Thank you for this video, going to pick up some zip ties before I start this job on the weekend… doesn’t look to hard but still like to look at videos before I jump on a job in the garage
Kevin, The Zip-tie trick worked really well. I did all 4 Bilsteins on my 05 Z51 C6 on a Sunday afternoon. Took it to the alignment shop on Monday. Drive great again. Thanks for that tip!
Thanks for mentioning the notch in the rear plates. I happened to notice that when reinstalling the shocks. It took a bit of searching to figure out if it mattered (it does) and which direction it should be facing (front). For the ~6mm square bit on the top of the front shocks: mine were corroded, PB Blaster, heat, air impact, electric impact, and just about everything else did not let me remove the nut. I wound up buying a Lisle "shock absorber removal tool" (about $8.00 at O'Reilly) which is a square socket. Put that on the end of the shock, insert wrench through the side from the wheel well and on to the nut, and everything worked. Great video! (I didn't want to slice up the OEM shocks in case I needed them later, which I did.)
I did my ZR1 a couple months ago. Mag ride shocks deleted (bought a Tech 2) and went with Johnny O’Connell shocks. I also had to replace my lowering bolts two were trashed no rubber left and the third one was failing. Little more involved lowering and lifting the suspension. Keep up the good job and great videos.
great video, thank you!. Just a few tips, if you don't want to cut the shock boot to hold with vice grips you can use a Lisle shock mount tool and 15mm box wrench. I HIGHLY recommend a ratcheting one. Doable with non-ratcheting, but time consuming. Also, 24mm socket for the rear lower shock bolts. I'm doing Delrin bushings for the CAs and AMT camber bolt kit / UCA stud kit at the same time, no need to compress and hold with zip ties if you remove the 4x UCA bolts on each side.
Of course I have something 'special'. In the middle of replacing mine and the first shock (driver rear) has a harness attached. I assume for 'track mode'? I wonder if this will cause a code to trip. Having known this, I might have put stock back on. We'll see... '08 LT3 package I believe. It has a magnetic ride control. I left it unconnected. We'll see. Read where I will need to use a Tech2 diagnostic tool to disable the F45/55 option that manages the ride performance. It does ride much better. Three of the four shocks were shot.
Best shock install video on uTube! Thanks! Would you have any comments on choosing between the Bilstein B8 and the B6 for a 2010 C6 Base? Nevermind....figured it out. B8 is a short B6.
Did you go with some bilsteins on your 2010 base and if so how do you like and did you change your sway bars? I'm trying to figure out what to do on my 10..
@@teddydavid2816 Yes, went B6 and really beefy swaybars front and back. Major upgrade to the handling yet not harsh at all. Might do coilovers someday if I keep it long enough.
Quick question when you replaced then after that did you put the sensors back on top of the nut of the front shocks ? & if so I did that and it shows “shocks inoperative” on the dash what causes that ?
The fasteners should be tightened until the bushing expands (bulges) to the same outside diameter of the metal washer. About 10ft/bls max. Here is a link to some instructions. gabriel.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/01/Gabriel-HD-Tech-Bulletin-Shock-Installation.pdf
Thank you for this video, going to pick up some zip ties before I start this job on the weekend… doesn’t look to hard but still like to look at videos before I jump on a job in the garage
Rear shock lower bolt is 145 Nm, 107 ft. lb.
Kevin, The Zip-tie trick worked really well. I did all 4 Bilsteins on my 05 Z51 C6 on a Sunday afternoon. Took it to the alignment shop on Monday. Drive great again. Thanks for that tip!
Happy the trick helped
New shocks don’t require a front end alignment 🤦♂️
Thanks for mentioning the notch in the rear plates. I happened to notice that when reinstalling the shocks. It took a bit of searching to figure out if it mattered (it does) and which direction it should be facing (front). For the ~6mm square bit on the top of the front shocks: mine were corroded, PB Blaster, heat, air impact, electric impact, and just about everything else did not let me remove the nut. I wound up buying a Lisle "shock absorber removal tool" (about $8.00 at O'Reilly) which is a square socket. Put that on the end of the shock, insert wrench through the side from the wheel well and on to the nut, and everything worked. Great video! (I didn't want to slice up the OEM shocks in case I needed them later, which I did.)
I did my ZR1 a couple months ago. Mag ride shocks deleted (bought a Tech 2) and went with Johnny O’Connell shocks. I also had to replace my lowering bolts two were trashed no rubber left and the third one was failing. Little more involved lowering and lifting the suspension. Keep up the good job and great videos.
Thanks for the comment and feedback love hearing what other people do with their cars.
great video, thank you!. Just a few tips, if you don't want to cut the shock boot to hold with vice grips you can use a Lisle shock mount tool and 15mm box wrench. I HIGHLY recommend a ratcheting one. Doable with non-ratcheting, but time consuming. Also, 24mm socket for the rear lower shock bolts.
I'm doing Delrin bushings for the CAs and AMT camber bolt kit / UCA stud kit at the same time, no need to compress and hold with zip ties if you remove the 4x UCA bolts on each side.
Your video was GREAT, and so informative,,step by step instructions so will done. My hat goes off to you Sir!!!
Thanks hope it helped
Of course I have something 'special'. In the middle of replacing mine and the first shock (driver rear) has a harness attached. I assume for 'track mode'? I wonder if this will cause a code to trip. Having known this, I might have put stock back on. We'll see...
'08 LT3 package I believe. It has a magnetic ride control. I left it unconnected. We'll see.
Read where I will need to use a Tech2 diagnostic tool to disable the F45/55 option that manages the ride performance.
It does ride much better. Three of the four shocks were shot.
Simple instructions, very clear. Thanks!
Kevin they are pronounced Bill Steen.
Thank you for this instructive video ! 😎👍
Kevin, love the video absolutely great quality. Question for you. What torque wrench did you use for the top of the shock? Do you have a link for it?
Ties…pretty cool thanks
Best shock install video on uTube! Thanks!
Would you have any comments on choosing between the Bilstein B8 and the B6 for a 2010 C6 Base?
Nevermind....figured it out. B8 is a short B6.
Did you go with some bilsteins on your 2010 base and if so how do you like and did you change your sway bars? I'm trying to figure out what to do on my 10..
@@teddydavid2816 Yes, went B6 and really beefy swaybars front and back. Major upgrade to the handling yet not harsh at all.
Might do coilovers someday if I keep it long enough.
@@robmccance hey awesome thank you for the response and feedback brotha!!
@@teddydavid2816 hells yeah
Excellent and very detailed and easy to follow!
Thank you SO much!
I was dreading to do mine. But, I definitely feel a LOT more confident now!
great video! I am installing four of these tomorrow...you left on the little plastic washer on the shock I noticed? why are those necessary?
As far as I know on Bilstein Shocks you leave them on from everything I read.
Great video Kevin.where did you get your tourque wrench?
Canadian Tire Canada.
Kevin, what is your overall verdict on the Bilsteins vs. OEM? They are on the short list for my C6 upgrades.
Personally, I like them they do give a little bit more of a stiff a ride.
I noticed you left the plastic retainer on the Bilstein shocks, at least on the rears, but I thought you were supposed to remove those?
Great vid, thanks alot!
Do you need to empty the coolant in the Resivour?
I don’t need to.
Great video. Helps a lot. Thank you
Quick question when you replaced then after that did you put the sensors back on top of the nut of the front shocks ? & if so I did that and it shows “shocks inoperative” on the dash what causes that ?
I don’t have the magnetic ride control shocks. My car has the Z51 sports package so no sensors on the shocks.
What are torque specs where rubber is?
The fasteners should be tightened until the bushing expands (bulges) to the same outside diameter of the metal washer. About 10ft/bls max. Here is a link to some instructions.
gabriel.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/01/Gabriel-HD-Tech-Bulletin-Shock-Installation.pdf
Thanx
Welcome
Bill steen. Not ballast een.😮
No shit . How do you compress the shock!!