I gotta be honest, my limited experience with Alaskan Milling, I never thought of the tapered setup like that for siding! I love it man! Super cool project! Chainsaw milling is a lot of work but super cool to have as an option. Will be watching to see the progress Wooly!
I think an adjustable shoe on the power head side, and a 3/4 to 1/4 thickness would be the zone to achieve! Also don’t cut from just one side of the log, so when you cut down the left side of the log turn around and cut back on the opposite side. This will help keep one side of each cut flat on the top surface of the log, & yield 2 planks with two cuts without having to roll the log! Remember , when cutting lumber, your kerf of the saw toot needs to be added to the thickness of the lumber desired, so if you are cutting 5/4 thickness it will be 6/4 or 1 1/2 inches thickness on the saw, then it will run through a surface planer to smooth each side of the plank down to 1 inch thickness or shall I say the ruff cut 5/4
Isn't there any chains that are used for cutting along the grain? It would be easier for the chainsaw... I know that there are such hand saws but I don't know about chainsaw chains....
I gotta be honest, my limited experience with Alaskan Milling, I never thought of the tapered setup like that for siding! I love it man! Super cool project! Chainsaw milling is a lot of work but super cool to have as an option. Will be watching to see the progress Wooly!
It's so addictive, changes the way you look at trees
@@WoolysWorld hahahaha. Yes indeed!
Lol
What a great project, I'm looking forward to watching this progress....
Cheers buddy
Really cool! I need to get on my milling also! Keep it going! Right on👌
Cheers buddy, very addictive
Man, I hope you have a hand saw or something because it is pain to take the saw on and off the mill.
It's getting that way
@@WoolysWorld you have other saws, are they all down right now?
@@oakiewoodsman all running atm, just didnt have them with me
@@WoolysWorld gotcha!
@oakiewoodsman nice
I think an adjustable shoe on the power head side, and a 3/4 to 1/4 thickness would be the zone to achieve! Also don’t cut from just one side of the log, so when you cut down the left side of the log turn around and cut back on the opposite side. This will help keep one side of each cut flat on the top surface of the log, & yield 2 planks with two cuts without having to roll the log!
Remember , when cutting lumber, your kerf of the saw toot needs to be added to the thickness of the lumber desired, so if you are cutting 5/4 thickness it will be 6/4 or 1 1/2 inches thickness on the saw, then it will run through a surface planer to smooth each side of the plank down to 1 inch thickness or shall I say the ruff cut 5/4
Cheers pat
The thing about these Alaskan mills is you lose a lot because the kerf is so large. Fine in a place where you have a lot of large trees.
Hopefully soon
Isn't there any chains that are used for cutting along the grain? It would be easier for the chainsaw... I know that there are such hand saws but I don't know about chainsaw chains....
This is a ripping Chain
Designed for cutting this way
you could always just set yer saw up level at 1", and attach a piece of 1/2" wood down one edge to give you your bevel.
That would work
Stick it in old engine oil or it will rot in no time
Good idea