I do like your chat sessions, as well as your compelling recommendations, actually seeing you soldering the solder components is okay all in all I appreciate you letting me look over your shoulder.
Working on a Marantz 2252 right and left channel. I'd love you to show how you tear it down from the output transformers and where where to apply heat shink. I know it isn't the same board but feel it would definitely help. Love the videos!! Keep em coming.
I just found your channel. My son was gifted a Marantz 2285b and there is a bad hiss in the left channel. It's the black European model. I cleaned the controls and replaced the lamps and vellum paper. I also wired the electric plug to the correct polarity. I am going to watch this series very carefully. Thanks! And subbed.
Yes. Do the capacitor/power amp. talkabout. I have a 2285B that I'm using to listen to your video on. It's my daily rig and I use it for everything. I put a Bluetooth receiver on one of the input pairs. I also have a PC connected to a LED TV and the audio is using the same Marantz. I drive a couple of JBL L5's with it. I've had this rig since around 1982. I told a friend of mine I was looking for a Marantz and he found this in Oregon in a pawn shop for sale for $175. I told him to buy it for me. All 46 pounds of it. It's only failed once and that was a capacitor in the power protection relay circuit. It got gradually longer with its startup delay. I see on eBay that working ones are going for over $1000. As fate would have it, when you were talking that "grain of wheat" bulb on the indicator going out, I looked at mine and it was out also. I don't listen to radio on it so I never picked up on it. I use mine for various line in things and also have a cheepo WiFi only phone that I Bluetooth to an external BT box so I can listen to streaming music of my choice. Thanks for doing a video on this rig. It'll allow me to see deeper in to it. Oh... when my lights went out in it, I replaced them with incandescents. I just wanted to have the original look.
Hi Tony. I have begun to use wired SMD LEDs for the dial pointer lamp replacements. Then just add whatever limiting resistor is needed at the power source end (not the LED end, which gets in the way) covered in shrink tube. The SMD LEDs come in various colors too as "kits" complete with a range of 1/4w resistors for use up to 12v. What is nice is the LED itself is at a right angle and points down onto the pointer itself instead of "straight out" like standard LEDs giving great full illumination. The wire on them is simply magnet wire so you'll need to solder the flexible stranded wires to them, then of course shrink tube them. The results so far have been great.
Really enjoying the content on this channel. Have since picked up a Pioneer SX-3700 and love it so far. Would really like to see Tony explain on a video how a PID Loop works. I’ve watched tons of vids on it and can’t find any that can adequately, or visually, explain how it works, what each variable adjusts, and what to anticipate by adjusting each variable.
Re; muting bright LED's - I tried wrapping em in cigarette papers then colouring them orange, fiddly job but worked out ok.Thanks for another video, all the best......DA. PS, though not bothered about cap replacement etc, I'm just happy to hear you rabbit on about anything, be it tech talk or 15th Century cheese hurling.
I would like to know the details of the indicator LED capacitive dropper circuit that you bodged in. Did you use a zener, etc? I vote for running audio commentary, too.
He discusses that subject in a later episode on this subject. Bottom line is they're already very good transistors and most replacements wouldn't be as good.
Tony thanks for video. I need to replace main caps in my 2285B. I would like to buy one of the circuit boards you had screened. I know you had more than 1 made. Please send me info
I believe micro-seconds is correct as it refers to the de-emphasis applied to the pre-emphasis signal supplied at the originating broadcast station, which is a time-based function.
Hi Tony, I am about to mess with my unit (same model) in recapping it, I already have most of the components plus I have an issue with the bass pot that does not work, it does rotate but it is stocked on max-bass, both channels, any ideas where to start troubleshooting besides the mechanics of the pot and its resistance variation? Also, I am wondering if you can design (for a fee) a pc board that uses 2 caps per channel instead of four like in your case. Thank you!
85 watts de potencia x canal. B por blue color del panel. Veamos... La línea de modelos 22xx y 22xxB ya que es importante tener en cuenta que hay algunos modelos "B tempranos" que no tienen el mismo diseño que los modelos 22xxB de cara plateada de 1978 en adelante. Modelos Marantz 22xx: En la primera generación clásica, los modelos incluyen: 2215, 2216, 2220, 2225, 2226, 2230, 2235, 2238, 2240, 2245, 2250, 2252, 2265, 2270, 2275, 2285 Los primeros modelos "B" incluyen: 2220B, 2230B, 2235B, 2250B Serie 22xxB de cara plateada: los modelos modernos del año 1978 en adelante incluyen: 2216B, 2226B, 2238B, 2252B, 2265B, 2285B 22?? : La serie 22xxB de Marantz incluía una opción para un nuevo gabinete de nogal, el modelo WC-122, que eran interpretaciones más modernas y de diseño aerodinámico en comparación con el clásico WC-22.
Wow! 3% voltage loss in the old capacitor compared to the new one at .4%. Now I could be wrong but Vloss = voltage loss which = leakage! I don't exactly know how a capacitor with high ESR would affect the circuit operation in where that capacitor was but a capacitor leaking DC in that circuit could potentially be biasing a transistor or opamp somewhere else in the circuit which eventually leads to component failure! I really don't see how high ESR could cause component failure? I say this because ESR is what everyone seems to be talking about regarding capacitors and always overlook DC leakage! If anyone knows better, I would love to hear their own thoughts on the matter...
Absolutely Tony let’s do it. Love to hear your commentary while you’re doing the work
I do like your chat sessions, as well as your compelling recommendations, actually seeing you soldering the solder components is okay all in all I appreciate you letting me look over your shoulder.
Love this I have a couple 2325's needing maintenance. . If you can list the parts substitutions you use this will be quite helpful. and sources.
Working on a Marantz 2252 right and left channel. I'd love you to show how you tear it down from the output transformers and where where to apply heat shink. I know it isn't the same board but feel it would definitely help. Love the videos!! Keep em coming.
I just found your channel. My son was gifted a Marantz 2285b and there is a bad hiss in the left channel. It's the black European model. I cleaned the controls and replaced the lamps and vellum paper. I also wired the electric plug to the correct polarity. I am going to watch this series very carefully. Thanks! And subbed.
Yes. Do the capacitor/power amp. talkabout. I have a 2285B that I'm using to listen to your video on. It's my daily rig and I use it for everything. I put a Bluetooth receiver on one of the input pairs. I also have a PC connected to a LED TV and the audio is using the same Marantz. I drive a couple of JBL L5's with it. I've had this rig since around 1982. I told a friend of mine I was looking for a Marantz and he found this in Oregon in a pawn shop for sale for $175. I told him to buy it for me. All 46 pounds of it. It's only failed once and that was a capacitor in the power protection relay circuit. It got gradually longer with its startup delay. I see on eBay that working ones are going for over $1000.
As fate would have it, when you were talking that "grain of wheat" bulb on the indicator going out, I looked at mine and it was out also. I don't listen to radio on it so I never picked up on it. I use mine for various line in things and also have a cheepo WiFi only phone that I Bluetooth to an external BT box so I can listen to streaming music of my choice. Thanks for doing a video on this rig. It'll allow me to see deeper in to it. Oh... when my lights went out in it, I replaced them with incandescents. I just wanted to have the original look.
I would like to hear your commentary. I’m always learning something new from you. Thanks for your time and effort’s Tony.
Always wondered about those dolby modules-thanks for explaining this!!!!!!
OK, the chicken cameo was killer!
Hi Tony. I have begun to use wired SMD LEDs for the dial pointer lamp replacements. Then just add whatever limiting resistor is needed at the power source end (not the LED end, which gets in the way) covered in shrink tube. The SMD LEDs come in various colors too as "kits" complete with a range of 1/4w resistors for use up to 12v. What is nice is the LED itself is at a right angle and points down onto the pointer itself instead of "straight out" like standard LEDs giving great full illumination. The wire on them is simply magnet wire so you'll need to solder the flexible stranded wires to them, then of course shrink tube them. The results so far have been great.
Can you post a link to what smd you use?
@@scrappy7571 Sure if you like Amazon. You might be able to find them elsewhere but I haven't looked. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QPVGPJH?psc=1
I'm up for the ride along when you do the capacitors. I 'll probably watch this some more for the lamps and such. Thanks for the look.
Really enjoying the content on this channel. Have since picked up a Pioneer SX-3700 and love it so far. Would really like to see Tony explain on a video how a PID Loop works. I’ve watched tons of vids on it and can’t find any that can adequately, or visually, explain how it works, what each variable adjusts, and what to anticipate by adjusting each variable.
Thank you Tony, can't wait for the part 2, greetings from the Philippines
I love my 2285 b I bought it used and couldn't be happier thanks for the video
Oh, Tony. If only I had a fraction of your skill set, I'd be a happier man with my vintage gear👍 and yes I'd like to see the amp board be redone 🤩
FOR SURE TONY BRING US ALONG WE LOVE IT
Another great video... I all be around for the whole series...
Re; muting bright LED's - I tried wrapping em in cigarette papers then colouring them orange, fiddly job but worked out ok.Thanks for another video, all the best......DA. PS, though not bothered about cap replacement etc, I'm just happy to hear you rabbit on about anything, be it tech talk or 15th Century cheese hurling.
Need to frost an LED? Just hit it with a little sandpaper.
She's a beauty!
I do like your chat sessions Tony..Thanks
Excellent Video Tony :)
Can you do a tutorial on some more mundane stuff. Like cleaning the boards and the pots
I'm getting a little bit of D-Lab vibes. Must be the chicken.
SONY used a lot of those "orange caps" on their boards. I replaced a lot of them with the newer film squares.
Why do you always show radios that are so cool? I want them all! I really enjoy your videos.
In for the whole restoration, please, thanks!
YES, do that part!!! PLEASE.
Yes, on the power caps/commentary. I'm about to recap my 9090db dolby board, even though it serves no purpose the audio path still passes through it.
I would like to know the details of the indicator LED capacitive dropper circuit that you bodged in. Did you use a zener, etc? I vote for running audio commentary, too.
Yes please, love your talkes.
What is your opinion on replacing the output transistors or transistors in general when doing a restoration? Thanks. Great video
He discusses that subject in a later episode on this subject. Bottom line is they're already very good transistors and most replacements wouldn't be as good.
Tony thanks for video. I need to replace main caps in my 2285B. I would like to buy one of the circuit boards you had screened. I know you had more than 1 made. Please send me info
How did you clean the pots?
Why did the stations not use a OFDM encoded stereo so when decoded you would have CD quality sound.
on the fm/am tunner knob , i guess is micro siemens (electric conductance unit), no micro seconds
I believe micro-seconds is correct as it refers to the de-emphasis applied to the pre-emphasis signal supplied at the originating broadcast station, which is a time-based function.
YES! Do the CAPs.
Hi Tony, I am about to mess with my unit (same model) in recapping it, I already have most of the components plus I have an issue with the bass pot that does not work, it does rotate but it is stocked on max-bass, both channels, any ideas where to start troubleshooting besides the mechanics of the pot and its resistance variation?
Also, I am wondering if you can design (for a fee) a pc board that uses 2 caps per channel instead of four like in your case.
Thank you!
I like the little talk :D
I bet they sold very few of those Dolby decoders. I have never seen one. They should be rarer then hens teeth.
I thought that ELNA Silmic-II's were good low leakage caps???
I think alot of chickens were harmed
Signed
Chik fil Cows
Please add the detail on the PA section.
Wish there was more disassemble for us noobs.
I was curious if the amplifier circuit in that receiver is Class A, Class B, Class AB, Class C, or Clsss D.
Probably class AB but not absolutely sure
My 2285B has a different layout. How many versions are there?
All 2285b’s look the same there are no different versions
@@robertcarbone7807 european version does not have dolby decoder.
I have some of those grain of wheat bulbs!! :D
Tony, you just talk if you have something to say and I'm just going to listen 👂...
Too bad you couldn't play Ozark Mountain Daredevil's Chicken Train...
🤣🤣
yup. i enjoy it
Man I want one so bad.
i have 1 that i have owned since i was 16 bought new in a box .. pristine !! 3k takes it .. how bad do u want 1 ???
@@boooochee not that badly. A 2275 fell in my lap two weeks ago.
@@jimbo141 I just bought a mint 2285B for $1200
Chicken was awesome!
Please do the next video
chicker chicker dinnin winner!
I have one for sale. with the dolby FM decoder today is 1/6/24
Is it digital signal Dolby FM I think you could transmit it over the internet and decode it into FM
que significa 22 85 b ??que es la b?
85 watts de potencia x canal. B por blue color del panel. Veamos... La línea de modelos 22xx y 22xxB ya que es importante tener en cuenta que hay algunos modelos "B tempranos" que no tienen el mismo diseño que los modelos 22xxB de cara plateada de 1978 en adelante.
Modelos Marantz 22xx:
En la primera generación clásica, los modelos incluyen: 2215, 2216, 2220, 2225, 2226, 2230, 2235, 2238, 2240, 2245, 2250, 2252, 2265, 2270, 2275, 2285
Los primeros modelos "B" incluyen: 2220B, 2230B, 2235B, 2250B
Serie 22xxB de cara plateada: los modelos modernos del año 1978 en adelante incluyen: 2216B, 2226B, 2238B, 2252B, 2265B, 2285B
22?? : La serie 22xxB de Marantz incluía una opción para un nuevo gabinete de nogal, el modelo WC-122, que eran interpretaciones más modernas y de diseño aerodinámico en comparación con el clásico WC-22.
Wow! 3% voltage loss in the old capacitor compared to the new one at .4%.
Now I could be wrong but Vloss = voltage loss which = leakage!
I don't exactly know how a capacitor with high ESR would affect the circuit operation in where that capacitor was but a capacitor leaking DC in that circuit could potentially be biasing a transistor or opamp somewhere else in the circuit which eventually leads to component failure!
I really don't see how high ESR could cause component failure?
I say this because ESR is what everyone seems to be talking about regarding capacitors and always overlook DC leakage!
If anyone knows better, I would love to hear their own thoughts on the matter...
Hi I'm not sure how to contact you if you do repairs for customers I would like to get in touch with you C how to and where to ship my units to you
Thank you for the comment. I'm currently not taking on any outside projects. Check out the message at the beginning of this video. Best regards!
He doesn't fix amplifiers as a service, only as hobby, he does these video's as he's a really nice bloke, bless him.....DA.
@@xraytonyb ok thanks
Yes please, don't skip a thing.