NOTE: Don't encapsulate the foam. If your gonna use spray foam DO NOT SPRAY I AN ENCLOSED AREA. The foam need to expand if it doesn't have a place to expand it will Crack or disinform your boat hull.
yeah, don't ask me how I know that! I bulged out my M41 hull somewhat by putting spray foam in the nose. I caught it before it hardened and was able to clamp it back into shape (somewhat). I think the ABS hull is weaker than fiberglass, so I'm sure that was some of the issue....
another tip I read is that once you cut the cured foam (removing the outer layer) you expose the inner foam structure to water which it will then start to absorb... It seems pretty "closed cell" to me so i don't think it would be that much of an issue. I also agree this adds significant structural rigidity to your boat. Nice video...
Thanks for the tips you guys. I agree the outer hardened foam definitely seems to be more water resistant than the foam once cut. Glad you were able to save the m41
@@edwincordero8 if that was addressed to me, I was able to push the ABS hull back into shape and clamp it before the foam inside hardened. There is one small spot I missed, but otherwise I was able to just safe it in time....
I am so freakin glad you made this video. I wanted to use the spray polyurethane to fill an inflatable tube for a race I'm doing. I'm thinking about cutting open the tube, filling it with pool noodles and then the spray foam since pool noodles are lighter and fill up that negative space pretty well.
Flashbacks come in quickly at 6:40 of my first experience using expanding spray foam over a decade ago, it's definitely like feathering the clutch the first time you drive a new car to figure out where it engages at, & with that small an area I would definitely feather your pull on the nozzle as lightly as possible - but you don't know until you know unfortunately.
We used to cut foam wings for RC planes with a nichrome wire fashioned onto a wooden “C” shaped handle. Heat it up with an old model RR transformer which lets you adjust the heat. It’ll cut that hardened foam like butter and leave a slick sealed surface. If you’re going this route, be sure as always to test it out somewhere other than a nice RC boat like this one.
I made a foam cutter like your talking about. I used an old 12v car battery to heat it up. I've got several old train transformers. Thanks I will try it
@@IRONCLADRC Many modern lipo chargers also have a hotwire cutter feature. I have a HobbyKing Reaktor that does so along with a brushed motor drive circuit for break in!
With spray foam you can use a spray bottle and spray a little water on it to make it slightly more dense removed air pockets. Says on the back of the can
@@IRONCLADRC I used it building a small course thought it was easy. If you touch it, it seems to form a skin but it grows so much. I think the polystyrene foam did not let the can foam expand so the hull was the least resistance
@@IRONCLADRC 😳Looks like your doing a great job of the boat 😊.Have you seen the Joysway Monster Catamaran they use a flexible perspex upright rudder as a self return method wonder if it would work on other boats
@@IRONCLADRC That would be good 👍.I did try a plastic one once and it snapped off ,from what I see a d read is that if the boats upside down then it's the wind force created from the prop that moves the boat along slowly or if props in water that's a bonus
DAP makes a product called 'DAPtex Plus Multi-Purpose Foam Sealant' That i've used in other applications. It won't add much strength. But it's non-expanding and MUCH lighter. Also, the nozzle doesn't clog up after the first use. For leveling the top off with this stuff you can just use a bondo spreader or something flat. And get this, it washers off with WATER for cleanup. I got it at Lowes. You might try it out and share. :)
the best i would say is the 2 part foam you mix that is designed for real boats... spray foam is almost like a sponge ,so i would not use it... but for many applications using block foam cut to fit is best imo...
@@IRONCLADRC I just happen to have a lot of that 2 part laying around... yes as long as no water ever gets does matter to much what you use ,just dothe job right... i remember many years ago before the internet i used the 2 part when replacing a floor in a 14 ft boat i had...needless to say i used to much...lol.. But once to calculate it right its an amazing product...
Oh my God, I've only watched three seconds of this. DO NOT PUT EXPANDING FOAM IN THE NON-TRIPS!!!! Gonna watch the rest as soon as I make my coffee..... Got to 5:22 and saw you were protecting the '57 T-Bird fins. I've calmed down a bit now......... I've used the Great Stuff before, and the results were good, as Big B discovered here. The drawback is it's a bit messy, and after shooting the first bit of foam, the shelf life of the spray can is limited. The foam hardens in the can's valve and whatever is left in the can will stay there 'til the end of time. And as Big B also discovered, it will push out unsupported walls as it expands. You have to "babysit" the part as the foam hardens and push in any area that is over-expanding. Even though the outside of the foam has hardened to the touch, the foam inside is still expanding. As Vadim says below, it will still be expanding after an extended period. Cutting the foam as you did allows air and moisture inside, speeding the cure and reducing further expansion. That's a good thing. The spray foam application needs to follow the Mies van der Rhoe philosophy of "Less is more". Overall? Looking good brother!! 👍
I love to try things, trying to think outside this limited box that rc boaters have built themselves over the years. There's 1 way to do things and that's it, no other way around it. Lol. That's why I don't get on forums anymore every on thinks there only 1 way to do things and if done outside of that guide line there boat will instantly explode, like a Jame bond secret message.. I wish I'd known not to put foam in the nontrips, to late now. the little bubble spot on the side of the nontrip subsided once i cut the foam. It actually Looks perfect now.. sorry didnt mean to give you a heart attack, bud.
@@IRONCLADRC That's precisely why I wanted to see you build it. I admire a little "Redneck Engineering". Isn't that how IRONCLAD warships came to be built?
I made 1 a while back. I was actually gonna use it but the saw was right beside me. So I went for it. Flight test has the coolest foam cutter I've ever seen
Here is the designers you tube channel. DR,JET.... th-cam.com/channels/BV4Sym3RRkuBd53OmJQ7qw.html. Dr Jets email. billknoll@dslextreme.com Tell him big B sent ya.
Did you know that there is a difference between open cell and closed cell foam?!? All great stuff is open cell therefore it will take on water slowly and continue to fill. Eventually the foam will be full of water adversely raising the weight of the boat and losing it flotation for the boat.
@@IRONCLADRC It's a dessert topping!.... No, it's a floor wax! Wait! You're both right! Great stuff IS open cell and will gradually take on water when submerged. The point being, everything is sealed up and there should be no water getting to the foam in the first place. If someone with slow reactions rams you boat and fills it full of holes, you should be able to recover the floating wreck before the Great Stuff gets over-saturated to the point the hull sinks.
@@IRONCLADRC correct it should not have water in the sponsons. With that being said I know my proboat ul19 gets a very small amount of water inside the hull. Given several times of use I the cowl isn't left off to dry the inside it will retain moisture and slowly but surely it will begin to take on more and more water. Anyhow love the channel keep doing what you are doing..
Only needed a small amount 5 bucks vs 35 bucks I don't use pour foam or spray foam on most of my boats. So 5 bucks seemed like the logical choice. Plus there are other boat guys who could use this information.
NOTE: Don't encapsulate the foam. If your gonna use spray foam DO NOT SPRAY I AN ENCLOSED AREA. The foam need to expand if it doesn't have a place to expand it will Crack or disinform your boat hull.
yeah, don't ask me how I know that! I bulged out my M41 hull somewhat by putting spray foam in the nose. I caught it before it hardened and was able to clamp it back into shape (somewhat). I think the ABS hull is weaker than fiberglass, so I'm sure that was some of the issue....
another tip I read is that once you cut the cured foam (removing the outer layer) you expose the inner foam structure to water which it will then start to absorb... It seems pretty "closed cell" to me so i don't think it would be that much of an issue. I also agree this adds significant structural rigidity to your boat. Nice video...
Thanks for the tips you guys. I agree the outer hardened foam definitely seems to be more water resistant than the foam once cut. Glad you were able to save the m41
So how are you going to fix the deformed sponson ?
@@edwincordero8 if that was addressed to me, I was able to push the ABS hull back into shape and clamp it before the foam inside hardened. There is one small spot I missed, but otherwise I was able to just safe it in time....
Well done that man yes all ways test your ideas out and inform on the results good or bad... Tony from Oxfordshire UK
I am so freakin glad you made this video. I wanted to use the spray polyurethane to fill an inflatable tube for a race I'm doing. I'm thinking about cutting open the tube, filling it with pool noodles and then the spray foam since pool noodles are lighter and fill up that negative space pretty well.
Flashbacks come in quickly at 6:40 of my first experience using expanding spray foam over a decade ago, it's definitely like feathering the clutch the first time you drive a new car to figure out where it engages at, & with that small an area I would definitely feather your pull on the nozzle as lightly as possible - but you don't know until you know unfortunately.
This was 2 years ago tho, I am assuming you're an old pro at spray foam by now... Took guts actually filming your first attempt with it tho. 👍🏼👍🏼
We used to cut foam wings for RC planes with a nichrome wire fashioned onto a wooden “C” shaped handle. Heat it up with an old model RR transformer which lets you adjust the heat. It’ll cut that hardened foam like butter and leave a slick sealed surface. If you’re going this route, be sure as always to test it out somewhere other than a nice RC boat like this one.
I made a foam cutter like your talking about. I used an old 12v car battery to heat it up. I've got several old train transformers. Thanks I will try it
@@IRONCLADRC for this use, I’d try making the frame about the size of a coping saw frame. Easier to work around smaller complex shapes.
@@IRONCLADRC Many modern lipo chargers also have a hotwire cutter feature. I have a HobbyKing Reaktor that does so along with a brushed motor drive circuit for break in!
yes you get perfect cuts and no mess..definitely best..
Oh yeah.. Ironclad Rocks
With spray foam you can use a spray bottle and spray a little water on it to make it slightly more dense removed air pockets. Says on the back of the can
Thanks brother. First time spraying into a boat, I will take all the tips I can get.
@@IRONCLADRC I used it building a small course thought it was easy. If you touch it, it seems to form a skin but it grows so much. I think the polystyrene foam did not let the can foam expand so the hull was the least resistance
Maybe if I vented the top of each section after the skin dried maybe it wouldn't of blown the side of the boat out? 🤔
I like it how you cut towards your arm😂😊😎 It's good you show this stuff,many people are new to this and can find answers here
Suicide cut
@@IRONCLADRC 😳Looks like your doing a great job of the boat 😊.Have you seen the Joysway Monster Catamaran they use a flexible perspex upright rudder as a self return method wonder if it would work on other boats
Oh yea. It for sure would. Just cut and sharpen a scrap piece of aluminum & bolt it to the rudder
@@IRONCLADRC That would be good 👍.I did try a plastic one once and it snapped off ,from what I see a d read is that if the boats upside down then it's the wind force created from the prop that moves the boat along slowly or if props in water that's a bonus
Nice job 👌 congratulations 👏
50 knots & no smoke come on
Excellent explanation professor prop
scientific research & evidence that the elusive spray foam FLOATS! IRONCLADED OUT UNIVERSITY. "IOU"
Could have tied weights to the floats & measured their depth for buoyancy.
DAP makes a product called 'DAPtex Plus Multi-Purpose Foam Sealant' That i've used in other applications. It won't add much strength. But it's non-expanding and MUCH lighter. Also, the nozzle doesn't clog up after the first use. For leveling the top off with this stuff you can just use a bondo spreader or something flat. And get this, it washers off with WATER for cleanup. I got it at Lowes. You might try it out and share. :)
I saw dap when I was shopping for foam I was up in the air on which one to get. I will definitely keep that I'm mind for next time thanks
Nice job! All that was missing was a few cherries on top! 😉😅👌
Hudroplane Sundae. Lol.
I just learned u can mix water with gorilla glue 10 to 1 parts stir.. makes foam havnt tested buoyancy yet
I've used the gorilla glue that foams that's some strong stuff! Doubt it will float though. Wouldn't hurt to try. Tinker test & tune.
Check out Neolon buoyancy foam. It has better buoyancy than any of these. It would make your boat lighter.
good job , well done👍
Thanks brother
ive had that stuff split a 5/4 door jam
Yea you've gotta be carefull and not contain the foam it's got to have a place to vent
o breathtaking . friend- 😲
Thanks for watching brother
Are you going to make more about 1:20 wood ?
Yes sir. We just got back from the hospital having our son. Wife had a minor complication, finally home & working on the 1;20 rt now
@@IRONCLADRC I'm happy you had a son con grays
the best i would say is the 2 part foam you mix that is designed for real boats... spray foam is almost like a sponge ,so i would not use it... but for many applications using block foam cut to fit is best imo...
Pour foam is triple the cost of spray foam, but as you say it's better in every way. Inside a sponson it's fine completely sealed off from water
@@IRONCLADRC I just happen to have a lot of that 2 part laying around... yes as long as no water ever gets does matter to much what you use ,just dothe job right... i remember many years ago before the internet i used the 2 part when replacing a floor in a 14 ft boat i had...needless to say i used to much...lol.. But once to calculate it right its an amazing product...
they sell non expanding also
It's the same type foam? But doesn't expand? Nice. Thanks for the tip brother.
Big B, be careful with spray foam. I have examples when it continue expanding after few months cracking the boat hull.
Thanks for the heads up
Oh my God, I've only watched three seconds of this. DO NOT PUT EXPANDING FOAM IN THE NON-TRIPS!!!! Gonna watch the rest as soon as I make my coffee..... Got to 5:22 and saw you were protecting the '57 T-Bird fins. I've calmed down a bit now.........
I've used the Great Stuff before, and the results were good, as Big B discovered here. The drawback is it's a bit messy, and after shooting the first bit of foam, the shelf life of the spray can is limited. The foam hardens in the can's valve and whatever is left in the can will stay there 'til the end of time.
And as Big B also discovered, it will push out unsupported walls as it expands. You have to "babysit" the part as the foam hardens and push in any area that is over-expanding. Even though the outside of the foam has hardened to the touch, the foam inside is still expanding. As Vadim says below, it will still be expanding after an extended period. Cutting the foam as you did allows air and moisture inside, speeding the cure and reducing further expansion. That's a good thing. The spray foam application needs to follow the Mies van der Rhoe philosophy of "Less is more".
Overall? Looking good brother!! 👍
LOL. are you okay Dr jet. 👍
@@IRONCLADRC I dunno..... I had some heart palpitations for a moment there.........
I love to try things, trying to think outside this limited box that rc boaters have built themselves over the years. There's 1 way to do things and that's it, no other way around it. Lol. That's why I don't get on forums anymore every on thinks there only 1 way to do things and if done outside of that guide line there boat will instantly explode, like a Jame bond secret message.. I wish I'd known not to put foam in the nontrips, to late now. the little bubble spot on the side of the nontrip subsided once i cut the foam. It actually Looks perfect now.. sorry didnt mean to give you a heart attack, bud.
@@IRONCLADRC That's precisely why I wanted to see you build it. I admire a little "Redneck Engineering". Isn't that how IRONCLAD warships came to be built?
Yep. I suppose so. lol.
why dont you make a hotwire foamcutter?
I made 1 a while back. I was actually gonna use it but the saw was right beside me. So I went for it. Flight test has the coolest foam cutter I've ever seen
Where can I buy that wood kit???
Here is the designers you tube channel. DR,JET....
th-cam.com/channels/BV4Sym3RRkuBd53OmJQ7qw.html.
Dr Jets email.
billknoll@dslextreme.com
Tell him big B sent ya.
You best not delay. There is only one left.
Only genius people will understand that video❤️
Did you know that there is a difference between open cell and closed cell foam?!? All great stuff is open cell therefore it will take on water slowly and continue to fill. Eventually the foam will be full of water adversely raising the weight of the boat and losing it flotation for the boat.
There should be no water in the sponsons. Why would it fill with water? Hmmmm.
@@IRONCLADRC It's a dessert topping!.... No, it's a floor wax! Wait! You're both right! Great stuff IS open cell and will gradually take on water when submerged. The point being, everything is sealed up and there should be no water getting to the foam in the first place. If someone with slow reactions rams you boat and fills it full of holes, you should be able to recover the floating wreck before the Great Stuff gets over-saturated to the point the hull sinks.
@@IRONCLADRC correct it should not have water in the sponsons. With that being said I know my proboat ul19 gets a very small amount of water inside the hull. Given several times of use I the cowl isn't left off to dry the inside it will retain moisture and slowly but surely it will begin to take on more and more water. Anyhow love the channel keep doing what you are doing..
😩Why?Pour foam always!A half inch stream of post foam would have done it and way stronger than the spray foam.$20a quart online eBay 👍❤️
Poor man's pour foam! Lol.
Only needed a small amount 5 bucks vs 35 bucks I don't use pour foam or spray foam on most of my boats. So 5 bucks seemed like the logical choice. Plus there are other boat guys who could use this information.
Spray foam expands worst think you can put in the boat for floatation
You need to test the foam first to see how much it expands and use it with caution. Never cover always keep the area open for expansion.
@@IRONCLADRC Personally I think you are going to regret this JMO.