Derek, Thank you for another amazing video. I have finally ordered my badger brushes this morning from Jacksons’s art supply (London) as Amazon continues to be out of stock. Your videos are as artful and amazing as your glass work. I loved the luminous blue light of this video. Cheers and thank you again from our foggy Mendocino coast
The link to porcupine quills says they're unavailable and they don't know when or if they'll be back in stock. But there are vendors on eBay selling them for almost nothing as craft items and fishing floats (must be for VERY small fish!) so that's good. I like the idea of using a thin black wash first so you can see to scratch out the letters, then firing it to fix them before going deep black for a second firing. My past attempts to do it all in one go have had mixed success at best!
Another fantastic informative how to video, thank you so much for sharing this information, did you use a resist for the lines? it looked as if the paint was repelled from theses lines when you were painting the wash.
Fantastic videos, Derek. I enjoy watching all your tutorials. Question: At 5:45 into this video, it appears there is a resist that preventing the paint from spreading into the three horizontal columns as you apply paint with your applicator brush. What are you doing to keep the paint where you want it? Thanks!
Really useful video as always thanks. It would be great if you could perhaps in the future do a quick video on firing and what schedule and temp etc you should use. I normally fuse glass , but I’m assuming you don’t need to hold at the anneal temperature if just firing Reuche paints onto the glass?
Hi Carol, I usually fire Reusche paints straight up to 650 degrees centigrade and soak for 5 minutes at that temperature, then switch off the kiln and allow to cool naturally.
Hi Derek, thanks for the great video..I'm wondering which badger blender you have, pls ? . I didn't see those with acrylic ferrule . Thanks & best wishes.
Welp, I’ve been asked that question before and unfortunately I can’t answer as I’ve had it for many years and can’t remember who the supplier was - sorry.
I sign my stain glass work by dremmell or by acid cream but I whil try to put gold on BUT gold need porus suface do you have a special technic for putting gols on my sign eaching I plan to put over some glass like the one use for microscope preparation maybe afvise ??
Hi Mark, if you want to paint with traditional ceramic paints which are used in traditional stained glass, you will need access to a kiln which can heat the glass up to around 660c in a controlled way. A regular oven will not be suitable unfortunately.
Visit my Amazon shop to buy tools and materials I use in my studio www.amazon.co.uk/shop/derekhuntartist
Another spot on, thorough tutorial by the preeminent TH-cam stained glass master. Thank you Professor Hunt.
Thanks Jason 🙂
Great videos Derek! Thanks for taking the time to create these glass painting tips. You make it look so easy.
Thanks Mike 🙂
Wonderful as always! Thank you, Derek!
Hi Jennifer, thank you so much for your support :)
Thank you, for so many details and tips in one video. You have incredible patience!
Thank you Elaine🙂🙏
Another solid instructional video... in addition, adding lettering as a design element can also adds interest and gives it a contemporary touch.
Thank you for your feedback, much appreciated 🙏🙂
Great information clearly communicated. Eager to try this and dive deeper into your videos. Thanks!
Awesome!
Thank you again derek❤
You're welcome Ernest
This was so helpful. You are so patient and your work always amazes me. You are an inspiration to people like me.
Great stuff! So good to hear you’re getting value from the tutorials 🙏🙂
@@DerekHuntArtist You cannot imagine how much you have inspired me and encouraged me. Thank you many times over.
Thank you! You are the best! ❤️
Thank you !
Thank you for your inspiration! 😀👍
You are so welcome!
Good device ,thanks Derek
You're welcome!
Beautiful work. I can't replicate the process, but while I'm researching my project came across this. Quite inspirational
Glad you found it useful!
Derek, Thank you for another amazing video. I have finally ordered my badger brushes this morning from Jacksons’s art supply (London) as Amazon continues to be out of stock. Your videos are as artful and amazing as your glass work. I loved the luminous blue light of this video. Cheers and thank you again from our foggy Mendocino coast
Hi Donna, great news! Keep me posted on how you get on with your new brushes! 🙂
The link to porcupine quills says they're unavailable and they don't know when or if they'll be back in stock. But there are vendors on eBay selling them for almost nothing as craft items and fishing floats (must be for VERY small fish!) so that's good. I like the idea of using a thin black wash first so you can see to scratch out the letters, then firing it to fix them before going deep black for a second firing. My past attempts to do it all in one go have had mixed success at best!
Thanks for the heads up on that link. Will have a look at that.
Another fantastic informative how to video, thank you so much for sharing this information, did you use a resist for the lines? it looked as if the paint was repelled from theses lines when you were painting the wash.
Well spotted Kizzywitch! Yes I put a cello tape resist over the areas I wanted to remain clear before painting. 👍🏼🙂
Fantastic videos, Derek. I enjoy watching all your tutorials. Question: At 5:45 into this video, it appears there is a resist that preventing the paint from spreading into the three horizontal columns as you apply paint with your applicator brush. What are you doing to keep the paint where you want it? Thanks!
Haha! Well spotted David. I've masked off the lines on each piece of glass with cellotape to keep those bits clean.
That kiln looks wonderfully appropriate to the task. May I ask what kind of kiln you use?
Hi Sonia, I use a gas kiln, but it is not made any more unfortunately. I also use an electric kiln made by a Uk company called KilnCare 🙂
Really useful video as always thanks. It would be great if you could perhaps in the future do a quick video on firing and what schedule and temp etc you should use. I normally fuse glass , but I’m assuming you don’t need to hold at the anneal temperature if just firing Reuche paints onto the glass?
Hi Carol, I usually fire Reusche paints straight up to 650 degrees centigrade and soak for 5 minutes at that temperature, then switch off the kiln and allow to cool naturally.
@@DerekHuntArtist great thanks I will try that
Hi Derek, thanks for the great video..I'm wondering which badger blender you have, pls ? . I didn't see those with acrylic ferrule . Thanks & best wishes.
Welp, I’ve been asked that question before and unfortunately I can’t answer as I’ve had it for many years and can’t remember who the supplier was - sorry.
@@DerekHuntArtist thanks Derek ...all the best
I sign my stain glass work by dremmell or by acid cream but I whil try to put gold on BUT
gold need porus suface do you have a special technic for putting gols on my sign eaching I plan to put over some glass like the one use for microscope preparation maybe
afvise ??
Hi Jacque, I don’t use gold in my work so can’t advise, sorry 🙂
What if you don't have access to a kiln, would a gas or electric oven be alright ?
Hi Mark, if you want to paint with traditional ceramic paints which are used in traditional stained glass, you will need access to a kiln which can heat the glass up to around 660c in a controlled way. A regular oven will not be suitable unfortunately.