It's weird seeing a contractor setting up for an electrician. Usually they just leave it, cut what they want, and say "not my job". I appreciate seeing you care about the job as a whole to make things run smooth for everyone on the job.
As an Electrician of 17 years, you did a great job. You indeed remove the hot first, the neutral and then the ground. I’ll say I’m not a fan of the stab in the back connections. I always loop and put my wire under the screw in such a way that the wire tightens itself around the screw as you tighten the screw.
I get so many calls for loss of power on receptacles. Good ol stab in receptacles, neutral loosened up and burned up receptacle losing power to other receptacles down stream since circuit was in n out thru receptacle instead of pigtailed n spliced. Pretty good job though helping out the electricians. Good idea not pretwisting conductors as I've have run into so many broken wire in the wirenut.
There are some where you stick them in the back, but you have to tighten the screw. I think those are better than even using the side screw. Provided you tighten them enough.
Man, your electrician must love you! Installing junction boxes up high in the attic, what foresight and practicality! One of the many reasons I'm a Studpack fan! Good work guys!
You guys bust your tail on these videos...all the video editing, camera angles, lighting, narration,etc...I just want you to know I recognize it and I appreciate what you both are doing. so, a very genuine and heartfelt Thank you from me.
Hi Stud Pack , I am a master electrician from Quebec, you deserve a Honorary electrician license, you are great at it. You explain things and diagnose electrical like a pro! Only thing I would recommend less junction boxes the better try running home runs to the panel . Attics are not the best environment for wiring as it’s not conditioned environment. Example the high heat in summer the table on wiring in the code for 90 plus degrees you have to cut the amount of amps that circuit can supply on a given awg size or pass larger awg size. You said yourself in Louisiana you guys like large pantry’s , so put your junction boxes in there . Keep making those incredible videos . Thank you Gang.
Apprentice electrician here. When removing live devices I was taught a different combination to remove the wires. We remove the ground first, hots second, neutrals last and reassemble in reverse. The reason we cut off the ground first is because while you're holding that device by the yoke with the ground attached you're grounded. Which means if you touch a hot wire you're going to be electrocuted. Or if a hot wire slips and touches any metal parts besides the hot terminal screws it's going to arc. With the ground removed you're actually in a much safer position. What happens if you touch a live wire when you aren't grounded? Nothing. There's no path back to source. Neutrals are always after hots because you don't want to create an open neutral and risk frying someones electronics further down the line. You've also learned in the past that getting nailed by a neutral really sucks. This is all a non-issue if the power is off. But hey, it's a long walk to the panel. Thanks for the video and keep up the great content.
As a DIYer, I always kill the breaker and test for current before working on an existing outlet, switch or fixture. I know you guys know more than me, but I'm not made of money and some things are basic enough for someone with intelligence and common sense to study up and do the job themselves. I'm sure you've come across (or will) some horrendous DIY wiring. One house I considered back when I was house hunting had outlets in the garage wired to an extension cord plugged into the wall in the mud room.
@@dokenboken5542 I plug something into every socket that's supposed to be run off the labelled curcuit and then see what's still working before doing anything else Our 32a kitchen cooker curcuit was running off the 5a lighting curcuit when we moved in so anything is possible
When we were taught to do Consumer unit changes (Fuse Boxes/Panels) it was remove the ground first, then neutral then hot so it had no paths to go down and as long as you were on insulated pads you'd be too high resistance to carry the current anyway. Each scenario is different though and you need to know what you're working on and what order to do it in if you have to work live on something.
@@therealdojj I would recommend getting one of those pencil looking testers like he uses at 22:00 for like 10 bucks. I used the same method you use but didn't realize my house has a few circuits with a shared neutral. So even with the fuse unplugged it was still a hot neutral. The only downside is then having to find what circuit the neutral is tied into.
someone taught you wrong. if you remove the ground first you are removing your safety first. thats like climbing a cliff without your rope. If your wire slips or you shock yourself that is operator error and should be adressed in a different way. If you are incompetent then just kill the power before playing with stuff.
As an electrician of 32 years - you’re just fine! Anyone willing to work with their electrician like this is so helpful! It would cost us more to come move a few wires and terminate a few boxes than the project would be worth. Good on ya
The best way to make sure circuits are off. Always cut through both conductors at the same time with your favorite pair of cutters. You'll always be afraid of ruining a good tool and double check!!!!
@@jmarine79 More than likely the current melted them when the strippers acted as a bridge between the live wire and neutral/ground. Don't ask me how I know this. 😂 😂
@@willschultz5452 He's removing the tabs from the back of the PVC work boxes that are meant to clamp the Romex and prevent it from being pulled out easily. It's a code violation and every inspector I've come across would require them to be removed and replaced.
@@nilpo those are not the clamp type of boxes, those are the type that you remove the tabs completely. They only rely on a staple put on the wire close to the box to hold the wire in the box.
5:19 - This is a great tip that I've never heard before since watching DIY videos for about 4 years. Nobody mentions this and it's a great safety technique.
its up to the electrician to check and sign the work off. its the same when they have an aprentice what do the do just watch for 3 years before the touch anything. you do good work any electrician worth his salt would call it a blessing
My grandfather died 56 years ago, I barely have any memories....He would have cried when he seen you pitching that old wire and junction box. He was a helper for plumbers and electricians....and he salvaged everything from the jobs he worked on. When he built his house, he used all the old wire for the tube and knob. I remember looking up into the floor joists from the basement, and seeing the wiring taped together every 4 foot, 6 foot, 4 again......It is a wonder the old homestead never burned to the ground. Love your channnel...
My grandfathers barns ewere sided with the old shingles he pulled off of houses that caught on fire and were being bulldozed. He was a firefighter in the 60s and anytime a total loss house still had some good shingles he would pop them off and his barns and coop had 3 tab, octagonal, and everyother color and type of old shingle you could imagine as their siding. Still keeping most of the water out of the barns today. Some of them are probably 80 year old asphalt shingles today. He lived at a time when men were men and women were too. The trades are dying and its gonna be a huge problem 10 years from know.
Like I've said before, I've been an electrician for 40yrs. as of this year and you do better than many of the licensed hacks I've encountered over those years. Another tip for ya... Anchor J bxs 18-24" on any accessible framing member of an attic if possible vs. anchoring low and possibly being hid by insulation. And always staple within 6" of a non-metalic box and 12" within a metal box. Thank you for conveying the differences between a wire and a cable and a wire cap vs. a "nut".!?! If an apprentice were to look in a order catelog for wire "nuts", they would get lost. I understand that it's not a big deal for the non-electrician, but for such a specific terminology based trade, it's encouraged at the professional level. You'll find that in the IBEW schools as well. I agree Paul, Ideal's Tan Twisters are a must have. Granted, Yellow and Red caps are an essentual part of an electrician's arsenal, but, Tan Twisters are a great suppliment. Again.. great video!
Plenty of people in the industry use the term "wire nut"....agreed it's functionally more of a cap than a nut, but it's definitely industry standard lingo
That's not true. Sometimes the white is reidentified. For example in a switch loop. It is very dangerous to assume the person before you knew what they were doing and did it right. That is how you get shocked
@@dakotbeastj No problem, but you made a good point about wires in general. Never assume. We must check to see what each wire is doing, rather than just assume it is what it should be.
First of all, let me say that you’re not only knowledgeable but also wise. Thanks for these videos. It is not only entertaining but it actually teaches you things that otherwise you might have not known. Great job!
I've seen you work and it is spot on! I was an electrician and being licensed is a piece of paper that does not replace responsibility quality and work ethic, all things that you have shown mastery in. Your videos could easily be shown in trade school. Simply awesome!
As a master electrician, I prefer nobody but me touches the wiring so I know what was done and that it was done right. I never "back stab" outlets cause it's lazy and produces a poor connection. I've gone to houses and have found melted outlets caused by back stabbing. Very common problem. When working live, I always disconnect the ground FIRST. this way it eliminates the shock hazard while holding the metal part of the outlet. FYI, twist your splices so when the wirenut falls off you don't lose the connection.
Those square things in the blue Carlon boxes aren't knockouts. They're cable clamps. You're supposed to open them on one side; the other side is a hinge. You slide the cable through and the little flap will wedge into the cable sheath so you can't pull it out.
I was just going to say this. I am not a licensed electrician, however have done some small electrical work at home and that is 1 thing I noticed with these boxes. They are indeed NOT knockouts, they are hinged like a Chinese finger trap. Wire can push in easily but not pull out.
@@patrickdriscoll7881 what do you mean "first strap" will hold it? You mean staple on the wire? Not all installs of these boxes have stapled wire. Some are just strung across ceilings, or dropped through a wall cavity. I understand the boxes with clamps are a different style. But in the end, a box still requires a clamp of some sort to hold the wire in place. You would never pass an inspection if you used a metal box without a clamp even if it was stapled. Plastic is no different. The only reason why he may be getting passed is because those plastic locks arent as easily seen from the outside so are assumed to be intact. I think his ceiling install of that plastic box doesnt have the wire stapled, so what's the safety of that box without the staple?
@@jordankesselring4852 Yes a staple is a form of strapping to hold the wire. The box in question has four plastic tits that hold the KO. Once clipped or otherwise separated there is only an opening. The final strapping (which he explained will be done all at once) will take care of it. Your question about why other boxes require a connector and this type doesn’t is valid. Not sure why yet I’ve never failed an inspection because of it.
I just have to say that any licensed installer throwing you shade should know , that thanks to you guy's I have been able to get things done on my mobile home while making it safer than the manufacturer . Much of their work should be illegal . And if I could afford their rates , I wouldn't live in a mobile home ! So thank you gentlemen for helping out .
An exciting video! I liked the content quite a bit since from where I am from, all buildings are made of block & mortar or concrete with preplaned pvc piping for the wiring. Which makes it a bit difficult or messy to reroute any sort of wiring to another place, but makes changing wires easy as EMT piping. But what I really took home is the format of this video, in comparison to the excitement others bring with quick cuts to finished product, where you can see the work, the sweat, the tired faces, and the slow pace. It brings the human to the Studpack, made of real people and not actors pretending to work. Hope I get the idea of what I'm trying to say through. Not at all saying to change anything, but a remark of what I noticed.
Great job on your electrical demo job! I could only wish to come behind you to do the finishing electrical work. Also pig-tailing is the best wiring method for devices to make sure receptacles last with minimal issues. Backstabbing is what keeps the electrical service companies in business.😁 I hope your electrician remembers to arc fault protect all circuits that are relocated, modified, added, or repaired... including receptacle replacement. Again beautiful work!
Great job guys! Your electrician is going to be amazed at how easy you have made his job. I enjoyed the breaker test at the end because I have never done that before ; )
I absolutely love your channel. I live in the UK and things are done differently but that doesn't stop me watching every single video you post. I have got some great tips from you. I also love the father and son duo, you guys get on so well. Keep up the good work. I'm so glad I found your channel xx
As a DIYer I love your videos, and I love the engagement of professionals commenting on them. You guys have built a really educational online community and it's helping me know where to even begin with some stuff. Don't know how people did it in the old days, flying blind and hoping not to burn their houses down!
6:00 this is what Ive always understood as safer... But my journeyman dropped a hot phase and it touched the grounded panel can and it blew up. He said he should have disconnected the ground FIRST. I also just was shown a demonstration by my foreman. He grabbed a hold of hot 277v and I tested him with my ncvt. He was energized but didn't get shocked. He explained the reason is that he took the precautions to make sure he is NOT grounded. When he took apart the light switch he was hot swapping, he disconnected the ground FIRST. I asked why he didn't follow the standard rule of breaking ground last and making it first, and he said if he touched the switch that was still grounded and the hot wire at the same time, what does that make him? Grounded. I won't claim to be an expert here, I'm a 2nd year electrical apprentice... But I thought it was interesting how in some situations (only of you thoroughly understand exactly what the electricity is doing) it appears to be safer to disconnect the ground first. Even after these 2 experiences, I still follow the first make last break rule for ground, but I do keep in mind what I learned from those 2 examples where electricians were working on something they knew in advance was hot (which isn't recommended to begin with but electricians sometimes have to)
Really good video and nice job on the filming. My Dad was a general contractor in Michigan back in the 60's and 70's and you and your son really bring back the memories for me. He used to do a lot of the same thing. Thanks for the great job!
It’s crazy how much you remind me of the tile setter I had back when I was a helper. I swear you guys could be brothers. I catch my self telling my helper a lot of the same things he use to tell me. So it’s awesome to see you guys saying a lot of the same stuff too. It seems like you have some great tip about almost anything, he was the same way too. Great videos! Keep it up! 100k soon hopefully!
NYC here. I worked with BX and metal boxes in a 1940s studio apartment that I renovated. I don't like Romex or plastic boxes, but the fight that I had to put up to rehab cloth-insulated wires was one for the ages. I even had to break up soldered wires that fed downstream outlets. The night before I was due to finish, I tripped a CKT with my miter saw and could not ID the fuse at first. Future me's and anyone else is in for a treat, but the stress was no bueno. Great work all around, awesome explanations, and not a word over what was necessary! Thanks!
Nice video. Doing similar work for my electrician in a basement build. Never knew about the "adjustable box". Perfect for the small kitchen I'm installing to allow for the backsplash! Thanks for the info.
I’m no electrician, nor work in construction but I’m a jack of all trades kind of guy… never knew ground would always be in the middle to ensure no other wire jacket are compromised while stripping. Thank you
You guys are awesome. I just had a new service installed after a tree pulled down my service and damaged my weather head. New service is 200 amp and got a sub panel added to my new shed. I am confident on running cables and wiring my shed myself and I know how to do it right. Thanks
Fantastic job! My electrician friend trained me nearly the same way: leave all the slack you can, tape up the slack (he had me use white electrical tape because it doesn't leave as much residue), pull out the non-contact Klein voltage indicator and check for voltage... before EVERY cut 🤣, do all the work possible on the floor, label every wire, box, & circuit, and set the boxes high enough that no one has to bend over. Only thing I see in your video (which I expect you'll probably get to at the end of the job) is the thing I disliked most about remodel work: the attic is in dire need of additional insulation. 😜
Great vid. I would leave the extra loop of wire right above the box in the wall. And I like installing the deepest box possible for every occasion. Why? Cuz I hate cutting any wire in the box shorter then the rest. All black, white, and ground wires, for me, always remain the same length. All extra length gets put in the back of the box for “the future”.
I'm in Singapore for the last 10 years, and have come to appreciate the 240v single phase circuits here.. Because the voltage is doubled, the current is cut in half, making the need for heavier gauge wires unnecessary. Secondly, the wall-plugs on appliances are physically bigger, but also safer to grab and remove from the sockets and seat better in the wall sockets. Any 110v stuff I have can be run through a step-down transformer or a variac.
I enjoy your vid’s. I have been in remodeling and associated work since 1975, but good to see how others do stuff. I dont know if this comment is going with the right video, youtube might have jumped ahead and i dont want to figure out how to go back. Anyway, on the bath exhaust fan venting...i would never use the flexible duct for several reasons : 1) all the ridges greatly reduce air flow. 2) too easy to tear the stuff and hard to connect it well.3) I have run into a case where the exhaust run had a dip, low spot in it and the warm moist air condensed inside the pipe like a plumbing trap, until it blocked off most of the intended air flow ! 4) had a squirrel get in the vent weather head, eat thru the flex, get in the attic , then naw a hole in bath ceiling so that the young tenant lady made the owner pay for a hotel until he got the problem corrected! All so the exhaust fan installer would have an easier install . The stuff is crap. Do it right the first time As for your relationship with your electrician, I can see the benefits, but would be concerned about the liability question if something went wrong . You know insurance companies spend much of their time trying to figure how to avoid paying claims .
I always mount the attic junction boxes to the rafters and attach my coiled wire there as well using a zip tie with the screw hole makes it easy to attach it to the rafter….. as up north we spray in insulation that can be 16” deep and all cover plates are identified as you do … great video
Yeah, this is what I was hinting at preciously. 😂 Wish we had electrical contractors here that would allow us to do the work and then just sign off. Not sure if I would have videoed everything though 😉, you never know what may happen later. For sure he knows what he’s doing, and I assume the licensed electrician is willing to take the liability. Good work as always
Here in Canada we use metal boxes so we put all of our grounds to the back of the box on a screw and run 1 wire to the ground screw. Everything else is the same as far as residential electrical goes. I have never seen a plastic box or ground wire nuts.
Proper videos on electrical need to outnumber bad DIY videos, so don’t hesitate. I only watch videos from electricians or even this case because they know the code, techniques and safety and take into account things a DIY video won’t because of that. A lot of people treat electrical work like a forbidden black art that you should never mess with, but if they have the proper knowledge, then they should be able to do it up to the level they’re comfortable with. If you’re not comfortable, call in the sparky. I see it the same way as guns: educate yourself and be safe.
When I work with wiring, I always test first and even though it’s off I pretend it’s live. Being a maintenance electrician for over 30 years my method has kept me out of trouble. I know it’s hard, sometimes you have to do it live. But if you can turn it off, do it. Safety first.
22:04 I just learned the proper way is to test against a known power source, then your project wire, then back to known live source. It comes from using the non-led tool, but still good to do out of habit.
man this work looks so much nicer to do than slab work. I believe the 'knockout" in the blue device box is actually to be bent back and will act as a wedge to keep the wire from being pulled out by accident, earthquake or if the house shifts. Loved these tips Good honesty leaving in that last part :)
I pretty much do everything you do. When I know I’m done in a box, I wrap each wire nut with black electrical tape. I got an Excel spreadsheet with every service. I learned that I personally check to ensure a given breaker is OFF. Had someone tell me power was OFF. Not!!!
I have a friend who is certified as an electrician but not a licensed electrician. He did the wiring for his house, paid the licensed electrician to look at it & make sure everything was good, then had the electrician give the power company the green light to turn the power on. Whenever I have people come to do work (which isn't often), I try to make things easier for them if I can. I'm somewhat of a hoarder so I wouldn't throw out cable even if it wasn't very long because you never know when it might come in handy. Especially with the prices these days.
Yes, Never reuse the push in connection on the back of an receptacle. When removing the wire from the back, it is too easy to damage the prong in the receptacle and not have proper tension on the connection. another good video. Really like the way you do the electrical terminations.
Having a good relationship with the electrician is great. Sometimes scheduling issues are a fact and by what you did by labeling and boxing out saves him a ton of work. He just needs to run the arc fault two wire hrs. -etc. btw, don’t backstab any devices. I’ve seen way too many problems in 40 plus years doing that 👍
Here and New Jersey not sure about other States you are allowed to do your own Electrical work on a one family house what out being licence as long as you have a permit and you get it Inspected. On a 2 family multi family homes you have to have License electricia
That klein tool for removing finishing screws the best one to buy is that is the two in one instead of buying two of them with its own tip, One flat and one Philips combo, I bought mine at the home depot , All I have to do is turn around the double side-it tip to whatever I need.
I’m in Canada and what I’ve noticed since watching your videos your electrical boxes don’t have wire clamps in the boxes. Not sure if in America you guys don’t do that but seems better to have a clamp in the box to safely keep the wire in place in the box in case someone pulls the wire from attic or wherever else
That is what the staples are for. You will notice how close the first one is to the box. Also, the piece that he punched out can be a clamp if you only punch one side of it.
When you have wires that long (or even if not,) there’s no excuse for not just snipping off the wires where they enter the backstabbers, because the backstabber has damaged the exposed wire end and it should be discarded.
Agreed Declan. Sometimes I'll cut off the stripped end because the original electrician used lineman pliers to strip the wire (or the wrong spot on the wire strippers) and nicked the wire which easily breaks off due to fatigue.
- Don’t staple too close to walls. - You’re only supposed to have 1/4 inch of sheathing inside the box. - Why knockout the clamps? - Few other things you could nit pick for code but why bother. Should grab a code book and read up on some things before you do any future electrical
I'm not a licensed electrician but I've have run miles of wiring. I learned the basics decades ago back in high school that also included an advanced course. Over the decades I spent lots of time remodeling and flipping houses that included many rewiring projects. Caveat: All my work was done with the proper building permits, inspections and eventually signed off on. I only ever failed one inspection and that was because after twisting some ground wires together I used a "red' wire nut to secure them instead of a "green" one. At first I thought the inspector was joking but turns out I wasn't familiar with the code change. In any event, I have no problem with a non-licensed folks, like the crew of Stud Pack, doing wiring as long as whoever does the work they know they know the fundamentals, know how to be safe, understand the dangers involved, and have their work inspected by a licensed professional.
Journeyman here, One tip that I think would help people alot is to see whether or not that wire is long enough to go right over to the outlet location so that you avoid having to make a junction box in the attic
I enjoy all of your videos,still to hesitant about doing any kind of electrical repairs at my mom home! House very old,build in the mid 50s,but I've learned a lot from you guys!! Dad and son working together, love it!!!
Thank you for NOT using the push in connector and teaching proper use of screw terminals... I learned something new with the hole in the side of the strippers for making the hook to go on the screw!
Caring sparky who does not use the flimsy push in but rather the screws. At one time they were approved for #12 & 14 guage copper wires but at least 10 years ago NEC only allows #14 wire. They refuced diameter of hole so #12 can not be used. Argued with lazy sparkies 40 years ago about push in wire ports. Told them when they were approved for ground wires I would consider using them. I.always used the cadilac of drill bits & extensions GREENLEE. Had a 5/8 & 3/4"
Push in wire ports aren't good enough for the ground, exactly why I don't use them 👍 I saved a couple of those old receptacles that accept #14 and #12. Thought about doing a video about why it was changed. Pretty interesting story 💪
You are a consummate professional; Jordan is so fortunate to work be working with and learning from you. My family and I will be building a home in the near future. I’ll consider myself lucky if I can find a contractor with your breadth of knowledge and pride in their work.
Hey guys! I ran across this video again and would you believe it.. I have even MORE advice! lol Ok.. so, when attaching cables onto a 2x4 stud, I highly suggest using Cable Stackers. Making a parallel run puts the cable at risk of being to close to the edge. Granted, a dry waller is supposed to use nothing longer than a 1-1/4 screw when fastening 1/2" wallboard. But, all too often, they don't follow that rule. Stacking cables is the neatest means of the installation. And if you think about it, that is why when drilling a hole for routing cable, that you cannot use anything larger than a 3/4" bit on a 2x4.
Fantastic content. This is really great information for the DIY guy. I appreciate your hard work, attention to detail, and time spent providing this content! Love the electrical knowledge, tips, and tricks. Cheers!
I screwed up doing a kitchen reno when I was demoing some cables. I thought I turned them off at the breaker and was to lazy to test them. I just snipped both cables at once and it was quite the pop lol.
That’s a very normal practice with other contractors in Florida if you trust them or know them. I’ve had some bad electricians though. Pay them 60$ an hour because of their license and I have to go behind them and redo 75% of their work. Some with plumbers he installed the shower valves upside down. You do great work it seems. I enjoy the learning we always need to learn regardless of what you’ve already done. Thank you b
When I first started working as a carpenter the general contractor also had his electrical license and we wired the houses we built l learned how to wire in a few days by the 3 third house I was doing all the connections in main panel due my neatness,, it was so much easier to learn then all the aspects of carpentry, I'm ,60 now and have been in business for 36 heard as a general contractor and just rough wired a house by myself in. 14 hours all by memory with no plans, you can do it just don't let it intimate you,, I went in business at 22 years old after only 2 year's of on the job training and have learned all the trade along the way.
I don't know about you guys in the states but here in Canada we save all of our left over wires and when we have enough we bring them in for a profit and we get more money for them if we strip them
Whenever I use those blue junction boxes (like the one used for the future circuit stored in the attic) instead of completely breaking out the knockout, just break away the bottom of the tab and push the cable through. With the tab still in place, it acts as a kind of sort of clamp on the romex.
@@johnwielgolinski5552 Securing electric cable in the box is good practice, and it makes for a safer installation. However, you do not need to secure the NM or Romex wire inside the plastic box. The electrical code states that you must staple on a solid surface (the stud) twelve inches or nearer to the outside of the box. The staple provides a secure hold because it is separate from the box itself. Securing and supporting requirements for NM cable are found in Section 334.30. The general rule for NM cable is to secure the cable within 12 inches of the box and every 4.5 feet thereafter.
Although it is dangerous and easy to make mistakes, it's legal in most states (I don't know of any that it isn't) for a home owner to do their own electrical. If you're one of the DIYers, make very certain you know what you're doing and you understand the code and requirements. Be careful and respect the power of electricity. I've added several circuits to my home after I had an electrician come in and change my archaic fuse box into a decent breaker box. Before hand, the outlets in the living room and a bedroom were on a single circuit. It's 3 circuits now.
I’m older than you (ask your son, Jordan, what that makes me!), and I know a lot, but I always learn something new from you! Like the green Scotchgard connector for the bare ground wires. Always sharing your videos. Daniel
Ive been enjoying your electrical videos. You have been pretty spot on. A couple things i felt like i should pass on... The tabs in those boxes arent meant to be completely broken out. If you just force the cable through the tab will act as a strain relief and cant be pulled back out of the box. its a good idea to strip the ends of the wire before capping them. Ive found that the wirenut doesnt hold as well on the outer insulation. I cap the grounds like you too for the same reason, also its nice to have one there to use whenever you go back to make a splice.
It's likely the receptacle was replaced more recently. The gang box is probably original though. If had to guess the wire isn't the original either a lot of homes from that era used a cloth covered wiring or aluminum wiring.
You can let all your viewers know that not only do the neutral terminal have the wide plug in front but the neutral is always on the same side of the receptacle as the ground wire terminal, thanks for all your videos and keep the videos coming hope ya'll doing well.
I love your videos brother. I'm not sure if you knew it or not, but the strippers ARE made for romex literally. the first section with 3 holes is for 14/2 and the second section with 3 holes is for 12/2 wire. These sections are for stripping the sheathing off of the romex cable. Just lightly grip your wire, flatly in the jaws of the 14/2 or 12/2 section, to cut the sheathing then use your hand to pull off the sheathing. Keep the videos coming brother. Be blessed.
I'm from Europe, it is interesting to see the differences between our electrical installations. We have cable, but we mostly use single wire in pipes so you don't have to tear down the wall if you want to change the wires. (Most of our walls are stone although we have drywall.).
Nice video as always. What about your romex stripper instead of the utility blade? Cuts the sheathing nice and clean around the wires. Just curious since you have them already.
Blade is better for stripping romex sheating when it's in the box already. The stripper has a tendency to score the coating on a conductor when you use them at an angle like stripping inside a box would require. Not sure why he doesn't do it when outside the box though, it's definitely faster imo to use the strippers for that. Older romex had differently sized plastic than new Romex so he might be playing it safe for that.
Just my personal preference but I usually rough wire electric with the more expensive wago flippers(easy to remove if you need to rework) and then switch to push in’s when doing the finish work.
I did a lot of DIY learning when obliterating some awful electrical in my current house. There is nothing more satisfying than just demo'ing tons of octopus wires and junctions and being able to run fresh wiring that you can actually track and trace. Seeing all these clean terminations and new wiring is like chicken soup for the soul haha.
I suggest when you place the junction boxes in the attic to place at a decent height just in case in the future the owners decide to convert to attic to a living space since you're amazing at thinking ahead. Also I know you said you're NOT giving instructions but I would've still noted to staple (whichever code requires) before the junction box.
Love your videos guys. Super helpful. How come you don’t use the depth adjustable new work boxes? I did in my house projects and they made everything so much easier
I would like you to know it's awesome That Jordan is working beside you and thank you for posting all the very informative TH-cam video . I have watched a lot of master election work and your on track with your wiring 😁
Boxes which open into the attic shouldn't be nailed to the ceiling joists but should be on truss webbing above the insulation, if it is available. Really the best would be to mount them on a pedestal (wood or metal) to position them above the level of attic insulation. Some people are adding blown in insulation 12 inches deep. The boxes installed this way will be visible for inspection or future work and in the event of a fire in the box the heat will not be confined by insulation which could raise the temperature around the box high enough to spread the fire.
Just came across this channel a few days ago....not only did I sub but first time ever hit that bell to get upload notifications. Love the deep description and available knowledge in your videos guys! 👌
@18:20 Huh. that's something I never knew! usually they come off easy enough, but it's good to know! Oh, and that electrical tape pre-staging is just brilliant.
![[MV] A leap of faith...ความเชื่อใจครั้งสุดท้าย (From "Petrichor the series")](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/U1piZH2CNXA/mqdefault.jpg)
It's weird seeing a contractor setting up for an electrician. Usually they just leave it, cut what they want, and say "not my job". I appreciate seeing you care about the job as a whole to make things run smooth for everyone on the job.
We do it all the time. But we also do alot of our own.
Back 20+ yrs ago I lrnd getting along with and trading tips and beers with other trades made for an easier and cheaper working relationship
Most contractors earn 5here money.
As an Electrician of 17 years, you did a great job. You indeed remove the hot first, the neutral and then the ground. I’ll say I’m not a fan of the stab in the back connections. I always loop and put my wire under the screw in such a way that the wire tightens itself around the screw as you tighten the screw.
Stabbing in the back should be illegal
I get so many calls for loss of power on receptacles. Good ol stab in receptacles, neutral loosened up and burned up receptacle losing power to other receptacles down stream since circuit was in n out thru receptacle instead of pigtailed n spliced.
Pretty good job though helping out the electricians.
Good idea not pretwisting conductors as I've have run into so many broken wire in the wirenut.
He did mention that it was only temporary and that he always loops them around the screw
Outlets w/ stab in the back work loose, lights are OK
There are some where you stick them in the back, but you have to tighten the screw. I think those are better than even using the side screw. Provided you tighten them enough.
Man, your electrician must love you! Installing junction boxes up high in the attic, what foresight and practicality! One of the many reasons I'm a Studpack fan! Good work guys!
Thx John 👍
Amen
The gold standard is buried in insulation 👍
@@StudPack a seam ripper works great for splitting cable sheathing! Super inexpensive and no chance of nicking a wire when cutting open that sheathing
Less money for the electrician less work lol this guy is only saving money being cheap
You guys bust your tail on these videos...all the video editing, camera angles, lighting, narration,etc...I just want you to know I recognize it and I appreciate what you both are doing. so, a very genuine and heartfelt Thank you from me.
Hi Stud Pack , I am a master electrician from Quebec, you deserve a Honorary electrician license, you are great at it. You explain things and diagnose electrical like a pro! Only thing I would recommend less junction boxes the better try running home runs to the panel . Attics are not the best environment for wiring as it’s not conditioned environment. Example the high heat in summer the table on wiring in the code for 90 plus degrees you have to cut the amount of amps that circuit can supply on a given awg size or pass larger awg size. You said yourself in Louisiana you guys like large pantry’s , so put your junction boxes in there . Keep making those incredible videos . Thank you Gang.
Apprentice electrician here. When removing live devices I was taught a different combination to remove the wires. We remove the ground first, hots second, neutrals last and reassemble in reverse. The reason we cut off the ground first is because while you're holding that device by the yoke with the ground attached you're grounded. Which means if you touch a hot wire you're going to be electrocuted. Or if a hot wire slips and touches any metal parts besides the hot terminal screws it's going to arc. With the ground removed you're actually in a much safer position. What happens if you touch a live wire when you aren't grounded? Nothing. There's no path back to source. Neutrals are always after hots because you don't want to create an open neutral and risk frying someones electronics further down the line. You've also learned in the past that getting nailed by a neutral really sucks. This is all a non-issue if the power is off. But hey, it's a long walk to the panel.
Thanks for the video and keep up the great content.
As a DIYer, I always kill the breaker and test for current before working on an existing outlet, switch or fixture. I know you guys know more than me, but I'm not made of money and some things are basic enough for someone with intelligence and common sense to study up and do the job themselves.
I'm sure you've come across (or will) some horrendous DIY wiring.
One house I considered back when I was house hunting had outlets in the garage wired to an extension cord plugged into the wall in the mud room.
@@dokenboken5542 I plug something into every socket that's supposed to be run off the labelled curcuit and then see what's still working before doing anything else
Our 32a kitchen cooker curcuit was running off the 5a lighting curcuit when we moved in so anything is possible
When we were taught to do Consumer unit changes (Fuse Boxes/Panels) it was remove the ground first, then neutral then hot so it had no paths to go down and as long as you were on insulated pads you'd be too high resistance to carry the current anyway. Each scenario is different though and you need to know what you're working on and what order to do it in if you have to work live on something.
@@therealdojj I would recommend getting one of those pencil looking testers like he uses at 22:00 for like 10 bucks. I used the same method you use but didn't realize my house has a few circuits with a shared neutral. So even with the fuse unplugged it was still a hot neutral. The only downside is then having to find what circuit the neutral is tied into.
someone taught you wrong. if you remove the ground first you are removing your safety first. thats like climbing a cliff without your rope. If your wire slips or you shock yourself that is operator error and should be adressed in a different way. If you are incompetent then just kill the power before playing with stuff.
As an electrician of 32 years - you’re just fine! Anyone willing to work with their electrician like this is so helpful! It would cost us more to come move a few wires and terminate a few boxes than the project would be worth. Good on ya
I wish more electricians were like you.
@@JediOfTheRepublic it’s always best to keep the high ground!
@@JediOfTheRepublic this is only absolutely hilarious, because most of my social media presence, my avatar is Captain Rex!
@@steveheathen212 hahaha, very cool! Yeah, have had this name for over 10 years I believe haha
@@JediOfTheRepublic fantastic!
The best way to make sure circuits are off. Always cut through both conductors at the same time with your favorite pair of cutters. You'll always be afraid of ruining a good tool and double check!!!!
Looool had this happen to me before , ruined 2 day old strippers haha
@@joshlavecchia9888 how do the stripper get ruined?
@@jmarine79 More than likely the current melted them when the strippers acted as a bridge between the live wire and neutral/ground. Don't ask me how I know this. 😂 😂
Guys it’s no joke, think about wearing one PPE glove & move safe up one level, just think if touching wrong edge of pliers
BUT REMEMEBER, EXPERIENCE IS THE BEST WAY TO REMEMBER ,," SAFETY FIRST'"
I'm an electrician and everything I'm seeing you do looks very good! Your safety tips you give everyone are really good too🙂. Great work!
I appreciate that!
An electrician where? I'm curious where this would pass inspection. It would fail here immediately. Every box would need removed and replaced.
@@nilpo LMAO why would that be, theres nothing wrong there🤷♂️
@@willschultz5452 He's removing the tabs from the back of the PVC work boxes that are meant to clamp the Romex and prevent it from being pulled out easily. It's a code violation and every inspector I've come across would require them to be removed and replaced.
@@nilpo those are not the clamp type of boxes, those are the type that you remove the tabs completely. They only rely on a staple put on the wire close to the box to hold the wire in the box.
On that thin Stanley, I like to put shrink tube on the shaft for added safety.
5:19 - This is a great tip that I've never heard before since watching DIY videos for about 4 years. Nobody mentions this and it's a great safety technique.
its up to the electrician to check and sign the work off. its the same when they have an aprentice what do the do just watch for 3 years before the touch anything. you do good work any electrician worth his salt would call it a blessing
This is probably the most educational video Ive ever seen. I learned a lot. Just all the little tips are amazing (if I can remember them lol).
Thx Dustin 👍
Nice work stud pack! So you know, you are truly old school when people took pride in their work! 👏
My grandfather died 56 years ago, I barely have any memories....He would have cried when he seen you pitching that old wire and junction box. He was a helper for plumbers and electricians....and he salvaged everything from the jobs he worked on. When he built his house, he used all the old wire for the tube and knob. I remember looking up into the floor joists from the basement, and seeing the wiring taped together every 4 foot, 6 foot, 4 again......It is a wonder the old homestead never burned to the ground. Love your channnel...
That was my grandfather too, he could fix anything with the odds and ends he had on hand, miss him a ton.
My grandfathers barns ewere sided with the old shingles he pulled off of houses that caught on fire and were being bulldozed. He was a firefighter in the 60s and anytime a total loss house still had some good shingles he would pop them off and his barns and coop had 3 tab, octagonal, and everyother color and type of old shingle you could imagine as their siding. Still keeping most of the water out of the barns today. Some of them are probably 80 year old asphalt shingles today. He lived at a time when men were men and women were too. The trades are dying and its gonna be a huge problem 10 years from know.
Like I've said before, I've been an electrician for 40yrs. as of this year and you do better than many of the licensed hacks I've encountered over those years. Another tip for ya... Anchor J bxs 18-24" on any accessible framing member of an attic if possible vs. anchoring low and possibly being hid by insulation. And always staple within 6" of a non-metalic box and 12" within a metal box. Thank you for conveying the differences between a wire and a cable and a wire cap vs. a "nut".!?! If an apprentice were to look in a order catelog for wire "nuts", they would get lost. I understand that it's not a big deal for the non-electrician, but for such a specific terminology based trade, it's encouraged at the professional level. You'll find that in the IBEW schools as well. I agree Paul, Ideal's Tan Twisters are a must have. Granted, Yellow and Red caps are an essentual part of an electrician's arsenal, but, Tan Twisters are a great suppliment. Again.. great video!
Plenty of people in the industry use the term "wire nut"....agreed it's functionally more of a cap than a nut, but it's definitely industry standard lingo
I learn somthing new every time. The wide is always the neutral! Electrical Receptacle: Wide = white
If you watch The Handyman he always says 'white to bright, black to brass'.
That's not true. Sometimes the white is reidentified. For example in a switch loop. It is very dangerous to assume the person before you knew what they were doing and did it right. That is how you get shocked
@@dakotbeastj He is talking about on a receptacle. A switch is a totally different subject.
@@illestofdemall13 got ya. I misread
@@dakotbeastj No problem, but you made a good point about wires in general. Never assume. We must check to see what each wire is doing, rather than just assume it is what it should be.
First of all, let me say that you’re not only knowledgeable but also wise. Thanks for these videos. It is not only entertaining but it actually teaches you things that otherwise you might have not known. Great job!
I've seen you work and it is spot on! I was an electrician and being licensed is a piece of paper that does not replace responsibility quality and work ethic, all things that you have shown mastery in. Your videos could easily be shown in trade school. Simply awesome!
As a master electrician, I prefer nobody but me touches the wiring so I know what was done and that it was done right. I never "back stab" outlets cause it's lazy and produces a poor connection. I've gone to houses and have found melted outlets caused by back stabbing. Very common problem. When working live, I always disconnect the ground FIRST. this way it eliminates the shock hazard while holding the metal part of the outlet. FYI, twist your splices so when the wirenut falls off you don't lose the connection.
Those square things in the blue Carlon boxes aren't knockouts. They're cable clamps. You're supposed to open them on one side; the other side is a hinge. You slide the cable through and the little flap will wedge into the cable sheath so you can't pull it out.
I was just going to say this. I am not a licensed electrician, however have done some small electrical work at home and that is 1 thing I noticed with these boxes. They are indeed NOT knockouts, they are hinged like a Chinese finger trap. Wire can push in easily but not pull out.
The cheaper ones are barely hanging on by 2 little pieces of plastic and won't hinge. I've seen both types
They are knockouts for that box style. The clamp type you speak of is a different box style. First strap will hold the cable in the box.
@@patrickdriscoll7881 what do you mean "first strap" will hold it? You mean staple on the wire? Not all installs of these boxes have stapled wire. Some are just strung across ceilings, or dropped through a wall cavity. I understand the boxes with clamps are a different style. But in the end, a box still requires a clamp of some sort to hold the wire in place. You would never pass an inspection if you used a metal box without a clamp even if it was stapled. Plastic is no different. The only reason why he may be getting passed is because those plastic locks arent as easily seen from the outside so are assumed to be intact. I think his ceiling install of that plastic box doesnt have the wire stapled, so what's the safety of that box without the staple?
@@jordankesselring4852 Yes a staple is a form of strapping to hold the wire.
The box in question has four plastic tits that hold the KO. Once clipped or otherwise separated there is only an opening.
The final strapping (which he explained will be done all at once) will take care of it.
Your question about why other boxes require a connector and this type doesn’t is valid. Not sure why yet I’ve never failed an inspection because of it.
I just have to say that any licensed installer throwing you shade should know , that thanks to you guy's I have been able to get things done on my mobile home while making it safer than the manufacturer . Much of their work should be illegal . And if I could afford their rates , I wouldn't live in a mobile home ! So thank you gentlemen for helping out .
An exciting video!
I liked the content quite a bit since from where I am from, all buildings are made of block & mortar or concrete with preplaned pvc piping for the wiring. Which makes it a bit difficult or messy to reroute any sort of wiring to another place, but makes changing wires easy as EMT piping.
But what I really took home is the format of this video, in comparison to the excitement others bring with quick cuts to finished product, where you can see the work, the sweat, the tired faces, and the slow pace. It brings the human to the Studpack, made of real people and not actors pretending to work.
Hope I get the idea of what I'm trying to say through. Not at all saying to change anything, but a remark of what I noticed.
Great job on your electrical demo job! I could only wish to come behind you to do the finishing electrical work.
Also pig-tailing is the best wiring method for devices to make sure receptacles last with minimal issues. Backstabbing is what keeps the electrical service companies in business.😁
I hope your electrician remembers to arc fault protect all circuits that are relocated, modified, added, or repaired... including receptacle replacement.
Again beautiful work!
Great job guys! Your electrician is going to be amazed at how easy you have made his job. I enjoyed the breaker test at the end because I have never done that before ; )
I absolutely love your channel. I live in the UK and things are done differently but that doesn't stop me watching every single video you post. I have got some great tips from you. I also love the father and son duo, you guys get on so well. Keep up the good work. I'm so glad I found your channel xx
if it was my house, I would also make it Ethernet ready, specially since you have removed the ceiling making super easy to run Ethernet cables.
Agreed!
Who uses ethernet in an age of wireless?
@@robschwenck how are you going to connect the wireless router?
@@robschwenck people who have brains
@@macster1457 At the cable connection.
As a DIYer I love your videos, and I love the engagement of professionals commenting on them. You guys have built a really educational online community and it's helping me know where to even begin with some stuff. Don't know how people did it in the old days, flying blind and hoping not to burn their houses down!
6:00 this is what Ive always understood as safer... But my journeyman dropped a hot phase and it touched the grounded panel can and it blew up. He said he should have disconnected the ground FIRST. I also just was shown a demonstration by my foreman. He grabbed a hold of hot 277v and I tested him with my ncvt. He was energized but didn't get shocked. He explained the reason is that he took the precautions to make sure he is NOT grounded. When he took apart the light switch he was hot swapping, he disconnected the ground FIRST. I asked why he didn't follow the standard rule of breaking ground last and making it first, and he said if he touched the switch that was still grounded and the hot wire at the same time, what does that make him? Grounded. I won't claim to be an expert here, I'm a 2nd year electrical apprentice... But I thought it was interesting how in some situations (only of you thoroughly understand exactly what the electricity is doing) it appears to be safer to disconnect the ground first. Even after these 2 experiences, I still follow the first make last break rule for ground, but I do keep in mind what I learned from those 2 examples where electricians were working on something they knew in advance was hot (which isn't recommended to begin with but electricians sometimes have to)
Really good video and nice job on the filming. My Dad was a general contractor in Michigan back in the 60's and 70's and you and your son really bring back the memories for me. He used to do a lot of the same thing. Thanks for the great job!
It’s crazy how much you remind me of the tile setter I had back when I was a helper. I swear you guys could be brothers. I catch my self telling my helper a lot of the same things he use to tell me. So it’s awesome to see you guys saying a lot of the same stuff too. It seems like you have some great tip about almost anything, he was the same way too. Great videos! Keep it up! 100k soon hopefully!
NYC here. I worked with BX and metal boxes in a 1940s studio apartment that I renovated. I don't like Romex or plastic boxes, but the fight that I had to put up to rehab cloth-insulated wires was one for the ages. I even had to break up soldered wires that fed downstream outlets. The night before I was due to finish, I tripped a CKT with my miter saw and could not ID the fuse at first. Future me's and anyone else is in for a treat, but the stress was no bueno. Great work all around, awesome explanations, and not a word over what was necessary! Thanks!
Thx Marcos 👍. I prefer MC and EMT and metal boxes too. Goes back to my commercial days I guess 💪
Nice video. Doing similar work for my electrician in a basement build. Never knew about the "adjustable box". Perfect for the small kitchen I'm installing to allow for the backsplash! Thanks for the info.
Cool, thanks Rick!!
I’m no electrician, nor work in construction but I’m a jack of all trades kind of guy… never knew ground would always be in the middle to ensure no other wire jacket are compromised while stripping. Thank you
You guys are awesome. I just had a new service installed after a tree pulled down my service and damaged my weather head. New service is 200 amp and got a sub panel added to my new shed. I am confident on running cables and wiring my shed myself and I know how to do it right. Thanks
Fantastic job!
My electrician friend trained me nearly the same way: leave all the slack you can, tape up the slack (he had me use white electrical tape because it doesn't leave as much residue), pull out the non-contact Klein voltage indicator and check for voltage... before EVERY cut 🤣, do all the work possible on the floor, label every wire, box, & circuit, and set the boxes high enough that no one has to bend over.
Only thing I see in your video (which I expect you'll probably get to at the end of the job) is the thing I disliked most about remodel work: the attic is in dire need of additional insulation. 😜
Great vid. I would leave the extra loop of wire right above the box in the wall. And I like installing the deepest box possible for every occasion. Why? Cuz I hate cutting any wire in the box shorter then the rest. All black, white, and ground wires, for me, always remain the same length. All extra length gets put in the back of the box for “the future”.
I'm in Singapore for the last 10 years, and have come to appreciate the 240v single phase circuits here..
Because the voltage is doubled, the current is cut in half, making the need for heavier gauge wires unnecessary.
Secondly, the wall-plugs on appliances are physically bigger, but also safer to grab and remove from the sockets and seat better in the wall sockets.
Any 110v stuff I have can be run through a step-down transformer or a variac.
This old man actually learned something.... now that I retired. The ideal wire nut nut driver adapter. Really good tips in this video.
I enjoy your vid’s. I have been in remodeling and associated work since 1975, but good to see how others do stuff. I dont know if this comment is going with the right video, youtube might have jumped ahead and i dont want to figure out how to go back. Anyway, on the bath exhaust fan venting...i would never use the flexible duct for several reasons : 1) all the ridges greatly reduce air flow. 2) too easy to tear the stuff and hard to connect it well.3) I have run into a case where the exhaust run had a dip, low spot in it and the warm moist air condensed inside the pipe like a plumbing trap, until it blocked off most of the intended air flow ! 4) had a squirrel get in the vent weather head, eat thru the flex, get in the attic , then naw a hole in bath ceiling so that the young tenant lady made the owner pay for a hotel until he got the problem corrected! All so the exhaust fan installer would have an easier install . The stuff is crap. Do it right the first time
As for your relationship with your electrician, I can see the benefits, but would be concerned about the liability question if something went wrong . You know insurance companies spend much of their time trying to figure how to avoid paying claims .
Thx for commenting Richard, much appreciated 👍
I"m a DYI kinda guy, and love watching your videos. I have learned a lot. Thank you, and your son for all the helpful videos.
I love the preparation organization before the electrician goes in it makes it easy on the job and the customer paying for the job.
I always mount the attic junction boxes to the rafters and attach my coiled wire there as well using a zip tie with the screw hole makes it easy to attach it to the rafter….. as up north we spray in insulation that can be 16” deep and all cover plates are identified as you do … great video
Man you did all the work already. Just run new circuits and have the electrician sign off on them.
You know that’s what he did.
@@richardwinstanley2014 😂
Yeah, this is what I was hinting at preciously. 😂
Wish we had electrical contractors here that would allow us to do the work and then just sign off.
Not sure if I would have videoed everything though 😉, you never know what may happen later.
For sure he knows what he’s doing, and I assume the licensed electrician is willing to take the liability.
Good work as always
@Bo Diddly , not only that, but as a pro, if you see something wrong, you’re required to fix it.
You guys bear a heavy burden.
I never use the receptacle device for connection of neutrals always pigtails. I don't depend on the device to continue the circuit.
Here in Canada we use metal boxes so we put all of our grounds to the back of the box on a screw and run 1 wire to the ground screw. Everything else is the same as far as residential electrical goes. I have never seen a plastic box or ground wire nuts.
Proper videos on electrical need to outnumber bad DIY videos, so don’t hesitate. I only watch videos from electricians or even this case because they know the code, techniques and safety and take into account things a DIY video won’t because of that. A lot of people treat electrical work like a forbidden black art that you should never mess with, but if they have the proper knowledge, then they should be able to do it up to the level they’re comfortable with. If you’re not comfortable, call in the sparky. I see it the same way as guns: educate yourself and be safe.
When I work with wiring, I always test first and even though it’s off I pretend it’s live. Being a maintenance electrician for over 30 years my method has kept me out of trouble. I know it’s hard, sometimes you have to do it live. But if you can turn it off, do it. Safety first.
I just learned more than I have in a long time my friend! VERY NICE JOB BOYS! I tip my hat to y'all!
22:04 I just learned the proper way is to test against a known power source, then your project wire, then back to known live source. It comes from using the non-led tool, but still good to do out of habit.
man this work looks so much nicer to do than slab work.
I believe the 'knockout" in the blue device box is actually to be bent back and will act as a wedge to keep the wire from being pulled out by accident, earthquake or if the house shifts.
Loved these tips
Good honesty leaving in that last part :)
Great video and I aways learn something from each one. This one, I learned about the "grounding wire nut", never seen one, great idea!
I pretty much do everything you do. When I know I’m done in a box, I wrap each wire nut with black electrical tape. I got an Excel spreadsheet with every service. I learned that I personally check to ensure a given breaker is OFF. Had someone tell me power was OFF. Not!!!
I have a friend who is certified as an electrician but not a licensed electrician. He did the wiring for his house, paid the licensed electrician to look at it & make sure everything was good, then had the electrician give the power company the green light to turn the power on.
Whenever I have people come to do work (which isn't often), I try to make things easier for them if I can.
I'm somewhat of a hoarder so I wouldn't throw out cable even if it wasn't very long because you never know when it might come in handy. Especially with the prices these days.
Yes, Never reuse the push in connection on the back of an receptacle. When removing the wire from the back, it is too easy to damage the prong in the receptacle and not have proper tension on the connection. another good video. Really like the way you do the electrical terminations.
Thx 👍😎
Having a good relationship with the electrician is great. Sometimes scheduling issues are a fact and by what you did by labeling and boxing out saves him a ton of work. He just needs to run the arc fault two wire hrs. -etc. btw, don’t backstab any devices. I’ve seen way too many problems in 40 plus years doing that 👍
Thx Anthony. I never backstab. That one was only temporary 👍
Here and New Jersey not sure about other States you are allowed to do your own Electrical work on a one family house what out being licence as long as you have a permit and you get it Inspected. On a 2 family multi family homes you have to have License
electricia
That klein tool for removing finishing screws the best one to buy is that is the two in one instead of buying two of them with its own tip, One flat and one Philips combo, I bought mine at the home depot , All I have to do is turn around the double side-it tip to whatever I need.
I’m in Canada and what I’ve noticed since watching your videos your electrical boxes don’t have wire clamps in the boxes. Not sure if in America you guys don’t do that but seems better to have a clamp in the box to safely keep the wire in place in the box in case someone pulls the wire from attic or wherever else
That is what the staples are for. You will notice how close the first one is to the box. Also, the piece that he punched out can be a clamp if you only punch one side of it.
Those tabs aren't supposed to be removed. They are supposed to act as clamps.
if you dont have a tiny flat head you can twist and pull to get them out of the push ins.
When you have wires that long (or even if not,) there’s no excuse for not just snipping off the wires where they enter the backstabbers, because the backstabber has damaged the exposed wire end and it should be discarded.
Agreed Declan. Sometimes I'll cut off the stripped end because the original electrician used lineman pliers to strip the wire (or the wrong spot on the wire strippers) and nicked the wire which easily breaks off due to fatigue.
- Don’t staple too close to walls. - You’re only supposed to have 1/4 inch of sheathing inside the box. - Why knockout the clamps? - Few other things you could nit pick for code but why bother. Should grab a code book and read up on some things before you do any future electrical
I'm not a licensed electrician but I've have run miles of wiring. I learned the basics decades ago back in high school that also included an advanced course. Over the decades I spent lots of time remodeling and flipping houses that included many rewiring projects. Caveat: All my work was done with the proper building permits, inspections and eventually signed off on. I only ever failed one inspection and that was because after twisting some ground wires together I used a "red' wire nut to secure them instead of a "green" one. At first I thought the inspector was joking but turns out I wasn't familiar with the code change. In any event, I have no problem with a non-licensed folks, like the crew of Stud Pack, doing wiring as long as whoever does the work they know they know the fundamentals, know how to be safe, understand the dangers involved, and have their work inspected by a licensed professional.
Much appreciated Elton 👊👍
Journeyman here, One tip that I think would help people alot is to see whether or not that wire is long enough to go right over to the outlet location so that you avoid having to make a junction box in the attic
I enjoy all of your videos,still to hesitant about doing any kind of electrical repairs at my mom home! House very old,build in the mid 50s,but I've learned a lot from you guys!! Dad and son working together, love it!!!
Thank you for NOT using the push in connector and teaching proper use of screw terminals... I learned something new with the hole in the side of the strippers for making the hook to go on the screw!
Cool thx 👍
Caring sparky who does not use the flimsy push in but rather the screws. At one time they were approved for #12 & 14 guage copper wires but at least 10 years ago NEC only allows #14 wire. They refuced diameter of hole so #12 can not be used. Argued with lazy sparkies 40 years ago about push in wire ports. Told them when they were approved for ground wires I would consider using them. I.always used the cadilac of drill bits & extensions GREENLEE. Had a 5/8 & 3/4"
Push in wire ports aren't good enough for the ground, exactly why I don't use them 👍 I saved a couple of those old receptacles that accept #14 and #12. Thought about doing a video about why it was changed. Pretty interesting story 💪
You are a consummate professional; Jordan is so fortunate to work be working with and learning from you. My family and I will be building a home in the near future. I’ll consider myself lucky if I can find a contractor with your breadth of knowledge and pride in their work.
Hey guys! I ran across this video again and would you believe it.. I have even MORE advice! lol Ok.. so, when attaching cables onto a 2x4 stud, I highly suggest using Cable Stackers. Making a parallel run puts the cable at risk of being to close to the edge. Granted, a dry waller is supposed to use nothing longer than a 1-1/4 screw when fastening 1/2" wallboard. But, all too often, they don't follow that rule. Stacking cables is the neatest means of the installation. And if you think about it, that is why when drilling a hole for routing cable, that you cannot use anything larger than a 3/4" bit on a 2x4.
Nice! Never knew such a thing even existed for Romex. Been using something similar for CAT for ages.
Fantastic content. This is really great information for the DIY guy. I appreciate your hard work, attention to detail, and time spent providing this content! Love the electrical knowledge, tips, and tricks. Cheers!
Thx walker 👍
On behalf of electricians everywhere.... Thank you for putting the junction boxes up high.👍👍
Thx Ralph 👍
great video, I am currently in a pre-apprentice electrical program and always find your videos relevant. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Much appreciated Rudy👍
I screwed up doing a kitchen reno when I was demoing some cables. I thought I turned them off at the breaker and was to lazy to test them. I just snipped both cables at once and it was quite the pop lol.
That’s a very normal practice with other contractors in Florida if you trust them or know them. I’ve had some bad electricians though. Pay them 60$ an hour because of their license and I have to go behind them and redo 75% of their work. Some with plumbers he installed the shower valves upside down. You do great work it seems. I enjoy the learning we always need to learn regardless of what you’ve already done. Thank you b
When I first started working as a carpenter the general contractor also had his electrical license and we wired the houses we built l learned how to wire in a few days by the 3 third house I was doing all the connections in main panel due my neatness,, it was so much easier to learn then all the aspects of carpentry, I'm ,60 now and have been in business for 36 heard as a general contractor and just rough wired a house by myself in. 14 hours all by memory with no plans, you can do it just don't let it intimate you,, I went in business at 22 years old after only 2 year's of on the job training and have learned all the trade along the way.
The side cutter as a level is a thing that every mechanic learns when doing drum brakes 👍👍👍
I don't know about you guys in the states but here in Canada we save all of our left over wires and when we have enough we bring them in for a profit and we get more money for them if we strip them
I believe it is called “mongo”.
Whenever I use those blue junction boxes (like the one used for the future circuit stored in the attic) instead of completely breaking out the knockout, just break away the bottom of the tab and push the cable through. With the tab still in place, it acts as a kind of sort of clamp on the romex.
That’s why those tabs are there. Code requires that the cable be secured at the box.
@@johnwielgolinski5552 Securing electric cable in the box is good practice, and it makes for a safer installation. However, you do not need to secure the NM or Romex wire inside the plastic box. The electrical code states that you must staple on a solid surface (the stud) twelve inches or nearer to the outside of the box. The staple provides a secure hold because it is separate from the box itself. Securing and supporting requirements for NM cable are found in Section 334.30. The general rule for NM cable is to secure the cable within 12 inches of the box and every 4.5 feet thereafter.
Although it is dangerous and easy to make mistakes, it's legal in most states (I don't know of any that it isn't) for a home owner to do their own electrical.
If you're one of the DIYers, make very certain you know what you're doing and you understand the code and requirements.
Be careful and respect the power of electricity.
I've added several circuits to my home after I had an electrician come in and change my archaic fuse box into a decent breaker box.
Before hand, the outlets in the living room and a bedroom were on a single circuit. It's 3 circuits now.
soon it will be illegal to go to the restroom without permission.
I’m older than you (ask your son, Jordan, what that makes me!), and I know a lot, but I always learn something new from you! Like the green Scotchgard connector for the bare ground wires.
Always sharing your videos. Daniel
Thx Daniel 👍
I appreciate you going over the difference between a cable and a wire. So many people get mixed up with it.
Ive been enjoying your electrical videos. You have been pretty spot on. A couple things i felt like i should pass on...
The tabs in those boxes arent meant to be completely broken out. If you just force the cable through the tab will act as a strain relief and cant be pulled back out of the box.
its a good idea to strip the ends of the wire before capping them. Ive found that the wirenut doesnt hold as well on the outer insulation.
I cap the grounds like you too for the same reason, also its nice to have one there to use whenever you go back to make a splice.
Back stabbed connections held
go 40 years. Interesting.
Thank you
Wonderful video showing
excellent workmanship.
It's likely the receptacle was replaced more recently. The gang box is probably original though.
If had to guess the wire isn't the original either a lot of homes from that era used a cloth covered wiring or aluminum wiring.
You can let all your viewers know that not only do the neutral terminal have the wide plug in front but the neutral is always on the same side of the receptacle as the ground wire terminal, thanks for all your videos and keep the videos coming hope ya'll doing well.
I love your videos brother. I'm not sure if you knew it or not, but the strippers ARE made for romex literally. the first section with 3 holes is for 14/2 and the second section with 3 holes is for 12/2 wire. These sections are for stripping the sheathing off of the romex cable. Just lightly grip your wire, flatly in the jaws of the 14/2 or 12/2 section, to cut the sheathing then use your hand to pull off the sheathing. Keep the videos coming brother. Be blessed.
Great tip about cutting in middle of romex. Been working with it a long time and never considered that.
Also great tip on 5/16th driver on wire nut.
I'm from Europe, it is interesting to see the differences between our electrical installations. We have cable, but we mostly use single wire in pipes so you don't have to tear down the wall if you want to change the wires. (Most of our walls are stone although we have drywall.).
Nice video as always.
What about your romex stripper instead of the utility blade? Cuts the sheathing nice and clean around the wires. Just curious since you have them already.
Blade is better for stripping romex sheating when it's in the box already. The stripper has a tendency to score the coating on a conductor when you use them at an angle like stripping inside a box would require.
Not sure why he doesn't do it when outside the box though, it's definitely faster imo to use the strippers for that. Older romex had differently sized plastic than new Romex so he might be playing it safe for that.
Hands down, this was the best video I've seen in a long time. Well done, I appreciate old school.
Glad you enjoyed it Bob thx!
Just my personal preference but I usually rough wire electric with the more expensive wago flippers(easy to remove if you need to rework) and then switch to push in’s when doing the finish work.
Ahh! Love the after credits scene! :) “Now what?” I think we’ve all been there...
I did a lot of DIY learning when obliterating some awful electrical in my current house. There is nothing more satisfying than just demo'ing tons of octopus wires and junctions and being able to run fresh wiring that you can actually track and trace. Seeing all these clean terminations and new wiring is like chicken soup for the soul haha.
Yep thx tighe 👍
mr. paul, you're more patient, competent and professional compared to some journeyman electricians ive seen. they're always rushing.
I suggest when you place the junction boxes in the attic to place at a decent height just in case in the future the owners decide to convert to attic to a living space since you're amazing at thinking ahead. Also I know you said you're NOT giving instructions but I would've still noted to staple (whichever code requires) before the junction box.
Man I wish I knew a few of these great tricks before I did my 5 full renovations. Thanks for your work and above all, your attention to detail.
Love your videos guys. Super helpful. How come you don’t use the depth adjustable new work boxes? I did in my house projects and they made everything so much easier
We use them. I love them. Just not at drywall locations. Backsplashes and areas like that
Catching up on all of your videos. I am a residential/industrial maintenance manager and love these episodes. Thanks.
Don't worry some people are full of it you gents work as I said second to none simply great may God continue to bless you and your family well done
I would like you to know it's awesome That Jordan is working beside you and thank you for posting all the very informative TH-cam video .
I have watched a lot of master election work and your on track with your wiring 😁
Boxes which open into the attic shouldn't be nailed to the ceiling joists but should be on truss webbing above the insulation, if it is available. Really the best would be to mount them on a pedestal (wood or metal) to position them above the level of attic insulation. Some people are adding blown in insulation 12 inches deep. The boxes installed this way will be visible for inspection or future work and in the event of a fire in the box the heat will not be confined by insulation which could raise the temperature around the box high enough to spread the fire.
Just came across this channel a few days ago....not only did I sub but first time ever hit that bell to get upload notifications. Love the deep description and available knowledge in your videos guys! 👌
@18:20 Huh. that's something I never knew! usually they come off easy enough, but it's good to know! Oh, and that electrical tape pre-staging is just brilliant.