I live in upstate NY. Every logger goes through Game of Logging teaching. Every tree is cut with a bore cut. We bore cut because hardwood saw logs are so high $$ that you dont want to risk the log splitting by just doing a back cut. Plus a lot of hardwoods will barberchair if you dont bore cut and will rip your face off. Just an FYI from back east. After watching your videos i started doing the 'Humboldt front cut" which a lot of east coast loggers will say is a big no no. !! Helps get logs down through the thick woods!
I used to run the biggest Stihls in my younger years. Lately I've become enamored with battery operated saws. I have over a dozen; including an EGO CSX5000 with a 24" bar. I made my first plunge cut a couple of months ago when I cut a tongue and groove notch in a 60ft choke cherry tree. I had watched numerous TH-cam videos on the subject before my foray into that technique. I've never cut anything big like you do. I'm in Wisconsin; and the biggest I ever ran into was a steady diet of 30-40 inch oak trees. I suppose everyone has their favorite saw; and mine was a little 90cc Stihl 051AV with a 30" bar. A comparatively quiet saw; among the other ones I had.
Cool. thanks for explaining. We were also taught over here to lock that top arm straight to resist it and stand outside of the line of kick back. I knew a logger here who caught one on the side of his head and shoulder which made quite a mess of him for life. It's no joke.
Always good info, thank you. After sharpening a new chain a few times, I ran into a plunge-cut problem. The saw cut fine otherwise, but chattered like crazy - while attempting plunge cuts. The rakers/depth gauges were correct depth, but the raker profile was filed down flat! Once the rakers were filed to a rounded profile at the front, bore cuts were smooth again. Just got a 28" bar for a Stihl MS400, with 3 different chains. I'm anticipating different cutting / boring performances, from green link safety chain, yellow link chain, and skip-tooth chain.
I went to full skip on my 400’s. The chain speed is fast so skips are no problem for bore cutting or any cutting. Recently I started using Oregon 72EXJ and I see no difference in performance but may dull a little sooner than Stihl RSF but the $20 price difference per loop sold me.
Thanks for the tip, I'd made the connection that rakers could greatly effect bore cutting, but had not yet thought of profile. I dont bore cut much, but when I do its usually in some tricky, small diameter, side leaner type situation... a saw that's chattering bad is the last thing you want to deal with.
Excellent tutorial, I love to bore cut. by far the best way to fall leaners without a barber chair. I find top bar entry good for going under the tension side of logs just above the ground to keep the bar out of the dirt, practice this one very carefully till you get the hang of it.
Good job Mr Wilson , by far the clearest, most informative and concise bore cut explanation I have seen on the Tube, not a bad effort from Chevy Chase's stunt double👍
Hoostun, we have consensus. Plunge cuts, bore cuts, same thing here in Blighty. Same logic, too. But if you chop your 'rakers' down, your bore cuts get much, much harder. Bucking: what cowboys' horses do. Talking back to yer old man. It would get you a clip 'round the ear* when I was a lad. * Now illegal in Scotland and Wales.
Cheers for that, it was a bit of a wake up call for me, I've seen so many people on you tube just "plunge cut" that tree, I assumed I knew what they were doing, the brain was disengaged, I had not SEEN what they were doing - and i probably would have just tried to go straight in if i had decided i wanted to do that sort of a cut - no thought about how to avoid a kick back if i had decided to try it!
In some cases these people might have known what they were doing, but they were experienced enough to start the plunge with very little angle. Wilson was, for demonstration purposes, exaggerating a bit. That kickback isn’t an occasional consequence, you go in on the top of the bar tip, it will kickback.
You can also start a plunge cut from the top of the nose, but you need a greater attack angle to direct the kickback in to the wood and not out of it, because as soon as the tip starts to get pushed out of the wood, it will hit the worst part of the nose and you get a real bad kickback. This technique also works better with short bars because you have better leverage over the tip. I would not recommend using it with any more than 20" of bar and I would not recommend it to inexperienced users.
Thanks any advise please Iv started useing the bore cut for coppicing on bigger stuff in the woods and found my stihls are chatting badly when bore cutting the only thing i can think thats making it do this is the fileing system i use has a flat file that takes the rakers down with sharpning the chain is it that the file is taking the rakers down to much ? Thats coursing it to chatter/judder or is it that the file files a flat spot on the raker that needs to be rounded thanks for any advice
You've probably already addressed this in previous videos; but I've only been subscribed for about six months... WHAT model and bar length is that beastly powerful Stihl 'light saber' we always see you with?
Genius strategy?! Hahaha😂 a double digit IQ could’ve come up with this “genius strategy.” We’re not exactly formulating a quantum theory of gravitation here, nor proving the Riemann Hypothesis. But it probably takes plenty of skill to make those plunge cuts square so the tree falls through.
Thanks any advise please Iv started useing the bore cut for coppicing on bigger stuff in the woods and found my stihls are chatting badly when bore cutting the only thing i can think thats making it do this is the fileing system i use has a flat file that takes the rakers down with sharpning the chain is it that the file is taking the rakers down to much ? Thats coursing it to chatter/judder or is it that the file files a flat spot on the raker that needs to be rounded thanks for any advice
Seen 500+ chainsaw videos im sure by now and this is the first time someones properly explained this haha thanks for potentially saving my life.
Nothing like some quality tip plunging advice in the morning!
Indeed a bit of plunging is the best way to deal with morning wood.
1:52 Did you not hear the man?
@@karlrovey Everyone understands it was a thinly veiled plea for said comments. Just doing my part to help humanity.
@@JohnComeOnMan I guess my tongue-in-cheek comment didn't translate to writing very well.
@@karlrovey Seemed likely, but never can be sure, so I replied kind of generically. It's all good.
Crystal clear. You are a great teacher.
ah, the saw holder. the most important reason for a plunge cut.
The best explanation of plunge cuts ever ! Thanks !
I live in upstate NY. Every logger goes through Game of Logging teaching. Every tree is cut with a bore cut. We bore cut because hardwood saw logs are so high $$ that you dont want to risk the log splitting by just doing a back cut. Plus a lot of hardwoods will barberchair if you dont bore cut and will rip your face off. Just an FYI from back east. After watching your videos i started doing the 'Humboldt front cut" which a lot of east coast loggers will say is a big no no. !! Helps get logs down through the thick woods!
LOL......I literally didn't even think about inappropriate until you brought it up, I was too busy paying attn I guess. Good stuff.
Great video! Appreciate your teachings
Thank you for sharing your knowledge with plunge cutting that's safe
...and it makes a good holder for your saw. 😀
Thanks!
Now I know how to safely do a plunge cut, thank you.
Thanks for the explanation of the tip cut. Stay Hydrated and Have a Safe Day
STHIL SHOULD PAY YOU FOR THIS VIDEO! GREAT INSTRUCTION!!!
I used to run the biggest Stihls in my younger years. Lately I've become enamored with battery operated saws. I have over a dozen; including an EGO CSX5000 with a 24" bar.
I made my first plunge cut a couple of months ago when I cut a tongue and groove notch in a 60ft choke cherry tree.
I had watched numerous TH-cam videos on the subject before my foray into that technique.
I've never cut anything big like you do. I'm in Wisconsin; and the biggest I ever ran into was a steady diet of 30-40 inch oak trees.
I suppose everyone has their favorite saw; and mine was a little 90cc Stihl 051AV with a 30" bar. A comparatively quiet saw; among the other ones I had.
How are the electric saws doing? Is there one or more you would definitely recommend?
Cool. thanks for explaining. We were also taught over here to lock that top arm straight to resist it and stand outside of the line of kick back. I knew a logger here who caught one on the side of his head and shoulder which made quite a mess of him for life. It's no joke.
I made swedish torches that way. My small tophandle doesnt kickback but my bigger saw does, even a 1/4 of the bar in. Guess I have to practice more
Always good info, thank you.
After sharpening a new chain a few times, I ran into a plunge-cut problem. The saw cut fine otherwise, but chattered like crazy - while attempting plunge cuts. The rakers/depth gauges were correct depth, but the raker profile was filed down flat!
Once the rakers were filed to a rounded profile at the front, bore cuts were smooth again.
Just got a 28" bar for a Stihl MS400, with 3 different chains.
I'm anticipating different cutting / boring performances, from green link safety chain, yellow link chain, and skip-tooth chain.
I went to full skip on my 400’s. The chain speed is fast so skips are no problem for bore cutting or any cutting. Recently I started using Oregon 72EXJ and I see no difference in performance but may dull a little sooner than Stihl RSF but the $20 price difference per loop sold me.
Thanks for the tip, I'd made the connection that rakers could greatly effect bore cutting, but had not yet thought of profile. I dont bore cut much, but when I do its usually in some tricky, small diameter, side leaner type situation... a saw that's chattering bad is the last thing you want to deal with.
Thank you. Safety is the most important thing when handling/running a chain saw. IF you like your face the way it is, anyway.
I wish I knew this years ago. I learned the hard way through trial and error
Same here.
No shortage of huge trees in that woods. Great description, especially the grip. I tell myself not to 'get giggy' with it.
Thank you for that, makes sense when you show it so well !
Excellent tutorial, I love to bore cut. by far the best way to fall leaners without a barber chair. I find top bar entry good for going under the tension side of logs just above the ground to keep the bar out of the dirt, practice this one very carefully till you get the hang of it.
Thank you! A great demonstration of how to cut safely.
Thanks for a safety Video on the Bore Cut. Good solid grip,good stance,and full throttle. I appreciate your concern for the lives of others.
Smell will tell you if it's rotten as well. Hold your left elbow locked while useing a chainsaw.
Good job Mr Wilson , by far the clearest, most informative and concise bore cut explanation I have seen on the Tube, not a bad effort from Chevy Chase's stunt double👍
There are a whole bunch of things I would like to say about this video. But I won’t. Cool video. Have a nice day Wilson.
A very good instructional video on how to perform a plunge cut, thanks for posting!
Thanks, really great information! Saved me or someone else from getting hurt. Always something to be learned from someone else.
Great show man I'm a big fan, no messing, you plunge right in.
Great video and Im going to resist making comments but i have to say that is the best laugh I have had in a while.
I like the way you make things very clear.Thanks
Thank you for this explanation on plunge cuts
Nice, informative video. Great idea to follow up with real life examples for those who’ve never done a bore cut.
Very useful and informative, thank you very much!
Good informative video on Plunge cutting
Thanks for sharing your lengthy experience.
Good advice.
Well done.
What inappropriate comments? Excellent explanation, never done it because it always looked dangerous, Maybe not so much done correctly.
Very helpful instruction.
Hoostun, we have consensus. Plunge cuts, bore cuts, same thing here in Blighty. Same logic, too. But if you chop your 'rakers' down, your bore cuts get much, much harder.
Bucking: what cowboys' horses do. Talking back to yer old man. It would get you a clip 'round the ear* when I was a lad.
* Now illegal in Scotland and Wales.
Cheers for that, it was a bit of a wake up call for me, I've seen so many people on you tube just "plunge cut" that tree, I assumed I knew what they were doing, the brain was disengaged, I had not SEEN what they were doing - and i probably would have just tried to go straight in if i had decided i wanted to do that sort of a cut - no thought about how to avoid a kick back if i had decided to try it!
In some cases these people might have known what they were doing, but they were experienced enough to start the plunge with very little angle.
Wilson was, for demonstration purposes, exaggerating a bit.
That kickback isn’t an occasional consequence, you go in on the top of the bar tip, it will kickback.
You can also start a plunge cut from the top of the nose, but you need a greater attack angle to direct the kickback in to the wood and not out of it, because as soon as the tip starts to get pushed out of the wood, it will hit the worst part of the nose and you get a real bad kickback. This technique also works better with short bars because you have better leverage over the tip. I would not recommend using it with any more than 20" of bar and I would not recommend it to inexperienced users.
This video will help people for sure. Very good, thank you. 🙂
Excellent demonstration…thanks!
Thank you brother
Thank you. Incredibly clear video.
Well done video. Thanks. Can you give an example of when you would use a plunge cut with the saw parallel to the tree stem?
Hey Mr Wilson another great video. Are the Saturday night round table discussions over?
Still too scared to try, but having a saw holder is quite handy. :)
"Just the tip, mind"
And only for a minute
I wonder if the square grind you use makes it easier or safer to plunge cut. Great video.
Fantastic advice.
When cutting on a hillside stand on the up hill side.
Excellent instructional video: Well done! Do you recommend any specific face cut when using a bore cut? Just wondering if one may work better.
I remember when I used my old lady to hold my saw just like that😂👍
Good explanation!
Thanks.
Is this a follow up on how to buck dirty logs
Great video, very helpful.
Thanks any advise please Iv started useing the bore cut for coppicing on bigger stuff in the woods and found my stihls are chatting badly when bore cutting the only thing i can think thats making it do this is the fileing system i use has a flat file that takes the rakers down with sharpning the chain is it that the file is taking the rakers down to much ? Thats coursing it to chatter/judder or is it that the file files a flat spot on the raker that needs to be rounded thanks for any advice
Thanks I learned something new
Thank you!
Great video! Thank you! 🙏🏽
Great safety tip Thanks
Great video! Thanks.
Ya done good, real good!
Great work. Thank you!
You've probably already addressed this in previous videos; but I've only been subscribed for about six months...
WHAT model and bar length is that beastly powerful Stihl 'light saber' we always see you with?
Good review!
As with skiing, “keep your tips up.”
Thanks!!
Good tip.
I'd love a saw holder like that. Now where can I find a 100 foot tree....
Great video thanks
Just the tip, fellas🇺🇸
Thanks Wilson.....!
And… it makes a good holder for the saw….😂
You plunged, right in there. That's what i call plunging into the deep end .✅️😥🤣😇🌏
Rakes don't work on the top downward motion so the cutters grab too much wood.
I thought this is TH-cam, not the other kind of video hosting site
💯
Too many, That's what she said 😅
you may need extra lube on the tip just before the plunge!
0:49 is it just me or did this look a little CGI?
Don't touch anything with your tip fellas. 😂
Genius strategy?! Hahaha😂 a double digit IQ could’ve come up with this “genius strategy.” We’re not exactly formulating a quantum theory of gravitation here, nor proving the Riemann Hypothesis. But it probably takes plenty of skill to make those plunge cuts square so the tree falls through.
But why do Americans almost always use these ridiculously long chain bars? The longer the bar is, the greater the risk for a back-kick!
Thanks any advise please Iv started useing the bore cut for coppicing on bigger stuff in the woods and found my stihls are chatting badly when bore cutting the only thing i can think thats making it do this is the fileing system i use has a flat file that takes the rakers down with sharpning the chain is it that the file is taking the rakers down to much ? Thats coursing it to chatter/judder or is it that the file files a flat spot on the raker that needs to be rounded thanks for any advice