Mr. Super Clear's flat (esp the UV cut variant) is my go-to. LOVE how effective it mutes the colors and I love the slight chalky/dusty texture it gives.
Thank. you. I have the original Mr.Super Clear, not the UV one on hand and was hoping that I could use it to seal the figure. I did use it as a base before I started to paint. This is my first time painting a wargaming figure.It's a surprise birthday gift for my son. After spending many hours painting it, I didn't want to ruin it with a sealer. I so appreciate your comment. I have been researching sealers. One blog I read said not to use MSC but I have read others since that say they use it like you.
tamiya ts-80 user here! painted my gunpla with some details using mr.hobby acrylic paint and walmart folkart acrylic art paint, tamiya panel lining... most of the gunpla have no paint at all, decals are placed as well... ts-80 lacquer paint have no issue at all. best results! smooth and flat! make sure to dip can in hot water first for atleast 3mins and spray in a hot weather if you're outside.
A great explanation and comparison video which is exactly what I was looking for, with all the many types of topcoats available in the market this will make it easier to make an informed decision. Hats off to you!!
This was an incredibly informative video, thank you so much for posting it! This is something I've been researching for a while, and I'm happy to finally see a side by side comparison. The only thing I'd add is that from what I've heard, the Krylon topcoat is prone to yellowing. Maybe you could leave the spoons in the sun for a week and see how they're affected?
@blaze084 The UV-Resistant matte clear coat can be found here: krylon.com/products/uvresistant-clear-coating and you can find it at your local hobby/craft store. You can find it on Amazon here: amzn.com/B004O7HTDQ
Wow i just knew that top coat of mr hobby is actually acrylic. I will definitely try that one. I wonder if 1 can is enough to do a small gunpla? (Building one with my son now) Anyway thank you so much@@DZMaven for going through this experiment and sharing the video with us! Really appreciate this.
You'll find most outdoor model railroaders use Krylon, 1- size of can, 2- size of our models. I use Krylon flat, UV resistant. FYI: sunlight will cause the lacquer to yellow, stands out over white. I use Krylon on plastic & wood (painted & bare). Krylon also has a version formulated for plastics. Testors Dullcoat I apply with an airbrush, I don't care for the spray cans. Dullcoat is a lacquer, bottle (for airbrushing or brush on) has a pink label, spray can is silver & black under the Model Master line which Rust-Oleum discontinued. Not the same as the spray on enamel clears. I use gloss clears for tuffness then spray on a flat or satin clear coat for a final look. FYI: the talc in the flat & satin clears actually softens the finish, glosses are tougher. This is much more noticeable in wood finishes.
Thank you so much for this! Dullcote is the dominate sealer in my hobby because it’s so easy to get, but I really don’t like it and this really helped me decide how these other sealers would work on painted model horses in comparison.
Know most of this but needed a refresher for ideas on some old early 2000s figures that I want to protect for my son who will be playing with them... as long as I don’t end up going crazy on detailing them.
Thanks for the thorough review. I've been using Krylon Crystal Clear gloss before panel lining and decals, but I've been hesitant to pick out a matte coat for finishing. Appreciate all the effort, helps take some of the guess work! I'll be checking out your other vids since this was so good!
Thank you for posting! I had a little issue on a reborn (zombie baby) doll repaint where it scratched easily...I included a link to your video in my description. THANK YOU for providing this informative video!
Great video! Thanks for the comparisons. I have always been wondering about the different top coats. Years and years ago, I had a horrible experience with the Testors. The semi-gloss top coat that I put on my non-grade 1:144 Nu Gundam came out super thick and was hard to control. When dried, the model had a very noticeable sickly yellow tint to it. It basically destroyed the look of the model. =( Since then, I avoided Testors like a plague and switched to using Tamiya clear flat. Most of the time, the results were great. I did noticed occasional bleeding from Gundam Marker lines on bare plastic though.
Thanks! That kind of echoes my experiences. I don't remember what I used exactly on my PG Wing Zero Custom but it did yellow over the years but it might had been a testors high-gloss clear.
I haven't been painting that long lol but I'm going on 10 years, painted all my own cars with krylon and I've NEVER even tried anything else because I loved it so much. The colors are amazing and if you do all your prep work right the colors look like you just took it to a "professional" paint shop. 🤘🏻
To add my 2 cents, any can is potentially your worst enemy and your best friend. It's also a huge factor the weather and temp when you spray, and also if you get a dud can. Not willing to die in a ditch over it, but Testors have always given me great results, but it's also down to what you have become familiar with and your actual skill in apply thin, and I mean multiple thin coats.
Thanks for this. I was going to get Testors but seeing as in it doesn't work well with the Gundam Marker I'm going to pick up the Krylon which is easier to find anyway.
Duo 20 I recommend alclad II for topcoats. Been getting some really great results. Edit: Sorry, forgot to mention.. I’m not sure if it comes in a can, I use it though an airbrush.
@@statoilbensin2190 Haha you're talking to the guy who imported 100$ worth of Umaibo from Japan but even so I'm a broke bastard so if I find a cheaper alternative then I have to go for it lol
So I got a can of the Mr. Hobby - Mr Super Clear - Gloss waiting to be used, but I'm a tad nervous about trying it on a kit lol. I primarily use Gundam Markers (the fine tipped 3 - black, gray, and brown) for my panel lining since I'm a bit of a beginner at the moment. Never once painted a kit, but am considering giving it a try at some point. I heard that Lacquer based cans would cause some panel line running, but I notice here that your panel lining on the Mr. Hobby spoons seemed like they survived ok on the plastic areas, so it has put my mind at ease for trying it out on an unpainted HG. Thanks :D Now another concern I had was, if I see any orange peel texture form after it dries, is it safe to try sanding it down somehow, and if so what grits do you recommend? I am worried about messing up the topcoat if I attempt to sand it after it's dried up lol. Finally do you recommend any other safety tips for when you go to spray? I know it's important to do it outside and downwind with the fumes blowing away from you, but was there any other precautions I should take? A mask? some gloves of some kind? Do I set the piece down on a surface or hold it on up in a clamp or something? Thanks again for the video.
Alligator clips on skewers work fine for holding parts while painting. Stick them into something like foam or cardboard to let them dry. I usually wear gloves to keep paint off my hands.
Wait, the tamiya panel line accent color is the most pro option? I used it on my first build ever and had no issues, wasn't that much expensive either, as far as I remember.
yo thanks for this super helpful video, i havent tried topcoat to any of my gunpla's yet. so far i've built just 4 of them. but definitely looking into it. might try to mr.hobby one. anyways i realize you play valkyria chronicles 4 and wow i thought itd be hard to find anyone who builds gunpla and also play this game lol. anyways i'm only 3/4 done on that game and i really need to go back and finish it, maybe then your play thrus can be helpful if i needed some help. anyways just thank you and dropping a message to say hi :)
So Top Coat N1 and Mr. Super Clear N2, sadly they are very expensive and shipping costs like half of the product. I will try opaque fixatives for watercolors and pastels which are cheaper. still very useful video, I don't know if the black lines are made with 3 different types of black ink (marker, ink or other)
Nicely done video, and looks like a good attempt at scientific testing. For info sake, I've been reading that Krylon potentially changed, and tends to be more foggy now days. I'd test it before using it on a model, just in case, possible they applied it wrong, or maybe it did change.
DZMaven, can you recommend a safety mask to wear when using these top coats? Will regular paint respirators from the home improvement store do? It's my understanding that Mr. Hobby topcoats are more toxic than the others. In this case, would a half-mask heavy duty respirator be needed? Any info is greatly appreciated.
Can I ask for your opinion on one thing tho? I'm planning to topcoat an unpainted kit that is panel lined with Sakura Micron pens and some other fine point drawing pens. I painted some small details throughout the kit using Gundam Markers, Sharpies and Artline paint markers. As for the decals, I didn't use any waterslides, just the thin clear stickers provided with the kit. So my question is will the Tamiya TS-80 melts the panel lines, Gundam Markers, Sharpies used? It's the only option available to me as Mr. Super Clear and Mr. Top Coat along with Krylon and Testors aren't available locally in where in live. Any help from other experienced modelers are also greatly appreciated. Thanks!
I used it on an RG model several weeks ago over Gundam pen lining and the stickers provided in the kit...excellent result and no signs of it being brittle...use several very light coats and NOT one thick coat....also it helped to stiffen a couple of loose joints....most important - Wear a mask ! 😉
Excellent review!! A quick compare of rubbing and scratching the coat would be awesome... I have noticed some coatings get sticky after rubbing them and others scratch very easily, especially flat coats.
I haven't really noticed any stickiness on them after they'd been dry for a long while. Scratch wise, they can all the marred by some hard plastic contact but I would say the enamel/lacquer based coating are slightly better at resisting minor scuffs than the acrylic based coating.
Awesome video man! Do you know if the matte version of Krylon is any good? I'm building a MG zaku 2 and thought a matte finish would look good on it lol
Depends on what you are doing. If straight building, I'd just panel line on the bare plastic and top coat after. If a fully painted kit, I'd make sure there is a gloss coat on before panel lining and then top coat after again.
Do you have to paint a kit in order to top coat?? I have the mr super clear and want to top coat a kit, but not sure if I can just spray the kit as is.
have you done a version of this for the gloss coats. I would be very interested to know how to protect a clear gloss coat like Tamyia's X27 Clear Red over a metallic gold - to stop fingerprints and general wear and tear? I have used rattle can gloss varnishes and Vellajo Gloss but they either affect the gold subsurface or haze/crack the red top coat. Any suggestions?
Paul Frede I just walked out of a hobby store with ts-13 and for some reason watched this video out in the parking lot. Saw that this guy was using ts-80, so I went back in exchanged it. Now I see your comment xD
hey i recently purchased Tamiya TS-79 semi-gloss and TS-80 flat and realized the label on the cap says not to use over decals. i know the TS paints are synthetic lacquer. Should this be a concern? i plan on building a tank and i also purchased Tamiya TS-4 color spray. i was going to seal it with the TS-79, apply decals, weather it with odorless thinner and oils, and paint the tool handles in acrylic paints, then seal it with TS-80 flat. I think i can get by with sealing the decals with tamiya acrylic based gloss x-22 via brush. my concern now is the acrylic painted tool handles. will the TS-80 eat cured acrylic that's sat for 24 hours? Thank you if you can reply, you seem like you know your stuff.
As long as the acrylic has cured, I think it's extremely unlikely the TS-80 will affect it. While I've never had any issue with a top coat over a decal, it never hurts to test things out with a decal on a scrap part. This is what Tamiya suggests as well: www.tamiyausa.com/shop/spray-ts-plastics/ts-80-flat-clear/
@@DZMaven ok cool thank you, I'm still watching your video im paused at the 8 minute mark. but i see you applied decals to all the spoons and varnished over them. hopefully the second spoon withstood the test 🥳🤔. i was going to paint some plastic spoons anyways before i actually did anything to my brand new tamiya #35378 tank lol. its my first build and i don't want any headaches. me don"t own no an airbrush bredrin lol (in Jamaican accent)
Great information here, thanks for doing this. Just a question, I see (what I think is) some obvious bleeding in some of those but when you're describing it, you say the opposite. Does the actual spoons look different from how they look in the video? Confused.
The only actual bleeding was with the Testors dullcoat. The other showed very minor, if insignificant bleed. I know one spoon had some smudging from where I tried to clean the line up before the top coat. Is that what you mean?
so what am I seeing around 11:20 it looks like a good amount of bleeding but you say "its slight", so I was thinking that it showed differently on camera than when you were actually looking at it. Regardless, thanks for the information!
at 18:04 you say mr. topcoat is good at resisting enamel products. tamiya is advertised specifically as that...Tamiya spray paints are not affected by acrylic or enamel paints. Therefore, following the painting of the entire assembly, details can be added or picked out using enamel and/or acrylic paints. By combining three different paints, the decoration of plastic models will become simpler and more effective. copied and pasted. my concern wasn't going over it, it was going under it.
@@tydshiin5783 depends how much experience you have mine come perfect the way I want them too I have a high gloss finish under metallic paint flat is used for covering a lot mistakes some people can get away with some can’t
could anyone please tell me what's the point of coating? I recently bought two gunplas and look very good but I want to do panel lines and everyone says to coat them afterwords. so what's the point of coating?
1337 Reconz to preserve the details on the gunpla such as panel lines, paint, decals etc.. plus it gives it more finish depending on what you want it to look like. Less plastic-ish matte top coat or for metallic/painted parts that you want to use gloss top coat for it. I'm no expert for any vets out there who'd be so kind to provide further information, feel free to correct me.
Pretty much this. It's mainly used for protection of other paint layers/decals and to create an even finish. I consider it necessary for water slides and fully painted kits. For bare plastic, it's up to the builder if they want to go that extra step IMO.
@@DZMaven but.. isnt the normal procedure to (atleast when using tamiya panel liner) gloss coat, panel like, matte/flat coat? otherwise the panel liner can (apparently) crack the plastic.
Thank you for posting the video, it was ultimately beneficial and discussing thoroughly major issues I tend to find complicated as a biginner in Gunpla. But excuse me, I have two questions for your kind end to answer(if possible) : 1-Have you ever tried “Vallejo Varnish” in lieu of the topcoats presented in the video? 2-Have you applied the panel lining after or before spraying the topcoats? Thank you ...
I don’t know if I’ll get an answer but my husband is using a matte top coat from Krylon and it doesn’t seem to be doing anything? It’s still shiny? I wonder if he’s doing something wrong - anyone have tips?
Theres 2 top coats, mat ones and clear ones. Make sure its a mat one hes using! Hope this helps. Also very amazing you are helping your husband with his hobby lol
Only thing missing is dry times for these coats, idk if you mentioned it either but the amount of coats applied. Overall very helpful video to people trying to lean about top coats and their results
Really in-depth, glad you made this video. Recently purchased a can of Mr Hobby Flat Matt for $25(!) and I'm gonna put it over a kit which I'll be panel lining with Tamiya's Panel Line Accent Color. I'm a little scared I'm gonna screw this up and get that awful bleeding effect, is there a guaranteed method of avoiding it or do I just have to be careful?
4 years later and this video is still helping people out. thank you for this it was really informative.
5 now 👍
Up to 6!
Yeah make it 6!!
Make it 6
7 now boys ! shout out to rex !
This it the Gunpla content we need. Super helpful, especially when the supplies are expensive and you risk a kit if you dont like the results.
Mr. Super Clear's flat (esp the UV cut variant) is my go-to. LOVE how effective it mutes the colors and I love the slight chalky/dusty texture it gives.
Thank. you. I have the original Mr.Super Clear, not the UV one on hand and was hoping that I could use it to seal the figure. I did use it as a base before I started to paint. This is my first time painting a wargaming figure.It's a surprise birthday gift for my son. After spending many hours painting it, I didn't want to ruin it with a sealer. I so appreciate your comment. I have been researching sealers. One blog I read said not to use MSC but I have read others since that say they use it like you.
i just finished assembling my first gundam & i couldnt resist painting it thank you for the help!
Well put together, clear, articulate video that embodies the essence of the soul of TH-cam
Thanks
Very helpful! IMO It's easily the best among the few videos I found about this subject. I have to say the biggest THANK YOU 🙂
tamiya ts-80 user here! painted my gunpla with some details using mr.hobby acrylic paint and walmart folkart acrylic art paint, tamiya panel lining... most of the gunpla have no paint at all, decals are placed as well... ts-80 lacquer paint have no issue at all. best results! smooth and flat! make sure to dip can in hot water first for atleast 3mins and spray in a hot weather if you're outside.
A great explanation and comparison video which is exactly what I was looking for, with all the many types of topcoats available in the market this will make it easier to make an informed decision. Hats off to you!!
This was an incredibly informative video, thank you so much for posting it! This is something I've been researching for a while, and I'm happy to finally see a side by side comparison. The only thing I'd add is that from what I've heard, the Krylon topcoat is prone to yellowing. Maybe you could leave the spoons in the sun for a week and see how they're affected?
I certainly could. Thanks!
Krylon actually made a UV resistant version. Unfortunately I've only found the glossy version of this particular top coat.
Couldn't be stated better!
@blaze084 The UV-Resistant matte clear coat can be found here: krylon.com/products/uvresistant-clear-coating and you can find it at your local hobby/craft store. You can find it on Amazon here: amzn.com/B004O7HTDQ
Wow i just knew that top coat of mr hobby is actually acrylic. I will definitely try that one.
I wonder if 1 can is enough to do a small gunpla? (Building one with my son now)
Anyway thank you so much@@DZMaven for going through this experiment and sharing the video with us! Really appreciate this.
been looking for a video like this FOREVER! Thanks for uploading it!
You'll find most outdoor model railroaders use Krylon, 1- size of can, 2- size of our models. I use Krylon flat, UV resistant. FYI: sunlight will cause the lacquer to yellow, stands out over white. I use Krylon on plastic & wood (painted & bare). Krylon also has a version formulated for plastics.
Testors Dullcoat I apply with an airbrush, I don't care for the spray cans. Dullcoat is a lacquer, bottle (for airbrushing or brush on) has a pink label, spray can is silver & black under the Model Master line which Rust-Oleum discontinued. Not the same as the spray on enamel clears.
I use gloss clears for tuffness then spray on a flat or satin clear coat for a final look. FYI: the talc in the flat & satin clears actually softens the finish, glosses are tougher. This is much more noticeable in wood finishes.
Thank you so much for this! Dullcote is the dominate sealer in my hobby because it’s so easy to get, but I really don’t like it and this really helped me decide how these other sealers would work on painted model horses in comparison.
finally found a useful video on this topic. thanks so much for all your work to answer our questions
Mr super clear is easily the best I've uses imo. Otherwise I settle with krylon cause my nearby michaels never have dullcote in stock.
Know most of this but needed a refresher for ideas on some old early 2000s figures that I want to protect for my son who will be playing with them... as long as I don’t end up going crazy on detailing them.
Thanks for the thorough review. I've been using Krylon Crystal Clear gloss before panel lining and decals, but I've been hesitant to pick out a matte coat for finishing. Appreciate all the effort, helps take some of the guess work! I'll be checking out your other vids since this was so good!
Thank you for posting! I had a little issue on a reborn (zombie baby) doll repaint where it scratched easily...I included a link to your video in my description. THANK YOU for providing this informative video!
Glad I could help!
Great video! Thanks for the comparisons. I have always been wondering about the different top coats. Years and years ago, I had a horrible experience with the Testors. The semi-gloss top coat that I put on my non-grade 1:144 Nu Gundam came out super thick and was hard to control. When dried, the model had a very noticeable sickly yellow tint to it. It basically destroyed the look of the model. =( Since then, I avoided Testors like a plague and switched to using Tamiya clear flat. Most of the time, the results were great. I did noticed occasional bleeding from Gundam Marker lines on bare plastic though.
Thanks! That kind of echoes my experiences. I don't remember what I used exactly on my PG Wing Zero Custom but it did yellow over the years but it might had been a testors high-gloss clear.
Thanks for helping the future!
knowing nothing about gunpla this was a very informative video. wish more people did side by side comparisons. thanks!
This is a great video and so helpful! Thank you so much for this video.
Hi ! thx you video ! i have Mr.Hobby Super Clear !
#1 Tamiya
#2 Mr. Hobby Super Clear
#3 Economic Coat
#4 Mr. Hobby Top Coat
#5 Testors
Thank you for this! I'm new to this and this was very helpful!
I have been painting with Krylon for almost 20 years. I've never really used anything else. Love krylon. Tiny parts only need tiny sprays.
I haven't been painting that long lol but I'm going on 10 years, painted all my own cars with krylon and I've NEVER even tried anything else because I loved it so much. The colors are amazing and if you do all your prep work right the colors look like you just took it to a "professional" paint shop. 🤘🏻
To add my 2 cents, any can is potentially your worst enemy and your best friend.
It's also a huge factor the weather and temp when you spray, and also if you get a dud can.
Not willing to die in a ditch over it, but Testors have always given me great results, but it's also down to what you have become familiar with and your actual skill in apply thin, and I mean multiple thin coats.
Thanks for the video. Now I know which one should I take for topcoating.
What type of paint was used on spoon? Would like to see sprayed over acrylic, enamel and a lacquer like alclad
brilliant test report - thank you for sharing
the krylon smells good I think I killed my lungs but that smell was so good lol
As a warhammer painter I’ll lay my life down for a can of mr hobby topcoat flat
I knew a video I knew existed. Thanks just what I needed
Great content!!!
Very smart for thinking about panel_ines and topcoat affect on decals
Did you notice anything off with the decal on the Tamiya flat clear. Apparently it can mess up decals
This video was very helpful.
Fantastic and informative video, thank you!
Thanks for this. I was going to get Testors but seeing as in it doesn't work well with the Gundam Marker I'm going to pick up the Krylon which is easier to find anyway.
Glad it helped!
Which paint do u use on the spoons? Acrilic (tamiya) or Enamel??
Do you recommend Mr super Clean coat over tamiya paint.
Duo 20 I recommend alclad II for topcoats. Been getting some really great results.
Edit: Sorry, forgot to mention.. I’m not sure if it comes in a can, I use it though an airbrush.
Have you tried the Mr. Hobby Premium top coat flat? Does it have a big difference with the normal one?
Haven't tried it yet.
T A M A Y A
All day
Everyday
I just don't feel good about paying 14$ for 3oz of Tamiya when Krylon costs 4$ for a HUGE can of 15oz
@@Zeriel00 But you are a weeb like me, we only buy from Japan😉
@@statoilbensin2190 Haha you're talking to the guy who imported 100$ worth of Umaibo from Japan but even so I'm a broke bastard so if I find a cheaper alternative then I have to go for it lol
@fried tofu
KAGIYA
@@Zeriel00 BOSNY
This is a super helpful guide, thanks!
So I got a can of the Mr. Hobby - Mr Super Clear - Gloss waiting to be used, but I'm a tad nervous about trying it on a kit lol. I primarily use Gundam Markers (the fine tipped 3 - black, gray, and brown) for my panel lining since I'm a bit of a beginner at the moment. Never once painted a kit, but am considering giving it a try at some point. I heard that Lacquer based cans would cause some panel line running, but I notice here that your panel lining on the Mr. Hobby spoons seemed like they survived ok on the plastic areas, so it has put my mind at ease for trying it out on an unpainted HG. Thanks :D
Now another concern I had was, if I see any orange peel texture form after it dries, is it safe to try sanding it down somehow, and if so what grits do you recommend? I am worried about messing up the topcoat if I attempt to sand it after it's dried up lol.
Finally do you recommend any other safety tips for when you go to spray? I know it's important to do it outside and downwind with the fumes blowing away from you, but was there any other precautions I should take? A mask? some gloves of some kind? Do I set the piece down on a surface or hold it on up in a clamp or something?
Thanks again for the video.
Alligator clips on skewers work fine for holding parts while painting. Stick them into something like foam or cardboard to let them dry. I usually wear gloves to keep paint off my hands.
Wait, the tamiya panel line accent color is the most pro option? I used it on my first build ever and had no issues, wasn't that much expensive either, as far as I remember.
yo thanks for this super helpful video, i havent tried topcoat to any of my gunpla's yet. so far i've built just 4 of them. but definitely looking into it. might try to mr.hobby one. anyways i realize you play valkyria chronicles 4 and wow i thought itd be hard to find anyone who builds gunpla and also play this game lol. anyways i'm only 3/4 done on that game and i really need to go back and finish it, maybe then your play thrus can be helpful if i needed some help. anyways just thank you and dropping a message to say hi :)
So Top Coat N1 and Mr. Super Clear N2, sadly they are very expensive and shipping costs like half of the product. I will try opaque fixatives for watercolors and pastels which are cheaper.
still very useful video, I don't know if the black lines are made with 3 different types of black ink (marker, ink or other)
Which is the best im torn between tamiya and mr top coat
Thanks for this - i was looking for some reviews of alternatives of Testors as it is out of stock often in the uk !!
No big loss.There are better products that are compatible.
Nicely done video, and looks like a good attempt at scientific testing. For info sake, I've been reading that Krylon potentially changed, and tends to be more foggy now days. I'd test it before using it on a model, just in case, possible they applied it wrong, or maybe it did change.
Tami is very offended by your pronunciation.
DZMaven, can you recommend a safety mask to wear when using these top coats? Will regular paint respirators from the home improvement store do? It's my understanding that Mr. Hobby topcoats are more toxic than the others. In this case, would a half-mask heavy duty respirator be needed? Any info is greatly appreciated.
Can I ask for your opinion on one thing tho? I'm planning to topcoat an unpainted kit that is panel lined with Sakura Micron pens and some other fine point drawing pens. I painted some small details throughout the kit using Gundam Markers, Sharpies and Artline paint markers. As for the decals, I didn't use any waterslides, just the thin clear stickers provided with the kit.
So my question is will the Tamiya TS-80 melts the panel lines, Gundam Markers, Sharpies used? It's the only option available to me as Mr. Super Clear and Mr. Top Coat along with Krylon and Testors aren't available locally in where in live.
Any help from other experienced modelers are also greatly appreciated. Thanks!
I have no answers for the sharpies and microns. Gundam markers should be fine. I'd test it out on a scrap and see what happens.
Hello sir. Is it ok to apply Mr Super Clear (Lacquer based) on unpainted parts? Will the parts become brittle?
I used it on an RG model several weeks ago over Gundam pen lining and the stickers provided in the kit...excellent result and no signs of it being brittle...use several very light coats and NOT one thick coat....also it helped to stiffen a couple of loose joints....most important - Wear a mask ! 😉
Is Bosny Clear/Flat Clear Spray Paint can also be an Alternative?
So the top coat can mess up panels line on a unpainted kit. Right?
Which one would you go with, Maven?
Great video!
I don't understand, all of your samples having bleeding panel lines. How are you supposed to top coat your lines without them bleeding?
They aren't all bleeding. Some of them were already smudgy before the matte coat. Look at the before and after pictures at the end.
Excellent review!! A quick compare of rubbing and scratching the coat would be awesome... I have noticed some coatings get sticky after rubbing them and others scratch very easily, especially flat coats.
I haven't really noticed any stickiness on them after they'd been dry for a long while. Scratch wise, they can all the marred by some hard plastic contact but I would say the enamel/lacquer based coating are slightly better at resisting minor scuffs than the acrylic based coating.
Sweet! thanks! :)
hi, will it led to bleeding if i use the accent panel line and nit the markers?
I believe it's "Tah-mee-yah" not "tah-mai-yah"
Only the Japanese really know.
White people prefer to say it "Tah-MAI-ya". Asian people prefer "Tah-MEE-ya"
@@sorestarbing3978 Doesn't help, defencive white dude
Aaron Zichao CAO defensive*
You say Tah-mai-ya, I say Tah-mee-ya.
Very good video, though old video. My ass should've watched this first before I bought a top coat paint lmaoooo.
DZMaven I forgot to ask how many hrs or days did you cure the base paint and liners before applying the top coats?
Think it was over 24 hours. That's usually enough for enamel paint.
Phew. I got terrible results with Testors and was really worried that all top coats would be that bad.
I think I've always problems with the testors sprays, which I why I rarely use them anymore.
Awesome video man! Do you know if the matte version of Krylon is any good? I'm building a MG zaku 2 and thought a matte finish would look good on it lol
I used the one in video on a MG GNX I had and it worked just fine. If it's the same formula it should be fine but test it if unsure.
@@DZMaven thanks for the response! I guess I'll try it hopefilly I don't ruin Char's mobile suit lol
When panel lining, do you apply the top coat first, panel line, then apply another top coat
Depends on what you are doing. If straight building, I'd just panel line on the bare plastic and top coat after. If a fully painted kit, I'd make sure there is a gloss coat on before panel lining and then top coat after again.
DZMaven awesome thanks! Another question, I’m using Tamiya panel line and I was wondering if the tamiya panel line thinner will damage the plastic?
@@jonathanmaher4916 am late but usually it shouldn't unless there's an excess, where it'll crack the plastic
But avoidable with a gloss top coat
Great vid
How long is the drying time for the tamiya lacquer clear top coat?
I'd say about 4 hours.
Im done paying 12-16$ for tiny cans of tamiya I'm gonna pick a huge can of Krylon for 3$
Do you have to paint a kit in order to top coat?? I have the mr super clear and want to top coat a kit, but not sure if I can just spray the kit as is.
You can just use top coat as is without paint.
have you done a version of this for the gloss coats. I would be very interested to know how to protect a clear gloss coat like Tamyia's X27 Clear Red over a metallic gold - to stop fingerprints and general wear and tear?
I have used rattle can gloss varnishes and Vellajo Gloss but they either affect the gold subsurface or haze/crack the red top coat. Any suggestions?
Hey there, i want to know should i apply decal or the topcoat first ? Im currently building my first mg astray. Hope you could reply ASAP, thx.
It's preferred to do a gloss coat first, decals, then top coat
@@DZMaven thx.
I just test sprayed some Rustoleum gloss clear and it melted decals.
Didn't try rustoleum but good to know.
I test sprayed some Tamiya TS13 and it slightly melted the decals so now idk what to do. I guess I need to order some Mr Hobby.
Paul Frede I just walked out of a hobby store with ts-13 and for some reason watched this video out in the parking lot. Saw that this guy was using ts-80, so I went back in exchanged it. Now I see your comment xD
hey i recently purchased Tamiya TS-79 semi-gloss and TS-80 flat and realized the label on the cap says not to use over decals. i know the TS paints are synthetic lacquer. Should this be a concern? i plan on building a tank and i also purchased Tamiya TS-4 color spray. i was going to seal it with the TS-79, apply decals, weather it with odorless thinner and oils, and paint the tool handles in acrylic paints, then seal it with TS-80 flat. I think i can get by with sealing the decals with tamiya acrylic based gloss x-22 via brush. my concern now is the acrylic painted tool handles. will the TS-80 eat cured acrylic that's sat for 24 hours? Thank you if you can reply, you seem like you know your stuff.
As long as the acrylic has cured, I think it's extremely unlikely the TS-80 will affect it.
While I've never had any issue with a top coat over a decal, it never hurts to test things out with a decal on a scrap part. This is what Tamiya suggests as well: www.tamiyausa.com/shop/spray-ts-plastics/ts-80-flat-clear/
@@DZMaven ok cool thank you, I'm still watching your video im paused at the 8 minute mark. but i see you applied decals to all the spoons and varnished over them. hopefully the second spoon withstood the test 🥳🤔. i was going to paint some plastic spoons anyways before i actually did anything to my brand new tamiya #35378 tank lol. its my first build and i don't want any headaches. me don"t own no an airbrush bredrin lol (in Jamaican accent)
@@DZMaven i guess it's fine. i will still test it and the acrylic paint on spoons after they've been primed.
Great information here, thanks for doing this. Just a question, I see (what I think is) some obvious bleeding in some of those but when you're describing it, you say the opposite. Does the actual spoons look different from how they look in the video? Confused.
The only actual bleeding was with the Testors dullcoat. The other showed very minor, if insignificant bleed. I know one spoon had some smudging from where I tried to clean the line up before the top coat. Is that what you mean?
so what am I seeing around 11:20 it looks like a good amount of bleeding but you say "its slight", so I was thinking that it showed differently on camera than when you were actually looking at it. Regardless, thanks for the information!
I using Mr color uv topcoat I like to know how many days do I need wait to cure because I using metallic paint
can you put the acrylic top coat on top of acrylics paint? figured it would ruin the paint under it but would also be good for enamel panel lining
As long as the paint is dry it should be fine.
at 18:04 you say mr. topcoat is good at resisting enamel products. tamiya is advertised specifically as that...Tamiya spray paints are not affected by acrylic or enamel paints. Therefore, following the painting of the entire assembly, details can be added or picked out using enamel and/or acrylic paints. By combining three different paints, the decoration of plastic models will become simpler and more effective. copied and pasted. my concern wasn't going over it, it was going under it.
do you know any topcoats that work with gundam markers?
The paint pens should be fine with most any topcoat. For ink pens, just stay away from the Testors stuff.
What if you're painting your model with enamel paint and you want to finish it with a clear topcoat?
Enamel is pretty durable so most any top coat will be fine.
did you panel line before or after spraying?
He did it before spray
Exactly what I was thinking lol.
@@bigbodyg35 you wouldn't think about it if you actually watched the video.
Always paint then top coat then add panel lines/decals then do a light finish of top coat it works for me.
Top coat with Gloss first, after that use flat
@@tydshiin5783 you don’t have to use flat at all it’s your choice for finish I love my model kits to have a polish look.
@@CaptZeon Polish can look amazing, but it can also be absolutely horrible if your model has any like imperfections on the surface
@@tydshiin5783 depends how much experience you have mine come perfect the way I want them too I have a high gloss finish under metallic paint flat is used for covering a lot mistakes some people can get away with some can’t
Do the mr. Hobby topcoat make plastic brittle?
Not that I'm aware. The blue cans of Mr Hobby are acrylic based so they shouldn't affect the plastic.
The problem with top coat is when the parts rub against each other, the coating chips..
Yeah. It's why I generally only use them for painted kits that I'm not going to move around much.
tamaya?
Nice vid sir, keep it up :)
Could U ask does thus prevent stickers from peeling or preserve the stickers
A top coat will help preserve the stickers. Don't know if it'll help stop peeling.
Also does this turn gunpla plastic or itself yellowish for the Mr hobby and Mr clear
@@alphaphgames8266 It doesn't as far as I know.
could anyone please tell me what's the point of coating? I recently bought two gunplas and look very good but I want to do panel lines and everyone says to coat them afterwords. so what's the point of coating?
1337 Reconz to preserve the details on the gunpla such as panel lines, paint, decals etc.. plus it gives it more finish depending on what you want it to look like. Less plastic-ish matte top coat or for metallic/painted parts that you want to use gloss top coat for it. I'm no expert for any vets out there who'd be so kind to provide further information, feel free to correct me.
Pretty much this. It's mainly used for protection of other paint layers/decals and to create an even finish. I consider it necessary for water slides and fully painted kits. For bare plastic, it's up to the builder if they want to go that extra step IMO.
arent you supposed to panel line after topcoat?
These are matte coats so you don't panel line on them.
@@DZMaven but.. isnt the normal procedure to (atleast when using tamiya panel liner) gloss coat, panel like, matte/flat coat? otherwise the panel liner can (apparently) crack the plastic.
how about bosny top coat? is it good substitute for krylon?
Haven't used it before.
i dunno. kinda looks like he didnt wait long enough before top coating those panel lines. I'd kinda like to see the timer on how long he waited.
I usually have a rough 24 hour period between things when I'm spraying.
If the marker panel lining bleeds is it still possible to clean it up?
Probably not.
DZMaven's Gunpla Reviews thanks for the reply!
So after I spray the flat clear can I spray it with gloss clear so it has a shiny finish?
You can but it may take a second coat to look smooth. It's much easier to go from gloss to flat than the other way around.
DZMaven so can I just skip the clear flat and go straight to gloss?
@@devildawg4947 I would do that.
Thank you for posting the video, it was ultimately beneficial and discussing thoroughly major issues I tend to find complicated as a biginner in Gunpla.
But excuse me, I have two questions for your kind end to answer(if possible) :
1-Have you ever tried “Vallejo Varnish” in lieu of the topcoats presented in the video?
2-Have you applied the panel lining after or before spraying the topcoats?
Thank you ...
Haven't tried any Vallejo products
Panel lining was done before the coat to test how it would affect it.
What I have learned is Gundam Markers are boss
Once you go tamiya panel liner you never go back
@@massv2910 I go back and forth.
I don’t know if I’ll get an answer but my husband is using a matte top coat from Krylon and it doesn’t seem to be doing anything? It’s still shiny? I wonder if he’s doing something wrong - anyone have tips?
Theres 2 top coats, mat ones and clear ones. Make sure its a mat one hes using! Hope this helps. Also very amazing you are helping your husband with his hobby lol
Only thing missing is dry times for these coats, idk if you mentioned it either but the amount of coats applied.
Overall very helpful video to people trying to lean about top coats and their results
Can you use Testors top coat on acrylics?
Shouldn't be a problem
Is that tamiya colour code ts80?
Yep, flat clear TS-80
Really in-depth, glad you made this video. Recently purchased a can of Mr Hobby Flat Matt for $25(!) and I'm gonna put it over a kit which I'll be panel lining with Tamiya's Panel Line Accent Color. I'm a little scared I'm gonna screw this up and get that awful bleeding effect, is there a guaranteed method of avoiding it or do I just have to be careful?
You should be fine with the panel line color. The bleeding really only happens with markers and with Testor's top coat especially.
Ah, alright. I'll try and be careful and hopefully avoid it. Thanks for the heads-up.
do you heat your cans?
Only if it may be cold out but I usually avoid those days for outdoor painting anyway.