I'm actually looking to build one of these for my 3d printer. I'm sick of the ceramic heater cartridge burning up and an induction heater is said to have a much longer service life in similar applications (injection molding processes use inductively heated stainless steel nozzles). I've seen homebrew setups with polyester capacitors placed just after the heated coil. Capacitors act as a resistors with regard to AC power, so, depending on the frequency of the electricity coming out of your rigs, and whether or not they have poly-caps already in place, you might be able to add that sorta thing to avoid having to hotswap them. Otherwise this means I'm going to have to add some homebrew c++ to my 3d printer code.
Wish you the best on using your induction heater for your 3D printer.. sounds interesting. Make a vid of it and post it. Would like to see anoter use for these in'die heaters.
Hello,Bob.That's a very good viedo!But i have some question.Do you think this board can light LED with wireless way like telsa coil?And why amp will overload when metal began heating?
Thanks! I don't think this will work for LED's, it's possible, but probably not practical. The power supply I am using in this video is over loading because it can not provide enough amps for the induction heater, but it's all I had. It did ok for the demonstration. The induction heater draws more amps when it heats metal; that's normal for these units.
Hi Bob, I have the big one. I want to heat up something really small (less than 1 mm). And this one is not efficient enough. Do you think it is possible to make my own coil with small diameter but tune the turns to match the same impedance? I assume that smaller coil will work better for small piece of metal.
This is an actual problem for such oscillators. The only way to fix this is to get a power supply with a fast rise time, or directly jump start it as shown in this video. Nevertheless, a very educating video, thank you @Bob H
Hey Bob, nice video. I am using the 1kW heater which you showed, and used a linear pwr supply of 24v-15A whose voltage dropped to 4V when applied in circuit, so can I use your method in my case also? Can you please specify your Dc power supply rating. thank you.
+Mrudul Shingwekar - The supply in the video is rated at 5 amps max. I was able to get the induction heater to work with it, but a 15-20 amp (24v) supply would be far better for these kind of induction heaters to work properly.
- Glad you liked it, Thanks. Good question - I wish it was that simple, but, no, that won't work. Because of the way these induction heaters are made, only one coil per board will work. Having 2 boards in parallel with 1 coil would certainly cause operative interaction issues between the boards and cause them to burn up.
You use a smaller dia. coil for that screwdriver you will see it get red hot quickly. If you notice that in that coil the magnetic flux is more stronger closer to the coils. But with the small dia. of your screwdrive, its not deep enough into the flux line. So try one a lot smaller with that same unit and you will see.
billsherenow - Yes, you're right. I tried that sometime after making this vid. I still need a higher current power supply tho to make this h heater work at its full potential.
I just bought a cheap inductive heater on ebay. It didn't come with a coil so I will have to wind one. Since I am not looking to use it for long initially I will probably use solid copper. So far i have not found any information in the number of coils and diameter (inductance needed). The coils in videos vary from 2 or 3 turns to at least 8. Diameters vary a bit too. That seems to be a wide range. Since its a resonance circuit I assume the could inductance will change the circuit behaviour. If you came across a good source of info in this can you point me in the direction?
Manick N - 8 turns of 1/4" copper tubing with 1.5" inner diameter is the coil dimensions of my heater in this video. If your board looks like mine in this video, making a similar coil as I described should work ok. Most of the induction heaters boards I've seen use similar dimensions for their coils. For making coils, It's better to have too many turns than not enough. Hope this helps.
Thanks. My board is slightly different. 2 caps as opposed to 4. I didn't have copper tubing on hand and the contacts are not conducive to attaching that so I used strands of wire from an armoured cable. The wire was just under 2 mm (75 thou) thick. 8 turns with 1" diameter. It is getting the metal in the coil hot but not glowing but its heating up the fets more than the wire. I tried a computer power supply after its switched on with a fast contact. I also tried an old car battery that read 12V when metered. So far no luck getting it to function properly without overheating. Any experience with this problem?
Manick N - Look at this one ... th-cam.com/video/qx5xUqZvOZs/w-d-xo.html . It's identical to yours. It uses a 10 turn coil and a 31 volt supply. It appears to be working well in th he vid. Perhaps you could copy this one for your board.
Hi Bob I tested the smaller one with a 5A 0 to 12v supply and it worked great the bigger one I tried to power up whith 5A 12-24V supply and nothing happened,then whith two car battery serial conected the mosfet exploded .I order a new one and I don't want to make the same "discovery";need advice, appreciate any help .Thanks in advance
+Jan Peter - They're squirrelly designs and can be so damn touchy. Some folks don't have any trouble with them, then others do (like myself). Highly recommend something with current limiting ability, like a 48v 20A current limited power supply. If that's not possible, at least have a fuse in the circuit - maybe like 30 amps. Make sure that the power leads are big enough to carry the needed current. If there's any sag in the start current, these units will probably lock up. You really need a stiff power source to 'kick' it. Check this guy's vid; he's got the right set up... th-cam.com/video/1wwlbN-9jsU/w-d-xo.html Even tho batteries should work, I prefer this method over using batteries.
Thanks Bob .I found this power supply on Aliexpress it gives 12a 48v .I am asking myself if 12a current would be enough to heat up a small graphite crucible to melt some copper alloy (bronze).I don't wanna use batteries. www.aliexpress.com/item/600W-48V-Single-Output-Switching-power-supply-for-LED-Strip-light-AC-to-DC/621245587.html?spm=2114.13010208.99999999.303.aaTfiK
+Jan Peter - Yes, that will probably work, but it may not be enough. Remember that these units are rated at 1000 watts at full load. The math indicates that it will require about 21 amps at 48 volts for 1000 watts. Whatever metal work placed in the coil and how close it is will determine the amount of current the unit will draw. I recommend an amp meter of 0-20 amp so you can see how much current is being drawn by it during the work process.
Good video! Thank you - I ordered one of these and should have it in just a few days. I want to build a small rifle casing annealing heater. I would only need 1 to 2 copper loops on the actual induction coil since I would only need to heat up the case neck. Do you know if that would work if I trimmed off excess coil windings?
Thanks! The coil can have maybe 1 turn removed, but I think it probably won't work with only 1 or 2 turns. You can try it, but the unit is 'tuned' to operate with the coil turns supplied. However, I've seen some induction heaters with a seperate coil of 2 turns connected in series with the main coil. I would recommend this rather than reducing turns on the supplied coil.
Thanks for the tips. I've got a 600w 48v PSU on the way for mine. Any tips for the coil? I'm thinking about cutting off a few coils to focus the resonance / heat better (I'm trying to make something that will heat up rusted nuts).
I haven't experimented with any other coils other than the one that came with the module I got. Mine has 8 turns of 1/4" copper tubing 2" diameter. I've seen variations of other coil dimensions here on YT that seem to work good. I think these could be copied and should work ok.
U can get those High frequency capacitor s from old induction oven circuit board s ... scrap those capacitor s ... induction oven s have bigger hf capacitor s rated at 650vac and 1200v dc and they are mkph.
I do wonder why they don't put a capacitor in series with the gate drive part of the circuit, as it would ensure that it fails as an open circuit instead of a short
D.C. being a forbiden state one might as well wonder if a simple 556 timer chip followed by dual integrated gate-drivers (with internal interlock logic) wouldn't fix that.
Bob, the smaller one you demo'd arrived last week, and last night I tested with a 6a 12v supply - which I stole from an amplifier. Soldered the coil as you did. It worked great. My test object was a nail, held by pliers. It got red hot in about 15 seconds. Of course, now that I have this $10 "toy", I don't know what to do next. Is there any practical use for these little things? Anyone?
Lbs - Glad it worked for you. Yes, they're a little squirrely to get working. I have plans of using mine to reflash the getter inside vacuum tubes. Can't go wrong with the price.
+david lum - I going to use mine for reflashing the getter in older vacuum tubes. Other than that, I really don't have much use for it. They're fun to play with tho, and the cost is right. ;-)
What if you reshaped the coil into a flat one will it works well? What things should be considered in reshaping for example the number of winds, the diameter... Please explain
I've seen different videos about induction cookers... Ok I'm asking about the things you have if your coils reshaped into flat one what should be considered to not burn it the number of turns? The diameter? What
Found out yesterday if you hook one up backwards to 28vdc battery bank it will explode the mosfets and the traces on the circuit board. Lesson learned I hope. Ordered new Fets and a new heater also, just in case they don't fix it.
+Bob H Thank a lot and what is the currents ratio? (consumed from power current)/(current through the coil) ? What current is consumed from power supply ? Ips what current is passing through the coil ? Icoil
+Bob H Is it possible to repeat the test with measurements. Could get some really interesting things. Input current and voltage and Output voltage and current during normal operation.
This one from ebay should work ok... www.ebay.com/itm/High-Quality-24V-36V-48V-DC-480W-Regulated-Switching-Power-Supply-Transformer-/162167259142?var=&hash=item25c1ec0006:m:mc1iYOLlk7vAXHOUjRbGmdg
Нуржан Сарманов No and no. The welder is unfiltered raw DC and this device euns on 12 to 30 volts of filtered DC. The 120 volts or 240 volts AC from the line (mains) will instantly destroy it. You need a DC power supply or large batteries, not a welder or a battery charger.
The power supply is Mean Well RSP-1000-48 www.trcelectronics.com/View/Mean-Well/RSP-1000-48.shtmlThis video shows one in use... th-cam.com/video/1wwlbN-9jsU/w-d-xo.html
Very Interesting! any idea how to make an induction cap sealing machine. More specifically, the manual type with hand held tool that performs the actual sealing. If so, I have more questions to follow :)
If you're referring to cap sealing such as those on hermetically sealed plastic bottles, like this video ---> th-cam.com/video/EgzJaVLmpY0/w-d-xo.html , then I think these induction heaters like I demonstrated should work ok. However, a flat-shape spiral coil would be needed. There are other YT vids that show spiral coils with their induction units. I haven't tried a spiral coil yet, but it looks interesting. I tend to think the coil that comes with the unit may work for cap sealing as well.
I would be interested in knowing if you could take the factory hand held unit apart and separate the red button that initializes the process to a different location such as a homemade box made out of wood.
+Masterpj555 - No, the capacitor would go in parallel with the battery. Connect the + of the capacitor to the + of the battery, and the negative to negative... like jump starting a car battery. (Hopefully you've checked both mosfets.) ;-)
Do you recommend this heater? I need one that heats up to 2000 degrees celcius this model can work continuously for 24 hours followed ? it needs to be cooled with water?
What volume can put inside the coil to heat? Because the manual says it has to be 1/10 of the coil dimension! Another question is possible I increase the size and dimension of this coil the device will work? this Model " 1000W ZVS Low Voltage Induction Heating"
+Bob H I think it will consume a lot of ampera, quite so much as a normal boiler that needs 1000 Watt. With the screwdriver. . how much watt are used when red hot?
+Pierre de Muralt - It was drawing around 80 watts. As far a boiling water, the water would need to be ferrous. The ferrous content in ordinary water is very low, if existent at all. I don't think water would boil with an induction heater.
Pierre de Muralt Go to where they sell kitchen appliances and buy a table top induction heater like the one they sell on late nite TV, where the burner does not get hot. That i
It gets warm, but when steel is put in the coil, then it starts heating the steel and the other components will get hotter too. It's good idea to have a fan on it for prolonged use.
i got no problem connecting to atx psu, 12v line. Switching on from home power supply to atx psu, .. the unit just turn on with indicator lighted. Maybe its your power unit is not capable.
That would probably work, but usually, a larger or smaller coil would determine the self-oscillating frequency. I don't know how it would affect the performance.
it still does it. i have a 1kw 36V dc powersupply i have the same one you showed on the ebay sight. i tried turning the psu on first. then connecting it it still kills the psu.. im confused.
INVISIBLE SUN - Hmm.. that is odd. Can you do a load test on your power supply? Say, maybe for at least 10 amps? I'm just wondering if the surge is tripping the current overload when connected to the unit. Also, try connecting a 1000 mfd (or higher) capacitor across the power supply output, then connect the unit. Or how about turning down the power supply voltage to something like 20 volts, try that 1st.
i had it powering a 500W ish asic miner before this aplication ill have to put a load resistor on it to see if it works wit 10 amps i also have a huge cap its 47,000kuf at 450v *yes i know it can kill me* and after staring at it for like a half hour i dont think i can change the voltage idk lol
INVISIBLE SUN - No, that 450v cap will not charge up to anything higher than the voltage it's connected to.. so yer safe. So u can Use it. Again, I think it'd be a good idea to start your unit with 20v, then increase the voltage to 36v.
The size of the coil to the diameter of the metal you are heating is important. In your bigger unit the coil was too big for the screw driver. A smaller diameter coil with the number of turns adjusted to maintain the same inductance would have smoked the screw driver. That is why the little one worked better. In a lot of the ads for these things they warn against using slow starting switching type power supplies and less than 12 volt supplies, for just the reason you demonstrated. They say it can blow the MOSFET transistors in the device. I suggest you avoid doing that and start with the supply on, as you demonstrated if you don't want to destroy the thing.
Nice tip, thanks. The power supply I was using was not able to supply the current necessary and it kept folding back. The small unit didn't require as much current and worked better for the demonstration. Of course, the main point of the vid was to explain the 'short-circuit' phenomenon of these type of induction heaters and how to work around this issue. Glad to know that I wasn't the only 1 that was experiencing this problem.
Yes, that is correct. I touched on that in this video. However, I demonstrated that the ZVS will lock up if voltage is ramped up. As demonstrated, these boards need a quick start up voltage when applied with adequate current to operate properly.
The power supply will not provide the needed current. I mentioned this in the vid at 4:21... the power supply cannot provide the needed current and it folds back beyond 5 amps.
Yeah, but ned star is right, the cables are too thin so you're losing power there. Thicker cables (and good banana plugs, not those!) will get you much closer. You can see what he means by measuring the input voltage at the board with a multimeter: you'll be surprised how much the voltage drops because of the cables!
Not the test leads per se, though there is some voltage drop. Bob H demonstrated that by potting up the PS slowly. The need to kick start the tank resonance appears to be the root cause - see this vid th-cam.com/video/gNL4H5fC6AY/w-d-xo.html
...surprised you didn't blow a MOSFET.
With a 12v battery (about 7AH) the 2000w ZVS should get all that stuff red hot!
THANKS FOR THE VIDEO!!!
Hi, the purpose of using a coil made of copper tubing instead of wire is to allow cooling water through.
jlfqam - Yes, right. I've seen that done before.
You seem to have a better grasp of this. I understand an extra non polarized capacitor on one side will jump start the ramp up by offset one side.
That's good to know, Thanks!
That little red jumper lead you have to connect it to only has wire section of about 0.5 square millimetres area.
I'm actually looking to build one of these for my 3d printer. I'm sick of the ceramic heater cartridge burning up and an induction heater is said to have a much longer service life in similar applications (injection molding processes use inductively heated stainless steel nozzles).
I've seen homebrew setups with polyester capacitors placed just after the heated coil. Capacitors act as a resistors with regard to AC power, so, depending on the frequency of the electricity coming out of your rigs, and whether or not they have poly-caps already in place, you might be able to add that sorta thing to avoid having to hotswap them. Otherwise this means I'm going to have to add some homebrew c++ to my 3d printer code.
Wish you the best on using your induction heater for your 3D printer.. sounds interesting. Make a vid of it and post it. Would like to see anoter use for these in'die heaters.
It's oscillator lockup.Happens with all of these Chinesium induction boards.
Thanks for the nice informative demo.
Certainly! Glad it was of some value.
Hello,Bob.That's a very good viedo!But i have some question.Do you think this board can light LED with wireless way like telsa coil?And why amp will overload when metal began heating?
Thanks! I don't think this will work for LED's, it's possible, but probably not practical. The power supply I am using in this video is over loading because it can not provide enough amps for the induction heater, but it's all I had. It did ok for the demonstration. The induction heater draws more amps when it heats metal; that's normal for these units.
This notice for starting up is highly appreciated!
Olive Journey رحلة زيتونة - Glad you found it useful.
Hi Bob, I have the big one. I want to heat up something really small (less than 1 mm). And this one is not efficient enough. Do you think it is possible to make my own coil with small diameter but tune the turns to match the same impedance? I assume that smaller coil will work better for small piece of metal.
Chao Liu - Yes, I think it can be done, if the coil is modified, something like the one in this vid ---》 th-cam.com/video/k4xsqw463Hs/w-d-xo.html
This is an actual problem for such oscillators. The only way to fix this is to get a power supply with a fast rise time, or directly jump start it as shown in this video. Nevertheless, a very educating video, thank you @Bob H
Thanks! Yes, that's what I learned about these.
Hey Bob, nice video. I am using the 1kW heater which you showed, and used a linear pwr supply of 24v-15A whose voltage dropped to 4V when applied in circuit, so can I use your method in my case also?
Can you please specify your Dc power supply rating. thank you.
+Mrudul Shingwekar - The supply in the video is rated at 5 amps max. I was able to get the induction heater to work with it, but a 15-20 amp (24v) supply would be far better for these kind of induction heaters to work properly.
Firstly, thanks for the nice video.
I have a question.
if we use two boards and the output of each one link to one coil. Is the watt become double
- Glad you liked it, Thanks. Good question - I wish it was that simple, but, no, that won't work. Because of the way these induction heaters are made, only one coil per board will work. Having 2 boards in parallel with 1 coil would certainly cause operative interaction issues between the boards and cause them to burn up.
Thanks for explanation
You use a smaller dia. coil for that screwdriver you will see it get red hot quickly. If you notice that in that coil the magnetic flux is more stronger closer to the coils. But with the small dia. of your screwdrive, its not deep enough into the flux line. So try one a lot smaller with that same unit and you will see.
billsherenow - Yes, you're right. I tried that sometime after making this vid. I still need a higher current power supply tho to make this h heater work at its full potential.
I do not have a power supply like yours, what could I use for a power source? Thanks a million.
DroneXFun - I've seen two 12 volt car batteries connected in series for 24 volts work ok. Hope this helps.
Some good ones tell you abaut to not soft start the thing, but if you know how they vork you should already know that 🤔😀
I just bought a cheap inductive heater on ebay. It didn't come with a coil so I will have to wind one. Since I am not looking to use it for long initially I will probably use solid copper. So far i have not found any information in the number of coils and diameter (inductance needed). The coils in videos vary from 2 or 3 turns to at least 8. Diameters vary a bit too. That seems to be a wide range. Since its a resonance circuit I assume the could inductance will change the circuit behaviour.
If you came across a good source of info in this can you point me in the direction?
Manick N - 8 turns of 1/4" copper tubing with 1.5" inner diameter is the coil dimensions of my heater in this video. If your board looks like mine in this video, making a similar coil as I described should work ok. Most of the induction heaters boards I've seen use similar dimensions for their coils. For making coils, It's better to have too many turns than not enough. Hope this helps.
Thanks. My board is slightly different. 2 caps as opposed to 4. I didn't have copper tubing on hand and the contacts are not conducive to attaching that so I used strands of wire from an armoured cable. The wire was just under 2 mm (75 thou) thick. 8 turns with 1" diameter.
It is getting the metal in the coil hot but not glowing but its heating up the fets more than the wire. I tried a computer power supply after its switched on with a fast contact. I also tried an old car battery that read 12V when metered.
So far no luck getting it to function properly without overheating. Any experience with this problem?
Manick N - Can you send me a link where you got yours? I would like to see it, Thanks.
Bob Thanks. See link below.
www.ebay.com/p/20a-1000w-ZVS-Low-Voltage-Induction-Heating-Board-Module-Flyback-Driver-Heater/593096375?iid=182533751768
Manick N - Look at this one ... th-cam.com/video/qx5xUqZvOZs/w-d-xo.html . It's identical to yours. It uses a 10 turn coil and a 31 volt supply. It appears to be working well in th he vid. Perhaps you could copy this one for your board.
That 1 tip about setting up the power supply first did it, thanks
Hi Bob
I tested the smaller one with a 5A 0 to 12v supply and it worked great the bigger one I tried to power up whith 5A 12-24V supply and nothing happened,then whith two car battery serial conected the mosfet exploded .I order a new one and I don't want to make the same "discovery";need advice, appreciate any help .Thanks in advance
+Jan Peter - They're squirrelly designs and can be so damn touchy. Some folks don't have any trouble with them, then others do (like myself). Highly recommend something with current limiting ability, like a 48v 20A current limited power supply. If that's not possible, at least have a fuse in the circuit - maybe like 30 amps. Make sure that the power leads are big enough to carry the needed current. If there's any sag in the start current, these units will probably lock up. You really need a stiff power source to 'kick' it. Check this guy's vid; he's got the right set up... th-cam.com/video/1wwlbN-9jsU/w-d-xo.html Even tho batteries should work, I prefer this method over using batteries.
Thanks Bob .I found this power supply on Aliexpress it gives 12a 48v .I am asking myself if 12a current would be enough to heat up a small graphite crucible to melt some copper alloy (bronze).I don't wanna use batteries.
www.aliexpress.com/item/600W-48V-Single-Output-Switching-power-supply-for-LED-Strip-light-AC-to-DC/621245587.html?spm=2114.13010208.99999999.303.aaTfiK
+Jan Peter - Yes, that will probably work, but it may not be enough. Remember that these units are rated at 1000 watts at full load. The math indicates that it will require about 21 amps at 48 volts for 1000 watts. Whatever metal work placed in the coil and how close it is will determine the amount of current the unit will draw. I recommend an amp meter of 0-20 amp so you can see how much current is being drawn by it during the work process.
+Bob H It seems I have to try and error to find the best way
Releasing wolves from traps
Good video! Thank you - I ordered one of these and should have it in just a few days. I want to build a small rifle casing annealing heater. I would only need 1 to 2 copper loops on the actual induction coil since I would only need to heat up the case neck. Do you know if that would work if I trimmed off excess coil windings?
Thanks! The coil can have maybe 1 turn removed, but I think it probably won't work with only 1 or 2 turns. You can try it, but the unit is 'tuned' to operate with the coil turns supplied. However, I've seen some induction heaters with a seperate coil of 2 turns connected in series with the main coil. I would recommend this rather than reducing turns on the supplied coil.
@@bob4analog thank you!
Thanks for the tips. I've got a 600w 48v PSU on the way for mine. Any tips for the coil? I'm thinking about cutting off a few coils to focus the resonance / heat better (I'm trying to make something that will heat up rusted nuts).
I haven't experimented with any other coils other than the one that came with the module I got. Mine has 8 turns of 1/4" copper tubing 2" diameter. I've seen variations of other coil dimensions here on YT that seem to work good. I think these could be copied and should work ok.
U can get those High frequency capacitor s from old induction oven circuit board s ... scrap those capacitor s ... induction oven s have bigger hf capacitor s rated at 650vac and 1200v dc and they are mkph.
Good info, thanks!
@@bob4analog ur welcome..sir.
I do wonder why they don't put a capacitor in series with the gate drive part of the circuit, as it would ensure that it fails as an open circuit instead of a short
Good point. I don't know either, but it'd be worth trying.
D.C. being a forbiden state one might as well wonder if a simple 556 timer chip followed by dual integrated gate-drivers (with internal interlock logic) wouldn't fix that.
Bob, the smaller one you demo'd arrived last week, and last night I tested with a 6a 12v supply - which I stole from an amplifier. Soldered the coil as you did. It worked great. My test object was a nail, held by pliers. It got red hot in about 15 seconds.
Of course, now that I have this $10 "toy", I don't know what to do next. Is there any practical use for these little things? Anyone?
Lbs - Glad it worked for you. Yes, they're a little squirrely to get working. I have plans of using mine to reflash the getter inside vacuum tubes. Can't go wrong with the price.
+david lum - I going to use mine for reflashing the getter in older vacuum tubes. Other than that, I really don't have much use for it. They're fun to play with tho, and the cost is right. ;-)
What if you reshaped the coil into a flat one will it works well? What things should be considered in reshaping for example the number of winds, the diameter... Please explain
Yes, that is done in many induction heaters. A "pancake" coil can be made for that. Here's an example: th-cam.com/video/8s8P75pYnZs/w-d-xo.html
I've seen different videos about induction cookers... Ok I'm asking about the things you have if your coils reshaped into flat one what should be considered to not burn it the number of turns? The diameter? What
@@ahmadnab7969 - its usually the number of turns. If such a coil is to be made, the coil shown in the video I sent you should work fine.
Found out yesterday if you hook one up backwards to 28vdc battery bank it will explode the mosfets and the traces on the circuit board. Lesson learned I hope. Ordered new Fets and a new heater also, just in case they don't fix it.
hi,
how long it takes for a 20 mm bolt to get red hot condition
About 1 minute (60 seconds) or less.
You need a cool cmf fan as well
Andrew Lloyd - Correct, especially if used for extended periods of time.
This mini pci card works on car battery, yes ?
Yes, it should work fine at 12v.
Hi! What is the output voltage (where the coil is attached approximate values)? many thanks.
+Zapadug Zapadugov - I'm not sure, but I think it's about 3 times the supply voltage. I have not checked it.
+Bob H Thank a lot and what is the currents ratio? (consumed from power current)/(current through the coil) ?
What current is consumed from power supply ? Ips
what current is passing through the coil ? Icoil
+Zapadug Zapadugov during this 3 times greater coil voltage , compared to voltage from power source
+Zapadug Zapadugov - I don't know what the actual RF current is in the coil... I've never measured it.. Sorry.
+Bob H Is it possible to repeat the test with measurements. Could get some really interesting things.
Input current and voltage
and
Output voltage and current
during normal operation.
can i upgrade my clothing iron with this 12 volt module?
Not a bad idea...You probably could!
can you tell me where i can buy a a good power supply for the same induction heater? can i use an arc welder? or is it possible justto plug it in?
This one from ebay should work ok... www.ebay.com/itm/High-Quality-24V-36V-48V-DC-480W-Regulated-Switching-Power-Supply-Transformer-/162167259142?var=&hash=item25c1ec0006:m:mc1iYOLlk7vAXHOUjRbGmdg
Thanks man
Certainly! Glad it was of some value.
Нуржан Сарманов No and no. The welder is unfiltered raw DC and this device euns on 12 to 30 volts of filtered DC. The 120 volts or 240 volts AC from the line (mains) will instantly destroy it. You need a DC power supply or large batteries, not a welder or a battery charger.
Get two 600W used PC power supply then just set them in series.
hi how are you I have 1000w induction heater I bought it online so please help me what kind of power supply I must use for it
The power supply is Mean Well RSP-1000-48 www.trcelectronics.com/View/Mean-Well/RSP-1000-48.shtmlThis video shows one in use... th-cam.com/video/1wwlbN-9jsU/w-d-xo.html
Very Interesting! any idea how to make an induction cap sealing machine. More specifically, the manual type with hand held tool that performs the actual sealing. If so, I have more questions to follow :)
If you're referring to cap sealing such as those on hermetically sealed plastic bottles, like this video ---> th-cam.com/video/EgzJaVLmpY0/w-d-xo.html , then I think these induction heaters like I demonstrated should work ok. However, a flat-shape spiral coil would be needed. There are other YT vids that show spiral coils with their induction units. I haven't tried a spiral coil yet, but it looks interesting. I tend to think the coil that comes with the unit may work for cap sealing as well.
I would be interested in knowing if you could take the factory hand held unit apart and separate the red button that initializes the process to a different location such as a homemade box made out of wood.
I think that would work.. good idea.
Currently available on Amazon for $55.99
25.00 today
How would you kickstart it with a 6 cell lipo and it blew up on me.. (22.2volts)
+Masterpj555 - Try something like a 10,000uF capacitor across the battery. This should help. How much current can you cells provide?
25C so that is 32,5 Amps at the 22.2 volts and 50c peak so that's 65amps for a little while.
+Masterpj555 - I also recommend a volt meter to monitor the voltage during connection and operation of the unit.
+Bob H the capacitor in between the + terminal of the battery and the ZVS driver?
I will replace the mosfet when it arrives and try this
+Masterpj555 - No, the capacitor would go in parallel with the battery. Connect the + of the capacitor to the + of the battery, and the negative to negative... like jump starting a car battery. (Hopefully you've checked both mosfets.) ;-)
thank you friend you resolve mi problem.... :)
Glad it helped. :-)
quiero uno cuanto cuesta y donde lo puedo conseguir
Migtross Arellano - Ebay is where I got mine, for about $28.
Do you recommend this heater?
I need one that heats up to 2000 degrees celcius
this model can work continuously for 24 hours followed ?
it needs to be cooled with water?
+Eco Fuel - No, I wouldn't recommend it for that kind of service. It is best used for only short durations.
+ Bob H Would you recommend me to someone I can use continuously?
+Eco Fuel - Here it is... th-cam.com/video/UWk3s01oqDM/w-d-xo.html
What volume can put inside the coil to heat?
Because the manual says it has to be 1/10 of the coil dimension!
Another question is possible I increase the size and dimension of this coil the device will work? this Model "
1000W ZVS Low Voltage Induction Heating"
+Eco Fuel - Sorry, but I don't know exactly volume can put inside coil to heat. Do you have this model? Is it working?
can you connect the coil to some 10ga cable? i need to heat a bolt in a tight spot on my car
mark ward - Yes, that should work ok.
are you ballsy enough to connect this thing to a 12 cell in series bigass li-po battery? ;)
260830107 - Yup! Stright up! %-b
I'll subscribe your channel if you push this thing at it maximum rating of 1000 watts =P
260830107 - X-D
Hello Bob, is it possible to boil water with those devices ?
I've never tried it, nor have I heard of anyone doing that either. It's worth a try.
+Bob H I think it will consume a lot of ampera, quite so much as a normal boiler that needs 1000 Watt. With the screwdriver. . how much watt are used when red hot?
+Pierre de Muralt - It was drawing around 80 watts. As far a boiling water, the water would need to be ferrous. The ferrous content in ordinary water is very low, if existent at all. I don't think water would boil with an induction heater.
+Bob H thank you for this information.
Pierre de Muralt Go to where they sell kitchen appliances and buy a table top induction heater like the one they sell on late nite TV, where the burner does not get hot. That i
Das System Wasser Heizen?
I don't think it will heat water by itself. Inductive heating only works on metal.
I didn't think it got hot until you put steel in the coil.
It gets warm, but when steel is put in the coil, then it starts heating the steel and the other components will get hotter too. It's good idea to have a fan on it for prolonged use.
@@bob4analog thanks Bob
i got no problem connecting to atx psu, 12v line. Switching on from home power supply to atx psu, .. the unit just turn on with indicator lighted.
Maybe its your power unit is not capable.
What if you change a coil? How that would affect results?
That would probably work, but usually, a larger or smaller coil would determine the self-oscillating frequency. I don't know how it would affect the performance.
Its a radio tank circuit look that up explains everything
huh
i was wondering why a 500w unit over loaded a 1kw psu
INVISIBLE SUN - What do you mean?
it still does it. i have a 1kw 36V dc powersupply i have the same one you showed on the ebay sight. i tried turning the psu on first. then connecting it it still kills the psu.. im confused.
INVISIBLE SUN - Hmm.. that is odd. Can you do a load test on your power supply? Say, maybe for at least 10 amps? I'm just wondering if the surge is tripping the current overload when connected to the unit. Also, try connecting a 1000 mfd (or higher) capacitor across the power supply output, then connect the unit. Or how about turning down the power supply voltage to something like 20 volts, try that 1st.
i had it powering a 500W ish asic miner before this aplication ill have to put a load resistor on it to see if it works wit 10 amps i also have a huge cap its 47,000kuf at 450v
*yes i know it can kill me*
and after staring at it for like a half hour i dont think i can change the voltage
idk lol
INVISIBLE SUN - No, that 450v cap will not charge up to anything higher than the voltage it's connected to.. so yer safe. So u can Use it. Again, I think it'd be a good idea to start your unit with 20v, then increase the voltage to 36v.
The size of the coil to the diameter of the metal you are heating is important. In your bigger unit the coil was too big for the screw driver. A smaller diameter coil with the number of turns adjusted to maintain the same inductance would have smoked the screw driver. That is why the little one worked better. In a lot of the ads for these things they warn against using slow starting switching type power supplies and less than 12 volt supplies, for just the reason you demonstrated. They say it can blow the MOSFET transistors in the device. I suggest you avoid doing that and start with the supply on, as you demonstrated if you don't want to destroy the thing.
Nice tip, thanks. The power supply I was using was not able to supply the current necessary and it kept folding back. The small unit didn't require as much current and worked better for the demonstration. Of course, the main point of the vid was to explain the 'short-circuit' phenomenon of these type of induction heaters and how to work around this issue. Glad to know that I wasn't the only 1 that was experiencing this problem.
Your powersupply cant take the inrush current at start up.
pretty common.
I dont think this has anything to do with the ZVS board.
Yes, that is correct. I touched on that in this video. However, I demonstrated that the ZVS will lock up if voltage is ramped up. As demonstrated, these boards need a quick start up voltage when applied with adequate current to operate properly.
You can buy this 1000w ZVS Induction Heater on amazon - amzn.to/2ipi08q
your power supply is way way too weak normal operating at 40A 48V
Cannot for the life of me get mine to work even after doing what you said in the video
It's possible you got a bad one. I've found bridged or even bad solder connections on things I've purchased.
@@Music-zh7fm maybe so, when I got mine one capacitor wasn’t soldered in and wiggled on the board
Your cables are to thin, that's why you not get enough current.
The power supply will not provide the needed current. I mentioned this in the vid at 4:21... the power supply cannot provide the needed current and it folds back beyond 5 amps.
Yeah, but ned star is right, the cables are too thin so you're losing power there. Thicker cables (and good banana plugs, not those!) will get you much closer. You can see what he means by measuring the input voltage at the board with a multimeter: you'll be surprised how much the voltage drops because of the cables!
guillep2k - Ok, thanks, but this issue was already addressed in the video. Please review it and see my comment on it.
Maybe rewind a mot and appropriate rectifier bridge.
Not the test leads per se, though there is some voltage drop. Bob H demonstrated that by potting up the PS slowly. The need to kick start the tank resonance appears to be the root cause - see this vid th-cam.com/video/gNL4H5fC6AY/w-d-xo.html
Your lucky you didn't blow components off those boards when you connected the heaters before powering on the supply.
That's why I made this vid.
дешевая рыбка , паганый суп
Hello I hope Video, translation into Arabic
I will try.
It's the age old solution for the amateur electrician, turn it off and on again!
...and, it worked!
When I used to work for Reynholm Industries they told me to do that to my computer all the time!