I came back to watch this video a second time, take notes and screen shots. This is an extremely helpful layman's guide; you managed to convey a complex job in a way that a hobbyist can follow easily...which is not so easy! THANK YOU. I find your clarity of delivery/message, helpful presentation slides, and general attitude toward the entire process...a breath of fresh air. WELL DONE!!!!!!
Thanks so much for this. I've restored about 25 Marantz receivers in the last 5 years ( and i'm no professional , just a hobbyist ) and I wish I had this basic info when I started. I stumbled onto this by accident. Over those last 5 years I always thought to myself " why doesn't someone do an explainer video for the basic Marantz restoration"! Great job my friend.
Spectacular video. I have a 2252b I've been planning for years to restore but was too intimidated. After watching this I feel more confident in what to do for a proper job. Thanks so much for doing this.
I commend you for taking the time to provide this video for all of us. It takes a lot to put yourself out there and give us your experiences in upgrading / restoring this equipment. I admire anyone that can not only do this kind of thing but also accept the fact that there are going to be those that criticize your techniques. There is a learning curve in all of this and I'm sure you learn just as much from our feedback as we learn from you. Keep up the good work. You are helping and encouraging many of us out there that enjoy this hobby.
I had this exact receiver back in 1996! I was in an electronics class and a music shop would donate broken equipment, we would fix it in the lab and auction it off for class trips and parties. Marantz and Sansui amps are mostly the same as far as the circuitry and yes, they absolutely rock! Most problems we came across in these types of amps were output transistors and resistors in the output stage. great video!
In my many years of experience. I rarely recap items because in most cases they don't need it. Not only that, there could be hundreds of caps in some things(expensive). In CRT Tv's I only replace the ones that are stressed by heat, high voltage, or are obviously leaking. I leave the rest in if they test good. As a rule, capacitors usually don't fail unless they are backwards, cooked by heat, or operate at a voltage that is to close to the max rating. I have seen some that were actually operated higher than max voltage spec that was a part sourcing mistake during design , or assembly. I don't replace transistors, or diodes unless they are actually bad. The pitfalls of replacing some transistors is they will be equivalents and may mess up the bias of a circuit, creating unwanted distortion. Some actually can't be found because they were made for motor drive circuits like in old 45 jukeboxes. Realistically most audio equipment is not turned on 24/7 at max volume and won't see abuse. Trust me, home audio equipment will never see the abuse that arcade equipment gets. The most important thing about fixing items is you should make notes about what was done and when; and leave a record in or on the item with a sticker.
I'm sorry, but you're an idiot. Capacitors fail. Period. Over time, EVERY electrolytic capacitor will fail. You're that lazy service tech that likes to have customers bringing the same device back to him again...and again...and again...just to replace one thing at a time as it fails. I sure hope you aren't charging customers for your "skills"
I bought a used Marantz receiver from a friend circa 1979-80 when I was 22-23. I always thought Marantz was the best quality and I loved their ads. And they were the best looking receiver IMO, with the blue lights and wood case. It was only a few years old, but my friend wanted to upgrade. I think I paid him around $100 for it. I used it for about 20 years, mostly to run a turntable off of it and of course for the radio. I also had a cassette and even a reel-to-reel hooked up to it at different times. About 20 years I ago - as the way I listened to music had changed significantly - the Marantz was collecting dust, so I gave to Goodwill. I didn't think it had much value. It was old technology, I thought, though it worked perfectly when I got rid of it. I had no idea that collecting and restoring vintage receivers from the '70s was a thing.
1st timer. Been an analog man a long time. you have become like my high school teacher, from Germany, who tried to make me understand how it works. I was not a learner then. Thanks for the knowledge.
I know just enough to get myself in trouble when trying to work on my marantz amplifier. The way you draw it on paper is definitely a way I can understand it. I have referenced this video many times. Seriously thanks for all the hard work you put into your videos.
I know you don't take projects but if you ever change your mind I have a Tandberg TR-2060 that needs to be repaired. I think that would be a fun video to watch.
Tip: The "obsolete" information described at 14:00 is far from obsolete, but in fact, very relevant. I recently had a Pioneer SX-780 that I had to do an alignment on to correct a stereo decoding issue, that replacing components didn't resolve. You will find all the test equipment listed on that page on the workbench of every professional. At 15:41, "EQ" is used to denote RIAA Equalization. It implements standard compensation circuitry to maintain tonal balance by stereo manufacturers in conjunction with the vinyl record industry.
You’re timing is impeccable because I acquired a 2215b a couple of days ago with one channel not producing sound. Will be ordering a prepackaged restoration kit and attempting my first complete recap. Thanks for uploading.
15:38 The phono preamp is likely called an EQ amp as it removes the RIAA equalization from a record applied during recording. The curve is applied to reduce bass and allow the grooves to be more closely spaced, reduces noise (similar to Dolby NR), and reduces potential damage to the grooves during playback.
Top chap, this is the easiest to follow vintage Marantz video on TH-cam and just what I have been waiting for before attempting to recap my 2230 A+++++++++
@@AHFixIt That would be great, I look forward to it very much as you have simplified things ln this video that are achievable for the novice to attempt, it's now not so daunting a task as it looks, thank you very much.
Thank you! I’m a novice and am about to get into my 4240 to do what you show in the video here. I would be interested in the brand/part number of the replacement diodes, transistors, and capacitors you replaced where original parts weren’t available. I suspect many of them will appear in the 4240. Great video, relatable and easy to follow and understand. Again, thank you!
You would make an excellent teacher. I just bought a SR1000 and there are some problems that I need to address this video will help me understand what I am looking at. I have been binge watching your videos before I start working on it I am not restoring just want to fix some issues. Great videos love them.
This is a great reference video for Marantz receiver rebuilds and some aspects can relate to other manufacturers as well. Thanks for taking all the time to put this together. For someone like myself just getting into working on my own stereo components this will be very helpful.
Awesome video!!! The only thing I would add is that I would go some general cleanup with some isopropyl alcohol to remove they dirt that seems to be everywhere on the top side, and any residual flux that might create issues in the future.
I just did my first recap. I only did the power supply, power output board, tone board and coupling caps. This is a 50 year old Sherwood S-7100A. I found that the two 47uF caps both had a lead break off trying to desolder them. I noticed that these leads were both corroded so I figure those caps were going bad. Most of the other caps I removed all measured more than 20% higher than they should have. I mat go back to recap the rest of it based on these findings.
I am amazed by your work young man. You keep it up, you make me feel like there is hope for the future. My Son and his friends are very much like you. My son loves Problems to solve with engines or cars ect. I’m still running a Marantz 2325 with Klipsch K-Horns M&K sub on A, B speakers are Klipsch Belle’s in back. It still Rocks after all these years. I’m giving lots of thought to Restoring the Marantz, having it done, as it would kill me to ruin it. But I want it not just Restored but Updated ! I want it to sound as good as possible if I am going to have it done. You keep up the good work !
From years of doing this often the scratchy comes back and you have to keep messing with the sliders and volume controls. A lot of it is dust and carbon. It could be a week later and it comes back. So, I've been thinking that before lubing those up to get a small air compressor and blowing out the control. It won't damage anything but the grit and the dust might get blown out and then you can add your lube. For years I'd have the ends of some controls get scratch and have to tell folks to shut if off and rotate them through their full motions a few times and it would go away...but the air compressor seems like an extra step to prevent it come coming back. You can get spiders and webs and corrosions and dust in the oddest places so just a thought
i used to be a pc repair tech - i have the PC vac Blower i use it on all pots after washing them - blows out the crud, then i do it again till the ots and switchs work.
An absolutely epic video! It held my attention! I watched the whole thing without skipping, but I ran it a bit higher in playback speed. A reference-quality presentation, for certain! Mahalo!
Excellent video. Now I know why they charge so much if you have to take it to a repair shop to fix it! I might just stick to changing the RCA cable on my Kenwood turntable. My Marantz 2220b just distorts once in a while, when I play records or reel to reel tape players.
My first receiver was a Marantz 2270 which I bought new from Rabson's on 57th St. NYC in 1976. Cost $389 + tax. I used it until 1978 when I stupidly sold it for $180. By then I was into separate components - an AGI 511 preamp and a GAS Son of Ampzilla powering DCM Time Windows. I should have kept the 2270 to use as an FM tuner.
This video is very well done. I Grew up in the era when these machines were the cats ass and they still are really. Marantz, pioneer, Kenwood, Sansui. All great gear. I will likely have to keep my eye out for a deal on one. I donno if I have the gumption to do a full restore such as this but your video will certainly serve as an excellent invaluable primer & guide for the job if I ever do. Thx for making video AND sharing ! 👍👍
Excellent video. Must have taken ages to produce. I'm strictly amateur and don't have near the dexterity or patience to refurbish my 2270 (which has been partially restored over the years), but it will give me a working knowledge of what to talk about with my local service shop when it goes on the bench this summer. Walking through the service manual was great. I like your attitude of "some things matter, some things don't."
thanks a lot for your video! I am very glad that you showed me all what matters as I am currently restoring a Marrantz 2225 L. I will start with the power supply today ;-) Kind regards from Germany!
Hi Aidan, Very good video and super tips and tricks ( ID the audio path). Would love the Hakko fr-301 - just not sure if I can justify the $230.00 expense?? Thanks again for what your doing!! Regards, Jack P.S. Seems like the Marantz service manuals are laid out very well, compared to some others.
Thanks! The FR-301 is worth every penny plus some if you play around with this stuff regularly. I got by with the spring-loaded pen for years before I upgraded. If you find yourself spending a lot of time with the pen, you've seen me use the Hakko in my videos. You can do the math to see how much time you'd save and decide if it's worthwhile for you.
A very quick test on any PN junction device like a bipolar transistor or diode in circuit is to use the diode check function on your meter. Make sure the power is off. Some meters don't have this function. Get one that does. It is your friend. I am able to verify 99% of the transistors on a PCB stuffed with discretes in about 10 minutes. That mode does the following, It sources a small amount current out the positive probe that returns via the negative probe, Then it measures the voltage of the positive probe with respect to the negative probe. A typical PN junction will read 0.6v base to emitter, and a little higher, base to collector. One has to get the meter leads properly polarized. For NPN types, the red lead needs to be on the base, then walk the black lead alternately between the other two leads. Both times the meter should read ~0.6volts. My fluke gives a short beep when ~ 0.6 is achieved. For a PNP, the black lead is positioned on the base and red is walked back and forth. Even when you don't know if the transistor is PNP or NPN, within 1 minute you can try every combination. There will be no beep collector to emitter. So a good transistor has two beep combos. All other combos of two leads on a three pinned device do not beep, or....beep continuously indicating a short between the the two leads you are currently probing. This is a typical failure mode for semiconductor devices BTW. Another failure mode is no beep at all which indicates no PN junction detected at all, open This applies to 99% of the transistors in a circuit. It doesn't work if there's is a resistor of low impedance, say less than 300 ohms, between the base and the other pin. This shunts the test current. This test works for diodes too. - just two cases. Only beeps on one. This is the first test I do after a thorough inspection. It saves me beaucoup test time even before turning on the power making me a competitive fixit guy.
Day 1: "Swap out all the transistors." Day 2: "Don't blindly substitute transistors, here's what went bad..." Day 3: "How to do it right this time..." Day 4: "Here's a new video on what went wrong with replacing the transistors"
@@Stereosandotherfun I totally agree and in electronics it's often a valuable learning exercise, but repeating the same only goes to demonstrate a fundamental misunderstanding of the concept. Repeating the mistake doesn't prove anything.
At 2:11:58 you show the amplifier board after restoration and it looks like you put audio quality KA caps in the C705 and C706 positions. I don't think the audio signal runs through those caps. The [left channel] audio path should come through J701, through C701, R703, H701, H703, and then split between H707 and H709, and finally H711 and H713 output transistors. If I am mistaken, please let me know. Thanks AH!
New at this hobby. Is there a big difference between KSA992FTA , FATA, AND FBU. Not sure what my MAR.2252 should use in tone board for 2SA 722 replacement. Thanks !
They have different gains. It might matter, it might not. Can't say for sure until it's tested in circuit. Ideally you test the gain of the 2sa722 and see what it is, then buy the closest 992 to whatever gain that is. Check the datasheet to see the gain ranges of each one.
Back in the seventies, getting through high school, and getting on with college .. I was “poor as hell”, and couldn’t afford a Marantz (and anything else any good). But, sure wanted one. However, I was given a non working stereo tube amp by Silvertone. I was able to fix it, and made do for a very long time. I wish I didn’t just throw it away 40+ years ago (very valuable collectors item now), when I got my Scott system …
Hi, thank you so much for the video. I'm about to restore my father's Marantz 2270. Before even touch anything, I'm investigating a lot, so this info is really great. I don't know if you ever read this, but I'm struggling to remove the knobs for treble and mid on my 2270 because they are not easy to get off, the volume or the other simple buttons were easy. In the 2270 the treble and mid are like 2 on 1 knob, I really don't want to damage anything, so, maybe could you provide some advice? Thank you!
Hi, it seems HiFi Engine has closed its books and won't let anyone else join, is there anywhere else you recommend for Marantz Service Manuals. There was an ElectricTanky but that doesn't have a huge data base and sometimes only has a schematic. I love your channel and easy explanations. Thanks for taking the time to make these great tutorials. Cheers, Darren, Hobart, Tasmania, Australia.
Do you have a video where you show how to cut wires in order to remove any board in the receiver? I have a Marantz 4220 that is missing a Phono board. I bought the P200 board off ebay- Do I have to solder those wires back? How do you know which wires to go which metal pins?
I think I've mentioned once before (maybe not) - go to your dentist and ask them to save the old dential pics for your, rather than throwing them away. They are way better than those cheap ones at the grocery store, these are the real deal and hard to break. Anyway, they are great for scraping that glue off in tight spots, and getting under legs for a nice pull. Just don't think about how many gross mouths they've been in. But seriously, once you start using them, you'll think "why didn't I do this years ago"
Wow, thank you for producing this video, you did an awesome job and I, just like many others, certainly appreciate it! Great job! A+ PS: When you finished rebuilding that unit, did you adjust the bias? Just curious.
Also don't fart around measuring if it's safe just take a clip lead and short it out won't hurt a think and will discharge any cap or even a screw driver. If you have a good cap checker with leakage you can check many to see if indeed they are bad as it's hard to find some of the bigger ones with the right form factor.
So you made a comment about it being muffled and distorted. That's how mine sounds. I found mine and my grandfather's garage and it is clean. But I'm having a problem with the sound. I thought maybe it was the volume knob but it's not I'm not quite sure and could use your advice on this
Some semi conductors are more failure prone than other, but as someone else wrote, I don't replace transistors unless they're bad or noisy, and I usually put a better, newer replacement. As for the diodes, it's the same thing, I don't replace any unless they're bad, or if the manufacturer issued a revision. One notable exception is the sony V-fet integrated, in which the double junction diodes can cause a catastrophic failure of the output transistors, but these amplifier are in another league than a marantz receiver and unless you know what you're doing, you might want a professional to do it right. These transistors aren't made anymore and are very expensive WHEN they come up on ebay. As for the recap, it depends on how the device is performing. If you want to do it, you can, I don't do it unless it's necessary, or in older tube equipment with paper in wax/oil capacitors that become unstable and leaky. I'm an electronic technician with 40 years of experience.
Hey there Thanks a million times for sharing that priceless knowledge. I own quite a few vintage receivers, walkmans, cd players etc... I've bought a lot of gear to try and start servicing some of this fine stuff but what I definitely lack currently is... Parts ! So Would you be so kind as to tell me what parts i should start with ? My gear is the usual Pioneer sx's, Sony str, Sansui 1 digit, 3, digit and the likes so i know there's tons of capacitors and transistors they have in common, now all i need is a bunch of parts to cover most grounds as far as basic servicing is concerned. I'm thinking batches of common transistors and capacitors that would got me covered. Hope i'm being clear here, English is not my mother tongue. Thanks in advance. And Thanks again for the time and effort you put in to present us with all the knowledge. 🙏
I had to teach myself to gather in moderation. I learned the hard way that just because you refurb something and put value in it. It does not mean others will fairly compensate you for it, or worse you get stuck with a supply of equipment not everyone wants. Cd players are a crapshoot if the laser fails. I realistically could repair everything if parts could be had, but technology pushers want you to buy their current fad gadgets instead.
I wish you would do a flow chart like that for my Realistic STA 2000 (D) receiver. I would like to know how the boards are designed and connected. I have a friend who might replace the capacitors and bench test the boards. Where would I find a schematic? Hi-Fi Engine is not accepting new members due to abuse. I cannot download a manual.
Amazing work , I just bought a 2226b with no signal in right channel I'm going to follow your steps to try to find out the issue, in your huge experience what you think is the common problem of this issue? Greetings from Mexico 🇲🇽
Wow, GREAT video and explanations.. I have a Marantz 2275 and my right speaker is lower and not as many high's as the left ? What do you think the cause? Any help would be great.. Thank You.. JoSoFo
Great vid & an incredible amount of info! Looking to get a couple of Marantz restorations done and I now have an idea of what the technician will/should be doing and where my $ is going to.
Great video! Thanks a lot. Regarding the tuner board recap. Did it ever fixed a tuner for you? I wonder if recap a tuner board can fix a non-working tuner in vintage receivers. Or maybe help improve the signal reception strength, solve the stereo problems etc...? (I know that sometimes when tuner doesnt work in stereo, but it work in mono)
@@AHFixIt i know, but exactly as you said, i have quite much knowledge & experience In all boarss except the tuner. So this is why i asked wehther replace the capacitors may solve tuner issues (luckilly?) Now.. i know that you may say it's possible,but i want to know if it happened to you already?
Need help! I have a 2270 marantz, was working fine and just stopped making sound. Unit turns on but no sound. I changed the relay capacitors . Now the relay clicks right away when I turn unit on, not 3 seconds after turning on. Can you help
Fantastic video, just like all of your others and a valuable resource for all of us noobs. Quick question though, I have a Sansui 6060 that I'd like to restore, but most of the component leads have dark black tarnish that is preventing contact of my multimeter probes. Have you come across this issue and how would you deal with it? Remove the components and clean all of the leads or just replace them all?
With the unit turned off, you can carefully scrape that stuff off with a pocket knife or x-acto blade. Otherwise try to measure at the joint from the back of the board
@@AHFixIt Thank you for the reply. It is greatly appreciated. I did wonder about testing from underneath, but it's so much easier to see what I'm connecting to from the top, lol. I know I'll have to do it eventually though, so I guess I should just get to it. Thanks again for the reply and keep up the excellent work on the videos.
I have a 2215b that will not power up. I replaced the power switch but it still won’t power up. Which board should I begin replacing parts first in order to get power up?
you say the heatsink can't come in contact with the transistor silicon insulater with compound on the back. You mount your transistors put a screw through the heat sink into the metal that holds the heat sink of the transistors to the heat sink. Isn't the screw against the heatsink then goes on the transistors that's a dead short. The screw against the heat sink then through to the metal that holds the transistors in place
I came back to watch this video a second time, take notes and screen shots. This is an extremely helpful layman's guide; you managed to convey a complex job in a way that a hobbyist can follow easily...which is not so easy! THANK YOU. I find your clarity of delivery/message, helpful presentation slides, and general attitude toward the entire process...a breath of fresh air. WELL DONE!!!!!!
Thanks so much for this. I've restored about 25 Marantz receivers in the last 5 years ( and i'm no professional , just a hobbyist ) and I wish I had this basic info when I started. I stumbled onto this by accident. Over those last 5 years I always thought to myself " why doesn't someone do an explainer video for the basic Marantz restoration"! Great job my friend.
Spectacular video. I have a 2252b I've been planning for years to restore but was too intimidated. After watching this I feel more confident in what to do for a proper job. Thanks so much for doing this.
What an excellent video for hobbyists who want to start with restorations. Thank you for sharing your knowledge!
I commend you for taking the time to provide this video for all of us. It takes a lot to put yourself out there and give us your experiences in upgrading / restoring this equipment. I admire anyone that can not only do this kind of thing but also accept the fact that there are going to be those that criticize your techniques. There is a learning curve in all of this and I'm sure you learn just as much from our feedback as we learn from you. Keep up the good work. You are helping and encouraging many of us out there that enjoy this hobby.
I had this exact receiver back in 1996! I was in an electronics class and a music shop would donate broken equipment, we would fix it in the lab and auction it off for class trips and parties. Marantz and Sansui amps are mostly the same as far as the circuitry and yes, they absolutely rock! Most problems we came across in these types of amps were output transistors and resistors in the output stage. great video!
In my many years of experience. I rarely recap items because in most cases they don't need it. Not only that, there could be hundreds of caps in some things(expensive). In CRT Tv's I only replace the ones that are stressed by heat, high voltage, or are obviously leaking. I leave the rest in if they test good. As a rule, capacitors usually don't fail unless they are backwards, cooked by heat, or operate at a voltage that is to close to the max rating. I have seen some that were actually operated higher than max voltage spec that was a part sourcing mistake during design , or assembly. I don't replace transistors, or diodes unless they are actually bad. The pitfalls of replacing some transistors is they will be equivalents and may mess up the bias of a circuit, creating unwanted distortion. Some actually can't be found because they were made for motor drive circuits like in old 45 jukeboxes. Realistically most audio equipment is not turned on 24/7 at max volume and won't see abuse. Trust me, home audio equipment will never see the abuse that arcade equipment gets. The most important thing about fixing items is you should make notes about what was done and when; and leave a record in or on the item with a sticker.
I'm sorry, but you're an idiot. Capacitors fail. Period. Over time, EVERY electrolytic capacitor will fail. You're that lazy service tech that likes to have customers bringing the same device back to him again...and again...and again...just to replace one thing at a time as it fails. I sure hope you aren't charging customers for your "skills"
Ah yes, the famous pinkish control box under the seeburg juke box... lol, not so good memories about that one..
This is the best tutorial I've seen in years. You went over all aspects and explained it very well!
I bought a used Marantz receiver from a friend circa 1979-80 when I was 22-23. I always thought Marantz was the best quality and I loved their ads. And they were the best looking receiver IMO, with the blue lights and wood case. It was only a few years old, but my friend wanted to upgrade. I think I paid him around $100 for it. I used it for about 20 years, mostly to run a turntable off of it and of course for the radio. I also had a cassette and even a reel-to-reel hooked up to it at different times. About 20 years I ago - as the way I listened to music had changed significantly - the Marantz was collecting dust, so I gave to Goodwill. I didn't think it had much value. It was old technology, I thought, though it worked perfectly when I got rid of it. I had no idea that collecting and restoring vintage receivers from the '70s was a thing.
I collect and sell vintage hi-fi gear, both tube and transistor. Also speakers - Altec, JBL, Infinity, Quad ...
1st timer. Been an analog man a long time. you have become like my high school teacher, from Germany, who tried to make me understand how it works. I was not a learner then. Thanks for the knowledge.
I know just enough to get myself in trouble when trying to work on my marantz amplifier. The way you draw it on paper is definitely a way I can understand it. I have referenced this video many times. Seriously thanks for all the hard work you put into your videos.
I know you don't take projects but if you ever change your mind I have a Tandberg TR-2060 that needs to be repaired. I think that would be a fun video to watch.
Brother, you are giving my inner electrician confidence! If only everything in life were so step through informative.
Tip: The "obsolete" information described at 14:00 is far from obsolete, but in fact, very relevant. I recently had a Pioneer SX-780 that I had to do an alignment on to correct a stereo decoding issue, that replacing components didn't resolve.
You will find all the test equipment listed on that page on the workbench of every professional.
At 15:41, "EQ" is used to denote RIAA Equalization. It implements standard compensation circuitry to maintain tonal balance by stereo manufacturers in conjunction with the vinyl record industry.
You’re timing is impeccable because I acquired a 2215b a couple of days ago with one channel not producing sound. Will be ordering a prepackaged restoration kit and attempting my first complete recap. Thanks for uploading.
I own several Marantz units and you've convinced me to try a restoration on my 1070. Thank you.
15:38 The phono preamp is likely called an EQ amp as it removes the RIAA equalization from a record applied during recording. The curve is applied to reduce bass and allow the grooves to be more closely spaced, reduces noise (similar to Dolby NR), and reduces potential damage to the grooves during playback.
Top chap, this is the easiest to follow vintage Marantz video on TH-cam and just what I have been waiting for before attempting to recap my 2230 A+++++++++
I'll be walking through a 2230 on this channel board by board soon :)
@@AHFixIt That would be great, I look forward to it very much as you have simplified things ln this video that are achievable for the novice to attempt, it's now not so daunting a task as it looks, thank you very much.
Thank you! I’m a novice and am about to get into my 4240 to do what you show in the video here. I would be interested in the brand/part number of the replacement diodes, transistors, and capacitors you replaced where original parts weren’t available. I suspect many of them will appear in the 4240.
Great video, relatable and easy to follow and understand. Again, thank you!
You would make an excellent teacher. I just bought a SR1000 and there are some problems that I need to address this video will help me understand what I am looking at. I have been binge watching your videos before I start working on it I am not restoring just want to fix some issues. Great videos love them.
This is a great reference video for Marantz receiver rebuilds and some aspects can relate to other manufacturers as well. Thanks for taking all the time to put this together. For someone like myself just getting into working on my own stereo components this will be very helpful.
Awesome video!!! The only thing I would add is that I would go some general cleanup with some isopropyl alcohol to remove they dirt that seems to be everywhere on the top side, and any residual flux that might create issues in the future.
I just did my first recap. I only did the power supply, power output board, tone board and coupling caps. This is a 50 year old Sherwood S-7100A. I found that the two 47uF caps both had a lead break off trying to desolder them. I noticed that these leads were both corroded so I figure those caps were going bad. Most of the other caps I removed all measured more than 20% higher than they should have. I mat go back to recap the rest of it based on these findings.
Fantastic video… lots of videos on restoration but I really appreciate someone who gets it.
I am amazed by your work young man. You keep it up, you make me feel like there is hope for the future. My Son and his friends are very much like you. My son loves Problems to solve with engines or cars ect. I’m still running a Marantz 2325 with Klipsch K-Horns M&K sub on A, B speakers are Klipsch Belle’s in back. It still Rocks after all these years. I’m giving lots of thought to Restoring the Marantz, having it done, as it would kill me to ruin it. But I want it not just Restored but Updated ! I want it to sound as good as possible if I am going to have it done. You keep up the good work !
You are a rock star. So much overview and so many granular questions answered. THANK YOU.
Thanks for going to the trouble of putting all of this info in ONE place!
Love this guy. Highly competent. A man of integrity. Thank you for this.
From years of doing this often the scratchy comes back and you have to keep messing with the sliders and volume controls. A lot of it is dust and carbon. It could be a week later and it comes back. So, I've been thinking that before lubing those up to get a small air compressor and blowing out the control. It won't damage anything but the grit and the dust might get blown out and then you can add your lube. For years I'd have the ends of some controls get scratch and have to tell folks to shut if off and rotate them through their full motions a few times and it would go away...but the air compressor seems like an extra step to prevent it come coming back. You can get spiders and webs and corrosions and dust in the oddest places so just a thought
it actually works quite well to add contact cleaner to losen everything up and then blow out with a compressor
i used to be a pc repair tech - i have the PC vac Blower i use it on all pots after washing them - blows out the crud, then i do it again till the ots and switchs work.
An absolutely epic video! It held my attention! I watched the whole thing without skipping, but I ran it a bit higher in playback speed. A reference-quality presentation, for certain! Mahalo!
Excellent video. Now I know why they charge so much if you have to take it to a repair shop to fix it! I might just stick to changing the RCA cable on my Kenwood turntable. My Marantz 2220b just distorts once in a while, when I play records or reel to reel tape players.
Well done sir, I've been searching for years for a good explanation of these broken down. Thanks you.
The matched pair technique is brilliant!
Your videos are easy to watch and helpful. I have enjoyed many of them as I have restored Pioneer and Marantz receivers. Thanks!
Man, this was exactly what I was looking for!!! Thank you so much for your time doing this video and congratulations for your work!!!
My first receiver was a Marantz 2270 which I bought new from Rabson's on 57th St. NYC in 1976. Cost $389 + tax. I used it until 1978 when I stupidly sold it for $180. By then I was into separate components - an AGI 511 preamp and a GAS Son of Ampzilla powering DCM Time Windows. I should have kept the 2270 to use as an FM tuner.
Very nicely done and laid out video, with clear and easy to follow instructions, excellent
This video is very well done. I Grew up in the era when these machines were the cats ass and they still are really. Marantz, pioneer, Kenwood, Sansui. All great gear. I will likely have to keep my eye out for a deal on one. I donno if I have the gumption to do a full restore such as this but your video will certainly serve as an excellent invaluable primer & guide for the job if I ever do. Thx for making video AND sharing ! 👍👍
Excellent video. Must have taken ages to produce. I'm strictly amateur and don't have near the dexterity or patience to refurbish my 2270 (which has been partially restored over the years), but it will give me a working knowledge of what to talk about with my local service shop when it goes on the bench this summer. Walking through the service manual was great. I like your attitude of "some things matter, some things don't."
Thanks for the great video! I am not in the electronics restoration but now I feel a bit more confident in it.
Right on! You did a good Job in presenting this. I will be watching Sections again as I saved this video.
Thank you for taking the time to make this video. You make things easier on us average Joe´s! :)
All the best to ya from Sweden!
thanks a lot for your video! I am very glad that you showed me all what matters as I am currently restoring a Marrantz 2225 L. I will start with the power supply today ;-) Kind regards from Germany!
Great video. I wish you put parts for each model together and sell them as complete package.
Hi Aidan,
Very good video and super tips and tricks ( ID the audio path).
Would love the Hakko fr-301 - just not sure if I can justify the $230.00 expense??
Thanks again for what your doing!!
Regards,
Jack
P.S. Seems like the Marantz service manuals are laid out very well, compared to some others.
Thanks! The FR-301 is worth every penny plus some if you play around with this stuff regularly. I got by with the spring-loaded pen for years before I upgraded. If you find yourself spending a lot of time with the pen, you've seen me use the Hakko in my videos. You can do the math to see how much time you'd save and decide if it's worthwhile for you.
great video of restoring a marantz. I'm looking for one now' Love the Marantz sound'
I have a 2325 that I need to restore. Will come back for reference. Keep up the good work, thank you!
A very quick test on any PN junction device like a bipolar transistor or diode in circuit is to use the diode check function on your meter. Make sure the power is off. Some meters don't have this function. Get one that does. It is your friend. I am able to verify 99% of the transistors on a PCB stuffed with discretes in about 10 minutes. That mode does the following, It sources a small amount current out the positive probe that returns via the negative probe, Then it measures the voltage of the positive probe with respect to the negative probe. A typical PN junction will read 0.6v base to emitter, and a little higher, base to collector. One has to get the meter leads properly polarized. For NPN types, the red lead needs to be on the base, then walk the black lead alternately between the other two leads. Both times the meter should read ~0.6volts. My fluke gives a short beep when ~ 0.6 is achieved. For a PNP, the black lead is positioned on the base and red is walked back and forth. Even when you don't know if the transistor is PNP or NPN, within 1 minute you can try every combination. There will be no beep collector to emitter. So a good transistor has two beep combos. All other combos of two leads on a three pinned device do not beep, or....beep continuously indicating a short between the the two leads you are currently probing. This is a typical failure mode for semiconductor devices BTW. Another failure mode is no beep at all which indicates no PN junction detected at all, open This applies to 99% of the transistors in a circuit. It doesn't work if there's is a resistor of low impedance, say less than 300 ohms, between the base and the other pin. This shunts the test current. This test works for diodes too. - just two cases. Only beeps on one. This is the first test I do after a thorough inspection. It saves me beaucoup test time even before turning on the power making me a competitive fixit guy.
This was a real big help. You did a great job explaining everything. I learn so much and will help in many other projects. Thank you!!
Thank you, i finally understood concretely a capacitive coupled amo vs a Direct-coupled amp
What a fantastic video. Great information, it's obvious you put a lot of effort into it. Great job!
This is such a phenomenal video! So so informative! Thank you!
Day 1: "Swap out all the transistors."
Day 2: "Don't blindly substitute transistors, here's what went bad..."
Day 3: "How to do it right this time..."
Day 4: "Here's a new video on what went wrong with replacing the transistors"
at least he shows his mistakes
Takes a good person to share his oversights.
@@Stereosandotherfun I totally agree and in electronics it's often a valuable learning exercise, but repeating the same only goes to demonstrate a fundamental misunderstanding of the concept. Repeating the mistake doesn't prove anything.
Complete and detailed presentation Aidan
At 2:11:58 you show the amplifier board after restoration and it looks like you put audio quality KA caps in the C705 and C706 positions. I don't think the audio signal runs through those caps. The [left channel] audio path should come through J701, through C701, R703, H701, H703, and then split between H707 and H709, and finally H711 and H713 output transistors. If I am mistaken, please let me know. Thanks AH!
New at this hobby. Is there a big difference between KSA992FTA , FATA, AND FBU. Not sure what my MAR.2252 should use in tone board for 2SA 722 replacement. Thanks !
They have different gains. It might matter, it might not. Can't say for sure until it's tested in circuit. Ideally you test the gain of the 2sa722 and see what it is, then buy the closest 992 to whatever gain that is. Check the datasheet to see the gain ranges of each one.
Back in the seventies, getting through high school, and getting on with college .. I was “poor as hell”, and couldn’t afford a Marantz (and anything else any good). But, sure wanted one. However, I was given a non working stereo tube amp by Silvertone. I was able to fix it, and made do for a very long time. I wish I didn’t just throw it away 40+ years ago (very valuable collectors item now), when I got my Scott system …
Hi, thank you so much for the video. I'm about to restore my father's Marantz 2270. Before even touch anything, I'm investigating a lot, so this info is really great. I don't know if you ever read this, but I'm struggling to remove the knobs for treble and mid on my 2270 because they are not easy to get off, the volume or the other simple buttons were easy. In the 2270 the treble and mid are like 2 on 1 knob, I really don't want to damage anything, so, maybe could you provide some advice? Thank you!
Hair blow dryer or heat gun carefully
Wow great job I'm very impressed. I'm starting a restoration of a mr255. My father's old amp.
Thanks so much, i was able to follow your drawing of the symbolic schematic.
Brother...thank you so much for this in depth video. Respect.
Hi, it seems HiFi Engine has closed its books and won't let anyone else join, is there anywhere else you recommend for Marantz Service Manuals. There was an ElectricTanky but that doesn't have a huge data base and sometimes only has a schematic.
I love your channel and easy explanations.
Thanks for taking the time to make these great tutorials. Cheers, Darren, Hobart, Tasmania, Australia.
Thanks for the video, very informative. I have a 2235b and a 2265b. I'd like to know what the "b" stands for. Thanks again.
Do you have a video where you show how to cut wires in order to remove any board in the receiver? I have a Marantz 4220 that is missing a Phono board. I bought the P200 board off ebay- Do I have to solder those wires back? How do you know which wires to go which metal pins?
Excellent tutorial, very well articulated! Can you tell me what camera you used to do this recording? thanx.
It's a Canon 80D
@@AHFixIt Thank you. BTW Hifiengine is no longer allowing sign ups. 😖Do you have a link for the service manual for a 2270 by chance?
Love your videos! I have some questions - do you have a website?
I think I've mentioned once before (maybe not) - go to your dentist and ask them to save the old dential pics for your, rather than throwing them away. They are way better than those cheap ones at the grocery store, these are the real deal and hard to break.
Anyway, they are great for scraping that glue off in tight spots, and getting under legs for a nice pull. Just don't think about how many gross mouths they've been in.
But seriously, once you start using them, you'll think "why didn't I do this years ago"
Love it! Greetings from Ontario Canada!
Wow, thank you for producing this video, you did an awesome job and I, just like many others, certainly appreciate it! Great job! A+
PS: When you finished rebuilding that unit, did you adjust the bias? Just curious.
Also don't fart around measuring if it's safe just take a clip lead and short it out won't hurt a think and will discharge any cap or even a screw driver. If you have a good cap checker with leakage you can check many to see if indeed they are bad as it's hard to find some of the bigger ones with the right form factor.
So you made a comment about it being muffled and distorted. That's how mine sounds. I found mine and my grandfather's garage and it is clean. But I'm having a problem with the sound. I thought maybe it was the volume knob but it's not I'm not quite sure and could use your advice on this
Should I run some contact cleaner through it?
Nice video, but why are you replacing all those resistors ?
Some semi conductors are more failure prone than other, but as someone else wrote, I don't replace transistors unless they're bad or noisy, and I usually put a better, newer replacement. As for the diodes, it's the same thing, I don't replace any unless they're bad, or if the manufacturer issued a revision. One notable exception is the sony V-fet integrated, in which the double junction diodes can cause a catastrophic failure of the output transistors, but these amplifier are in another league than a marantz receiver and unless you know what you're doing, you might want a professional to do it right. These transistors aren't made anymore and are very expensive WHEN they come up on ebay. As for the recap, it depends on how the device is performing. If you want to do it, you can, I don't do it unless it's necessary, or in older tube equipment with paper in wax/oil capacitors that become unstable and leaky. I'm an electronic technician with 40 years of experience.
Hey there
Thanks a million times for sharing that priceless knowledge.
I own quite a few vintage receivers, walkmans, cd players etc... I've bought a lot of gear to try and start servicing some of this fine stuff but what I definitely lack currently is... Parts ! So Would you be so kind as to tell me what parts i should start with ? My gear is the usual Pioneer sx's, Sony str, Sansui 1 digit, 3, digit and the likes so i know there's tons of capacitors and transistors they have in common, now all i need is a bunch of parts to cover most grounds as far as basic servicing is concerned.
I'm thinking batches of common transistors and capacitors that would got me covered.
Hope i'm being clear here, English is not my mother tongue.
Thanks in advance. And Thanks again for the time and effort you put in to present us with all the knowledge. 🙏
Have you seen this video? It might help you: th-cam.com/video/p9cRi99sM-g/w-d-xo.html
I had to teach myself to gather in moderation. I learned the hard way that just because you refurb something and put value in it. It does not mean others will fairly compensate you for it, or worse you get stuck with a supply of equipment not everyone wants. Cd players are a crapshoot if the laser fails. I realistically could repair everything if parts could be had, but technology pushers want you to buy their current fad gadgets instead.
Great stuff !! Accidently hit dislike but then changed....You did everyone a great service !!
Thank you!! I will watch it again. 😉
I wish you would do a flow chart like that for my Realistic STA 2000 (D) receiver. I would like to know how the boards are designed and connected. I have a friend who might replace the capacitors and bench test the boards. Where would I find a schematic? Hi-Fi Engine is not accepting new members due to abuse. I cannot download a manual.
Another great video. So helpful, thanks you!
Amazing work , I just bought a 2226b with no signal in right channel I'm going to follow your steps to try to find out the issue, in your huge experience what you think is the common problem of this issue? Greetings from Mexico 🇲🇽
Dirty controls
Thanks for putting all this helpful information in a video. Best regards!!
man!!! this is absoluteley awesome!
Wow, GREAT video and explanations.. I have a Marantz 2275 and my right speaker is lower and not as many high's as the left ? What do you think the cause? Any help would be great.. Thank You.. JoSoFo
wow this tutorial really help me to fix my marantz amp... 🎉
I enjoy watching your videos!
Excellent informative video! Thank you for doing this!
Great vid & an incredible amount of info!
Looking to get a couple of Marantz restorations done and I now have an idea of what the technician will/should be doing and where my $ is going to.
Great video!
Thanks a lot.
Regarding the tuner board recap.
Did it ever fixed a tuner for you?
I wonder if recap a tuner board can fix a non-working tuner in vintage receivers.
Or maybe help improve the signal reception strength, solve the stereo problems etc...?
(I know that sometimes when tuner doesnt work in stereo, but it work in mono)
You can't ever expect a blind recap to fix something. That's why I say you need to find the root cause of the issue first, then you can recap.
@@AHFixIt i know, but exactly as you said, i have quite much knowledge & experience In all boarss except the tuner.
So this is why i asked wehther replace the capacitors may solve tuner issues (luckilly?)
Now.. i know that you may say it's possible,but i want to know if it happened to you already?
I would just use electrolytic caps in the signal path. Also use a bamboo skewer for removing the glue. The wima film caps sound ruff to me.
Need help! I have a 2270 marantz, was working fine and just stopped making sound. Unit turns on but no sound. I changed the relay capacitors . Now the relay clicks right away when I turn unit on, not 3 seconds after turning on. Can you help
Fantastic video, just like all of your others and a valuable resource for all of us noobs. Quick question though, I have a Sansui 6060 that I'd like to restore, but most of the component leads have dark black tarnish that is preventing contact of my multimeter probes. Have you come across this issue and how would you deal with it? Remove the components and clean all of the leads or just replace them all?
With the unit turned off, you can carefully scrape that stuff off with a pocket knife or x-acto blade. Otherwise try to measure at the joint from the back of the board
@@AHFixIt Thank you for the reply. It is greatly appreciated. I did wonder about testing from underneath, but it's so much easier to see what I'm connecting to from the top, lol. I know I'll have to do it eventually though, so I guess I should just get to it. Thanks again for the reply and keep up the excellent work on the videos.
I have a 2215b that will not power up. I replaced the power switch but it still won’t power up. Which board should I begin replacing parts first in order to get power up?
Awesome video!
Hold up, how did that fire up with all that corrosion on the board?
Super cool. Thanks!
Don't wanna sound rude, but it's pretty obvious why the phono preamp is labelled "Eq"! Never heard of RIAA Equalization?!
your microphone is on point !!
Question: any leads for a 1550 or 1520 am antenna bar? Where can i find one of these? Thanks for the time!
you say the heatsink can't come in contact with the transistor silicon insulater with compound on the back. You mount your transistors put a screw through the heat sink into the metal that holds the heat sink of the transistors to the heat sink. Isn't the screw against the heatsink then goes on the transistors that's a dead short. The screw against the heat sink then through to the metal that holds the transistors in place
The mounting screw goes through an insulated bracket that pushes the transistor against the heatsink.
Nice receiver and nice job
Great video! Thank you 🙏🏼
my dad had one now it is mine i love it