S2E40 Diesel maintenance isn’t so bad after all (Dominican Republic)
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 18 ก.ย. 2024
- There’s a lot of behind the scenes that I don’t show in this video, mostly information that I learned along the way, like… typically you start the motor and run it before you change the oil. I’ll probably change the oil again when I put the boat in the water, maybe. Maybe not. Other than that, the diesel maintenance is done!
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😀 Welcome to Sailing Artha 😀
Hi there, my name is Nicole, and my single-handed journey began in 2022 on a Columbia 26. It now continues on my new boat, a 28’ Bristol Channel Cutter named Artha (the name translates to “that which allows one to pursue her dream.”) I’m on a giant adventure of seeing the world and leaving it a better place! Follow me as I experience all the hard and fun times of this lifestyle. Thanks for watching, subscribing, and commenting.
⛵️Instagram: sailingartha
Read my creative work on www.NicoleDeme....
I've just learned of you Nicole . . I'm 65 years old and getting ready to get my first sail boat and live out the rest of my life on the sea . The only place in Earth where real freedom exists .
You keep on keep'in on girl !! 🙂
Hi Nicole. ALWAYS wet the rubber seal of canister filters before you fit them. NEVER fit them dry. Just dip a finger in clean oil and wipe it over the seal and then screw it on. Go well. X
Hello FRIEND You must put some oil on that seal of the oil filter!!!!! But you are brilliant!
TH-cam will sometimes throw you a video recommendation that’s completely off in left field compared to what you usually watch but sometimes what you get is amazing. Glad I caught your videos. You remind me so much of a girl I used to work with way back in the 90’s. We were best friends. We did everything together. Went to lunch every day, we car pooled, we went hiking all the time. But then she had an opportunity to start a new business and she left. I missed her so much. We had so much in common. Anyways. Nostalgia trip for me watching you work on that boat. She drove a Jeep and was always working on it. One of our coworkers owned a boat and we had to make an emergency trip to the lake to winterize it at lunch one day. A frost warning was coming. She and I rode in the back seat like a couple silly teenagers. Anyways. Best wishes and I’ll keep watching your progress.
Im amazed at your strength, resilience and determination. You should re name your boat, Blood Sweat & Tears. Youve certainly put all three into her. Well done 👍
I hope to see that Bristol on the water soon and see your new sailing adventure
When you change an oil filter , lubricate the new oil filter gasket . You can use the old oil , just rub a bit of oil on the new gasket .
it helps seal it when you tighten the new filter down .
I recently subscribed after watching your story on adventureman Dan. So beautiful and so talented. Good luck getting that awesome boat back in the water.
The kid is a grinder.
The reward will be epic.
Well done, Nicole
I'd suggest an impact for those hard to get bolts. You young lady are an inspiration. Id sail anywhere with you! I could only wish.
Good afternoon Nicole.
Every time you go to change the oil, make sure you have run the engine for about 30 minutes, this way the oil inside it begins to heat up and liquefy, it loses density, it is easier later once the engine is off you begin to extract oil .
P.S. You will have to buy a water and debris separator filter, which you will use by placing it in the mouth of the tank or in the drums. Never transfer fuel directly to the tank or drums without first placing this separator for the diesel that comes out of the pump.
Yoilp GL-21 filter
Yes A definite must have item. Diesel treatment is also a must !😊
I'm just gonna say this, you're so right on target here. I believe you need to treat that lump of metal like your most treasured possession. Learn to obsess over it eg battery, {extra rebuilt carb ready to install,} belts proper size, Make it habitual like feeding, talking to, and being affectionate to your dog. Always think about the list you just mentioned. Keep extra parts in a binical all their own. Water pump, ancillary systems, plugs, extra cables, automotive tool box full. Collect tubes of different sizes keep an extra alternator in that binacle. Don't bother with any significant others unless they also have the knack of treating your craft, this complex living home, your vessel, like their long lost loved one! Find a tallented mechanic you can trust! Glad your knee looks better. Write down every comment regarding engine maintenance in a log. Find a mechanic with whom you can share these thoughts and concerns. These comments on these subjects that's useful love real love. We worry about you.
It's a diesel
@@boooshes so no spark plugs etc
Si tubiste el motor fuera del barco, era entonces el momento idóneo de hacer todos estos trabajos, te hubiera resultado infinitamente más fácil.
More important with a diesel engine is a good battery & a spare starter motor! Keep the spare starter in a vacuum sealed bag x2.😊
A handy thing to have for the next round is small rubber strip to put between the strap and object to be removed. A small bit of bike intertube works great for it. it can add some"grab" if the tool wants to slip.
Happy Birthday! And congrats on the ever increasing subs you have.
The oil will come out easier and faster if engine is as hot as you can stand. looks like it was already warm in the cabin but maybe do it when it's chilly outside anyway good job!
You should look up the owners manual about what coolant you should use. Green and orange are made for different reasons and are chemically different. You should also put a touch of oil on the rubber seals.
Hello Nicole great videos stay strong..wish i was there to help.
On my first boat with the diesel Kubota Phasor V1903 I found a valve at the bottom of the oil pan so oil could gravity drain from the lowest point. I liked that so much that I modified (welded) the oil pan in my current D2-40 with the same feature.
Anything worth while will always have it’s struggles sister. Tears are ok to shed. Just makes your victories more sweet. Stay safe and keep up the good work. U r doing great….
Happy late B-day⛵⚓⛵🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🤙🏻🍻
Good job girl 👍
I see there are some giving you good advice on filter replacement and other things so, I won't repeat. I will only say you're doing very well considering where you began. That's always the measure........to see how far you've come ! That should give you a great mental reward. Good job !
Great job - cramped spaces - hot weather. FYI: Coolant - drain the entire system and refill (the coolant goes bad) ... when running, mark the lower level in the small expansion tank when cool ... and at temp when running. That will give you a range to observe for any ready-reference for leaks, etc. Zincs - change? Fuel/fuel tank - I think you changed the tank out didn't you. Air cleaner: Changed? Keep area well ventilated Spares: Keep plenty of filters, belts, etc - - - Emergency Fuel: I keep 10gallons on deck and made an emergency supply line in case the main system has a problem. Oh ... and don't forget the Captain Ron videos about engine maintenance, ship handling, anchoring, and safety!! All the best .......
Wrap rag on square end of 12" metric ruler with electrical tape ,use as scraper. Bucket of water with squegy use to wipe body to cool of.
Not going to read all the comments but new to the site. Next time, You need a breaker bar, or an piece of metal tubing to go on the end of your socket drive for leverage. Thanks for the content. I’m getting my boat prepped for the ICW then on to the keys. Best of luck.
Better yet get yourself a 18v 1/2" impact gun they are amazing at getting tough bolts loose. 😊
Also when putting bolts in use neverseze on the threads for later disassembly. Use pipe dope on all threaded water fittings.
Hi Nicole, I applaud you for all the work you have done on the boat. KUDO's !! My experience in replacing my Yanmar exhaust elbow a few times, I was never able to separate the elbow from the connector to the block and always ended up buying the manifold connection to the block, I think I paid 150$ for the elbow, connector and manifold. I put mine in a vice and even with a breaker part couldn't separate the parts. The exhaust heat over time makes the separation nearly impossible. I replace mine every 3 years to avoid backwashing water into the engine which can cause extensive damage. Great following, you are a great source of determination !!!
I appreciate how honest your videos are, you allow the world to see the honest struggles of all your projects and that's why we celebrate your victories with you. I'm not certain whether your Bristol Channel cutter has a Volvo or a Yanmar because I couldnt tell from the video but you can download a service manual and begin hording spare parts like belts, pumps, clamps and hoses. I'm confident that you'll grow to be a very competent mechanic on your motor in no time as you have become proficient with all the other sailboat related task.
watching this new vid of yours after working on my boat today 😁My new friend in the slip next to me has the same BCC. I'm trying to get him to follow you, but he’s a little tech challenged. Anyway, cool video as always!
I give you so much credit for learning all of the things you have. Always remember that learning is a process, and nobody does anything without trial and error. Your knowledge you are gaining by doing all of your projects on your own, and also looking to others for advice will be priceless while you are out sailing. Another good tip would be to get yourself a manual for your engine. It will give you all of the information you need for servicing your system. Good job. 👏 😊❤
It took me a while to discover that opening the oil filler cap lets air in so the oil drains quicker.
I suggest a workshop manual online, download/print and then put all in a cheap plastic sleeve folder.
Then put visible bookmarks/tabs on each section as you do each new job, for eg, "oil filter change"," oil type, quantity", "annode locations" or "maintenance schedule".
That last one is at the beggining of almost all Yanmar workshop manuals and is a great check list.
Couple more unsolicited tips probably given too late for tasks,
due to danger of introducing air blocks I would get myself some cheap plastic fuel hose clamping pliers (made for this purpose). They are great for when doing fuel filters or anytime there is a diesel line issue at sea. Then you can clamp input fuel line and output line of filter, and replace filter with bowl full of diesel and remove clamps. This means far less hand pumping at engine to get rid of air blocks in line.
If you are moving that engine (why?) I wouldnt touch any of that till reinstall, you will probably have to do all again. Confused, are you disconnecting the engine at gearbox or shaft?
Re installing and aligning an engine is another completely different kettle of fish, often out of the range of most DYI ers.
Regardless, goodluck.
Happy belated Birthday 🎂.
Keep up the Good work.
And Thank You for another Great Video.
Until next week , Aloha from the Big Island of Hawaii!
Aloha and cheers 🍻
Happy birthday
Can't Wait till your on the Water Thank you !
Your brave girl. Love your spirit ❤
You are nailing it! Well done! You are going to love your new home, and the adventures to come. Thanks, Andrew
you can use a "cheater pipe" on your ratchet for more leverage. can be a pip that slips over or a closed end wrench....add 2 ft leverage and something is coming loose
For all the obstacles you've had your Boat Yoga mastery has decimated them. Invest in anti-seize and liquid wrench and a battery powered impacted driver with sockets long enough to get at any nut no matter the bolt. Bite the bullet and replace the engine mounts if something in the back of your mind told you, take the pain now instead of banging your head with regret latter. Happy birthday. I would suggest an exhaust temp alarm, if that hasn't already been suggested.
I hope the bees are doing well these days.
Good gob young lady.
I Didn't see you replace the zinc pencils in that engine..........please look into it 😊
The engine appears to be a yanmar gm30f or a hm35f, I own the 35. I do my own mantenance (was a navy CB diesel mechanic) and posess the maintenance manuals. These engines do have ports for sacrafitial anodes but they are only used if the engine is directly cooled by seawater. The "f" designator indicates a hear exchanger is integrated. I recently rebuilt my entire 35 year old closed loop cooling system; fluids, cap, thermostat, temp sensor, and rubber lines. My engine has plugs in place of anodes and everything was fine on the corrosion front even with worn out antifreeze.
You may wonder why not just put them in to be safe? As widely known in the RV world, corrosion anodes and antifreeze no not mix. This is why hot water tanks in the RV world have bypasses to keep winterizing fluids out of the tank.
@montanadan2524 I have twin Lehman diesels, the zinc plugs go in the heat exchanger which is cooled by sea water, or raw water they call it, not in anti freeze part of cooling system
@@doncritzer2798 I understand. The raw water side of my heat exchanger has no provisions for anodes but the unit is connected to boats bonding system.
Very impressive, your grit. Reminds me of being 10 and working on my first bicycle.
You are doing great. Find out how much oil is in the motor. I think 4 or 5 quarts.
Seems your spirits are better lately.
Good collection of rags. If you slip with oil, I have had wrist injury, good to keep area clean. Tap old fitting to remove with a hammer and wood to remove.
Unprotected pulley belts dangerous, will take of fingers. Adjust tension.
You can spray a little wd40 on wire cleaned areas. But not to much it will evoporate. Fuel lines have to be perfect.
Remember to drink.
quick cheat on that exhaust trap use your pry bar between the parallels. ya you worked on it i see blood. i am impressed with how well you go with the maintenance chores. keep up the great work
next time you install an oil filter, wet the o-ring-seal with oil, then install.
"you can do anything, you can do anything" 5:20
Bonjour Nicole. Une fois de plus vous n'hésitez pas à vous lancer dans un domaine que vous ne maitrisez pas vraiment mais avec une peu de réflexion et de la méthode vous y arrivez. Faire l'entretien vous même est doublement bénéfique car non seulement vous économisez pas mal d'argent mais surtout vous acquérez une bonne connaissance de votre moteur pour le cas ou celui ci viendrait à tomber en panne. Prenez soin de vous. Amitiés. Olivier.
Check the location of the water inlet into the exhaust elbow. It looked to be on the wrong side of the U bend. The water should not be able to flow towards the exhaust manifold. It must always flow towards the muffler.
The danger is that sea water could seep into the manifold and then with an open exhaust valve into the cylinder. Which can seize your engine.
Some suggestions re your engine work. There is a flange that attaches the exhaust elbow to the heat exchanger. It removes easily. It will also make it easier for you to remove the elbow from the flange. When you remove that you will find that the majority of the coolant is in the block of the motor and this heat exchanger. You removed only the overflow tank for the cooling system. There are two or more drain cocks that allow you to drain the coolant from the block. Once you have this coolant removed you will see its color. Looking at your video it appears to be the green type. Mixing the red with the green may cause the resulting mix to coagulate. Not good. Ask me how I know all this.
Just some thing I would have done is take a marker and put the date on your filters. That way you remember when you last changed them . I do that for both gas motors and diesel .
If not said already, sometimes, if you strike the bolt with a hammer (a few times) squarely on the head without deforming the geometry of the head this will shock the bolt and crud around the bolt. This will make it easier to remove also if you have the room use a hollow pipe 16 inches that fits over the ratchet handle as added leverage. Heat from a torch will do the same if the space and area is safe to do so. You can use diesel fuel as a penetrator to loosen bolts/nuts it works very well. Any oring/sealing surface rubber should e lubricated with the same product it is used for, ie oil, fuel, hydraulic oil. Your shaping up very well as a mechanic. Age hardened hoses should be replaced when rubber hoses are hard no longer supple, most of them will deteriorate from within. If your doing an engine service inspect everything for potential issues. Better fixing on the dry dock than at sea. Extra clamps, hoses ,filters and a good tool box is a must. 😁🏝
You are one hell,va young lady. Research & learn , makes work easier & cheaper. You go girl 🤠
You are an amazing girl, I am stunned at all the work you have done so far and how well you deal with it, Cheers, Richard
Really really wish you would have put a WIX oil filter back on 🙂 WIX all around I say! They are the best filters.
Don't forget to replace drain plug before refill! Little bit of fresh oil on the filter seal will ensure no leaks or tears as the new one is tightened. Cover those battery terminals! You need two pipe wrenches (stilsons) for the manifold. Loosen engine mounts. Insert blocks and a wedge to lift one of them about 1mm or minimum to remove. Remove, replace, knock out wedge and block. Wedges are your friend! Simplest machine available.
And fill your diesel oil filters with fresh diesel oil before you refit them!.. You will have a hell of a job bleeding air out of the system otherwise!..
Same with the fuel filters so takes less time to prime and less strain on fuel pump
❤ lol you’re doing such a great job with limited amount of tools and you said yourself little knowledge you know more than I do. The only thing I can see is an armchair referee is you may need a cheater bar and an extension and a lot of penetrating fluid keep going at it girl you’re gonna knock this thing out of the park, kudos kudos kudos
Nick I wish I was there to help u, I'm a mechanic and I'm busting at the bit to be there🤣🤗like I said 1 thing at a time, ur really doing well. Have u got the manual for that engine, maybe u can download it online, please do it, the find a printer and make a book ok, you'll be so glad u did. It will be immensely helpful. Gotta go got sh!t to do!!! Xx oh try and get a good socket and ring/ open end spanners. I know it's $ but u need them. 💜🇦🇺👍that engines gonna Purr. Next oil change please put a bit of oil on the rubber o'ring on the filter, it stops the rubber binding to the housing, so it's gonna possibly be quite hard to get off next time. Also coolant is very corrosive, wear gloves and don't pour it down ur sink
Please, in the future only use Wix filters, fram and purilator are crap, just paper inside. Wix are number 1 in filters, just FYI❤
Oils not in used degrade with months. Change all of them. As well as belts..and practically all maintenance parts you can. This way you ll familiarize with engine procedures and will have clear idea when all was done on one starting date, hours, of engine. Keep eng log. Bests t care.
Hey you’re doing well but would you please tighten up your v-belts on your engine 😊
hi engine mount looks ok just keep up the good work and take the time it takes..
hello from viking😊👍💪
Top stuff Nicole.
❤ lol you’re doing such a great job with limited amount of tools and you said yourself little knowledge you know more than I do. The only thing I can see is an armchair referee is you may need a cheater bar and an extension and a lot of penetrating fluid keep going at it girl you’re gonna knock this thing out of the park, kudos kudos kudos for the radiator fluid don’t you have to do it 50-50
If you didn't put some oil on that rubber gasket on the oil filter make sure you take it of and put some on Other wise you will never get it off, once the heat from the engine running gets to that rubber seal without oil on it will ruin your day next oil change.
The fan belt look kinda loose. You might want to tighten it a bit. Keep up the great work.
I dont know if you did this or not, but when sucking the oil out make sure you remove the filler cap before pumping.
Good on you - well done!!!
add a pipe over the handle of the pipe wrench or any tool to extend its length and that will make your strength even stronger. It is called leverage. Good luck.
There are 6700 people that would love to help changing the oil filter
It looked like the engine mounts looks good from here. If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it!
Hi, when fitting filters allways smear rubber gasckets with fuel or oil respectivly ❤
Watching before you set sail tighten the alternator belt it’s way too loose and you stand a chance of loosing the belt and overheating the engine
Hello and thank you for another great real life ownership of a SV video. I would've been interested in seeing how the heat exchaner is set back in : with all the o-rings and putting it back in the correct position. How did you go about re-building the water pump?? Did you order the parts or did you have them machined ? Did you use a press to get the bearings out?? All that by yourself: impressive. I've barely managed chaning the o-ring when sea water started seeping through ut re-building it: now that's another story: if you have any footage of you rebuilding it, I'd be glad to watch. Good luck for the rest of the projects.
Suggest you buy a penetrant like PB Blaster to loosen those rusted bolts in the future. WD40 also sells a separate penetrant. Also, put a bead of oil around the gasket of the new oil filter. If not, it will be very hard to remove.
Your new alternator has the wrong type of pulley on it for your belt, you need to if you can change pulley on alternator or exchange it for another alternator with right pulley type. The belt you have on is a V belt but your alternator has a serpentine pulley. They don't match at all.
Take some WD-40 and spray the outside of your motor to prevent more corrosion otherwise you got a good runner...cheers
YIKES!! Nothing scares me more than diesel maintenance. .. . . . . . . .
Hi Nicole - the coolant you took out was green (but please don't pour it down the sink) and the one you had to go back in is red - the two are not compatible, and should replace like for like.
I'm not sure that a flush between adding the new coolant is enough, so always better to get the right one. Did you drain the coolant from the block as well? It might need to come out again before you finish.
Cheers..!!
Grant, Adelaide South Australia.
I'm pretty sure on diesels you fill up the oil filter when you put it back on
If you are truly going to remove and replace and realign the enggine the time to replace the motor mounts is as soon as you pull it out. Poking with a screwdriver does not tell you the condition of the mounts. Aligning and then in any way disturbing the motor means the alignment must be done over. So change the mounts as soon as you pull the motor. I really think you need a couple of extensions for your ratchet set. They are invaluable. You need to look again at a diagram of the coolant system. I do not think that filling that small container is the whole job. Keep in mind you are doing very well and are lucky you are a small flexible person. I visualize doing that myself and it would be torture.
Do you still have your old alternator on hand? You'll need to swap pulleys. I've always used an impact gun to undo the nut on those pulleys, there's no real handy way to hold the shaft still while torqueing that nut off/on. Your strap wrench will hold the pulley well enough for the impact gun to do the job.
Passing by diesel boi here. I didn't see you lubed the oil filter seal with fresh oil. Please double check for it. Same for diesel fuel filters - their seals need to be lubricated with diesel. Otherwise all of these components will leak. And you don't want this to happen underway, as oil leak compromises crankshaft bearings pressure lube. If you have this already pointed out - then nevermind and keep up with good work
Also, poking engine mounts with a scewdriver will show you only completely shot pieces of rubber, that'll gonna fall apart when you launch the engine. Best inspected when the engine is still mounted and tugged gently with a crowbar. Or by two blokes pushing it from side to side.But that's one of the lesser problems.
And if you want to make youself some killer-wd40, mix acetone with ATF, in 1:1 proportion. Not as comfy with a spray as wd40, but it penetrates like mad
Get yourself a Amazon drill pump quick and easy work for emptying things
You're doing a tough job in a tight space. Wouldn't all-electric be better?
Ok ok everyone else has told how to change the fuel filters, cool, change them very regularly, fuel down there can’t be trusted to be clean, if ya don’t have a racor water fuel separator, get one!! It’s important VERY, changing oil is not that hard, no that is the oil filter, when taking off put rags under it, not to make mess, yes you have a water fuel separator, that elbo is hard. To remove, be careful, maybe get some help
You should wear protective gloves when working with oils, fuels and coolants. Those chemicals are not good for your skin.
I really hope that the zink you poured the old coolant in was a zink for hazard chemicals like old fuel, oils.,coolants etc...
Get yourself an impact wrench.
Yay my goddess!
😀
you need to tighten up the alternater belt.
Yea, the reason I couldn’t do that is because the little arm that tensions the alternator belt needed to be grinded down to fit the new alternator. I also needed to swap out the serpentine pulley because I haven’t been able to afford a complete serpentine pulley conversion kit. So I didn’t tighten the alternator belt, also because I wasn’t going to get started on the alternator projects until the boat was in the water. Thanks though. Got the alternator going just a few days ago actually with Brock’s help.
🤠👍
One thing I learned here is that you need to be young and small to work on a boat engine.
How is your knee doing? I couldn't tell what the swelling was like in this video.
😅😮🎉
🇹🇷🇹🇷👍👍
Just curious as to why you’re removing the engine?
Soak the elbow in some diesel.. Its as good or even better than WD40..
It looks like your head gasket is leaking oil
Do you still need a deckhand? I volunteer.