Timestamps are below, but first -- Important: I forgot to mention it 01:33:19, but REMEMBER TO RE-INSTALL the BELT GUIDE WASHER. You'll see the belt guide in place at 01:33:19, but I forgot to give verbal instructions to install it. It just slides on, same as how you removed it. Install the guide washer AFTER installing the belt, with the washer's cupped side facing OUT (guide washer is shown and explained at 46:40). Use these Timestamps to quickly find what you are looking for: 03:00 Work Begins 03:30 Remove battery & tray 04:10 Remove Spark Plugs Wires and Spark Plugs 06:01 Remove Power Steering Reservoir 06:16 Remove Alternator 09:18 Remove Alternator Bracket 09:59 Drain Coolant 10:58 Remove Front Tire 11:12 Lift Points 12:53 Remove Power Steering Belt 14:18 Remove Harmonic Balancer Bolt 20:20 Remove Harmonic Balancer 23:35 Location of Crankshaft Position Sensor 23:45 Remove Engine Insulator and Engine Mount Bracket 35:47 Remove Top Timing Cover 37:25 Alignment of Timing Marks before Removal of Lower Timing Cover 42:27 Remove Lower Timing Cover 43:46 Remove Old Timing Belt 45:05 Remove Tensioner Pulley 46:01 Remove Idler Pulley 46:40 Explaining the Belt Guide Washer -- this washer goes OVER the belt (there is no belt in place when I explain the washer) 47:00 Remove Crankshaft Sprocket 47:39 Crankshaft Position Sensor 48:01 Remove Oil Pump Drive Housing 49:07 Remove Oil Pump Sprocket 49:38 Remove and Replace Oil Pump Seal & Gasket 53:23 Install Oil Pump Drive Housing 55:58 Remove Camshaft Sprocket 58:14 Remove Camshaft Seal 1:01:33 Install Camshaft Seal 1:05:21 Install Camshaft Sprocket 1:06:34 Remove Crankshaft Seal 1:08:31 Install Crankshaft Seal 1:10:30 Remove Water Pump (begins) 1:11:42 Remove Thermostat 1:16:17 Install Water Pump 1:21:14 Install Thermostat 1:21:53 Install Tensioner Pulley 1:23:42 Install Idler Pulley 1:24:05 Replace Timing Cover Gasket 1:24:40 Install New Timing Belt ***Important: I forgot to mention it, but you’ll see the guide washer installed at **1:33:19**. Make sure you install the guide washer AFTER installing the belt, but BEFORE installing the Lower Timing Cover *** 1:33:19 Install Lower Timing Cover - Remember to install Guide Washer first 1:33:42 Install Harmonic Balancer 1:33:50 Belt Tensioning Procedure (1 and 7/8 Turn Method) 1:34:35 Torque down Tensioner Pulley Bolt (at 45 BTDC) 1:34:54 Install Top Timing Cover and Engine Mount Bracket 1:37:58 Install Engine Insulator (Mount) 1:44:28 Install Harmonic Balancer Bolt 1:46:01 ABS Bracket Install 1:46:50 Reposition Power Steering Reservoir 1:46:57 Install Alternator Bracket 1:47:53 Install Alternator 1:49:24 Install Power Steering Belt 1:51:58 Install Alternator Belt 1:55:09 Install Fender Liner & Wheel 1:55:22 Install Spark Plugs and Wires 1:57:29 Install Battery Tray and Battery 1:58:25 Refill Coolant 2:01:14 Bleed Coolant I hope this video was helpful for you. Thank you for watching, and good luck with your repair! Please post any tips or questions.
@@darrenthielker3546 Thank you -- the OBD reader I'm using here is this one, BAFX Products BAFX3127 for Bluetooth Diagnostic OBDII Reader/Scanner for Android Devices: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005NLQAHS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 And the app is "Torque Pro" from the Google Play Store. There is a free version of Torque App (which is very good also), and there's the "Pro" (which is only $5). I like the Pro version because it has a few more features, but the free version is great, too. How it works this this: you turn the key to the on position (or run the engine), plug in the OBD2 device, and then open the app on your phone, and it will connect to the OBD2 via Bluetooth. You then can monitor many sensors (varies by car), and reset CEL's. It doesn't work for SRS or ABS codes, but for powertrain codes, it is great.
L35 in Colorado My timing belt was JUST REPLACED 5,000 miles ago. But the goof that did it did not replace water pump gaskets. Is it possible to remove only the upper timing cover and then loosen tensioner pulley and remove water pump as long as timing belt remains in place?
Are you open to questions? I'm wondering if needing a timing belt would cause my engine to not turn over. I had a new battery put into my car 3 days ago. I drove 3 miles to get home and my car just stopped a block from my destination. Someone told me it was probably the relay starter fuse, so I replaced that and my car still just sounds flooded when I try to start it.
@@sonyaethaniel I'm sorry that I missed this comment -- yes, it is possible that your timing belt broke, which would prevent it from starting, but since the problem occurred so soon after the battery was changed, I would consider looking at the battery terminals, and making sure that the terminals are snug and well-connected. If the battery installer forget to re-install the metal strap that holds the battery in place, it is possible that the battery shifted while driving and loosened the battery connections (I've seen this before). Again, I'm sorry that I missed this comment and am a month late!
This is by far the best repair video that I have come across on TH-cam she is very thorough and takes her time to explain every step, tool and hardware needed along with prices and where she purchase them. great job dear! definitely my go-to when needing directions on how to repair my Rav4
One of the best repair videos ever. What a great gal. She tried her very best to show everything she could and did. What a great job! spent all 2 hrs on this.
Did you especially like the part where she couldn’t see the 2 nuts on the flange at the back of the water pump so was having to see through the camera? Incredible!
Just finished a belt replacement only on my '00 rav4 awd. On a very tight budget and extremely tight time table. My belt was stripped of teeth in a spot 8" long so I had to find the marks on the crank and cam gears. I'm not uncertain without your video and step by step instructions I'd have come unswivled and worked on it with the largest hammer within reach or probably paid $700 to the local mechanic. It took me 5 hours and $33. Planning to go through it again in a couple of weeks and replace the seals, idler & tensioner and water pump. 200K miles and doubt anything else has been done. Thanks for your help and putting together the easiest how to video, ever! And to the 50 assclowns with thumbs down, smh, y'all really need to come out of the basement a little more often.
Wow, that's outstanding -- well done! Great job DIY!! And that is remarkable that your old belt failed that way -- did you happen to see any marks on the old belt that would indicate the manufacturer? Did the new belt seem to be of noticeable better quality? I'm so glad the video helped, and again, great job! Please post back with any tips when you're back in there later. Thanks for watching : )
Great job! I did this job on my old RAV4 ten years ago, but only drove it 1500 miles, so it sits a lot. I started it the other day and it died 5 seconds later. Cranked it and it sounded like there was no comp, then it had comp and fired, then went right back to no comp. What the heck? I pulled the top timing cover and there was red dirt packed in the timing gears. MUD DOBBER NEST! The mud packed in the gears was continually changing the cam timing. Thank the car gods it is a non inteference engine! The only thing I did different when I installed all of the parts was I put the crank pulley on without the covers and ran and leak checked it briefly. Lots of seals changed and the water pump. Plus, I wanted to make sure there wasn't any other weirdness from the dirt. All went great! Thanks for the great video!
I just want to say this is the most amazing walk through I have seen on TH-cam. I have been referencing it so much, thank you very very much for taking the time to add this, it is brilliant!!
Thanks L35. You have the best car repair instruction videos ever. I've got this job coming up on my 1997 Rav4 and this will be a big help. (I replaced the clutch about a decade ago - took a lot of time and beer). Don't forget these videos will be a goto for years to come. The Rav4 model this vintage defies the passage of time.
@@L35inColorado It's a 2WD. I wouldn't have attempted the clutch job if it was 4WD. I made a DIY tranny jack out of wood and a standard floor jack. Once the transaxle was out I was surprised that it really isn't too heavy. I used my knees and arms to lift it into place to bolt it back on to the engine. Bought the Rav for $2K. It did need work, but money well spent. Thanks again.
THE ULTIMATE TIMING BELT REPLACEMENT VIDEO!! You are a champ. Just did both timing belts on my rav and it SUCKED. Learned a lot from this video. Had no idea that the crank gear had timing marks on it. Wasted so much checking, putting the cover off, belt on, cover off lol.
Thank you for the kind comment -- I'm glad you found the video useful! Those timing marks on the crank gear are so tiny that they are very easy to miss, lol
As a heavy duty mechanic for highway rigs and large diesel engines you have produced a great video that rivals the manufacturers. Good job. Very well explained. Keep up the good work
I have been watching youtube repair videos for years. This is by far the BEST, MOST DETAILED instructional I have seen. Very nice, thank you. I am now confident with these instructions I can do the job.
The production value is exceptional on your videos. Terrific focusing, lighting, and very clear narrative. You make the most efficient videos of this kind that exist on TH-cam. Thank you for your time and effort in making these.
I watched this video probably 15x while doing my first ever timing belt job (1989 camry, same engine). It took me nearly 2mos thanks to bad weather, a full time job, stuck bolts, and everything made of plastic breaking on me... but I fired it up for the first time and it was (and still is) good. pretty sweet for a first time novice amateur mechanic. Thank you very much for doing this.
CONGRATULATIONS!! That is outstanding! Well done -- great job sticking through all the surprises, and great job getting your Camry up & running! Thanks for watching and for sharing your story! : )
Finally, my 2000 Rav4 timming belt has been replaced. And it runs like new now. This is the best reality repair video on youtbe. Once again, Thank you so much.
Going to do this on my Rav pretty soon. Having to put oil in about every 250 miles because of that oil pump seal, so I’m going to go ahead and do all of this. I am confident I can do this because of your video. You’ve probably saved people hundreds of thousands of dollars in repairs. Thankful my Rav doesn’t have ABS for this repair so maybe it’ll be a bit easier! Please keep making gen1 rav4 videos!
Yeah, wow, that's a pretty good leak! When you get in there, you'll probably find that the seal is like uncooked spaghetti -- they dry out and break, and that's when the leak gets pretty bad, like you're seeing. I hope the video helps you with your repair! Be sure to read the Pinned Comment and the other comments for some extra notes and tips that others have added. Good luck!
Finally I figured out how to leave you a comment! Yeah! I am not computer literate. Thank you so much for your great video! I was given (yeah!) a 2000 Toyota Rav 4. It is close to needing a timing belt. It is so nice to know it is not an interference engine but I like to avoid getting stuck on the road. I live in the country and the next major city is an hour freeway drive away. Your video, as a woman also, is detailed enough I think I can change it. Years ago I changed the timing gear on my 1979 Chevy Malibu but those cars are so easy. No sensors, lots of room to work, totally different experience. That was a timing chain and the silicon end of the gear teeth they put on to make it quieter when it ran sheared off the gear and my belt came off. That wasn't an interference motor either. I can't thank you enough! This car is 6 years younger than the car I have been driving and it is still not totally computer controlled so I think I can work on it. That is because you do such a good job on your video explaining why things are done a certain way. I really like that about your video. I also want to do it right and your video shows how to do it right without getting too carried away. I like all the bolt call outs and the torque specs you give. I don't even have an owner's manual for this car. I just got the keys, nothing in the glove box so I really appreciate all the pictures and manual repair shots you give. Also, the tool call outs are great too. I love having something that will help me do something without brute force. I had to ask my husband to break the bolts loose when I did my brakes and he just hates (like anyone tremendously busy would) being interrupted since he has a full-time job plus a small hobby farm to fill up his time. I can't thank you enough for doing that wonderful video and making my life much easier. I like doing my own work but I'm no mechanic. I love your hand made tools too! I have plenty of PVC pipe around here. Thanks for putting more details up about things missed in the video also. That, I think that is First Class, being able to even add on little things after the video was posted. I really appreciate your thoroughness. I hope your 1996 Toyota Rav 4 is doing great but if you need to make more fixes on it, I'll be happy to view them for my 2000 Rav 4!
Thank you for the kind comments! I'm glad you find the video helpful, and that's very cool that you were given a '00, because these cars are really great cars. They aren't too difficult to work on, either. And yes, luckily for us women, most of the bolts for this job do not require a huge amount of strength: we might even have an advantage because we typically have smaller hands, and small hands for this job is a big advantage (since there is not much room). The one exception for brute strength might be the crankshaft bolt: as shown in the video, the crankshaft bolt on this particular '98 was a BEAR to remove, but usually they aren't that bad on these engines. Hopefully yours will be easier to remove, but if not, just get a torch and an impact (as described in the video). Good luck with your repair, and I hope you enjoy your new-to-you '00!
@@L35inColorado Hi, Thanks for replying to my comment. Yes, I agree that the crankshaft bolt is probably my biggest challenge. I have a little propane torch that I use to fix our plumbing so I hope that is good enough. At least there is nothing flammable near the crankcase bolt. I used it once to try and remove a break hose but it didn't work because I knew how much brake fluid expands with temperature and I was afraid to blow the line up. Plus I didn't want my brake line upstream to break. The connection was right at the wheel well where they always rust and I needed a new break hose because it was leaking. Took it to a real mechanic for that one. Sorry about getting your Rav 4 year wrong, '98 not '96. I'm still buying parts for the job. At least I'm looking forward to it since you did such a fantastic job. Go Rav 4s!
@@StoneKathryn Sure! The little propane torch should work, if you need it (it may just take a little longer to heat up the bolt and washer with a smaller torch). I think even a butane torch is better than nothing, but it just takes longer. Here's something to consider: maybe start the job at the crankshaft bolt -- meaning, when you start the job, go straight to the crankshaft bolt right away, instead of later (as I did in the video). The reason I say this is because if you end up hitting a wall and need to "blip the starter" to remove the bolt, then at least you'll still have the battery and alternator connected, so you won't have to back-track. Here is what I mean: when you're ready to start the job, remove the right front wheel and the plastic fender liner thing, and start right away on the crankshaft bolt before you do anything else. If you have a high-torque impact wrench or can borrow one, I would try that the impact wrench first, while using a tool to hold the pulley in place. Use the torch if you need to. This method SHOULD get the bolt out -- you might have to heat it for a good while (minute) with the smaller torch. If it works, leave the loosened bolt in place, and then go back to the steps starting at the beginning of the video (ie, remove battery....) If that doesn't work, or if you don't have an impact wrench, then try with a good long breaker bar and your pulley holder tool. Be sure to use a good 6-point impact socket and 1/2" drive tools (do not use a 12-point socket or 3/8" drive tools). Put a pipe on the end of the breaker bar to get even more leverage, if you can fit it. If you strike out on the breaker bar method and don't have an impact wrench, then there is still another way -- you can "blip" the starter, as mentioned in the video. Many people use the starter to loosen the crankshaft bolt: to do that, you do these steps (assuming you have the battery and alternator still in place): 1.) Disconnect all the spark plug wires -- you want the starter to spin the engine, but you do NOT want the engine to fire/start. 2.) Put a good 6-point socket on a 1/2" drive breaker bar on the crankshaft bolt, and use it to rotate the engine clockwise so that you can brace that breaker bar against the frame somewhere totally solid. The breaker bar must be against something that will prevent the breaker bar from turning clockwise with the engine. Also, the breaker bar needs to be against something very solid that won't be damaged by the breaker bar attempting to turn clockwise, and solid that will NOT budge when the engine turns the bar. 3.) Wire the breaker bar in place -- this is very important, you don't want this bar flying around if something goes wrong. Wire it very well. 4.) Blip the starter for a second using the ignition key: the starter will turn the flywheel, and then in turn the flywheel will turn the crankshaft. Since the 3SFE crank turns clockwise, the breaker bar will want to turn clockwise too, but the frame will prevent it from turning, so the breaker bar will oppose the rotation of the crankshaft bolt, and so the crankshaft bolt will get a counter-clockwise force and hopefully it will break free. Just flip the starter once for a second or two, then check the bolt -- hopefully it will be loose, but it not, blip it again. Here is a good explanation & demo on a different Toyota -- the main difference will be since your '00 doesn't have a distributor, you'll just disconnect the spark plug wires or pull the fuel pump fuse (to prevent the engine from starting): th-cam.com/video/kkeDnSeCEoE/w-d-xo.html This method only works to remove the bolt -- you'll still need a tool to hold the pulley still when it comes time to replace and torque down the bolt later. You might consider starting here, and then you'll know that your biggest problem is solved first! Good luck!
@@L35inColorado Thanks so much for telling me about the blip method because I don't have an impact wrench! Thanks for the video link! I think getting that done first thing will really help.
I cannot express in words how well made this video is. WOW! A bigger job than I needed, but I will for sure subscribe and look back here when I need to do more than replace my alternator!!
Wow, thanks for your comment, and thanks for subscribing! There are a few other Rav4 videos on the channel. I hope you find them helpful if you ever need them! : )
@@L35inColorado My 2dr Rav4 has stayed in the stable while several fun sports cars have come and gone.. it's small, dependable, and never really gave me a fuss. I believe the alternator bearings are going now.... I have a new woooshing, sucking, whirring sound.... certainly in pulley side of engine... will check it out and dig in asap. 187,000 miles of FUN! ARB springs, OME shocks/struts, Jeep wheels with Hankooks make this a mini monster truck. It's rusty, it's banged up, and its a blast.
Fantastic video with practical information. It's amazing how clearly you managed to capture everything. This allowed me to complete the job in 20 hours. Outside in the driveway. The water pump on my recently purchased RAV4 had seized up. It was the original one from 1998, never replaced...
I'm sorry I missed your comment - Oustanding, work on your Rav4 timing belt DIY! That is remarkable that the original water pump lasted so long, and good catch to save the day after it siezed. Nice job, and thanks for watching : )
Hi there. Thanks for your video it really helped me a lot. I did a few things different which I found way more easier. 1) engine mount to remove and install I lower the engine all the way down ,remove the harmonic pulley it came out clean. 2)engine insulator to remove and install I took the abs mounting bolt out bolt out plus the 2 bolts on the top outer bracket gave more room to remove that bolt under the ABS.
I was impressed with how well you handled the issue with the crankshaft bolt. That one would've cost me a LOT of swearing and at least 2-3 mellow-out beers to reset. The diy tools are such a necessity with doing these kind of jobs. I mean has anyone else tried to track down one of the likely 6-12 or so specialty tools the factory manual calls out for with a job like this? I watched the entire video and plan to knock mine out at the end of the month using this heavily as a template. You are one hell of a mechanic 🔧⚙🔨🤙 Thank you!
Thanks for the comment! Haha, yes, the "SST" or "special service tools" are usually unobtainable or too expensive, so work-arounds are a must. Good luck with your job, and please post back with any tips!
I'm sorry I missed your comment -- there's much better mechanics out there than me but they very busy and don't have time to record their work! : ) Thanks for watching!
This is a great video. Convinced me to hire it out to a pro. Just one job I don't want to handle myself. Very nice detail and explanation of the entire process. Very good job.
On my 1998 RAV4 I replaced Timing Belt, Water Pump, Front Seals, Oil Seals on a local Toyota service center , it costed me almost 2000 € , you are lucky to be able to do this by yourself
Dear ms. Les, this is by far the best diy for timing belt replacement. I'm planning to buy a 2005 camry v6 (1MZ-FE) that still uses a timing belt. Yesterday I was watching the other guy's channel where he was replacing the timing belt as if he was in a race track. Then out of the blue youtube suggested this video. Most guys in Indonesia don't do diy repairs. They just take it to a toyota dealership n then complain how expensive the repair bills are. Well, I still need to replay the video a couple of times to build up confident. Thank's for the video
Wow, all the way from Indonesia -- that's cool! : ) Oh yes, that 1MZ-FE engine is a great engine: here in the US, you'll find them with over 250K miles and still running strong. There are lots of videos the MZ series engine -- Here's a great video of that timing belt job in a first-gen Sienna (1MZ-FE): th-cam.com/video/WwUTWIZdETo/w-d-xo.html Thanks for watching! : )
@@L35inColorado Ahh, thanks for the recommendation, Mr. Pen pusher, the gentleman with an european accent. I stumbled across his video a couple of times. I hope your channel grows exponentially in years to come. Although we don't own the same vehicle, I sure learned alot from your work ethics and professionalism.
I must say this is probably the most impressive TH-cam compilation I have experienced. Detail, calm and perfectionist. So well done my Lady, excellent.
I don't own a Rav but your videos a so professionally done I just had to watch...... In addition I must state you are one VERY patient human .... Again your videos set a standard that no one on youtube can compete with.... OUTSTANDING video !!!!!
Thank you, @carl suiter that's very kind! If you're interested, this here is the youtuber whose video inspired me to make this one -- his video was the most detailed DIY I had ever seen on youtube, and it helped me with my 1ZZFE engine rebuild a couple years ago: th-cam.com/video/A595LR4SQpI/w-d-xo.html I think that showing a lot of detail helps people to plan out their project, and removes some of the anxiety that comes with trying something new. I hope my videos help people who are new to DIY car repair to gain a little confidence, and to see that they can do it. :) Thanks again!
After a week and a half, I was able to complete the job almost following every step in this video. I decided to skip the cam shaft seal replacement after i could not unbolt its sproket. I had no signs on oil leaks there and had to heat the bolt on the crank pulley to unbolt it as well so it seemed to me that the dealership mechanic had tightened everything too tight. Thank you so much for posting. My daily driver for 21 years is a '99 rav4 with 346,000 miles and hopefully it has another 150,000 more miles left. Thank you again.
WOW!! 346K miles is amazing! Great job on completing the timing belt, too -- I'm so glad that the video helped :) Yes, those crank pulley bolts are sometimes re-installed with an impact wrench instead of a torque wrench, and when that is done, they are a real bear to remove (not much fun, either). Thank you for your comment, and I hope you make 500K miles on your '99!
This is truly the best instructional - repair video 👍🙂 on TH-cam.👍👍 Excellent professional step by step with superb camera angles/pop-up description with clear explanation of parts and tools needed to complete the job. I do have a recommendation for a tool that is a game changer and that is a Milwaukee High torque M-18 Fuel impact wrench wrench it's a beast and will remove any bolt. Best wishes for a prosperous future! God Bless and Thanks for taking the time to produce this fantastic video😊
Thank you, your comment is very kind! I hope the video is helpful for you. Yes -- that Milwaukee is a game changer -- I don't have one, but someone helped me at the junkyard once, and he had one, and it spun an axle nut off like nothing. Since I shot this video last year, I picked up a Kobalt 1/2" air impact, and that has been very useful. Maybe one day I'll get the Milwaukee. Good luck with your repair, and God bless, too :)
@@L35inColorado yeah. I have coolant dripping off my oil pan. I just changed the oil and it’s dark, but just oil. So I think it’s the water pump. I was hoping it was the lower radiator hose, but nope. If it is the water pump, I might as well have them do the timing belt right?
@@fishsandwich610 Ah man, I'm sorry that's happening to you. It very well may be the water pump, or if the water pump was replaced previously as the aftermarket "face only" style, sometimes those gaskets leak over time because they are hard to install. It is easier to install the "complete" water pump style, like the one shown in the video. About the timing belt: Yes, it usually makes sense to replace the timing belt when doing a water pump. It is also a good idea to replace the thermostat at that time, too. Your mechanic might also recommend some of the items in the video (seals and oil pump gasket, idler, tensioner pulley) if he sees any oil leaks or issues while in there, too. If you decide to have the timing belt replaced as well, I recommend the kit shown in the video (Aisin), because it includes high-quality water pump, belt, and pulleys for under $100: Aisin TKT-002: www.amazon.com/Aisin-TKT-002-Engine-Timing-Water/dp/B008EEYVDQ/ Check the Pinned Comment for some other part numbers of seals, gaskets, etc that are often replaced during this job. Best of luck to you!
I gave up on my attempts for trying to get that timer cover back on for the day and decided to find a video to help. Great detail. I knew in my heart, the engine mount is going to need removed. Better luck tomorrow, if it don't rain.
Yes -- its a bit of a hassle, but that engine mount has to come out. As mentioned in the video, be sure to jack the engine up or down as needed to give yourself enough wiggle room to remove/install the cover. Once you have the cover out, leave the engine in the same spot (don't lift/lower it, if possible) and then replace the cover in the same way as you removed it. It is easy to lose a lot of time on that darn cover because it seems only to fit in one way! They can be more than a little frustrating. Thanks for your comment, and good luck!
I know this is a few years old now but I've just finished this job and this is the most comprehensive video I've ever watched on a repair. Every nut and bolt is covered. No guess work. The only difference was RHD so no battery to remove. Fortunately no ABS either. We had similar issues with the crank bolt, but heat and impact also worked. Thank you so much 😁
Wow, nice - thank for you adding your tips on for the RHD models! Yes, that crank bolt can be very tight, especially if the previous mechanic installed it with an impact wrench. Thanks for watching, and again for adding your tips, and Happy New Year! : )
@@L35inColorado a couple of months on and I'm concerned it's making a bit of a noise. Does the tensioner ever need to be re-adjusted as the belt beds in? Can you whip the top timing cover off to do so?
Yes I'm working on 1997 Rav 4. Wish I seen your video before I got into it. Lol. Made a cam sprocket tool some what like yours. Haven't tried it yet. The suppression part of the motor mount I had problems with. The nut that is welded to the frame that the bolts go too broke away from frame. Couldn't get the mount off but it was loose enough to move around to get the new belt, tensioner and cam seal on. Now what do I do. I have a couple of ideas. Cut a hole in the wheel well big enough to get a wrench on the nut??? Another problem I cam across was that the previous repair person stripped the cam bot so it was a real bitch to get off. Luckily I made sure the six point socket rested flat on the bolt. I got lucky and got it off and ordered a new one. Not to try this tool you inspired me to make to torque down the cam bolt. I already had it running for a few seconds and it sounded grate. I took off the power steering mount to get better access. Every still is a bitch but in happy its finally moving forward. My wife bought the car cheap a year and a half ago because I told her I could get it running. She started talking her classes that lasted a year and half way through the doctor told us that her cancer came back and it was everywhere. She quit the classes and prepare for the worst. She lost her battle with cancer this past April 19 2019. So this has really important meaning to fix it real nice for a family that can use it because I spent a lot of money and time on it to make sure it was in A1 shape. It has 250,000 miles on it but it drives grate. Can't wait to get it on the road a get it to this women who has kids works real hard and wants to bug it. So there is a happy ending in some places. Thank you again and blessings to you and your family
@@jamesbean1374 I'm very sorry for the delay in responding -- youtube had your second comment marked as "spam" and did not post it or notify me. Firstly, I'm so very sorry for wife's death -- I will pray for the repose of her soul and I send my condolences to you and your family. Regarding the motor mount that threads into the chassis: yes, I have seen something similar before (the nut threads were stripped in my case), and so I had to drill up (from the bottom) and re-tap the nut. In your case, since the nut is missing, I would drill out enough access to get a nut in there: if it is the same nut as the one that stripped in my case, the hole lines up very well with a pre-existing hole that takes a small 10mm screw for the fender liner. Another option would be to install a "riv-nut" or rivet nut from the top. Here is an example of a rivnut: th-cam.com/video/tV6RXQjHecc/w-d-xo.html I love rivnuts and have used them many times -- they are great for when you can't get behind a surface. There are M12 rivnuts available (I'm not sure what that bolt is, but I think it is an M12: you can take it to Lowe's and fine out for sure). If you used a rivnut of the same size as that bolt, you could re-use the bolt. As for the cam sprocket bolt -- oh, man, good catch! It is a huge mess when a cam bolt strips, so I'm glad you spotted it, used the correct tool, and replaced it! Well done! Thanks again for your comments -- and I will pray for your whole family! God bless!
Returning to comment. My task to replace the timing belt and water pump on the Rav4 was completed and a success. With the help of this excellent video it made the job so much more easier. It was daunting for a first time, but it was far easier than expected thanks to you. I did check the timing marks too many times, but when I told my Mech friend, he said he does too as one blip and the engine is toast. Need to be be methodical and check like you and easier. Top Girl and thank you!
Thank you so much for this comment -- comments like this makes all the time it takes to make these videos worth it! I'm so glad that the video helped, and major congratulations to you on completing your first timing belt job! Well done!! : ) She's good for many, many years to come!
Thanks so much for putting this video together. You cover most everything I needed to do my timing belt overhaul. Only thing missed on my end is I needed to replace the entire oil pump assembly which required additional steps. No problem though. The maddening rattle coming from the oil pump is now gone and I can confidently sell this to a new owner. Take care L35 in Colorado.
Thanks so much for your step by step video, couldn't have done the job without you! We actually drove the Rav4 yesterday. Thought we would never get it back together. We were able to get the power steering belt on and off just by loosening the bottom bolt only, didn't have to get the top tough one. We got the kit that just had the front water pump, of course we stripped the phillips screw, that goodness we looked better in the box, it came with a spare screw. When putting the belt on, the belt was always too loose, feeling the loose belt also caused the crankshaft and camshaft to lose it's mark, finally got someone to hold the belt from the water pump to the camshaft and hold the belt, making sure with the mirror that it was on the teeth, the belt I noticed wants to skip when your trying to put it on the tensioner pulley. We lost our marks on everything, so putting the belt on was harder.
Wow, great job on your DIY and working through those challenges! I'm glad that everything is back together -- thanks for your comment and for sharing your tips! : )
Thanks AGAIN for a great tutorial on this repair. I was unlucky and had to do this repair again when my new water pump failed after about 7K miles. One thing I did different was to remove the long stud with a stud remover tool from the engine mount which attaches to the block and that made removing the mount much easier - relatively speaking :) It's all good now, thank you for your excellent video :)
HI MY first Toyota timing belt great video thank. L35 when you are loading your tensioner pulley put your old timing belt around it letting it hang out the bottom put your foot in it easy to pull down all the way. Thank you
Thank you for this step-by-step video. It has proven to be very helpful to me. I named my RAV4 'Exxon Valdez' because it was leaking so much oil. This is a miserable little job due to the access restrictions. Thankfully, my RAV4 does not have ABS, so I had 'luxurious' amounts of space to work.
Awesome DIY. I got so lucky as to fix my first timing belt in a parking lot while passing thru a town. Didn't get done till 2am. Interesting thing I found. If you are sitting in the wheel well area. There is a grommet you can remove and it gives you perfect line of sight to the timing marks on the cam. As I didn't have a spot mirror this discovery was invaluable and somewhat a major secret that I have stumbled across. Thank you for being so descriptive and including part numbers. As im on my 2nd rav4 it needs some help in the water pump department and I'll be replacing lots of seals thanks to your video.
Oh gosh, I'm sorry you had to do this repair in a parking lot -- that's pretty tough! But that's great that you got it done, for sure. Thank you for the tip regarding the grommet in the wheel well area -- I will certainly check that out. Thanks for your comment, and good luck with the rest of your repairs!
A small update. I finally got the time, not the help though, to get in and tackle replacing the water pump. The tip you show about the timing marks on the crank gear itself proved to be incredibly self saving. Whilst stretching the new timing belt I accidentally pulled too hard and rolled the crank a few teeth. Once everything I thought was realigned and ready to roll it turned out I was still off by 1 tooth. Long story short, I fired up the car and it purrs like a kitten. Not a drip or leak anywhere. I'll be sending others your way to get help with DIY Toyota issues. Thanks
Thank you for the great video! The step by step instructions helped be replace the water pump housing, thermostat and belt. I just finished the job. I couldn't have done it without your help!
So I made a rookie mistake and didn't mark my timing marks with a good enough marker (I used a Sharpie). They got rubbed/cleaned off - your video saved me so I knew where the factory timing marks are!! Thanks so much!!
It's really somewhat enjoying when working on this rav4 , today i changed the location of my rav4 vsv which is hidden behind the engine and successfully fitted it within my reach behind the intake manifold 😊
Yes, that VSV is in a strange location for access, especially on the 4WD! I am editing a Rav4 EGR video which will show the throttle body removal, EGR valve and tube removal, and IAC removal, as well as the location of the VSV. I hope to have that up within the next couple of weeks. Thanks for posting, and have fun with your Rav4!
@@L35inColorado yeah that repair with p0401 code has annoyed me from a long time and my rav4 never ends this code , will be waiting to see this repair 😁
Fantastic walkthrough. I started this job last fall, but failed to remove the crankshaft pulley bolt before the bitter cold of winter drove me indoors. This will be extremely helpful. Thank you. Very helpful that you mentioned all the tools and tool setups you used.
I'm glad the video will be useful for you! Yes, that crankshaft bolt can be a little tricky if you don't have a pulley holder or some kind. If you can't make a special tool like I did, then I would try a chain wrench to hold the pulley, while you turn the bolt with a long breaker bar. As I mention in the video, I had to use a torch and an impact wrench...but it is NOT usually that difficult to break these free as long as you have a way to hold the pulley. Good luck with your project when you re-start the job! Be sure to read the Pinned Comment above, because I have some notes there that are important, and also have all the timestamps so you can pick up where you need to. Take care!
What an outstanding video! Very thorough and conscientious and helpful. You have tremendous patience! Thanks for posting, I'll be doing this job tomorrow💫
I performed the repair on a customers car on friday. I think what helped me the most was that hidden little timing notch on the crankshaft gear- Thanks for identifying that, very helpful. It all turned out great- thanks!
I really appreciate the video. I’m a pretty capable mechanic fixer or most things but the video gave me a little more confidence on completing the job. Excellent job. I thought by the video you have replaced many. Toyota service tech. thank you I have now fixed the broken timing belt on my rav4.
Okay. I’ve now watched this video nearly twice. I’ve subscribed so I can find it easier next time! Funny how I’ve watched vids covering this job in Toyota passenger cars…they make it look easy. Not so fast, compadre! My ‘97 has been in the family since it was new. With only 72K on it I figure maybe I should give this a go. Well, maybe not. Your vid is a little over 2 hours. It shouldn’t take me over 2 weeks if I rustle up the parts ahead of time. :-))) I’ve read your update notes and will keep my laptop running as I go. Thank you very much for this super-fine work you’ve done!
Thanks for subscribing! Wow, just 72K miles on a '97?? That is remarkable - nice job keeping your first-gen Rav4 on the road! Thanks for watching, and good luck! : )
@@L35inColorado My sister was going to trade it in…for nothing…I offered about $1000 more because it only had 54,000 then! We actually drove from home in Arizona to our son’s in Monument, CO, just once, when we decided it was a “close to home” car. Certainly worth every penny I spend on her!
Best detailed video yet bare none. Muchas gracias. Already have done on 1999 Toyota rav4. Dayco timing kit with aisin water pump. Great reliable engine the plus is non interference. Has 240,000 miles >I need to repla e the valve cover gasket due to oil leak. Watched it all . I've done 4 so far 1995 honda odyssey, 2006 subie sti, 1998 honda prelude and the rav nice lisle tool
Thank you so much for this. I followed along with every step while I did it myself. First water pump/ timing belt I've ever done and seems to be a success. You're an absolute legend!
I hate incompetence. And I mean fuuuukin HATE it. Seeing your trouble with the crank bolt scared me. Luckily God was giving on mine - regular Milwaukee M18 and it came out. Your ingenuity... props.
Oh yeah, it drives me crazy when crank bolts are over-torqued! I'm glad you didn't have any trouble - I've heard lots of good things about the Milwaukee M18 line. Thanks for watching and good luck! : )
@@L35inColorado I'm gonna go ahead and do this update now so I don't forget it. As a suggestion, take off the bolts for the top timing cover, then the bolts for the lower. Remove the lower cover, then the motor mount bracket will kind of tumble in a way down through where the cover would have been in the way before. Then you can remove the top cover. It's a lot easier that way. More updates to come if I find any suggestions. Other than that thank you again!
This is the best video ever! Great camera work, all torques and specs from the FSM, every step clear, with tips for the difficult parts and some DIY tools to save more cash. Without this I would not be attempting this job and the mechanic shops would have reamed me once again. Thank you so much L35! Just one tiny thing: at hour 1:00 and 1:05, when you use PVC pipe as a seal installer, you mention a coupling might possibly work instead of cutting a piece of PVC. Actually a coupling will have a wider diameter than the pipe, since it is made to go over two pieces of pipe to connect them. So you gotta get the pipe as you did. [Edit] This is very minor and I only mention it because I happen to work at Home Depot lol. Great job!
Thank you -- I hope the video helps!! Great point about the PCV coupling size: yes, it will be a bit bigger, so perhaps it wouldn't work (I haven't tried it because I just use what you say in the video). Be sure to check the Pinned Comment for some important info and timestamps. Good luck on the project, and thanks again! : )
@@L35inColorado Thank you for the reply! Quick question if I may: to loosen the crankshaft bolt, my Haynes mentions putting a prybar in the flywheel to block it from turning. Any thoughts on that method?
@@aaxen7255 It is possible to do that, as sometimes people do that when bolting the flywheel on itself. There is not a whole lot of access to the flywheel on the Rav4 because of the position of the transaxle. If you do try that, you must be absolutely certain that you won't accidentally damage the flywheel, especially if using something like a prybar. Personally, I wouldn't do that for removing the crankbolt because I have my little pulley holder tool (and now I have much better impacts than I did when I shot this video). Personally, I would try an impact (any impact) and a torch before I touched the flywheel because a damaged flywheel would be a huge pain in the neck. In a pinch without an impact, you can put a breaker bar on the bolt, secure the bar clockwise, remove the fuel pump fuse/relay and/or disconnect the spark plug wires and blip the starter. Here is an explanation of the process -- if you do this, be certain to use a strong 6-point socket and a 1/2" drive (or 3/4" drive) breaker bar, because this method can easily break a 3/8" breaker bar: www.rav4world.com/threads/how-to-break-the-crankshaft-bolt-loose-first-time-evertime.273369/ Good luck!
@@L35inColorado Thank you for the reply and all the info! It does seem like your tool is the best solution. I saw other DIY tools people posted online and it seems like the best design too. Did you use a carbide bit to drill the holes in the metal bar?
I thumbed up even though I don't have a Rav4!!! Everything looks easy until all the bolts are put back 🙂 What a great job you did! I would need some serious moral support to do a DIY job like this! The good news is that now I know how to change the alternator.
What an awesome step-by step - thank you very much. Yeah, I had the same issue with the crankshaft bolt on my daughters 99 RAV4, but heat, a couple of taps with a hammer and an impact gun finally did it after almost 5 hours of trying everything else. HOWEVER, I'm now stuck trying to remove the camshaft bolt....that SOB refuses to budge and access is so limited. I might just have to leave that seal alone. Once again, thanks for an excellent video.
I'm glad you liked the video -- I'm sorry I missed your comment for several days. I hope you got that camshaft bolt off: its so tight in there that its difficult to get a good angle on that bolt to get the leverage needed to break it free. Worse case scenario, you can remove the valve cover, and there's a spot on the camshaft for a crescent wrench to hold the camshaft, if you can't get a tool to hold the pulley. Thanks for your comment, and good luck!
Because of this video, it’s your fault that I attempted this project. I’m kidding! I’m an idiot and I was going to do it without the video. You never mentioned gaskets on either timing cover. Mine had what looked like badly deteriorated gray RTV. Necessary to replace it? And, remember the parts where you said, “Don’t drop it!”? My timing gear was permanently affixed to the crankshaft. Toyota tells us to remove it by hand. Nope. If that doesn’t work they say to pry it off with two screwdrivers. Nope, after spraying rust cutter on it and letting it sit. They never mentioned using a slide-hammer, but I have one. Several whacks later and that timing gear flew off the shaft! No, I didn’t catch it. Fortunately, Amazon had one in stock. Again, thank you for these videos!
The timing cover gaskets are mentioned at 01:24:05 and the Toyota part numbers are shown - as mentioned in the video, I use a certain craft store foam to replace them when they are damaged/missing because the Toyota parts are too expensive! But you can either replace with the Toyota parts or use something else (a high temp tolerant foam). If the old gasket is missing/broken, it is a good idea to replace it. I would not use RTV because it is not necessary for the gasket to seal water- or oil-tight like you'd need on a timing chain case cover - these timing covers are just to reduce dust contamination and protect the belt and pulleys in case something falls in there. And yes, those crank sprockets can be tough sometimes! Often they just pull off, but sometimes - like in your case - they are big trouble! I'm glad you got it sorted out : ) Thanks for sharing your tips, and thanks for watching. Good luck!
@@L35inColorado Remember I said I’m an idiot? I just realized that you’ve provided time hacks for most every step of this procedure. I wonder if anybody had enough time on there hands to “thumb thru” the entire video looking for something. Certainly not me!
@@L35inColorado Happy Easter! Finished this project today. Only glitch was the crankshaft timing gear. Tools I made using your “specs” were money savers. Yes, “hardest part of this job is access”…quite the understatement! If I do this again (hahaha) I’m pulling the engine! :-))) Thanks for all your help!
@@barotraumabruce4245 Happy Easter to you, too! That's great - nice job on your DIY...now you get some time for your knuckles to heal from having to reach into all those super tight spaces! : )
Thank you L35 for making this video! I watched every minute, sometimes several times, as I worked through this job. You covered every detail, and I appreciated having the torque values as well. My car runs like new! I also referred to a similar video by Lab Coat Paul which is very concise, but sometimes I needed the extra detailed footage you provide. You also showed me how to do an oil change on my RAV4 in one of your other videos. I will be trying that next.
Wow, I'm glad the video helped! Yes, Lab Coat Paul has great Rav4 videos too -- I'm just a lot slower than him! Haha Congrats on your timing belt DIY -- that is a huge accomplishment and so an oil change will be a piece of cake compared to the timing belt job! Thanks for watching : )
What an amazing video and SUPER clear. If anyone with a little knowledge attempts this using your video they should have no problems whatsoever. Best step by step I've seen in a long time! Thank you for this! I just bought a Rav4 that needs a water pump job and this is just what I needed. (BTW - nice Chris Fix reference @ 1:18:47. :) )
Chris Fix, yep! Thanks for kind words, and I hope you like your new Rav4! Be sure to read through the pinned comment with the timestamps for extra info. Good luck with your repair!
Your video is state of the art. You were paying attention in college. Absolutely amazing content. After watching this, I am in awe of all the viewers here at this site who can attempt this job themselves with your help. I wish I had the brain power and technical know how to complete this, but I do not. I stick to the easier bits. To you and all your viewers, does the timing belt kit absolutely NEED to be replaced at 60,000 miles, or does it have lead way to 90,000? I live here in Colorado too, in the Boulder area. I have a 2000 RAV 4 with 155,000. Last timing belt job was done at 90,000 in California by Toyota. Do not know how thorough dealer mechanics are compared to you. I am looking for an independent Toyota shop in the area that does as great a job as you do, and can prove it. If you or any of your viewers know of any humans who possess this high quality of work ethic, please let me know in comment. Finding experts in the field is like finding a needle in a haystack !! Thank you for your wonderful video.
Wow, thanks, I appreciate your comment! For the '98 - '00 Rav4's, Toyota increased the service interval for the timing belt to 90K miles (the previous spec was the 60K miles you mentioned for the '96 - '97 models), or 7 years, which ever comes first. I have replaced belts on Rav4s that where older than 7 years with fewer than 90K miles, and the belts still looked good (though they were quality belts in the first place, such as Toyota OE, Gates, or Mitsuboshi). The good news if that if you previously had the belt replaced at a dealership, then you would have a quality belt (Toyota OE) unless there was something super shady going on at the dealership. The pulleys (idler and tensioner pulleys) do sometimes start to show bearing wear before the belts show much wear, though, which is why the pulleys are typically replaced 'while you're in there'. The water pump, too, will sometimes start to weep (you'd likely notice a coolant leak) or have bearing wear, which is why the water pump is also replaced as part of the job. Cam and crank seals are also often replaced. The thing is that our Rav4s are all now over 20 years old, and oil seals (even the best seals) just don't last forever, so if those seals haven't been replaced before, then it is a good idea to also do that "while you're in there". All these items drive the price of the job up, though I think it is generally worthwhile to replace them (unless they have already been replaced). For these first generation Rav4's, it seems like the oil pump gasket (the "animal cookie gasket") is often the first thing to go which requires getting in there since it causes an oil leak, as shown in the video. Since you have to remove the belt to get to that part, shops will obviously recommend a full job if they see that leak. And I always recommend to have that gasket replaced whenever doing a timing belt job because that gasket is certain to leak at some point (they dry up and turn brittle). I agree with your sentiment about finding honest shops: it is harder and harder these days, which is just too bad. Independent ("indy") Toyota shops tend, in my experience, to be a little better than most "general" shops and less expensive, higher quality work than the dealership (and a good indy shop will offer a 2 year warranty while the dealership is only 12 months). For the full job as shown in the video (timing belt, pulleys, spring, cam seal, crank seal, oil pump gasket and shaft seal, water pump, thermostat, drive belts, etc), I would expect estimates in the $1000 - $1200 range. They will charge more if you have ABS because it's harder to remove the engine mount if you have ABS. A good shop should be able to email you a detailed estimate with all the part numbers, prices, and labor, shop fees, coolant, etc, so that you can see everything they will replace for the price they quote, and they ought not to give you any trouble if you ask for all the used parts back (sometimes people do this to confirm that they parts were replaced, since unfortunately sometimes shops aren't honest). I know it can be hard to justify this high expensive on an older vehicle, but the Rav4 has proven to be a very reliable vehicle, and once this job is done, they can continue to run well for many more miles. I hope this helps! Thanks again for your comment, and thanks for watching : )
@@L35inColorado Thank you so much for the reply L35. That is great news that I can run to 90,000, and that the dealership used quality parts. Now I can concentrate on the easy bits. I'm glad I watched your video. Noticed near the end when the engine was idling what it actually sounds like. Does have a touch of clatter compared to a Honda 2.3 liter 4 cylinder, which is super quiet at idle. At first I thought it had bad valves, because I had never heard this engine operate. But all is well. Mine sounds exactly as yours does at idle. Truly appreciate your input for my questions. GOD Bless you.
You'll do great! Be sure to read the Pinned Comment for important information and timestamps. Also, there is a comment below from @Connor Stockman who offers an extra tip on removing/installing the engine mount more efficiently -- check it out, and maybe try it. Good luck with your repair!
@@L35inColorado Job done. Took 2 days. This video was consulted constantly all weekend. Thank you once more for your patience and dedication to quality and comprehensiveness.
@@superdupersalem Ah man, I'm sorry to hear that, but at least you eliminated that job and are set for a long time (on timing belt). If you're getting an oil leak in that area, check the oil pan gasket: it is rare that they leak, because is it a form-in-place gasket, but it can leak over time. Also, there is a power steering fluid leak which can look like an oil leak, because the original Toyota power steering fluid is actually undyed ATF (so its dark brown, like oil). The most common PS leak that looks like a pan gasket or oil pump housing leak is a PS leak that starts at the larger hose on the PS reservoir. It will drip down the hose, then collect on the oil pan's lip, behind the crank pulley. The best way to pin down ATF is to smell it -- it stinks and doesn't smell like engine oil (even though undyed ATF looks like engine oil). Also, you can watch the level in the PS reservoir to see if you're loosing any fluid. You can smell the ATF in the power steering reservoir and use it as a "smell" guide, to compare it to engine oil. Good luck, and thanks for posting back!
yes one of the best DIY videos i've seen. if it's not too much trouble, could you please publish a list of all the tools you bought to complete the job. i'm about to replace my water pump on my 1998 RAV4, this video is a great help. i sincerely appreciate you sharing your time and knowledge. well done you and thank you.
Thank you, I hope the video helps when you do the job! To answer your question, I already had all of my tools, because I have done this job before and work on cars a bit. I think I show all the tools and set-ups in the video as I'm pulling the parts, but I'll try to list some by memory below. The only "special" tools are the ones I made to hold the crankshaft pulley and the camshaft sprocket -- but there are work-arounds for these, too, as I mention in the video. If I had to buy all the tools from scratch, but just the minimum for this job, then I would probably buy these following tools (which I already have, and did use -- I love Harbor Freight Tools because they have great prices and usually good enough quality, and you can usually use a 20% off coupon on your phone and get them for even cheaper): - 1/2-in drive breaker (needed for the crank bolt, lug nuts, and engine insulator bolts): www.harborfreight.com/12-in-drive-25-in-breaker-bar-67933.html - 1/2-in drive six point shallow impact socket set, includes a 19-mm for the crank bolt and a 21-mm for the lug nuts: www.harborfreight.com/13-pc-12-in-drive-metric-impact-socket-set-64387.html -1/2-in drive ratchet (any good one with a 12" handle or longer), this is nice because its low-profile: www.harborfreight.com/12-in-drive-professional-low-profile-ratchet-62330.html - 1/2-in drive extension set (needed to reach the engine insulator nuts and bolts): www.harborfreight.com/4-pc-12-in-drive-impact-socket-extension-set-67972.html - 1/2-in drive 14-mm six-point deep socket for the engine insulator nuts (buy a single socket, or a deep socket metric set from HF): single: www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-Metric-1-2-in-Drive-Deep-6-point-14mm-Impact-Socket/3388854 set: www.harborfreight.com/13-pc-12-in-drive-sae-impact-deep-socket-set-69560.html - this HF pass-through ratchet and 6-point socket set (used for engine bracket bolts, power steering bolt, ABS bolt, camshaft bolt): www.harborfreight.com/21-pc-sae-metric-go-thru-socket-set-62305.html - this little 10mm wrench (hard-to-reach bolts on water pump bypass tube and thermostat housing): www.lowes.com/pd/CRAFTSMAN-10mm-12-Point-Metric-Standard-Combination-Wrench/1000595995 (that particular wrench is not needed -- any small 10-mm wrench will work, but it has to be small to fit) This is a great kit, too: www.harborfreight.com/5-piece-metric-s-type-wrench-set-99699.html - torque wrenches (I'd use three -- 1/4" drive, 3/8" drive and 1/2" drive torque wrenches because of the torque ranges for this job): you can get these for $10 each at harbor freight with a coupon (google "harbor freight torque wrench coupon") www.harborfreight.com/14-in-drive-click-type-torque-wrench-63881.html www.harborfreight.com/38-in-drive-click-type-torque-wrench-63880.html www.harborfreight.com/12-in-drive-click-type-torque-wrench-63882.html *For this particular job, you technically only need the 1/4" and 3/8" drive torque wrenches above, because the maximum torque is 80 ft-lbs (crank bolt), and that HF 3/8" drive goes up to 80 ft-lbs. But I'm not strong enough to use a 3/8" drive for that much torque -- I need a longer torque wrench, so that's why I would used a 1/2" torque wrench for the crank bolt and lug nuts. - spark plug socket (it is not necessary to remove the spark plugs for this job, but I do it because it makes it much easier to turn the engine by hand): www.harborfreight.com/38-in-drive-58-in-sparkplug-socket-67792.html - universal-joint socket adapter set (for the rear insulator bolt): www.harborfreight.com/3-pc-universal-joint-socket-adapter-set-63141.html - socket adapter set (so you can use different sockets on different drive ratchets): www.harborfreight.com/4-pc-high-visibility-socket-adapter-set-62851.html - PB Blaster is helpful too, especially if you encounter rust: www.walmart.com/ip/The-Original-PB-B-laster-Penetrant/16816083 I might be forgetting some. I'm blessed to have a lot of tools, so I have a good selection at my disposal. I didn't list a 3/8-in drive metric socket set and ratchet, only because off the top of my head, I *think* I could get all the bolts with either the 1/2-in ratchet for the pass-through HF ratchet shown above. But in reality, I use 3/8-in drive ratchets and sockets all the time, and did on this job for many of the bolts (you can see in the video -- the black ratchet is my 1/2" and the chrome is my 3/8"). I really like this one in particular, and this is my most commonly used ratchet and socket set-up www.harborfreight.com/38-in-drive-professional-flex-head-ratchet-62321.html www.harborfreight.com/8-piece-38-in-drive-metric-impact-socket-set-67870.html (But I don't think you'll be able to get all the bolts with a 3/8" drive because some are very tight, so that's why I just stepped up to 1/2" in the list above) I also really like the Lisle seal puller, 58430. If you aren't doing your seals, don't get it, but if you are, it really is a time and frustration saver: www.amazon.com/Lisle-58430-Shaft-Type-Puller/dp/B000FPYW4K/ref=asc_df_B000FPYW4K/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312065537890&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=17584144626055090768&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1014602&hvtargid=aud-801381245258:pla-633100651832&psc=1 The Lisle No-Spill coolant funnel isn't required, either, but if you start doing your own coolant system work, it is great thing to have: www.amazon.com/Lisle-24680-Spill-Free-Funnel/dp/B00A6AS6LY Here is now to bleed with a regular $1 funnel: th-cam.com/video/nThsFGa1vuE/w-d-xo.html All the part numbers for replacement parts are show in the video at the beginning (first 3 minutes). The coolant part # is shown at 01:59:43. Be sure to review the Pinned Comment for important Time Stamps and other info, to familiarize yourself with the job. Good luck with your repair!
Hi L35. This tutorial is so amazing and I really watched it till the end. I am also fond of fixing and maintaining my own cars and in fact I have a 1999 Rav4 with a 3SFE engine and your tutotrial is so informative. I hope I will be able to influence my wife in car maintenance with your videos. Good job! :)
Cool! The Rav4 is a great vehicle for DIY maintenance, and the 3SFE is a good little engine. Thank you for your comment, and good luck! Stay tuned, as I have a radiator replacement video coming up soon hopefully.
@@L35inColorado Just this week, I noticed my coolant on the reservior dripped in the engine when I parked Rav (name of my car) and the coolant is boiling. I flushed the coolant and cleaned the hoses (rusty inside). Coolant still boils though. I replaced the radiator cap and noticed a leak so tried another cap with no leak. Engine temperature is normal, no more boiling coolant while Rav is idling in the garage for an hour. Hope it's just the radiator cap.
@@gdeluna8888 Nice catch, and yes -- hopefully its just the radiator cap! If you still have issues after swapping the caps, then I would bleed the system again, then try the new cap again (because trapped air bubbles can cause boiling, too). Good luck, and thanks for your comment!
At moment 14:57 ,I read about the impact wrench comment u put,and I can tell u from 16 years of self taught knowledge and experience,"I LEARNED IN MY 10TH YEAR THAT 95%OF ALL TIMING AND CRANK PULLEYS ,ALWAYS GONNA BE IMPACTED MY FRIEND,TRUST ME"!
Yes, I know -- and that's not the correct way to do. But I know that people do it that way. I don't, and I don't encourage anyone else to, either, especially on these lower-torque crank bolts. Thanks for watching!
Thank you, that's very kind -- Yes, it is a tight space indeed! Be sure to check out the Pinned Comment for Timestamps and important info, and good luck with your repair!
@@superdupersalem Haha, yes, it is very tight! Recording always slows me down a lot because of exactly what you're saying -- finding a place to put the cell phone, but still having room for tools and hands. Sometimes I use the cell phone screen instead of my eyes, and that's helpful for those very tight spots, especially when you're just trying to place a fastener blind. Good luck!
Heya just seen this video today, I have done a number of timing kits of these vehicles and found the best way to remove the engine mount bracket is to lower the engine as far as you can with the damper removed, take all the bolts out of the timing covers so they sit loose, then you can drop the mount out from below with utter ease. Reverse for re install
Great video to watch. Thorough and well explained video. I watched it eventhough I don't a have a RAV 4. Just in case if my future wife might have one and should she call my name. I'll know exactly what to do.:):)
That crank bolt is sooo much easier with an impact.. even if ya have to get one from harbor freight.. they pay for themselves. I actually keep the belt on until I’ve cracked the crank bolt loose. Edit: I also have the special thick walled Honda socket. It’s also a lifesaver.
Yes, for sure! I have two 1/2" drive air impacts now, and a bigger compressor than I did when I made this video. I know that a lot of people don't have air tools, though, so I always try to at show some other options (even if that option didn't work for me!). I now also have the Lisle #77080 19mm harmonic balancer socket, which was recommended to me by commentor, and I love that socket! Check it out if you work on Toyotas and Hondas a lot. Thanks for you comment, and for sharing your tips! : )
谢谢 (hopefully that means "thank you") I used Google translate on your comment, and it said this: "Very good car repair instruction video, it is very detailed and the demonstration is very clear. awesome" Thank you, and good luck on your Rav4 :)
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Timestamps are below, but first -- Important: I forgot to mention it 01:33:19, but REMEMBER TO RE-INSTALL the BELT GUIDE WASHER. You'll see the belt guide in place at 01:33:19, but I forgot to give verbal instructions to install it. It just slides on, same as how you removed it. Install the guide washer AFTER installing the belt, with the washer's cupped side facing OUT (guide washer is shown and explained at 46:40).
Use these Timestamps to quickly find what you are looking for:
03:00 Work Begins
03:30 Remove battery & tray
04:10 Remove Spark Plugs Wires and Spark Plugs
06:01 Remove Power Steering Reservoir
06:16 Remove Alternator
09:18 Remove Alternator Bracket
09:59 Drain Coolant
10:58 Remove Front Tire
11:12 Lift Points
12:53 Remove Power Steering Belt
14:18 Remove Harmonic Balancer Bolt
20:20 Remove Harmonic Balancer
23:35 Location of Crankshaft Position Sensor
23:45 Remove Engine Insulator and Engine Mount Bracket
35:47 Remove Top Timing Cover
37:25 Alignment of Timing Marks before Removal of Lower Timing Cover
42:27 Remove Lower Timing Cover
43:46 Remove Old Timing Belt
45:05 Remove Tensioner Pulley
46:01 Remove Idler Pulley
46:40 Explaining the Belt Guide Washer -- this washer goes OVER the belt (there is no belt in place when I explain the washer)
47:00 Remove Crankshaft Sprocket
47:39 Crankshaft Position Sensor
48:01 Remove Oil Pump Drive Housing
49:07 Remove Oil Pump Sprocket
49:38 Remove and Replace Oil Pump Seal & Gasket
53:23 Install Oil Pump Drive Housing
55:58 Remove Camshaft Sprocket
58:14 Remove Camshaft Seal
1:01:33 Install Camshaft Seal
1:05:21 Install Camshaft Sprocket
1:06:34 Remove Crankshaft Seal
1:08:31 Install Crankshaft Seal
1:10:30 Remove Water Pump (begins)
1:11:42 Remove Thermostat
1:16:17 Install Water Pump
1:21:14 Install Thermostat
1:21:53 Install Tensioner Pulley
1:23:42 Install Idler Pulley
1:24:05 Replace Timing Cover Gasket
1:24:40 Install New Timing Belt
***Important: I forgot to mention it, but you’ll see the guide washer installed at **1:33:19**. Make sure you install the guide washer AFTER installing the belt, but BEFORE installing the Lower Timing Cover ***
1:33:19 Install Lower Timing Cover - Remember to install Guide Washer first
1:33:42 Install Harmonic Balancer
1:33:50 Belt Tensioning Procedure (1 and 7/8 Turn Method)
1:34:35 Torque down Tensioner Pulley Bolt (at 45 BTDC)
1:34:54 Install Top Timing Cover and Engine Mount Bracket
1:37:58 Install Engine Insulator (Mount)
1:44:28 Install Harmonic Balancer Bolt
1:46:01 ABS Bracket Install
1:46:50 Reposition Power Steering Reservoir
1:46:57 Install Alternator Bracket
1:47:53 Install Alternator
1:49:24 Install Power Steering Belt
1:51:58 Install Alternator Belt
1:55:09 Install Fender Liner & Wheel
1:55:22 Install Spark Plugs and Wires
1:57:29 Install Battery Tray and Battery
1:58:25 Refill Coolant
2:01:14 Bleed Coolant
I hope this video was helpful for you. Thank you for watching, and good luck with your repair! Please post any tips or questions.
Darren. Excellent video. Where did you get the OBD READER on your phone from?
@@darrenthielker3546 Thank you -- the OBD reader I'm using here is this one, BAFX Products BAFX3127 for Bluetooth Diagnostic OBDII Reader/Scanner for Android Devices:
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005NLQAHS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
And the app is "Torque Pro" from the Google Play Store. There is a free version of Torque App (which is very good also), and there's the "Pro" (which is only $5). I like the Pro version because it has a few more features, but the free version is great, too.
How it works this this: you turn the key to the on position (or run the engine), plug in the OBD2 device, and then open the app on your phone, and it will connect to the OBD2 via Bluetooth. You then can monitor many sensors (varies by car), and reset CEL's.
It doesn't work for SRS or ABS codes, but for powertrain codes, it is great.
L35 in Colorado My timing belt was JUST REPLACED 5,000 miles ago. But the goof that did it did not replace water pump gaskets. Is it possible to remove only the upper timing cover and then loosen tensioner pulley and remove water pump as long as timing belt remains in place?
Are you open to questions? I'm wondering if needing a timing belt would cause my engine to not turn over. I had a new battery put into my car 3 days ago. I drove 3 miles to get home and my car just stopped a block from my destination. Someone told me it was probably the relay starter fuse, so I replaced that and my car still just sounds flooded when I try to start it.
@@sonyaethaniel I'm sorry that I missed this comment -- yes, it is possible that your timing belt broke, which would prevent it from starting, but since the problem occurred so soon after the battery was changed, I would consider looking at the battery terminals, and making sure that the terminals are snug and well-connected. If the battery installer forget to re-install the metal strap that holds the battery in place, it is possible that the battery shifted while driving and loosened the battery connections (I've seen this before). Again, I'm sorry that I missed this comment and am a month late!
This is by far the best repair video that I have come across on TH-cam she is very thorough and takes her time to explain every step, tool and hardware needed along with prices and where she purchase them. great job dear! definitely my go-to when needing directions on how to repair my Rav4
Thank you! Check out the Pinned Comment for important info and timestamps, and good luck with your Rav4 repair!
One of the best repair videos ever. What a great gal. She tried her very best to show everything she could and did. What a great job! spent all 2 hrs on this.
Thank you, that's very kind -- Be sure to check out the Pinned Comment for timestamps and other info. Good luck with your repair!
Did you especially like the part where she couldn’t see the 2 nuts on the flange at the back of the water pump so was having to see through the camera? Incredible!
Just finished a belt replacement only on my '00 rav4 awd. On a very tight budget and extremely tight time table. My belt was stripped of teeth in a spot 8" long so I had to find the marks on the crank and cam gears. I'm not uncertain without your video and step by step instructions I'd have come unswivled and worked on it with the largest hammer within reach or probably paid $700 to the local mechanic. It took me 5 hours and $33. Planning to go through it again in a couple of weeks and replace the seals, idler & tensioner and water pump. 200K miles and doubt anything else has been done. Thanks for your help and putting together the easiest how to video, ever! And to the 50 assclowns with thumbs down, smh, y'all really need to come out of the basement a little more often.
Wow, that's outstanding -- well done! Great job DIY!!
And that is remarkable that your old belt failed that way -- did you happen to see any marks on the old belt that would indicate the manufacturer? Did the new belt seem to be of noticeable better quality?
I'm so glad the video helped, and again, great job! Please post back with any tips when you're back in there later. Thanks for watching : )
Great job! I did this job on my old RAV4 ten years ago, but only drove it 1500 miles, so it sits a lot. I started it the other day and it died 5 seconds later. Cranked it and it sounded like there was no comp, then it had comp and fired, then went right back to no comp. What the heck? I pulled the top timing cover and there was red dirt packed in the timing gears. MUD DOBBER NEST! The mud packed in the gears was continually changing the cam timing. Thank the car gods it is a non inteference engine! The only thing I did different when I installed all of the parts was I put the crank pulley on without the covers and ran and leak checked it briefly. Lots of seals changed and the water pump. Plus, I wanted to make sure there wasn't any other weirdness from the dirt. All went great! Thanks for the great video!
I just want to say this is the most amazing walk through I have seen on TH-cam. I have been referencing it so much, thank you very very much for taking the time to add this, it is brilliant!!
Wow, I'm so glad the video is helpful! Thank you for your comment -- Merry Christmas, and good luck! : )
Thanks L35. You have the best car repair instruction videos ever. I've got this job coming up on my 1997 Rav4 and this will be a big help. (I replaced the clutch about a decade ago - took a lot of time and beer). Don't forget these videos will be a goto for years to come. The Rav4 model this vintage defies the passage of time.
Wow, that's great! This job is much easier than a clutch replacement, for sure! I agree, these Rav4's for just great vehicles. Good luck on the job!
@@L35inColorado It's a 2WD. I wouldn't have attempted the clutch job if it was 4WD. I made a DIY tranny jack out of wood and a standard floor jack. Once the transaxle was out I was surprised that it really isn't too heavy. I used my knees and arms to lift it into place to bolt it back on to the engine. Bought the Rav for $2K. It did need work, but money well spent. Thanks again.
This is the best DIY video I have ever seen; it's a template for what every other DIY video should be.
Thank you -- good luck with your repair!
THE ULTIMATE TIMING BELT REPLACEMENT VIDEO!! You are a champ. Just did both timing belts on my rav and it SUCKED. Learned a lot from this video. Had no idea that the crank gear had timing marks on it. Wasted so much checking, putting the cover off, belt on, cover off lol.
Thank you for the kind comment -- I'm glad you found the video useful! Those timing marks on the crank gear are so tiny that they are very easy to miss, lol
As a heavy duty mechanic for highway rigs and large diesel engines you have produced a great video that rivals the manufacturers. Good job. Very well explained. Keep up the good work
Thank you!
I have been watching youtube repair videos for years. This is by far the BEST, MOST DETAILED instructional I have seen. Very nice, thank you. I am now confident with these instructions I can do the job.
Thank you -- good luck! : )
The production value is exceptional on your videos. Terrific focusing, lighting, and very clear narrative. You make the most efficient videos of this kind that exist on TH-cam. Thank you for your time and effort in making these.
Wow, thank you! I appreciate that -- and thanks for watching! : )
I watched this video probably 15x while doing my first ever timing belt job (1989 camry, same engine). It took me nearly 2mos thanks to bad weather, a full time job, stuck bolts, and everything made of plastic breaking on me... but I fired it up for the first time and it was (and still is) good. pretty sweet for a first time novice amateur mechanic. Thank you very much for doing this.
CONGRATULATIONS!! That is outstanding! Well done -- great job sticking through all the surprises, and great job getting your Camry up & running! Thanks for watching and for sharing your story! : )
Finally, my 2000 Rav4 timming belt has been replaced. And it runs like new now. This is the best reality repair video on youtbe. Once again, Thank you so much.
Congratulations!! You are set for another 90K miles on your '00. I'm so glad that the video helped, and thank you for the kind comment :)
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Going to do this on my Rav pretty soon. Having to put oil in about every 250 miles because of that oil pump seal, so I’m going to go ahead and do all of this. I am confident I can do this because of your video. You’ve probably saved people hundreds of thousands of dollars in repairs. Thankful my Rav doesn’t have ABS for this repair so maybe it’ll be a bit easier! Please keep making gen1 rav4 videos!
Yeah, wow, that's a pretty good leak! When you get in there, you'll probably find that the seal is like uncooked spaghetti -- they dry out and break, and that's when the leak gets pretty bad, like you're seeing. I hope the video helps you with your repair! Be sure to read the Pinned Comment and the other comments for some extra notes and tips that others have added. Good luck!
Finally I figured out how to leave you a comment! Yeah! I am not computer literate. Thank you so much for your great video! I was given (yeah!) a 2000 Toyota Rav 4. It is close to needing a timing belt. It is so nice to know it is not an interference engine but I like to avoid getting stuck on the road. I live in the country and the next major city is an hour freeway drive away. Your video, as a woman also, is detailed enough I think I can change it. Years ago I changed the timing gear on my 1979 Chevy Malibu but those cars are so easy. No sensors, lots of room to work, totally different experience. That was a timing chain and the silicon end of the gear teeth they put on to make it quieter when it ran sheared off the gear and my belt came off. That wasn't an interference motor either. I can't thank you enough! This car is 6 years younger than the car I have been driving and it is still not totally computer controlled so I think I can work on it. That is because you do such a good job on your video explaining why things are done a certain way. I really like that about your video. I also want to do it right and your video shows how to do it right without getting too carried away. I like all the bolt call outs and the torque specs you give. I don't even have an owner's manual for this car. I just got the keys, nothing in the glove box so I really appreciate all the pictures and manual repair shots you give. Also, the tool call outs are great too. I love having something that will help me do something without brute force. I had to ask my husband to break the bolts loose when I did my brakes and he just hates (like anyone tremendously busy would) being interrupted since he has a full-time job plus a small hobby farm to fill up his time. I can't thank you enough for doing that wonderful video and making my life much easier. I like doing my own work but I'm no mechanic. I love your hand made tools too! I have plenty of PVC pipe around here. Thanks for putting more details up about things missed in the video also. That, I think that is First Class, being able to even add on little things after the video was posted. I really appreciate your thoroughness. I hope your 1996 Toyota Rav 4 is doing great but if you need to make more fixes on it, I'll be happy to view them for my 2000 Rav 4!
Thank you for the kind comments! I'm glad you find the video helpful, and that's very cool that you were given a '00, because these cars are really great cars. They aren't too difficult to work on, either. And yes, luckily for us women, most of the bolts for this job do not require a huge amount of strength: we might even have an advantage because we typically have smaller hands, and small hands for this job is a big advantage (since there is not much room).
The one exception for brute strength might be the crankshaft bolt: as shown in the video, the crankshaft bolt on this particular '98 was a BEAR to remove, but usually they aren't that bad on these engines. Hopefully yours will be easier to remove, but if not, just get a torch and an impact (as described in the video).
Good luck with your repair, and I hope you enjoy your new-to-you '00!
@@L35inColorado Hi, Thanks for replying to my comment. Yes, I agree that the crankshaft bolt is probably my biggest challenge. I have a little propane torch that I use to fix our plumbing so I hope that is good enough. At least there is nothing flammable near the crankcase bolt. I used it once to try and remove a break hose but it didn't work because I knew how much brake fluid expands with temperature and I was afraid to blow the line up. Plus I didn't want my brake line upstream to break. The connection was right at the wheel well where they always rust and I needed a new break hose because it was leaking. Took it to a real mechanic for that one. Sorry about getting your Rav 4 year wrong, '98 not '96. I'm still buying parts for the job. At least I'm looking forward to it since you did such a fantastic job. Go Rav 4s!
@@StoneKathryn Sure! The little propane torch should work, if you need it (it may just take a little longer to heat up the bolt and washer with a smaller torch). I think even a butane torch is better than nothing, but it just takes longer.
Here's something to consider: maybe start the job at the crankshaft bolt -- meaning, when you start the job, go straight to the crankshaft bolt right away, instead of later (as I did in the video). The reason I say this is because if you end up hitting a wall and need to "blip the starter" to remove the bolt, then at least you'll still have the battery and alternator connected, so you won't have to back-track.
Here is what I mean: when you're ready to start the job, remove the right front wheel and the plastic fender liner thing, and start right away on the crankshaft bolt before you do anything else.
If you have a high-torque impact wrench or can borrow one, I would try that the impact wrench first, while using a tool to hold the pulley in place. Use the torch if you need to. This method SHOULD get the bolt out -- you might have to heat it for a good while (minute) with the smaller torch. If it works, leave the loosened bolt in place, and then go back to the steps starting at the beginning of the video (ie, remove battery....)
If that doesn't work, or if you don't have an impact wrench, then try with a good long breaker bar and your pulley holder tool. Be sure to use a good 6-point impact socket and 1/2" drive tools (do not use a 12-point socket or 3/8" drive tools). Put a pipe on the end of the breaker bar to get even more leverage, if you can fit it.
If you strike out on the breaker bar method and don't have an impact wrench, then there is still another way -- you can "blip" the starter, as mentioned in the video.
Many people use the starter to loosen the crankshaft bolt: to do that, you do these steps (assuming you have the battery and alternator still in place):
1.) Disconnect all the spark plug wires -- you want the starter to spin the engine, but you do NOT want the engine to fire/start.
2.) Put a good 6-point socket on a 1/2" drive breaker bar on the crankshaft bolt, and use it to rotate the engine clockwise so that you can brace that breaker bar against the frame somewhere totally solid. The breaker bar must be against something that will prevent the breaker bar from turning clockwise with the engine. Also, the breaker bar needs to be against something very solid that won't be damaged by the breaker bar attempting to turn clockwise, and solid that will NOT budge when the engine turns the bar.
3.) Wire the breaker bar in place -- this is very important, you don't want this bar flying around if something goes wrong. Wire it very well.
4.) Blip the starter for a second using the ignition key: the starter will turn the flywheel, and then in turn the flywheel will turn the crankshaft. Since the 3SFE crank turns clockwise, the breaker bar will want to turn clockwise too, but the frame will prevent it from turning, so the breaker bar will oppose the rotation of the crankshaft bolt, and so the crankshaft bolt will get a counter-clockwise force and hopefully it will break free. Just flip the starter once for a second or two, then check the bolt -- hopefully it will be loose, but it not, blip it again.
Here is a good explanation & demo on a different Toyota -- the main difference will be since your '00 doesn't have a distributor, you'll just disconnect the spark plug wires or pull the fuel pump fuse (to prevent the engine from starting):
th-cam.com/video/kkeDnSeCEoE/w-d-xo.html
This method only works to remove the bolt -- you'll still need a tool to hold the pulley still when it comes time to replace and torque down the bolt later. You might consider starting here, and then you'll know that your biggest problem is solved first!
Good luck!
@@L35inColorado Thanks so much for telling me about the blip method because I don't have an impact wrench! Thanks for the video link! I think getting that done first thing will really help.
This conversation between you two is just beautiful. The best of humanity on display.
I cannot express in words how well made this video is. WOW! A bigger job than I needed, but I will for sure subscribe and look back here when I need to do more than replace my alternator!!
Wow, thanks for your comment, and thanks for subscribing! There are a few other Rav4 videos on the channel. I hope you find them helpful if you ever need them! : )
@@L35inColorado My 2dr Rav4 has stayed in the stable while several fun sports cars have come and gone.. it's small, dependable, and never really gave me a fuss. I believe the alternator bearings are going now.... I have a new woooshing, sucking, whirring sound.... certainly in pulley side of engine... will check it out and dig in asap. 187,000 miles of FUN! ARB springs, OME shocks/struts, Jeep wheels with Hankooks make this a mini monster truck. It's rusty, it's banged up, and its a blast.
Fantastic video with practical information. It's amazing how clearly you managed to capture everything. This allowed me to complete the job in 20 hours. Outside in the driveway. The water pump on my recently purchased RAV4 had seized up. It was the original one from 1998, never replaced...
I'm sorry I missed your comment - Oustanding, work on your Rav4 timing belt DIY! That is remarkable that the original water pump lasted so long, and good catch to save the day after it siezed. Nice job, and thanks for watching : )
Hi there. Thanks for your video it really helped me a lot. I did a few things different which I found way more easier.
1) engine mount to remove and install I lower the engine all the way down ,remove the harmonic pulley it came out clean.
2)engine insulator to remove and install I took the abs mounting bolt out bolt out plus the 2 bolts on the top outer bracket gave more room to remove that bolt under the ABS.
Outstanding work on your DIY, and thanks for sharing your tips! : )
This is absolutely one of the best repair videos I have ever seen, well done !
Thank you, good luck with your repair!
I was impressed with how well you handled the issue with the crankshaft bolt. That one would've cost me a LOT of swearing and at least 2-3 mellow-out beers to reset.
The diy tools are such a necessity with doing these kind of jobs. I mean has anyone else tried to track down one of the likely 6-12 or so specialty tools the factory manual calls out for with a job like this?
I watched the entire video and plan to knock mine out at the end of the month using this heavily as a template.
You are one hell of a mechanic 🔧⚙🔨🤙
Thank you!
Thanks for the comment! Haha, yes, the "SST" or "special service tools" are usually unobtainable or too expensive, so work-arounds are a must. Good luck with your job, and please post back with any tips!
I think you are the best car mechanic I have ever seen. Congratulations !!!
I'm sorry I missed your comment -- there's much better mechanics out there than me but they very busy and don't have time to record their work! : ) Thanks for watching!
This is a great video. Convinced me to hire it out to a pro. Just one job I don't want to handle myself. Very nice detail and explanation of the entire process. Very good job.
Hey, there's nothing wrong with that, and that's a very reasonable approach! Thanks for your comment, and thanks for watching : )
On my 1998 RAV4 I replaced Timing Belt, Water Pump, Front Seals, Oil Seals on a local Toyota service center , it costed me almost 2000 € , you are lucky to be able to do this by yourself
Oh wow, that's a wild price! The good news is that you won't need it done again for a long time. Thanks for watching! : )
I did this yesterday = You saved me lots of cash, with it I spent it in tools. I am in LOVE with your videos. THANK YOU ->> from Costa Rica!
Costa Rica, wow! I'm so glad to hear that the video helped -- thank you! Tools are great -- that's a great way to spend the money we save by DIY :)
Dear ms. Les, this is by far the best diy for timing belt replacement. I'm planning to buy a 2005 camry v6 (1MZ-FE) that still uses a timing belt. Yesterday I was watching the other guy's channel where he was replacing the timing belt as if he was in a race track. Then out of the blue youtube suggested this video. Most guys in Indonesia don't do diy repairs. They just take it to a toyota dealership n then complain how expensive the repair bills are. Well, I still need to replay the video a couple of times to build up confident. Thank's for the video
Wow, all the way from Indonesia -- that's cool! : ) Oh yes, that 1MZ-FE engine is a great engine: here in the US, you'll find them with over 250K miles and still running strong. There are lots of videos the MZ series engine -- Here's a great video of that timing belt job in a first-gen Sienna (1MZ-FE):
th-cam.com/video/WwUTWIZdETo/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for watching! : )
@@L35inColorado Ahh, thanks for the recommendation, Mr. Pen pusher, the gentleman with an european accent. I stumbled across his video a couple of times. I hope your channel grows exponentially in years to come. Although we don't own the same vehicle, I sure learned alot from your work ethics and professionalism.
@@alfanhadi4638 Thank you : )
I must say this is probably the most impressive TH-cam compilation I have experienced. Detail, calm and perfectionist. So well done my Lady, excellent.
Thank you, that's very kind! Good luck with your project!
This is best of the best timing belt replacement walkthrough!!! Specially those self made tools, very helpful! thanks a lot for all the details!
Thank you, I'm glad you found it helpful -- good luck with your repair!
I don't own a Rav but your videos a so professionally done I just had to watch...... In addition I must state you are one VERY patient human .... Again your videos set a standard that no one on youtube can compete with.... OUTSTANDING video !!!!!
Thank you, @carl suiter that's very kind! If you're interested, this here is the youtuber whose video inspired me to make this one -- his video was the most detailed DIY I had ever seen on youtube, and it helped me with my 1ZZFE engine rebuild a couple years ago:
th-cam.com/video/A595LR4SQpI/w-d-xo.html
I think that showing a lot of detail helps people to plan out their project, and removes some of the anxiety that comes with trying something new. I hope my videos help people who are new to DIY car repair to gain a little confidence, and to see that they can do it. :) Thanks again!
After a week and a half, I was able to complete the job almost following every step in this video. I decided to skip the cam shaft seal replacement after i could not unbolt its sproket. I had no signs on oil leaks there and had to heat the bolt on the crank pulley to unbolt it as well so it seemed to me that the dealership mechanic had tightened everything too tight. Thank you so much for posting. My daily driver for 21 years is a '99 rav4 with 346,000 miles and hopefully it has another 150,000 more miles left. Thank you again.
WOW!! 346K miles is amazing! Great job on completing the timing belt, too -- I'm so glad that the video helped :) Yes, those crank pulley bolts are sometimes re-installed with an impact wrench instead of a torque wrench, and when that is done, they are a real bear to remove (not much fun, either). Thank you for your comment, and I hope you make 500K miles on your '99!
This is truly the best instructional - repair video 👍🙂 on TH-cam.👍👍 Excellent professional step by step with superb camera angles/pop-up description with clear explanation of parts and tools needed to complete the job. I do have a recommendation for a tool that is a game changer and that is a Milwaukee High torque M-18 Fuel impact wrench wrench it's a beast and will remove any bolt. Best wishes for a prosperous future! God Bless and Thanks for taking the time to produce this fantastic video😊
Thank you, your comment is very kind! I hope the video is helpful for you. Yes -- that Milwaukee is a game changer -- I don't have one, but someone helped me at the junkyard once, and he had one, and it spun an axle nut off like nothing. Since I shot this video last year, I picked up a Kobalt 1/2" air impact, and that has been very useful. Maybe one day I'll get the Milwaukee. Good luck with your repair, and God bless, too :)
best step by step video i have ever seen. you also made me realize i need to take my car to a mechanic to get this done.
Haha! Hey, there's no problem in that, at least now you will know what your mechanic will be doing. Thanks for your comment! :)
@@L35inColorado yeah. I have coolant dripping off my oil pan. I just changed the oil and it’s dark, but just oil. So I think it’s the water pump. I was hoping it was the lower radiator hose, but nope. If it is the water pump, I might as well have them do the timing belt right?
@@fishsandwich610 Ah man, I'm sorry that's happening to you. It very well may be the water pump, or if the water pump was replaced previously as the aftermarket "face only" style, sometimes those gaskets leak over time because they are hard to install. It is easier to install the "complete" water pump style, like the one shown in the video.
About the timing belt: Yes, it usually makes sense to replace the timing belt when doing a water pump. It is also a good idea to replace the thermostat at that time, too. Your mechanic might also recommend some of the items in the video (seals and oil pump gasket, idler, tensioner pulley) if he sees any oil leaks or issues while in there, too.
If you decide to have the timing belt replaced as well, I recommend the kit shown in the video (Aisin), because it includes high-quality water pump, belt, and pulleys for under $100:
Aisin TKT-002:
www.amazon.com/Aisin-TKT-002-Engine-Timing-Water/dp/B008EEYVDQ/
Check the Pinned Comment for some other part numbers of seals, gaskets, etc that are often replaced during this job. Best of luck to you!
I gave up on my attempts for trying to get that timer cover back on for the day and decided to find a video to help. Great detail. I knew in my heart, the engine mount is going to need removed. Better luck tomorrow, if it don't rain.
Yes -- its a bit of a hassle, but that engine mount has to come out. As mentioned in the video, be sure to jack the engine up or down as needed to give yourself enough wiggle room to remove/install the cover. Once you have the cover out, leave the engine in the same spot (don't lift/lower it, if possible) and then replace the cover in the same way as you removed it. It is easy to lose a lot of time on that darn cover because it seems only to fit in one way! They can be more than a little frustrating. Thanks for your comment, and good luck!
I know this is a few years old now but I've just finished this job and this is the most comprehensive video I've ever watched on a repair. Every nut and bolt is covered. No guess work. The only difference was RHD so no battery to remove. Fortunately no ABS either. We had similar issues with the crank bolt, but heat and impact also worked. Thank you so much 😁
Wow, nice - thank for you adding your tips on for the RHD models! Yes, that crank bolt can be very tight, especially if the previous mechanic installed it with an impact wrench. Thanks for watching, and again for adding your tips, and Happy New Year! : )
@@L35inColorado happy new year to you too! Thanks again. Subscribed 😁
@@L35inColorado a couple of months on and I'm concerned it's making a bit of a noise. Does the tensioner ever need to be re-adjusted as the belt beds in? Can you whip the top timing cover off to do so?
This was the best tutorial I've ever seen. Bravo!
Thank you, that's very kind -- good luck with your repair!
Yes I'm working on 1997 Rav 4. Wish I seen your video before I got into it. Lol. Made a cam sprocket tool some what like yours. Haven't tried it yet. The suppression part of the motor mount I had problems with. The nut that is welded to the frame that the bolts go too broke away from frame. Couldn't get the mount off but it was loose enough to move around to get the new belt, tensioner and cam seal on. Now what do I do. I have a couple of ideas. Cut a hole in the wheel well big enough to get a wrench on the nut???
Another problem I cam across was that the previous repair person stripped the cam bot so it was a real bitch to get off. Luckily I made sure the six point socket rested flat on the bolt. I got lucky and got it off and ordered a new one. Not to try this tool you inspired me to make to torque down the cam bolt. I already had it running for a few seconds and it sounded grate. I took off the power steering mount to get better access. Every still is a bitch but in happy its finally moving forward. My wife bought the car cheap a year and a half ago because I told her I could get it running. She started talking her classes that lasted a year and half way through the doctor told us that her cancer came back and it was everywhere. She quit the classes and prepare for the worst. She lost her battle with cancer this past April 19 2019. So this has really important meaning to fix it real nice for a family that can use it because I spent a lot of money and time on it to make sure it was in A1 shape. It has 250,000 miles on it but it drives grate. Can't wait to get it on the road a get it to this women who has kids works real hard and wants to bug it. So there is a happy ending in some places. Thank you again and blessings to you and your family
On on Facebook as James bean. My profile has a skeleton face with a bandana on him. Friend mr please
@@jamesbean1374 I'm very sorry for the delay in responding -- youtube had your second comment marked as "spam" and did not post it or notify me.
Firstly, I'm so very sorry for wife's death -- I will pray for the repose of her soul and I send my condolences to you and your family.
Regarding the motor mount that threads into the chassis: yes, I have seen something similar before (the nut threads were stripped in my case), and so I had to drill up (from the bottom) and re-tap the nut. In your case, since the nut is missing, I would drill out enough access to get a nut in there: if it is the same nut as the one that stripped in my case, the hole lines up very well with a pre-existing hole that takes a small 10mm screw for the fender liner. Another option would be to install a "riv-nut" or rivet nut from the top. Here is an example of a rivnut:
th-cam.com/video/tV6RXQjHecc/w-d-xo.html
I love rivnuts and have used them many times -- they are great for when you can't get behind a surface. There are M12 rivnuts available (I'm not sure what that bolt is, but I think it is an M12: you can take it to Lowe's and fine out for sure). If you used a rivnut of the same size as that bolt, you could re-use the bolt.
As for the cam sprocket bolt -- oh, man, good catch! It is a huge mess when a cam bolt strips, so I'm glad you spotted it, used the correct tool, and replaced it! Well done!
Thanks again for your comments -- and I will pray for your whole family! God bless!
@@jamesbean1374 Thanks -- I don't have a Facebook or Twitter or anything like that (just youtube channel).
Returning to comment. My task to replace the timing belt and water pump on the Rav4 was completed and a success. With the help of this excellent video it made the job so much more easier. It was daunting for a first time, but it was far easier than expected thanks to you. I did check the timing marks too many times, but when I told my Mech friend, he said he does too as one blip and the engine is toast. Need to be be methodical and check like you and easier. Top Girl and thank you!
Thank you so much for this comment -- comments like this makes all the time it takes to make these videos worth it! I'm so glad that the video helped, and major congratulations to you on completing your first timing belt job! Well done!! : ) She's good for many, many years to come!
tony.775 i thought its a non interference engine which means if timing belt breaks, the valves wont hit pistons whereby destroying the engine.
Great video! Wish this was posted 2 months ago when I went through the same headache haha. Not a horrible job just time consuming. Thanks for the vid!
Thanks, I'm glad you liked it! And yes -- it is a time consuming job but we sure saved a lot of $$ doing it ourselves, didn't we? Take care!
Holy crap man, this video is phenomenal. I always struggle trying to find in-depth videos on my Rav, but this is something else.
Thank you.
Thank you - and thanks for watching! : )
Thanks so much for putting this video together. You cover most everything I needed to do my timing belt overhaul. Only thing missed on my end is I needed to replace the entire oil pump assembly which required additional steps. No problem though. The maddening rattle coming from the oil pump is now gone and I can confidently sell this to a new owner. Take care L35 in Colorado.
Outstanding! Well done on your DIY, and thanks for watching! : )
Thanks so much for your step by step video, couldn't have done the job without you! We actually drove the Rav4 yesterday. Thought we would never get it back together.
We were able to get the power steering belt on and off just by loosening the bottom bolt only, didn't have to get the top tough one. We got the kit that just had the front water pump, of course we stripped the phillips screw, that goodness we looked better in the box, it came with a spare screw. When putting the belt on, the belt was always too loose, feeling the loose belt also caused the crankshaft and camshaft to lose it's mark, finally got someone to hold the belt from the water pump to the camshaft and hold the belt, making sure with the mirror that it was on the teeth, the belt I noticed wants to skip when your trying to put it on the tensioner pulley. We lost our marks on everything, so putting the belt on was harder.
Wow, great job on your DIY and working through those challenges! I'm glad that everything is back together -- thanks for your comment and for sharing your tips! : )
Thanks AGAIN for a great tutorial on this repair. I was unlucky and had to do this repair again when my new water pump failed after about 7K miles. One thing I did different was to remove the long stud with a stud remover tool from the engine mount which attaches to the block and that made removing the mount much easier - relatively speaking :) It's all good now, thank you for your excellent video :)
I'm sorry I missed your comment -- that's a great tip about removing the stud! Thanks for sharing and well done on completing the job yourself : )
HI MY first Toyota timing belt great video thank. L35 when you are loading your tensioner pulley put your old timing belt around it letting it hang out the bottom put your foot in it easy to pull down all the way. Thank you
Thanks for adding your tips, and thanks for watching! : )
Thank you for this step-by-step video. It has proven to be very helpful to me. I named my RAV4 'Exxon Valdez' because it was leaking so much oil. This is a miserable little job due to the access restrictions. Thankfully, my RAV4 does not have ABS, so I had 'luxurious' amounts of space to work.
Haha, well I hope the Exxon Valdez is no longer leaking! I'm so glad the video helped : ) Thanks for your comment.
I just got to say this video series you made has really helped me out. I can’t thank you enough. Subbed for sure.
Thank you for watching, and thanks for subscribing! I'm so glad the videos helped : )
Awesome DIY.
I got so lucky as to fix my first timing belt in a parking lot while passing thru a town. Didn't get done till 2am.
Interesting thing I found. If you are sitting in the wheel well area. There is a grommet you can remove and it gives you perfect line of sight to the timing marks on the cam.
As I didn't have a spot mirror this discovery was invaluable and somewhat a major secret that I have stumbled across.
Thank you for being so descriptive and including part numbers. As im on my 2nd rav4 it needs some help in the water pump department and I'll be replacing lots of seals thanks to your video.
Oh gosh, I'm sorry you had to do this repair in a parking lot -- that's pretty tough! But that's great that you got it done, for sure. Thank you for the tip regarding the grommet in the wheel well area -- I will certainly check that out. Thanks for your comment, and good luck with the rest of your repairs!
A small update.
I finally got the time, not the help though, to get in and tackle replacing the water pump. The tip you show about the timing marks on the crank gear itself proved to be incredibly self saving. Whilst stretching the new timing belt I accidentally pulled too hard and rolled the crank a few teeth. Once everything I thought was realigned and ready to roll it turned out I was still off by 1 tooth.
Long story short, I fired up the car and it purrs like a kitten. Not a drip or leak anywhere.
I'll be sending others your way to get help with DIY Toyota issues. Thanks
Best Tutorial Video!!! Saved me $1200 dollars 10/10
Wow, great job on doing the job yourself and saving $$$ ! Thanks for watching, and I'm so glad the video helped : )
Thank you for the great video! The step by step instructions helped be replace the water pump housing, thermostat and belt. I just finished the job. I couldn't have done it without your help!
Hey, nice! Congrats, and thanks for watching -- enjoy your Rav4!
So I made a rookie mistake and didn't mark my timing marks with a good enough marker (I used a Sharpie). They got rubbed/cleaned off - your video saved me so I knew where the factory timing marks are!! Thanks so much!!
Cool -- I'm so glad it helped!
It's really somewhat enjoying when working on this rav4 , today i changed the location of my rav4 vsv which is hidden behind the engine and successfully fitted it within my reach behind the intake manifold 😊
Yes, that VSV is in a strange location for access, especially on the 4WD! I am editing a Rav4 EGR video which will show the throttle body removal, EGR valve and tube removal, and IAC removal, as well as the location of the VSV. I hope to have that up within the next couple of weeks. Thanks for posting, and have fun with your Rav4!
@@L35inColorado yeah that repair with p0401 code has annoyed me from a long time and my rav4 never ends this code , will be waiting to see this repair 😁
I did the same on the vsv
This is one of the most illustrative videos I have ever watched to understand car parts replacement. Thank you.
Fantastic walkthrough. I started this job last fall, but failed to remove the crankshaft pulley bolt before the bitter cold of winter drove me indoors.
This will be extremely helpful. Thank you.
Very helpful that you mentioned all the tools and tool setups you used.
I'm glad the video will be useful for you! Yes, that crankshaft bolt can be a little tricky if you don't have a pulley holder or some kind. If you can't make a special tool like I did, then I would try a chain wrench to hold the pulley, while you turn the bolt with a long breaker bar.
As I mention in the video, I had to use a torch and an impact wrench...but it is NOT usually that difficult to break these free as long as you have a way to hold the pulley.
Good luck with your project when you re-start the job! Be sure to read the Pinned Comment above, because I have some notes there that are important, and also have all the timestamps so you can pick up where you need to. Take care!
you are my guru and accept me as your student....what a smart lady keep goin....
Haha - we're all students, so be sure to share you tips, too! Thanks for watching : )
Harley mechanic by trade. Wanted to see what I was in for on a side job so watched some of the video. Very impressed by the video. Great job
Thanks! : )
My Goddess but you are the best mechanic ever. Please do more on the rav4. You would make Jessie Combs proud. 👍👌🙏
What an outstanding video! Very thorough and conscientious and helpful. You have tremendous patience! Thanks for posting, I'll be doing this job tomorrow💫
Thank you, and thanks for watching - good luck! : )
I performed the repair on a customers car on friday. I think what helped me the most was that hidden little timing notch on the crankshaft gear- Thanks for identifying that, very helpful. It all turned out great- thanks!
I really appreciate the video. I’m a pretty capable mechanic fixer or most things but the video gave me a little more confidence on completing the job. Excellent job. I thought by the video you have replaced many. Toyota service tech. thank you I have now fixed the broken timing belt on my rav4.
Outstanding! That's great - nice job on your timing belt DIY! Thanks for your comment, and thanks for watching : )
Okay. I’ve now watched this video nearly twice. I’ve subscribed so I can find it easier next time! Funny how I’ve watched vids covering this job in Toyota passenger cars…they make it look easy. Not so fast, compadre! My ‘97 has been in the family since it was new. With only 72K on it I figure maybe I should give this a go. Well, maybe not. Your vid is a little over 2 hours. It shouldn’t take me over 2 weeks if I rustle up the parts ahead of time. :-))) I’ve read your update notes and will keep my laptop running as I go. Thank you very much for this super-fine work you’ve done!
Thanks for subscribing! Wow, just 72K miles on a '97?? That is remarkable - nice job keeping your first-gen Rav4 on the road!
Thanks for watching, and good luck! : )
@@L35inColorado My sister was going to trade it in…for nothing…I offered about $1000 more because it only had 54,000 then! We actually drove from home in Arizona to our son’s in Monument, CO, just once, when we decided it was a “close to home” car. Certainly worth every penny I spend on her!
Best detailed video yet bare none. Muchas gracias. Already have done on 1999 Toyota rav4. Dayco timing kit with aisin water pump. Great reliable engine the plus is non interference. Has 240,000 miles >I need to repla e the valve cover gasket due to oil leak. Watched it all . I've done 4 so far 1995 honda odyssey, 2006 subie sti, 1998 honda prelude and the rav nice lisle tool
Thank you so much for this. I followed along with every step while I did it myself.
First water pump/ timing belt I've ever done and seems to be a success. You're an absolute legend!
Wow, that is outstanding! Superb job on your DIY - what a great way to start the year! Thanks for watching, and thanks for sharing your story! : )
I hate incompetence. And I mean fuuuukin HATE it. Seeing your trouble with the crank bolt scared me. Luckily God was giving on mine - regular Milwaukee M18 and it came out. Your ingenuity... props.
Oh yeah, it drives me crazy when crank bolts are over-torqued! I'm glad you didn't have any trouble - I've heard lots of good things about the Milwaukee M18 line. Thanks for watching and good luck! : )
@@L35inColorado I'm gonna go ahead and do this update now so I don't forget it. As a suggestion, take off the bolts for the top timing cover, then the bolts for the lower. Remove the lower cover, then the motor mount bracket will kind of tumble in a way down through where the cover would have been in the way before. Then you can remove the top cover. It's a lot easier that way. More updates to come if I find any suggestions. Other than that thank you again!
This is the best video ever! Great camera work, all torques and specs from the FSM, every step clear, with tips for the difficult parts and some DIY tools to save more cash. Without this I would not be attempting this job and the mechanic shops would have reamed me once again. Thank you so much L35!
Just one tiny thing: at hour 1:00 and 1:05, when you use PVC pipe as a seal installer, you mention a coupling might possibly work instead of cutting a piece of PVC. Actually a coupling will have a wider diameter than the pipe, since it is made to go over two pieces of pipe to connect them. So you gotta
get the pipe as you did. [Edit] This is very minor and I only mention it because I happen to work at Home Depot lol.
Great job!
Thank you -- I hope the video helps!! Great point about the PCV coupling size: yes, it will be a bit bigger, so perhaps it wouldn't work (I haven't tried it because I just use what you say in the video). Be sure to check the Pinned Comment for some important info and timestamps. Good luck on the project, and thanks again! : )
@@L35inColorado Thank you for the reply! Quick question if I may: to loosen the crankshaft bolt, my Haynes mentions putting a prybar in the flywheel to block it from turning. Any thoughts on that method?
@@aaxen7255 It is possible to do that, as sometimes people do that when bolting the flywheel on itself. There is not a whole lot of access to the flywheel on the Rav4 because of the position of the transaxle. If you do try that, you must be absolutely certain that you won't accidentally damage the flywheel, especially if using something like a prybar.
Personally, I wouldn't do that for removing the crankbolt because I have my little pulley holder tool (and now I have much better impacts than I did when I shot this video). Personally, I would try an impact (any impact) and a torch before I touched the flywheel because a damaged flywheel would be a huge pain in the neck.
In a pinch without an impact, you can put a breaker bar on the bolt, secure the bar clockwise, remove the fuel pump fuse/relay and/or disconnect the spark plug wires and blip the starter. Here is an explanation of the process -- if you do this, be certain to use a strong 6-point socket and a 1/2" drive (or 3/4" drive) breaker bar, because this method can easily break a 3/8" breaker bar:
www.rav4world.com/threads/how-to-break-the-crankshaft-bolt-loose-first-time-evertime.273369/
Good luck!
@@L35inColorado Thank you for the reply and all the info! It does seem like your tool is the best solution. I saw other DIY tools people posted online and it seems like the best design too. Did you use a carbide bit to drill the holes in the metal bar?
This video is amazing! Easily the best self help videos I have seen! Highly recommend.
I thumbed up even though I don't have a Rav4!!! Everything looks easy until all the bolts are put back 🙂 What a great job you did! I would need some serious moral support to do a DIY job like this! The good news is that now I know how to change the alternator.
Haha, nice! Every job is one bolt at a time : ) Thanks for watching!
What an awesome step-by step - thank you very much. Yeah, I had the same issue with the crankshaft bolt on my daughters 99 RAV4, but heat, a couple of taps with a hammer and an impact gun finally did it after almost 5 hours of trying everything else. HOWEVER, I'm now stuck trying to remove the camshaft bolt....that SOB refuses to budge and access is so limited. I might just have to leave that seal alone. Once again, thanks for an excellent video.
I'm glad you liked the video -- I'm sorry I missed your comment for several days. I hope you got that camshaft bolt off: its so tight in there that its difficult to get a good angle on that bolt to get the leverage needed to break it free. Worse case scenario, you can remove the valve cover, and there's a spot on the camshaft for a crescent wrench to hold the camshaft, if you can't get a tool to hold the pulley.
Thanks for your comment, and good luck!
Because of this video, it’s your fault that I attempted this project. I’m kidding! I’m an idiot and I was going to do it without the video. You never mentioned gaskets on either timing cover. Mine had what looked like badly deteriorated gray RTV. Necessary to replace it? And, remember the parts where you said, “Don’t drop it!”? My timing gear was permanently affixed to the crankshaft. Toyota tells us to remove it by hand. Nope. If that doesn’t work they say to pry it off with two screwdrivers. Nope, after spraying rust cutter on it and letting it sit. They never mentioned using a slide-hammer, but I have one. Several whacks later and that timing gear flew off the shaft! No, I didn’t catch it. Fortunately, Amazon had one in stock. Again, thank you for these videos!
The timing cover gaskets are mentioned at 01:24:05 and the Toyota part numbers are shown - as mentioned in the video, I use a certain craft store foam to replace them when they are damaged/missing because the Toyota parts are too expensive! But you can either replace with the Toyota parts or use something else (a high temp tolerant foam). If the old gasket is missing/broken, it is a good idea to replace it. I would not use RTV because it is not necessary for the gasket to seal water- or oil-tight like you'd need on a timing chain case cover - these timing covers are just to reduce dust contamination and protect the belt and pulleys in case something falls in there.
And yes, those crank sprockets can be tough sometimes! Often they just pull off, but sometimes - like in your case - they are big trouble! I'm glad you got it sorted out : )
Thanks for sharing your tips, and thanks for watching. Good luck!
@@L35inColorado Dang! I looked but did not see! Thank you!
@@L35inColorado Remember I said I’m an idiot? I just realized that you’ve provided time hacks for most every step of this procedure. I wonder if anybody had enough time on there hands to “thumb thru” the entire video looking for something. Certainly not me!
@@L35inColorado Happy Easter! Finished this project today. Only glitch was the crankshaft timing gear. Tools I made using your “specs” were money savers. Yes, “hardest part of this job is access”…quite the understatement! If I do this again (hahaha) I’m pulling the engine! :-))) Thanks for all your help!
@@barotraumabruce4245 Happy Easter to you, too! That's great - nice job on your DIY...now you get some time for your knuckles to heal from having to reach into all those super tight spaces! : )
Thank you L35 for making this video! I watched every minute, sometimes several times, as I worked through this job. You covered every detail, and I appreciated having the torque values as well. My car runs like new! I also referred to a similar video by Lab Coat Paul which is very concise, but sometimes I needed the extra detailed footage you provide. You also showed me how to do an oil change on my RAV4 in one of your other videos. I will be trying that next.
Wow, I'm glad the video helped! Yes, Lab Coat Paul has great Rav4 videos too -- I'm just a lot slower than him! Haha Congrats on your timing belt DIY -- that is a huge accomplishment and so an oil change will be a piece of cake compared to the timing belt job! Thanks for watching : )
Very helpful video.
When I was breaking my crank pulley bolt, I used the socket & T bar method that you mentioned cranking the engine slightly !
Great job DIY'ing! Thanks for watching : )
That seal puller tool is a life saver!
One of the BEST TH-cam Video EVER.
THANK YOU
THANK YOU
THANK YOU... & THANK YOU for your KNOWLEDGE.
Touch of Perfection 💞
Thank you -- I hope it helps! Happy New Year and good luck with your repair : )
Great video, i rarely comment on videos but this was a great guide! Thanks 👍🏼
Thanks for your comment -- good luck! : )
What an amazing video and SUPER clear. If anyone with a little knowledge attempts this using your video they should have no problems whatsoever. Best step by step I've seen in a long time! Thank you for this! I just bought a Rav4 that needs a water pump job and this is just what I needed. (BTW - nice Chris Fix reference @ 1:18:47. :) )
Chris Fix, yep! Thanks for kind words, and I hope you like your new Rav4! Be sure to read through the pinned comment with the timestamps for extra info. Good luck with your repair!
Haha! I've also started calling it "soapy wooder."
Best video i found in the internet. Very nice.
Thanks for your comment -- I hope the video helps, because that is my goal in making videos! : ) Good luck!
Thank you very much for taking the time to make the video, super helpful!! Very detail oriented for sure.
Thanks -- I'm glad you found it helpful. Good luck with your repair!
From Christchurch New Zealand Aoteoroah Compliments on this exceptional presentation. Kia Ora
Wow, New Zealand -- no way! That's so cool -- thanks for watching, and good luck!
Unbelievable detail. I was ready to do mine and I learned a lot that will save me a bunch of time. THANK YOU.
You can do it! Be sure to check the Pinned Comment for important info. Thanks for your comment, and Good luck!
@@L35inColorado again thanks for the detail. I got it done‼️‼️ only saving grace was bagging all the hardware labeling.. air ratchet also help.
@@ricks7934 Great job, and well done! : ) Thanks for the update!
Best repair video ever! Wow! Speechless!
That's very kind -- I hope the video helps! Thanks : )
thanks for making this it's awesome to check in that i'm not making any big mistakes as i change my own timing belt. appreciate the work.
Good luck, you can do it! Thanks for your comment : )
Your video is state of the art. You were paying attention in college. Absolutely amazing content. After watching this, I am in awe of all the viewers here at this site who can attempt this job themselves with your help. I wish I had the brain power and technical know how to complete this, but I do not. I stick to the easier bits. To you and all your viewers, does the timing belt kit absolutely NEED to be replaced at 60,000 miles, or does it have lead way to 90,000? I live here in Colorado too, in the Boulder area. I have a 2000 RAV 4 with 155,000. Last timing belt job was done at 90,000 in California by Toyota. Do not know how thorough dealer mechanics are compared to you. I am looking for an independent Toyota shop in the area that does as great a job as you do, and can prove it. If you or any of your viewers know of any humans who possess this high quality of work ethic, please let me know in comment. Finding experts in the field is like finding a needle in a haystack !! Thank you for your wonderful video.
Wow, thanks, I appreciate your comment! For the '98 - '00 Rav4's, Toyota increased the service interval for the timing belt to 90K miles (the previous spec was the 60K miles you mentioned for the '96 - '97 models), or 7 years, which ever comes first. I have replaced belts on Rav4s that where older than 7 years with fewer than 90K miles, and the belts still looked good (though they were quality belts in the first place, such as Toyota OE, Gates, or Mitsuboshi). The good news if that if you previously had the belt replaced at a dealership, then you would have a quality belt (Toyota OE) unless there was something super shady going on at the dealership.
The pulleys (idler and tensioner pulleys) do sometimes start to show bearing wear before the belts show much wear, though, which is why the pulleys are typically replaced 'while you're in there'. The water pump, too, will sometimes start to weep (you'd likely notice a coolant leak) or have bearing wear, which is why the water pump is also replaced as part of the job. Cam and crank seals are also often replaced. The thing is that our Rav4s are all now over 20 years old, and oil seals (even the best seals) just don't last forever, so if those seals haven't been replaced before, then it is a good idea to also do that "while you're in there". All these items drive the price of the job up, though I think it is generally worthwhile to replace them (unless they have already been replaced).
For these first generation Rav4's, it seems like the oil pump gasket (the "animal cookie gasket") is often the first thing to go which requires getting in there since it causes an oil leak, as shown in the video. Since you have to remove the belt to get to that part, shops will obviously recommend a full job if they see that leak. And I always recommend to have that gasket replaced whenever doing a timing belt job because that gasket is certain to leak at some point (they dry up and turn brittle).
I agree with your sentiment about finding honest shops: it is harder and harder these days, which is just too bad. Independent ("indy") Toyota shops tend, in my experience, to be a little better than most "general" shops and less expensive, higher quality work than the dealership (and a good indy shop will offer a 2 year warranty while the dealership is only 12 months).
For the full job as shown in the video (timing belt, pulleys, spring, cam seal, crank seal, oil pump gasket and shaft seal, water pump, thermostat, drive belts, etc), I would expect estimates in the $1000 - $1200 range. They will charge more if you have ABS because it's harder to remove the engine mount if you have ABS.
A good shop should be able to email you a detailed estimate with all the part numbers, prices, and labor, shop fees, coolant, etc, so that you can see everything they will replace for the price they quote, and they ought not to give you any trouble if you ask for all the used parts back (sometimes people do this to confirm that they parts were replaced, since unfortunately sometimes shops aren't honest).
I know it can be hard to justify this high expensive on an older vehicle, but the Rav4 has proven to be a very reliable vehicle, and once this job is done, they can continue to run well for many more miles.
I hope this helps! Thanks again for your comment, and thanks for watching : )
@@L35inColorado Thank you so much for the reply L35. That is great news that I can run to 90,000, and that the dealership used quality parts. Now I can concentrate on the easy bits. I'm glad I watched your video. Noticed near the end when the engine was idling what it actually sounds like. Does have a touch of clatter compared to a Honda 2.3 liter 4 cylinder, which is super quiet at idle. At first I thought it had bad valves, because I had never heard this engine operate. But all is well. Mine sounds exactly as yours does at idle. Truly appreciate your input for my questions. GOD Bless you.
@@hardlyworkin3603 All Glory to God! : )
Thank you for this! I have to do all this soon and you've reduced my anxiety about it immensely.
You'll do great! Be sure to read the Pinned Comment for important information and timestamps. Also, there is a comment below from @Connor Stockman who offers an extra tip on removing/installing the engine mount more efficiently -- check it out, and maybe try it.
Good luck with your repair!
@@L35inColorado Job done. Took 2 days. This video was consulted constantly all weekend. Thank you once more for your patience and dedication to quality and comprehensiveness.
@@superdupersalem Congratulations, and well done! I'm so glad I could help!
@@L35inColorado bad news. Oil leak not gone. I was so sure it was the oil pump gasket. Oh well. In we go again.
@@superdupersalem Ah man, I'm sorry to hear that, but at least you eliminated that job and are set for a long time (on timing belt).
If you're getting an oil leak in that area, check the oil pan gasket: it is rare that they leak, because is it a form-in-place gasket, but it can leak over time.
Also, there is a power steering fluid leak which can look like an oil leak, because the original Toyota power steering fluid is actually undyed ATF (so its dark brown, like oil). The most common PS leak that looks like a pan gasket or oil pump housing leak is a PS leak that starts at the larger hose on the PS reservoir. It will drip down the hose, then collect on the oil pan's lip, behind the crank pulley. The best way to pin down ATF is to smell it -- it stinks and doesn't smell like engine oil (even though undyed ATF looks like engine oil). Also, you can watch the level in the PS reservoir to see if you're loosing any fluid. You can smell the ATF in the power steering reservoir and use it as a "smell" guide, to compare it to engine oil. Good luck, and thanks for posting back!
yes one of the best DIY videos i've seen. if it's not too much trouble, could you please publish a list of all the tools you bought to complete the job. i'm about to replace my water pump on my 1998 RAV4, this video is a great help. i sincerely appreciate you sharing your time and knowledge. well done you and thank you.
Thank you, I hope the video helps when you do the job! To answer your question, I already had all of my tools, because I have done this job before and work on cars a bit. I think I show all the tools and set-ups in the video as I'm pulling the parts, but I'll try to list some by memory below.
The only "special" tools are the ones I made to hold the crankshaft pulley and the camshaft sprocket -- but there are work-arounds for these, too, as I mention in the video.
If I had to buy all the tools from scratch, but just the minimum for this job, then I would probably buy these following tools (which I already have, and did use -- I love Harbor Freight Tools because they have great prices and usually good enough quality, and you can usually use a 20% off coupon on your phone and get them for even cheaper):
- 1/2-in drive breaker (needed for the crank bolt, lug nuts, and engine insulator bolts):
www.harborfreight.com/12-in-drive-25-in-breaker-bar-67933.html
- 1/2-in drive six point shallow impact socket set, includes a 19-mm for the crank bolt and a 21-mm for the lug nuts:
www.harborfreight.com/13-pc-12-in-drive-metric-impact-socket-set-64387.html
-1/2-in drive ratchet (any good one with a 12" handle or longer), this is nice because its low-profile:
www.harborfreight.com/12-in-drive-professional-low-profile-ratchet-62330.html
- 1/2-in drive extension set (needed to reach the engine insulator nuts and bolts):
www.harborfreight.com/4-pc-12-in-drive-impact-socket-extension-set-67972.html
- 1/2-in drive 14-mm six-point deep socket for the engine insulator nuts (buy a single socket, or a deep socket metric set from HF):
single: www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-Metric-1-2-in-Drive-Deep-6-point-14mm-Impact-Socket/3388854
set: www.harborfreight.com/13-pc-12-in-drive-sae-impact-deep-socket-set-69560.html
- this HF pass-through ratchet and 6-point socket set (used for engine bracket bolts, power steering bolt, ABS bolt, camshaft bolt):
www.harborfreight.com/21-pc-sae-metric-go-thru-socket-set-62305.html
- this little 10mm wrench (hard-to-reach bolts on water pump bypass tube and thermostat housing):
www.lowes.com/pd/CRAFTSMAN-10mm-12-Point-Metric-Standard-Combination-Wrench/1000595995
(that particular wrench is not needed -- any small 10-mm wrench will work, but it has to be small to fit)
This is a great kit, too:
www.harborfreight.com/5-piece-metric-s-type-wrench-set-99699.html
- torque wrenches (I'd use three -- 1/4" drive, 3/8" drive and 1/2" drive torque wrenches because of the torque ranges for this job): you can get these for $10 each at harbor freight with a coupon (google "harbor freight torque wrench coupon")
www.harborfreight.com/14-in-drive-click-type-torque-wrench-63881.html
www.harborfreight.com/38-in-drive-click-type-torque-wrench-63880.html
www.harborfreight.com/12-in-drive-click-type-torque-wrench-63882.html
*For this particular job, you technically only need the 1/4" and 3/8" drive torque wrenches above, because the maximum torque is 80 ft-lbs (crank bolt), and that HF 3/8" drive goes up to 80 ft-lbs. But I'm not strong enough to use a 3/8" drive for that much torque -- I need a longer torque wrench, so that's why I would used a 1/2" torque wrench for the crank bolt and lug nuts.
- spark plug socket (it is not necessary to remove the spark plugs for this job, but I do it because it makes it much easier to turn the engine by hand):
www.harborfreight.com/38-in-drive-58-in-sparkplug-socket-67792.html
- universal-joint socket adapter set (for the rear insulator bolt):
www.harborfreight.com/3-pc-universal-joint-socket-adapter-set-63141.html
- socket adapter set (so you can use different sockets on different drive ratchets):
www.harborfreight.com/4-pc-high-visibility-socket-adapter-set-62851.html
- PB Blaster is helpful too, especially if you encounter rust:
www.walmart.com/ip/The-Original-PB-B-laster-Penetrant/16816083
I might be forgetting some. I'm blessed to have a lot of tools, so I have a good selection at my disposal. I didn't list a 3/8-in drive metric socket set and ratchet, only because off the top of my head, I *think* I could get all the bolts with either the 1/2-in ratchet for the pass-through HF ratchet shown above. But in reality, I use 3/8-in drive ratchets and sockets all the time, and did on this job for many of the bolts (you can see in the video -- the black ratchet is my 1/2" and the chrome is my 3/8"). I really like this one in particular, and this is my most commonly used ratchet and socket set-up
www.harborfreight.com/38-in-drive-professional-flex-head-ratchet-62321.html
www.harborfreight.com/8-piece-38-in-drive-metric-impact-socket-set-67870.html
(But I don't think you'll be able to get all the bolts with a 3/8" drive because some are very tight, so that's why I just stepped up to 1/2" in the list above)
I also really like the Lisle seal puller, 58430. If you aren't doing your seals, don't get it, but if you are, it really is a time and frustration saver:
www.amazon.com/Lisle-58430-Shaft-Type-Puller/dp/B000FPYW4K/ref=asc_df_B000FPYW4K/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312065537890&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=17584144626055090768&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1014602&hvtargid=aud-801381245258:pla-633100651832&psc=1
The Lisle No-Spill coolant funnel isn't required, either, but if you start doing your own coolant system work, it is great thing to have:
www.amazon.com/Lisle-24680-Spill-Free-Funnel/dp/B00A6AS6LY
Here is now to bleed with a regular $1 funnel:
th-cam.com/video/nThsFGa1vuE/w-d-xo.html
All the part numbers for replacement parts are show in the video at the beginning (first 3 minutes). The coolant part # is shown at 01:59:43.
Be sure to review the Pinned Comment for important Time Stamps and other info, to familiarize yourself with the job. Good luck with your repair!
Amazing job lady well done tons of info well spoken commentary!!!
Thank you, that's very kind -- Be sure to read the pinned comment for extra info and timestamps. Good luck with your repair :)
Hi L35. This tutorial is so amazing and I really watched it till the end. I am also fond of fixing and maintaining my own cars and in fact I have a 1999 Rav4 with a 3SFE engine and your tutotrial is so informative. I hope I will be able to influence my wife in car maintenance with your videos. Good job! :)
Cool! The Rav4 is a great vehicle for DIY maintenance, and the 3SFE is a good little engine. Thank you for your comment, and good luck! Stay tuned, as I have a radiator replacement video coming up soon hopefully.
@@L35inColorado Just this week, I noticed my coolant on the reservior dripped in the engine when I parked Rav (name of my car) and the coolant is boiling. I flushed the coolant and cleaned the hoses (rusty inside). Coolant still boils though. I replaced the radiator cap and noticed a leak so tried another cap with no leak. Engine temperature is normal, no more boiling coolant while Rav is idling in the garage for an hour. Hope it's just the radiator cap.
@@gdeluna8888 Nice catch, and yes -- hopefully its just the radiator cap! If you still have issues after swapping the caps, then I would bleed the system again, then try the new cap again (because trapped air bubbles can cause boiling, too).
Good luck, and thanks for your comment!
Very helpful. It is a long run-time, but the detail is greatly appreciated. I wish the audio was a bit louder, needed to hook up a bluetooth speaker.
You are the next Spielberg. you should make some action movies. you did a wonderful job
nobody could do better!
Hey just wanted to say thank you for your video , everything went perfect and the weird rattle is gone too lol...again thank you!!!!
Well done -- I'm so glad to hear that! Thanks for your comment and enjoy your Rav4, they are great vehicles. :)
A very thorough job on this video - nice work!
Dude, crazy detail well done, and thanks.
Thanks, good luck!
At moment 14:57 ,I read about the impact wrench comment u put,and I can tell u from 16 years of self taught knowledge and experience,"I LEARNED IN MY 10TH YEAR THAT 95%OF ALL TIMING AND CRANK PULLEYS ,ALWAYS GONNA BE IMPACTED MY FRIEND,TRUST ME"!
Yes, I know -- and that's not the correct way to do. But I know that people do it that way. I don't, and I don't encourage anyone else to, either, especially on these lower-torque crank bolts. Thanks for watching!
wow. you are VERY good at these instructional videos. such a tight space too! Thank you so much!
Thank you, that's very kind -- Yes, it is a tight space indeed! Be sure to check out the Pinned Comment for Timestamps and important info, and good luck with your repair!
Yeah, some of the shots must have been recorded through L35iC's eyes. There's no way to get yourself and a camera in there.
@@superdupersalem Haha, yes, it is very tight! Recording always slows me down a lot because of exactly what you're saying -- finding a place to put the cell phone, but still having room for tools and hands. Sometimes I use the cell phone screen instead of my eyes, and that's helpful for those very tight spots, especially when you're just trying to place a fastener blind. Good luck!
L35 you are amazing and I watch a lot of car videos. Your’s are my favorite dues to how you make the video and you stick to the subject. Your awesome!
Wow, that's a very kind comment! Thank you, and thanks for watching! : )
Happy New Year, too!
Excellent video. It helped a lot as I have progressed through this.
Right on!
You've helped me a couple times, thank you!
Wow, that's great -- congrats on your Rav4 DIY's! Good luck : )
this is the best step by step thanks
Thanks! Thanks for your comment, and good luck!
Heya just seen this video today, I have done a number of timing kits of these vehicles and found the best way to remove the engine mount bracket is to lower the engine as far as you can with the damper removed, take all the bolts out of the timing covers so they sit loose, then you can drop the mount out from below with utter ease. Reverse for re install
Thank you for the tip! In your experience, about how long can you lower the engine?
L35 in Colorado I just keep dropping it down until the mount falls out. Just be aware of the lower radiator hose not to crush it.
@@KIWIXCUZZY Thank you for sharing this -- that is good information to have, and I'll try that next time!
I found that once the top timing-belt cover was off, then the bracket thingy came out the top easily.
Thank you so very much for all of your hard work.
Wow, what a nice comment -- thank you! I hope the video helps -- good luck! : )
Keep doing what you do. :)
Finally got it done. So thankful this one doesn't have ABS.
Again, we can not thank you enough for the work you put into making this video.
@@lkegley9 Congratulations, and well done!! I'm so glad the video helped -- great job on doing it yourself! : )
Thanks very good video. Great detail and orderly which made it easy to follow!
Thank you -- good luck!
Great video to watch. Thorough and well explained video. I watched it eventhough I don't a have a RAV 4. Just in case if my future wife might have one and should she call my name. I'll know exactly what to do.:):)
Haha! Thanks for watching : )
That crank bolt is sooo much easier with an impact.. even if ya have to get one from harbor freight.. they pay for themselves. I actually keep the belt on until I’ve cracked the crank bolt loose.
Edit: I also have the special thick walled Honda socket. It’s also a lifesaver.
Yes, for sure! I have two 1/2" drive air impacts now, and a bigger compressor than I did when I made this video. I know that a lot of people don't have air tools, though, so I always try to at show some other options (even if that option didn't work for me!).
I now also have the Lisle #77080 19mm harmonic balancer socket, which was recommended to me by commentor, and I love that socket! Check it out if you work on Toyotas and Hondas a lot. Thanks for you comment, and for sharing your tips! : )
Wow!! Very impressive video. Excellent job.
很好的修车教学视频，讲得很细致，示范得很清楚。赞 !
谢谢 (hopefully that means "thank you") I used Google translate on your comment, and it said this: "Very good car repair instruction video, it is very detailed and the demonstration is very clear. awesome" Thank you, and good luck on your Rav4 :)