
@@L35inColorado I have struggled to find any of this calling dealers. You have just clarified all for me.
1. Transfer case has a small dipstick that's difficult to access. Appears one also adds gear oil via that dipstick since only has drain plug. Takes 0.7L of 75W-90?
2. A540H was another answer I was looking to find. My understanding is a "drain & fill for transmission" (not removing pan but only drainplug) required 3-4 quarts ATF & for this vehicle, recommended to use => Toyota T-IV ATF. Since front differential is part of (embedded) within "transaxle" or automatic transmission, it's also lubricated by same ATF? Not separate drain/fill plugs?
@@PuddleJumper-b4z 1.) Yes, you drain the transfer case via the drain plug, and refill via the dipstick. But you can also leave the drain plug in place and suck the fluid out through the dipstick (ie, if you have a Mityvac or suction gun), which sometimes people must do because the drain plug can get too rusty and the Allen hex rounds out; it is a 10mm hex, but if it's rusty, you typically must soak it in PB Blaster, and sometimes even have to use a T-55 Torx to remove it, and the replace the plug, 90341-18021 and gasket 90430-A0003.
For the transfer case, I use Mobil 1 Synthetic 75W-90 gear oil, and yes, it doesn't take much! I check the level beforehand, and if the level is good, then I replace with the same amount removed, as measured when the fluids are the same temperature.
If the level is not good, then repair the source of the leak first, because the transfer case fluid is in a closed system and will be within the appropriate range on the dipstick unless there is a leak. If you remove the drain plug, replace the gasket (90430-A0003), and torque to 27 ft-lbs.
2.) Yes, the front diff is lubricated with ATF: the path for the bearings is connected to the paths for the transmission components (there are check balls, etc, to control flow, but it's all the same fluid) so completing a drain-and-refill at the transmission drain plug (located on the ATF pan, driver's side of engine bay, 10mm Allen key plug), is how you likewise "service" the front diff.
The torque converter holds several quarts, so when you do a drain-and-refill, you only remove maybe half the volume of the system. But that's not a bad way to do it, and it is the way I prefer: what some people do is just complete a drain-and-fill at about half the ATF change interval, so the ATF is getting "refreshed". Personally, I don't think flushes are necessary.
The other option is to remove the ATF pan: there's 17 or 18 little 10mm bolts if I remember correctly, and you have to replace the gasket (the OE gasket is a cork-rubber composite that's not easy to re-use). With the pan removed, you can drain perhaps another half or 3/4 quart, but usually the reason people drop the pan is to clean or replace the filter and clean the magnets. The OE filter is a metallic screen style that can be cleaned, but often people just replace it. Some of the aftermarket replacements are a non-metallic, non-cleanable material.
For regular maintenance on a Rav4 that's not experiencing any transmission issues, a drain-and-refill is just fine in my opinion. And yes, you can just refill the ATF through the ATF dipstick in the engine bay.
I recommend to use the OE fluid, which yes is Toyota T-IV ATF. It is an excellent ATF made by Mobil. If you do you a drain-and-refill, remember that ATF expands when hot. So, when you drain it, let it cool to the same temp (garage room temp) as your refill bottles. Then just add back whatever you removed and check the level to be sure.
I hope that helps!
I hated when the oil dripped out of mine. Also I put the black Bosch Premium 3311 I believe as the filter for mine. & I have the blue purolators as backup.
this is awesome! so helpful! thank you!
Am I better off using conventional oil on my 97 Rav since I believe oil changes are every 3000 miles?
Yes, if you're changing your oil every 3000 miles, then I'd go with conventional. Thanks for watching : )
@@L35inColorado Thanking you do much. You’re a great mechanic. I noticed you haven’t uploaded in a while. I’m sure life gets in the way and you’re probably busy with your family but do you plan on doing more auto maintenance/repairs videos in the future?
@@L35inColorado Thanking you do much. You’re a great mechanic. I noticed you haven’t uploaded in a while. I’m sure life gets in the way and you’re probably busy with your family but do you plan on doing more auto maintenance/repairs videos in the future?
@@StrongerThanBigfoot Yes, my family life got a little more complicated over the last year, so I haven't been able to make many videos. But I am currently finishing up a water pump video for the W163, and soon an oil cooler video as well. I hope to have some more Rav4 videos up before the end of the year, and also have a Matrix starter replacement video in editing.
Thanks for watching : ) Stay tuned - but it might be a few weeks, haha : )
Can you recommend any drain plug with magnetic feature? Would be nice peace of mind having that fail safe to see if any shavings are in the oil
THANK YOU!
You're welcome! Good luck, and thanks for watching! : )
If I’ve never owned tools before, what brand or style wrenches and such should I get to do this type of maintenance on my car - besides the specific sized gaskets and such that you so clearly name? I need a first time tool set. And socket wrenches o guess. Thank you
If you're in the USA, just head to a Harbor Freight store! You can get a good socket set and wrench kit for under $20 or so, or you can make your own set from the various sets they have there. For example, this one is an incredible value at just $15:
www.harborfreight.com/sae-metric-socket-set-51-pc-63013.html
Take your phone and pull up this page, and you can get 20% off that set (just show the cashier your phone and they'll scan it):
go.harborfreight.com/coupons/2019/08/20-off-any-single-item-at-harbor-freight/
That kit includes metric and SAE sizes sockets, and two ratchets. It has two ratchets because there are different drive sizes for ratchets: the drive is the part on the head of the ratchet that connects to the socket. For most jobs, you'll use the 3/8" drive. For bigger or tighter fasteners (such as lug nuts), you'll use a 1/2" drive. For the smaller fasteners (such as 10mm and smaller), you'll use a 1/4" drive.
You can use the different sockets on different drivers by using an adapter. That kit includes one adapter that allows you to use 1/4" drive sockets on the 3/8" drive ratchet. It also includes a straight handle that is 1/4" drive, and also has extension bars. It also includes a 5/8" spark plug socket (that's the size for the Rav4), which by itself usually cost about $5, so that kit is a great value.
For working on any foreign car, like Toyotas, and most newer American cars, you'll need only metric sized sockets, and that kit includes a good range of metric and SAE. The ratchets included in that set are adequate, but admittedly they are low-end -- but they will get the job done.
If you can spend a little more, I would get this ratchet:
www.harborfreight.com/38-in-drive-professional-flex-head-ratchet-62321.html
That's one of my favorite wrenches from HF, and I use it a lot. The flex/pivot head means that you can get it into tighter spaces as you gain confidence working on vehicles and other projects!
Lastly, it is a very good idea to have a torque wrench. The reason is because you don't want to OVER or UNDER tighten fasteners (nuts and bolts) on vehicles; a torque wrench will prevent that from happening because you can look up the torque value for the fastener, then set the torque wrench to click when you reach that specified tightness.
I used HF's torque wrenches for many years before I could spend more money on higher-end torque wrenches, and HF's torque wrenches always served me well and they are, by far, the cheapest you can find. Like all Pittsburgh hand tools, they have a lifetime warranty, so if you have any problems, you just take it back and they give you another one.
If you scroll down on this link, there's a coupon for any sized torque wrench for just $10, which is an amazing value:
www.harborfreight.com/savings_coupons.html
You can click on that coupon and see the item page -- if you can only get one, I would get the 3/8" drive size because it covers the most common range of torque values for vehicle repair. If you can get all three, then that's great, because you'll be set for almost any repair on the Rav4.
Here is Chris Fix talking about tools and torque wrenches -- he is an excellent place to look for info! Three of the torque wrenches in his video are HF's Pittsburgh wrenches:
th-cam.com/video/3v3hLvuO_KU/w-d-xo.html
Here's his video on tools:
th-cam.com/video/rCOgrIPFxIY/w-d-xo.html
Good luck and have fun!
Do you still recommend Pennzoil platinum oil? Or do you like any other brands more now?
I like Pennzoil and Mobil synthetics, and have been using them for years on lots of different engines: I still use Pennzoil Ultra in my '00 Rav4, which has been running synthetic for over 10 years (since about 100K miles). And as shown in the video, I also use the Walmart 5W-30 and Castrol conventional oils, too: on a high mileage Rav4 that has always run conventional oil, I would probably stick with conventional oil. There are many good brands, as modern oils are the best they have ever been and continue to improve. I hope that helps!
I would recommend you don't change the oil until the car sits for awhile and cools. The oil all around the inside of the engine will settle when you let it sit for awhile.
You certainly can do that. However, the advantage with draining the oil when warm is that the warmer oil has a lower viscosity so it flows better. Engine oil returns to the pan by gravity pretty quickly after stopping the engine (within a few minutes), especially on this little engine with the single head.
But, if you want to combine both methods, then just drain the oil when it's warm and flowing well, and then leave it open (drain plug out), and let it drain.
If you really want/need to get as much oil out as possible (for example, you're removing the oil pan and don't want to spill any when you dislodge it), then you can do the job on ramps in such a way that the angled oil pan is pointed downward, and you'll get a little more oil out that way.
Thanks for your comment, and good luck!
My oil filter says 3/4 -1 does that mean I turn to 9 then to 8?
3/4 turn will be fine for the Rav4. Just make a mark once your feel the gasket touch, then turn it about 3/4 of a turn, or to about 9 o'clock from your mark. Good luck!
3/4-1 means 3/4-4/4 as in a full revolution.
What about 1995
The '95 is the same: I didn't mention it because here in the USA, the Rav4 wasn't offered until '96, so we don't have '94's and '95's.
But yes, those earliest model do have the same 3SFE engine (as shown in the video). I hope that helps - thanks for watching : )