For the urn, the oil has different thermal properties due to its' viscosity, so is probably creating hotspots over where the heater is as it's not thermally cycling as quickly as water would, tripping the thermal cutout, could probably use a digital thermostat instead to control the heating element... :)
yep it's the wayyy diffrent thermal capacity water at 4xxx KJ/liter vers. oil at [way less] KJ/L. the oil can't take that much heat away from the heatingelement and thus creating a hot spot. oil doesn't boil at 100°C so the safety temperature cutoff takes that as a dry run and trips. you could change it to a fryer one at 150 or so and keep some of the safety intact.
I still reckon that a design based on the old Wison Wallflame boilers may be a possible route. One motor drives a fan incorporating a spinning disc onto which the waste oil would drip under gravity. The oil is flung centrifugally out to the boiler walls and ignited there and I suspect that well preheated oil will be required to reduce the viscosity and improve the flashpoint. An oil pre heater pipe in the flame area would perhaps further reduce the demand for electricity. Perhaps starting with paraffin and switching over after a few minutes might make it easier.
Awesome. Good to see it working. I can't remember what size nozzle you said you were using, but I found that switching to a smaller nozzle allowed me to get a much finer mist and have it burn cleaner.... This was just burning in a tube in a vice, but it may work in this as well.... not that it needs to work any better 🤷♂
I was just about to say the same thing, they get the face on for destroying their bottles and rightly so altho the customer has paid for it so I cannot see the problem my self.
Maybe add a temperature sensor that has a 3 minute on and if drops below a certain value it cuts power to the solenoid killing the oil pump when your not around. Unless your only using it while in the shop.
glow plug and sparker helped me most trying to make one from an old torpedo heater. if you put a cone in there half way down the tube and can still get it to light, you wont hear a roar, just the compressed air getting out, so is quieter
Try looking at a old fashioned blow torch that uses paraffin the same principle, it runs a tube through the flame to heat the paraffin before going to the nozzle, with regard to the heater tripping you will find it is a water heater so the water circulates around where old oil won't circulate
My nozzle keeps clogging up after i shut it down, i suspect the oil cokes up in the nozzle and blocks it, all it takes is a blow gun to force it back down the pipe to the oil tank, just a bit of a pain in the hole, I might need to add a blower fan to cool the nozzle down like you have
Technology connections dose a good explanation i think its why American don't use kettles and the pressure controle on the cut off ..can not find it at mo.
Have you worked out your fuel consumption or safe running temp yet? Mine is a gravity fed one that has one gas tank over another very like yours. Getting about 1li per hr @ 250 degrees c in the upper tank and a toasty workshop.
Run a small stainless steel tube around the hotest part of the burn tube. To pre heat the heavy oil close to vapor point. Then out though the nozzle. Others use a different shape tube ' cone shape With so many grades and contaminated oils. Finding the sweet spot will next to impossible. This is a great series. 👍🏻
I wondered the same thing. The old paraffin primus stoves used to have the feed pipe routed through the flame to preheat the fuel before it reached the burner.
Parrafin is really refined and clean. Heating waste oil to close to the vapour point risks all the gunk and crap coming out of suspension causing it to clog. Used diesel oil is full of carbon particles.
@@Tom89678 If he just use clean oil maybe, but used engine oil needs high heated oil or very high pressure to get the very fine mist for efficient burn.
So many variables David, what is magical is how you managed to calm your bits.
This guy is great at what he does and how he explains it thank you
The intro HELLO is still one of my favorite things 🙂
Cool stuff! Seems to be working pretty well too.
I'd say Cool but I actually mean Hot, impressive, nice to hear your thought process as to dealing with problems.
Have Always loved your end music loL!
For the urn, the oil has different thermal properties due to its' viscosity, so is probably creating hotspots over where the heater is as it's not thermally cycling as quickly as water would, tripping the thermal cutout, could probably use a digital thermostat instead to control the heating element... :)
Ohhh interesting. That makes sense.
It also doesn't boil at 100C so can rise to a temperature beyond the tripping point.
The element thermostat is still working as it should. I've 'adjusted' the other thermal cutout which I'm assuming is the boiling dry safety.
yep it's the wayyy diffrent thermal capacity water at 4xxx KJ/liter vers. oil at [way less] KJ/L.
the oil can't take that much heat away from the heatingelement and thus creating a hot spot. oil doesn't boil at 100°C so the safety temperature cutoff takes that as a dry run and trips.
you could change it to a fryer one at 150 or so and keep some of the safety intact.
I still reckon that a design based on the old Wison Wallflame boilers may be a possible route. One motor drives a fan incorporating a spinning disc onto which the waste oil would drip under gravity. The oil is flung centrifugally out to the boiler walls and ignited there and I suspect that well preheated oil will be required to reduce the viscosity and improve the flashpoint.
An oil pre heater pipe in the flame area would perhaps further reduce the demand for electricity. Perhaps starting with paraffin and switching over after a few minutes might make it easier.
Awesome. Good to see it working. I can't remember what size nozzle you said you were using, but I found that switching to a smaller nozzle allowed me to get a much finer mist and have it burn cleaner.... This was just burning in a tube in a vice, but it may work in this as well.... not that it needs to work any better 🤷♂
Mr Calor wants his gas cannister back😂
I was just about to say the same thing, they get the face on for destroying their bottles and rightly so altho the customer has paid for it so I cannot see the problem my self.
Not this one. Had become end of life and was drilled so it could not be filled again. I have given it new life.
Perhaps a brake rotor with vanes around the flame? Should create some mass and also cause a ventury effect?
you proooooobably won't be interested but I canny help think a turbo and your Syphon nozzle and some pipework would make a fun experiment 😂
Maybe add a temperature sensor that has a 3 minute on and if drops below a certain value it cuts power to the solenoid killing the oil pump when your not around. Unless your only using it while in the shop.
glow plug and sparker helped me most trying to make one from an old torpedo heater. if you put a cone in there half way down the tube and can still get it to light, you wont hear a roar, just the compressed air getting out, so is quieter
Try looking at a old fashioned blow torch that uses paraffin the same principle, it runs a tube through the flame to heat the paraffin before going to the nozzle, with regard to the heater tripping you will find it is a water heater so the water circulates around where old oil won't circulate
Thought about that too. But any residue/contaminants would be left behind inside the pipework as it evaporates.
My nozzle keeps clogging up after i shut it down, i suspect the oil cokes up in the nozzle and blocks it, all it takes is a blow gun to force it back down the pipe to the oil tank, just a bit of a pain in the hole,
I might need to add a blower fan to cool the nozzle down like you have
Maybe some sort of hot surface ignitor would work better for lighting the oil
I like it, but I think you could call it a sludge carburetor instead.
Technology connections dose a good explanation i think its why American don't use kettles and the pressure controle on the cut off ..can not find it at mo.
I think I've actually watched that one. :)
Options: Heat retaining bricks, Top mounted in / out coil to heat water from water butt to jet wash.
Have you worked out your fuel consumption or safe running temp yet? Mine is a gravity fed one that has one gas tank over another very like yours. Getting about 1li per hr @ 250 degrees c in the upper tank and a toasty workshop.
Not yet. But I did leave it running today taking the workshop from 5ºC to 18ºC in about 30-45 minutes.
Get an Arduino Nano, program it to control the heater? It can accommodate everything you want to control the heater.
The second step would be my stumbling block.
@@DavidMcLuckieI can help with that, with any electronics too, what do you need?
Hellooooooooooo!
Cheap as balls 🤣
Run a small stainless steel tube around the hotest part of the burn tube. To pre heat the heavy oil close to vapor point. Then out though the nozzle.
Others use a different shape tube ' cone shape
With so many grades and contaminated oils. Finding the sweet spot will next to impossible. This is a great series. 👍🏻
I wondered the same thing. The old paraffin primus stoves used to have the feed pipe routed through the flame to preheat the fuel before it reached the burner.
Parrafin is really refined and clean.
Heating waste oil to close to the vapour point risks all the gunk and crap coming out of suspension causing it to clog. Used diesel oil is full of carbon particles.
@@Tom89678
If he just use clean oil maybe, but used engine oil needs high heated oil or very high pressure to get the very fine mist for efficient burn.
Personally, I find it really annoying when the oil goes "woooooh, woooooh" as it syphons the oil.