I have two Megadrive II and both works perfectly. The market has been flooded with these machines and even if they were cheaper done most of the time they works better then the first version. The second one I bought for almost nothing since it had no box and cables. I even got a cool rent box and a RGB-cable. Mega Drive 2 model used a different AV output from the first generation machine, with a much smaller plug design, however it brought the welcome addition of Stereo Audio along with the Composite Video signal (whereas the original Mega Drive only had Mono audio output, and relied on the headphone socket for stereo sound conectivity. If you have a TV with RGN SCART input, consider getting the best picture possible with a Multi-AV to RGB SCART Cable.
erm, wow, I totally forgot about that Megadrive, now I feel like a **** writing that on the case/board I don't remember doing it but I obviously did not consider the extra editing, if I remember right it was savaged before I got it and I had so much trouble getting the 7805 desoldered I gave up, fast forward XX months I now understand the value of a quality soldering iron :D great to see it is up and running again!
Awesome repair. I love seeing this stuff fixed. On my model 1 and model 2 Sega Genesis consoles I had the same issues with the reset button and ended up sourcing a new button for both of them.
Hey Jan. When removing a regulator that's bound to a heatsink, get the hot air station out and warm up the area around the regulator, primarily the ground plane, then if you can prop station nozzle so its blowing on the heatsink while you work on the pins makes life far easier 👍
Fun fact: The old 9/10V unregulated PSU that came with the Mega Drive are really more in the ballpark of modern 12V Regulated PSU. I measured ~14V Idle for my Original Mega Drive Power Supply and 11,75V under Load. Another thing: If you are at around 13,5V or lower at idle and 11,5V and lower under load, you need to replace the 3300µF/16V Cap inside. I also have an old, Linear 12V PSU: unloaded it does 16V. Due to Rippleness of modern PSU, I think it might make sense to replace the Input caps with Polymer or a mixture of Polymer and Ceramic capacitors instead.
@@DrTofu83 9V Regulated DC PSU? That can work in some cases, on my SFC, a 9V SMPS didn't work. Though I don't own an Original one, aand can't measure it. And getting ine isn't easy as I need a Step Down Converter too... But I got a 10V Mega Drive one and measured that. And that was around 1,,75V under load, with a new Secondary Cap and~14V unloaded. Someone with a US NTSC SNES measured the no load Voltage for me and it was similar to the Mega Drive PSU.... Though I need to get a FULL BRIDGE RECTIFIER Inside the SFC. Also, something that might be important for use with modern PSU: you might want to replace the Input Cap with a modern Low ESR or even Polymer Cap.
@@Stefan_Payne Guess I got lucky, or the EU Master System II was somewhat more forgiving. The original 10V PSU died, I had this 9V from a guitar pedal, tried it and it worked with no hiccups
@@DrTofu83 How could the Original PSU die though? ;) Its just a lump of Copper and Metal + 2 or 4 Diodes and a BIG Capacitor. That's about it. So my guess would be that your Original PSU should be serviceable, if you still have it. All you need to do is to replace the Capacitor and/or the Diodes (or the Diodes with a FULL BRIDGE RECTIFIER)...
Very good repair. I think there must be several different versions of the Mega Drive II. I bought a lot of 3 on Ebay as broken and when I opened them, all 3 of them were different inside.
There were multiple revisions, starting at VA0, which seems to be the one Jan has here. According to the net, at least the NTSC version went through several revisions more. I don't see hints at other PAL revisions, though. Might be a good idea to replace the 7805 in my MD2, though...
Not to be rude, but this MD2 board does actually have a Z80. While a Toshiba clone in this case, it's the tiny square chip near the Sega logo and "PC BD MD2 VA0 PAL" text.
Back in those 199? Days,having a Sega mega drive was a virtue😀 for a kid and gift from heavens,not everyone as a guest was elligible enough to touch the precious Sega😂.good old days are gone for good,you know...
Nice to see that I'm not the only one who writes swearwords on boards that are broken! (The code I write isn't for the "sensitive", either! (MANY curses in comments!))
The z80 was often thrown in to that large ASIC chip, starting with the 315 label. Originally on model 1s it was just the VDP but later down the line they put more and more components into that ASIC.
Thanks for another nice video Jan; when you first opened the case I thought "someone has already replaced all (electrolitic) capacitors', that's how it looked to me. Are you sure those are the original capacitors?
For things like that regulator, preheating the board (and heatsink) with hot air works wonders. For the damaged ground pad.. im not actually sure why they bothered to use a plastic-cased 7805 here. The heatsink is connected to ground, and the centre tab of a TO-220 is connected to the middle pin - also ground!!
Great video, mine only showing a black screen atm. Got it from my brother who got it from a shutdowned Coffee Shop he needed to clean up en empty the building) and as you know people smoking a lot (of weed) in there. No PSU (u can use a PlayStation One PSU, same voltage), no Games but came with a Atari Joystick. Bought two games, but still black screen, got IPA recently and soon as i have the time i will clean out the Cartridge slot and the games with it and i hope that it works then :)
Hallo Jan, 7805S ist die isolierte Version des Reglers. 78S05 ist die 2Amp. Version. Bei dieser Reparatur scheint es egal zu sein, aber wenn mehrere Spannungsregler (z.B.: 7805 und 7905) mit dem selben Kühlkörper gekühlt werden, dann musst du die Spannungsregler isoliert aufsetzen!
Some later official Mega Drive 2 PAL consoles had Z80 functionality removed although. It would say so on the front of red coloured Mega 6 console boxes.
I got a question: On my own sega mega drive 2 I have the white letters with some yellow. So if I start a game and play it the white parts are yellow. Has this something to do with the power regulator or the capacitors? It also becomes hot on the left side on the cartridge where the power regulator is. Should I replace it?
Does the Mega Drive 2 also require Center negative PSU??? That's why I put in a FULL BRIDGE RECTIFIER in my two Mega Drive 1. So I can use modern SMPS.... And I also replaced, what I think is the Input capacitor, a 16V/220µF one, with a 470µF Nichicon on one and a 1000µF Kemet A750 in the other one (because i was out of Nichicons)
Wenn du das Gehäuse zum Schluss mit ein wenig Cockpitreiniger abwischst, sieht das Gerät am Ende noch einen Tick sauberer aus. Das Zeug entfernt zumindest die kleineren Kratzer ziemlich gut....
Hello Jan, I have a question. I think You live in a PAL (50Hz) region. But when You showcased the console, the game was running at 60Hz. What happened?
It's because a company in US called "Mega Drive Systems, Inc." held the trademark for "Mega Drive" in the USA for use with "computers and data processing equipment". So they had to give it a new name.
I had MD II in the 90s and love this console forever!
I have two Megadrive II and both works perfectly. The market has been flooded with these machines and even if they were cheaper done most of the time they works better then the first version. The second one I bought for almost nothing since it had no box and cables. I even got a cool rent box and a RGB-cable.
Mega Drive 2 model used a different AV output from the first generation machine, with a much smaller plug design, however it brought the welcome addition of Stereo Audio along with the Composite Video signal (whereas the original Mega Drive only had Mono audio output, and relied on the headphone socket for stereo sound conectivity. If you have a TV with RGN SCART input, consider getting the best picture possible with a Multi-AV to RGB SCART Cable.
erm, wow, I totally forgot about that Megadrive, now I feel like a **** writing that on the case/board I don't remember doing it but I obviously did not consider the extra editing, if I remember right it was savaged before I got it and I had so much trouble getting the 7805 desoldered I gave up, fast forward XX months I now understand the value of a quality soldering iron :D great to see it is up and running again!
And we viewers now have to keep guessing what you wrote. I even paused the video but Jan Beta did his job well hiding it. Bummer.
@@pe1dnn Pretty sure the one on the board says FUN, because that's what you have when trying to desolder that 7805 and heatsink
@@pe1dnn it rhymed with ducked
Awesome repair. I love seeing this stuff fixed. On my model 1 and model 2 Sega Genesis consoles I had the same issues with the reset button and ended up sourcing a new button for both of them.
Another great video Jan. I thoroughly enjoy watching them lots of variety and plenty to learn.
Thank you so much for putting this video out! I greatly appreciate the parts about removing the voltage regulator and fixing the reset button. :)
Hope it helps! It's certainly not very trivial to remove/replace the voltage regulator (as presented in the video). :D
Hey Jan. When removing a regulator that's bound to a heatsink, get the hot air station out and warm up the area around the regulator, primarily the ground plane, then if you can prop station nozzle so its blowing on the heatsink while you work on the pins makes life far easier 👍
I just snip the legs of the regulator as close to the body as possible, pull the legs out of the board when the heatsink is off.
Seconded, hot air + iron works magic when you are working on heat sinking areas.
If you know the 7805 is defective, a easy way to remove it is cut the pins and later remove the stubs from the board
Great repairing video buddy
I love how they just didn't give useful pointers, but wrote curses all over it, never seen that before. :)
Fun fact:
The old 9/10V unregulated PSU that came with the Mega Drive are really more in the ballpark of modern 12V Regulated PSU.
I measured ~14V Idle for my Original Mega Drive Power Supply and 11,75V under Load.
Another thing: If you are at around 13,5V or lower at idle and 11,5V and lower under load, you need to replace the 3300µF/16V Cap inside.
I also have an old, Linear 12V PSU: unloaded it does 16V.
Due to Rippleness of modern PSU, I think it might make sense to replace the Input caps with Polymer or a mixture of Polymer and Ceramic capacitors instead.
On my Master System 2 I'm using a 9V PSU pilfered from a Guitar Pedal and it works :)
@@DrTofu83 9V Regulated DC PSU? That can work in some cases, on my SFC, a 9V SMPS didn't work.
Though I don't own an Original one, aand can't measure it. And getting ine isn't easy as I need a Step Down Converter too...
But I got a 10V Mega Drive one and measured that. And that was around 1,,75V under load, with a new Secondary Cap and~14V unloaded. Someone with a US NTSC SNES measured the no load Voltage for me and it was similar to the Mega Drive PSU....
Though I need to get a FULL BRIDGE RECTIFIER Inside the SFC.
Also, something that might be important for use with modern PSU: you might want to replace the Input Cap with a modern Low ESR or even Polymer Cap.
@@Stefan_Payne Guess I got lucky, or the EU Master System II was somewhat more forgiving.
The original 10V PSU died, I had this 9V from a guitar pedal, tried it and it worked with no hiccups
@@DrTofu83 How could the Original PSU die though? ;)
Its just a lump of Copper and Metal + 2 or 4 Diodes and a BIG Capacitor. That's about it.
So my guess would be that your Original PSU should be serviceable, if you still have it. All you need to do is to replace the Capacitor and/or the Diodes (or the Diodes with a FULL BRIDGE RECTIFIER)...
Very good repair. I think there must be several different versions of the Mega Drive II. I bought a lot of 3 on Ebay as broken and when I opened them, all 3 of them were different inside.
There were multiple revisions, starting at VA0, which seems to be the one Jan has here. According to the net, at least the NTSC version went through several revisions more. I don't see hints at other PAL revisions, though. Might be a good idea to replace the 7805 in my MD2, though...
A clean & repaired Mega Drive is no longer angry emoji!
Watching somebody wash dishes in the kitchen sink: boring. Watching somebody wash vintage electronics cases in the kitchen sink: entertaining!
It's not F****d anymore, it's F*****g fixed!
F yeah
Not to be rude, but this MD2 board does actually have a Z80. While a Toshiba clone in this case, it's the tiny square chip near the Sega logo and "PC BD MD2 VA0 PAL" text.
Another great vídeo. Thanks for the entertainment Jan
Console stupenda.ottimo lavoro Jan
Back in those 199? Days,having a Sega mega drive was a virtue😀 for a kid and gift from heavens,not everyone as a guest was elligible enough to touch the precious Sega😂.good old days are gone for good,you know...
Nice job another one saved from the scrap heap 👍
Nice work, Jan!
Nice to see that I'm not the only one who writes swearwords on boards that are broken!
(The code I write isn't for the "sensitive", either! (MANY curses in comments!))
Great job Jan. I’m looking out for one of these myself as I have fond memories of playing Sonic the Hedgehog back in the day
Plenty of them about, especially on facebook market place, usually selling quite cheaply as well! 👍🏻
@@brendonelton nothing near me atm. Still looking
Oh, I see evil Bert is keeping an eye on things!
The z80 was often thrown in to that large ASIC chip, starting with the 315 label. Originally on model 1s it was just the VDP but later down the line they put more and more components into that ASIC.
Thanks for another nice video Jan; when you first opened the case I thought "someone has already replaced all (electrolitic) capacitors', that's how it looked to me. Are you sure those are the original capacitors?
Pretty sure. They are from the nineties (judging by their design) and there are no signs of resoldering on any of the capacitors as far as I can tell.
For things like that regulator, preheating the board (and heatsink) with hot air works wonders.
For the damaged ground pad.. im not actually sure why they bothered to use a plastic-cased 7805 here. The heatsink is connected to ground, and the centre tab of a TO-220 is connected to the middle pin - also ground!!
Thanks
Great video, mine only showing a black screen atm. Got it from my brother who got it from a shutdowned Coffee Shop he needed to clean up en empty the building) and as you know people smoking a lot (of weed) in there. No PSU (u can use a PlayStation One PSU, same voltage), no Games but came with a Atari Joystick. Bought two games, but still black screen, got IPA recently and soon as i have the time i will clean out the Cartridge slot and the games with it and i hope that it works then :)
Terrific keep it up.....Thanks v much.
Hallo Jan, 7805S ist die isolierte Version des Reglers. 78S05 ist die 2Amp. Version. Bei dieser Reparatur scheint es egal zu sein, aber wenn mehrere Spannungsregler (z.B.: 7805 und 7905) mit dem selben Kühlkörper gekühlt werden, dann musst du die Spannungsregler isoliert aufsetzen!
I'm trying to find online, sorry if you mentioned it in the video, but when was the mega drive 2 released?
That reset button is a PITA. It's on the Master System II as well
Some later official Mega Drive 2 PAL consoles had Z80 functionality removed although. It would say so on the front of red coloured Mega 6 console boxes.
The device which looks like a hybrid is a jumper pack for setting the region code.
No, it's a capacitor array on the data bus. They must have had problems with noise on that bus.
I got a question: On my own sega mega drive 2 I have the white letters with some yellow. So if I start a game and play it the white parts are yellow. Has this something to do with the power regulator or the capacitors? It also becomes hot on the left side on the cartridge where the power regulator is. Should I replace it?
Does the Mega Drive 2 also require Center negative PSU???
That's why I put in a FULL BRIDGE RECTIFIER in my two Mega Drive 1.
So I can use modern SMPS....
And I also replaced, what I think is the Input capacitor, a 16V/220µF one, with a 470µF Nichicon on one and a 1000µF Kemet A750 in the other one (because i was out of Nichicons)
Gute Arbeit! Du brauchst echt mal ne Lupe. Am besten eine kosmetiklampe. Hilft auch bei SMD Arbeiten
Wenn du das Gehäuse zum Schluss mit ein wenig Cockpitreiniger abwischst, sieht das Gerät am Ende noch einen Tick sauberer aus. Das Zeug entfernt zumindest die kleineren Kratzer ziemlich gut....
Hello Jan, I have a question. I think You live in a PAL (50Hz) region. But when You showcased the console, the game was running at 60Hz. What happened?
At least a New video!!!
I know you meant channel/tunnel, but I keep thinking about a version of the Channel Tunnel inside the plastic now
Haha, that would be an interesting "feature". :D
jetzt will ich wissen was auf dem Shield & Board stand
16:42 😉
Wenn Du das Spülbecken so voll machst, sind die drei Spritzer Spiritus doch auch irgendwie egal, oder? 😁
One can guess what is wrong with a Mega Drive, they seem to only break in those ways and the caps they somehow haven’t gone bad yet!
I can't believe this shit, Jurgen Klopp is fixing sega mega drive!!!
16:00 there was a diagram for the pins engraved on the plastic part of the plug.
Yep. I only realized that when I edited the video... :D
You have to be carefull cleaning the case with IPA... Because the labels printed on it could vanish...
Help mr. sega mega md2 when playing a few minutes freeze/stuck scren
Ah yes, it seems that they used the technical terms to describe its' operational status... :P
That reset button can be replaced with a much better tactile button.
Zerbrochen is more like "smashed" I guess you would say.
Indeed. I guess "kaputt" or "defekt" would be the proper German word in this context. :)
@@JanBeta *Memories of the guy from Oomph shouting "Defekt!" repeatedly for 6 minutes straight intensify.*
Haha, I had Winter Challenge back in the day. What a crap game that was.
Hey Jan! Ich schau mal in meine Sega Kiste. Vielleicht hab ich noch ein Netzteil das ich dir schicken kann! Update: Ja hab ich :-)
8:20 was afraid you were gonna stab yourself with that screwdriver, i've done stuff like that...
here in the us we call it the genesis instead of megadrive and im not actually sure who came up with the idea
It's because a company in US called "Mega Drive Systems, Inc." held the trademark for "Mega Drive" in the USA for use with "computers and data processing equipment". So they had to give it a new name.
I’ve never seen one with red buttons.
I’ve never seen one without red buttons!
@@SproutyPottedPlant is that a European mega drive thing? All the Genesis I have seen have black buttons.
@@mattks1001 it sure is!
Yes, that's the european model, with sega mega drive 2 logo, american model is all black with sega genesis logo...
"Repairing the fu**ed revision of the Mega Drive II board"...