I had a 69 Firebird in high school 11 second car , 455 turbo 400 ! Beautiful work I’m in the process of cutting and buffing a 3/4 ton 4x4 square body Chevy truck good info thank you sir!
@@carthageclassiccars You bet. Watch your videos every night after getting kids to bed. I’m restoring a square body right now and your videos give me motivation to keep going forward. Anyway you could do a video on adjusting doors with weatherstrip installed so there is no hinge binding ect for a smooth shut. I’m getting to the alignment part before final tear down to paint and want all that dialed in before fresh paint.
@@NDB390 awesome to hear that the videos helped and good luck on your build. If i get a chance to put the door with the weather-strip ill try and do that. Honestly I usually will adjust the door without weather-stripping and then put it on the car if I can and if nothing else slighly adjust the striker
Great content. Lots of different techniques and styles to smooth out paint, but you definitely prove that preparation and attention to detail are the most important thing in any technique being used.
Thank you very much for the feedback. You are 100% right I think in most cases with anything to do with the automotive world you can save yourself lets of hassle down the road with some pre planning and preparation.
Great video, great attention to detail. Been watching your videos, you're one of the best on TH-cam that I have come across. Very talented at your craft keep up the great work.
We have changed the paint supplies we use since this video, stay tuned I will be painting a few of them in the upcoming months and will go over the entire process and what we are using.
Do you have any extra advice or tips for cut and buff of a new black paint job? Would you recommend avoiding the rotary wool buff (to avoid swirls) and use only DA (buffer or sander) for each step in the process?
I am going to try and do a better video on the cutting and buffing in the next few months. Are you using a high solids clear, usually you can be more aggressive on that and work it down. New paint as that will make a difference. I would say try just the DA buffer first and use the least aggressive and see if it gets you paint where you want it first. No need to be overly aggressive if you don't have too or remove too much material. Also your first time you try something new do it in a spot at the bottom that would be easier to work back out.
Back in the day (late 70's) the finest grit we were able to cut and buff with was 600 grit. When 800 grit was introduced, we were all in shock and amazement that sandpaper could be so fine. This was when we were using 7 to 10 coats of acrylic lacquer on cars to keep the finish original, as they came from the factory.
I had a 69 Firebird in high school 11 second car , 455 turbo 400 ! Beautiful work I’m in the process of cutting and buffing a 3/4 ton 4x4 square body Chevy truck good info thank you sir!
You're welcome good luck on the cut and buff
You by far are one of the most detailed in explaining things. You are a master at your craft. Sylvester Customs does a good job as well.
Thank you very much! I have seen some of Sylvester Customs videos, I agree with you he is really good
@@carthageclassiccars You bet. Watch your videos every night after getting kids to bed. I’m restoring a square body right now and your videos give me motivation to keep going forward. Anyway you could do a video on adjusting doors with weatherstrip installed so there is no hinge binding ect for a smooth shut. I’m getting to the alignment part before final tear down to paint and want all that dialed in before fresh paint.
@@NDB390 awesome to hear that the videos helped and good luck on your build. If i get a chance to put the door with the weather-strip ill try and do that. Honestly I usually will adjust the door without weather-stripping and then put it on the car if I can and if nothing else slighly adjust the striker
Good video
Thank you!
Great content. Lots of different techniques and styles to smooth out paint, but you definitely prove that preparation and attention to detail are the most important thing in any technique being used.
Thank you very much for the feedback. You are 100% right I think in most cases with anything to do with the automotive world you can save yourself lets of hassle down the road with some pre planning and preparation.
Great video, great attention to detail. Been watching your videos, you're one of the best on TH-cam that I have come across.
Very talented at your craft keep up the great work.
Thank you very much appreciate the support
Its going to be bad ass! Looks great!
Thanks a lot!!!
2 thumbs up my friend
Thank you very much!
you can also drive by grabbing the block by itself and running smooth across
13:12
good advice thanks
Very nice info. Thanks
you are welcome
Thanks
You're welcome
Appreciate the instructional videos it helps me alot on my project thats a beautiful color what blue is that?
Thank you very much. This color is Liberty Blue.
I have not seen u paint a car. With your methods and what clear u use
We have changed the paint supplies we use since this video, stay tuned I will be painting a few of them in the upcoming months and will go over the entire process and what we are using.
Do you have any extra advice or tips for cut and buff of a new black paint job?
Would you recommend avoiding the rotary wool buff (to avoid swirls) and use only DA (buffer or sander) for each step in the process?
I am going to try and do a better video on the cutting and buffing in the next few months. Are you using a high solids clear, usually you can be more aggressive on that and work it down. New paint as that will make a difference. I would say try just the DA buffer first and use the least aggressive and see if it gets you paint where you want it first. No need to be overly aggressive if you don't have too or remove too much material. Also your first time you try something new do it in a spot at the bottom that would be easier to work back out.
awesome job. what brand of pads and backing did you get for the DA. Thanks
Thanks, I think they were an off brand on amazon if I remember correct.
What brand sandpaper are you using?
The duragold brand on amazon
When you laying down the paint do you wet sand between the coats, or you wait in to the end to wey sand it and buff.
No wait until after and I actually will do a better video on this wait a few weeks after for it to fully cure.
@@carthageclassiccars thanks
They are microns not mil (mm) but anyway thank you for the video.
I am pretty sure my gauge was set for Mil who knows but appreciate you watching
The reading is in microns not mills.
I am pretty sure my gauge read mils not microns, its been a while since I did this video but 1 mil is 0.001 inch.
This looks very tedious. Great work.
Thank you!!!
When you started with the sand paper you never said the grit. Educate your audience. It's 2000 to 3000 for cutting
I used 1000 for the main cutting on this project the 2-3 k was more to prep for polishing.
He did… how about you pay attention lol
Geezus. He said the grit about 20 times.
Back in the day (late 70's) the finest grit we were able to cut and buff with was 600 grit. When 800 grit was introduced, we were all in shock and amazement that sandpaper could be so fine. This was when we were using 7 to 10 coats of acrylic lacquer on cars to keep the finish original, as they came from the factory.