Back again........ So Doctors Hill is one of those stages I absolutely love, a 5 min 50 sec run is my Group A WRX time. Tried a quick/basic setup in the Yaris and got a 5.30, 24th overall. Then switched to your preferences. It worked out about 2 seconds, per sector slower, with a lot more oversteer to worry about. I know and agree with your tutorial videos that weight transfer is the key to fast times, but too much time seemed to be wasted trying to get the body movement to settle before making the next input. Tweaked my setup and got a theoretical time of 5.27.5 (no clean runs) Give this a try if you get a chance as it should work really well for the smooth stages of NZ and the high speed sections. Alignment, 0.40 for the rear toe, rest the same as yours. Braking, same but a 62% bias. Diffs, Massive changes. Front D 26%, B 34%, P 61.25nm Rear D 35, B 17, P 70nm. This allows you to just point the front wheels in the direction you want to go and send it under power or braking. Very minimal steering inputs required and you can be on the power earlier in a corner and leave braking till later on the straights and still make the apex easily. Suspension, found your setup very floaty and oversteer biased so you spend too much time sideways or controlling slides. Damping, Front and rear slow, Slow 4, Fast 2, split 0.52m/s, bound 4. Having the slow bump stiffer than fast gives you a lot more control in the lower speed sections. Dropping the fast a couple of notches allows for the jumps/bumps at speed so the car remains stable. Bound should be similar to slow bump to control the extension of the shock correctly. Suspension, Front 34, 95, 37.4 Rear 36, 95, 33. Flat and stable. Gears, this stage allows for high speeds so i run 0.300, 0.440, 0.570, 0.775, 0.960 and 0.220 final drive. Should allow over 205km/h on the fast sections and a good spread for the corners. Edit, tried this same setup on the Ford Puma. Needs -0.30 front toe and 0.30 rear. Slightly taller final drive too helps. Soon as i get a clean run in with it, that will mean a Ford in the top 10 times globally. It actually handles really well in NZ.
I have tried your suggestion, and it is a very good setup. i did struggled to get it working the way you are able to do it. I think it may just be a difference in the way we approach our driving. Then again i will probably try it out again later and get it to work, I change the way i drive on a daily basis, it is starting to become a problem 😂
@@MikeyyRS probably the biggest thing I needed to get my head around is that for modern rally cars (and also this game design in many ways) going sideways/sliding a lot is slowing you down. The 90’s style of McRae fully sideways everywhere isn’t the fastest option. That’s why I go for a setup that’s very rear stable, use the front diff to initiate corner entry, setup the suspension/alignment to keep things flat and level so that minimal counter steering is needed. As much as I love doing the Scandinavian flick in real life with my Subaru, it’s not always needed in the game…..
No worries, yeah Brake pressure is subjective, i can't tell you what to have as everyone likes a different pressure for the brakes, i just for some reason like a lower pressure in New Zealand it is properly because I'm flat out all the time 😂
There s a thing i see people don't consider in the setups. Diffs preload doesn t work as the in game description. Pre load on low surfaces should be almost max and you should open a bit breaking and acc diffs. Preload in an LSD ensures that there is always some torque biasing happening even when there's no slip detected. The preload ensures that the LSD reacts quickly to any difference in wheel speeds, enhancing traction and stability, particularly during cornering or when one wheel loses grip. Too little preload can result in delayed response and reduced effectiveness, while too much preload can lead to excessive wear and harsh engagement.
In All honestly, for me with all the testing i have done, they don't make much difference in this game. Ive used every pre-load you can think off. I've had no pre-load when in reality you should have it maxed and ive gone faster over that stage then with how it should be. That could just be me though. What you say is 100% correct, But this game doesn't make much sense as we have signs that act like buildings and setups that shouldn't work but do. 👌
@@MikeyyRS yeah you right, i didn't think this is EA game 🤣 i havn't done a lot of tests, i have only tried "real setups" but i saw Skoda wrc2 goin 210+ km/h. Unreal
Yeah it is one of them and what we have to play, hopefully next year we get a game with a proper career mode with more immersion (that is why i only play other mods), and some changes to the setups like tire pressure, that is a big one for me.😂
@@MikeyyRS Think a lot of the diff setups can be linked to the suspension/body movement of the vehicle. If the body is unstable then having aggressive diffs will only make everything worse. If the car is super stable in corners, especially corner entry/turn in, then you can run very aggressive front diff braking % and preload.
Hoping to bring more WRC2 setups to you as i really did enjoy driving them making this video!
Rally cars are great
Perfect 👍
Back again........ So Doctors Hill is one of those stages I absolutely love, a 5 min 50 sec run is my Group A WRX time.
Tried a quick/basic setup in the Yaris and got a 5.30, 24th overall. Then switched to your preferences. It worked out about 2 seconds, per sector slower, with a lot more oversteer to worry about. I know and agree with your tutorial videos that weight transfer is the key to fast times, but too much time seemed to be wasted trying to get the body movement to settle before making the next input.
Tweaked my setup and got a theoretical time of 5.27.5 (no clean runs) Give this a try if you get a chance as it should work really well for the smooth stages of NZ and the high speed sections.
Alignment, 0.40 for the rear toe, rest the same as yours.
Braking, same but a 62% bias.
Diffs, Massive changes. Front D 26%, B 34%, P 61.25nm Rear D 35, B 17, P 70nm. This allows you to just point the front wheels in the direction you want to go and send it under power or braking. Very minimal steering inputs required and you can be on the power earlier in a corner and leave braking till later on the straights and still make the apex easily.
Suspension, found your setup very floaty and oversteer biased so you spend too much time sideways or controlling slides.
Damping, Front and rear slow, Slow 4, Fast 2, split 0.52m/s, bound 4. Having the slow bump stiffer than fast gives you a lot more control in the lower speed sections. Dropping the fast a couple of notches allows for the jumps/bumps at speed so the car remains stable. Bound should be similar to slow bump to control the extension of the shock correctly.
Suspension, Front 34, 95, 37.4 Rear 36, 95, 33. Flat and stable.
Gears, this stage allows for high speeds so i run 0.300, 0.440, 0.570, 0.775, 0.960 and 0.220 final drive. Should allow over 205km/h on the fast sections and a good spread for the corners.
Edit, tried this same setup on the Ford Puma. Needs -0.30 front toe and 0.30 rear. Slightly taller final drive too helps. Soon as i get a clean run in with it, that will mean a Ford in the top 10 times globally. It actually handles really well in NZ.
I have tried your suggestion, and it is a very good setup. i did struggled to get it working the way you are able to do it. I think it may just be a difference in the way we approach our driving. Then again i will probably try it out again later and get it to work, I change the way i drive on a daily basis, it is starting to become a problem 😂
@@MikeyyRS probably the biggest thing I needed to get my head around is that for modern rally cars (and also this game design in many ways) going sideways/sliding a lot is slowing you down. The 90’s style of McRae fully sideways everywhere isn’t the fastest option.
That’s why I go for a setup that’s very rear stable, use the front diff to initiate corner entry, setup the suspension/alignment to keep things flat and level so that minimal counter steering is needed. As much as I love doing the Scandinavian flick in real life with my Subaru, it’s not always needed in the game…..
Hello Mikeyy
i made the brakes a little stiffer at 2954 great setup 5.39 new sealand thanks erik
No worries, yeah Brake pressure is subjective, i can't tell you what to have as everyone likes a different pressure for the brakes, i just for some reason like a lower pressure in New Zealand it is properly because I'm flat out all the time 😂
There s a thing i see people don't consider in the setups. Diffs preload doesn t work as the in game description. Pre load on low surfaces should be almost max and you should open a bit breaking and acc diffs. Preload in an LSD ensures that there is always some torque biasing happening even when there's no slip detected. The preload ensures that the LSD reacts quickly to any difference in wheel speeds, enhancing traction and stability, particularly during cornering or when one wheel loses grip. Too little preload can result in delayed response and reduced effectiveness, while too much preload can lead to excessive wear and harsh engagement.
In All honestly, for me with all the testing i have done, they don't make much difference in this game. Ive used every pre-load you can think off. I've had no pre-load when in reality you should have it maxed and ive gone faster over that stage then with how it should be. That could just be me though. What you say is 100% correct, But this game doesn't make much sense as we have signs that act like buildings and setups that shouldn't work but do. 👌
@@MikeyyRS yeah you right, i didn't think this is EA game 🤣 i havn't done a lot of tests, i have only tried "real setups" but i saw Skoda wrc2 goin 210+ km/h. Unreal
Yeah it is one of them and what we have to play, hopefully next year we get a game with a proper career mode with more immersion (that is why i only play other mods), and some changes to the setups like tire pressure, that is a big one for me.😂
@@MikeyyRS Think a lot of the diff setups can be linked to the suspension/body movement of the vehicle. If the body is unstable then having aggressive diffs will only make everything worse. If the car is super stable in corners, especially corner entry/turn in, then you can run very aggressive front diff braking % and preload.