OMG!!! Talk about saving money...I had this blower in my shed for years, never really had to use it, but when I tried..no go...called a repair shop and the estimate they gave me was more then I originally paid for the blower NEW...found this video...went step by step and it started right up....THANKS!!!
Nice to hear a success story, and glad to hear you didn’t leave it out on the curb just to buy a new one. The newer ones don’t keep well over storage, and are harder to do a carb job. Thanks for commenting
My neighbor nextdoor had gotten this same exact model from a guy for like $20.00 and it wouldn't run at all! We had recently gotten a big winter storm that moved in from the north-west into Indiana and got a huge snow dump of 10 to 13 inches. The snow blower was sitting outside in his junk pile and I asked if I could work on it to see if I could get it going. Replaced the spark plug, checked the coil pack and it checked out ok. Took the gas tank off and thoroughly cleaned it out of all the junk in it. Insured the line was clear from gunk and build up. Took the carburetor off and found water in the cap/bowl of it and thoroughly cleaned the carburetor in and out and blew out all jets and reassembled it. Put everything back together with fresh fuel and started up like a champ! Previously also performed the standard checks to see if the engine would run using starting fluid and ran so I too knew the engine was good to go and that it was a carburetor issue. These 2-cycle engines are pretty simple and straight forward to get them to run. ;)
To each their own. These older ones are pretty bullet proof. The new ones are worse and worse in terms of quality. If you are buying new I’d suggest other manufacturers if quality is important (toro Ariens) unless it’s too good to pass up on clearance.
Thank you finally got ours going again put a new carb in it 2 years ago and this winter it didn’t pull I’m not super inclined on blowers cars or any of this so this was a huge help
Thanks soo much man for this video. Just received one of these and I'm having the same issue. Will tackle the issue now before this North East Winter Storm tonight. Appreciate yah. Thanks a lot.
Sounds like it was free 🤟 hope you get things sorted before it’s needed. Thanks for commenting. Hope you consider subscribing. I have more content about maintaining this machine coming soon.
Great video. Went thru each step you did, and a free yard machines branded snowblower fired up and runs fine. About $10.00 for a new plug and can of carb cleaning and this little beast cleared my drive of about 6" of snow
Awesome 🤟 glad it helped. These machines are pretty bullet proof, and relatively easy to work on compared to others. I have more content coming real soon on this machine. Hope you consider subscribing!
Those Eagle gas cans are all I use--I pick them up used whenever I can find them. Everything else is garbage and leaks all over the place. All thanks to the EPA.
A good diagnostic would be to hit it with a little starting fluid. That immediately tells you if the plug is good, and the thing is even worth repairing. If it it runs, you know 2 of your 3 things - compression and spark are good. The only thing bad is somewhere in fuel delivery. Carb or fuel line/tank. Just a thought. Otherwise, good video. OK, typed too soon...you did it at about 5:40, it's the first thing I would have tried...
Jonathan, I like your example. I just got a Sno-Tech 24" with the same problem. It was the same problem on my end. The carburetor is not as easy to clean as this one was.
Glad you found it helpful. You are right. The new style carburetors are less forgiving and harder to access and clean. I’d recommend adding a fuel shut off if it doesn’t already have one. That way you can run it dry every time you use it.
Great video. Just got same snowblower for free to, hope this does the trick. Very informative. Now if I get it running, at the end of winter should I run any remaining gas dry, should I remove gas. Or can you add stabilizer to oil /gas mixture?
Nice! Removing all gas is always best for storage. However, These carburetors are pretty forgiving. I’ve had luck leaving gas/oil mix with stabilizer in the tank. I like to run it for 5 mins or so before I store it away, and again before the season starts to know it’s good to go when you need it.
@@everybodysjonathan thank you for the quick response. I did everything you did in the video and it started first pull . Running great, the only thing is it seems to be shooting out a lot of smoke. Is that because it's running rich old gas or could that also be the fogging oil I sprayed into the cylinder? I use premixed 50:1 gas from trufuel. And it's still got about a little less than a quarter tank of gas. And I know I could run it dry but at the same time don't want to smoke out the neighbors. If I take the carb cover off again, can I drain out that old gas from there , or should I just turn it upside down and drain the tank into a bucket. Thanks in advance for your advice, much appreciated.
So the fogging oil will cause some smoke initially on start up. If you think the gas mix is okay you may try running it longer. Usually the smoke dissipates after 5 mins or so. It will always have some smoke being a 2 stroke. If you believe the gas is bad. Either a bad mix or old gas ( will start to smell sweet) definitely dispose of it. There’s no right way to do it. Since this model has easy access to the fuel line. Id just remove from where it attaches from the carb. If the line is weathered (could get damaged upon removal) and i just wanted to do the gas change job I’d open the carb bowl again to drain.
This video is so helpful! I have one issue still i had a little pin looking thing fall out of this same machine and i cant figure out where it goes back
If the pin has a point in one end that’s the float needle and is attached to the small tab on the float( donut looking thing). The tab is on the backside of the float. And under that There is a hole where the needle goes in to the carb point side first. I recommend taking off the float and attaching the two together as a whole.
Here’s a tecumseh carb assembly. It’s not the exact carb but shows you how everything goes together. Good luck brother. www.jackssmallengines.com/jacks-parts-lookup/manufacturer/tecumseh/4-cycle-horizontal/h-35/h35-45657x/tec-632705/carburetor?__cf_chl_f_tk=Ot6OzqBVkQY9OuYSS5hbhWCOyhaYrn3vaDEyruBH.jo-1644695361-0-gaNycGzNCBE
Picked up a mtd 4.5 21 from the thrift shop up the road from me for 20 bucks, had the same issue. So I tore apart the carburetor, cleaned it up, picked up a fel-pro gasket material sheet kit from autozone, made new gaskets, slapped the carburetor back together, pulled the spark plug, sanded the contacts cleaned, fired right up and kept running, put it through some test passes, including multiple shit downs and restarts. (Edit) I didn't have the no fuel issue. Instead, the gaskets leaked like a faucet.
Seems like a good deal. Hopefully those gaskets last. If you run into another leak, New tecumseh carb bowl gaskets are easy to come by and they are all universal as far as I know. Thanks for commenting.
@@everybodysjonathan They seem to be holding up pretty good. Do you know where I can find the gaskets for the carb? I've looked around but can't find much.
I just get mine from Amazon. A little bit pricey but the knock off brands are not thick enough to work on the tecumseh. Tecumseh 631028A Carburetor Float Bowl Gasket, Pack of 2 a.co/d/5OvK1OE
Well... the primer bulb kind of sounds like a foot-pump... I'm not sure if it's supposed to do that... Edit: you said it isn't supposed to. Good thing you got it working again.
Some older machines ran a40:1 mix. Ive always put 50:1 in them without an issue. The machine I was working on is about 30 years old. Oil quality standards have gotten better within that timeframe. I believe sticking with the 50/1 ratio and buying synthetic is still the best option.
Running 40:1 will just cause it to smoke a little more, but running a quality 2-cycle oil will minimize any smoke. I run 40:1 in my 50:1 snow blower because my string trimmer uses 40:1.
How did you suck the starting fluid in? Is there an opening in the top of the carb when it was still assembled? Wasn't sure where it was getting air-- i looked for a filter like a mower. Mine runs fine, but was going to clean the carb with some powertune at some point.
Snow blowers don’t run an air filter. There is access in the small slit where the choke lever extends from. You can direct the spray downwards to make it through the carb. I hear it’s not wise to use starting fluid on 2 stroke engines often. The engine shouldn’t need it if it’s running right.
@@everybodysjonathan Thanks, I was going to run some carb cleaner through it before I put it away this spring. I use the Mercury Powertune product on my outboard and it works wonders on a 20 year old engine.... I now use it on all my small engines as well.
I picked up one of these similar units for free, but someone tore off the model number sticker. mine appears to be pretty similar, any chance you would mind posting the serial number or a picture of it? I know it may not be exactly the same, and willing to take that risk, since I don't know of any other way to get the model number for the blower. Thank you in advance!
I grabbed one of these out if a free pile Friday. Exact one. Serial number says it's from mid 90s. I'll definitely be copying what you did here and seeing what luck I have with it.
Nice, simple but well built machines. They don’t have a lot of value in my area. Since I flip them I’m my main concern is spending too much time / money on it, whereas for a similar toro I wouldn’t think twice.
10:25, word to the wise: don't lift the float (donut thing) all the way out. It holds a pin type thing behind it on a small wire and will will fall out
Good tip. I think you are referring to the float needle. It can be tricky to get back in depending on the angle you are working. Worse comes to worse you can take the carburetor off for re assembly. In regards to your question about a rebuilt kit. I’ve never needed to completely rebuild one. Most tecumseh carbs use similar if not the same carb parts. I just pull from my bin of old carbs. If you don’t have carb parts laying around it’s likely the same price to just buy a new carb from Amazon / eBay. Here’s a tecumseh rebuild kit. They should work with the MTD 4.5hp 21” two stroke blower. www.amazon.com/631021-632019-Tecumseh-Repair-Float/dp/B01N6IXPXO/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?crid=KWFPJCLQ51NO&keywords=tecumseh+632019A&qid=1642983385&sprefix=tecumseh+632019a%2Caps%2C287&sr=8-4
I use to rebuild carburetors and took the float out and put it back without any issues at all. Just got to pay attention to detail and you can put it back ok if done so!
I subscribed and liked your video, so I am hoping that you will return the favor by helping me. I went to start mine today, and after I put enough fuel in the tank get the primer bulb working, it started right up. It looks as though I need a new belt, as the existing belt started smoking and looks a little frayed in a spot. Question for you is, I see that oil has splattered and dried underneath from somewhere in front of the carb. What is that likely coming from and how critical is it that it is fixed? I sort of want to just change the belt and be done with this, but I don't want to sell someone a machine that is going to seize up somewhere and not work.
Thank you! The only oil in this machine is from the fuel mix. I’ve seen these slowly leak before and the gas will mostly evaporate leaving just the oil residue. You’d need to determine where the leak is coming from on the fuel system. I see often it’s from just the bottom bowl gasket (held in by the jet bolt) that gets hardened overtime. If the leak is large, it’s likely not the culprit. You may look into a fuel like or needle seat on the float. Hope this helps.
@@everybodysjonathan Thank you for the reply. The leak is not coming from the threaded jet you cleaned in your video. It is coming from whatever is in front of that (round like a turbocharger housing, but obviously not). It could be even farther in front of that. Do these have permanent lubrication for the shaft off the engine that runs to the pulley?
These don’t have any lubrication points. The only lubrication as far as I know is from the oil mix inside the engine. If it’s a crank seal (the engine shaft that runs to the small pulley) you might be SOL as I don’t believe there is much support for these engines anymore. You can buy most other parts from MTD / Amazon though. The best move would be to run it through its paces before handing it off. That way you can be sure it’s ready for sale or not.
Correct. The primer uses air to change the location of some fuel in the carburetor. You see when the engine is running, a vacuum draws the fuel up the emulsion jet. When the engine is not running, the primer simulates this vacuum. Thanks for commenting!
These are pretty simple but more or less bulletproof machines. Work well in most conditions. The carburetors are easy to access and clean. Glad to hear it helps, hope you consider subscribing!
Never do a quick and dirty it’s a bad habit do it the right way take it off if you watch mowers n blowers he’s a bad influence The way you’re doing it’s the lazy man’s way
I understand there are more thorough ways of cleaning a carb, and I’m not telling anyone this way is superior. Thanks for pointing that out. The average snowblower owner likely just wants their machine to function when it snows. removal of the carb may tear gaskets or the fuel line, Or even lead to losing the throttle spring. The regular Joe/Jane may find themselves over their head quickly. Appreciate the comment.
You wore gloves for non-gas jobs, BUT removed gloves to handle VERY STINKY GASOLINE/OIL jobs, not realistic, PLUS you did not clamp the gas line to stop the flow of leaking gas, AFTER filling snowblower's tank. I have to give Thumb's Down.
The gloves I wore were for the cold temp, they are leather and insulated inside and don’t mix well with gas. You can see my breath at one point if you looked. I don’t have a heated garage you may note. The machine had only fresh gas that I filled along with the crud in the carb. I had the machine tipped up which makes for better viewing, pinching the line is not necessary and thats just the way I like to do it for these particular machines. As you see I was still quite effective in accomplishing the goal. This channel was created to help the regular person accomplish something they may not have been able to before watching. If you have anything to help anybody I’d like to see it 😉
OMG!!! Talk about saving money...I had this blower in my shed for years, never really had to use it, but when I tried..no go...called a repair shop and the estimate they gave me was more then I originally paid for the blower NEW...found this video...went step by step and it started right up....THANKS!!!
Nice to hear a success story, and glad to hear you didn’t leave it out on the curb just to buy a new one. The newer ones don’t keep well over storage, and are harder to do a carb job. Thanks for commenting
Same problem with mine that I inherited. Did the exact same thing you did and it started right up. Thanks for saving me a lot of grief!
My neighbor nextdoor had gotten this same exact model from a guy for like $20.00 and it wouldn't run at all! We had recently gotten a big winter storm that moved in from the north-west into Indiana and got a huge snow dump of 10 to 13 inches. The snow blower was sitting outside in his junk pile and I asked if I could work on it to see if I could get it going. Replaced the spark plug, checked the coil pack and it checked out ok. Took the gas tank off and thoroughly cleaned it out of all the junk in it. Insured the line was clear from gunk and build up. Took the carburetor off and found water in the cap/bowl of it and thoroughly cleaned the carburetor in and out and blew out all jets and reassembled it. Put everything back together with fresh fuel and started up like a champ! Previously also performed the standard checks to see if the engine would run using starting fluid and ran so I too knew the engine was good to go and that it was a carburetor issue. These 2-cycle engines are pretty simple and straight forward to get them to run. ;)
Thanks for sharing Glenn. Nice success story!
@@everybodysjonathan are mtd snowblowers any good?
To each their own. These older ones are pretty bullet proof. The new ones are worse and worse in terms of quality. If you are buying new I’d suggest other manufacturers if quality is important (toro Ariens) unless it’s too good to pass up on clearance.
Awesome video. I just picked up the same snowblower that someone was throwing away and it won't start. I'll use your info to get it running. Thanks!
Thank you finally got ours going again put a new carb in it 2 years ago and this winter it didn’t pull I’m not super inclined on blowers cars or any of this so this was a huge help
Perfect, glad you gave it a shot and it worked out.
Hey would you happen to know what carb works in these?
Thanks soo much man for this video. Just received one of these and I'm having the same issue. Will tackle the issue now before this North East Winter Storm tonight. Appreciate yah. Thanks a lot.
Sounds like it was free 🤟 hope you get things sorted before it’s needed. Thanks for commenting. Hope you consider subscribing. I have more content about maintaining this machine coming soon.
Great video. Went thru each step you did, and a free yard machines branded snowblower fired up and runs fine.
About $10.00 for a new plug and can of carb cleaning and this little beast cleared my drive of about 6" of snow
Awesome 🤟 glad it helped. These machines are pretty bullet proof, and relatively easy to work on compared to others. I have more content coming real soon on this machine. Hope you consider subscribing!
Great job man, same issues here. Did you have a chance to try it on some fresh white stuff? Im eager to see how well it performs
Those Eagle gas cans are all I use--I pick them up used whenever I can find them. Everything else is garbage and leaks all over the place. All thanks to the EPA.
Thanks my buddy gave me his yard machine and it won't start but I'm thinking I've got to prime it really good first! 🐊
A good diagnostic would be to hit it with a little starting fluid. That immediately tells you if the plug is good, and the thing is even worth repairing. If it it runs, you know 2 of your 3 things - compression and spark are good. The only thing bad is somewhere in fuel delivery. Carb or fuel line/tank. Just a thought. Otherwise, good video. OK, typed too soon...you did it at about 5:40, it's the first thing I would have tried...
Jonathan, I like your example. I just got a Sno-Tech 24" with the same problem. It was the same problem on my end.
The carburetor is not as easy to clean as this one was.
Glad you found it helpful. You are right. The new style carburetors are less forgiving and harder to access and clean. I’d recommend adding a fuel shut off if it doesn’t already have one. That way you can run it dry every time you use it.
@@everybodysjonathan thanks for the suggestion.
Great video. Just got same snowblower for free to, hope this does the trick. Very informative. Now if I get it running, at the end of winter should I run any remaining gas dry, should I remove gas. Or can you add stabilizer to oil /gas mixture?
Nice! Removing all gas is always best for storage. However, These carburetors are pretty forgiving. I’ve had luck leaving gas/oil mix with stabilizer in the tank. I like to run it for 5 mins or so before I store it away, and again before the season starts to know it’s good to go when you need it.
@@everybodysjonathan thank you for the quick response. I did everything you did in the video and it started first pull . Running great, the only thing is it seems to be shooting out a lot of smoke. Is that because it's running rich old gas or could that also be the fogging oil I sprayed into the cylinder? I use premixed 50:1 gas from trufuel. And it's still got about a little less than a quarter tank of gas. And I know I could run it dry but at the same time don't want to smoke out the neighbors. If I take the carb cover off again, can I drain out that old gas from there , or should I just turn it upside down and drain the tank into a bucket. Thanks in advance for your advice, much appreciated.
So the fogging oil will cause some smoke initially on start up. If you think the gas mix is okay you may try running it longer. Usually the smoke dissipates after 5 mins or so. It will always have some smoke being a 2 stroke. If you believe the gas is bad. Either a bad mix or old gas ( will start to smell sweet) definitely dispose of it. There’s no right way to do it. Since this model has easy access to the fuel line. Id just remove from where it attaches from the carb. If the line is weathered (could get damaged upon removal) and i just wanted to do the gas change job I’d open the carb bowl again to drain.
@@everybodysjonathan great, thanks again.
This video is so helpful! I have one issue still i had a little pin looking thing fall out of this same machine and i cant figure out where it goes back
If the pin has a point in one end that’s the float needle and is attached to the small tab on the float( donut looking thing). The tab is on the backside of the float. And under that There is a hole where the needle goes in to the carb point side first. I recommend taking off the float and attaching the two together as a whole.
Here’s a tecumseh carb assembly. It’s not the exact carb but shows you how everything goes together. Good luck brother.
www.jackssmallengines.com/jacks-parts-lookup/manufacturer/tecumseh/4-cycle-horizontal/h-35/h35-45657x/tec-632705/carburetor?__cf_chl_f_tk=Ot6OzqBVkQY9OuYSS5hbhWCOyhaYrn3vaDEyruBH.jo-1644695361-0-gaNycGzNCBE
@@everybodysjonathan m
Picked up a mtd 4.5 21 from the thrift shop up the road from me for 20 bucks, had the same issue. So I tore apart the carburetor, cleaned it up, picked up a fel-pro gasket material sheet kit from autozone, made new gaskets, slapped the carburetor back together, pulled the spark plug, sanded the contacts cleaned, fired right up and kept running, put it through some test passes, including multiple shit downs and restarts.
(Edit) I didn't have the no fuel issue. Instead, the gaskets leaked like a faucet.
Seems like a good deal. Hopefully those gaskets last. If you run into another leak, New tecumseh carb bowl gaskets are easy to come by and they are all universal as far as I know. Thanks for commenting.
@@everybodysjonathan They seem to be holding up pretty good. Do you know where I can find the gaskets for the carb? I've looked around but can't find much.
I just get mine from Amazon. A little bit pricey but the knock off brands are not thick enough to work on the tecumseh.
Tecumseh 631028A Carburetor Float Bowl Gasket, Pack of 2 a.co/d/5OvK1OE
@@everybodysjonathan awesome, thank you 😊
Well... the primer bulb kind of sounds like a foot-pump... I'm not sure if it's supposed to do that...
Edit: you said it isn't supposed to. Good thing you got it working again.
I'm buying one of these next week. Manual calls for 50:1 ratio. Would it hurt it to run it a little richer at 40:1?
Some older machines ran a40:1 mix. Ive always put 50:1 in them without an issue. The machine I was working on is about 30 years old. Oil quality standards have gotten better within that timeframe. I believe sticking with the 50/1 ratio and buying synthetic is still the best option.
Running 40:1 will just cause it to smoke a little more, but running a quality 2-cycle oil will minimize any smoke. I run 40:1 in my 50:1 snow blower because my string trimmer uses 40:1.
Exactly what I needed. Thanks
Awesome man, I appreciate the support !
How did you suck the starting fluid in? Is there an opening in the top of the carb when it was still assembled? Wasn't sure where it was getting air-- i looked for a filter like a mower. Mine runs fine, but was going to clean the carb with some powertune at some point.
Snow blowers don’t run an air filter. There is access in the small slit where the choke lever extends from. You can direct the spray downwards to make it through the carb. I hear it’s not wise to use starting fluid on 2 stroke engines often. The engine shouldn’t need it if it’s running right.
@@everybodysjonathan Thanks, I was going to run some carb cleaner through it before I put it away this spring. I use the Mercury Powertune product on my outboard and it works wonders on a 20 year old engine.... I now use it on all my small engines as well.
I picked up one of these similar units for free, but someone tore off the model number sticker. mine appears to be pretty similar, any chance you would mind posting the serial number or a picture of it? I know it may not be exactly the same, and willing to take that risk, since I don't know of any other way to get the model number for the blower. Thank you in advance!
Try this model number: 316-140-000
I know this is an old post. Any idea what year and model number? I have a model that looks just like that on and I need to replace a the belt.
Yes, model: 31AE150-129
Very good tip! Thanks.
You’re welcome, glad it’s helpful. Thanks for the support.
Hey! Is this machine usd regular gas with out oil?
This is a two stroke with 50:1 gas:oil ratio. You will either need to mix, or buy pre mixed fuel at a store that sells snowblowers.
Very helpful. Thank you
You gained a new sub
What size belt does it take ?
good on the snowblower ma man
I grabbed one of these out if a free pile Friday. Exact one.
Serial number says it's from mid 90s.
I'll definitely be copying what you did here and seeing what luck I have with it.
Nice, simple but well built machines. They don’t have a lot of value in my area. Since I flip them I’m my main concern is spending too much time / money on it, whereas for a similar toro I wouldn’t think twice.
Got me a runner and the auger turns.
I'm in the market for a carb kit.
Any links to the exact one?
Do you use regular or mixed gasoline?
This MTD model takes mixed gas 50:1. It should say on the gas cap.
10:25, word to the wise: don't lift the float (donut thing) all the way out. It holds a pin type thing behind it on a small wire and will will fall out
Good tip. I think you are referring to the float needle. It can be tricky to get back in depending on the angle you are working. Worse comes to worse you can take the carburetor off for re assembly. In regards to your question about a rebuilt kit. I’ve never needed to completely rebuild one. Most tecumseh carbs use similar if not the same carb parts. I just pull from my bin of old carbs. If you don’t have carb parts laying around it’s likely the same price to just buy a new carb from Amazon / eBay. Here’s a tecumseh rebuild kit. They should work with the MTD 4.5hp 21” two stroke blower. www.amazon.com/631021-632019-Tecumseh-Repair-Float/dp/B01N6IXPXO/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?crid=KWFPJCLQ51NO&keywords=tecumseh+632019A&qid=1642983385&sprefix=tecumseh+632019a%2Caps%2C287&sr=8-4
I use to rebuild carburetors and took the float out and put it back without any issues at all. Just got to pay attention to detail and you can put it back ok if done so!
Ya that's the needle valve spring. Don't wanna loose that
Thanks your nice video
Appreciate the comment. I have more content on this machine coming soon.
if you want to see it done right and get a chuckle look at taryl fixes all
I subscribed and liked your video, so I am hoping that you will return the favor by helping me. I went to start mine today, and after I put enough fuel in the tank get the primer bulb working, it started right up. It looks as though I need a new belt, as the existing belt started smoking and looks a little frayed in a spot. Question for you is, I see that oil has splattered and dried underneath from somewhere in front of the carb. What is that likely coming from and how critical is it that it is fixed? I sort of want to just change the belt and be done with this, but I don't want to sell someone a machine that is going to seize up somewhere and not work.
Thank you!
The only oil in this machine is from the fuel mix. I’ve seen these slowly leak before and the gas will mostly evaporate leaving just the oil residue. You’d need to determine where the leak is coming from on the fuel system. I see often it’s from just the bottom bowl gasket (held in by the jet bolt) that gets hardened overtime. If the leak is large, it’s likely not the culprit. You may look into a fuel like or needle seat on the float. Hope this helps.
@@everybodysjonathan Thank you for the reply. The leak is not coming from the threaded jet you cleaned in your video. It is coming from whatever is in front of that (round like a turbocharger housing, but obviously not). It could be even farther in front of that. Do these have permanent lubrication for the shaft off the engine that runs to the pulley?
These don’t have any lubrication points. The only lubrication as far as I know is from the oil mix inside the engine. If it’s a crank seal (the engine shaft that runs to the small pulley) you might be SOL as I don’t believe there is much support for these engines anymore. You can buy most other parts from MTD / Amazon though. The best move would be to run it through its paces before handing it off. That way you can be sure it’s ready for sale or not.
Primer bulb does not put gas in carburetor!!!! It puts air into the carburetor.
Correct. The primer uses air to change the location of some fuel in the carburetor. You see when the engine is running, a vacuum draws the fuel up the emulsion jet. When the engine is not running, the primer simulates this vacuum. Thanks for commenting!
Give you a thumbs up are you serious I should pay you do you know how much money you save me thanks a lot I’ll give you two thumbs up!!!!
Just glad you found it useful. Happy new year !
Helps me just got a used one
These are pretty simple but more or less bulletproof machines. Work well in most conditions. The carburetors are easy to access and clean. Glad to hear it helps, hope you consider subscribing!
Never do a quick and dirty it’s a bad habit do it the right way take it off if you watch mowers n blowers he’s a bad influence The way you’re doing it’s the lazy man’s way
I understand there are more thorough ways of cleaning a carb, and I’m not telling anyone this way is superior. Thanks for pointing that out. The average snowblower owner likely just wants their machine to function when it snows. removal of the carb may tear gaskets or the fuel line, Or even lead to losing the throttle spring. The regular Joe/Jane may find themselves over their head quickly. Appreciate the comment.
"did you noticed the sound in the primer?"
Nope, you were talking as you pushed the primer.
Did you say something? I was talking just now 🤣
@@everybodysjonathan smart a$$, really?
@@everybodysjonathan lol
You wore gloves for non-gas jobs, BUT removed gloves to handle VERY STINKY GASOLINE/OIL jobs, not realistic, PLUS you did not clamp the gas line to stop the flow of leaking gas, AFTER filling snowblower's tank. I have to give Thumb's Down.
The gloves I wore were for the cold temp, they are leather and insulated inside and don’t mix well with gas. You can see my breath at one point if you looked. I don’t have a heated garage you may note. The machine had only fresh gas that I filled along with the crud in the carb. I had the machine tipped up which makes for better viewing, pinching the line is not necessary and thats just the way I like to do it for these particular machines. As you see I was still quite effective in accomplishing the goal. This channel was created to help the regular person accomplish something they may not have been able to before watching. If you have anything to help anybody I’d like to see it 😉