OK so thanks for all the comments and there are a number of recurring themes, additional hints and tips that other's have left since I posted this video, FYI they are:- 1. Consider adding a fuel additive (stabiliser) to your tank, especially in countries where petrol has a high ethanol content. 2. Clean your bike before storage and possibly cover it to stop dust. 3. Top up your tank with petrol to help stop any condensation (and rust) build up in the tank.. 4. Exercise caution if warming up, but not riding, an air-cooled bike for a significant amount of time - they are designed to be cooled by airflow over the engine. 5. Consider running a dehumidifier in the garage. All good stuff! Stay safe folks!
I'm in Canada and our winter months necessitate prolonged storage of my bikes. The one other thing I do when putting my bikes in storage is to fill the fuel tanks and use a fuel stabilizer in order to keep the fuel fresh. Cheers!
Stuart Maclean, Although not as far north only in Wisconsin but long storage times are the norm. One thing other thing I do when also storing cars is to pump the brakes every couple weeks along with exercising the hydraulic clutches if equipped.
I also put a few ounces of 2t oil in the tank to help lube carbs and keep any rubber supple. Also spray all metal, except brake rotors, with WD40 to prevent corrosion.
I’ve lubed , polished ,polished again ,pumped the tyres, taken my bikes apart ,put them back together ,got nothing left to do Ahhhhhhhhhhh . Stay safe Mr Flyer, stay healthy to you and your family . 🇬🇧🏍❤️😀
Keeping one on the road myself, However the others are sitting with petrol drained and carb float bowls also drained ( Older bikes ) I wont be starting them at all as it takes a good 20 mins of riding to get oil up to temperature and that's never going to happen on the drive. It takes long runs to prevent moisture accumulating in the oil, just warming up the engine will do more harm than good.
Hi TMF, I would caution against starting and warming a bike up, like you do. More wear will occur in a cold engine, and engines not driving (under no load) the bike take much longer to properly warm to disperse condensation. The same is doubly true of the exhaust, which again can suffer from corrosion due to regular start ups. Leave the engine un-stated, and if you are really worried when you do eventually start the bike, in the old days you'd whip the plugs out put a drip of oil in each cylinder and gently turn it over by hand with no compression. But on modern bikes you really are not going to suffer for a few months without running it. After all how long do new and used bikes sit in storage and dealers stock before being sold. Sometimes it's not months, its years! If you don't believe me look what happened when Euro4 came into force- loads of 'old' new bikes had to be registered. The rest is all good stuff though. Going nowhere with you!
Agree, you’ll emulsify the oil and moisture. Heating and cooling will breathe damp air in and out the cases adding to the problem you’re trying to avoid...
“Keep your insurance going” yes, we wouldn’t want our good friends in the insurance industry losing out! I’ve lost count on the amount of good gestures they’ve done for me over the years!!!
Mmmm, I think TMF’s point is a fair one, the last thing anyone needs is to wake up your pride and joys has been taken and for the sake of a months premium you were not covered? Anyway each to his or her own I guess...
Mark Lewis yes, it’s not a dig at TMF, he’s correct in what he’s saying... I’m just having a little dig at all the insurance companies out there who in my opinion, take the piss!
@@PillSharks Yes maybe they could follow the governments lead on Sorn-ing your cover until you want to use the remaining months or extending everyones current cover by 6 months like MOT's.
- I've found with insurance companies, that if you remind their employees that they work for little more than a glorified betting shop, they either begin to talk sense & adjust the premium to suit . . . or hang up. eg. 'As it's Sorned, it's no longer a road vehicle & can be included in the household cover - yes?' . . .'Click' : )
If your garage is not clean enough to eat of the floor like Andy’s, a dust cover is a good idea. Also if possible try to get the lowest ethanol content fuel you can and add a good fuel stabilizer. Top up your fuel tank to leave minimal room for condensation. If you have vintage bikes like I do with carbs drain them, especially if you have to store the bike with gasoline that has ethanol. Unfortunately here in Canada long term bike storage is an annual ritual. Stay safe and help flatten the curve so we can get gasket out there.
Every bikers dream .... haven’t got room to move in the garage, due to the number of bikes. Love it 🍻 By the way, your chat with Bruce, top quality entertainment. Had to break in to two parts, but, excellent from start to finish.
Hi TMF. As a lot of us are also car owners its worth mentioning to keep car battery maintenance in our minds. There will be many car batteries, on cars a few years old, that are past their best but are fine when used regularly. With the fewer and less distance journeys most people are doing there will be many batteries that slowly give up and go behond just re-charging. In a few weeks demand for new batteries could outstrip supply with some shops still closed. Sticking the optimate or similar on the car for a few of days may keep some of us mobile.
Good tips and worth having a routine in place. Last thing anybody needs is to have to do maintenance when we are given the all clear to ride again. Cheers TMF.
1. We don't have a road tax in the USA, we have yearly registrations. All taxes, and fees are done at once. 2. Never thought about the tire part, good advice. I have more than one bike(plus a car), so one doesn't get ridden as much as the other. 3. Again good advice keep parts lubricated.
Great stuff TMF Passed my test in February and had the bike bought before Christmas and stored at a friend's garage.. Live up the West Coast of Scotland near Gairloch... Don't mean to rub salt in the wounds guys but the roads are quiet and I'm on the route 500.. My Truimph Bobber is great fun and I'm thoroughly enjoying experience.. I hope everyone stays safe and can get out riding soon.. Thanks TMF for all your info. 👍
Good advice. Just the one bike on my drive and thankfully, living in a rural area, I've got a decent length trip to the supermarket, so mine gets a run every three or four days... It's the car which will probably have the flat battery. So glad I opted for the leather pannier on my new street Scrambler, I never realised it would get so much use!
As an essential worker I've been fortunate to be able to carry on riding using my bike to commute but a good tip if you are storing your bike is to put carpet or mats under the tyres as concrete can degrade the rubber over time. ;-)
Got 2 things to say to you. 1. Heated Grips 2. Gerbing. Heated grips alone help, but don’t solve the problem, combined with heated gloves they are life changing, add a heated jacket liner and you are completely comfortable all winter. It’s a no going back thing though, once you’ve had heated gear you can’t live without it.
Thanks TMF for keeping up the videos. This is hard on everyone. But having some videos from my favorite vloggers is welcome entertainment and they make the isolation more bearable. I'm fortunate to have my wife at my side (both working from home). And she's even learned to appreciate moto-vlogging a little! I've turned her on to you and your cohorts across the pond; Richy, Bruce, Lamb Chop, Itchy, and, probably most of all, BBB (you know who I mean).
Don't start the engines unless you are going to ride the bike. This does more harm than good, engines start rich which can mean fuel being blown past rings into the oil and also causing excessive moisture in the exhaust where it can cause rot. Most engine wear occurs on start up and in the period before the oil is hot. Cheers.
Which is why I said to run them for 15 minutes until the engine cases are properly hot - like I said this is just what I do, I'm no expert though and I'm sure we all have our favorite regimes...thanks for watching!
In the manual for the R1200 LC there is a warning about this. "Do not allow the engine to idle unnecessarily" and " Ride away immediately after starting the engine"
andy coomber there has always been two schools of thought on this but I agree with all you said. When spark plugs were easy to get at I used to remove them and squirt a drop of engine oil down the bores.
But do remember that even petrol does go off, the octane rating declines over time making starting sometimes problematic. First thing I do with a poor starter is fresh fuel.
The man cave is looking rammed these days! Good advice as ever TMF. I run dehumidifiers in my garages as well (cars and bikes stored..all on various sizes of optimates) which don't cost much to run and keeps the moisture levels low. The other reason to run your engines (I run the cars up to full operating temp) is to evaporate any moisture that can accumulate/condense in the oil. I'm itching to get out, as have a new (to me) bike which I have just fitted crash bobbins/protection to and will fit a sat nave when the ram mount arrives...but as you say, we all need to do our part. It will be so much sweeter when we can go out and your conscience is clear. Maybe a classic bike is an idea...tax free if old enough!
If it’s a single cylinder, I leave the engine at top dead centre, as then the valves are closed and the valve springs not compressed. Also damp air can’t get in the rust the cylinder liner, if it’s cast iron.
My machines are laid up for 5 months of the year in an unheated garage where the temp can reach more than -35c. My top 5 tips: Fill the tank to the brim and add fuel stabilizer at the petrol station so it has time to circulate through the fuel system on the ride home. While the engine is still warm change the oil and filter. Check tire pressure and get the tires up off the concrete floor by whatever means you can. Connect intelligent battery charger ( a fully charged battery won't freeze until about -90C ). Check the coolant with a hydrometer ( I make sure the mix is good for at least -50C ). Cover the bike with something that will keep the dust off but doesn't trap moisture ( I use an old bedsheet). DO NOT be tempted to start the engine periodically. In the climate we have there is no way you can get the engine up to operating temperature just by letting it idle. All you're doing is introducing moisture into the engine and exhaust system.
Good advice. I do use fuel stabilizer though, if the tank isn't brimming their is a risk of condensation, with obvious detrimental effects. And it would also play havoc with internal tank fuel pumps. Happy travels when we are allowed..
Good stuff mine has been completely cleaned and polished, chain lubed and put on paddock stands. Tires need doing but will have to remove the battery for charging, as live in a terraced house and the garage is 50 meters away and has NO electrics Bummer . Stay safe
I know this is an older video, but still quite useful. I love the idea of the list of tire pressures now that I now have the more-than-one-bike problem😉
Nicely done TMF although I don't fancy the 3-6 months prediction as realistic as it may be. The TMF garage looks like a sales showroom, there will be many an envious viewer, including me!
Well it has had a thorough clean up since the lock down - there's nothing in there now I don't need and use on a regular basis...very cathartic exercise...
Good advice Andy👍 What I would say is that some insurance brokers do offer laid-up AD, F&T cover when bikes are off the road providing they are in a garage with a ground anchor so whilst Bennetts advice is not to cancel your insurance, that is because they don’t offer that style of cover; I’ve looked into this and was disappointed Bennetts 1) didn’t offer that option and 2) refused to waive their cancellation charge under these exceptions times. I’ll be thinking twice now of using them again sadly as I’ve always been an advocate for those guys👎😢
All good stuff Andy. I chuck an old bed sheet over my Bonnie & CBX to keep the dust off. I plan to use the bicycle for some exercise and help with the feeling of being in two wheels that I miss. Cheers, Pete
Good tips. When you pointed out your tire pressure list on the wall it gave me the idea to put a list on my phone with recommended pressures for my bikes. May come in handy on the road. I went out to check my pressures a couple of days ago and discovered the mechanic who recently installed new tires on my RC 51 hadn’t tightened up the chain adjusters on either side. I rode the bike 75 miles to get home and I guess I was fortunate nothing moved enough to cause a major issue. Regarding battery tenders, I keep mine on smart chargers, but I learned a lesson about using trickle chargers. If you have a weak battery, it may appear fully charged. But if you stop and try to restart the bike, the weak battery may let you down. If I have a questionable battery, I leave it off the charger for awhile and try to start the bike. That way if it is bad I learn it in the garage, not down the road somewhere.
Hey, no 'hope yr well' after 'hey kids, Misseden flyer here' Awwww missed that bit. Thanks for yr great vids, so glad u have loads of stuff still in the can. Since we've less to do were going through all our favourite vloggers like anything. If anything yr views should spike I believe.
That would be nice but counter intuitively that doesn't seem to be the case on individual new videos although overall views are up (sadly revenues are down by a much larger proportion though due, I assume, to less advertisers spending money)....
I always make sure I top the tank right up to prevent condensation, and add fuel stabilizer to stop the petrol from going off. I use Stabil Storage fuel additive, I also give the brakes a pump to keep the calipers moving.
Yes topping the tank up is a great tip - not so much need for fuel stabilisers here in the UK but certainly wouldn’t do any harm if concerned - thanks for the tips!
I've personally never had an issue with petrol that is months and months old....I think modern day petrol is a different beast to that which was sold 20 years ago....like I say, can't do any harm though if you want to add your own additives....
@@kwak1k The advice from the big oil companies is that petrol has a 3 month shelf life before it starts to degrade. But I'm pretty sure it would be fine to run after a year but with reduced octane performance. Best to top it up with a mix of fresh petrol to be safe.
@@tcpiptv I just add stabilizer to be safe. Don't want my carbs varnished up or jets blocked. Il stick to what I've always done. It's more like 3weeks before it starts to absorb moisture due to the high ethanol content in modern petrol. If you want to keep it longer it has to be kept in an air tight container, which as we know a motorcycle tank is not. Or add stabilizer.
Fuel stabilisers are a good idea too! E15 fuel attracts moisture that separates from the ethanol. When this happens, a layer of water and alcohol is created at the bottom of your fuel tank
Love seeing all those bikes. We have 3 in the single garage for now but have fitted up to 5 which is always good to know 😜 We SORN’d the wife’s Honda Rebel also and dropped the insurance from fully comp to TPFT. I’ve kept the other two of mine on the road for the commute. Just took ours out of the garage and done some of the things you mentioned here but there were some bits I hadn’t considered so thank you for that mate! Stay safe.
Enjoying the maintenance and cleaning regime whilst on lockdown, hadn't considered SORN but as have three bikes maybe I should do. Joining the Triumph Street triple club bike reserved for end of lockdown, 2 year old 765rs with Yoshi can, can't wait. Cheers Andy stay safe.
Since you have six bikes and (probably) some time on your hands here's a little challenge for you ;-) All motorcycles come with a tool kit. Using ONLY the tools that come with each bike how well can you service/maintain that bike? The use of any other tools is forbidden though you can use any oils, lubricants, or cleaning agents as applicable. Here are some maintenance tasks you may like to attempt: 1) Replace headlight, indicator, and tail light bulbs. 2) Change oil and oil filter. 3) Clean the air filter. 4) Clean and adjust the chain. 5) Adjust control cables. 6) Clean and service brakes. 7) Change spark plug(s). 8) Change a tyre. These are only suggestions and I'm sure you'll think of others to add to the list. I think it would make a fascinating subject for a video.
@@TheMissendenFlyer That's your next six videos sorted ;-) You could call the series "The Tool Kit Challenge". If it proves popular you could do more in the future when you have access to other bikes. To the best of my (admittedly limited) knowledge no-one has tackled this subject in any depth... A couple of questions I would like you to consider: Is the tool kit that is supplied with an expensive bike any better than the one that comes with a cheap bike? Does the tool kit supplied with an adventure bike allow you to perform more tasks than one on, say, a sports or commuter bike?
Good stuff Andy, it doesn't normally apply to your bikes but generally I would advise giving the bike a thorough clean to be sure there is no gunge which will cause the bike to rust or corrode. Clean, lube, roll and run once a week, Will keep your bike at it's absolute peak!
I find always best to raise wheels off ground when storing bikes for long periods this prevents tyres getting flat spots everything else in your vid I do myself
With ANY internal combustion engine that is not being operated for a prolonged period of time I highly recommend a protective fuel additive that added to the fuel and fully run............, will protect the entire system, rendering the fuel stabilized throughout so as to not go "south'. Untreated fuel does this and when in lines, systems is a nightmare to flush. HUGE regards to you from the states. I could really go off but will refrain. You and the family be well.......!!!!!
Hi TMF, many thanks for the tips. I have one further tip and a question/comment regarding my experience of SORN and insurance. My tip concerns the effects of long term storage on petrol, which as many people will know, has a shelf-life after which it "goes-off" due to evaporation and the effects of contaminants etc. Therefore when I lay my bike up over the winter I always fill the tank almost to the brim with fuel, to prevent any condensation and therefore rust forming inside the tank, then add a fuel stabiliser, which keeps the fuel fresh over the winter months. I use an excellent American product called "Seafoam", which I buy on ebay and can be used in petrol and diesel engines. I also put it in my lawnmower's fuel tank over the winter months. Regarding SORN and insurance, up until about 2 years ago I always used to SORN my bike over winter whilst keeping my insurance policy running. I happened to mention this in a phone conversation with my insurer (RAC Insurance at the time) who told me that what I was doing was wrong and that "normal" "on-road" policies did not apply whilst a vehicle was SORN'd, and instead I would need to take out a "laid-up" policy, which the RAC didn't offer. They suggested I would need to get in touch with a specialist laid-up insurer. All this came as a complete surprise to me....what difference should it make to an insurer whether a bike was on the road or in the garage - in fact isn't it much lower risk whilst in storage in the garage? As you can imagine I did ask plenty of questions at the time, nevertheless my insurer was quite insistent that this was the case. Ironically when I then went off and obtained a few quotes for laid-up insurance (and there weren't many companies that offered such policies) it turned out to be more expensive per annum than my on-road insurance....how can that possibly be?! In reality I would then have to cancel that laid-up policy in the spring and take out a new on-road policy...... until winter came round again. In the end I just cancelled my SORN and continued with my RAC insurance policy, rather than have two policies to deal with every year, together with the relevant cancellation charges. I don't know whether this only applied to my RAC policy, although at the time the customer service person said that it would apply to all policies, but it is definitely something to be aware of and maybe clarify with your own insurer before declaring SORN on your bike. Are there any insurance experts reading this who can clarify the issue for us?
Some very good points there David......didn't know about the SORN and the insurance thing. Seems another "small print" clause of NOT having to pay out!
Further to my comment regarding insurance and SORN, I posted a question about the issue on the Honest John website and got the following helpful reply: "An Existing Motor insurance policy will cover a vehicle whilst parked up. As you have said, if anything the risk is less to the insurer and you are "overinsured". There is no need to put on layup cover. ( the same would apply if you went on holiday for a prolonged period of time). Since the enforcement of Continuous insurance a vehicle is either "sorned" and you can cancel insurance, or "on the road" and you need to insure. There is nothing I know or I am aware of stated via the Association of British insurers that it is "mandatory" to cancel a policy providing a more comprehensive level of cover for a lesser one." So it looks like I may have been given duff information by my insurer at the time and it is OK to keep your existing policy running after having declared SORN. Good news!
Number one tip is definitely to start from time to time to charge the battery & keep the engine oil circulating. Bikes should come with removable kick starters. (For when your battery goes flat)
Hi I was advised many years ago not start the engine and let it idle as this creates a lot of excessive wear as the engine takes a lot longer to warm up etc. ? I thought always best to get it moving to warm up quicker ,is this just old advice that can be ignored on modern engines? I have an Royal Enfield GT650 so would like to fire it up occasionally and let it run if I can. ?
@Michael Hi Michael Thanks for your comments and yes I will fire it up and let run for a bit as I'm equally concerned about leaving it standing to long too. I normally ride all year round so it's never been sitting for more than a week and it will be good to get the oil circulating a bit and to burn off old fuel too. Plus hopefully modern engine tolerances are much better than in the past so wear should be minimal even on an air cooled engine.
Thanks TMF I take the same view as you about riding at present. The virus took my dad earlier this week, and he became one of the stats. There will be plenty of time, when this is over, to get those rides in. Plenty of time at present to watch You tube, so thanks for the content as always.
Did not know you paid road tax in the UK in canada only tractor trailer pay road tax.3 to 6 month wow it's a long time but under these hard time it's surely the way to be still enjoy your videos and be safe during these hard time .Pat from Cornwall Ontario canada
I just finished a fun ride here in the states on my motorcycle. It's one of the safest things you can do during this pandemic especially since the traffic is low. I'm more protected with my full face helmet and full leather gear then most people driving cars with their windows down.
But if you come off you’ll need scarce medical resources - that’s why I choose not to ride at the moment (that plus we’re only allowed away from home for essential journeys). Good luck!
@@TheMissendenFlyer We too are only allowed to travel for essentials. I rode past several police cars yesterday and they didn't even look at me. They don't care about people out riding motorcycles for fun. I also rode past one of our newest and largest local hospitals. Not many cars in the parking lot. They recently laid off a bunch of healthcare workers since they have no customers. They plan to restart elective surgeries soon to get customers. If you don't crash your motorcycle then you won't drain any resources. I rode safely yesterday.
Good advice but I use fuel stabiliser as well to stop the fuel going bad in the carbs, and my classic bike has a kickstart so I can kick it over with ignition on and kill switch off a couple of times until Oil light goes out that way I know the Engine is lubricated with out worrying about condensation in the Engine, at the same time I pull in the clutch and give it a kick to prevent it sticking and get some oil between the plates. Cheers mate good video say safe Martin ⚙️🔩🔧👍
Here in Seattle, WA USA we are allowed to go outside for essential trips and exercise - I use my motorbike for essential travel whenever possible and yes, the route to the market is often circuitous! Trying to stay sane in these trying times.
TheMissendenFlyer - Agree with that - riding highly defensively as I always do and doing best to stay out of harms way. In no way do I want to burden the healthcare system.
Left my CRF Rally without moving it for 8/9 months (through winter last year) and she started up 1st time! If it was any other bike bar a Honda it would've been a dead battery for sure. I've owned every other type of bike including Harleys & Triumphs and they'll suffer without a charge if left for long periods of time
Use a dehumidifier if you store bikes in a garage without heating. Mine expels a litre of water per day during winter and keeps my bikes completely free from rust spots on fixings. It’s great for switchgear too.
@@TheMissendenFlyer I have a cedar wood garage holding two bikes. With an office humidifier set to 60%RH it keeps the windows clear of condensation. Not perfect I guess, but tools and lathe etc don't rust and cardboard stays dry.
Hi TMF , I watch a channel called The Smoaks Vlogs . Shawn is a BMW tech ,and while doing work on a K1600 gearbox recall he shows what idling without a trip can do to an engine during storage. Just thought it may be of interest to you and others .Vlog 1627 is the one to watch .In an earlier vlog there was more of the mess shown .
Great video as always. I remember some time ago you were on a weight loss regimen. I recently did the same as my motorcycle gear was getting tight. The thought of replacing it and the expense was part of my reason. I cleaned up my diet and lost two stone since last October and feel so much better on the bike. We are always looking at weights of motorcycles and there are loads of videos on how to make you bike lighten. Most are expensive. My question is, how about a video on your experience and tips on how you lost the weight and highlighting the advantages for riding in general?Sorry for the long question.
No worries - and yes I had thought of that (a few others requested it) but I’m not sure if it would come across as a bit preachy or big headed (as I’ve done it and it wasn’t easy)...good point though, my bikes are noticeably quicker with the lighter me on board...
I'd like to hear how you managed to lose weight. I'm nearly the weight of two people😊, 19+ stone. Bike does cope surprisingly well though, but I need to shift a bit of excess weight.
Well done Andrew & TMF.........weight loss is very good thing to do, however keeping it from going back on is even harder! I notice TMF has kept it off and normally requires a "life style" change to do this?!
Iain Ian thank you.. I find it more rewarding to keep it off than going back to old ways. As well as benefits previously mentioned, I sleep better, have better immunity and feel better first thing in the morning. I didn’t find it too hard as I just changed what I ate but, still had large portions. I gave up alcohol, bread and sweets/sugary desserts. Also a bit more exercise.
I totally agree with starting the bike every so often...done it for years. Some people say including a certain guy on utube that says its a bad idea because of moisture build up! Disagree starting the bike is the way.
Unlucky you. We can go outside if we keep our distance and don’t form groups of more than three. Therefore I did my first ride this year, 180km. That was too long for a first ride. Everything hurts especially my bottom parts. The coming long Easter weekend, I will stay at home because there’s a chance a lot of people will want to go outside the house. Good tip for sticky plastic buttons 👍🏼 I never load my batteries during winter except when I cannot ride them for more then two months in combination with several freezing nights. Normally I ride my bike every few weeks all year round. This year I didn’t because of the bad weather during the first months of this year. Ride safe, I hope you can soon and keep healthy.
I'm just about to move my bike, (going to just ride back and forth on the drive for a bit). I have put a cable tie around the spoke nearest the spot on the floor, so I know where it was in contact before. Hopefully lock down will be over before I run out of spokes 😅😅😅
Only just watched this as it's now winter. Some really good tips that I realise I should be doing. First I need to replace my battery. Have you ever done a comparison of the different types, lead acid, AGM, gel and lithium?
I'm surprised I'm doing all of them, including the wheels off the ground. I've SORN'ed my bike too, but keep the insurance going. Thanks for the tip about the sticky buttons I've got an old K1200LT and the highbeam button sticks, it does work eventually...I shall be following your advise on that. Thanks! :-)
I have looked at it but personally don't bother here in the UK as I think our fuel is pretty good quality - not everyone agrees with me though as you'll see if you look through the comments here...
Id suggest some form of house for a mouse stopper ( Exhaust Bung ) Also they work great for when your washing your bike especially if a pressure washer is used as it keeps the moisture out the way )
Very good points Andy and well explained. Just to say, when you’re moving the bike, snake it around a little bit, don’t just move it backwards and forwards, otherwise everything ends up back in the same place. Another good tip, especially now, (if you’re capable) is to renew all your fluids if they haven’t been done recently. Saves a fortune in future costs at the dealer and most people DO have the time at the moment. Finally, and more importantly, for bikes out of MOT, your bike still needs to be in roadworthy condition if you do still need to ride it. Insurance companies normally do what they can to wiggle out of paying up so make sure you’re bike is ‘doubly’ road worthy! Look online at what’s checked during an MOT and check out what you can yourself (which to be fair you should be doing every year).
If you're SORNing your steed you could look into getting laid-up insurance (if available) covering just fire and theft too. Oh, and buy a Li-ion battery booster just in case. And check it on a regular basis to make sure it's charged (usw).
Good one. In extreme cold countries it's probably best not to run them every now and again as the oil goes like treacle. May be put a lock and chain on them too.
Some insurance companies do say the bike needs to be taxed for the insurance to be valid though. So to SORN it might invalidate your insurance. Always worth checking
Keep insurance going? Sure, just hold my brew while I shit some cash out for said insurance. 😉😂 I'm sleeping in my garage till this is over..no-one is getting my bike. Cheers for the vid👍
Sound advice as usual. For a premium bike I found the switchgear on my BMW to be a bit pants, had 3 R/H switch cubes under warranty), great bikes though. I am lucky enough to still be working, I leave for work at 0530 and from a selfish point of view the riding has never been better, 6 miles of Essex back roads the other morning with no vehicles on my side at all. I only ride to and from work, but am wondering that apart from the slight risk of added burden to the NHS if you fall off whether riding your bike is such a bad thing, it’s certainly doing wonders for my personal wellbeing.
Well indeed but the rules are the rules - if you have to ride the bike for work then fair enough it's a bonus, but going out for a joy ride isn't (in my view) in the spirit of "Stay at home, help the NHS, save lives"
TheMissendenFlyer yeah. As I said I’m only doing the essential ride. But you have to admit, this weather, your neck of the woods and traffic levels from 50 years ago.... tempting. Your right of course, whether there’s any harm in it or not, we have to set an example and pull together, millions of little gestures add up. Aside from working, my 3D printers are going flat out printing face masks, not much, but something. Keep up the good work, vloggers are keeping many housebound people sane at the moment.
You don't need to start the bike up every month or so if your only going to "warm it up". The oil will still be where you left it in all parts of the engine - engine design corrected for this many years ago with tertiary gullies and hold wells to ensure critical parts don't start dry. If you don't let the entire engine warm up (done by using the gear box / actually riding it) then your engine it only being warned up around the top end and doing this to often will cause uneven expansion which is undesirable in any engine. If your going to start it, ride it. Another issue is moisture build up in the engine from starting in the cold for only short periods as it isn't cooked away. Moisture build up will occur when the bike cools back down after only a short warm up. Starting the bike for only 5-10 minutes every couple of months is probably the worst thing you can do and will cause corrosion inside the combustion chamber. If your not going to use the bike for some time, lay it up. This means emptying the fuel tank and running it out and drain the bowl if its got carbs. The tires and flat spot issue can be avoided by buying good tires as the only tires that do this are cheap ones like low end commuter level Dunlop's. I know your trying to help but your providing out of date information that doesn't apply to modern bikes.
Hi, noticed you have a big extension reel for optimate, the real should be fully unwound if plugged in. They act like a copper winding and can overheat....IMHO
![โรงเรียนห้ามรัก โดนจับได้ตาย...!! [เอิร์นไดเม่]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/4u02Sbr556Q/mqdefault.jpg)
OK so thanks for all the comments and there are a number of recurring themes, additional hints and tips that other's have left since I posted this video, FYI they are:-
1. Consider adding a fuel additive (stabiliser) to your tank, especially in countries where petrol has a high ethanol content.
2. Clean your bike before storage and possibly cover it to stop dust.
3. Top up your tank with petrol to help stop any condensation (and rust) build up in the tank..
4. Exercise caution if warming up, but not riding, an air-cooled bike for a significant amount of time - they are designed to be cooled by airflow over the engine.
5. Consider running a dehumidifier in the garage.
All good stuff! Stay safe folks!
I'm in Canada and our winter months necessitate prolonged storage of my bikes. The one other thing I do when putting my bikes in storage is to fill the fuel tanks and use a fuel stabilizer in order to keep the fuel fresh. Cheers!
Stuart Maclean, Although not as far north only in Wisconsin but long storage times are the norm. One thing other thing I do when also storing cars is to pump the brakes every couple weeks along with exercising the hydraulic clutches if equipped.
I also put a few ounces of 2t oil in the tank to help lube carbs and keep any rubber supple. Also spray all metal, except brake rotors, with WD40 to prevent corrosion.
also a canadian, mayve fogging oil if it is going to be a really longtime.
Me too.
Great tips, one I could add is to keep your fuel tanks full to prevent any moisture and eventually rust. Stay safe all.
Yes I should have mentioned that....
But then you have a load of E5 fuel going bad (unless you put in fuel stabiliser)
But then you have a load of E5 fuel going bad (unless you put in fuel stabiliser)
@@karlosh2422 yep a good recommendation for sure. 👍
I’ve lubed , polished ,polished again ,pumped the tyres, taken my bikes apart ,put them back together ,got nothing left to do Ahhhhhhhhhhh .
Stay safe Mr Flyer, stay healthy to you and your family . 🇬🇧🏍❤️😀
And to you Jakey!
Good o'l MissendenFlyer, pumping out superb content for us to binge watch!
Thank you - glad you think so!
Keeping one on the road myself, However the others are sitting with petrol drained and carb float bowls also drained ( Older bikes ) I wont be starting them at all as it takes a good 20 mins of riding to get oil up to temperature and that's never going to happen on the drive. It takes long runs to prevent moisture accumulating in the oil, just warming up the engine will do more harm than good.
If this goes on much longer we’ll be seeing TMF teaches Irish dancing or how to get the perfect hedge.
That would be fantastic,can't wait
I am known for my dancing prowess after all....
I'm in for this!!! :D
My wife has the perfect hedge...
I bet he has an impressive topiary.....
Hi TMF, I would caution against starting and warming a bike up, like you do. More wear will occur in a cold engine, and engines not driving (under no load) the bike take much longer to properly warm to disperse condensation. The same is doubly true of the exhaust, which again can suffer from corrosion due to regular start ups. Leave the engine un-stated, and if you are really worried when you do eventually start the bike, in the old days you'd whip the plugs out put a drip of oil in each cylinder and gently turn it over by hand with no compression. But on modern bikes you really are not going to suffer for a few months without running it.
After all how long do new and used bikes sit in storage and dealers stock before being sold. Sometimes it's not months, its years! If you don't believe me look what happened when Euro4 came into force- loads of 'old' new bikes had to be registered.
The rest is all good stuff though.
Going nowhere with you!
Agree, you’ll emulsify the oil and moisture. Heating and cooling will breathe damp air in and out the cases adding to the problem you’re trying to avoid...
Robert, that's also what I've been told: don't start it unless you can ride it a few miles.
“Keep your insurance going” yes, we wouldn’t want our good friends in the insurance industry losing out! I’ve lost count on the amount of good gestures they’ve done for me over the years!!!
Mmmm, I think TMF’s point is a fair one, the last thing anyone needs is to wake up your pride and joys has been taken and for the sake of a months premium you were not covered? Anyway each to his or her own I guess...
Mark Lewis yes, it’s not a dig at TMF, he’s correct in what he’s saying... I’m just having a little dig at all the insurance companies out there who in my opinion, take the piss!
@@PillSharks Yes maybe they could follow the governments lead on Sorn-ing your cover until you want to use the remaining months or extending everyones current cover by 6 months like MOT's.
- I've found with insurance companies, that if you remind their employees that they work for little more than a glorified betting shop, they either begin to talk sense & adjust the premium to suit . . . or hang up.
eg. 'As it's Sorned, it's no longer a road vehicle & can be included in the household cover - yes?' . . .'Click' : )
If your garage is not clean enough to eat of the floor like Andy’s, a dust cover is a good idea. Also if possible try to get the lowest ethanol content fuel you can and add a good fuel stabilizer. Top up your fuel tank to leave minimal room for condensation. If you have vintage bikes like I do with carbs drain them, especially if you have to store the bike with gasoline that has ethanol. Unfortunately here in Canada long term bike storage is an annual ritual. Stay safe and help flatten the curve so we can get gasket out there.
Brilliant, Andy. I appreciate how responsible you’re being in regards to his wretched COVID-19 pandemic - good stuff 👍🏻
Cheers!
Every bikers dream .... haven’t got room to move in the garage, due to the number of bikes. Love it 🍻
By the way, your chat with Bruce, top quality entertainment. Had to break in to two parts, but, excellent from start to finish.
Thank you!
Glad to hear you are one of many who accept,the stay at home message✌️
Hi TMF. As a lot of us are also car owners its worth mentioning to keep car battery maintenance in our minds. There will be many car batteries, on cars a few years old, that are past their best but are fine when used regularly. With the fewer and less distance journeys most people are doing there will be many batteries that slowly give up and go behond just re-charging. In a few weeks demand for new batteries could outstrip supply with some shops still closed. Sticking the optimate or similar on the car for a few of days may keep some of us mobile.
Good tips and worth having a routine in place. Last thing anybody needs is to have to do maintenance when we are given the all clear to ride again. Cheers TMF.
1. We don't have a road tax in the USA, we have yearly registrations. All taxes, and fees are done at once.
2. Never thought about the tire part, good advice. I have more than one bike(plus a car), so one doesn't get ridden as much as the other.
3. Again good advice keep parts lubricated.
Great stuff TMF
Passed my test in February and had the bike bought before Christmas and stored at a friend's garage..
Live up the West Coast of Scotland near Gairloch...
Don't mean to rub salt in the wounds guys but the roads are quiet and I'm on the route 500..
My Truimph Bobber is great fun and I'm thoroughly enjoying experience..
I hope everyone stays safe and can get out riding soon..
Thanks TMF for all your info. 👍
Welcome to biking Andrew! Stay safe....
Good advice. Just the one bike on my drive and thankfully, living in a rural area, I've got a decent length trip to the supermarket, so mine gets a run every three or four days... It's the car which will probably have the flat battery. So glad I opted for the leather pannier on my new street Scrambler, I never realised it would get so much use!
As an essential worker I've been fortunate to be able to carry on riding using my bike to commute but a good tip if you are storing your bike is to put carpet or mats under the tyres as concrete can degrade the rubber over time. ;-)
Not an issue with modern rubber technology. I still do it, simply out of habit.
The joys of commuting on my bike is I get to ride it in this sunshine we’re having. I deserve it after freezing my nuts off all winter!
Got 2 things to say to you. 1. Heated Grips 2. Gerbing. Heated grips alone help, but don’t solve the problem, combined with heated gloves they are life changing, add a heated jacket liner and you are completely comfortable all winter. It’s a no going back thing though, once you’ve had heated gear you can’t live without it.
Thanks TMF for keeping up the videos. This is hard on everyone. But having some videos from my favorite vloggers is welcome entertainment and they make the isolation more bearable. I'm fortunate to have my wife at my side (both working from home). And she's even learned to appreciate moto-vlogging a little! I've turned her on to you and your cohorts across the pond; Richy, Bruce, Lamb Chop, Itchy, and, probably most of all, BBB (you know who I mean).
Del Boy's Garage is pretty good too.
Top Tips 👍🏻 Hope you and the family are all safe & well.
Don't start the engines unless you are going to ride the bike. This does more harm than good, engines start rich which can mean fuel being blown past rings into the oil and also causing excessive moisture in the exhaust where it can cause rot. Most engine wear occurs on start up and in the period before the oil is hot. Cheers.
that's right
Which is why I said to run them for 15 minutes until the engine cases are properly hot - like I said this is just what I do, I'm no expert though and I'm sure we all have our favorite regimes...thanks for watching!
In the manual for the R1200 LC there is a warning about this. "Do not allow the engine to idle unnecessarily" and " Ride away immediately after starting the engine"
I’ve also heard cases of condensation collecting in the oil when starting repeatedly without riding, turning the oil into a white creamy muck.
andy coomber there has always been two schools of thought on this but I agree with all you said. When spark plugs were easy to get at I used to remove them and squirt a drop of engine oil down the bores.
1 thing I forgot to add keep your tank full to brim this stop rust forming inside tank especially if storing in a shed or damp garage
Yes I meant to mention that one, several others have....
But do remember that even petrol does go off, the octane rating declines over time making starting sometimes problematic. First thing I do with a poor starter is fresh fuel.
The man cave is looking rammed these days! Good advice as ever TMF. I run dehumidifiers in my garages as well (cars and bikes stored..all on various sizes of optimates) which don't cost much to run and keeps the moisture levels low. The other reason to run your engines (I run the cars up to full operating temp) is to evaporate any moisture that can accumulate/condense in the oil. I'm itching to get out, as have a new (to me) bike which I have just fitted crash bobbins/protection to and will fit a sat nave when the ram mount arrives...but as you say, we all need to do our part. It will be so much sweeter when we can go out and your conscience is clear. Maybe a classic bike is an idea...tax free if old enough!
Great idea Vernon!
I admire you maintaining that many bikes TMF. Stay well!
Good tips TMF. I keep my bike at a mates garage so at the moment I have no access to it but my mate looks after it well.
If it’s a single cylinder, I leave the engine at top dead centre, as then the valves are closed and the valve springs not compressed. Also damp air can’t get in the rust the cylinder liner, if it’s cast iron.
Good tip!
Very good tip, didn't think of that.
Thanks for taking the time to entertain us all. Keep up the good work and stay safe, Cheers.
Thanks Alan, you too....
My machines are laid up for 5 months of the year in an unheated garage where the temp can reach more than -35c. My top 5 tips: Fill the tank to the brim and add fuel stabilizer at the petrol station so it has time to circulate through the fuel system on the ride home. While the engine is still warm change the oil and filter. Check tire pressure and get the tires up off the concrete floor by whatever means you can. Connect intelligent battery charger ( a fully charged battery won't freeze until about -90C ). Check the coolant with a hydrometer ( I make sure the mix is good for at least -50C ). Cover the bike with something that will keep the dust off but doesn't trap moisture ( I use an old bedsheet). DO NOT be tempted to start the engine periodically. In the climate we have there is no way you can get the engine up to operating temperature just by letting it idle. All you're doing is introducing moisture into the engine and exhaust system.
Good tips especially the SORN one, thanks Andy and stay safe 😷
Good advice.
I do use fuel stabilizer though, if the tank isn't brimming their is a risk of condensation, with obvious detrimental effects. And it would also play havoc with internal tank fuel pumps.
Happy travels when we are allowed..
Good stuff mine has been completely cleaned and polished, chain lubed and put on paddock stands. Tires need doing but will have to remove the battery for charging, as live in a terraced house and the garage is 50 meters away and has NO electrics Bummer . Stay safe
I feel your pain....
I know this is an older video, but still quite useful. I love the idea of the list of tire pressures now that I now have the more-than-one-bike problem😉
Yes very handy that is...
Very useful can't wait to get back out on the bike when this is over
You and me both!
Some great tips TMF. Never considered the flattening of tyres 👍. Thanks!
You need a bigger Garage Andy, good video, stay at home, protect the NHS, save lives.
Yep!
Nicely done TMF although I don't fancy the 3-6 months prediction as realistic as it may be. The TMF garage looks like a sales showroom, there will be many an envious viewer, including me!
Well it has had a thorough clean up since the lock down - there's nothing in there now I don't need and use on a regular basis...very cathartic exercise...
Nooo sorn the GS & keep the CRF just in case 😉 as a key worker I can go to work on my CRF so lucky that way.
Cheers to you for your COVID consideration and leading by example by NOT riding ! You da man
Good advice Andy👍 What I would say is that some insurance brokers do offer laid-up AD, F&T cover when bikes are off the road providing they are in a garage with a ground anchor so whilst Bennetts advice is not to cancel your insurance, that is because they don’t offer that style of cover; I’ve looked into this and was disappointed Bennetts 1) didn’t offer that option and 2) refused to waive their cancellation charge under these exceptions times. I’ll be thinking twice now of using them again sadly as I’ve always been an advocate for those guys👎😢
Oh dear!
All good stuff Andy. I chuck an old bed sheet over my Bonnie & CBX to keep the dust off. I plan to use the bicycle for some exercise and help with the feeling of being in two wheels that I miss. Cheers, Pete
Good tips both Pete!
Had a go on an electric mountain bike the other week.Cracking bits of kit.
Bit less risk,and like you said that feeling...
Good tips. When you pointed out your tire pressure list on the wall it gave me the idea to put a list on my phone with recommended pressures for my bikes. May come in handy on the road. I went out to check my pressures a couple of days ago and discovered the mechanic who recently installed new tires on my RC 51 hadn’t tightened up the chain adjusters on either side. I rode the bike 75 miles to get home and I guess I was fortunate nothing moved enough to cause a major issue. Regarding battery tenders, I keep mine on smart chargers, but I learned a lesson about using trickle chargers. If you have a weak battery, it may appear fully charged. But if you stop and try to restart the bike, the weak battery may let you down. If I have a questionable battery, I leave it off the charger for awhile and try to start the bike. That way if it is bad I learn it in the garage, not down the road somewhere.
...yes I have that list on my phone too (sad isn't it!)...
You did not mention that the MOT is not required for the next 6 months if it was due, keep up the good work Andy.
Beautiful bikes.
Did my DIY oil and filter change yesterday.easy peasy,except I was overfilling and it was running nicely all over the bike......
We’ve all been there!
Hey, no 'hope yr well' after 'hey kids, Misseden flyer here' Awwww missed that bit. Thanks for yr great vids, so glad u have loads of stuff still in the can. Since we've less to do were going through all our favourite vloggers like anything. If anything yr views should spike I believe.
That would be nice but counter intuitively that doesn't seem to be the case on individual new videos although overall views are up (sadly revenues are down by a much larger proportion though due, I assume, to less advertisers spending money)....
I always make sure I top the tank right up to prevent condensation, and add fuel stabilizer to stop the petrol from going off.
I use Stabil Storage fuel additive,
I also give the brakes a pump to keep the calipers moving.
Yes topping the tank up is a great tip - not so much need for fuel stabilisers here in the UK but certainly wouldn’t do any harm if concerned - thanks for the tips!
@@TheMissendenFlyer I live in the UK. Modern petrol starts to go off after about a month and can cause poor running if left too long. Best to be safe.
I've personally never had an issue with petrol that is months and months old....I think modern day petrol is a different beast to that which was sold 20 years ago....like I say, can't do any harm though if you want to add your own additives....
@@kwak1k The advice from the big oil companies is that petrol has a 3 month shelf life before it starts to degrade. But I'm pretty sure it would be fine to run after a year but with reduced octane performance. Best to top it up with a mix of fresh petrol to be safe.
@@tcpiptv I just add stabilizer to be safe. Don't want my carbs varnished up or jets blocked. Il stick to what I've always done.
It's more like 3weeks before it starts to absorb moisture due to the high ethanol content in modern petrol. If you want to keep it longer it has to be kept in an air tight container, which as we know a motorcycle tank is not.
Or add stabilizer.
Great advice mate and nice to see you looking forward to my first ride out many thanks again 👍
Fuel stabilisers are a good idea too! E15 fuel attracts moisture that separates from the ethanol. When this happens, a layer of water and alcohol is created at the bottom of your fuel tank
Love seeing all those bikes. We have 3 in the single garage for now but have fitted up to 5 which is always good to know 😜
We SORN’d the wife’s Honda Rebel also and dropped the insurance from fully comp to TPFT. I’ve kept the other two of mine on the road for the commute.
Just took ours out of the garage and done some of the things you mentioned here but there were some bits I hadn’t considered so thank you for that mate! Stay safe.
Enjoying the maintenance and cleaning regime whilst on lockdown, hadn't considered SORN but as have three bikes maybe I should do. Joining the Triumph Street triple club bike reserved for end of lockdown, 2 year old 765rs with Yoshi can, can't wait. Cheers Andy stay safe.
Nice one DD - you'll love it and it will be well worth the wait!
Can't wait, test rode the 2020 rs before lockdown and the bike just made for me, simply best ride I have ever ridden. Cheers TMF
Since you have six bikes and (probably) some time on your hands here's a little challenge for you ;-)
All motorcycles come with a tool kit.
Using ONLY the tools that come with each bike how well can you service/maintain that bike?
The use of any other tools is forbidden though you can use any oils, lubricants, or cleaning agents as applicable.
Here are some maintenance tasks you may like to attempt:
1) Replace headlight, indicator, and tail light bulbs.
2) Change oil and oil filter.
3) Clean the air filter.
4) Clean and adjust the chain.
5) Adjust control cables.
6) Clean and service brakes.
7) Change spark plug(s).
8) Change a tyre.
These are only suggestions and I'm sure you'll think of others to add to the list.
I think it would make a fascinating subject for a video.
Love that idea!
@@TheMissendenFlyer That's your next six videos sorted ;-)
You could call the series "The Tool Kit Challenge".
If it proves popular you could do more in the future when you have access to other bikes.
To the best of my (admittedly limited) knowledge no-one has tackled this subject in any depth...
A couple of questions I would like you to consider:
Is the tool kit that is supplied with an expensive bike any better than the one that comes with a cheap bike?
Does the tool kit supplied with an adventure bike allow you to perform more tasks than one on, say, a sports or commuter bike?
Good stuff Andy, it doesn't normally apply to your bikes but generally I would advise giving the bike a thorough clean to be sure there is no gunge which will cause the bike to rust or corrode.
Clean, lube, roll and run once a week,
Will keep your bike at it's absolute peak!
Yes I meant to mention that - thanks for the reminder!
Yep, doing all of the above (apart from SORN), plus drained out most of the fuel and put in fuel stabiliser in what was left.
I find always best to raise wheels off ground when storing bikes for long periods this prevents tyres getting flat spots everything else in your vid I do myself
20 years ago this was a must. With modern tire technology not an issue anymore. Simply overinflate tires by 4 psi and you're good to go.
Good tips, for a sad subject.
Thanks Andy, good video. You have pricked my conscience to go round the bikes. Stay safe.
You too Bob!
With ANY internal combustion engine that is not being operated for a prolonged period of time I highly recommend a protective fuel additive that added to the fuel and fully run............, will protect the entire system, rendering the fuel stabilized throughout so as to not go "south'. Untreated fuel does this and when in lines, systems is a nightmare to flush. HUGE regards to you from the states. I could really go off but will refrain. You and the family be well.......!!!!!
Good tips there TMF, I hadn’t considered the switch gear, thank you!
Good tips and reviews...keep up the good jobb...
Hi TMF, many thanks for the tips. I have one further tip and a question/comment regarding my experience of SORN and insurance.
My tip concerns the effects of long term storage on petrol, which as many people will know, has a shelf-life after which it "goes-off" due to evaporation and the effects of contaminants etc. Therefore when I lay my bike up over the winter I always fill the tank almost to the brim with fuel, to prevent any condensation and therefore rust forming inside the tank, then add a fuel stabiliser, which keeps the fuel fresh over the winter months. I use an excellent American product called "Seafoam", which I buy on ebay and can be used in petrol and diesel engines. I also put it in my lawnmower's fuel tank over the winter months.
Regarding SORN and insurance, up until about 2 years ago I always used to SORN my bike over winter whilst keeping my insurance policy running. I happened to mention this in a phone conversation with my insurer (RAC Insurance at the time) who told me that what I was doing was wrong and that "normal" "on-road" policies did not apply whilst a vehicle was SORN'd, and instead I would need to take out a "laid-up" policy, which the RAC didn't offer. They suggested I would need to get in touch with a specialist laid-up insurer. All this came as a complete surprise to me....what difference should it make to an insurer whether a bike was on the road or in the garage - in fact isn't it much lower risk whilst in storage in the garage? As you can imagine I did ask plenty of questions at the time, nevertheless my insurer was quite insistent that this was the case. Ironically when I then went off and obtained a few quotes for laid-up insurance (and there weren't many companies that offered such policies) it turned out to be more expensive per annum than my on-road insurance....how can that possibly be?!
In reality I would then have to cancel that laid-up policy in the spring and take out a new on-road policy...... until winter came round again.
In the end I just cancelled my SORN and continued with my RAC insurance policy, rather than have two policies to deal with every year, together with the relevant cancellation charges.
I don't know whether this only applied to my RAC policy, although at the time the customer service person said that it would apply to all policies, but it is definitely something to be aware of and maybe clarify with your own insurer before declaring SORN on your bike. Are there any insurance experts reading this who can clarify the issue for us?
Some very good points there David......didn't know about the SORN and the insurance thing. Seems another "small print" clause of NOT having to pay out!
Andy's sponsors Bennett's should be able to clarify.
Yes I had no idea about this either David - when I next speak to Bennetts I’ll ask them....
@@TheMissendenFlyer Thanks.....could you let me and others know what they say please.....cheers.
Further to my comment regarding insurance and SORN, I posted a question about the issue on the Honest John website and got the following helpful reply:
"An Existing Motor insurance policy will cover a vehicle whilst parked up. As you have said, if anything the risk is less to the insurer and you are "overinsured". There is no need to put on layup cover. ( the same would apply if you went on holiday for a prolonged period of time). Since the enforcement of Continuous insurance a vehicle is either "sorned" and you can cancel insurance, or "on the road" and you need to insure. There is nothing I know or I am aware of stated via the Association of British insurers that it is "mandatory" to cancel a policy providing a more comprehensive level of cover for a lesser one."
So it looks like I may have been given duff information by my insurer at the time and it is OK to keep your existing policy running after having declared SORN.
Good news!
Number one tip is definitely to start from time to time to charge the battery & keep the engine oil circulating. Bikes should come with removable kick starters. (For when your battery goes flat)
Wouldn't that be cool....
Hi I was advised many years ago not start the engine and let it idle as this creates a lot of excessive wear as the engine takes a lot longer to warm up etc. ? I thought always best to get it moving to warm up quicker ,is this just old advice that can be ignored on modern engines? I have an Royal Enfield GT650 so would like to fire it up occasionally and let it run if I can. ?
@Michael Hi Michael Thanks for your comments and yes I will fire it up and let run for a bit as I'm equally concerned about leaving it standing to long too. I normally ride all year round so it's never been sitting for more than a week and it will be good to get the oil circulating a bit and to burn off old fuel too. Plus hopefully modern engine tolerances are much better than in the past so wear should be minimal even on an air cooled engine.
Thanks TMF I take the same view as you about riding at present. The virus took my dad earlier this week, and he became one of the stats. There will be plenty of time, when this is over, to get those rides in. Plenty of time at present to watch You tube, so thanks for the content as always.
Oh Kevin so sorry to hear that......best wishes to you and your family....
Did not know you paid road tax in the UK in canada only tractor trailer pay road tax.3 to 6 month wow it's a long time but under these hard time it's surely the way to be still enjoy your videos and be safe during these hard time .Pat from Cornwall Ontario canada
I just finished a fun ride here in the states on my motorcycle. It's one of the safest things you can do during this pandemic especially since the traffic is low. I'm more protected with my full face helmet and full leather gear then most people driving cars with their windows down.
But if you come off you’ll need scarce medical resources - that’s why I choose not to ride at the moment (that plus we’re only allowed away from home for essential journeys). Good luck!
@@TheMissendenFlyer We too are only allowed to travel for essentials. I rode past several police cars yesterday and they didn't even look at me. They don't care about people out riding motorcycles for fun. I also rode past one of our newest and largest local hospitals. Not many cars in the parking lot. They recently laid off a bunch of healthcare workers since they have no customers. They plan to restart elective surgeries soon to get customers. If you don't crash your motorcycle then you won't drain any resources. I rode safely yesterday.
Great vid, thanks for the tips. Have posted on my IAM group's forum.
Your vids are always informative and well presented keep it up
Thank you Andrew - I appreciate the kind words!
Good advice but I use fuel stabiliser as well to stop the fuel going bad in the carbs, and my classic bike has a kickstart so I can kick it over with ignition on and kill switch off a couple of times until Oil light goes out that way I know the Engine is lubricated with out worrying about condensation in the Engine, at the same time I pull in the clutch and give it a kick to prevent it sticking and get some oil between the plates.
Cheers mate good video say safe Martin ⚙️🔩🔧👍
My God man you must be pretty rich not just the bikes all your riding equipment behind you lol I like your videos pal you have a lot of knowledge
Thanks....and “rich” is a relative term!
Here in Seattle, WA USA we are allowed to go outside for essential trips and exercise - I use my motorbike for essential travel whenever possible and yes, the route to the market is often circuitous! Trying to stay sane in these trying times.
I get that, the issue is tying up already stretched medical resources if you have an off....
TheMissendenFlyer - Agree with that - riding highly defensively as I always do and doing best to stay out of harms way. In no way do I want to burden the healthcare system.
Left my CRF Rally without moving it for 8/9 months (through winter last year) and she started up 1st time! If it was any other bike bar a Honda it would've been a dead battery for sure. I've owned every other type of bike including Harleys & Triumphs and they'll suffer without a charge if left for long periods of time
Yes I have to say my CRF is similarly bullet proof....
Fuel stabilized and full tank to keep rust away, dust cover over bike for winter storage
Use a dehumidifier if you store bikes in a garage without heating. Mine expels a litre of water per day during winter and keeps my bikes completely free from rust spots on fixings. It’s great for switchgear too.
Yes great tip - assuming your garage is relatively airtight....
@@TheMissendenFlyer I have a cedar wood garage holding two bikes. With an office humidifier set to 60%RH it keeps the windows clear of condensation. Not perfect I guess, but tools and lathe etc don't rust and cardboard stays dry.
I think a Garage Tour would be awesome... possibly the best ManCave I've ever seen.
Hi TMF , I watch a channel called The Smoaks Vlogs . Shawn is a BMW tech ,and while doing work on a K1600 gearbox recall he shows what idling without a trip can do to an engine during storage.
Just thought it may be of interest to you and others .Vlog 1627 is the one to watch .In an earlier vlog
there was more of the mess shown .
Great video as always. I remember some time ago you were on a weight loss regimen. I recently did the same as my motorcycle gear was getting tight. The thought of replacing it and the expense was part of my reason. I cleaned up my diet and lost two stone since last October and feel so much better on the bike. We are always looking at weights of motorcycles and there are loads of videos on how to make you bike lighten. Most are expensive. My question is, how about a video on your experience and tips on how you lost the weight and highlighting the advantages for riding in general?Sorry for the long question.
No worries - and yes I had thought of that (a few others requested it) but I’m not sure if it would come across as a bit preachy or big headed (as I’ve done it and it wasn’t easy)...good point though, my bikes are noticeably quicker with the lighter me on board...
I'd like to hear how you managed to lose weight.
I'm nearly the weight of two people😊, 19+ stone. Bike does cope surprisingly well though, but I need to shift a bit of excess weight.
...OK maybe I'll reconsider then!
Well done Andrew & TMF.........weight loss is very good thing to do, however keeping it from going back on is even harder!
I notice TMF has kept it off and normally requires a "life style" change to do this?!
Iain Ian thank you.. I find it more rewarding to keep it off than going back to old ways. As well as benefits previously mentioned, I sleep better, have better immunity and feel better first thing in the morning. I didn’t find it too hard as I just changed what I ate but, still had large portions. I gave up alcohol, bread and sweets/sugary desserts. Also a bit more exercise.
I totally agree with starting the bike every so often...done it for years. Some people say including a certain guy on utube that says its a bad idea because of moisture build up!
Disagree starting the bike is the way.
Well, as long as you give it long enough for the engine to properly warm up....
@@TheMissendenFlyer agreed!
Unlucky you. We can go outside if we keep our distance and don’t form groups of more than three.
Therefore I did my first ride this year, 180km. That was too long for a first ride. Everything hurts especially my bottom parts.
The coming long Easter weekend, I will stay at home because there’s a chance a lot of people will want to go outside the house.
Good tip for sticky plastic buttons 👍🏼
I never load my batteries during winter except when I cannot ride them for more then two months in combination with several freezing nights.
Normally I ride my bike every few weeks all year round. This year I didn’t because of the bad weather during the first months of this year.
Ride safe, I hope you can soon and keep healthy.
Good tips. I'm only paying £7.96 on a 955i Daytona, thought about SORNing... Not worth it for me but with six bikes I would :)
I'm just about to move my bike, (going to just ride back and forth on the drive for a bit).
I have put a cable tie around the spoke nearest the spot on the floor, so I know where it was in contact before. Hopefully lock down will be over before I run out of spokes 😅😅😅
Good tip!
Only just watched this as it's now winter. Some really good tips that I realise I should be doing. First I need to replace my battery. Have you ever done a comparison of the different types, lead acid, AGM, gel and lithium?
I'm surprised I'm doing all of them, including the wheels off the ground. I've SORN'ed my bike too, but keep the insurance going. Thanks for the tip about the sticky buttons I've got an old K1200LT and the highbeam button sticks, it does work eventually...I shall be following your advise on that. Thanks! :-)
Good advice, love your vids, keep them coming.
Will do Ken - if you keep watching?
My motorcycle is ok, not affected by the coronavirus , I'm the one in storage!
😂
Many thanks for the advice
Nice tips andy, Be safe and well. Not long till we get to be let out again
Good advice keep safe mr Tmf to this blows over
👍 Great tips, have you looked at a stabiliser for the fuel system
Your collaboration with Bruce made good listening.
I have looked at it but personally don't bother here in the UK as I think our fuel is pretty good quality - not everyone agrees with me though as you'll see if you look through the comments here...
Id suggest some form of house for a mouse stopper ( Exhaust Bung ) Also they work great for when your washing your bike especially if a pressure washer is used as it keeps the moisture out the way )
Good tip!
Very good points Andy and well explained. Just to say, when you’re moving the bike, snake it around a little bit, don’t just move it backwards and forwards, otherwise everything ends up back in the same place. Another good tip, especially now, (if you’re capable) is to renew all your fluids if they haven’t been done recently. Saves a fortune in future costs at the dealer and most people DO have the time at the moment. Finally, and more importantly, for bikes out of MOT, your bike still needs to be in roadworthy condition if you do still need to ride it. Insurance companies normally do what they can to wiggle out of paying up so make sure you’re bike is ‘doubly’ road worthy! Look online at what’s checked during an MOT and check out what you can yourself (which to be fair you should be doing every year).
Great tips Steve - cheers....
If you're SORNing your steed you could look into getting laid-up insurance (if available) covering just fire and theft too. Oh, and buy a Li-ion battery booster just in case. And check it on a regular basis to make sure it's charged (usw).
4,20 yeah the neighbours are going to LOVE that!!
Good one. In extreme cold countries it's probably best not to run them every now and again as the oil goes like treacle. May be put a lock and chain on them too.
Good call!
Some insurance companies do say the bike needs to be taxed for the insurance to be valid though. So to SORN it might invalidate your insurance. Always worth checking
MCE and Hastings are 2 which dont cover for theft if Sorn
Keep insurance going? Sure, just hold my brew while I shit some cash out for said insurance. 😉😂 I'm sleeping in my garage till this is over..no-one is getting my bike. Cheers for the vid👍
Great tips, stay safe!
Sound advice as usual. For a premium bike I found the switchgear on my BMW to be a bit pants, had 3 R/H switch cubes under warranty), great bikes though. I am lucky enough to still be working, I leave for work at 0530 and from a selfish point of view the riding has never been better, 6 miles of Essex back roads the other morning with no vehicles on my side at all. I only ride to and from work, but am wondering that apart from the slight risk of added burden to the NHS if you fall off whether riding your bike is such a bad thing, it’s certainly doing wonders for my personal wellbeing.
Well indeed but the rules are the rules - if you have to ride the bike for work then fair enough it's a bonus, but going out for a joy ride isn't (in my view) in the spirit of "Stay at home, help the NHS, save lives"
TheMissendenFlyer yeah. As I said I’m only doing the essential ride. But you have to admit, this weather, your neck of the woods and traffic levels from 50 years ago.... tempting. Your right of course, whether there’s any harm in it or not, we have to set an example and pull together, millions of little gestures add up. Aside from working, my 3D printers are going flat out printing face masks, not much, but something. Keep up the good work, vloggers are keeping many housebound people sane at the moment.
You don't need to start the bike up every month or so if your only going to "warm it up". The oil will still be where you left it in all parts of the engine - engine design corrected for this many years ago with tertiary gullies and hold wells to ensure critical parts don't start dry. If you don't let the entire engine warm up (done by using the gear box / actually riding it) then your engine it only being warned up around the top end and doing this to often will cause uneven expansion which is undesirable in any engine. If your going to start it, ride it. Another issue is moisture build up in the engine from starting in the cold for only short periods as it isn't cooked away. Moisture build up will occur when the bike cools back down after only a short warm up. Starting the bike for only 5-10 minutes every couple of months is probably the worst thing you can do and will cause corrosion inside the combustion chamber. If your not going to use the bike for some time, lay it up. This means emptying the fuel tank and running it out and drain the bowl if its got carbs. The tires and flat spot issue can be avoided by buying good tires as the only tires that do this are cheap ones like low end commuter level Dunlop's. I know your trying to help but your providing out of date information that doesn't apply to modern bikes.
Thanks for watching and for stopping by!
Some great tips there TMF thanks for posting
Hi, noticed you have a big extension reel for optimate, the real should be fully unwound if plugged in. They act like a copper winding and can overheat....IMHO