You have to be careful when jacking on the pinch weld flange. Some cars have weak rocker panels and will bend upward when you jack on them. Another factor to consider is older cars where the rockers are rusted, they can totally cave in.
Wow that's a pretty slick homemade invention. Even with a unibody front wheel drive car, there are more than enough suitable areas to put a jack underneath it. I think it's sad that some people don't know that and end up tearing up the rocker panels on their car. Hats off to the guy who made this though.
If you have ever jacked up a car from the sill panel jacking point you then have to look for a suitable point to place the jack stand. Finding a suitable place for a jack stand can be tricky on some modern cars that have full length under body plastic trays. I think this is a good idea.
The entire weight of the car is now on those 2 bolts. Unlike a jack stand where the pressure actually holds the clamps tighter. What’s the weight rating on those bolts? I Wouldn’t trust my life under that car.
420CEO First those are pins not bolts,that is what they are designed for. Second you won't trust this which has 4 points of contact, but you will trust a jack stand with 1.
He bought those "pins" with threads js, at the dollar store, why wouldnt you trust them? Those welds though. Im not a welder so I know when someone else is not a welder.
I've been doing automotive work for over 30 years. I like the concept but It looks to unstable from side to side. Maybe if the bases were wider and they had some triangle side bracing welded on. Also current Jack stands only require one lever or bolt where your's requires two. Also the way it's lifted with the round pedestal in the middle shows that it won't come down even as it was leaning to one side when the jack was removed, I would just remove that part. I think it could work with some extra work, but with the current design I wouldn't crawl under that vehicle based on my experience in automotive repairs and using all kinds of stands. Thanks for sharing though. Best Wishes n Blessings. Keith Noneya
It's junk; pointless junk. It starts with the rig already under the car which means the car was somehow elevated previously so we're seeing step 2. Just not worth the bother. I have a general rule for YT videos to avoid anything with Genius, or Amazing, or Incredible, etc., in the title but unfortunately I let the thumbnail suck me in on this waste.
Enough nay sayers,.....I am making a ride on mower workstand and your idea for lifting it off the ground is exactly what I needed. I will incorporate some of what you did, thanks for sharing this!
Good idea but one thing I would've done differently is cut up some jack stands for the supports. That way they would automatically lock when raising it.
Allen McKinney that is actually a great idea, but normally that would require a lot of ground clearance to begin with. try and watch the video fram safe jacks and you'll notice that the vertical bars are mounted at the end.
Thanks for the idea, can anyone share a dseign for the new improvement that should be stronger and accident proof. So a crocodile jack is also essential in puttin up this support? Thank you very much. Henry Ruiz. Thè Philippines.
The bolts are in "shear", no weight rating. However, a grade8 automotive bolt of 3/8" diameter (dia. of section with no threads ) would be sufficient for a three or four thousand pound vehicle. I was more concerned about the foot (base) of the jackstand- I prefer at least three legs on mine.
Another key to making it safer is to take away the sharp points of holes once they have been drilled out like I learned in aircraft back in the day. Deburr/chamfer the holes on front with palm drill using slow rpms and on the inside of holes use a reversible countersink set sold from machinist site for deburring the inside holes. Then I noticed he drilled his holes from the side. I would have drilled holes on the front instead and locked out with steel pins from auto parts local store or local hardware store and get the kind with holes on the front of steel pin so I can put on safety hitch pin clips and good to go. Also on the top of stand you can buy parts separately from renjack stand for the pinch weld accessory or you can attach jackpuck to the top with modifications. Hope that info helps. Taking away sharp points on drill out is critical as they taught me in aircraft to prevent cracking later on by those sharp points. It's easy to deburr the outside holes but the inside takes a reversible countersink set. That tool set comes in handy.
I like it very much!, these doubters obviously haven't done much jacking! The main problem it solves is there's only one place you should support the car! so you can't put the axle stands in the correct place...because that's where you put the jack. The car I have just bought has had the stiffening ridge folded flat by either garages or home mechanics using axle stands in the wrong place!
Personally I never Jack up my car or support it by the jacking points, I always use suspension mount areas like where your axle is bolted to the car by large bolts etc because that is very solid, jacking points are OK but with a lot of use they can start to bend and it also takes the paint/underseal off them causing rust to start.
If I may make a suggestion Make the feet bigger . Make the whole thing a little wider and a little taller . bigger bolts because all the weight is relying on those bolts. Cut a small channel on top bracket for the angle iron to sit in so you're not relying on the welds
Before suggesting wider, understand trusses. That may very well introduce new problems. Purchase something that is certified and made by a responsible company. Live long and prosper.
Cool idea, Im not sure the V channel is needed as the lip of the pannel is not a lifting point. The lifting point is in behind the lip on most cars. I believe without the V wedge or channel this will work well behind the lip and do the job well.
Youd be surprised; bolts have and insanely high Straight Sheer strength. But yes.. Terrible welding. I still don't understand why he kept switching to stick, then back to mig, then stick welding again. Maybe to try and get a better bead? Ha
I have a couple of pto driven implements that use sheer pins. Bolts are in no way near the sheer strength of a pin. A sheer pin( which is made to sheer in the event of a lockup) has more sheer strength than a grade 2 bolt. This is risky.
Wayne: I don't see any pinholes or flux inclusions, and as long as he achieved full penetration all the way around, does the surface appearance matter that much to the strength of the joint?
Nice Idea but I would have made the feet cover more area and what is the hardest of those bolts they need to be unbreakable for the weight you use them for.
A car never has only one "support point" . You should really jack a unibody car up by where the subframe bolts on , and if you have to then put the jack stand on reinforced rocker area ..
Using setscrews instead of hardened steel pins to support the car's weight seems like a risk. Useful if space is restricted, where a jack and normal axle stand would conflict, but otherwise a lot of work for little benefit. Just the angle piece on top of the jack might be a good idea to spread the load when needing to raise under the sills. Remove jack saddle, and create a 'Y' from the angle and the pin.
Yes pins would be a better idea. Or grade 8 bolts. Fortunately looks like the car weighs less then 2 tons. Also should have tacked the the tubing together to drill the holes, or drilled them separately.
Joe HamRadioGuy. All he had to do was weld a 6 inch long piece of angle iron to the top of a Wal-Mart jack stand and had the same thing except safer and cheaper
Decent design, but rethink the bolts. Thick shear pins would be a better choice, and make the top part interchangeable for different car models. Some have different kinds of contact points.
Nice job, but I believe it has limited application. To rotate tires on my family cars, I just went to Harbor freight and bought a second one ton floor jack for $29. I now have two floor jacks.That way I can jack up both wheels on the same side of the car and rotate them. Also, you can get a set of jackstands that are more heavy duty for $29
The big problem with this is that the weakest link is the bolts.... so the whole car will potentially be supported on two bolts. Should probably use thicker metal to support the vehicle.
OK somewhat clever, but the foot print is too small. TOO TIPPY. Also, since tou got the fabricobbling stuff, make a tool to actuate the valve on your jack.
Awesome idea but this won’t work on lowered cars. Need a locking latch attached to the jack. Also, the bolts should be rated for a safety factor of 3x especially since you only have a .120 wall x2 = .250 so you have the weight of the car with a shear concentration of .250 per two small bolts. I’d use some hardened pins instead (hence tow hitch) due to a lower shear strength on a bolt. Or a large hardened bolt. I like the invention tho!
Just think of the cost of supplies too. They won't sell you a 2" piece of round stock. Have to buy 8'. Just like the rest of the materials. A better idea. Two jack stands. Use a piece of metal to connect the two tops of the jacks. etc.. you get the idea. Just make 2 stands one...
You should not lift by the pinch weld. The rocker around the pinch weld is reinforced and meant to take the load. You will eventually bend the pinch weld.
So this gives you one jack point rather than multiple. Anyone that knows what they’re doing won’t floor jack the weak spot of the pinch weld. They will hit the tranny mount, tow hook, frame, A arm bushing mount, etc...
lostintime86 you can't use 2 Jack stands, they are too high. Maybe if you have a 4x4 truck or suv that would work but not a car. German cars have to be jacked by the pinch welds.
well, I do agree that a jackstand with a wide base will allow more horizontal force, but if you think of his video as inspiration rather than then final design - I think its a good idea (but I also know that there is a commercial alternative safe-jack) but its helpfull to see others making stuff as inspiration.
Christian Andersen who are you trying to kid? This serves no other point other that an ugly jackstand! 99% of the stuff this person makes is a copy of an original or "HIS" version. These aren't " hacks", hacked up? Yeah but not hacks!
Wood blocks will also work in this application. Also the load was not spread across the welded channel that touched the car because the leg height cannot be adjusted correctly to spread the load. Just use jack stands or blocks. But I did like how it lifted the car for sure.
I use a round log from our firewood pile about 18 inches in diameter, with 4 by 1 packers if needed, it can’t tip over or drop down. Also spreads the pressure on your chassis. Safe as houses. Nice welding job though.
Hello, very good idea but you are welding in the wrong direction when you use MIG. You must weld in the opposite direction to which you weld with rutile electrode.
Never, EVER wear gloves when you're using a drill press. If the glove gets caught in the drill bit, well you can imagine what would happen to your hand!
Maybe if you do not have a jack. Just buy a set of ramps if your only doing oil changes or just need the car off the ground more or if your not taking off tyres. Are their cheap too ,I have both and a hoist
Two tons of truck that are supported by 2 bolts? What happens if the bolts shear off after repeated use? Jack stands are not that expensive. Plus not everyone has all that metal cutting equipment and welding equipment?
Nice idea for unibody cars with very limited jacking area - most new cars only offer 5-8" of lifting area in the front and back - making jacking up the car and then placing jack stands very problematic - the jack is in the way... Although the execution of this design could be improved in several areas, the concept is actually quite practical for modern unibody cars. I would not use this on a full frame vehicle where jack or axle stands are easily applied...
Ok Dr Hacker I'll give credit for thinking out side the "box" on this one but someone else has already been there done that. Please buy pins NOW!!!! I don't want hear that you were crushed under a car with them bolts......................
I stand by my endorsement of the idea. People with low cars and haters can look elsewhere. Not sure where you get any facts on what height most cars are.
Ok based on the comments I thought, this was going to be a total waste of my time. But you may be on to something, I kind of like it. Good on Ya, way to think outside the box
Because he doesn't know how to mig weld properly. LOL he was making a mess with the mig. Watching the welding skills alone.. let alone the poor design, I would never get under a vehicle with that stand.
The upper corners 90 ° should have reinforcements with triangles, to eliminate rupture by possible oscillatory movements left and right. Do not forget that a car weighs 1.5 - 2 tons ...
I find i get better results with the mig using gasless wire if i take the nozzle off as you can see the weld a lot better. The nozzle is only there to shield the gas when using gas.
i think its great... however, if its only two feet holding it, its not too save... you need four legs to hold it together.. i mean if it swings sideways i just do not feel too safe....
mark stone I understand your point. I suppose the vid would be directed to persons more like myself who have the necessary equipment or access to it, along with some knowledge on how to make some minor improvements to address the safety issues. I'm not a professional welder or fabricator of any sorts. Just fortunate to have some handy tools. Also, vids like these gives ideas on how to make use of scrap metal, which I also have alot of.
If you don't know how to make and/or use a jack stand, you should not try using the tools the sponsor ( or a "friend" sold you.! You could seriously injure yourself.
I did check it wasnt an April 1 version From the shape of the top piece he seems to think the whole seam is OK as a jacking point, didnt even place it in the designed spot
I need something like thisz. To be able to jack the entire front end up at once doesnt leave me any damn room to put jack stands in to support botg sides at same time so i got to do one side at a time.. if i had somethibg to go around the jack and lock as the jack rises than would cut 15 mins off trying to put my shit in the air..
cool concept with added stability. you could also put a pivot point on top with metal casters on bottom to rotate out of way or use as a car dolly to move whole car or part . Using leverage locks on side to lock casters down and spring mechanism to retract. Cool simple invention either way .
mechanical engineer would give this guy a B plus just needs work most of the complainers whiners I'm guessing 30 year olds and living at home . this takes effort alot of you don't have a clue.
Not inservice Just because you put time and effort into a project doesn’t make it good or safe. You would trust your life under 2 ton car that’s being held up by two puny screws? Pins designed to handle sheer strength would at least make this safe. It’s still not a good idea when you can buy jack stands for dirt cheap.
The idea is good, need stronger or bigger bolts though. I would also make the whole "lifting section" longer to get more clearance/space under the car if I made these.
Change those 2 bolts to hardened pins. A heavier vehicle may shear those right off because that thin-walled tubing will act like a shear. Other than that they look cool.
VERY BAD IDEA. The welds and bolts should be the least of anyone's worries. What's to prevent the stand from flipping over while it's being lifted via the little pin in the middle? All it takes is a little rock in front of the jack's wheel and the stand will start to flip and drop the car. He should've removed the jack's saddle so the stand's pin could slide in and be secure.
If you spent half as much time preparing your steel for welding as you do grinding the ugly welds, you would have better welds and not need to grind them to clean up the ugly welds. Taking a sanding disk to the steel before welding makes a huge difference.
Great idea! I'm looking for something like that for years but coudn't find a supplier. After watching your video I will build my own version. I will however modify your design to better prevent tipping.
What is it with so called mechanics on TH-cam? They want to convince you NOT to use anti-seize on spark plugs but convince you that jacking and/or supporting a car on the pinch welds is OK. That's allot of fab work to do something so wrong. Genius? I think not.
X-Man. Please see the jacking instructions included in your owner's manual or with your spare tire. Supporting by the pinchwelds is safe and correct for most vehicles.
@ Some Guy- I own 2 GM vehicles with Unibody chassis. Both have specific jack points that are NOT on pinch welds. Some cars did engineer specific points on pinch welds as jack points, that is true. The ones I've seen are on Toyota's and the are much more robust than the typical pinch welds at the specific designated jack point. I think you are making a leap to say "most vehicles" but I don't know for sure EITHER.
X-Man. It's not much of a leap. Unless there's a frame or some other obviously better jacking point, I've lifted many cars by their pinch welds. If they're good enough for the factory assembly line when the car is being made, they're good enough for me and yes, I'm sure. Once I jacked up a rusty old Honda by the pinchweld, which is the factory recommended jacking point for those, and the rocker panel collapsed with a crunch and the car fell and shifted about eight inches. That was as much fun as a barrel of monkeys, I assure you.
@Some Guy- Your to paragraphs sound like you are arguing with yourself. " good enough for the factory assembly line when the car is being made, they're good enough for me and yes, I'm sure." In the factory they may support the major assemblies by the pinch welds but likely never just one and the assembly being move around weighs allot less than the whole car. Still sure? Don't be absurd, you're comparing apples and oranges. Then you go on to tell your real world story of how a pinch weld collapsed on you. Here's some basic engineering: If you are jacking a car by a pinch weld, even a factory designated jack point that is a more robust pinch weld, you need more area than just the round head of a floor jack or those ridiculous Hockey Puck size rubber cushions. An adapter could be fabbed up that is about a foot long with a grove in it to accommodate the pinch weld so the weight is spread out over a larger area. Cover the pinch weld contact area with some rubber from cut up inner tube or equivalent. You still need a good spot for a jack stand if you are going underneath. Good luck with all that. I have also deformed a designate jack point on a uni-body vehicle (wasn't a pinch weld), with a floor jack. Remember, the factory wants you to take your car to a dealer to be worked on where they use 4 point lifts. People rarely have flats anymore, some new cars don't even come with spares now. The factory has determined you will likely be well beyond warranty before you even get a flat, let alone collapse a pinch weld jacking the car . In other words, it's likely not their problem if you collapse a pinch weld.
What grade are those bolts?? I’d much rather use high strength pins but a nifty setup nonetheless.
One may use 8.8, 10.9 or 12.9 grade bolts, however ordinary M12 bolts may serve the purpose.
You have to be careful when jacking on the pinch weld flange. Some cars have weak rocker panels and will bend upward when you jack on them. Another factor to consider is older cars where the rockers are rusted, they can totally cave in.
Wow that's a pretty slick homemade invention. Even with a unibody front wheel drive car, there are more than enough suitable areas to put a jack underneath it. I think it's sad that some people don't know that and end up tearing up the rocker panels on their car. Hats off to the guy who made this though.
If you have ever jacked up a car from the sill panel jacking point you then have to look for a suitable point to place the jack stand. Finding a suitable place for a jack stand can be tricky on some modern cars that have full length under body plastic trays.
I think this is a good idea.
The entire weight of the car is now on those 2 bolts. Unlike a jack stand where the pressure actually holds the clamps tighter. What’s the weight rating on those bolts? I Wouldn’t trust my life under that car.
420CEO First those are pins not bolts,that is what they are designed for. Second you won't trust this which has 4 points of contact, but you will trust a jack stand with 1.
Pins Huh??? 1:30
Those bolts aren't even grade 8. No way would I use that thing.
steve gibson II you don't know what you're talking about
He bought those "pins" with threads js, at the dollar store, why wouldnt you trust them? Those welds though. Im not a welder so I know when someone else is not a welder.
I've been doing automotive work for over 30 years. I like the concept but It looks to unstable from side to side. Maybe if the bases were wider and they had some triangle side bracing welded on. Also current Jack stands only require one lever or bolt where your's requires two. Also the way it's lifted with the round pedestal in the middle shows that it won't come down even as it was leaning to one side when the jack was removed, I would just remove that part. I think it could work with some extra work, but with the current design I wouldn't crawl under that vehicle based on my experience in automotive repairs and using all kinds of stands. Thanks for sharing though. Best Wishes n Blessings. Keith Noneya
It's junk; pointless junk. It starts with the rig already under the car which means the car was somehow elevated previously so we're seeing step 2. Just not worth the bother. I have a general rule for YT videos to avoid anything with Genius, or Amazing, or Incredible, etc., in the title but unfortunately I let the thumbnail suck me in on this waste.
Not sure I would trust my life to my high school metal shop welding skills or your design LOL 😆
Enough nay sayers,.....I am making a ride on mower workstand and your idea for lifting it off the ground is exactly what I needed. I will incorporate some of what you did, thanks for sharing this!
Good idea but one thing I would've done differently is cut up some jack stands for the supports. That way they would automatically lock when raising it.
Allen McKinney Or could just use the jack stands as they were designed.
Or just use the jack stand instead of cutting it
Allen McKinney that is actually a great idea, but normally that would require a lot of ground clearance to begin with. try and watch the video fram safe jacks and you'll notice that the vertical bars are mounted at the end.
Cutting up jack stands to build more jack stands, brilliant! That's right up there with watering crops with Gatorade because plants need electrolytes.
OR just use the jack stands and don't cut them up
it is ok/safe to jack the car on the sheet metal body seems? Normally I use the body frame??
You could weld a bar with a drop peg across the top of two jack stands and get the same result but much safer.
Thanks, I might look into that !
Thanks for the idea, can anyone share a dseign for the new improvement that should be stronger and accident proof.
So a crocodile jack is also essential in puttin up this support?
Thank you very much.
Henry Ruiz.
Thè Philippines.
check it out our new channel
th-cam.com/channels/7cLr3cr5DsNWkW1E0s53vg.html
i dont have jackstands, i use a block of a 4x4 and 2 cans of peas stacked on each other instead.
bad idea. wood will split under pressure
People would flock to see you under a car with that.
Would be just as safe
I'm confused. You showed how to cut steel but how did you plug in the grinder or put on the gloves?
The bolts are in "shear", no weight rating. However, a grade8 automotive bolt of 3/8" diameter (dia. of section with no threads ) would be sufficient for a three or four thousand pound vehicle. I was more concerned about the foot (base) of the jackstand- I prefer at least three legs on mine.
Another key to making it safer is to take away the sharp points of holes once they have been drilled out like I learned in aircraft back in the day. Deburr/chamfer the holes on front with palm drill using slow rpms and on the inside of holes use a reversible countersink set sold from machinist site for deburring the inside holes. Then I noticed he drilled his holes from the side. I would have drilled holes on the front instead and locked out with steel pins from auto parts local store or local hardware store and get the kind with holes on the front of steel pin so I can put on safety hitch pin clips and good to go. Also on the top of stand you can buy parts separately from renjack stand for the pinch weld accessory or you can attach jackpuck to the top with modifications. Hope that info helps. Taking away sharp points on drill out is critical as they taught me in aircraft to prevent cracking later on by those sharp points. It's easy to deburr the outside holes but the inside takes a reversible countersink set. That tool set comes in handy.
I like it very much!, these doubters obviously haven't done much jacking! The main problem it solves is there's only one place you should support the car! so you can't put the axle stands in the correct place...because that's where you put the jack. The car I have just bought has had the stiffening ridge folded flat by either garages or home mechanics using axle stands in the wrong place!
They don't do real work on their cars or they would see the use for this.
Personally I never Jack up my car or support it by the jacking points, I always use suspension mount areas like where your axle is bolted to the car by large bolts etc because that is very solid, jacking points are OK but with a lot of use they can start to bend and it also takes the paint/underseal off them causing rust to start.
A GREAT way to place support exactly under a lifting point and a genius way to lift and support along the rockers.
If I may make a suggestion
Make the feet bigger .
Make the whole thing a little wider and a little taller . bigger bolts because all the weight is relying on those bolts. Cut a small channel on top bracket for the angle iron to sit in so you're not relying on the welds
Forget bolts....use solid pins.
King Jong Un yeah what king jong un said
Before suggesting wider, understand trusses. That may very well introduce new problems. Purchase something that is certified and made by a responsible company. Live long and prosper.
What is the weight rating on those bolts? Looks like a fun project for somebody (like me) learning how to weld.
Is this is absolutely amazing. If it were my invention I would name it jack stands
Cool idea, Im not sure the V channel is needed as the lip of the pannel is not a lifting point. The lifting point is in behind the lip on most cars.
I believe without the V wedge or channel this will work well behind the lip and do the job well.
THAT THING WOULD MAKE A NICE BOAT ANCHOR!!! JUS USE JACK STAND.
Wonder whether Vdo was a demo how welding is done or jacking up a car for which better options r avlble
Good idea poor welding and bad execution you shouldn't rely on them tiny bolts please use haredned pins to prevent shear failure
Joe Randall the welding looks pretty good to me
Youd be surprised; bolts have and insanely high Straight Sheer strength.
But yes..
Terrible welding.
I still don't understand why he kept switching to stick, then back to mig, then stick welding again. Maybe to try and get a better bead? Ha
I have a couple of pto driven implements that use sheer pins. Bolts are in no way near the sheer strength of a pin. A sheer pin( which is made to sheer in the event of a lockup) has more sheer strength than a grade 2 bolt. This is risky.
waynekc01 : I would not dwell on it to much. Some people are beyond the understanding of the human mind.
Wayne: I don't see any pinholes or flux inclusions, and as long as he achieved full penetration all the way around, does the surface appearance matter that much to the strength of the joint?
Nice Idea but I would have made the feet cover more area and what is the hardest of those bolts they need to be unbreakable for the weight you use them for.
Every heard of harbor freight !! Life's easier when others do the work for you..
Harbor freight offers nothing like this at all.
Nice idea, however the materials in uk would cost at least £75 without rattle can, a pair of 6 ton axle stands £40
These would be great for a car with only one support point where you can't put a jack stand on the same lifting pad.
A car never has only one "support point" . You should really jack a unibody car up by where the subframe bolts on , and if you have to then put the jack stand on reinforced rocker area ..
Using setscrews instead of hardened steel pins to support the car's weight seems like a risk. Useful if space is restricted, where a jack and normal axle stand would conflict, but otherwise a lot of work for little benefit.
Just the angle piece on top of the jack might be a good idea to spread the load when needing to raise under the sills. Remove jack saddle, and create a 'Y' from the angle and the pin.
Worried about the shear strength of the bolts....would pins be stronger?
Yes pins would be a better idea. Or grade 8 bolts. Fortunately looks like the car weighs less then 2 tons. Also should have tacked the the tubing together to drill the holes, or drilled them separately.
nice design, definitely gonna make like this one. Thanks for the idea
Thank you
Wow you invented the a less stable and safe jack stand. Now go run with scissors!
i give you credit, that inverted piece is longer than a jack stand groove, spanning more weight to the seam.
These are already being made nice idea however I'd like to see the base a little longer for more stability.
Joe HamRadioGuy ryyy66 k
Joe HamRadioGuy. All he had to do was weld a 6 inch long piece of angle iron to the top of a Wal-Mart jack stand and had the same thing except safer and cheaper
Григорий, здравствуйте, подскажите пожалуйста на сколько углублен гараж от уровня земли и какова крутизна заезда? Заранее благодарен!
I'm not trying to be a jerk but using a jack with a hockey puck with a grove cut out then putting a jack stand would do the same.
or even a block of wood
Have you had any problems with the on of switch on your ryobi grinder, ive gone through a fer of em, switch starts working opposite......
I am a bit worried about this. Those bolts could easily sheer under that pressure.
even a .25 inch grade 5 bolt has a shear weight around 4000 lbs.
Red Beard and The Den of Tools it won't sheer off
Rather than use bolts, why not use solid steel pins as used in a axle stand?
Red Beard and The Den of Tools that entire apparatus is begging to fall over under load
The shear force of one 10 mm bolt is over 3000 kg!
Decent design, but rethink the bolts. Thick shear pins would be a better choice, and make the top part interchangeable for different car models. Some have different kinds of contact points.
Re-title this video: The Widowmaker
Need big life insurance.
Nice job, but I believe it has limited application. To rotate tires on my family cars, I just went to Harbor freight and bought a second one ton floor jack for $29. I now have two floor jacks.That way I can jack up both wheels on the same side of the car and rotate them. Also, you can get a set of jackstands that are more heavy duty for $29
A waste of 7 minutes of my time. Just buy a set of jack stands.
walkerch ya 🤦🏻♂️
The big problem with this is that the weakest link is the bolts.... so the whole car will potentially be supported on two bolts. Should probably use thicker metal to support the vehicle.
This is EXTREMELY UNSAFE!
Jack stands are designed to hold a car elevated while you work underneath. Epic fail!
Good idea !
OK somewhat clever, but the foot print is too small. TOO TIPPY.
Also, since tou got the fabricobbling stuff, make a tool to actuate the valve on your jack.
Awesome idea but this won’t work on lowered cars. Need a locking latch attached to the jack. Also, the bolts should be rated for a safety factor of 3x especially since you only have a .120 wall x2 = .250 so you have the weight of the car with a shear concentration of .250 per two small bolts. I’d use some hardened pins instead (hence tow hitch) due to a lower shear strength on a bolt. Or a large hardened bolt. I like the invention tho!
i use jack stands
Just think of the cost of supplies too. They won't sell you a 2" piece of round stock. Have to buy 8'. Just like the rest of the materials. A better idea. Two jack stands. Use a piece of metal to connect the two tops of the jacks. etc.. you get the idea. Just make 2 stands one...
You should not lift by the pinch weld. The rocker around the pinch weld is reinforced and meant to take the load. You will eventually bend the pinch weld.
So this gives you one jack point rather than multiple. Anyone that knows what they’re doing won’t floor jack the weak spot of the pinch weld. They will hit the tranny mount, tow hook, frame, A arm bushing mount, etc...
lostintime86 you can't use 2 Jack stands, they are too high. Maybe if you have a 4x4 truck or suv that would work but not a car. German cars have to be jacked by the pinch welds.
racekar80 maybe...still a good idea,may need to custom fit it to your vehicules
This is way better than just jack stands. This is way fckn cool!
Or you could use a JACK STAND!? Again trying to reinvent the wheel!
patrick mcglone single point lift and stand. not the same.
And not safe to be under doing any work. It just looks like an anchor to me.
well, I do agree that a jackstand with a wide base will allow more horizontal force, but if you think of his video as inspiration rather than then final design - I think its a good idea (but I also know that there is a commercial alternative safe-jack) but its helpfull to see others making stuff as inspiration.
Bingo
Christian Andersen who are you trying to kid? This serves no other point other that an ugly jackstand! 99% of the stuff this person makes is a copy of an original or "HIS" version. These aren't " hacks", hacked up? Yeah but not hacks!
Wood blocks will also work in this application. Also the load was not spread across the welded channel that touched the car because the leg height cannot be adjusted correctly to spread the load. Just use jack stands or blocks. But I did like how it lifted the car for sure.
Flat and small when disassembled. Needs a stronger set of pins.
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I use a round log from our firewood pile about 18 inches in diameter, with 4 by 1 packers if needed, it can’t tip over or drop down. Also spreads the pressure on your chassis. Safe as houses. Nice welding job though.
How to shear bolts by using a car------should be the title
Hello, very good idea but you are welding in the wrong direction when you use MIG. You must weld in the opposite direction to which you weld with rutile electrode.
Never, EVER wear gloves when you're using a drill press. If the glove gets caught in the drill bit, well you can imagine what would happen to your hand!
Saw it happen once. The girl took a ride in the ambulance. Many stitches & 2 fingernails pulled off.
Maybe if you do not have a jack. Just buy a set of ramps if your only doing oil changes or just need the car off the ground more or if your not taking off tyres. Are their cheap too ,I have both and a hoist
7mins of my life I'll never get back. 😦
Nice job, but inset of this bolts I would use thicker pins.
Two tons of truck that are supported by 2 bolts? What happens if the bolts shear off after repeated use? Jack stands are not that expensive. Plus not everyone has all that metal cutting equipment and welding equipment?
Nice idea for unibody cars with very limited jacking area - most new cars only offer 5-8" of lifting area in the front and back - making jacking up the car and then placing jack stands very problematic - the jack is in the way... Although the execution of this design could be improved in several areas, the concept is actually quite practical for modern unibody cars. I would not use this on a full frame vehicle where jack or axle stands are easily applied...
hate to tell but walmart, every walmart has jack stands, not new, not genius
exactly ....it looks like he thinks he has reinvented the wheel! :D
or less
very cool idea ...great job !!
Ok Dr Hacker I'll give credit for thinking out side the "box" on this one but someone else has already been there done that. Please buy pins NOW!!!! I don't want hear that you were crushed under a car with them bolts......................
Nice idea. Using hardened pins rather than the soft bolts would be my main advice. I like that it fits the trolley jack underneath to lift it up.
Crap idea!! most cars are either too low or would not support the weight in that area
I stand by my endorsement of the idea. People with low cars and haters can look elsewhere.
Not sure where you get any facts on what height most cars are.
Good job. You made a dangerous and stupid version of a jack stand. Genius.
Good job, you made an asshole comment. Genius and already done in earlier comments.
Fast Nasty, except I was being sincere.
If I had these abilities, I would go to the basement, blind all the windows there, and be scrupulously careful that no one was filming.
Ok based on the comments I thought, this was going to be a total waste of my time. But you may be on to something, I kind of like it. Good on Ya, way to think outside the box
I like it. But my car is so low My jack doesn't even fit underneath it. Super handy idea for al car that is a little higher.
Why start with mig and finish with stick welding? Makes no sense!!
steb921 maybe he ran out of wire for the mig welder, I don't know just a wild guess.
steb921 my guess is his might welder wasn't hot enough for the thicker metal
Because he doesn't know how to mig weld properly. LOL he was making a mess with the mig. Watching the welding skills alone.. let alone the poor design, I would never get under a vehicle with that stand.
No mig was used in the making of whatever this is!!
because the MIG welds looked like baby shit. did you see the splatter?
It relies on the sill which has clearly been distorted. I can see it working for some but the good old axle stands all day long.
that looks dangerous.....
😀
I agree awful little bolts hold that car
yes
The upper corners 90 ° should have reinforcements with triangles, to eliminate rupture by possible oscillatory movements left and right. Do not forget that a car weighs 1.5 - 2 tons ...
Gussets could be used to reinforce the welds.
I find i get better results with the mig using gasless wire if i take the nozzle off as you can see the weld a lot better. The nozzle is only there to shield the gas when using gas.
...wow, what a great idea! If only someone hadn't already invented jack stands. DUH. Dr. Hacker better go back to hacking medical school.
Jack stands always seem in the way of what i'm doing. This would be a good alt. when needed.
Jose Cunha s
Jose show us YOUR fucking idea dick.
i think its great... however, if its only two feet holding it, its not too save... you need four legs to hold it together.. i mean if it swings sideways i just do not feel too safe....
This video is a joke, right?
Why.you ask that?
Why would anyone go through all the effort and expense to make a jack stand that you can buy cheaper and also won't collapse on you?
mark stone I understand your point. I suppose the vid would be directed to persons more like myself who have the necessary equipment or access to it, along with some knowledge on how to make some minor improvements to address the safety issues. I'm not a professional welder or fabricator of any sorts. Just fortunate to have some handy tools. Also, vids like these gives ideas on how to make use of scrap metal, which I also have alot of.
If you don't know how to make and/or use a jack stand, you should not try using the tools the sponsor ( or a "friend" sold you.! You could seriously injure yourself.
I did check it wasnt an April 1 version
From the shape of the top piece he seems to think the whole seam is OK as a jacking point, didnt even place it in the designed spot
I need something like thisz. To be able to jack the entire front end up at once doesnt leave me any damn room to put jack stands in to support botg sides at same time so i got to do one side at a time.. if i had somethibg to go around the jack and lock as the jack rises than would cut 15 mins off trying to put my shit in the air..
I would have just welded together 2 jack stands
blkthunderbolt knmoo
Esta interesante pero los tornillos no me dan mucha confianza en cualquier momento se pueden romper, tal vez meteria alguna barilla o algo mas fuerte
Lose the music.
stuart paterson Amen to that
cool concept with added stability. you could also put a pivot point on top with metal casters on bottom to rotate out of way or use as a car dolly to move whole car or part . Using leverage locks on side to lock casters down and spring mechanism to retract. Cool simple invention either way .
Not impressed. Waste of time. Use a jack stand.
not a bad idea but theres always jack stands. also, its only a matter of time before those bolts sheer right in half.
mechanical engineer would give this guy a B plus just needs work most of the complainers whiners I'm guessing 30 year olds and living at home . this takes effort alot of you don't have a clue.
Not inservice his device is completely unsafe.
Not inservice
Just because you put time and effort into a project doesn’t make it good or safe.
You would trust your life under 2 ton car that’s being held up by two puny screws? Pins designed to handle sheer strength would at least make this safe. It’s still not a good idea when you can buy jack stands for dirt cheap.
The idea is good, need stronger or bigger bolts though. I would also make the whole "lifting section" longer to get more clearance/space under the car if I made these.
Wow! Jack stands! What will you think of next !? Battery powered impact !?
I like the idea to expedite lifting the vehicle faster, but there’s a lot of what if. Good on you but keep modifying to where it’s safe and solid.
Three wheels on the ground, not falling unless maybe if it were to roll away. That would not be the stands fault.
Watching him lower the jack with pliers………… all you need to know! Too many problems with this video to point them all out……… safety first folks!
Change those 2 bolts to hardened pins. A heavier vehicle may shear those right off because that thin-walled tubing will act like a shear. Other than that they look cool.
VERY BAD IDEA. The welds and bolts should be the least of anyone's worries. What's to prevent the stand from flipping over while it's being lifted via the little pin in the middle? All it takes is a little rock in front of the jack's wheel and the stand will start to flip and drop the car. He should've removed the jack's saddle so the stand's pin could slide in and be secure.
No podia meter los tornillos y los agaro a martillasos me Hizo 😀
What do you use to keep your work table from rusting?
Very dangerous.
500 kgs on those 2 bolts.
Topling risk.
If you spent half as much time preparing your steel for welding as you do grinding the ugly welds, you would have better welds and not need to grind them to clean up the ugly welds. Taking a sanding disk to the steel before welding makes a huge difference.
copy paste: "sad but true"
огромная эрекция
9 months ago
The bolts are the least of your worries, look at the godamn welds!
Nothing a little bondo won’t fix! 😂
I would use a hitch pin over bolts. Wouldn’t trust bolts to handle the sheer load unless they were hardened.
Its too short genius!
Francesco Donato any taller and it won't fit , already too tall unless you have a truck or suv
Great idea! I'm looking for something like that for years but coudn't find a supplier. After watching your video I will build my own version. I will however modify your design to better prevent tipping.
What is it with so called mechanics on TH-cam? They want to convince you NOT to use anti-seize on spark plugs but convince you that jacking and/or supporting a car on the pinch welds is OK. That's allot of fab work to do something so wrong. Genius? I think not.
X-Man. Please see the jacking instructions included in your owner's manual or with your spare tire. Supporting by the pinchwelds is safe and correct for most vehicles.
@ Some Guy- I own 2 GM vehicles with Unibody chassis. Both have specific jack points that are NOT on pinch welds. Some cars did engineer specific points on pinch welds as jack points, that is true. The ones I've seen are on Toyota's and the are much more robust than the typical pinch welds at the specific designated jack point. I think you are making a leap to say "most vehicles" but I don't know for sure EITHER.
X-Man but they’ll make fancy picture frames?
X-Man. It's not much of a leap. Unless there's a frame or some other obviously better jacking point, I've lifted many cars by their pinch welds. If they're good enough for the factory assembly line when the car is being made, they're good enough for me and yes, I'm sure.
Once I jacked up a rusty old Honda by the pinchweld, which is the factory recommended jacking point for those, and the rocker panel collapsed with a crunch and the car fell and shifted about eight inches. That was as much fun as a barrel of monkeys, I assure you.
@Some Guy- Your to paragraphs sound like you are arguing with yourself.
" good enough for the factory assembly line when the car is being made, they're good enough for me and yes, I'm sure." In the factory they may support the major assemblies by the pinch welds but likely never just one and the assembly being move around weighs allot less than the whole car. Still sure? Don't be absurd, you're comparing apples and oranges.
Then you go on to tell your real world story of how a pinch weld collapsed on you.
Here's some basic engineering: If you are jacking a car by a pinch weld, even a factory designated jack point that is a more robust pinch weld, you need more area than just the round head of a floor jack or those ridiculous Hockey Puck size rubber cushions. An adapter could be fabbed up that is about a foot long with a grove in it to accommodate the pinch weld so the weight is spread out over a larger area. Cover the pinch weld contact area with some rubber from cut up inner tube or equivalent. You still need a good spot for a jack stand if you are going underneath. Good luck with all that.
I have also deformed a designate jack point on a uni-body vehicle (wasn't a pinch weld), with a floor jack. Remember, the factory wants you to take your car to a dealer to be worked on where they use 4 point lifts. People rarely have flats anymore, some new cars don't even come with spares now.
The factory has determined you will likely be well beyond warranty before you even get a flat, let alone collapse a pinch weld jacking the car . In other words, it's likely not their problem if you collapse a pinch weld.
I wonder how much shear weight those pins will take... Or you could just use jack stands.