Thank you! I stopped sewing for years because no pattern fit me. No joke. I didn't know about full bust adjustments until I found your channel. Thanks for all the fitting videos. It's a whole new sewing experience for me.
A comparison of original to the modified would be helpful (and very interesting to the simply curious who might not need the adjustment) Thanks for the video!
I am so happy to find your channel! It is really helping to take my sewing to the next level. I had never even heard of a full bust adjustment! It was like a revelation! A-ha! No wonder my patterns never fit quite right! Thank you!
I do something less effective but very quick, and I have only done it with woven non-stretch fabrics. I make the front of the garment 1.5" to 2" longer, and gently gather the top 4" to 5" of the side seam (under the arm) to a final measurement of 2.5" to 3.5", so the side seams joining the back and front of the bodice are the same length. It's not as smooth-looking as a dart, but it works to prevent "gaposis" without needing to struggle to get the dart positioned just right. I use a version of this technique to alter thrift-store men's dress shirts to fit me, as I am tall, have very wide shoulders, and a full bust, and off-the-rack women's shirts and blouses almost never fit me properly. Now, I have to figure out a better way to shorten the sleeves on those men's shirts. Like most women, my arms are shorter relative to my torso than most men's arms are, but recutting the bottom of a sleeve to re-insert into a standard dress-shirt cuff is well beyond my skills.
Awesome video, such clear explanations and camera work. Thanks for making videos that give confidence to a seamstress who has for many years taken the easy way out in terms of style to believe that she can make the styles she REALLY wants to wear and have them fit properly. We have a similar shape (although mine as, shall we say, more mature lines LOL - thicker round the midriff, where oh where did my waist go!) and i'm a couple of inches shorter. So it's great to see what works for your shape, I wore a 50s vintage shape to my daughters graduation a couple of years ago, it wasn't a silhouette I had ever worn and I was delighted how well it worked on me. You've definitely given me the confidence to get busy with the tape and French curve. Funnily enough I've looked at the Astoria and seen it on so many others and thought nope not for me but now I think I could actually make it work.
Thank you so much for your beautiful comment, Kate! I've definitely been in the same boat: shying away from certain styles because I thought they wouldn't work, when in reality it was a fit issue!! I'm so glad you're deciding to tackle this pattern, though. It really is such a comfortable basic and super fast to sew once the adjustments have been done. Would definitely recommend going after a 50% stretch knit for it, though. The pattern recommends 25%, but that's definitely not enough to go over The Girls if you want a snug fit like I do!
Vintage on Tap How do you know how do do all those changes?? It looked like a mess to me, but made such a difference in the end. Where do I start? Can you recommend a book for help?
That was freaking amazing, like a magic show. I'm about to do my very first FAN and watching as many tutorials as I can just to get the feel of this animal. Wow. That it the first fan on a knit that really did the job. Thanks a bunch! I love how comfortable you are just whipping the pattern around. Me, someday.
Thank you so very much for this video. I downloaded a PDF pattern it was a free pattern but it stated that you may need to make a full bust adjustment since it was based on a b size bust. I went ahead cut it out and made it and the fit was awful , a waste of time and fabric. I had no idea how to make a full bust adjustment on a tank top. After watching this video I will give it another go. Again thank you so very much.
I definitely understand about making a garment, only to find out that the fit is wayyy off! It happens to me more often than I like to admit 😔 BUT, so glad you stumbled on this video! Hope it works out for your next attempt at your tank top!
I watched your video and may have missed how you determined the amount to adjust the pattern. I've done fba but it seemed your approach was a bit complicated. I will watch again to better understand. Thanks.
Great job have done lots of fitting people with bust increase etc and it was great to see another way to get the same results and showing the finished garment and the finished top looks lovely on you
Love, Love, Loved!!! Absolutely wonderful tutorial! You have helped so many with this incredibly helpful video whether you realize it or not! You've literally saved a new design considered for my ETSY Shop. I salute you & your sewing skills. Thank you so much!!!
I loved that! I just wish you went a little slower and a little closer when closing the dart..but i loved it..i have been trying to alter tshirt patterns and i want to get away from a bust dart in a tshirt..i will save this and watch it agian..thank you for the help♡
I LOVE your tutorials on the fba! Like you, I am full busted-DD. I have been able to get the perfect fit in woven garments by dividing the huge dart to the shoulder and bottom-essentially having three smaller darts. In knits, I am struggling. I can ease in an inch or so at the side and neckline but I don’t like the “gathering” that happens. This was helpful to see you completely manipulate out the darts. Would you do a complete tutorial on a knit long sleeved T-shirt? I’d love to see how you manage a fitted long tshirt. Thank you again! Your tutorials are so clear and well done!
Thank you for posting this tutorial - it was brilliant. I will probably have to watch it several times to get it down pat though - there was a lot here to take in in one go :) I had seen something similar - taking the dart down to the waist but if the dart was too big, not all of it - leaving maybe an inch which would have to be "eased" in to match up with the back.
That could definitely be an option- not rotating the dart out completely as you said. I think you can definitely play with it a bit more- a lot of it really comes down to the style line and silhouette. As long as the extra "dart" is taken into account when dealing with the rest of the pattern, it should be fine.
Hi thanks for the tutorial it was great.......I love your style of teaching. I am struggling with a favourite dress that is now too small for me and wonder if you could advise how to make it bigger? It is cotton, striped and has a close fitting bodice which is sewn in gathers to a calf length skirt. It has a placket front from bodice right down to hem. I wondered how to maybe insert ? Lace or a floral fabric in the back so that I could fasten it at the front and it might fit again. Any ideas? Many thanks Carole
Have you a video on doing a FBA on waist only dart which is an empire line style? Or can you make one? The pattern is vogue 8382. I am having difficulty in redrafting one as the seam under the bust is scooped as opposed to straight. Hope you have some idea, many thanks.
Hi - video brilliant - wonder if you can help as I have a no dart pattern which needs to have the apex moved - but I just can't work it out as the apex on the master is to the centre of the top and my apex is lower down and nearer the arm hole side - many thanks b . Chelmsford
Do you have a video on how to alter a store-bought stretch knit top/tee that is too loose, to make it fit a large bust and small waist, aka curvy petite?
Thank you for the tutorial! Which measurement do you choose to base your pattern off of and adjust from to accommodate the bust but avoid gaping armholes?
I pick all my patterns based off my high bust (so the circumference directly under my armpits) to keep the integrity of the shoulder, neck, and armholes.
Question: to decide how many inches to add, do you pinch out the gaping part at the front armhole and use that as a measurement of how many inches to spread the cut pattern pieces?
Hi Bonnie! To determine how much to add, I measure the distance between the center front seam and my body's center front. I cover this step at timestamp 1:44 in the video.
Thanks so much for commenting, Maureen! As for the pleat above the bust-- I know for some people it doesn't bother them but for me, I feel soooo self conscious that I knew I had to find a way to correct this haha!!
I'm a sleeve aficionado, and your sleeve curve was already obtuse enough! If it was tight in the armcye, I'd adjust the bicep circumference at that point... raising it any more you'll end up with a rectangle for a sleeve.
+Raul Flores love that- sleeve aficionado 😍!! I actually lowered the armhole curve about 5/8in, then added that to the sleeve head. The sleeves themselves weren't tight- but the sleeve seam did end really tight into my armpit and dropping down that distance really did the trick for me.
Brilliant! I've not noticed this problem on anything I've yet made, but I've noticed that gaping & folding whenever I wear a shirt that was obviously not made with (large) breasts in mind. Unisex shirts, especially...cause no! Just because something is made large enough to fit around a given circumference, doesn't mean it will fit around well.
You hit the nail on the head!! A lot of regular t-shirts are just enlarged off a base pattern, with very little fitting involved ("the stretch of the fabric will take care of it!")-- but, that's not always the case!
That's probably the biggest problem in RTW Plus Size clothing. They have no consideration for proportion & fit. It's like they don't even know what a bust point is!
Yes and no. I think it really depends on the style of the garment- if you're working on a top with no darts (maybe like a sack top.) Most wovens will have a dart somewhere, though, just because they won't have the stretch taken into account during the drafting process, at which a regular and normal FBA would suffice.
Have you done a video taking your measurements and showing exactly how that translates to the FBA pivoting that you are doing. I didn't understand how you knew how much to pivot. I am a G/H bra cup size and I understand that any pattern I try to make will need to have an FBA, but I am still at a loss as to how to translate that to the pattern I am working on.
Hi Charlotte- I highly recommend watching my Anatomy of a Full Bust Adjustment video which breaks down the measurements more acutely. In the video, I discuss how the concept of an FBA works, so it makes it easier to follow this video later on. Hope it helps! th-cam.com/video/I7fPAFQ4brA/w-d-xo.html&lc=Ugz_PFxBb7_1Bm2V1oN4AaABAg
Do you have a video on what size pattern to start with and how do I know how much to add? My high bust is 38 and my full bust 42.5. Does that mean I add 4.5"? I gave up sewing because I can't figure out how to adjust the pattern and decided to tackle it once again.
Hi Karen! Unfortunately I don't have a video to address it (yet!) so definitely subscribe for when it comes down the pipes! But to answer your question, go with your high bust (38") and you'd actually add 2.25" (half of the 4.5") Since you're doing the FBA on half of the bodice, you only need to add half of the difference between high bust and full bust. Hope this helps!
VERY GOOD video Bianca! I'm studying more and more how to do proper adjustments on my patterns and this is another technique I need to learn. Because I am knew to doing more precise adjustments (not just simply expanding a seam line - LOL) this was confusing for me BUT this will be one of those videos that I'll save and watch probably a million times until I get it right. I love learning different techniques. Thanks so much as usual for putting out a great video.
Thanks so much for watching!! Doing the proper adjustments is definitely more time consuming- BUT- the happiness of an amazing fitting garment is sooooo fulfilling. Please don't hesitate to reach out if you have any questions! On rewatch I realized I could have slowed down more but you know how that goes hahaha!
Youre adding space to the pice by adding the dart, then trimming off the side to make it so you have the space in the pattern, but no longer need a dart there.
Hi Bianca, I really nailed the that, but I still get so.me gaping at the armhole and unusually I get a lot of excess fabric from the neckline to midway down my chest. I end up making a tuck to accommodate it. Just don't know where I'm going wrong. Any ideas??? Yours Marie
Hi Marie Dyde + That happened to me also... so I made a dart line from the neck to the apix as well, so I ended up with 3 darts...that were moved down to the waist..... I did this on a cotton blouse, with "V neck, no sleeves. It solved the problems, and with no darts....
thanks for the video. One question though (you'll see I'm a beginner): how do you know where to draw the line in the armhole. i get the middle ones, but not the armhole. Thanks
Hi Melinda! Stay tuned-- I should have a video up this coming weekend that answers this question specifically 💖 Though in general, quick answer, it's on the bottom 3rd of the armhole (which helps to not distort the shoulders)
So glad the video helped! Definitely test everything out on muslin fabric, though. ~3in is a large adjustment and it would be heartbreaking if the adjustment starts to warp other areas of the pattern.
No worries!! I did indeed perform a swayback as well as lengthening the bodice after this tutorial :) The swayback and lengthening is pretty straight forward, so I didn't cover them in this video, though. My updated pieces are over on my blog: vintageontap.com/no-dart-full-bust-adjustment-tutorial/ (though I just realized I have no photos from the back hahahaha)
what do you do about the upper chest and neckline. I adjust the bust, but I am baggy in the upper chest and neck. Between the shoulders, How do I fix that?
I would look into an adjustment called a "Hollow chest adjustment" and give that a shot. I haven't tried it personally (yet)-- but from my understanding it takes out some of the extra bagginess between the bust and collarbone area. Hopefully this helps!
JoSam + this happened to me and I drew a line from neckline to apix - a new dart - what they call "invisible darts"...so I ended up with 3 darts: bustline, armscye, and neckline, that were all sent down to the waistline dart. I did this on a cotton, sleevless, V-neck blouse, with the bottom as a bell.... I did have to reduce some of the opening down there to fit my upper-heap measurement... and adjust the length of course to match the back-side. hope this helps you.
The inches are added to increase the width of the area around the bust (directly adjacent to the arm scythe)-- however adding those inches to the waist would create a side seam that looks asymmetrical and wouldn't line up to the remaining pieces. If you complete the FBA process and compare a before and after, you'll see the new piece has widened, keeping the side seam tapered down naturally, rather than as a trapezoid.
A similar method I have used for years is easier. Mark the apex of your bust on your pattern (a pattern without darts). Draw a line from the outer shoulder point to the apex, draw another line from the underarm to the apex and draw a line from the bottom outer hem to the apex. Starting at the apex, cut the lines to the outer edge of the pattern BUT NOT THROUGH IT. Leave a hinge. Spread the pattern gently to open up the lines you cut. Fill in the openings and you are done. The sleeve size doesn't change and neither does the side seam length----just more fabric over the bust.
I just googled Kathy ruddy dartless bust adjustment, and there are images available that show this method clearly. Once I saw the diagrams I understood the method properly, this video got me interested in how to do this, but it looks as if this method you describe is even simpler. Thanks for explaining it!
Whoa! She draws a zillion lines and cuts up this pattern with no explanation at all! If you assume we know how to do a fba, tell us ! I found this tutorial to be no help at all.
Thank you! I stopped sewing for years because no pattern fit me. No joke. I didn't know about full bust adjustments until I found your channel. Thanks for all the fitting videos. It's a whole new sewing experience for me.
So happy the video helped! And so happy you've gone back to sewing!!
A comparison of original to the modified would be helpful (and very interesting to the simply curious who might not need the adjustment) Thanks for the video!
I am so happy to find your channel! It is really helping to take my sewing to the next level. I had never even heard of a full bust adjustment! It was like a revelation! A-ha! No wonder my patterns never fit quite right! Thank you!
Great video! A super helpful final step would be showing the original pieces compared to the final result. Thanks!
Ah ha!!! I knew about this I just never realized you could rotate the resulting dart all the way out! Mind blown. Thanks Bianca 😘
So glad it helped!
I do something less effective but very quick, and I have only done it with woven non-stretch fabrics. I make the front of the garment 1.5" to 2" longer, and gently gather the top 4" to 5" of the side seam (under the arm) to a final measurement of 2.5" to 3.5", so the side seams joining the back and front of the bodice are the same length. It's not as smooth-looking as a dart, but it works to prevent "gaposis" without needing to struggle to get the dart positioned just right.
I use a version of this technique to alter thrift-store men's dress shirts to fit me, as I am tall, have very wide shoulders, and a full bust, and off-the-rack women's shirts and blouses almost never fit me properly. Now, I have to figure out a better way to shorten the sleeves on those men's shirts. Like most women, my arms are shorter relative to my torso than most men's arms are, but recutting the bottom of a sleeve to re-insert into a standard dress-shirt cuff is well beyond my skills.
Awesome video, such clear explanations and camera work. Thanks for making videos that give confidence to a seamstress who has for many years taken the easy way out in terms of style to believe that she can make the styles she REALLY wants to wear and have them fit properly. We have a similar shape (although mine as, shall we say, more mature lines LOL - thicker round the midriff, where oh where did my waist go!) and i'm a couple of inches shorter. So it's great to see what works for your shape, I wore a 50s vintage shape to my daughters graduation a couple of years ago, it wasn't a silhouette I had ever worn and I was delighted how well it worked on me. You've definitely given me the confidence to get busy with the tape and French curve. Funnily enough I've looked at the Astoria and seen it on so many others and thought nope not for me but now I think I could actually make it work.
Thank you so much for your beautiful comment, Kate! I've definitely been in the same boat: shying away from certain styles because I thought they wouldn't work, when in reality it was a fit issue!! I'm so glad you're deciding to tackle this pattern, though. It really is such a comfortable basic and super fast to sew once the adjustments have been done. Would definitely recommend going after a 50% stretch knit for it, though. The pattern recommends 25%, but that's definitely not enough to go over The Girls if you want a snug fit like I do!
Vintage on Tap How do you know how do do all those changes?? It looked like a mess to me, but made such a difference in the end. Where do I start? Can you recommend a book for help?
That was freaking amazing, like a magic show. I'm about to do my very first FAN and watching as many tutorials as I can just to get the feel of this animal. Wow. That it the first fan on a knit that really did the job. Thanks a bunch! I love how comfortable you are just whipping the pattern around. Me, someday.
Thanks for all of your videos. I was static to recently see you back, as beautiful as ever. A big hug to you from New Jersey.
Thank you so very much for this video. I downloaded a PDF pattern it was a free pattern but it stated that you may need to make a full bust adjustment since it was based on a b size bust. I went ahead cut it out and made it and the fit was awful , a waste of time and fabric. I had no idea how to make a full bust adjustment on a tank top. After watching this video I will give it another go. Again thank you so very much.
I definitely understand about making a garment, only to find out that the fit is wayyy off! It happens to me more often than I like to admit 😔 BUT, so glad you stumbled on this video! Hope it works out for your next attempt at your tank top!
I watched your video and may have missed how you determined the amount to adjust the pattern. I've done fba but it seemed your approach was a bit complicated. I will watch again to better understand. Thanks.
Great job have done lots of fitting people with bust increase etc and it was great to see another way to get the same results and showing the finished garment and the finished top looks lovely on you
Thanks so much for watching and commenting! I can imagine there may be another solution to this fitting problem-- but whatever gets the job done!
Love, Love, Loved!!!
Absolutely wonderful tutorial!
You have helped so many with this incredibly helpful video whether you realize it or not!
You've literally saved a new design considered for my ETSY Shop.
I salute you & your sewing skills.
Thank you so much!!!
I'm so glad this video was helpful! Definitely there are times when even I revisit this just to refresh my memory for new things I sew!
Thank you for the great video. Your finished top fits very well. I have used a slightly different method, but yours is quicker. Thank you
great tutorial! How would you proceed to do a low bust adjustment on a knit dartless garment?
OMG! This is Ah-mazing. I think this is gold. I am very large in the bust, as are you. I think I can do this to eliminate the lousy bust darts.
What a TERRIFIC strategy!! Thank you. Can't seem to wrap my brain around the "physics" of Why it works, but I canNOT wait to try it :)
Where have you been all my life! Wonderful video. Thank you from one full bust to another!
Lori.
Thank you so much, Lori!
I loved that! I just wish you went a little slower and a little closer when closing the dart..but i loved it..i have been trying to alter tshirt patterns and i want to get away from a bust dart in a tshirt..i will save this and watch it agian..thank you for the help♡
I LOVE your tutorials on the fba! Like you, I am full busted-DD. I have been able to get the perfect fit in woven garments by dividing the huge dart to the shoulder and bottom-essentially having three smaller darts. In knits, I am struggling. I can ease in an inch or so at the side and neckline but I don’t like the “gathering” that happens. This was helpful to see you completely manipulate out the darts. Would you do a complete tutorial on a knit long sleeved T-shirt? I’d love to see how you manage a fitted long tshirt. Thank you again! Your tutorials are so clear and well done!
Thank you so much for sharing this method! it will completely change the way i make my adjustments!
Thankyou for this. I will now try on my tee shirts to see if I need to do one.
Thanks so much for watching-- Hopefully it helps for your self-made t-shirts!
Thank you for posting this tutorial - it was brilliant. I will probably have to watch it several times to get it down pat though - there was a lot here to take in in one go :) I had seen something similar - taking the dart down to the waist but if the dart was too big, not all of it - leaving maybe an inch which would have to be "eased" in to match up with the back.
That could definitely be an option- not rotating the dart out completely as you said. I think you can definitely play with it a bit more- a lot of it really comes down to the style line and silhouette. As long as the extra "dart" is taken into account when dealing with the rest of the pattern, it should be fine.
Hi thanks for the tutorial it was great.......I love your style of teaching. I am struggling with a favourite dress that is now too small for me and wonder if you could advise how to make it bigger? It is cotton, striped and has a close fitting bodice which is sewn in gathers to a calf length skirt. It has a placket front from bodice right down to hem. I wondered how to maybe insert ? Lace or a floral fabric in the back so that I could fasten it at the front and it might fit again. Any ideas? Many thanks Carole
Have you a video on doing a FBA on waist only dart which is an empire line style? Or can you make one? The pattern is vogue 8382. I am having difficulty in redrafting one as the seam under the bust is scooped as opposed to straight. Hope you have some idea, many thanks.
Hi - video brilliant - wonder if you can help as I have a no dart pattern which needs to have the apex moved - but I just can't work it out as the apex on the master is to the centre of the top and my apex is lower down and nearer the arm hole side - many thanks b . Chelmsford
Do you have a video on how to alter a store-bought stretch knit top/tee that is too loose, to make it fit a large bust and small waist, aka curvy petite?
oh brilliant! i didnt know you could do that...i always just nip in the waist but still leaves garment not right at armpit. tfs:)
Haha glad you found the video useful! I personally hadn't considered looking into this until I kept experiencing the weird pulling!
Great video! I always learn new things from you.
I'm so glad, Ashley!! Thanks for watching!
Super im trying to do this to a dress top with gathers instead of darts ...thank you
Its the sewoverit penny dress
Thank you for the tutorial! Which measurement do you choose to base your pattern off of and adjust from to accommodate the bust but avoid gaping armholes?
I pick all my patterns based off my high bust (so the circumference directly under my armpits) to keep the integrity of the shoulder, neck, and armholes.
Very Interesting! I need similar adjustments to my patterns and this made total sense to me. Thanks!
So glad the video helped! I get a lot of questions about it and when it comes to some pattern adjustments, you just gotta play with it haha
Question: to decide how many inches to add, do you pinch out the gaping part at the front armhole and use that as a measurement of how many inches to spread the cut pattern pieces?
Hi Bonnie! To determine how much to add, I measure the distance between the center front seam and my body's center front. I cover this step at timestamp 1:44 in the video.
Brilliant.ive had the problem with the pleating above the bust and didn't realise you could correct this way.More of anything ,please
Thanks so much for commenting, Maureen! As for the pleat above the bust-- I know for some people it doesn't bother them but for me, I feel soooo self conscious that I knew I had to find a way to correct this haha!!
great quick and so nicely explained
I'm a sleeve aficionado, and your sleeve curve was already obtuse enough! If it was tight in the armcye, I'd adjust the bicep circumference at that point... raising it any more you'll end up with a rectangle for a sleeve.
+Raul Flores love that- sleeve aficionado 😍!!
I actually lowered the armhole curve about 5/8in, then added that to the sleeve head. The sleeves themselves weren't tight- but the sleeve seam did end really tight into my armpit and dropping down that distance really did the trick for me.
thank you that was very informative. just what I needed.
So glad it helped out, Allison!
Brilliant! I've not noticed this problem on anything I've yet made, but I've noticed that gaping & folding whenever I wear a shirt that was obviously not made with (large) breasts in mind. Unisex shirts, especially...cause no! Just because something is made large enough to fit around a given circumference, doesn't mean it will fit around well.
You hit the nail on the head!! A lot of regular t-shirts are just enlarged off a base pattern, with very little fitting involved ("the stretch of the fabric will take care of it!")-- but, that's not always the case!
That's probably the biggest problem in RTW Plus Size clothing. They have no consideration for proportion & fit. It's like they don't even know what a bust point is!
Oi- don't get me started! I can rant about this until the cows come home hahahaha!
excellent tutorial thank you so much!
Thanks for watching, Sonia :)
Yea! Can’t wait!
Great Video best one I have seen, I will have to watch it a few times lol before it all sinks in but I will be trying this it, many thanks Penny M
Thanks so much for watching, Penny! So glad you found it useful!
Does this method work for woven fabrics too?
Yes and no. I think it really depends on the style of the garment- if you're working on a top with no darts (maybe like a sack top.) Most wovens will have a dart somewhere, though, just because they won't have the stretch taken into account during the drafting process, at which a regular and normal FBA would suffice.
Have you done a video taking your measurements and showing exactly how that translates to the FBA pivoting that you are doing. I didn't understand how you knew how much to pivot. I am a G/H bra cup size and I understand that any pattern I try to make will need to have an FBA, but I am still at a loss as to how to translate that to the pattern I am working on.
Hi Charlotte- I highly recommend watching my Anatomy of a Full Bust Adjustment video which breaks down the measurements more acutely. In the video, I discuss how the concept of an FBA works, so it makes it easier to follow this video later on. Hope it helps! th-cam.com/video/I7fPAFQ4brA/w-d-xo.html&lc=Ugz_PFxBb7_1Bm2V1oN4AaABAg
Do you have a video on what size pattern to start with and how do I know how much to add? My high bust is 38 and my full bust 42.5. Does that mean I add 4.5"? I gave up sewing because I can't figure out how to adjust the pattern and decided to tackle it once again.
Hi Karen! Unfortunately I don't have a video to address it (yet!) so definitely subscribe for when it comes down the pipes!
But to answer your question, go with your high bust (38") and you'd actually add 2.25" (half of the 4.5") Since you're doing the FBA on half of the bodice, you only need to add half of the difference between high bust and full bust.
Hope this helps!
You are Amazing! I love to watch your videos!😊
Thanks so much! I really appreciate it 💖
@@VintageonTap 💖
I love all of your videos. I have a similar body shape as you so it's super helpful
So glad the vid was useful! I know resources for people our size can sometimes be tricky to find!
VERY GOOD video Bianca! I'm studying more and more how to do proper adjustments on my patterns and this is another technique I need to learn. Because I am knew to doing more precise adjustments (not just simply expanding a seam line - LOL) this was confusing for me BUT this will be one of those videos that I'll save and watch probably a million times until I get it right. I love learning different techniques. Thanks so much as usual for putting out a great video.
Thanks so much for watching!! Doing the proper adjustments is definitely more time consuming- BUT- the happiness of an amazing fitting garment is sooooo fulfilling. Please don't hesitate to reach out if you have any questions! On rewatch I realized I could have slowed down more but you know how that goes hahaha!
Wow! Thank you!!
awesome! this is always a must for me, thank you 😊
So glad the video was useful for you!
How did we go from no dart to adjusting a dart & re-arranging it? #Confused
You are creating a temporary dart to add width for the FBA, and then removing it by closing it out once the enlargement has been completed.
Youre adding space to the pice by adding the dart, then trimming off the side to make it so you have the space in the pattern, but no longer need a dart there.
It’s been 6 months since you made a video. Will you be making more?
Hey Cindy! Good news is that videos are coming soon! I'm currently uploading more that will make their appearance before you know it!
Hi Bianca, I really nailed the that, but I still get so.me gaping at the armhole and unusually I get a lot of excess fabric from the neckline to midway down my chest. I end up making a tuck to accommodate it. Just don't know where I'm going wrong. Any ideas??? Yours Marie
Hi Marie Dyde + That happened to me also... so I made a dart line from the neck to the apix as well, so I ended up with 3 darts...that were moved down to the waist..... I did this on a cotton blouse, with "V neck, no sleeves. It solved the problems, and with no darts....
I forgot to add, that the bottom of the blouse is like the bell.. it looks nice. I just had to fit it to my upper-hip measurement.
thanks for the video. One question though (you'll see I'm a beginner): how do you know where to draw the line in the armhole. i get the middle ones, but not the armhole. Thanks
Hi Melinda! Stay tuned-- I should have a video up this coming weekend that answers this question specifically 💖 Though in general, quick answer, it's on the bottom 3rd of the armhole (which helps to not distort the shoulders)
This is great. I have a bunch of clothing that need a big adjustment (2,95 inches)
So glad the video helped! Definitely test everything out on muslin fabric, though. ~3in is a large adjustment and it would be heartbreaking if the adjustment starts to warp other areas of the pattern.
I will, thank you
very good video.
Mind blown. I have a question though about the back... CB seems longer almost as if a sway back adjustment is needed? Oh my head hurts lol
No worries!! I did indeed perform a swayback as well as lengthening the bodice after this tutorial :) The swayback and lengthening is pretty straight forward, so I didn't cover them in this video, though. My updated pieces are over on my blog: vintageontap.com/no-dart-full-bust-adjustment-tutorial/ (though I just realized I have no photos from the back hahahaha)
nice video......job well done!
Thank you, Charlene!
great video .
Thank you, Lindy Lou!
Hi where was your knit fabric from the one you used to make the muslin? Thanks xx
The knit used for the muslins was picked up at the Joann's clearance rack!
Thanks for letting me know xx
I would love to follow a sewing course!
I live in France be my guest in exchange for a sewing course!
what do you do about the upper chest and neckline. I adjust the bust, but I am baggy in the upper chest and neck. Between the shoulders, How do I fix that?
I would look into an adjustment called a "Hollow chest adjustment" and give that a shot. I haven't tried it personally (yet)-- but from my understanding it takes out some of the extra bagginess between the bust and collarbone area. Hopefully this helps!
JoSam + this happened to me and I drew a line from neckline to apix - a new dart - what they call "invisible darts"...so I ended up with 3 darts: bustline, armscye, and neckline, that were all sent down to the waistline dart.
I did this on a cotton, sleevless, V-neck blouse, with the bottom as a bell.... I did have to reduce some of the opening down there to fit my upper-heap measurement... and adjust the length of course to match the back-side.
hope this helps you.
Look's like magic :D
Hey, if it works, it works!
I wish the music were not so loud. It was too distracting to understand what you were saying.
Body measurements n draw n sew show us.
This is cool. But it would make the back piece much too long!
I don't see a 3" difference.
Also, after we do all that cutting & pasting & spreading to add inches THEN take off 3" from the side seam?? Huh?
The inches are added to increase the width of the area around the bust (directly adjacent to the arm scythe)-- however adding those inches to the waist would create a side seam that looks asymmetrical and wouldn't line up to the remaining pieces.
If you complete the FBA process and compare a before and after, you'll see the new piece has widened, keeping the side seam tapered down naturally, rather than as a trapezoid.
I don't know what are you doing here :/
I'm more than happy to answer any specific questions you might have.
I will have to watch this again but dang you are adorable. BTW there is no “th” in armscye.
A similar method I have used for years is easier. Mark the apex of your bust on your pattern (a pattern without darts). Draw a line from the outer shoulder point to the apex, draw another line from the underarm to the apex and draw a line from the bottom outer hem to the apex. Starting at the apex, cut the lines to the outer edge of the pattern BUT NOT THROUGH IT. Leave a hinge. Spread the pattern gently to open up the lines you cut. Fill in the openings and you are done. The sleeve size doesn't change and neither does the side seam length----just more fabric over the bust.
Thanks for the tip! I'll have to try that later. Is there a diagram out there for me to view those instructions drawn out?
I learned this from a booklet by Kathy Ruddy. Haven' t look to see if it is available on line.
Brilliant. Can't wait to try this. the video is excellent and will give excellent results, but this is it in a nutshell and quite a lot simpler.
I just googled Kathy ruddy dartless bust adjustment, and there are images available that show this method clearly. Once I saw the diagrams I understood the method properly, this video got me interested in how to do this, but it looks as if this method you describe is even simpler. Thanks for explaining it!
Pretty bra.....
Whoa! She draws a zillion lines and cuts up this pattern with no explanation at all! If you assume we know how to do a fba, tell us ! I found this tutorial to be no help at all.