Anatomy of a Full Bust Adjustment | Vintage on Tap
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 17 ต.ค. 2024
- This video teaches you HOW a full bust adjustment works, along with showing you the basics on how to complete one!
Learn why the adjustment works the way it does, so you are able to replicate the adjustments on your home sewn garments.
In this video we also discuss the three lines that are needed for the adjustment, including:
✨Line One: The line bisecting the bust dart, allowing it to create a larger dart.
✨Line Two: The line from hem to bust point, allowing the pattern piece to spread to add additional bust width.
✨Line Three: The line that goes straight to the armpit, allowing there to be additional space next to the bust.
I walk you through how each of these lines work, so that you can work through them at home!
For more information about these instructions, be sure to check out my blog post about this video:
vintageontap.c...
--
✨Follow Me on All The Places (And All the Stuff!)✨
Website: www.vintageont...
Instagram: / vintageontap
Newsletter: www.vintageont...
Subscribe!: bit.ly/2fGkOeV
👚
The blouse I'm wearing is the Gertie Rita peasant top! This pattern is available for purchase on Gertie's website.
✨
Like what you see? Consider becoming a patron on Patreon!
/ vintageontap
👗
New to sewing? Check out the START HERE page!
vintageontap.c...
✨About✨
Vintage on Tap is a TH-cam channel dedicated to inspiring you to sew your own handmade clothing. Videos focus on discussions about sewing self esteem as well as the technical aspects of making handmade clothes fit your body, specializing in vintage and pinup sewing.
✨Work With Us!✨
Collaborations, partnerships, and business requests can be sent to bianca@vintageontap.com
This wasvery helpful in explaining 2hat the 'cut' to thepattern piece was doing for example exlpaining the difference in length of side and CF not smoothly fitting over the bust.
Thank you!
Thank you for your video. After watching various different video's you were the first to answer the changes to the armscyle. Having to do a 2" adjustment it changed dramatically and I couldn't work out what to do. You confirmed my assumption of drawing a new curve. I really appreciate this x
Excellent tutorial! Thanks.
first one of your videos I've seen, will be subscribing and watching more, Thank You for sharing
Thanks for explaining why we cut into the armscye in that lower 1/3. As always, great video!
Thank you for watching, Annette!
Excellent demonstration- and clear explanations on making a FBA!
I don't normally comment but this was so helpful. Even first 2 minutes. Subscribed
So happy the video helped!
YES!!! Thank you!
Thank you for the tutorial. My question is what about the apex. With the adjustment you lowered the apex which changes the dart. Shouldn’t you do a replacement of the dart to meet up with your original apex?
Well shown and explained! Esp the need for length down center front. Pivot and slide bust adj. don’t provide that extra length.
Another great explanation. I refer people to your videos often on FBAs😊
Thank you so much for doing that!! I absolutely appreciate it.
Thanks for the video, now I understood the anatamoy of full adjustment. Again one doubt, after full adjustment that armhole become shorter isn't it? or it is very minimal? Another thing after this FBA,the drat become big and adding one on waist line and one on middle bustline or still only one big?
Your explanation is terrific. I can wait to try it. so needed!!!!
This was great!
thank you for all your details.
Hope this is not a crazy question. Can you add a dart without doing fba so the waist does not become too big ? Thank you.
Will you please demonstrate and explain how to make a full bust enlargement on a dress with a princess seam which starts at the shoulder? I’m struggling to manipulate my pattern in order to make it fit my body shape. Do I focus on only the area between the shoulder to the waist on a pattern where the pieces go beyond the waist and down to the hem?
Thanks in anticipation 🦋
Hi from the UK, Thank you for the explanation of the FBA, what i dont understand is how does that then attach to the back bodice? Surely the front is now longer than the back. Many thanks.
Hi Lisa- Thanks for your comment! While the front of the bodice has lengthened to accommodate the dart, the side seam hasn't changed! If you close up the dart and measure it up against the side seam of the back piece, they should be the same size.
@@VintageonTap hi, thank you for your reply. Yes I understand now. Many thanks 😊 .
Hello, i have just found youre channel this week and done my 1 st FBA following youre videos, happy new year and congratulations on youre wedding.
Thank you!!
Bianca this is a great video to understand how to adjust the bust area to make the outfit fit you. Thank you for your knowledge and sharing this with me and others have a great weekend. I completely forgot happy thanksgiving for yesterday 😊😊
I hope you had a great holiday, too! And so glad that the video was useful. I know it was nothing but fundamentals, but looking back on when I first started doing FBAs, I wish I had understood this early on!
That was tremendously helpful, Bianca! Thank you!
Thanks so much for watching!
Very thorough and concise explanation. Thank you
Tried this after watching your videos. Works a treat. Thank you. 😊
Yey!! It makes me so happy that it helped out!
Newbie to your content. You're so thorough and good at explaining the information. Thanks! How would you size down the bust?
Called a small bust adjustment. Lots of videos on that also. Similar adjustments but moving slash openings toward center rather than away from center.
Thank you!!!!!
THANK YOU!
Thanks a lot for sharing your knowledge❤ it is really very helpful☺ Love from India. Please tell the use of that grey board😊
The pattern I am trying to adjust is a one shoulder with only a dart from the waist up. I think it also needs a side dart but I do not know how to make one. My granddaughter is a size 10 everywhere but her bustline. Ideas?
Do you make fba adjustment on coats or blazers and can you please show the technique?
Is a full bust adjustment the same as enlarging the bust dart?
It's both enlarging the bust dart but also increasing the width and depth of the area around the bust, to accommodate a fuller shape overall. Great question!
This would add to the waist too correct? How would you get it back down to the proper size to match with like a skirt on a dress? Would you just add another dart?
You are correct!! The waist can be adjusted back down in 2 ways:
1- Add a dart coming up from Line Two, 1-2" from the bust point (depending on how much you added for your FBA)
2- Take out a chunk from the side seam, under the dart, using your French curve to blend it to match the corresponding skirt + true the side seam to the bodice back side seam.
Pending the style and fit you're looking for in the garment, select which of the two work for you.
@@VintageonTap thanks ❤️😊
Hi, how would you adjust back piece to match up
Great video, Thankyou.
How do I fix a gaping in front of arm hole?
Is this a full bust adjustment or a sway back?
Great video 😉
I'm still new to sewing. Do you pick patterns that fits other parts of your body and then do a FBA. Or do you pick top pattern using your full bust measurement or high bust measurement?
Hey! Sorry to get back to you so late. I usually pick by the upper bust measurement, and then do adjustment to the rest afterwards. The hardest part to fit is usually the upper bust/shoulder/neck area, so I like to get that part right and adjust the rest which are a lot easier to deal with!
EMERGENCY QUESTION!!!!
I'm making a queincenera dress. What do you suggest I make the bodice out of? I have no clue except sayin. Please help!! Btw I live how helpful your videos are!!💙💙💙
Sorry to get back to you so late! Hope it went well with the Quinceniera!
@@VintageonTap the 15 is in a few more months. Havnt started on the dress either.
does it not lengthen the waist tho ?:-( I have issues with my basic bodice block bc I'm a 38inches bust for a 29 1/2 inches waist and my body is weirdly not proportionate enough to apply the usual pattern making techniques ;( I haven't sewn my sloper yet tho so don't really know how I will have to modify it exactly just watching videos to learn stuff!
it shouldn't work out longer.
That extra fabric is used to cover the surface area of your boob.
If you've got really big boobs like me then you're familiar with your shirts being shorter in the front than they are in the back
Hi I am confused about what happens if the front pattern piece is one whole piece rather than half that you place on the fold. Would you fold the pattern piece in half then cut it to make the adjustment. I hope this doesn't sound too confusing 😊
Me
Excellent
Great video, it is beginning to make sense to this beginner garment sewer.
So happy the video helped!
Ma'am, Can you please explain me , how it's going to work on fabric please give me some idea thanks, thank you so much
I've never done a full bust adjustment before but am I understanding it correct that you don't need to redraw the dart in this particular pattern piece? It moved down and away from the bust point, it isn't lined up nicely anymore. Or is this something that you need to figure out when you are making the mock ups?
You do have to redraw the dart. After you've put paper behind the holes you've made in the pattern, redraw the dart by making a new dart point in the middle of the dart right at the top, and joining that up to the ends of the dart. It won't be very different, than it was to begin with.
Thanks so much for answering this, Hannah!! The dart definitely changes, but the bust point should be the same. Also take into account, though, that the dart point SHOULD end (based on cup size) 1-2" from the bust point.
(Though on a personal note, my bust points tend to fit me better when they are 1/2- 1" from the bust point, just because of the shape :O! It's going to be different for everyone.)
Thank you so much for helping me out!
@@VintageonTap Thanks a lot for the extra tip about where to end the dart point. These tips are very helpful for me!
This is good explanation to a point, but wished you had continued by using your adjusted pieces to then draw a new pattern piece including new dart placement.
I definitely recommend my FBA video tutorial playlist then 💖! This video meant more of an explanation of how the FBA works in theory. The playlist below has some real life examples (as well as the re-draw of the dart!) which I hope will help!
th-cam.com/play/PLDuLDPoYwFuXvEvJEH9GVuloeF_W6rbG1.html
As this would add 2” at the waist would you grade in or add waist darts?
You could actually do either one! Depending on the garment type, I would chose one over the other:
-Woven, fitted pieces, I'd go with the dart.
-Jersey, more comfy and casual pieces, I'd take out from the side seam.
Why isn’t it a problem that the armhole is so much smaller? I get that you use the French curve to smooth the line; but, do you not need the original hole to be the same size or shape?
Yes, you do have to redraw the armhole to the correct size. I think that is what she meant but just didn't detail it to well.
Hey! To your original question, the size of the armhole doesn't change, however its shape along the bottom does. If you measure the armhole seam line (draw the seam allowance along the bodice before doing the FBA) and measure the before and after, the size hasn't changed. The pivot point of the 3rd line drawn to the armhole is the stitch line, and it's the same throughout.
What to look out for instead, is that the shape of the new armhole along the bottom 3rd isn't insanely warped that your new sleeve won't fit. If it doesn't fit, blend the adjusted bodice piece's armhole to more accurately reflect the sleeve shape (but be sure to measure the stitch line on both to make sure they still match!)
Ya, there's sometimes a little bit of finagling to do between the post-FBA armhole to make sure it's smoother and closer to the original shape. But I'd do that redraw very incrementally, since most of the time, the new armhole works just fine! But definitely keep an eye out if you have a sleeve that needs to match.
I also have a problem with the armcye after the FBA. I added 1" FBA and there was a distortion in the armcye and I'm not sure how to correct this. I'm stuck on this simple pattern with a side dart. Please help!
One important issue:
The shape of the breasts and the « height » of the apex of the bust is different in different women.
For instance, as a 50-something mother of two, my D-cup bust point apex is 1 inch lower than on a « misses » pattern, even when it is one of those great « choose your own cup size » patterns.
Sometimes it is easier to get the bust apex correctly placed by doing the FBA on a regular pattern than it is to adjust the multi-cup patterns to my more matronly figure. I can’t use “Women’s” patterns because the rest of my figure is slim, and “womens” sizes will be too big everywhere else!
Thanks so much for your comment, Tina!! But yes, you are 100% right and it was something I completely forgot to address.
The height is a real measurement to consider in general. Mine tends to be lower as well, meaning my darts end up being little baby darts to accommodate haha
Thank you for sharing!
Yes.
The bust point is different in all woman. When. You draft your pattern you will be outing your apex point where yours is located.
Always have such a problem trying to fit into and tops as my boobs are so big.. I dont need to keep going up in size I just need to creat the prefect pattern which with your help I think I can do.. many thanks 😊
Hi
Can you please show me how to do full bust cup buster and how to small body big bust
Wya we miss yah
I'm still around! Videos are being filmed and set up for a relaunch, coming soon :D!