Looking good Big "B"! I have an old Aquacraft Mini Mono that has a piano wire drive setup. My advise to you is to make sure to install a propeller shaft saver over the piano wire because these types of motor couplers are notorious for loosening up. If the motor coupler gets loose, the prop shaft will eject out of the boat and sink to the bottom of the lake. Installing a propeller shaft saver over the piano wire drive will prevent this from happening. The wire drive should easily handle 3S power, but check the motor coupler screw often. Can't wait to see her run! Oh and more important, congrats on the baby boy! That's awesome news!
Thanks for the advise. I have one of those little aquacraft wire drives those little wire drives are perfect for small boats. There extremely hard to find online.. thanks again brother
Hey Big B!! Congrats to you both, on the arrival of little, ‘Big B,’ Master Axe!! Love his name!! Glad your wife is on the up and up now. Also glad you are back on the build…lets gooooo! 👍🏻
I just installed 2 wire drives on my twin tug last week with 3/16 prop shafts using your JB steel method !!! They're bulletproof!! Congrats on the Lil Man!
Yes sir, the jb weld works great. I was gonna use the jb weld on this wire drive but the jb weld is thick, would of been extremely hard to get in the tiny 1/16 tube so I made an executive decision to use red loc-tight. Hopefully it hold up.
Great to see you back on the build buddy, and awesome to see Axe with a transmitter in the shot... the baby don't need no rattle, just a remote!! 😁👌 Start him on the hobby real early! Lol
Congratulations,a beautiful boy and what a joy they are❤️👍Wire drive is badass and glad to see back on your build.Wondering about the brass tube cutting the wire?All the wire drives usually have a pair of bearings to keep it off the wire.Hope it works good and interesting to see.
The tube that the Wire sets in is supported by the brass stuffing tube so the actuall Wire is free spinning. I think it's an awesome set up. I'd like to try and scale it up for another boat later on. Build my own variation ya know.
As I've said before, I love your videos! Maybe you can help me. I've got a blackjack 24 and I recently upgraded the flexshaft and prop from Offshore Electrics hopup kit. Ever since then I can't get the boat up on plane and I've been messing with the strut angle to the point of frustration. What do you think?
Is there any binding in the drive line? Spool up your motor and feel for heat in the stuffing tube & Strut, if there heat you need to address it. set the boat on a table top with rudder hanging off the edge. Push the strut down in line witb the ride surface strut should be flat level, in line with table top/ride pads... no up angle or down angle. If that doesn't do it adjust the strut up or down (probably down ) a few mm at a time. Hope this helps
Congrats on the baby, he looks like U . Glad the wife is doing well also . Your doin a great job with the boat but after today I hav realized I do not want to build a wooden boat from scratch or with a kit . The wire being exposed & not having it enclosed in the stuffing was too far out of the box for me . I personally think there is more benefits to having it long & enclosed totally . I'm even thinking what your thinking , how is it going to keep the water out . Just my thoughts .
I wouldn't let the Wire discourage you from building this boat. It's an awesome set up. I think the Wire will hold up on 2s for sure as for 3s, I think it will hold 3s with light take offs ya know. It's 304 stainless which has some steel in it. So it shouldn't break? May twist under load but we will see. It's an awesome boat for sure.
The center sump is not a ride surface. When running, it should be about 1/2" above the water. It is there to provide room for your motor and to reduce the amount of air trapped under the hull. The wire is 1/32". The 1/32" ply ride pads were intended to be attached to the hull before finishing. It will be more work than necessary to make them removable and waterproof at the same time. Instead, use them for templates to cut fiberglass or carbon fiber ride pads. All the nuts are Nyloc and don't need Loctite. I really like the stand you made. 👍 I never get water in these hulls. Flex shafts, with their coiled surface can act as a water pump. One round shaft rotating in a hole doesn't cause fluids to move laterally to the rotation. The close tolerance between the 1/16" SS tube and the 3/32" brass tube will allow water through, but the amount is minuscule. Something on the order of 10% of a drop. Remember, the stuffing tube/hull joint is above the surface when you are running. and the water surface would need to be above the motor end of the stuffing tube to force water out of it. Add lubricant in your shaft (and rudder pushrod) every time you run it and that will reduce it even further. I use those little pencil oil dispensers with the needle tip. Oh No!! Don't use red Loctite!!....... All warranties void... 😏 Although you do have a point about the large surface areas (intentional) and I commend your preparation. Thumbs up on the bearing lubricant! Will add more when I finish watching.........
I freaking love the Wire drive I can't stop bench testing it. I see what your saying about the water and flex cables acting as a water pump a Wire drive would be different in that respect. Your right the sump will be above the water while running. I didn't think about that. 👍
Some of my thinking with the red loc-tight is if for some reason the red doesn't hold 100% it would let the wire spin before breaking the wire on 3s. & 2 I'm curious to see if it works. You know me. Test the limitations of a product. I'd rather the wire & or capillary tube spin than break or telwist the wire. Ya know what I mean? Cause it will be run on 3s. Here and there.
@@IRONCLADRC Well, the way everything is laid out, you could spin the red Loctite and not lose any parts. I've broken glue joints before, but never the wire.
A lot of foam and epoxy in there man next time a piece in each sponson is more than enough and no spray foam as it retains water and rots your boat all that foam from the sponson to the back of the boat is unnecessary added weight that's why you put foam on each sponson and done and the epoxy to waterproof the boat add denatured alcohol to the epoxy while mixing till it has the viscosity of water then just spread that all over the bottom and inside the boat to water proof it saves a lot of weight but that's only to waterproof not to hold pieces in place :) great vid bud installing flex cable on a Miss Budweiser today :)
Hello Big B. I would like you to let the people know if they use ( GREAT STUFF ) how damn DANGREROUS !!!! IT IS !!! That stuff is highly EXPLOSIVE it is while curing an how flammable the vapors are . I almost burnt a house down using it 1 time i sprayed it to seal up a hatch going down into a crawl space an the hot water tank was 22ft away 10 mins after using spray foam hot water tank burners kicked on an i watched the flames roll threw the air from the hot water tank to the foam i spayed 22 ft away an explode fire balls of great stuff all over the walls ! I got it put out ! But if i would of left the house it would of burnt to the ground here is a video look at it an please let every 1 know thank you !
What's happening with the wire vibrating is it occurs at a specific harmonic at a specific rpm. That's common with a lot of rotating things. The prop loads on the wire will be enough to keep it from wobbling like that. Keep the bends in the servo wire to a minimum. It's a bit wonky, but most of your heavy turning forces will have the rod in tension rather than compression which has been working well enough for me.
congrats on the newborn! enjoy each other
Congrats on a healthy baby boy !!
Looking good Big "B"! I have an old Aquacraft Mini Mono that has a piano wire drive setup. My advise to you is to make sure to install a propeller shaft saver over the piano wire because these types of motor couplers are notorious for loosening up. If the motor coupler gets loose, the prop shaft will eject out of the boat and sink to the bottom of the lake. Installing a propeller shaft saver over the piano wire drive will prevent this from happening. The wire drive should easily handle 3S power, but check the motor coupler screw often. Can't wait to see her run! Oh and more important, congrats on the baby boy! That's awesome news!
Thanks for the advise. I have one of those little aquacraft wire drives those little wire drives are perfect for small boats. There extremely hard to find online.. thanks again brother
Congrats on a healthy baby boy
Congrats to you both with Baby Axe Ironclad
Awesome built
CONGRATS ON NEW ADDITION TO YOUR FAMILY BIG B, HE WILL BE RCing IN NO TIME!!!!! :) :)
Thanks. I can't wait. 👍
Hey Big B!! Congrats to you both, on the arrival of little, ‘Big B,’ Master Axe!! Love his name!! Glad your wife is on the up and up now. Also glad you are back on the build…lets gooooo! 👍🏻
Thanks brother glad to be back. It's been a hectic 2022. Thanks a again
Congrats my dude.
LOOKIN GOOD BIG B
Congrats brother. Awesome video love the build series.
Thanks brother, the videos are longer than usual but I try to make it entertaining. Thanks for watching
I just installed 2 wire drives on my twin tug last week with 3/16 prop shafts using your JB steel method !!! They're bulletproof!! Congrats on the Lil Man!
Yes sir, the jb weld works great. I was gonna use the jb weld on this wire drive but the jb weld is thick, would of been extremely hard to get in the tiny 1/16 tube so I made an executive decision to use red loc-tight. Hopefully it hold up.
Great to see you back on the build buddy, and awesome to see Axe with a transmitter in the shot... the baby don't need no rattle, just a remote!! 😁👌
Start him on the hobby real early! Lol
Lol. Heck yea my thinking too. Haha. Make an automatic RC baby burper.. 😆
@@IRONCLADRC 🤣
I:m so gald you have the little one home now . i bet you are jumpind arould!!
Oh yea it's hectic around here. Wouldn't trade it for anything. Thanks for watching brother
Congratulations,a beautiful boy and what a joy they are❤️👍Wire drive is badass and glad to see back on your build.Wondering about the brass tube cutting the wire?All the wire drives usually have a pair of bearings to keep it off the wire.Hope it works good and interesting to see.
The tube that the Wire sets in is supported by the brass stuffing tube so the actuall Wire is free spinning. I think it's an awesome set up. I'd like to try and scale it up for another boat later on. Build my own variation ya know.
I see a full sized RC stroller in your future.... if the edge of the box does not get in your way
Lol heck yea
As I've said before, I love your videos! Maybe you can help me. I've got a blackjack 24 and I recently upgraded the flexshaft and prop from Offshore Electrics hopup kit. Ever since then I can't get the boat up on plane and I've been messing with the strut angle to the point of frustration. What do you think?
Is there any binding in the drive line? Spool up your motor and feel for heat in the stuffing tube & Strut, if there heat you need to address it. set the boat on a table top with rudder hanging off the edge. Push the strut down in line witb the ride surface strut should be flat level, in line with table top/ride pads... no up angle or down angle. If that doesn't do it adjust the strut up or down (probably down ) a few mm at a time. Hope this helps
Congrats on the baby, he looks like U . Glad the wife is doing well also . Your doin a great job with the boat but after today I hav realized I do not want to build a wooden boat from scratch or with a kit . The wire being exposed & not having it enclosed in the stuffing was too far out of the box for me . I personally think there is more benefits to having it long & enclosed totally . I'm even thinking what your thinking , how is it going to keep the water out . Just my thoughts .
I wouldn't let the Wire discourage you from building this boat. It's an awesome set up. I think the Wire will hold up on 2s for sure as for 3s, I think it will hold 3s with light take offs ya know. It's 304 stainless which has some steel in it. So it shouldn't break? May twist under load but we will see. It's an awesome boat for sure.
The center sump is not a ride surface. When running, it should be about 1/2" above the water. It is there to provide room for your motor and to reduce the amount of air trapped under the hull. The wire is 1/32". The 1/32" ply ride pads were intended to be attached to the hull before finishing. It will be more work than necessary to make them removable and waterproof at the same time. Instead, use them for templates to cut fiberglass or carbon fiber ride pads. All the nuts are Nyloc and don't need Loctite. I really like the stand you made. 👍 I never get water in these hulls. Flex shafts, with their coiled surface can act as a water pump. One round shaft rotating in a hole doesn't cause fluids to move laterally to the rotation. The close tolerance between the 1/16" SS tube and the 3/32" brass tube will allow water through, but the amount is minuscule. Something on the order of 10% of a drop. Remember, the stuffing tube/hull joint is above the surface when you are running. and the water surface would need to be above the motor end of the stuffing tube to force water out of it. Add lubricant in your shaft (and rudder pushrod) every time you run it and that will reduce it even further. I use those little pencil oil dispensers with the needle tip.
Oh No!! Don't use red Loctite!!....... All warranties void... 😏 Although you do have a point about the large surface areas (intentional) and I commend your preparation. Thumbs up on the bearing lubricant! Will add more when I finish watching.........
I freaking love the Wire drive I can't stop bench testing it. I see what your saying about the water and flex cables acting as a water pump a Wire drive would be different in that respect. Your right the sump will be above the water while running. I didn't think about that. 👍
Some of my thinking with the red loc-tight is if for some reason the red doesn't hold 100% it would let the wire spin before breaking the wire on 3s. & 2 I'm curious to see if it works. You know me. Test the limitations of a product. I'd rather the wire & or capillary tube spin than break or telwist the wire. Ya know what I mean? Cause it will be run on 3s. Here and there.
@@IRONCLADRC Well, the way everything is laid out, you could spin the red Loctite and not lose any parts. I've broken glue joints before, but never the wire.
A lot of foam and epoxy in there man next time a piece in each sponson is more than enough and no spray foam as it retains water and rots your boat all that foam from the sponson to the back of the boat is unnecessary added weight that's why you put foam on each sponson and done and the epoxy to waterproof the boat add denatured alcohol to the epoxy while mixing till it has the viscosity of water then just spread that all over the bottom and inside the boat to water proof it saves a lot of weight but that's only to waterproof not to hold pieces in place :) great vid bud installing flex cable on a
Miss Budweiser today :)
I an you gald you are home now my best with withs to you and you and you wife good withs to all!!!
Thanks brother 🙏
Hello Big B. I would like you to let the people know if they use ( GREAT STUFF ) how damn DANGREROUS !!!! IT IS !!! That stuff is highly EXPLOSIVE it is while curing an how flammable the vapors are . I almost burnt a house down using it 1 time i sprayed it to seal up a hatch going down into a crawl space an the hot water tank was 22ft away 10 mins after using spray foam hot water tank burners kicked on an i watched the flames roll threw the air from the hot water tank to the foam i spayed 22 ft away an explode fire balls of great stuff all over the walls ! I got it put out ! But if i would of left the house it would of burnt to the ground here is a video look at it an please let every 1 know thank you !
th-cam.com/video/4Pwxoxkomeg/w-d-xo.html
Hey! B. Will the water itself dampen that vibration? Answer me in your next vid. -J-
That's what I'm thinkin'...................
We're gonna fing out in the next couple days she's almost ready.
What's happening with the wire vibrating is it occurs at a specific harmonic at a specific rpm. That's common with a lot of rotating things. The prop loads on the wire will be enough to keep it from wobbling like that. Keep the bends in the servo wire to a minimum. It's a bit wonky, but most of your heavy turning forces will have the rod in tension rather than compression which has been working well enough for me.
Editing that video now. Servo rudder linkage is DUN-Done