totally agree!!! The process of tensioning the belt is a little more complicated, certainly not like that. A distance of 4mm must be left between the roller lever and the tensioner surface.
@@astars1214hi. Could be slightly more specific when talking about the measurements for the 4mm. Literally a lot of head scratching going on and you’re the first comment to actually be helpful
@@GarethTrusslerIf you give me an email, I will send you the pdf with the official workshop operations. You will see that the procedure is somewhat more extensive than what is shown in the video, but it is the correct way. If you have any questions, tell me, I just changed the cylinder head and all its components on an Audi A3 1.9TDI ASZ successfully. I hadn't done it before, but with the workshop manual there is no chance of error!
This is wrong. There is a tool to lock the crankshaft at TDC which is way more precise than a notch on the damper and the camshaft pulley should be all the way clockwise and not anti clockwise like you did (or at least in the middle) so that when the tensioner is released the pulley moves a bit anticlockwise. Timing can be further adjusted perfectly using VCDS.
After turning the engine over twice and getting back on to the TDC notch, you need to pin the camshaft again to confirm it's accuracy of being correctly timed.
While starting my Polo 1.4 pd tdi amf. It started briefly then cut out displaying oil light. After multiple attempts found the timing belt stripped. Last attempt was just cranking at 200rpm before it stopped turning over. What sort of damage if any could have occured?
Thank you for replying. Car had done over 236k miles and drove pretty well. Would you recommend pulling head off to check valves or do you think I could drop another timing belt to see if it turns/runs? Tia.
The standard VW one is plastic due to if there is an issue the plastic one will just brake off, the metal one will lock and stop the pulley, which in turn stops the timing belt, which isn't going to end well.
They made the 1.9tdi up until 2009, i have a 1.9tdi, engine code is BXE, last of the 1.9 pd engine's, apparently they made them with longer Conrods. From there they changed the engine to 1.6 common rail if not 2.0 in TDI range.
Make sure to screw the nut on a little tight so it doesn't shoot out when you release the pin! I went to war with those until I figured out how to stop it from ruining my day.
From my experience of working on these cars for last 16years, the pd130 does not have this style of tensioner its has the 1 with the 6mm alen key wre u mannually tension it... This engine is deffo the pd115 not the pd130
@@Walid-ep1sju do know u can slam a ajm 115 into a asz 130 or the other way round, and evrthing will fit right 😂😂... only way to confirm it is to check on yhe block were the gearbox mounts to the block, the engine code is casted in the block.. som1 might have swaped a pd 115 in urs... ital still work... av done it myself
ATTENTION! THE BELT TENSIONER DOES NOT PRELOAD THIS, DON'T DO AS IN THIS VIDEO!
Is it just a damper because if its not pre loaded it won't tension
@@oli9067who is correct here? Why not pull the pin like he says?
totally agree!!! The process of tensioning the belt is a little more complicated, certainly not like that. A distance of 4mm must be left between the roller lever and the tensioner surface.
@@astars1214hi. Could be slightly more specific when talking about the measurements for the 4mm. Literally a lot of head scratching going on and you’re the first comment to actually be helpful
@@GarethTrusslerIf you give me an email, I will send you the pdf with the official workshop operations. You will see that the procedure is somewhat more extensive than what is shown in the video, but it is the correct way. If you have any questions, tell me, I just changed the cylinder head and all its components on an Audi A3 1.9TDI ASZ successfully. I hadn't done it before, but with the workshop manual there is no chance of error!
Its easy when the engine is out of the car but a whole different game in the car!
Yep totally, that engine mount and bracket is a real pain.
are you not meant to set the preload on the tensioner to 3-4mm??
4mm +-1
This is wrong. There is a tool to lock the crankshaft at TDC which is way more precise than a notch on the damper and the camshaft pulley should be all the way clockwise and not anti clockwise like you did (or at least in the middle) so that when the tensioner is released the pulley moves a bit anticlockwise. Timing can be further adjusted perfectly using VCDS.
Thanks for your comment, the pulley was set to the middle, from using that locking tool I find it sets the crack aux pulley to the middle.
absolutly
@@RestoDesignsnando placing in the middle is the most important, but there are bad explanations about it, generally
After turning the engine over twice and getting back on to the TDC notch, you need to pin the camshaft again to confirm it's accuracy of being correctly timed.
Do torque settings for Water pump, camchaft, etc and put some grease on the water pump O ring before fitting !
I’ve got a mk5 gt 2008 and the Cambelt tensiors gone do you think the engine will work when get the tensior,pump and cam belt done
Probably want some grease on that O ring for the water pump instead of slamming it in dry
PD130 goes down to 2003 i belive ive got a 2004 Fabia Vrs with this engine, great video though thanks for the help.
Goes back to 2002, came out late 2001 actually
Hi I have a pd 150 is this the same set up as that. With hydraulic dampener. Great video 👍👍
Love to know if it is as I have seat Leon 1.9 tdi pd150 arl block
I don't have to do anything to the tensioning pulley ? Just put it in, as it came out of a box ?
No please see the pinned content, I forgot to show you need to take up the play slightly then pull the pin.
a poli de cima ten marcacao 4z e a folga do tensor 4mm faltou
Can anyone help me, does anything know the part number of that black casing that goes behind the cambelt? Thanks
You said the old belt snapped. Was the engine/head rebuilt after that? Or did you just pit a new belt on...
This broke in a big way, all 8 valves and guides had to be replaced, unfortunately TDI's will at least bend 2 valves if you are lucky.
Good stuff g, so the water pump seals itself and doesnt need a gasket?
Thanks, Yes that is correct, it has a O ring seal.
@@RestoDesignsnando i really appreciate it, I’m changing my water pump, the belts and sparkplugs on my audi b7
Greetings from Venezuela! One question, friend, when the timing belt breaks, do the valves bend or not?
Unfortunately yes, sometimes all 8, at low engine speed maybe 1 or 2.
Yes it does in my case 7 out of 8 was damage
@@jasonsoobrayen1179 sorry to hear mate.
While starting my Polo 1.4 pd tdi amf. It started briefly then cut out displaying oil light. After multiple attempts found the timing belt stripped. Last attempt was just cranking at 200rpm before it stopped turning over.
What sort of damage if any could have occured?
Sorry to hear that dude, 100% bent valves, if you're lucky maybe only one, but of course check all 6 valves.
Thank you for replying. Car had done over 236k miles and drove pretty well. Would you recommend pulling head off to check valves or do you think I could drop another timing belt to see if it turns/runs? Tia.
Top video
Thanks 👍🏼
So you like the plastic water pump vs the metal I don't understand?
The standard VW one is plastic due to if there is an issue the plastic one will just brake off, the metal one will lock and stop the pulley, which in turn stops the timing belt, which isn't going to end well.
Do you know to put the engine on time On a ARX engine.
👍
Hi how many hours labour do you think would be involved for a competent mechanic to do this job, maybe 3 to 4? Thanks'
The book time is 2.5 hours. So anywhere between 2-3 hours.
@@RestoDesignsnando thanks!
They made the 1.9tdi up until 2009, i have a 1.9tdi, engine code is BXE, last of the 1.9 pd engine's, apparently they made them with longer Conrods.
From there they changed the engine to 1.6 common rail if not 2.0 in TDI range.
No Torque wrench for ANYTHING?.....
nope all done by feel.
those hydraulic tensioners are nothing but trouble
Make sure to screw the nut on a little tight so it doesn't shoot out when you release the pin! I went to war with those until I figured out how to stop it from ruining my day.
do you know if you can get rid of them by just putting a spring loaded one on
?
@@jameskealy8677 Are you talking about the serpentine belt now?
@@jameskealy8677 no you can't! The setup is different, i tried it myself!
Complete Wrong montage !
From my experience of working on these cars for last 16years, the pd130 does not have this style of tensioner its has the 1 with the 6mm alen key wre u mannually tension it...
This engine is deffo the pd115 not the pd130
I’ve got the pd 130 and it has this exact set up. Mine is the asz engine.
@@Walid-ep1sju do know u can slam a ajm 115 into a asz 130 or the other way round, and evrthing will fit right 😂😂... only way to confirm it is to check on yhe block were the gearbox mounts to the block, the engine code is casted in the block.. som1 might have swaped a pd 115 in urs... ital still work... av done it myself
my pd115 had the hydraulic tensioner my pd130 asz has manual tensioner