OM642 (oil cooler leak fix 8) Swirl flap deletion fix
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 18 ต.ค. 2024
- It is a common problem on OM642 engine (this one is from a 2009 Mercedes E320) for the swirl flap mechanism to fail over time. It is also common for the swirl flap motor to fail due to oil leaking onto it. In this engine, the mechanism was worn beyond repair causing poor performance (and probably dirtier exhaust). Mercedes only offers a whole new manifold at a significant cost. However, the swirl flaps may simply be fixed in the open position as they only have minimal effect at low RPM. The failed mechanism is worse than simply mounting the flaps to open or removing them. Here we choose the latter. The shaft openings are threaded, closed off with bolts (treated with threadlock red before final installation). This is the 8th video of a series of oil cooler leak fix job: see the playlist to watch them in order (videos are also numbered in the title)
I still would advise you to consider all pro and cons. New motor is not that expensive and the flaps improve low-end performance. So cutting the corners will hit you back, even you might not notice with with gentle driving. Had the same issue on W211 cars. They had vacuum engine management (darn pneumatic computer) and over the years unqualified mechanics bend, kinked, broke the fittings. So whole forum jump on the idea of deleting the system and have the engine running in default mode, instead of performance mode. All for saving some time to do it right and $5-10 on new vacuum fittings.
Well you should do what you are comfortable with. In my case it was the flap mechanism, not the motor that failed. It sells as one piece with a new intake manifold at over $1000. There are low cost aftermarket mechanisms but I didn’t want to gamble with those. Ironically I noticed an increase in fuel economy and available power after taking the flaps out. Probably because the valves were not opening and closing all the way. Around 30mpg in mixed driving, just about as advertised
@@DIY-VIDEOSGood luck dear friend. Await for Soot in your exausht and future problems.
@@markamd1 I appreciate the feedback and weighing the pros and cons is good advice. So for those considering this, also take a look at the aftermarket mechanism option (or a new manifold) and decide what's best. For me it was either this or the junkyard LOL
Hi everyone, I am in Australia and I have a vito 120cdi with the same engine .
I have the oil leak problem from the cooler amd I toke to a mechanic to do the job , I sent him your videos, see how’s goes.
Let me know what happens. Good luck with it!
Can you do a video removing the intake manifold from the vehicle. So far the videos I've seen ain't doing justice.
Thanks for asking :), I actually do already have a video where I remove the intakes: th-cam.com/video/aGFlHV9Zc6s/w-d-xo.html There is a playlist on this repair that may be useful: th-cam.com/play/PLOzPW3gkl8GKqWkbO77NypMejZ5TfJBgH.html
I have 2008 sprinter i put a resistor it works fine but the only problem i have is the code still there because of sensor on the flaps arms is there a way to put a magnet or something to trick the sensors thanks
They started adding that sensor in 2010 I think on the E series. So mine is just before that. I think there must be some sort of fix to this but I am afraid I don't know how to do it
After about ~2009 if resistor doesn't work only ecu decoding can help. However it causes EGR valve to stuck open (why Mercedes?!) So there is need to decode EGR as well, otherwise car will shake badly on idle. At this point I am not sure, but probably DPF won't be triggering clean up and gonna clog up in few thousand miles. So - all fixed or all out.
genius idea! saves welding😉
Thanks! 👍
@@DIY-VIDEOS is yours a coupe mate? ive got the c207 e350 and looking to do this swirl flap delete soon as my oil cooler seals need done. currently have the egr blanked off and the dpf gutted makes a big difference 😎
Mine is a 4 door. Good luck with it, sounds like you are on the right track
@@DIY-VIDEOS ahh nice mate. cheers🤘🏼
How did you remove the swirl flaps? I’m struggling to get mine out! 😂😂
It was a pain lol. I just used pliers and remove as much of the flap metal as possible from the shafts, just keep ripping of pieces. Then with the flap metal mostly gone pull them out through the hole.
@@DIY-VIDEOS I’ve been following your videos step by step and so far, so good but these swirl flaps are a nightmare! I’m hoping I’ll be able to get them all out, I’ve managed to break one swirl flap off but the pin isn’t budging 🤔
Press any remaining flap metal tightly against the shaft so it will fit through the shaft holed. Then with some force you can pull the shafts out. It takes a lot of force but you can do it by hand with some good pliers
@@DIY-VIDEOS thank you so much! I just hope the reinstallation will go to plan! 😂😂 I’m hoping to get it done in a day or two
what is the size of the screw
1/2" diameter bolt. I used 1/2"-13 NC tap (DeWalt). The drill bit in that set is 27/64". Note this does not leave much room for error. Be careful to get it straight. The length of the bolt was 1.5" I think but the length can vary as long as it extends in far enough to cover the side hole. Use threadlock to make things airtight so you don't loose boost
Hi what did you do with the motor? Did you reinstall or did you leave it off?
I bolted the swirl flap motor back into the same place but it is completely disconnected. The linkages are gone and the wire is not connected either. You can just leave it out
Perfect thankyou! I've got to carry the oil cooler seals on my jeep in the next week or two, I'm dreading removing the turbo and elbow due to having what look like less space! Any tips? Thanks again
@@yahrudeboiI have a video on the turbo removal. Hope that helps, good luck with it
@@DIY-VIDEOS I've watched it many times! And the rest of your videos! How long would you say it took you in total?
@@yahrudeboiawesome, thank you. It took two evenings to remove the turbo. Several weeks on the whole thing but I was working a few hours a day after work. I would say the turbo is hardest. The rest is just time consuming and need to keep track of how to reassemble
you can buy ready-made capping kits.
Good to know, thank you
@@DIY-VIDEOS Do you have the torque to tighten the screw on the orange band that goes into the turbine?
I don’t have a number but don’t over tighten this. In my case the previous person over tightened it and it caused the plastic to break