I had previously decked-over the bow of my small aluminum boat to provide a spot to stand and cast while fishing and had been intending for some time to go back and fill the voids underneath the decking with expansion foam to serve as added flotation in the event the boat swamped. I'm glad that I waited (procrastinated) as I now get to reap the benefits of your exceedingly thorough (as ever) testing. Thanks indeed!
It was creepy because every time an idea or question would pop into my head, the next bit of dialog would immediately address it. This left me feeling quite satisfied. Great video.
Thank you Alex for the foam absorption tests! I have begun researching options for insulating hard to reach areas of my Van and moisture absorption is a big concern as removing it in the future will be difficult.
If you're doing large panels in a van, I'd stick with hiring a proper machine, or get a pro to do it, and then have a can of Landscape or Soudafoam 2K for little jobs.
@@AlexHibbertOriginals Thank you for the reply! I've been using foil backed polyiso foam for the flat sections. It's a smaller passenger van so unfortunately it has many small nooks and crannies. I think your suggestion of the 2k foam is the direction I should take. My primary concern is moisture being absorbed over time and causing rust or mold.
For the rhythm of algo. A relative of mine used the cheaper Sudofoam (sp?) to insulate a structure he was building. A few years later in normal British weather, the foam has rotted.
I landed here from watching people in the US using GreatStuff (original) to both lift/level concrete slabs. Some drill holes and inject to have the foam do the lifting; others mechanically lift (jacks, chains, etc.) and use the foam to 'fill' the void. (I ended up there while researching professional-grade concrete repair products for my home's foundation). In watching these DIY/Handyman 'fixes' I'm just SMH as these things are going to fail due to moisture retention, and as concrete is permeable, moisture is going to be present all the time. As you mentioned, there are products engineered for those situations, but they aren't cheap, even for the 'DIY++' user. Your rigorous tests prove my thinking on this correct. Excellent video, now subbed, and look forward to your other content.
I'd use the Soudafoam 2K (chemical cure) for most jobs that don't need huge expansion. If you shop around it's only a little more expensive than normal hardware store spray foam.
@@AlexHibbertOriginals Interesting. The Soudafoam 2K doesn't show up in the US. (Just a quick search). The company website shows many other products, and they do manufacture in Kentucky. I've got a home built in 1914 and a half dozen slabs on which to experiment. I'll try to get some online from UK or EU and see if they can ship to US. And, yes a to part chemical-cure closed sell is the way to go. Thanks for the tip.
Very neat video, i was just looking for foams that would cure on damp surfaces (a boat interior hull for example) and this is very useful - i would think about fiberglassing or varnishing over a foam that has its skin, because if the foam is air tight then new moist air wont penetrate and condensation will only form on the areas exposed to air, hence the varnish. Its an extra layer of insulation in my case, although the points where the varnish meet the hull provide another channel for heat transfer
Thank you for making this video. I currently have a wooden outdoor dresser that I just picked up to hold plants on. I've been thoroughly researching how to waterproof this thing. Just pouring Thompson water sealer will not do it I don't think. Plus I do need to fill in a lot of cracks. I feel like that DAP black phone might do the trick. I would love to share some photos of where the foam will be applied and receive some advice. Please and thank you!!!
coincidences are none stop with LCE, I used to work for P.P.M. Precision Ployurathane Mouldings, and we thought that the whiter the material the better as far as not having huge air bubbles in it and a more consistent texture, we cast blocks 20-feet long by 6-foot wide and 4-foot high, huge slabs for cutting up into sheets on huge saw tables, we used 100% pure industrial acetone as a cleaner,
I know the video is over a year old but you have a product in the Uk called Aquascape waterfall foam that is pretty much if not exactally the same and great stuff pond and foam .
Alex before I watched your video on the fillers , I bought myself the Gorilla Filler' because in my seller I get about 3 inch water coming in , I hope it will stop the problem
Good test I had Gorilla in my Canoe nose to aid buoyancy if I tip over, it worked well for six months I canoe at least 1 to 2 days a week in the sea off the west of Scotland the Gorilla foam does not like salt water it disintegrated in 6 months, new canoe now weighing up what I should use now I am undecided after this test
Can any of these spray foams be used on car's noise cancelation? How's the sound proofing ability 😮😊 just curious about the possibility as it looks pretty light.
This is an extremely informative episode. I was considering a Kapten boat collar for my 3.6m aluminium dingy to aid stability (increase buoyancy around the boat) but they’re expensive …. Thought about a DIY solution and expanding foam came to mind, forming it into the desired shape down the port and starboard side might be tricky though. The under seat foam has deteriorated and needs to be removed however and maybe I could add some storage compartments in there and surround with foam.
If they have a R&D department, I would guess it's due to that. When trying to figure out a single foam, they probably discovered a bunch of other foams they can market in different ways.
@@AlexHibbertOriginals thank you for reply. I actually misspelled “endure”. I’m wondering if it can hold a person walking over it. If the space that is filled will give way easily if underneath.
Alex, you totally failed on the MOST IMPORTANT Test of these spray foams for use in a boat......FIRE, FLAME, AND TOXIC SMOKE RATINGS... I'm utterly shocked you did not think about the implications concerning the flammability and generation of profuse amounts of suffocating toxic smoke that those spray foams produce....
@@AlexHibbertOriginals , Great! Then why in heck would you install that in a boat for God's sake??? 2 greatest causes of death on a boat A) Sinking/Drowning, B) Fire/Smoke inhalation... Facts..... If you do use that foam for positive buoyancy....find something else... If for insulation...Rockwool...it's fire proof and water proof.
Take a moment to breathe and stop text-shouting. Mineral wool is loose fibre, and not closed cell, so would wet out immediately. It would not maintain buoyancy. Boats are made generally of wood or plastic resins. They are covered in paints, most of which are plastics. Most of these materials burn and produce dangerous gases like CO and NOx, at best. Only uncoated aluminium avoids this. You are shouting at the entire maritime industry. Most designers accept the risk and try to mitigate it with fire fighting and escape methods.
@@AlexHibbertOriginals , No you are wrong again... Rockwool comes in compressed panels trade name: Comfort Wall. Water passes right through it, Insects can not live in it, rats can not burrow into it, Termites die in it. Fire proof..can be glued on using Rockwool brand class 1 fire rated adhesive... Spray expanding foam is a Death Wish by aphixiation... "Accept the Risk"....no frigging way...have you seen what happens when spray foam catches fire??? The toxic smoke will kill you long before you get a chance to escape...and what about Cruising with young children and family pets??? They don't stand a chance...
I did some scratching - have a look at the data sheet? It's been tested already - Water absorption (EN 29767) Ca. 0,23 kg/m² - Percentage closed cells (ISO4590) Ca. 81 % - www.soudal.co.uk/sites/default/files/soudal_api/document/F0031016_0001.pdf
![Lifeboat Conversion Ep47: Discovering a very unhealthy exhaust pipe hidden beneath heat lagging [4K]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/-4yipMYLRng/mqdefault.jpg)
![Lifeboat Conversion Ep47: Discovering a very unhealthy exhaust pipe hidden beneath heat lagging [4K]](/img/tr.png)
I had previously decked-over the bow of my small aluminum boat to provide a spot to stand and cast while fishing and had been intending for some time to go back and fill the voids underneath the decking with expansion foam to serve as added flotation in the event the boat swamped. I'm glad that I waited (procrastinated) as I now get to reap the benefits of your exceedingly thorough (as ever) testing. Thanks indeed!
Alex - If there is ever a feature film made about Alan I suggest the director uses a montage for this part of the story.
It was creepy because every time an idea or question would pop into my head, the next bit of dialog would immediately address it.
This left me feeling quite satisfied. Great video.
And no lack of pressure on me to continue such prescience!
it blows my mind that you've only got 40K subscribers. i think i got here around 5k, and youve been pumping out gold since then.
Yes, we've plateaued a bit. TH-cam is fickle. But we strive onward. Cheers!
@@AlexHibbertOriginals ive posted your channel to my 12 strong group of dnd players. you're welcome.
Foam, wow can't believe how interesting I found that
These little research episodes are awesome
I'm here only to generate awe.
I feel like my chosen foam won and therefore I won. This must be what's it's like to watch sports.
Basically.
Except you actually learned something.
Thank you Alex for the foam absorption tests! I have begun researching options for insulating hard to reach areas of my Van and moisture absorption is a big concern as removing it in the future will be difficult.
If you're doing large panels in a van, I'd stick with hiring a proper machine, or get a pro to do it, and then have a can of Landscape or Soudafoam 2K for little jobs.
@@AlexHibbertOriginals Thank you for the reply! I've been using foil backed polyiso foam for the flat sections. It's a smaller passenger van so unfortunately it has many small nooks and crannies. I think your suggestion of the 2k foam is the direction I should take. My primary concern is moisture being absorbed over time and causing rust or mold.
For the rhythm of algo. A relative of mine used the cheaper Sudofoam (sp?) to insulate a structure he was building. A few years later in normal British weather, the foam has rotted.
Yes, I'd not use a foam that's under 80% closed cell for anything where humidity or water is a challenge.
I landed here from watching people in the US using GreatStuff (original) to both lift/level concrete slabs. Some drill holes and inject to have the foam do the lifting; others mechanically lift (jacks, chains, etc.) and use the foam to 'fill' the void. (I ended up there while researching professional-grade concrete repair products for my home's foundation). In watching these DIY/Handyman 'fixes' I'm just SMH as these things are going to fail due to moisture retention, and as concrete is permeable, moisture is going to be present all the time. As you mentioned, there are products engineered for those situations, but they aren't cheap, even for the 'DIY++' user. Your rigorous tests prove my thinking on this correct.
Excellent video, now subbed, and look forward to your other content.
I'd use the Soudafoam 2K (chemical cure) for most jobs that don't need huge expansion. If you shop around it's only a little more expensive than normal hardware store spray foam.
@@AlexHibbertOriginals Interesting. The Soudafoam 2K doesn't show up in the US. (Just a quick search). The company website shows many other products, and they do manufacture in Kentucky. I've got a home built in 1914 and a half dozen slabs on which to experiment. I'll try to get some online from UK or EU and see if they can ship to US.
And, yes a to part chemical-cure closed sell is the way to go. Thanks for the tip.
Awesome video Alex. Just what I needed to refill a bouyancy tank that I had to do a crack repair in.
No problems. If you can pour from above, two part liquid LD40 is the stuff. But if you need to squirt....
Very neat video, i was just looking for foams that would cure on damp surfaces (a boat interior hull for example) and this is very useful - i would think about fiberglassing or varnishing over a foam that has its skin, because if the foam is air tight then new moist air wont penetrate and condensation will only form on the areas exposed to air, hence the varnish. Its an extra layer of insulation in my case, although the points where the varnish meet the hull provide another channel for heat transfer
Glad it helped!
Thank you for making this video. I currently have a wooden outdoor dresser that I just picked up to hold plants on. I've been thoroughly researching how to waterproof this thing. Just pouring Thompson water sealer will not do it I don't think. Plus I do need to fill in a lot of cracks. I feel like that DAP black phone might do the trick.
I would love to share some photos of where the foam will be applied and receive some advice. Please and thank you!!!
coincidences are none stop with LCE, I used to work for P.P.M. Precision Ployurathane Mouldings, and we thought that the whiter the material the better as far as not having huge air bubbles in it and a more consistent texture, we cast blocks 20-feet long by 6-foot wide and 4-foot high, huge slabs for cutting up into sheets on huge saw tables, we used 100% pure industrial acetone as a cleaner,
I know the video is over a year old but you have a product in the Uk called Aquascape waterfall foam that is pretty much if not exactally the same and great stuff pond and foam .
Alex before I watched your video on the fillers , I bought myself the Gorilla Filler' because in my seller I get about 3 inch water coming in , I hope it will stop the problem
Good test I had Gorilla in my Canoe nose to aid buoyancy if I tip over, it worked well for six months I canoe at least 1 to 2 days a week in the sea off the west of Scotland the Gorilla foam does not like salt water it disintegrated in 6 months, new canoe now weighing up what I should use now I am undecided after this test
For serious marine use, I recommend two part PU foam, not spray foam.
Can any of these spray foams be used on car's noise cancelation? How's the sound proofing ability 😮😊 just curious about the possibility as it looks pretty light.
Low density foams will help with high frequency sounds, but won't help with low or rumbling sounds.
Very well done. Thank you
Thank you
the squishy black foam while curing makes me want to chew on it lol
The makers of this channel cannot be held responsible for inspiring the ingestion of any chemicals or otherwise inedible objects.
The white ones looked quite tasty too, although I bet they smell anything but edible in person.
This is an extremely informative episode. I was considering a Kapten boat collar for my 3.6m aluminium dingy to aid stability (increase buoyancy around the boat) but they’re expensive …. Thought about a DIY solution and expanding foam came to mind, forming it into the desired shape down the port and starboard side might be tricky though. The under seat foam has deteriorated and needs to be removed however and maybe I could add some storage compartments in there and surround with foam.
Very accurate and interesting
maybe its interesting for someone, "Henkel" has a lot of different foamtypes for industrial use
If they have a R&D department, I would guess it's due to that. When trying to figure out a single foam, they probably discovered a bunch of other foams they can market in different ways.
Which one is better?
Close cell foam is waterproof and sealant for my house roof?
If polyurethane with a high % of closed cell, yes.
Does closed cell spray foam endure weight?
It helps exclude moisture and movement.
@@AlexHibbertOriginals thank you for reply. I actually misspelled “endure”. I’m wondering if it can hold a person walking over it. If the space that is filled will give way easily if underneath.
Certainly can. It's LD40 structural foam, which is a hell of a lot stronger than canned foam.
should've used soudal genius as it claims to be waterproof
Please do a Q&A live again.
Will do.
Alex, you need to repeat the test using salt water.
I don't think it'll have an effect overnight, but certainly for a long term, multi-month test it may indeed affect rotting potential.
It will definitely cause damage
Closed cell
Is that a demand, a question, or a compulsion?
sea foam
?
Alex, you totally failed on the MOST IMPORTANT Test of these spray foams for use in a boat......FIRE, FLAME, AND TOXIC SMOKE RATINGS...
I'm utterly shocked you did not think about the implications concerning the flammability and generation of profuse amounts of suffocating toxic smoke that those spray foams produce....
All PU foam burns and produces dangerous fumes. None of these will vary.
@@AlexHibbertOriginals ,
Great! Then why in heck would you install that in a boat for God's sake???
2 greatest causes of death on a boat A) Sinking/Drowning, B) Fire/Smoke inhalation...
Facts.....
If you do use that foam for positive buoyancy....find something else...
If for insulation...Rockwool...it's fire proof and water proof.
Take a moment to breathe and stop text-shouting.
Mineral wool is loose fibre, and not closed cell, so would wet out immediately. It would not maintain buoyancy.
Boats are made generally of wood or plastic resins. They are covered in paints, most of which are plastics. Most of these materials burn and produce dangerous gases like CO and NOx, at best. Only uncoated aluminium avoids this.
You are shouting at the entire maritime industry. Most designers accept the risk and try to mitigate it with fire fighting and escape methods.
@@AlexHibbertOriginals ,
No you are wrong again...
Rockwool comes in compressed panels trade name: Comfort Wall.
Water passes right through it,
Insects can not live in it, rats can not burrow into it,
Termites die in it.
Fire proof..can be glued on using Rockwool brand class 1 fire rated adhesive...
Spray expanding foam is a Death Wish by aphixiation...
"Accept the Risk"....no frigging way...have you seen what happens when spray foam catches fire???
The toxic smoke will kill you long before you get a chance to escape...and what about Cruising with young children and family pets??? They don't stand a chance...
As I said, go and shout at the entire maritime industry, where LD40 PU foam is widely used.
I did some scratching - have a look at the data sheet? It's been tested already - Water absorption (EN 29767) Ca. 0,23 kg/m² - Percentage closed cells (ISO4590) Ca. 81 % - www.soudal.co.uk/sites/default/files/soudal_api/document/F0031016_0001.pdf
Only a few foams publish data like that, and a real world test with broken/sliced foam is valuable.