Damn dude, there is so much useful info here for so many jobs other than this. Thank you so much for going to the trouble of filming and narrating. Seriously, massive props.
Matt, thanks a lot for this very educational vid. I cant wait to see the end result. I do have some questions if you dont mind. Why some sealant on some screws and not all ? Your improvised engine ground is made of copper wire. Is that going to hold even with vibration ? I see you use tensionner on many screws. I know its important for the head screws. Is if mendatory on all screws ? Why 2 new screws for the timing gears ? is that as critical as the ones for the heads ? Cant we use the same ? On my (unfinished yet) 2005 Pacifica I was able to remove the two head covers without taking the coils out. Could I have break something ? I'm having a hard time taking out the power steering compressor. Cant figure out where the holding screws are. Any idea on this ?
Excellent Videos Matt. One question, When you put the camshaft sprocket on, how did you ensure TDC was actually where the sprocket is put; is the shaft keyed? Thanks
Gary Gevaert Damn this was so long ago I forget the details. The sprockets can only go on the camshafts one way and cannot rotate around the shaft after you put them on. However, by design, they DO rotate just a little bit in each direction for fine adjustment.
MattsMotorz Much appreciated, I'll be finding out soon. Going to be pulling drivers head off a 2006 charger 3.5 as, while installing the new timing belt, the drivers side cam went a little too far to the left and abruptly slammed 1/4 of the way around and stopped with a dull clunk. I'm thinking the setup was under tension and I likely damaged some valves. Thoughts?
MattsMotorz Perfect, I did one when I changed the spark plugs a week ago so I'll have a good baseline. Thanks and keep up the good work on the video's. Cheers
hello my 1998 cavalier will run smooth but after a while when it heats up it will start sputtin oil form the valve cover hole on top ,how could I fix that or avoid it happening?
Are you referring to where you pour the oil in when you do an oil change? My guess is that the engine may be sludged up (from lack of oil changes in its lifetime) and the oil cannot flow down to the bottom end as quickly as it is getting pumped up, filling up the cavity under the valve cover. If this is the case, I would remove the valve cover and inspect / clean out the holes that drain the oil to the bottom.
My Chrysler 300m sometimes has a smelly fuel smell coming from the engine bay. After the engine is at optimal temperature and taking it out for a short 20 minute drive, I see a little bit of white smoke coming from the right exhaust manifold at the point where it connects to the catalytic converter. The OBD-ll also has a P0058 code which after googling it means that a heater control circuit in the oxygen sensor (bank 2, sensor 2; after catalytic) has higher voltage than expected. Does anyone have any idea as to what may cause the error code and the fuel smell? I suspect my car has a crack in the manifold similar to what is shown at 6:15. I don't have the tools to remove the heat shield and inspect for any cracks. I just want to confirm that if maybe there's a leak in the manifold, that's what is causing the smell and sensor error.
Clamp it in a vice and then put a stiff pin through it to hold it. Careful though, you need to compress it VERY SLOWLY!! It should take you a fill 5 minutes at least to compress it all the way. Any quicker than that and you are likely to damage it. I would recommend just replacing it, or at the very least, only compressing it once.
OK well the on the cover of the head gasket there's a hole it covers the valves ,through that hole when the car reaches a certain temperature it will.sputter oil
Is there a cap you can unscrew? That isn't the head gasket, the head gasket is much lower. A picture would really help here. Find me on facebook (just search for MattsMotorz) and send me a PM with a picture.
![Cylinder Heads Replacement-Part 5 FINALE [2000 Chrysler 300M]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/EVyCQJUEJ5Q/mqdefault.jpg)
![Cylinder Heads Replacement-Part 5 FINALE [2000 Chrysler 300M]](/img/tr.png)
![Cylinder Heads Replacement-Part 1 [2000 Chrysler 300M]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/KZbynA41M48/mqdefault.jpg)
![Cylinder Heads Replacement-Part 3 [2000 Chrysler 300M]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/FMJAaTSM-Yg/mqdefault.jpg)
![Cylinder Heads Replacement-Part 2 [2000 Chrysler 300M]](/img/n.gif)
Damn dude, there is so much useful info here for so many jobs other than this. Thank you so much for going to the trouble of filming and narrating. Seriously, massive props.
+MrJamesonStyles Hey thanks! Means a lot!
Matt, thanks a lot for this very educational vid. I cant wait to see the end result. I do have some questions if you dont mind.
Why some sealant on some screws and not all ?
Your improvised engine ground is made of copper wire. Is that going to hold even with vibration ?
I see you use tensionner on many screws. I know its important for the head screws. Is if mendatory on all screws ?
Why 2 new screws for the timing gears ? is that as critical as the ones for the heads ? Cant we use the same ?
On my (unfinished yet) 2005 Pacifica I was able to remove the two head covers without taking the coils out. Could I have break something ?
I'm having a hard time taking out the power steering compressor. Cant figure out where the holding screws are. Any idea on this ?
I see you put the valve cover but did not mention if you installed new gaskets . Or are they reusable?
Excellent Videos Matt. One question, When you put the camshaft sprocket on, how did you ensure TDC was actually where the sprocket is put; is the shaft keyed?
Thanks
Gary Gevaert Damn this was so long ago I forget the details. The sprockets can only go on the camshafts one way and cannot rotate around the shaft after you put them on. However, by design, they DO rotate just a little bit in each direction for fine adjustment.
MattsMotorz Much appreciated, I'll be finding out soon. Going to be pulling drivers head off a 2006 charger 3.5 as, while installing the new timing belt, the drivers side cam went a little too far to the left and abruptly slammed 1/4 of the way around and stopped with a dull clunk. I'm thinking the setup was under tension and I likely damaged some valves. Thoughts?
First thing I would do is do a leak down test to ensure the valves are indeed damaged. If they are damaged, there will be a decent amount of leakage.
MattsMotorz Perfect, I did one when I changed the spark plugs a week ago so I'll have a good baseline. Thanks and keep up the good work on the video's. Cheers
hello my 1998 cavalier will run smooth but after a while when it heats up it will start sputtin oil form the valve cover hole on top ,how could I fix that or avoid it happening?
Are you referring to where you pour the oil in when you do an oil change? My guess is that the engine may be sludged up (from lack of oil changes in its lifetime) and the oil cannot flow down to the bottom end as quickly as it is getting pumped up, filling up the cavity under the valve cover. If this is the case, I would remove the valve cover and inspect / clean out the holes that drain the oil to the bottom.
My Chrysler 300m sometimes has a smelly fuel smell coming from the engine bay. After the engine is at optimal temperature and taking it out for a short 20 minute drive, I see a little bit of white smoke coming from the right exhaust manifold at the point where it connects to the catalytic converter.
The OBD-ll also has a P0058 code which after googling it means that a heater control circuit in the oxygen sensor (bank 2, sensor 2; after catalytic) has higher voltage than expected.
Does anyone have any idea as to what may cause the error code and the fuel smell?
I suspect my car has a crack in the manifold similar to what is shown at 6:15. I don't have the tools to remove the heat shield and inspect for any cracks.
I just want to confirm that if maybe there's a leak in the manifold, that's what is causing the smell and sensor error.
What’s the paper or book your using?
how to compress the hydraulic tensioner?
Clamp it in a vice and then put a stiff pin through it to hold it. Careful though, you need to compress it VERY SLOWLY!! It should take you a fill 5 minutes at least to compress it all the way. Any quicker than that and you are likely to damage it. I would recommend just replacing it, or at the very least, only compressing it once.
Nice job.
wow....good job
Hey thanks!
OK well the on the cover of the head gasket there's a hole it covers the valves ,through that hole when the car reaches a certain temperature it will.sputter oil
Is there a cap you can unscrew? That isn't the head gasket, the head gasket is much lower. A picture would really help here. Find me on facebook (just search for MattsMotorz) and send me a PM with a picture.
a lot of work...
just sent you the images of the hole I'm talking about