Update it's been one year since I rigged up this linkage and it still works flawlessly. The only change I would make if I had it to do all over again would be to drill the hole higher on the transmission hump (using a longer socket extension underneath of course) so I don't have to lean over as far to reach the handle. Has anyone done the modification where you cut the wire that tricks the traction control into remaining functional after the vehicle has been turned off and restarted with the differential lock engaged? If so here are my questions to you: Does your CDL indicator light still light up when the CDL is locked? Does your traction control work as well as it did before you cut the wire? right now my traction control works perfectly I just have to remember disengage the CDL before I shut the vehicle off; for those of you that don't know: if you forget to do this I have to start your rig, unlock the CDL shut the vehicle off, restart the vehicle and re engage the CDL to restore your traction control and your friends make fun of you.
Awesome idea, seems more robust than the PTO cable I was thinking about rigging up. I'm thinking going straight down through the center console so the socket extension comes up near the hi/lo shifter, for easy access, and to eliminate having to use a u-joint.
Thank you, I'm sorry I didn't get back to you sooner; for some reason I didn't get a notification of your comment. My first thought was to drill straight down as well; the only reason I didn't do that was I didn't know what was under the center console cover and to remove it is a pain in the neck. Also I was worried about something breaking when I was prying the various plastic pieces apart and just didn't feel like dealing with it. I just did it this way because it was easy . A straight shot would be better as well as having it up high for easy access.
This looks great, I really want to do it. How did you seal that whole so water didn't get in? I see the hose but that seems like it wouldn't prevent water from getting in the hole that was drilled. Also, where did you get that plastic piece to clean it up on the inside?
Thank you. My original plan to seal this setup was to have a rubber grommet where the socket extension goes through the sheet metal of the chassis, unfortunately I couldn't get the grommet to stay in. The problem I had was the quarter inch fitting is fatter than the rest of the shaft, I thought I could just muscle it through but it didn't work out. Now that I think about it: maybe if you slid a grommet over the shaft before you welded the universal join on that might work but I'm not sure if they make a grommet that will fit both the hole and be tight around the shaft. You've got me brainstorming now: here's another idea off the top of my head: poke a hole in a piece of inner tube, slide the extension through and then attach the u joint and socket, slide the assembly in and then use an adhesive silicone to attach inner tube to sheet metal being careful not to get any silicone on the shaft so it still spins although it probably wouldn't matter since it's only 1/4 turn. Use masking tape to hold it in place until it dries. I wish I would have thought of this a year ago! Here's what I ended up doing: I just squirted a bunch of silicone around the hole from both sides and so far so good. I haven't driven through any deep rivers but I imagine the water would start coming in through my door seals first. The clear hose you see is just what I had laying around and it's only purpose is to keep the socket and extension from lifting up off of the two nuts. And yes you're right the rubber cover you see was just too clean up the ugly hole I drilled in my carpet. That rubber piece is actually a mount for a rock light which I didn't use because my neighbor showed me a better way to attach rock lights which is to: place them face down hold on a piece of masking tape, apply silicone to the back of the light and just tape them in place until the silicone dries! No muss no fuss and if you need to remove the light he said you can just use a putty knife. Anyway these are all just ideas you may come up with something better than I did.
Before I built the linkage I crawled underneath just to see if I could turn the nipple using a 15 mm on the squared off part below the threads; it worked but it was hard getting my arm up in there around the drive shaft. To have your traction control work with the CDL you have to engage the CDL when the vehicle is running, if you shut your engine off and start it again the traction control will disengage. In short you could crawl underneath every time but it would be a real pain in the neck.
That's a very good question! Here's my reason for doing it this way: I started to take the center console apart to fit an aftermarket kit in there; the kit itself at the time was $700.00 and it would've realistically taken me two days to install it, When I started taking the center console apart I couldn't even get the gear shift knob off without fear of breaking it, other parts seemed like they would probably snap during disassembly and not to mention the fact that to install the kit requires cutting the sheet metal. in short I didn't wanna put the time into the labor and possibly be running back and forth to junk yards for or replacement parts. I had also as you suggested thought about putting a stock shifter in there but it seemed like a real pain in the neck as well. You mentioned the slabs unit: is that supposed to disable the traction control when the center differential is locked on the 04?
@@CFRoach I see. I just got an 01 Disco 2 for $750 because it needs a head gasket job and my friend didn’t want it anymore so it’s going to be my weekend trail rig/project vehicle. I was planning on adapting the linkage to the shifter. The slabs ecu unit for an 04 disco is different since it has the linkage and cdl. It lets tc and everything work properly while cdl is engaged, no trickery involved. One can just take it out of a junked 04 and plug and play into an older disco 2. Otherwise I thinks it’s around $500 for a new one.
@@brett7935 the head gaskets on these things are considered normal maintenance because they're put together by robots that don't know how to use a torque wrench. instead: The robots count the number of turns and can sometimes be half a turn off, to compensate for this land rover and other manufacturers sometimes use stretch bolts; the thought being that the stretch bolts will compensate for the uneven torque and apply a even pressure to the head gasket. What ends up happening is As the name implies the bolts do stretch: when the engine heats up the head moves slightly and when it cools off they slide back the other way slowly but surely sanding off the head gasket which is why land rover recommends changing the head gasket every 100,000 miles. To get around that I purchased a set of studs from ARB I went with the kit for the Buick 215 (same block different heads) which is a little cheaper and I also used the head Bolt torque specs for the buick motor since the ARB torque specs made absolutely no sense (85 foot pounds) Gee I wonder why guys are reporting they're tearing the threads out of their aluminum block and the guy at the head shop told me they're also breaking the corners off the heads) the torque specs for the Buick head bolts are 65 foot pounds I pushed it a little farther and went with 70 (65 foot pounds is normal with a steel block and that size bolt so considering I was screwing into aluminum 70 was pushing it but worked out) also on the advice of a British builder I went with the stock head gasket I'm sorry but the brand escapes me. check out the Atlantic British videos but trust me (I'm an engineer) do not follow the torque specs they recommend! also feel free to drop me a line; us Land Rovers have to stick together! I always wondered if the slabs unit in those vehicles with the center diff lock varied the pressure going to the brakes as opposed to the way I have to trick my computer (have the truck running first). IE: does having the right slab in there make the traction control function the same as tricking the computer or is there a difference?
@@CFRoach I think it makes it work the same without having to trick the computer. It doesn’t matter if and when you turn the truck off, with the cdl engaged, everything should work normally. As far as the head gaskets, I’ve been reading a lot on studs vs bolts. On the Land Rover forums it’s a big argument. One mechanical engineer claims that stretch bolts will provide the better even clamping force. Another guy claims studs are better. Another guy said studs would be technically better, but you need to re check/tighten the stud nuts after a short break in period, or else’ you risk them loosening…I do not want to have to take everything back off just to do a recheck after 1000 miles. I hope it’s the gasket. I did a compression check and every cylinder is between 160-180 lbs psi except number 7, which give me back zero. I did the squirt oil trick and it still came back zero. The only way to know for sure is take the head off. I know the engine is loud like an exhaust leak behind the engine. It’s also very spit and sputter until you get it up to highway rpm. I did drive it about 70 miles home and the temp stayed neutral and I checked the coolant level every 15 min and it barely lost any. If it’s more than a head gasket and it needs a new engine, I’m seriously considering a gm ls swap. We shall see, but I’ll definitely talk back and forth for any advice, tips, tricks, and whathaveyous ;)
@@brett7935 the funny thing is mechanical engineer designed it in the first place and once one looks at it at face value it's obviously a bad design that's Why the head gasket blows and why are they sell the stud kits by the dozens. Every car we've ever purchased in our lives that had real head bolts only had them torqued once at the factory buy a actual human with a torque wrench. There's a ton of misinformation out there, People just repeat what they hear. I've built many motors and never re-torqued a single one including my rover. When my head gasket blew I think it was number 8 the most common one (looking at the motor from the front it was the back left side) but it was only leaking coolant on the back of the motor. The only time I've ever had zero compression was when I had a valve that was stuck open; I've never personally seen a head gasket caused zero compression. I live in California so moving to a better motor is an extreme hassle because of the smog laws; it can be done I just didn't want to do it. if you're able to put a better motor in there with little hassle I would definitely do it! Thank you so much for answering my question about the slabs, I've asked other people and poked around on the Internet to no avail. No one even had a guess. I've also heard there's a wire under the dash that I can just cut to make everything work together but: with all the electrical and computer problems I've had (three Amigos sun roofs opening by themselves with the truck off, truck trying to level itself when parked etc) I don't wanna mess with it. Good Luck
Great question! No I just use the trick of making sure my rig is running before I engage the CDL to trick my computer. I thought about cutting the wire but I figured I'd quit while I was ahead; it works beautifully! I wish I would have done this years ago it's so much smoother and safer now going up and down hills Not having to be on the gas to engage the traction control IE: being able to crawl is great!
@@CFRoach sorry to be a pain but ive read so many opposing thoughts on this,,could you explain further the engagement and disengagment procedure,,some say when the ignition is off some when its running lol,,im certainly going this route though maybe using a flexible drive ,,,cant find a used 300tdi linkage and not paying for the ashcroft lol
@@billrand4138 it's good you're asking questions there's a lot of misinformation out there. Here's the procedure: the car has to be running (I do it when it's standing still not sure about that part) first before you engage the CDL otherwise it bypasses the traction control. If you turn it off and turn it back on with the CDL locked that will bypass the traction control. What I do is I try to remember to disengage the CDL before I turn my rig off; that way I don't have to shut it off again to get the traction control going. Also when you turn the lever it's actually pushing a spring and the spring is what pushes the gears together. Sometimes you have to drive a little bit before the cdl will engage or disengage.
@@CFRoach cheers mate,,,yep i know about the driving a bit to cleat it as ive had a 200 and 300 before. Well i think i will start getting my bits together for the job,,as i said im looking at using a flexible extension instead of a solid plus swivel. Just for info i have an old series 2a lightwieght on the drive that ive been meaning to get back on the road for 15yrs lol,,,along with a pretty nice 92 range rover classic brooklands i cant afford to run ,,, sunaday car lor
@@billrand4138 I tried running a 1/4" flexible extension first but the angle didn't work out: it bowed, flopped and twisted and didn't provide a positive feel; I can feel the click better with the solid extension and swivel. Maybe if you drilled the hole up higher and had a straighter shot it would work well, but in my case it wasn't good. Sounds like you have quite the collection! I only use mine as a Sunday driver as well; it gets gallons per mile instead of miles per gallon! I'm sure you can relate; but I imagine where you are you're using a sensible measuring system based on 10s your rigs probably get: liters per kilometer and if you run out of gas (petrol) you're in danger of being killed by a Saltwater Koala Dingo or something.
Update it's been one year since I rigged up this linkage and it still works flawlessly. The only change I would make if I had it to do all over again would be to drill the hole higher on the transmission hump (using a longer socket extension underneath of course) so I don't have to lean over as far to reach the handle. Has anyone done the modification where you cut the wire that tricks the traction control into remaining functional after the vehicle has been turned off and restarted with the differential lock engaged? If so here are my questions to you: Does your CDL indicator light still light up when the CDL is locked? Does your traction control work as well as it did before you cut the wire? right now my traction control works perfectly I just have to remember disengage the CDL before I shut the vehicle off; for those of you that don't know: if you forget to do this I have to start your rig, unlock the CDL shut the vehicle off, restart the vehicle and re engage the CDL to restore your traction control and your friends make fun of you.
Awesome idea, seems more robust than the PTO cable I was thinking about rigging up.
I'm thinking going straight down through the center console so the socket extension comes up near the hi/lo shifter, for easy access, and to eliminate having to use a u-joint.
Thank you, I'm sorry I didn't get back to you sooner; for some reason I didn't get a notification of your comment. My first thought was to drill straight down as well; the only reason I didn't do that was I didn't know what was under the center console cover and to remove it is a pain in the neck. Also I was worried about something breaking when I was prying the various plastic pieces apart and just didn't feel like dealing with it. I just did it this way because it was easy . A straight shot would be better as well as having it up high for easy access.
Nice practical and simple function ! Good work!
Thank You!
This looks great, I really want to do it. How did you seal that whole so water didn't get in? I see the hose but that seems like it wouldn't prevent water from getting in the hole that was drilled. Also, where did you get that plastic piece to clean it up on the inside?
Thank you. My original plan to seal this setup was to have a rubber grommet where the socket extension goes through the sheet metal of the chassis, unfortunately I couldn't get the grommet to stay in. The problem I had was the quarter inch fitting is fatter than the rest of the shaft, I thought I could just muscle it through but it didn't work out. Now that I think about it: maybe if you slid a grommet over the shaft before you welded the universal join on that might work but I'm not sure if they make a grommet that will fit both the hole and be tight around the shaft. You've got me brainstorming now: here's another idea off the top of my head: poke a hole in a piece of inner tube, slide the extension through and then attach the u joint and socket, slide the assembly in and then use an adhesive silicone to attach inner tube to sheet metal being careful not to get any silicone on the shaft so it still spins although it probably wouldn't matter since it's only 1/4 turn. Use masking tape to hold it in place until it dries. I wish I would have thought of this a year ago! Here's what I ended up doing: I just squirted a bunch of silicone around the hole from both sides and so far so good. I haven't driven through any deep rivers but I imagine the water would start coming in through my door seals first. The clear hose you see is just what I had laying around and it's only purpose is to keep the socket and extension from lifting up off of the two nuts. And yes you're right the rubber cover you see was just too clean up the ugly hole I drilled in my carpet. That rubber piece is actually a mount for a rock light which I didn't use because my neighbor showed me a better way to attach rock lights which is to: place them face down hold on a piece of masking tape, apply silicone to the back of the light and just tape them in place until the silicone dries! No muss no fuss and if you need to remove the light he said you can just use a putty knife. Anyway these are all just ideas you may come up with something better than I did.
Hey mate,great idea with the cdl, ive put the nuts onto the nipple,can i just crawl under with a socket to engage disengage?
Before I built the linkage I crawled underneath just to see if I could turn the nipple using a 15 mm on the squared off part below the threads; it worked but it was hard getting my arm up in there around the drive shaft. To have your traction control work with the CDL you have to engage the CDL when the vehicle is running, if you shut your engine off and start it again the traction control will disengage. In short you could crawl underneath every time but it would be a real pain in the neck.
Why not get an 04 linkage and slabs unit and and just fit the linkage to the shifter?
That's a very good question! Here's my reason for doing it this way: I started to take the center console apart to fit an aftermarket kit in there; the kit itself at the time was $700.00 and it would've realistically taken me two days to install it, When I started taking the center console apart I couldn't even get the gear shift knob off without fear of breaking it, other parts seemed like they would probably snap during disassembly and not to mention the fact that to install the kit requires cutting the sheet metal. in short I didn't wanna put the time into the labor and possibly be running back and forth to junk yards for or replacement parts. I had also as you suggested thought about putting a stock shifter in there but it seemed like a real pain in the neck as well. You mentioned the slabs unit: is that supposed to disable the traction control when the center differential is locked on the 04?
@@CFRoach I see. I just got an 01 Disco 2 for $750 because it needs a head gasket job and my friend didn’t want it anymore so it’s going to be my weekend trail rig/project vehicle.
I was planning on adapting the linkage to the shifter.
The slabs ecu unit for an 04 disco is different since it has the linkage and cdl. It lets tc and everything work properly while cdl is engaged, no trickery involved. One can just take it out of a junked 04 and plug and play into an older disco 2.
Otherwise I thinks it’s around $500 for a new one.
@@brett7935 the head gaskets on these things are considered normal maintenance because they're put together by robots that don't know how to use a torque wrench. instead: The robots count the number of turns and can sometimes be half a turn off, to compensate for this land rover and other manufacturers sometimes use stretch bolts; the thought being that the stretch bolts will compensate for the uneven torque and apply a even pressure to the head gasket. What ends up happening is As the name implies the bolts do stretch: when the engine heats up the head moves slightly and when it cools off they slide back the other way slowly but surely sanding off the head gasket which is why land rover recommends changing the head gasket every 100,000 miles. To get around that I purchased a set of studs from ARB I went with the kit for the Buick 215 (same block different heads) which is a little cheaper and I also used the head Bolt torque specs for the buick motor since the ARB torque specs made absolutely no sense (85 foot pounds) Gee I wonder why guys are reporting they're tearing the threads out of their aluminum block and the guy at the head shop told me they're also breaking the corners off the heads) the torque specs for the Buick head bolts are 65 foot pounds I pushed it a little farther and went with 70 (65 foot pounds is normal with a steel block and that size bolt so considering I was screwing into aluminum 70 was pushing it but worked out) also on the advice of a British builder I went with the stock head gasket I'm sorry but the brand escapes me. check out the Atlantic British videos but trust me (I'm an engineer) do not follow the torque specs they recommend! also feel free to drop me a line; us Land Rovers have to stick together!
I always wondered if the slabs unit in those vehicles with the center diff lock varied the pressure going to the brakes as opposed to the way I have to trick my computer (have the truck running first). IE: does having the right slab in there make the traction control function the same as tricking the computer or is there a difference?
@@CFRoach I think it makes it work the same without having to trick the computer. It doesn’t matter if and when you turn the truck off, with the cdl engaged, everything should work normally.
As far as the head gaskets, I’ve been reading a lot on studs vs bolts. On the Land Rover forums it’s a big argument. One mechanical engineer claims that stretch bolts will provide the better even clamping force. Another guy claims studs are better.
Another guy said studs would be technically better, but you need to re check/tighten the stud nuts after a short break in period, or else’ you risk them loosening…I do not want to have to take everything back off just to do a recheck after 1000 miles.
I hope it’s the gasket. I did a compression check and every cylinder is between 160-180 lbs psi except number 7, which give me back zero. I did the squirt oil trick and it still came back zero. The only way to know for sure is take the head off. I know the engine is loud like an exhaust leak behind the engine. It’s also very spit and sputter until you get it up to highway rpm. I did drive it about 70 miles home and the temp stayed neutral and I checked the coolant level every 15 min and it barely lost any.
If it’s more than a head gasket and it needs a new engine, I’m seriously considering a gm ls swap.
We shall see, but I’ll definitely talk back and forth for any advice, tips, tricks, and whathaveyous ;)
@@brett7935 the funny thing is mechanical engineer designed it in the first place and once one looks at it at face value it's obviously a bad design that's Why the head gasket blows and why are they sell the stud kits by the dozens. Every car we've ever purchased in our lives that had real head bolts only had them torqued once at the factory buy a actual human with a torque wrench. There's a ton of misinformation out there, People just repeat what they hear. I've built many motors and never re-torqued a single one including my rover.
When my head gasket blew I think it was number 8 the most common one (looking at the motor from the front it was the back left side) but it was only leaking coolant on the back of the motor. The only time I've ever had zero compression was when I had a valve that was stuck open; I've never personally seen a head gasket caused zero compression.
I live in California so moving to a better motor is an extreme hassle because of the smog laws; it can be done I just didn't want to do it. if you're able to put a better motor in there with little hassle I would definitely do it!
Thank you so much for answering my question about the slabs, I've asked other people and poked around on the Internet to no avail. No one even had a guess. I've also heard there's a wire under the dash that I can just cut to make everything work together but: with all the electrical and computer problems I've had (three Amigos sun roofs opening by themselves with the truck off, truck trying to level itself when parked etc) I don't wanna mess with it.
Good Luck
great,,,did you cut the wire so that the tc still works with the cdl?
Great question! No I just use the trick of making sure my rig is running before I engage the CDL to trick my computer. I thought about cutting the wire but I figured I'd quit while I was ahead; it works beautifully! I wish I would have done this years ago it's so much smoother and safer now going up and down hills Not having to be on the gas to engage the traction control IE: being able to crawl is great!
@@CFRoach sorry to be a pain but ive read so many opposing thoughts on this,,could you explain further the engagement and disengagment procedure,,some say when the ignition is off some when its running lol,,im certainly going this route though maybe using a flexible drive ,,,cant find a used 300tdi linkage and not paying for the ashcroft lol
@@billrand4138 it's good you're asking questions there's a lot of misinformation out there. Here's the procedure: the car has to be running (I do it when it's standing still not sure about that part) first before you engage the CDL otherwise it bypasses the traction control. If you turn it off and turn it back on with the CDL locked that will bypass the traction control. What I do is I try to remember to disengage the CDL before I turn my rig off; that way I don't have to shut it off again to get the traction control going. Also when you turn the lever it's actually pushing a spring and the spring is what pushes the gears together. Sometimes you have to drive a little bit before the cdl will engage or disengage.
@@CFRoach cheers mate,,,yep i know about the driving a bit to cleat it as ive had a 200 and 300 before. Well i think i will start getting my bits together for the job,,as i said im looking at using a flexible extension instead of a solid plus swivel. Just for info i have an old series 2a lightwieght on the drive that ive been meaning to get back on the road for 15yrs lol,,,along with a pretty nice 92 range rover classic brooklands i cant afford to run ,,, sunaday car lor
@@billrand4138 I tried running a 1/4" flexible extension first but the angle didn't work out: it bowed, flopped and twisted and didn't provide a positive feel; I can feel the click better with the solid extension and swivel. Maybe if you drilled the hole up higher and had a straighter shot it would work well, but in my case it wasn't good. Sounds like you have quite the collection! I only use mine as a Sunday driver as well; it gets gallons per mile instead of miles per gallon! I'm sure you can relate; but I imagine where you are you're using a sensible measuring system based on 10s your rigs probably get: liters per kilometer and if you run out of gas (petrol) you're in danger of being killed by a Saltwater Koala Dingo or something.