More than good enough for most things Randy. The difference on the pull and push is a clue to some lost motion in the thing but hell it's very good as is and cool as hell.
great gadget. Just idea from me, instead of taping on cariage handle, you could engage halfnut and smoothly drive cariage by rotating spindle. to eliminite jumpy needle.
For What It's Worth: when you move toward the headstock and get a different reading, have you tried giving the end of the slide a slight nudge? You might be getting a tiny bit of separation between the magnets when pulling on the slide. That could explain why the measurements tend to match up more closely when moving toward the tail.
I liked your idea so much - I have found an inexpensive scale which I hope to mount somehow... not sure whether I can do a magnet approach but will see. You set-up looks very promising and if I get the same it will be well adequate for my purposes I think. You did a nice job on the mount.
With the caliper, there is a sort of "backlash" when you zero it due to the alignment of the sensor. This could be up to a half thou, then there is the other potential half thou it can't resolve at the other end of a measurement. This assumes the sensor's native mode is imperial, and it likely isn't. Still, it's super accurate compared to trying to get by with little markings on the wheels, plus this compensates for the mechanical backlash in the lathe. Even at 6", it's probably still within a thou.
Randy I have a little Chicom Mill with the digital quill gage , and I get about the same reading as you are getting here . If I extend the quill 40 or 50 thou it gets more accurate , good test , Thank's !
Seems to be more accurate than the one I put on the quill on my mill. I still have to get a 3rd gage put on it to see if it is the dial on the wheel that is off or the digital scale. .001 over 1" is pretty consistent between just the scale and the dial on mine. I also have to look at cosine error if it isn't parallel to the quill travel.
I recall seeing a digital scale on the tail stock on one of the other Utube machinists lathe, can't remember who, but a search should find it.It may give you some ideas that you can run with
Hi Randy. Very nice project. I have 2 mills and a lathe and was always looking for cheap DRO. I did consider using the same kind of readout that you used here but really wanted an eye level display. I came across the I-Gaging readouts that are sold in the US and UK that have a display on the end of a 4' lead. These read in Imperial, Metric & fractions. Now being a pensioner and a bit of a cheapskate :-) I looked for the best deal. I found I could get these shipped from the USA including postage cheaper than buying them here. So I purchased 2 x 24" 4 x 12" & 4 x 8" and fitted them to all my machines. Now I have eye level readouts on all of them. Looking at them they could be fitted in the same way that you have fitted yours. BUT it gets better :-0 I found something called BLUEDRO which is a Bluetooth box that you can plug the leads into and with free software (from the app store) a 7" tablet, a big smartphone or an old bluetooth capable laptop you get a fully functioning DRO with all the capability of the expensive ones. If I recall correctly for my larger mill it cost me $175 approx to set it up with that system. It has worked very well for me. I need to get a Bluedro box for my mini mill and my lathe now. I have no connection to any of the companies that I purchased the items from. Try a TH-cam or Google search for I-Gaging, Bluedro & Yuristoys and all the info is available. Mr Pragmatic Lee has also done a video series on the fitting of this system. Also shop around for the best I-Gaging prices as they vary greatly. I got mine from Taylor Toolworks LLC via Ebay. Sorry for the long post but hopefully it will help someone looking for an eye level system. Looking forward to some more projects. regards from the UK
Thank you for all of the great info. I have eye level I -gaging on 2 axis of my Logan lathe, the quill of my drill press and one on the z axis of my mill. I am in the process of setting up a Blue-DRO of the Logan lathe, Al is sending me a unit as we speak. I find the units work very well. Thanks again.
Hi Randy, The rotational direction of the Earth affects the accuracy in that direction.... lol This is excellent accuracy for the Z axis or the tailstock, a thousand accuracy and repeat is better than just any requirement on parts lengths or drilling depth. Normally on a lathe, the most critical measures are specified for the X axis... This looks like it will do all you need it to do in the future.. ;) Cheers, Pierre
Thank you Pierre, right there with you. The next test I will stop the rotation of the earth for just a few minutes to test that theory. I will get video of it. Well within tolerance for just about everything. in the Z that is for sure.
Randy, the magnet flex when you pull toward the chuck. Like Arve said add a second magnet. that way it should be better in repeatability toward the chuck. Love your idea !
I believe you had more error when measuring with the Interapid indicators because of that pesky cosine error. They are test indicators because they are for comparitive measurments not direct reading. Looks like your setup is as good as they advertise the scale to be so I see no problem. If I didn't have a DRO I would likely copy it. :-)
I had the indicators set to minimize the cosine error, but still I think everything still within except-able tolerance for the hacking I do in the shop. Thanks Brian.
I was thinking about making up something like you made with the digital scale except don't use a digital scale on the mount you made use a laser scale.
Hello www.dropros.com/ Go to Library then find "Diameter mode Delema" see the above file doc The issue with any digital scale, is that that is has to move before the data can be shown on the display and depending on the resolution of the scale that distance varies against the dial type. So depending on how accurate your machining is determines the resolution of the scale you choose to use Cheers
i have like 5 of them ans did put one on my tail stock but if you do put one on your tailstock make sure it can be removed easy iv had times were it was in the way or just didnt have the movment that i needed. but i can tell ya the .0005 repeat is bull shit as the batterys start to get low they will lose a bit here and there so i would not count on more then a 001 repeat just for ref. i may have a video of the tail stock one on my channel but if not and you would like to see it send me a message and ill post a video of it my channel is (turnmaster)
.001 in 6 inches is more that enough for most work. They seem to be pretty good on repeatability. Like most electronics with batteries, got watch'em when they are low. Thanks for the great comment.
This is what I used. www.amazon.com/iGaging-35-780-AccuMarking-Digital-Marking/dp/B01M3P3K69/ref=lp_2593869011_1_14?srs=2593869011&ie=UTF8&qid=1532357601&sr=8-14
I don´t believe those dial indicators are any good for measuring travel. If the angle of the pin is exactly 90 degrees to the direction of travel, you may get a good reading, but only for a very short distance. You have now changed the pin angle and sine-errors will manifest. Use push pin dials that go through the body of the dial.
That said, I will still trust your setup (digital) more than the travel dials. You still have to align those 90 degrees in two dimensions to get a sine free reading, also they may pop in and out of imperfections in the cast iron slide. Love your setup. The inherent parallelism of the ways to the slide removes any worries regarding angle.
Thanks for sharing. I'm making a woodworking jig using a vernier as a DRO and this video probably saved me some headaches later on.
Glad I could help!
Never saw any problem with this build , Thumbs up Randy , Great job ..
That's good to go for me. The accuracy on your test trials is way beyond my capabilities for what I do.
Yep for sure. Thanks Tony.
More than good enough for most things Randy. The difference on the pull and push is a clue to some lost motion in the thing but hell it's very good as is and cool as hell.
Thanks John. I to think it will work fine.
Brilliant idea, Randy and very well executed. This is just what my old South Bend heavy ten needs
Thanks
great gadget. Just idea from me, instead of taping on cariage handle, you could engage halfnut and smoothly drive cariage by rotating spindle. to eliminite jumpy needle.
I would say that's good to go, I have the same set up on my tail stock quill and use it all the time!
Oh yeah all good. Thanks again for the pics.
I love the idea, now we need accurate scales cheaper than they are now.
Thanks Steve, this scale is pretty accurate and big numbers.
For What It's Worth: when you move toward the headstock and get a different reading, have you tried giving the end of the slide a slight nudge? You might be getting a tiny bit of separation between the magnets when pulling on the slide. That could explain why the measurements tend to match up more closely when moving toward the tail.
I may I will check that.
I liked your idea so much - I have found an inexpensive scale which I hope to mount somehow... not sure whether I can do a magnet approach but will see. You set-up looks very promising and if I get the same it will be well adequate for my purposes I think.
You did a nice job on the mount.
Works great, Thanks Chris .
That turned out really nice.
Thanks Ken.
With the caliper, there is a sort of "backlash" when you zero it due to the alignment of the sensor. This could be up to a half thou, then there is the other potential half thou it can't resolve at the other end of a measurement. This assumes the sensor's native mode is imperial, and it likely isn't. Still, it's super accurate compared to trying to get by with little markings on the wheels, plus this compensates for the mechanical backlash in the lathe. Even at 6", it's probably still within a thou.
Yep and most length tol. is 10 to 15 thou anyway. Thanks Tony
Randy I have a little Chicom Mill with the digital quill gage , and I get about the same reading as you are getting here . If I extend the quill 40 or 50 thou it gets more accurate , good test , Thank's !
Thanks for the info John.
I like it Randy, good job
Thank you Terry.
It would be nice to have one for the cross feed.
I use this everyday, works fantastic. ThanksJohn.
Good video as always. Waiting for quill model.
Coming soon, started on a design last night. Thanks Mike.
Seems to be more accurate than the one I put on the quill on my mill. I still have to get a 3rd gage put on it to see if it is the dial on the wheel that is off or the digital scale. .001 over 1" is pretty consistent between just the scale and the dial on mine. I also have to look at cosine error if it isn't parallel to the quill travel.
Over all this is quite accurate enough for drilling holes and the carriage on the lathe.
I recall seeing a digital scale on the tail stock on one of the other Utube machinists lathe, can't remember who, but a search should find it.It may give you some ideas that you can run with
Oh there are several out there. Always fun to make up your own. Thanks Les.
Hi Randy. Very nice project. I have 2 mills and a lathe and was always looking for cheap DRO. I did consider using the same kind of readout that you used here but really wanted an eye level display. I came across the I-Gaging readouts that are sold in the US and UK that have a display on the end of a 4' lead. These read in Imperial, Metric & fractions. Now being a pensioner and a bit of a cheapskate :-) I looked for the best deal. I found I could get these shipped from the USA including postage cheaper than buying them here. So I purchased 2 x 24" 4 x 12" & 4 x 8" and fitted them to all my machines. Now I have eye level readouts on all of them. Looking at them they could be fitted in the same way that you have fitted yours. BUT it gets better :-0 I found something called BLUEDRO which is a Bluetooth box that you can plug the leads into and with free software (from the app store) a 7" tablet, a big smartphone or an old bluetooth capable laptop you get a fully functioning DRO with all the capability of the expensive ones. If I recall correctly for my larger mill it cost me $175 approx to set it up with that system. It has worked very well for me. I need to get a Bluedro box for my mini mill and my lathe now. I have no connection to any of the companies that I purchased the items from. Try a TH-cam or Google search for I-Gaging, Bluedro & Yuristoys and all the info is available. Mr Pragmatic Lee has also done a video series on the fitting of this system. Also shop around for the best I-Gaging prices as they vary greatly. I got mine from Taylor Toolworks LLC via Ebay. Sorry for the long post but hopefully it will help someone looking for an eye level system. Looking forward to some more projects. regards from the UK
Thank you for all of the great info. I have eye level I -gaging on 2 axis of my Logan lathe, the quill of my drill press and one on the z axis of my mill. I am in the process of setting up a Blue-DRO of the Logan lathe, Al is sending me a unit as we speak. I find the units work very well. Thanks again.
Again very nice Randy!
ATB, Robin
Thanks Robin for stopping in.
"Man with one watch knows what time it is." The more equal reading when moving left may have more to do with flex in the indicator stands.
That is very well possible. Thanks Bob.
Hi Randy,
The rotational direction of the Earth affects the accuracy in that direction.... lol
This is excellent accuracy for the Z axis or the tailstock, a thousand accuracy and repeat is better than just any requirement on parts lengths or drilling depth. Normally on a lathe, the most critical measures are specified for the X axis...
This looks like it will do all you need it to do in the future.. ;)
Cheers, Pierre
Thank you Pierre, right there with you. The next test I will stop the rotation of the earth for just a few minutes to test that theory. I will get video of it. Well within tolerance for just about everything. in the Z that is for sure.
Mm, actually! The earth is flat and does not rotate either. It must be something else! lol
Still looking good.
Thanks Harold.
If the magnets are too weak just stack two of them in the brass tube. it's going to increase the strength.
Good idea, I may just do that. Thank you Arve.
Randy, the magnet flex when you pull toward the chuck. Like Arve said add a second magnet. that way it should be better in repeatability toward the chuck. Love your idea !
Looks like its all working 100% and the variations are actually the carriage canting. Why else would the dials differ, right? Nice vid, thank you!
I use this unit all the time, works great. Thanks.
I believe you had more error when measuring with the Interapid indicators because of that pesky cosine error. They are test indicators because they are for comparitive measurments not direct reading. Looks like your setup is as good as they advertise the scale to be so I see no problem. If I didn't have a DRO I would likely copy it. :-)
I had the indicators set to minimize the cosine error, but still I think everything still within except-able tolerance for the hacking I do in the shop. Thanks Brian.
I don't think the quality of the work you do in the shop can be called hacking. :-)
Well thank you Brian.
Question, please. Are the inverted vee ways on your Clausing 90 degrees? I have the smaller 4900 series Clausing and they are 70 degrees.
I do not recall, I no longer have the lathe, I passed it to my son. Thanks for watching.
Did you ever slacken the gib tension on that digital scale? It might help with the push/pull discrepancies. Just a thought.
Yes I did just a small amount. Did not remeasure.
I'm rebuilding a HF combo mill lathe. I wish someone would offer that piece. I know that the point of DIY but I'm in a chicken or the egg situation
This ia a well worth it tool. Works great.
I was thinking about making up something like you made with the digital scale except don't use a digital scale on the mount you made use a laser scale.
I would like to see that. It would be very cool.
I really should wait and see the whole video I guess, eh?
Very nice Randy! That is something that almost everyone could use in one way or another. What was the build time for this one?
Most of the day, not counting the proto-type. Thanks.
Hello
www.dropros.com/
Go to Library then find "Diameter mode Delema"
see the above file doc
The issue with any digital scale, is that that is has to move before the data can be shown on the display and
depending on the resolution of the scale that distance varies against the dial type. So depending on how accurate your machining is determines the resolution of the scale you choose to use Cheers
Thanks Eldon. I love there stuff. I have a DROPROS on my mill and love it. I am saving up currently to get one for my big lathe.
Is there anyway to calibrate it
Not to my knowledge. Thanks.
i have like 5 of them ans did put one on my tail stock but if you do put one on your tailstock make sure it can be removed easy iv had times were it was in the way or just didnt have the movment that i needed. but i can tell ya the .0005 repeat is bull shit as the batterys start to get low they will lose a bit here and there so i would not count on more then a 001 repeat just for ref. i may have a video of the tail stock one on my channel but if not and you would like to see it send me a message and ill post a video of it my channel is (turnmaster)
.001 in 6 inches is more that enough for most work. They seem to be pretty good on repeatability. Like most electronics with batteries, got watch'em when they are low. Thanks for the great comment.
Where can I buy that gauge?
This is what I used. www.amazon.com/iGaging-35-780-AccuMarking-Digital-Marking/dp/B01M3P3K69/ref=lp_2593869011_1_14?srs=2593869011&ie=UTF8&qid=1532357601&sr=8-14
Be careful your mustache doesn't get caught up in the chuck
I don´t believe those dial indicators are any good for measuring travel. If the angle of the pin is exactly 90 degrees to the direction of travel, you may get a good reading, but only for a very short distance. You have now changed the pin angle and sine-errors will manifest. Use push pin dials that go through the body of the dial.
I spoke too early it seems... sorry.
That said, I will still trust your setup (digital) more than the travel dials. You still have to align those 90 degrees in two dimensions to get a sine free reading, also they may pop in and out of imperfections in the cast iron slide. Love your setup. The inherent parallelism of the ways to the slide removes any worries regarding angle.
This works very well, it is all I use now.