We had a Taco induction, heat treatment for the reverse forks in a few Tremec trannys. The fork pad area, was cherried, then quenched. Then checked on the hardness tester, for the appropriate Rockwell. The Vette clutch fork, was hardened, in the Taco too. When I worked at Universal Electric, we made portable transformers, with long heavy welding cables, sold them to Sears, to thaw pipes. Then we heated bearings and sleeves, on a bearing heater. Just put the appropriate size bar, through the bore, and waited for a temperature crayon to melt.
Great work!! I can do lots of things also and it’s good to see someone that also has a patio for the science behind what he is doing. Your skill set is so impressive. I never stop trying to learn new things. So much to learn.
What you're talking about at 16 minutes is called the cruise effect. If the nukes ever do go off, well informed jack of all trades people like yourself will be very valuable after the dust clears. I enjoy your content. Keep learning.
We have 2 of the Miller ProHeat 35 KW heaters. Low frequency. With the water coolers. They use braided copper cables inside of silicone hoses, instead of rigid copper tube coils, and we have 100 feet worth of it. We use it to install and remove big coupling, bushings and stuff like that. Don't forget to keep your phone away from the thing. We all have killed at least one phone.
Excellent video! Explained quite alot. Really appreciated the bit on skin effect and the influence frequency has on penetration into the surface of a metal!
Jack of all trades is a master of none. But a Jack of all trades is still better than one. Anyone that says stay in your lane about trying new lines of work is too closed minded. I’m like you pretty much. I live on an island off the coast of maine and it’s tough to get stuff here sometimes. So I was brought up to work with what you have and to repurpose as much as possible. It has guided me my entire life. Now I can pretty much do any job I need to.
There is a control transformer in there that converts 480 to whatever the control boards use. 15 volts or some such thing. That seems to be the only thing they change for the other voltages. In our experience the rectifier and transistors seem to work at almost any voltage up to 480.
Pulsed DC is alternating in the sense that it's alternating between on & off. But as we know the conventional terminology for alternating is switching between positive & negative.
actually, pulsed dc can be viewed as a sum of ac signal, centered around the mdian value (see Fourrier transform). as far as i know, only permanent dc had no alternative components.
The need to heat the shaft till its cheery red using induction heating is high cost but cheaper than trying to replace the part. Over the yrs I have studyed engineering hydraulic, pnematics. With computers theres still not a mature reference but I dabled in computer programming like multi plexing. Archives are a good search area. Databases can store monumental amounts of information , Ive used Perl but everyone uses and collects there information different ways, USB sticks , anything portable like a book dosent require electricity to sit and read is still handy as long as you have a place to put it after reading it.
I have thought about building a 5-10 kw induction heater, running off DC, using a push pull with a transformer, basically a inverter, and use it to power a induction cooker also, basically build a induction cook stove, that I can use as a tool in the home shop also, maybe experiment with a induction oven, using a grate made from 1" rebar, with a coil just under it , with a Teflon sheet between making cleaning easy, maybe a couple 3bar grates on each side also, with another large grate for broil, using a polished aluminum plate to reflect heat, or a reflective ceramic coating, use a pwm secondary pulse to control the heat, 500° -600°f should be fairly easy, with such large grates and coils, weld the grate in a shape to take advantage of the induction coil possibly have two coils, a top coil. And a lower coil that wraps up each side to induce currents in the side grates, using cooling hoses and heat exchanger to supply house water for home use, stored in a small water heater tank, things you do when off grid with solar power, do some experiments to see how it works out, convert a electric stove to 24/48v induction, I'm thinking about going to 48v to add more solar without having to add more charge controllers, and I can't run a electric stove from my inverter, it's either that or going gas, using a 20-100 lb propane tank for the stove, I have a propane gas tankless water heater , I'm planning to build a small boiler on my wood stove to work as a water heater with a heat exchanger, allowing a fire to be built fill with wood and possibly have hot water for days, up to 48-60; hours also use a pump to circulate water through a few radiators in the house, with pwm controlled fans, use a 15gp roughly pump to flow the water under 5-7psi total pressure, to reduce boiling, use 1" pex main line dropped to 1/2" to go to the radiator using a ball valve to control heat in the area. With a thermostat controlling the pump, and fans, using about 2-4amp at 48v total, use a DC to DC buck converter, to drop to 12-14v for the fans , however the pwm will equal about 6-8v using the 10"-16" fans at low speed. Just enough to move the air, using a large capacitor to prevent voltage spikes, in the charge controllers, possibly use excess solar to power a induction coil to heat the water gse a few pieces of rebar wrapped in copper tubing. Then a ceramic wool insulation, then a coil wrapped around it. The coil being between 1/8" and 1/4" from the water tubing similar to a heat exchanger, only wrapped around a 2" PVC pipe , no insulation. Then wrap the PVC with 1/2" copper , two coils per line to allow more flow, then place in a 5 gallon bucket bof water, with insulation, and placed inside a 1" thick foam board insulation, it may take a hour to heat up but should hold heat for a while also, with two 20' coils heating and the same removing heat, the bucket will nearly be full of copper tubing.. sorry bro ramble, I wish I had Access to all that machinery. I'd build two engines and a boiler, one steam engine, a double action two cylinder, with a 3rs cylinder using the exhaust, with the bore made from steel pipe, 12"-18" stroke with 8" bore, with the secondary expansion cylinder being 12". Double acting. The exhaust from one cylinder push it down, then the other cylinder pushing it up, both being double acting it's a bit complex. Build it like half a vw vr6, basically a narrow v3, 18°+/- to possibly 'fire' or expand,/' pressurized the two cylinders at once, exhaust into the large cylinder, then pressurize the bottom of the piston pushing up the piston and exhaust into the bottom of the large bore. This may be vise versa, or something similar. Running at 150-200psi. With a 250 psi safety running a 1.5" pipe at 150-200 psi in operation, 90-100psi minimum.. use it to generate roughly 600 amps at 24v 300a at 48v (30/60v roughly) and about 130-200a at 12v. Plus an air compressor, a 3-5hp unit with a couple 40 gallon tanks, possibly a 60-80 gallon, so 300plus gallon at 140-150 psi, using an electric clutch. Use the compressed air in shop, also for a small converted engine a 8-10 HP engine converted to run on air or steam, spinning a 150a alternator at 48v uding a A modified head and ball valves using a concentric mounted on the crank, with a large flywheel possibly from manual 4.3L V6 from a 90 C/k1500 weighing about 40-50 lbs maybe use two, one on each side, a 1/2"pipe and ball valves, a concentric with a brass bushing, with old school oiler, using gear oil, and a brass ring in the follower, opening and closing the valves, with the concentric posable to be clocked by grub and dimple in the hub on the crank. With tick marks on each piece, and numbers, the actual timing maybe changed slightly depending on the load and RPM, a flat head made from aluminum about 1/2" thick, with a pair of 1/2" not threads, with ball valves, using a copper or viton o-ring to seal it to the engine, use a 1/8" not plug to drain the cylinder if water condensed inside it. To prevent damage, if stem is condensed possibly use a spring loaded check valve, with just enough pressure to only trigger if water is in the engine say it runs at up to 150 psi, set the firing adjustment, to keep it closed at 160-180 then open, with the plug/ relief at the lowest part of the cylinder. It should clear it's self if water enters the cylinder. Yet checking and clearing before use is a good idea, running on air there is a less chance of water, yet it's still there, and can damage cranks, rods and blocks, the air should run the engine for nearly a hour , making just over 1300-1500 wh. Sorry again for rambling again, getting off topic a bit, good day if you are still here😆✌️
Thank You for wishing Me a good day, I use propane for cooking & like it a lot better than electric. You could tap or replace the resistor heating elements in a stove, or build a bigger inverter to 220 volt, but again I like propane cooking. I also have cooked on wood/coal stoves when out at a mining camp, they work but take a lot of tending. Have a very good day.
I would guess that the power supply doesn't want you to fiddle with the timing because they don't want you to go away from zero crossing, because you need some really beefy power electronics to go there. As for the input voltage, I suppose it's immediately rectified and filtered, so we don't really care bout it's real voltage as long as the capacitors are rated for it.
Yes, the output needs to be resonant, so the frequency is determined by the output coil and the capacitor. Within limits you can move the frequency by changing the capacitor and/or the coil. The capacitor is usually in a head near the work, probably in the transformer unit that he has.
Yes, the output needs to be resonant, so the frequency is determined by the output coil and the capacitor. Within limits you can move the frequency by changing the capacitor and/or the coil. The capacitor is usually in a head near the work, probably in the transformer unit that he has.
Yes, the output needs to be resonant, so the frequency is determined by the output coil and the capacitor. Within limits you can move the frequency by changing the capacitor and/or the coil. The capacitor is usually in a head near the work, probably in the transformer unit that he has.
Yes, the output needs to be resonant, so the frequency is determined by the output coil and the capacitor. Within limits you can move the frequency by changing the capacitor and/or the coil. The capacitor is usually in a head near the work, probably in the transformer unit that he has.
Yes, the output needs to be resonant, so the frequency is determined by the output coil and the capacitor. Within limits you can move the frequency by changing the capacitor and/or the coil. The capacitor is usually in a head near the work, probably in the transformer unit that he has.
yeah... most folks only know how to do the one thing... a machinist could never be a welder, logger, operator, truck driver, mechanic, knife/armor smith, musician... (I've avoided elechicken stuff, cause I'm just a little bit color blind... but if I take my time and have a spare set of eyes I can muddle my way through that too lol)
PDF...LOL Yeah I am about your age and I hated PDF service manuals or drawings etc.... Now days I don't seem to mind it. However I still prefer a good book on something rather than a screen. How the kids do stuff on a phone baffles me. I need a laptop! When I am making part I want a nice paper drawing I can make notes on with my pencil. Good stuff here. I am starting to really like your channel. Cheers
I know you don’t like to fight over words, but each 360° wrap of wire is a “turn” not a “winding”. A collection of turns makes a winding. You could call also call a winding a coil, sure. 😉
Around 24 minutes in, talking about the crappy hoses, the master machinist standing in his own fully tooled up machine shop says he doesn't know where to get the weird metric fittings? Eh, get them from your lathe?
I can, but buying pre-mades are a real savings, We probably will end up making adapter fittings to use Inch size hoses. It is currently working (we shortened the metric hoses)
Americans should have been wiser and not allowed these politicians do drive all of our industry overseas into cheap labor markets like China, India, Pakistan etc. Then let China become competitive with remaining American Industry,😢 namely the steel industry and the foundries. Because face it, these communist Chinese and analogous third world countries. Don't really have A skilled or educated labor pool to draw workers from. China has a lot of political prisoners and children building things. Pakistan and India have people going to work At the foundry and machine shop in their pajamas And flip-flops or barefoot for goodness sake. They don't use the proper metal alloys for the things that make such as Springs, bolts, nuts, various automotive and industrial parts and tools. I respect anyone who works for a living and it does honest work. When giving you substandard hoses for example ...That's not right!
That is the worst explanation I have ever heard. The coil makes a magnetic field in the steel and that causes the molecules to move around and make heat from the friction between the molecules. There is no electricity in the part getting heated just friction.
You have a great sense of humor and a wealth of real world knowledge that applicable. These are really great videos!
We had a Taco induction, heat treatment for the reverse forks in a few Tremec trannys. The fork pad area, was cherried, then quenched. Then checked on the hardness tester, for the appropriate Rockwell. The Vette clutch fork, was hardened, in the Taco too. When I worked at Universal Electric, we made portable transformers, with long heavy welding cables, sold them to Sears, to thaw pipes. Then we heated bearings and sleeves, on a bearing heater. Just put the appropriate size bar, through the bore, and waited for a temperature crayon to melt.
Great work!! I can do lots of things also and it’s good to see someone that also has a patio for the science behind what he is doing. Your skill set is so impressive. I never stop trying to learn new things. So much to learn.
What you're talking about at 16 minutes is called the cruise effect. If the nukes ever do go off, well informed jack of all trades people like yourself will be very valuable after the dust clears. I enjoy your content. Keep learning.
We have 2 of the Miller ProHeat 35 KW heaters. Low frequency. With the water coolers. They use braided copper cables inside of silicone hoses, instead of rigid copper tube coils, and we have 100 feet worth of it. We use it to install and remove big coupling, bushings and stuff like that.
Don't forget to keep your phone away from the thing. We all have killed at least one phone.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience.
Pretty cool guy telling us about induction heaters and even willing to sell one
Excellent video! Explained quite alot. Really appreciated the bit on skin effect and the influence frequency has on penetration into the surface of a metal!
Jack of all trades is a master of none. But a Jack of all trades is still better than one. Anyone that says stay in your lane about trying new lines of work is too closed minded. I’m like you pretty much. I live on an island off the coast of maine and it’s tough to get stuff here sometimes. So I was brought up to work with what you have and to repurpose as much as possible. It has guided me my entire life. Now I can pretty much do any job I need to.
O man this is great, more vids on this! Do a whole series please!
Wonderful video. Lots off very interesting info. Would not mind a few videos on your electrical side of things.
There is a control transformer in there that converts 480 to whatever the control boards use. 15 volts or some such thing. That seems to be the only thing they change for the other voltages. In our experience the rectifier and transistors seem to work at almost any voltage up to 480.
"STAY IN YOUR LANE" hahahahahahahah boy oh boy ive heard that before.
Pulsed DC is alternating in the sense that it's alternating between on & off.
But as we know the conventional terminology for alternating is switching between positive & negative.
actually, pulsed dc can be viewed as a sum of ac signal, centered around the mdian value (see Fourrier transform). as far as i know, only permanent dc had no alternative components.
The need to heat the shaft till its cheery red using induction heating is high cost but cheaper than trying to replace the part. Over the yrs I have studyed engineering hydraulic, pnematics. With computers theres still not a mature reference but I dabled in computer programming like multi plexing. Archives are a good search area. Databases can store monumental amounts of information , Ive used Perl but everyone uses and collects there information different ways, USB sticks , anything portable like a book dosent require electricity to sit and read is still handy as long as you have a place to put it after reading it.
Greetings! This video appears to be ten times longer than the material required. Best of luck!
I have thought about building a 5-10 kw induction heater, running off DC, using a push pull with a transformer, basically a inverter, and use it to power a induction cooker also, basically build a induction cook stove, that I can use as a tool in the home shop also, maybe experiment with a induction oven, using a grate made from 1" rebar, with a coil just under it , with a Teflon sheet between making cleaning easy, maybe a couple 3bar grates on each side also, with another large grate for broil, using a polished aluminum plate to reflect heat, or a reflective ceramic coating, use a pwm secondary pulse to control the heat, 500° -600°f should be fairly easy, with such large grates and coils, weld the grate in a shape to take advantage of the induction coil possibly have two coils, a top coil. And a lower coil that wraps up each side to induce currents in the side grates, using cooling hoses and heat exchanger to supply house water for home use, stored in a small water heater tank, things you do when off grid with solar power, do some experiments to see how it works out, convert a electric stove to 24/48v induction, I'm thinking about going to 48v to add more solar without having to add more charge controllers, and I can't run a electric stove from my inverter, it's either that or going gas, using a 20-100 lb propane tank for the stove, I have a propane gas tankless water heater , I'm planning to build a small boiler on my wood stove to work as a water heater with a heat exchanger, allowing a fire to be built fill with wood and possibly have hot water for days, up to 48-60; hours also use a pump to circulate water through a few radiators in the house, with pwm controlled fans, use a 15gp roughly pump to flow the water under 5-7psi total pressure, to reduce boiling, use 1" pex main line dropped to 1/2" to go to the radiator using a ball valve to control heat in the area. With a thermostat controlling the pump, and fans, using about 2-4amp at 48v total, use a DC to DC buck converter, to drop to 12-14v for the fans , however the pwm will equal about 6-8v using the 10"-16" fans at low speed. Just enough to move the air, using a large capacitor to prevent voltage spikes, in the charge controllers, possibly use excess solar to power a induction coil to heat the water gse a few pieces of rebar wrapped in copper tubing. Then a ceramic wool insulation, then a coil wrapped around it. The coil being between 1/8" and 1/4" from the water tubing similar to a heat exchanger, only wrapped around a 2" PVC pipe , no insulation. Then wrap the PVC with 1/2" copper , two coils per line to allow more flow, then place in a 5 gallon bucket bof water, with insulation, and placed inside a 1" thick foam board insulation, it may take a hour to heat up but should hold heat for a while also, with two 20' coils heating and the same removing heat, the bucket will nearly be full of copper tubing.. sorry bro ramble,
I wish I had Access to all that machinery. I'd build two engines and a boiler, one steam engine, a double action two cylinder, with a 3rs cylinder using the exhaust, with the bore made from steel pipe, 12"-18" stroke with 8" bore, with the secondary expansion cylinder being 12". Double acting. The exhaust from one cylinder push it down, then the other cylinder pushing it up, both being double acting it's a bit complex. Build it like half a vw vr6, basically a narrow v3, 18°+/- to possibly 'fire' or expand,/' pressurized the two cylinders at once, exhaust into the large cylinder, then pressurize the bottom of the piston pushing up the piston and exhaust into the bottom of the large bore. This may be vise versa, or something similar. Running at 150-200psi. With a 250 psi safety running a 1.5" pipe at 150-200 psi in operation, 90-100psi minimum.. use it to generate roughly 600 amps at 24v 300a at 48v (30/60v roughly) and about 130-200a at 12v. Plus an air compressor, a 3-5hp unit with a couple 40 gallon tanks, possibly a 60-80 gallon, so 300plus gallon at 140-150 psi, using an electric clutch. Use the compressed air in shop, also for a small converted engine a 8-10 HP engine converted to run on air or steam, spinning a 150a alternator at 48v uding a A modified head and ball valves using a concentric mounted on the crank, with a large flywheel possibly from manual 4.3L V6 from a 90
C/k1500 weighing about 40-50 lbs maybe use two, one on each side, a 1/2"pipe and ball valves, a concentric with a brass bushing, with old school oiler, using gear oil, and a brass ring in the follower, opening and closing the valves, with the concentric posable to be clocked by grub and dimple in the hub on the crank. With tick marks on each piece, and numbers, the actual timing maybe changed slightly depending on the load and RPM, a flat head made from aluminum about 1/2" thick, with a pair of 1/2" not threads, with ball valves, using a copper or viton o-ring to seal it to the engine, use a 1/8" not plug to drain the cylinder if water condensed inside it. To prevent damage, if stem is condensed possibly use a spring loaded check valve, with just enough pressure to only trigger if water is in the engine say it runs at up to 150 psi, set the firing adjustment, to keep it closed at 160-180 then open, with the plug/ relief at the lowest part of the cylinder. It should clear it's self if water enters the cylinder. Yet checking and clearing before use is a good idea, running on air there is a less chance of water, yet it's still there, and can damage cranks, rods and blocks, the air should run the engine for nearly a hour , making just over 1300-1500 wh.
Sorry again for rambling again, getting off topic a bit, good day if you are still here😆✌️
Thank You for wishing Me a good day, I use propane for cooking & like it a lot better than electric. You could tap or replace the resistor heating elements in a stove, or build a bigger inverter to 220 volt, but again I like propane cooking. I also have cooked on wood/coal stoves when out at a mining camp, they work but take a lot of tending. Have a very good day.
Lot of info 👍
Anytime I feel intelligent I come here and get reminded of my level .
I would guess that the power supply doesn't want you to fiddle with the timing because they don't want you to go away from zero crossing, because you need some really beefy power electronics to go there. As for the input voltage, I suppose it's immediately rectified and filtered, so we don't really care bout it's real voltage as long as the capacitors are rated for it.
Yes, the output needs to be resonant, so the frequency is determined by the output coil and the capacitor. Within limits you can move the frequency by changing the capacitor and/or the coil. The capacitor is usually in a head near the work, probably in the transformer unit that he has.
Yes, the output needs to be resonant, so the frequency is determined by the output coil and the capacitor. Within limits you can move the frequency by changing the capacitor and/or the coil. The capacitor is usually in a head near the work, probably in the transformer unit that he has.
Yes, the output needs to be resonant, so the frequency is determined by the output coil and the capacitor. Within limits you can move the frequency by changing the capacitor and/or the coil. The capacitor is usually in a head near the work, probably in the transformer unit that he has.
Yes, the output needs to be resonant, so the frequency is determined by the output coil and the capacitor. Within limits you can move the frequency by changing the capacitor and/or the coil. The capacitor is usually in a head near the work, probably in the transformer unit that he has.
Yes, the output needs to be resonant, so the frequency is determined by the output coil and the capacitor. Within limits you can move the frequency by changing the capacitor and/or the coil. The capacitor is usually in a head near the work, probably in the transformer unit that he has.
Radyne, I think?
"Had a glowing red, 7-1/2" shaft inside of it" ... 😶 😏
Sparky! Put away your #redrocket !
Thank You
yeah... most folks only know how to do the one thing... a machinist could never be a welder, logger, operator, truck driver, mechanic, knife/armor smith, musician... (I've avoided elechicken stuff, cause I'm just a little bit color blind... but if I take my time and have a spare set of eyes I can muddle my way through that too lol)
PDF...LOL Yeah I am about your age and I hated PDF service manuals or drawings etc.... Now days I don't seem to mind it. However I still prefer a good book on something rather than a screen. How the kids do stuff on a phone baffles me. I need a laptop! When I am making part I want a nice paper drawing I can make notes on with my pencil. Good stuff here. I am starting to really like your channel. Cheers
I know you don’t like to fight over words, but each 360° wrap of wire is a “turn” not a “winding”. A collection of turns makes a winding. You could call also call a winding a coil, sure. 😉
Around 24 minutes in, talking about the crappy hoses, the master machinist standing in his own fully tooled up machine shop says he doesn't know where to get the weird metric fittings? Eh, get them from your lathe?
I can, but buying pre-mades are a real savings, We probably will end up making adapter fittings to use Inch size hoses. It is currently working (we shortened the metric hoses)
9
Americans should have been wiser and not allowed these politicians do drive all of our industry overseas into cheap labor markets like China, India, Pakistan etc.
Then let China become competitive with remaining American Industry,😢 namely the steel industry and the foundries.
Because face it, these communist Chinese and analogous third world countries.
Don't really have A skilled or educated labor pool to draw workers from.
China has a lot of political prisoners and children building things.
Pakistan and India have people going to work At the foundry and machine shop in their pajamas And flip-flops or barefoot for goodness sake.
They don't use the proper metal alloys for the things that make such as Springs, bolts, nuts, various automotive and industrial parts and tools.
I respect anyone who works for a living and it does honest work.
When giving you substandard hoses for example ...That's not right!
That is the worst explanation I have ever heard. The coil makes a magnetic field in the steel and that causes the molecules to move around and make heat from the friction between the molecules. There is no electricity in the part getting heated just friction.
How many crystals of what size move with each molecule? of iron? carbon? friction of what?, the nucleus? or the outer electrons?