Pressure Washer Unloader Valves. Converting an Integral Unloader to an External K1 Unloader.
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 27 ก.พ. 2024
- #pressurewasher #pumps #interpump
In this video, I will show you how to convert an integral-style unloader to a flow-sensitive Interpump K1 external type.
This Annovi Reverberi pressure washer pump has an integral unloader valve; this utilises a loop bypass trapped pressure system, often leading to overheating and premature wear and failure of components.
This style of unloader retains the working pressure inside the hose, trigger and associated components, which makes the high-pressure hose rigid and more challenging to manage.
You eliminate all these issues by switching to an external flow-sensitive unloader valve. When releasing the trigger, water is diverted out of a bypass port. This can be re-fed into a water tank or diverted to a drain.
This type of valve also means fresh, cold water is circulating through the pump; thus, there is no risk of overheating.
🌟 We are Dirty Drive-Away, Bromley's (Kent) specialist driveway, patio & decking cleaning company. We bring exciting pressure washing, driveway cleaning, patio cleaning, general jet washing, and high-pressure cleaning videos to TH-cam. We aim to bring satisfying cleaning videos and informative how-to content for everyone to enjoy.
Recommended playlists
🔥 Patio Pressure Washing
th-cam.com/play/PL-.html...
🔥 Block Paved Driveways
th-cam.com/users/playlist?list...
🔥 Lichen Removal
th-cam.com/users/playlist?list...
🔔 We hope you like our videos; please give them a like. Please share any of our content and subscribe to our channel. Go to / dirtydriveaway and click the red box to subscribe.
You can also find us on Facebook and Instagram. This is where we showcase a lot of our work.
/ dirtydriveaway
/ dirtydriveaway
Website and work/quote enquiries
dirtydrive-away.co.uk/contact-us - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
Thanks Phil, need to do this on my little interpump
It's an excellent little conversion. It makes the washer so much more user-friendly.
Excellent videos and advice (I'm considering this as a new business). In your video, "Starting a Pressure Washing Business", you mention the importance of flow and pressure but then say you usually use only half pressure. Therefore, wouldn't it be cheaper to use a smaller engine for less pressure? I'm assuming an adequate pump, eg 35 lpm, could be connected to a smaller engine. but this may be incorrect. Keep up the good work.
Hi, no you can't fit a big pump to a smaller engine as the motor simply won't power it. For example the common GX390 engine is usually coupled with a 200bar @ 21lpm pump. Or it can be a 250bar @ 18lpm pump. However the motor is not strong enough to do 250bar @ 21lpm. The pump needs to be coupled to an adequate size engine. Although for run of the mill cleaning tasks using a flat nozzle I use reduced pressure/throttle, if I was cleaning block paving I would go max RPM especially when using a surface cleaner.
Do you still have full psi pressure with the bypass unloader?
Yes, you adjust the pressure using the bolt on top. Once set it's locked off with the lock nut. It only goes into bypass when the trigger is released. Using these kind of unloaders also eliminates the nasty kickback you can get when squeezing the trigger.
Great video, my question to you is if I put the new bypass unloader Ar model VRT-310 in front of the AR model RSV4G44 pump without doing what you showed us. Will it work ok if the original set to max pressure and new bypass one set lower? Or should I just bite the bullet and take the parts out.
In honesty, I don't think the new external unloader will work properly. Even if set to max pressure on the pump, the internal unloader may still want to bypass. The two unloaders will then counteract each other. I mean, it may work, but there could be a chance that the max setting on the unloader is the max the pump will run at, therefore the pump unloader will take priority. By blocking off the pump unloader, you effectively ensure that the external one works all the time. I've been running mine like the video all season, and it works great. You could try your way before committing and test it, although I fear you may end up with issues down the line.
Wow thanks for the quick reply. One other question if I do take out all that stuff the original pump has an easy start valve in their will that still work. I'm getting old lol and it's getting hard to pull start that big engine.
@mikef124 easy start isn't really needed with a flow sensitive unloader as there is no pressure in the hose. It's the pressure in the line that makes starting a pig. That's why if you don't have an easy start valve you have to pull the trigger to release the pressure when you pull start it. Seeing as the flow sensitive unloader removes all the pressure from the system it makes starting a breeze. Saying that the unloader you have chosen VRT310 Isnt flow sensitive. Your not really going to gain much by fitting that unloader hence why I recommend the K1. When using flow sensitive it makes starting easier and the hose is no longer rigid when you let off the trigger. You also don't get that nasty kick back when you squeeze the trigger.
Well sir, I took all the parts out that you had in your video had a heck of a time getting the orifice out, my parts were a little different than that model that you have their but I finally got it all back together and it works great the bypass was my main thing why I did this. Sometimes I walk away from the pressure washer while it's running and worry about the pump getting too hot. So thank you for this video is the best one out there on how to bypass the original unloader😊
@mikef124 glad it worked, yes so long as the water is dumping out you can leave the machine running as long as you want. If in the future you want to make your life easier, fit a K1. The difference in handling the hose is night and day.
Looking at doing the same on a clarke pls265b, 13hp 3263psi 16.5lpm machine and replacing with a k1. Obviously swapping the k1 in you lose the regulator for the pressure, ive been told that with a k1 installed the best way to lower the pressure when you dont need it full is to just back off the throttle? Or is there another way to do it?
The best way to lower pressure without sacrificing flow rate is to use larger size nozzles. If you back the throttle off yes the pressure drops but so does the water flow. If you don't need all the water flow then yes by all means drop the revs down a tad. If however your finding that you don't have enough water flow then it's best to keep the revs up and use larger nozzles.
@DirtyDriveAway does the same apply to turbo nozzles? Would the correct nozzle for rinsing/chemical application(largest angle) be okay or should I get larger ones too (sets of the colours you get, worked out my correct turbo nozzle as 4.5 when looking at getting a suttner 357.1?
@Simmons2193 so the actual output of your machine will vary depending if your feeding it from a tap or suction feed from a barrel. The max operating pressure on main feed is 207bar @ 16.5lpm providing the garden tap is supplying that amount of water. If its barrel fed then it's 200bar @13.5lpm. I would base your max pressure on around the 200bar mark. How are you feeding your washer.
@Simmons2193 using a turbo nozzle you really want it on full power. If all you have is 200bar ish anything less and it won't really work too well.
@DirtyDriveAway as far as I know 225ish bar is peak, and will be a buffer tank from customers feed as soon as I arrive, so predominantly suction/gravity fed, smaller jobs may use just customers feed but 90% of the tike will be buffer tank
Thanks so much, with your help, i modified mine and everything went well. 2 questions please.
1. when i set the unloader, i did it with white tip for around 2500 PSI, then when i changed the tip to Dewalt turbo nozzle, the PSI jumped to 3000 psi.. is that normal.. in otherwords, what size tip should i choose to set the PSI on unloader.
2. i removed pressure washer thermal relief valve and put a plug.. I assume for our setup thermal relief valve is no longer needed right.
Appreciate your help, cant thank enough and i dont thing, any body in youtube explained this better.
1. You need to use a nozzle that is the correct size for the pressure and flow rate of the machine. The coloured tips are often not supplied to spec and thus don't always produce full pressure. My machine is 3000psi at 10lpm and uses a size 030 nozzle. This nozzle will give me the correct size to achieve 3000psi at 10lpm. The unloader is set by this nozzle size on my machine.
The thermal relief valve is no longer needed as it would never get hit enough to work. Removing it is not an issue. If you let me know your psi and flow rate of the pump I can tell you the correct size nozzle.
@@DirtyDriveAway Thanks again. Mine is 3000 PSI with 2GPM which comes to same as your which is 3.0.. Question to you.1. if i use 3.0 orfice as per the chart, I assume whether i use 0 degree or 15 or 45 degree doesnt matter right ?.. 2. when i set K1 unloader valve, i was told that TO DIAL it clockwise, then i should dial anticlock wise until the water in bypass is drippling WITH HANDLE / TRIGGER OFF .. is that right.
@sivucit if yours is the same then yes an 030 is the right size nozzle. Angle doesn't matter but I typically setup unloaders with a 15degree. If you have a gauge fitted and the correct nozzle increase the pressure on the unloader until it gets to 200bar/3000psi. Yes you should still have a dribble of water coming out the bypass when you have the trigger pulled. You won't see it if you have a hose connected so you'll need to monitor it straight from the unloader. Once you release the trigger the K1 will go into bypass and dump all the water out the bottom of the unloader. So when your working and have the trigger pulled and pressure/water coming from the nozzle you should still have a dribble coming out the bypass port.
@@DirtyDriveAway Thanks so much for all your help. Last Q, K1 is flow control unloader valve. What you have before the one that comes with unit is pressure trap unloader valve, in case of pressure trap unloader valve, do we set the PSI in unloader the same way as K1 (flow control unloader valve) except the bypass part (becaise it has internla bypass)
@sivucit yes, it just reacts to the change in water flow. I.e when you let off the trigger it knows that flow has stopped and opens the bypass port. In a pressure sensitive it acts to the increase in pressure. The downside to trapped pressure is that it holds working pressure in the hose and thus keeps the hose rigid and the trigger and connections etc under constant pressure. You also get that nasty kickback when you squeeze the trigger and harder starting with trapped pressure.
at 16:14 rather than putting a screw on that seat, can i simply dial down the unloader all the way to bottom
No, I don't think so. Dialling down will probably still cause the unloader to operate at a specific pressure. This will then cause issues with the external unloader. I'm not 100% certain as simply dialling it right down isn't really the best method as your not technically isolating the integral bypass chamber. You could try it, but you don't want the 2 unloaders conflicting with each other. That's why it's best to just completely isolate the internal valve. This way, you know the external valve will do the work properly.
I am planning to do the exactly same thing on my AR pump. can you please give me amazon link in USA for parts especially i need unloader valve, pressure gauge. swivel connector, i prefer 3/8" if possible
You'll need to source the unloader from a pressure washer parts supplier. I'm not in the USA so wouldn't know where to get them.
Hi at 12.45 the one that you are removing, is that a starter jet.
It's what governs the pressure, without it the unloader has a hard time knowing when to go in and out of bypass. It's combined with the shutter jet to close off the outlet and thus build the pressure to bypass the water. Since this is installed in the external unloader there is no need for it.
@@DirtyDriveAway Thanks much, my AR pump 3g30 have easy start valve basically when u pull the gas engine cord, it move some of the pressure to low side(Garden hose) , now if we are plugging the gap between low andd high side, that easy start valve is of no use ... is that right.?.. 2. can i assume that K1 extenral unloader will bypass the water to outside while pulling the cord on gas engine.. appreciate your help
@sivucit yes the ezstart valve releases some of the pressure in the pump whilst you start the motor. The K1 will dump the water out the bottom, I run this to a drain on this washer as I don't feed it from a tank. The K1 unloader makes the whole machine easier to start and operate.
@@DirtyDriveAway Thanks, since we stopped the gap between high and low side using that m6 screw, easy start will never work fand water cant go from high to low sidde.. can i remove that easy start because i am thinking K1 will do the easy start work , is my assumption right
@sivucit the K1 doesn't have a built in ezstart per se, but because it doesn't trap pressure in the system it makes starting as easy as if it did have ezstart. Mine doesn't have the ezstart valve so I just pull the trigger on the gun when pulling the start cord. I don't need to do that with the K1, I just pull and it starts.
Would a k1 affect the soap draw from my injector?
Yes it would as your not supposed to draw soap before the unloader only after. Drawing soap/chem pre unloader will just gunk it up and end up with premature failure. You would have to fit another dowmstream injector after the unloader if you intended to use it. I dont use it hence why I plugged it off.
@@DirtyDriveAway thanks for replying.i have a built-in unloader (you can't remove it)can I add the k1 with quick connects?