My one suggestion as an electrical engineer would be to place 20 amp outlet at the end where the line cord enters the first box and put the indicator lamp and hospital outlet at the far end. That would serve two purpose... it would keep the heavier current from passing through extra wiring and connections. Second having the indicator at the far end would indicate that power is actually getting to the farthest end of the unit!
@@amkelle2 - As stated in the video the 15A gfci can handle some overload although that is not ideal. You could usd a 20 Amp, inline gfci unit instead, but that might require you have access to a 20 Amp receptacle as the source power.
@@LarryCoates1948 To be fair, yes, I did not intently watch the whole video, I skipped through a lot of it to get the jist. But still, wouldn’t a 20A pull on a 15A outlet be unsafe? Or even pointless if the breaker is 15A
@@amkelle2 - it could be a problem but most likely not for a short term use. Long term yes ti would be a problem but would trip the breaker if it heated up for too long!
This was hands down one of the best instructional videos I have ever seen dealing with electricity. Knocked it right out of the park. It is also cool you are a father son team. Lots of guys wish they had that growing up.
Plus you are still using your dad's electrical cords and they will be passed down to your son then his son in the future. The best part you are father and son, passing knowledge is what I truly love to do an teach my family how to fix and build things. I said family because I have an still teach my boys and girls how to do stuff. Teaching them is fun for me and they teach me new things as well. Making memories is what life is about isn't it. An you making videos of you both together is awesome. Better than the old time photo album our parents loved to bring out several times a year to look at.
Pro Tip: When tightening a cord into into a strain relief, press the cord inwards towards the connections on the device to de-strain them while you're tightening it down. This provides some slack inside the device and prevents strain-loading the connections during assembly. And... great video, thanks!
Great Comment!!! (While Stud Pack may have done that by instinct and because of experience, and didn't mention it. That's great information for those of us that don't have that experience to fall back on!!! Thank you.)
The ground wire should be longer than the other two. If stress on the cable causes wires to pull out or break, the hot or neutral will fail first - not the ground.
This thing is incredible! Also love that when viewers suggest improvements, you guys listen instead of getting offended. Leads to an amazing solution like this. Great video as always. Love your channel.
Replete with expensive and completely unnecessary things. See my full comment for details. $15 for an indicator light? 12AWG stranded wire for a ground when even the current carrying conductors only need to be 14AWG solid? This channel was much better when it was just a son helping and documenting his dad doing remodeling work. It's now to contrived and monetized. I have nothing against people making money for their hard work... but I do have a problem with contrived content and "shocking" thumbnails used to manipulate. It ruined the channel for me. Do you think everything they linked to the overpriced McMaster site isn't getting them something at OUR expense? Please.
@@DiffEQ They didn't link anything to McMaster-Carr, they are just part numbers to look up yourself. That uncharitable comment of yours says everything about your heart's intentions. Try to be more kind.
@Richard M Interesting you mention the price Richard. We had thousands and thousands of people pick apart a simple extension cord and tell us how we should've done it. But when we spend the $300 to build it how they want, it's "too expensive". It's still a son helping and documenting and of course it's contrived, like everything we do! Thumbnails are used to get people interested, and none of our thumbnails lie or mislead. If you have a problem with attention grabbing Thumbnails, maybe TH-cam isn't for you bud. We put part numbers up for McMaster and we receive no kickback and we rarely post Amazon links even though we get hundreds of people telling us we need to do so. We don't like to respond to comments bred from negativity, but everything you said is blatantly wrong, and you should know that. - Jordan 😎
@@StudPack To be fair, quite a significant amount of your electrical "guides/suggestions" don't follow electrical code, and are unsafe/hacks that professionals are constantly having to fix. This went from a cool father/son channel to something cringe-worthy when your explanations/excuses for doing things illegally/wrong become video topics. Stick to what you're good at?
EXCELLENT VIDEO! My dad was an electrician for 47 years and he taught me to be conservative and cautious in order to keep things safe. It was GREAT to see you carefully use many of the tricks that he taught me as well as many of the tips I’ve developed over the years thanks to his careful training. Cable stripping, strain relief, proper use of tools and adapters… you hit them all. Hats off as well to your commenters, who taught me all sorts of useful and interesting things that even 30+ years of well-informed DIY work had left me wondering about. I’ve subscribed to your channel, and I’m planning a “binge watch” to prep for some upcoming projects!
The super extension cord video was the first video of Stud Pack that I watched. Since then, I have watched every video of yours. I’m hooked. Great content, loads of fun and Paul’s personality has really come thru since your first video. Love the father son interaction and that Jordan is so respectful. I have a few tools of my fathers and grandfathers and really cherish them like you do with your fathers extension cord. Got to give Jordan a shot out. I assume this was his idea and the filming has been terrific. I’m not in the trades so Paul’s ability to clearly explain the work and tricks of the trade is excellent. He has a real gift. Having grown up in northern Florida, the heat and humidity is gruesome. So I know the conditions you are working in. The only video that was hard for me to watch was when you were installing pipe under the patio for a toilet. Paul looked whipped by the heat but he prevailed. I looked and felt the same way when working road construction in the summer in Fla. Thanks for such a fun and interesting channel. Keep it going.
The first video I watched was the first extension cord build. I have watched every video since. All very well done and edited. I consider myself a jack of all trades and a master of none and have learned many things watching this channel.
Me too!! I made something similar to the first ext cord project years ago and watched to see if maybe I could improve it. Then I got hooked on the whole Stud Pack attitude. And I was like, "that guy sounds like people I know." I live in Texas now but I've got family all over SE LA including BR. You guys are awesome and I really appreciate it that you keep a positive happy attitude. Keep up the good work. God bless.
Pro Tip: When you are twisting stranded wire, twist in the opposite direction. You may notice that when you cinch the ground screw it tends to splay the wire. The reverse twist is in the same direction as the cinching of the screw so it actually squeezes the wire in the same direction as the twist making a "better" connection.
Ya know Bob....I would even go further and solider the twists..no freedom wire exposed....easier to insert. Stud man....gotta love that old wire...they made em well 40 to 50 years ago. Also, congrats no blood!
I would go even further here honestly. Over time, a soldered stranded wire end will warp due to heat and pressure when places in a screw terminal. Instead, crimp and solder the wire end in a ring terminal and put the screw through that
Ha ha…you are giving code enforcement and fire marshals across the world heartburn for sure with this project. Love it. I guessed right on the USB outlets, but you left out my second device. I was expecting a load sensing circuit to power up your shop vac whenever you started your saw. Maybe video three. Final comment is solid wire inside would be fine. Nothing should be moving inside these boxes. The stranded wire just made it harder to wire up like on that ground screw. Thanks for the entertainment.
I'd add a power monitor to the rig that can display the voltage, current, and power factor. They're available for a very low price and will let you see at a glance if you're approaching the limits. Basically a small panel display with a current sensor that you run the feed wire through. It'll add a Kill-A-Watt function to make it more ultimate. 😉
Been doing industrial maintenance like ~6-7 years now and grew up in a home where we did everything DIY. Had literally zero knowledge that there was a stranded and solid side to strippers. Learn something new every single day, as long as you allow yourself to admit when you don't know.
Idk if I would advertise not being aware of super basic details like that. It says more about you as a worker in your trade than it does about the quality of this video 😂😂
@@SlapperGlutesTwice I'm not going to pretend. If you can't admit you don't know something you don't keep yourself open to learning. In any trade, if you keep your eyes and ears open, you learn something new every single day.
Depends on the strippers you use. I prefer the self adjusting jaw strippers or.just do it by feel. Most electricians I've ever come across strip by feel.
I work in industrial electronics at a wire manufacturer, just to inform, the copper size is likely smaller than actual gauge size regardless of solid/strand. do you think they are just giving copper away?
Most new breakers have 2 trip methods. One is magnetic which works primarily during a fault. The second is a bimetal coil, similar to an old fashion thermostat, this is the one that handles general overloads. Depending on the manufacturer, age, and use of the breaker it can take time for the coil to heat up and trip. Certain manufacturer like Zinsco and Federal Pacific wont trip and you get the smokey house effect. We hope there isn’t one in the house you’re at. It is perfectly normal to hit a higher amperage on a breaker for a short period of time before the coil snaps. I have seen a 20 amp breaker hit 25 amps and hold for 10 minutes. Ultimately heat is what trips the breaker in an overload and it takes time for the heat to build up and trip the breaker. If you had a thermometer on you at the time of the video, you most likely could have identified the breaker you were using by the amount of heat it would have been producing. How ever I don’t suggest replicating the scenario to try it. Overloading a circuit is never a good thing. The more heat a breaker takes on the easer it trips the next time. Great video! I got out of remodeling to became an electrician. I mis the remodel world. I watch your videos and you guys always have some new concept or product that I have never seen. There are a lot of new products that has come out in the last several years. I really liked the cabinet leveling kit. I switched to air bags just before I got out of the business, but this little gizmos you guys used knocked the socks off the airbags. I can’t wait to see the next video.
@@TopCat2021 I have seen 90 amp on a 15 amp breaker for a second or so to close a F***ing big coil was just a testing rig , normally this was powered by a dc charger and battery but was still surpise it was holding
I was about to say, arent breakers, supressors, etc all supposed to be sacrificial components? I'd definitely consider replacement in multiple scenarios...
Your answer is spot on. There are also trip curves available for almost every breaker except for those horrid Zinsco and Federal Pacific panels. Its pretty interesting to see how long a breaker will hold with a particular breaker. There are also different breaker trip curves, A-F that will determine the In-Rush available. In-Rush is what allows motors and capacitors to charge without tripping breakers constantly.
Zinsco and federal pacific are pretty much known in the inspection world as a no go and always labelled as a must replace. Interesting to see a sparky call it out in the wild.
I would make it more like a regular distro box where the extension cable would plug into a male outlet at the top. That way if the cable gets cut you don’t have to rewire everything. And you can choose the length you need for the job so you don’t have all this extra heavy cable. And you can take the main part with you end of day and leave the cable. And have two 20 amp legs. And have small gfci breakers at the top to turn in each leg. To top two would be one 20 amp circuit. Next would be another 20 amp circuit. And the third I would put in 240v 20amp outlets. And outside covers on all outlets that allow you to keep a wire plugged in while closed. Covers with windows. Those covers are gonna break so fast. Also a small spd at the top might be a good idea being a job site with temp power and a bunch of high draw startup tools going off and on. Oh and put a nightlight electrical outlet on it so you can find it at night. Light sensor ones that turn on in the dark. That way even if you’re inside a dark area you’ll have light. And have it be modular.
This video and the comments below reflect one of the things I like most about this channel. Paul is 85%+ for an amazing number of trades, and he presents in a way that is accessible to DIYers without condescending to pros. That means he attracts a very wide range of people, AND he's humble enough to showcase suggestions or corrections. I could hardly be more impressed with Paul. And obviously, thanks to Jordan for making the channel possible and for making the connections/ asking the questions for those of us who aren't as widely competent as Paul is. :) You two are a great team that has built a forum for a very helpful community. *Thank you.*
I used to be impressed. That's why I started watching years ago. Now, it just more contrived and scripted nonsense and it's lost that organic feel of a son helping his talented father. Just take a look at the thumbnail progression... more of the "shocking" and "???" thumbnails that are only used to manipulate and please the algorithms. They lost my subscription!
@@DiffEQ Then move on.. sorry I have seen a few of your comments on here on other peoples comments. If you don't enjoy the channel anymore than don't make those that like it have to listen to your negative narrative.. just unsubscribe and move on, Paul and his son don't owe you anything
@@steve_main What's your point? I already said I have moved on; As have many others. Doesn't mean I can't make the reasons known. Do you live in that world where all comments have to be praise and support? Do you? And you are wrong about people who are soliciting subscribers for profit when you say they don't owe those subscribers anything. This is not an altruist venture, sir. Get a grip. You chose to respond with negativity but others are forbidden to do so without your concurrence? SMH
I only ever made one electrical item my entire life - but , I still think it's worth sharing with others . Basically , I just used a 100' manual reel and fit 200' on it . Works great just be careful to not twist the cord too much or too little and I let the two ends meet outside of the reel so there's more reel space and easy access without needing to unroll to run a split or whatnot . Thanks for the video . Y'all are awesome .
I would mount the last grey outlet turned 180 degrees. You see at 23:30 how a right angle plug blocks the second outlet. Reverse the outlet, and you can use a right angle plug in the lower, or outer spot, and leave the other outlet available if needed. Great video!
The vacuum part surprised me, I hadn't really thought about it before but I assumed when it was clogged that it would be pulling harder to overcome the clog therefor drawing more current, turns out I was wrong. Every day I learn something new!
Yep, the vacuum draws less power due to the partial vacuum it creates behind the impeller. The motor has less drag since there's no more air to move and it starts spinning faster (hence the louder noise). One thing to keep in mind though is that since the vacuum is not moving any air through the filter it's also not moving any air through the motor. This means that the motor won't get cooled anymore and it may overheat.
The blades in a fan are like airplane wings -- when you have a proper angle of attack, the wing produces lift to support the plane's weight, which also produces drag (load). As a plane slows, the angle of attack between the wing and the air increases until the air no longer flows smoothly over the wing; when that happens (a "stall"), both lift and drag are decreased. So, like the airplane wing, the blower blades stall, not moving air, and not loading the motor as much because, as others have said, little energy is being used to do work. That floored me for the longest time, too, until I became a pilot and thought of the lift / drag in that context.
Jordan, I've got to say great camera work. You do a fantastic job filing your Dad as he's doing the work. I think you could pitch a show to the Home Channel on TV, you guys are way better than some of the other Home Improvement DIYers channels out there.
Probably comes from long experience of holding a flashlight. Similar activity: Point and keep steady on the work, predict what the next activity is so you can point to where the attention should be. I must say that I got plenty of that training as a wee young kid, myself.
When I was a kid, I remember my Dad and Grandpa trying to teach me stuff like this all the time. But I was to young to understand and appreciate it. Just ranomdly today TH-cam decided to share your videos with me and it's been great.
Darn you, I just made your SUPER extension cord now you show me an ULTIMATE extension cord. I can't keep up with your great ideas. I'm retired and no longer take on the scale of projects you so easily tackle, so I guess I'll live with my SUPER extension cord. It was a fun project. You both produce great videos that are so great to watch. Keep up the great work. Stay safe.
You are a fount of know-how! You just gave away so many electrician’s secrets that now even my grandmother could do a living room renovation! What a valuable video for somebody just getting started and needed to know exactly what was needed for wiring! (with the exception of three-way switches)!
In Ham Radio we often add meters to our panels to monitor voltage and amps on our rigs. This is especially helpful on mobile setups where you might be operating from a battery. Having a small LED display about the size if your green light would be handy to make sure you don't overload the circuit.
@@henderson1914 I get mine from Temu, AliExpress, Banggood or Ebay, whichever is cheapest. Make sure you verify their readings, sometimes the cheap ones will be inaccurate by 10% or so, but as long as you know, you can compensate. They have voltage ones, and ones which will display voltage and current both. Even ones which will display voltage, current and frequency if you are running off a generator.
I used to drive a truck delivering stud packs to job sites. I really love y'all's channel. My late stepdad who I loved very much was a General contractor like you. He taught me so many cool things that I still think about today. When I watch you and hear your voice explaining stuff, maybe it's the kind tone you have, it just makes me feel like my stepdad is watching with me.
Hey man thank you. I binge watched this channel the past 2 weeks on my free time. I love this. My dad past away oh cancer 6 years ago. He was a handy man and showed me these tricks. But I’m learning so much more.
Sorry for your loss. Paul is a great father figure and his interaction with his son shows a really good dynamic where he's passing on wisdom without being arrogant or elitist. Especially when his son (or the internet) has ideas different from what years of experience has taught him.
For some reason this video speaks to me. My Father is like a God from what everyone says when it comes to home improvement and I've been around it my whole life so when you mentioned your son records you it touched me man. I love it
Hi Stud Pack , I am a electrician in Quebec Canada , I love your videos keep it up. The reason it didn't trip right away, is it wasn't a short circuit , try it again but wait longer so the breaker heats up and goes on overload , it should trip . But there are lots of old panels like commander and FPE panels that are notorious for not tripping on overload conditions. Electrical panels do need to be tested after 20-25 years .
I do a lot of DYI cords and repairs. I take additional steps on the wire ends after stripping. I solder the ends of the wires before clamping. Never had a problem with loose screws. Just the way I do it.
25:55 My Dad was a Navy man in Vietnam. He learned this fact there and explained to me no less than 100 times. Which in hind sight was good because it took me about 20 to really grasp. When the impeller is able to move fluid linearly in flow, it constantly encounters new, axially stationary, fluid and then has to introduce torque. When the flow stops, the impeller puts torque onto the fluid, which remains linearly stationary, and the system becomes a flywheel. And we all know a flywheel take a lot of energy to get up to speed, but very little to keep at speed. I was probably 4 years old the first time I heard this and 8 before I could finish his story for him. Thanks for the memories, Stud Pack. ☮❤🌈🧘🏽🕉☸☯
A blower with squirrel cage fan also increases in speed when it's blocked on the airflow. The load test with the saws would have seen a very large increase in current draw of they were actually cutting wood rather than just free spinning; it's not very representative of their power draw just by turning them on.
My dad, also a Navy Man in Vietnam, went on to civic life as an electrical engineer, though his tradecraft was as Master Electrician. Mom was a public school teacher. A proud union family we were! When I was a kid I was "asked" to crawl around under houses (spiders, snakes, rats, even bats!) and in attics (either bitter cold or abominably hot...plus vermin and insects of every kind. Wasp bites were especially fun while rolling around in fiberglass in July heat.) But he made working hard fun. I got to swear like an actual sailor, trade barbs, take a ribbing and had lots of laughs. So cool to see Stud Pack guys as father/son team. That is rare! Like your pops, I paid a passive ear to his 'splainin as a kid. And though he's passed now, I can still recall hundreds of rhyming schemes, anecdotes and shorthand! I literally apply those mnemonic devices in physics, math, chemistry and weekend handyman projects now, As an adult who's also an engineer (of a different flavor), I'll always fall back on Dad's sage advice in tricky situations. @StudPack you guys do fantastic work! Love the channel!
Not only was this a great video it also showed items that many of us most likely never knew existed. The receptacle with the USB option not only saves counter space it eliminates the necessity for the little “brick” transformers which are just clutter once you’re done charging an item. The plug end gfi was another bonus.
This is a good point and as someone who does their own electrical it is not a big deal for me to install the USB charging receptacles in my house. The issue I have, is that the USB charging standards keep evolving. i.e., they used to be 5w, then 10w, now some phones are upwards of 100w charging capabilities. Also the underlying protocol used (ex one of the newest is PD3.0 with PPS) keeps changing for optimal fast charging. So in the end, I prefer to swap bricks than to keep swapping receptacles. That being said, I think its a great addition to this extension cord where you want less clutter.
@@glennda5id my son is a six year Tesla employee and he says fast charging harms a battery and slower is better. Using those cars as an example charging at home is far better than repeatedly using the supercharger stations. I have new/newer apple products and they came with larger wattage bricks but opt for the slower one as there is no need to rapid charge them. It’s personal choice.
These Stud Pack how-to videos are quite possibly the BEST of their kind on You Tube.!!! They are at once instructional, understandable, complete and detailed without being pedantic or arcane, humorous and fun to watch, and the camera work is outstanding!!!!!! Count me as a Number One FAN!!!👍👍👌👌😁 😄
Yes, wago connectors, nice to see them being used. Actually my favourite takeaway was the mounting board with cable wrapping ears and a carrying handle, that’s a neat idea
Watching your videos reminds me of working with my dad, God rest his soul. Bud, cherish these days of working with the old man. You will never forget the life lessons weaved throughout his common sense work ethics and skills. Love your Stud Pack videos, thanks. Oh, and I have some old heavy duty cords from my Dad, I know what I'm doing with em this weekend.
I see one improvement I would make. I would have the cord wrap BELOW the outlet boxes. That way I could use the boxes with unwrapping just a few feet of wire. The way it is now, you have the wire blocking the boxes. BTW, this is my first time watching your videos and I liked / subscribed.
@@jamesalles139 While certainly true, it is not really a factor in this application because the things being plugged in are generally motor-driven devices which already create a lot of line "noise," fluctuating magnetic fields, etc. If your application is so sensitive to these minor data points, you would engineer it to a much tighter standard. They already "over" engineered using the hospital-grade receptacle.
That has got to be the most awesome extension cord of all time. Reminds me of the ones we built when I was in trade school in sixties. We had the auto shop weld up some stands. We then attached two eight inch square boxes and wired in two duplex receptacles in each with thirty feet of 12/3 stranded cable. Great job site cords but know where near yours. Of course it was 1966.
My dad passed away in March, of this year. He had the same type of extension cords you have, heavy duty black, and even one with the double outlet on the end (no GCFI tho). Seeing this, I'm now going to re-purpose his cords, for the ultimate extension cord, and memory. Made my day sirs. Ty. -George
Of course you knew you were going to get comments on your ultimate extension cord. Before you paint with the flex drill 2 holes in the top of the board 16" on center. When you're at a job site with open bays, you can fasten it right up to the wall and the holes will be premade in your wood to mount on the stud's. Even without it's a fantastic device!
Lol, I understand it's a older video and this is my second time watching it. But, I couldn't help but smile remembering your opening statement about how you got bombarded with "you did that wrong" "my cousins uncles brother does it differently and he has been doing it for thirty years so he knows" so you produce a follow up video to address all of those keyboard warriors concerns. Couple of points, thank you for the shop vac explanation, I had no idea. Second I really enjoyed seeing some of the pieces that as a DIY person we do not normally see. Thanks for another great video brother.
It used to be. Now it's all just contrived content and clickbait. It was much better when it was organic. It's what got people watching and then they sold out. It's cringy, now. At best. I revoked my subscription when I started realizing it was all for profit, now.
@@DiffEQ So what if they make more money? That's the dream we all have, isn't it? We watch two down to Earth guys with some great skills for free, anytime; you don't have to pay anything. Plenty of time for plenty of more content that's more your style.
@@literallymyusername8291 I didn't say there was anything wrong with making more money. And, no, that is not "the dream we all have." If it was, none of us would have served in the military or decided to teach in the public school system. What you didn't respond to is what I actually stated as my reasons for no longer enjoying/supporting the channel.
Awesome video guys! I’ve done some wiring as well, totally within my wheelhouse to tackle something like this. Also, I like how you didn’t “dismiss” the safety “Karens” out there, but actually incorporated their suggestions! Very cool!
Love this! I was gonna buy an expensive power strip bar with led lights and USB built-in for my shop, but now I'm inspired to build a custom one and add an auxiliary twist-lock whip and breaker for my generator. Thanks Stud Pack!
I know it was just a throwaway comment, but I had to say this; a set of Felo automatic strippers made my workflow so much better. I build a lot of custom electronics and AV/data systems. Stripping wires to the proper length in 2-5 seconds rather than 15-30 can turn a 16 hour day into 10 hours.
Although I don't remember exactly how long ago it was but somewhere in the neighborhood of 25 years ago I was faced with an extension cord with a bad female end. I didn't have a replacement handy but I did have a metal two gang box and some receptacles, so I put them on the end of the cord and still have that cord today. It makes a pretty versatile extension cord where I can actually plug in four different things. It's really handy when you're working on a job and you're using a drill and a saw and a light and God knows what else and you can plug them all into the one cord so you don't have to unplug something to plug something else in every time you want to switch tools. Anyway, great video that is an awesome ultimate extension cord.
I have been wiring devices all my life. With few alterations I think this was spot on. As usual I would personalize it for my own particular needs...but it was the best homeowner instruction level one yet. I did a 240 volt 50 amp one off of a range plug and a small subpanel. It had 240v, 120v and gfi protection. DEFINITELY not water resistant or OSHA approved. I can weld with it and run anything 120v ..with full breaker protection. Not pretty either.
I had a great time watching this video. I’m a novice, just getting started working on the farm. Sixteen years old. I learned so much. And there’s even more information in the comments.
I made up a cord and box exactly like yours minus the USB plugs ( it was before everyone needed a USB plug to survive the day) I made mine using 12G SO cord, 100 feet long and it’s laid out in sun light, rain, snow, ice and anything Mother Nature can throw at it and it’s still working great, with hardly no voltage drop too
Great video, i made one based on this video except one change. I used an outdoor box with a cover over the outlets when stuff is plugged in. I did that for the rare times one of my kids grab it to power their campsite in the rain. It is great.
I like it! The one change I will make is a spool because wrapping cords around static cord storage twists them. I like a detachable cord (from the board), with one of those sunk-in cord sockets, which helps with the spool being simple as well as allows any extension-cord to be use. Thanks guys!
First of all, awesome build!!! I’m not an electrician but I would like to attempt an answer to the question of why the breaker didn’t trip when it was overloaded. My answer is because the circuit is protected by a GFCI breaker which are designed to protect people from electrical shock, rather than prevent damage to a building's wiring. It does that by monitoring the current on the hot wire and the neutral wire and as long as the current on both wires is the same it will not trip. It will only trip after the wires become melted from the overloaded circuit and become shorted out. The shorted hot wire will then and only then cause the GFCI breaker to trip.
Nice job as always guys, love your videos! Not an electrician, just a DIY enthusiast, but a couple things stuck out to me: 1. You only need stranded wire if the wire can be moved around (e.g. the extension cord bit, or in a flexible conduit) - internal to the boxes between devices can be solid without issue, and would be easier to connect. 2. Seems to me if you have a 20-amp receptacle, I think technically you'd need a 20 amp plug on the supply end to physically prevent you from using a 15-amp outlet. I suspect that inline GFCI is only rated for 15 amps. 3. It's a shame the strain relief on this one didn't have the flexible spring to prevent hard angles at the connection. Keep killing it! :D
@@TheDarthJesus All the portal power tools I have are only 8a. Most 20a tools have some weight to them and will not be carries from job site to job site, such as a drill press, bandsaw, or a lathe.
@@gn02020202 oh absolutely. I was simply saying that using the 20a plug on this "super extension cord" for a 20a tool, while plugging it into a standard 15a receptacle (which is rated for 12a continuous current as per the 80% rule) would cause the breakers to trip.
This is a fantastic project. Real men improve shit and prove they are secure in their self worth by listening to feedback instead of getting defensive. Love it!
Great job guys. I too am an Electrician, but i think the overload has been well explained as to what's happening. Loved your super extension. Thanks for sharing 😃
You thought the 12AWG stranded falling of the ground screw was something to "love"? No 15A receptacle is designed to hold a 12AWG stranded conductor on a ground as it is NOT a current carrying conductor and is actually sized smaller than the requisite 14AWG. He's two gauges too large and that screw is NOT holding it as he claims.
Was typing out the thermal trip function, and just saw @Riles223 explanation, which is perfect. One thing I noticed though: You went to a lot of effort to select equipment that would be water tight, from the fantastic GFCI plug to the water resistant strain relief with the o-ring seal for the cord going into the first box. But then you used standard plates instead of seal-tight plates, which would help keep moisture out of the boxes from the front. Which is fine, you'll most likely have the unit in a garage most of the time, so it's not like you need water-resistant dome covers or anything, but I thought at least seal the box edges. It surprised me. One suggestion you could do, IF you had to have the box out in the elements, is to caulk the box edges and then re-secure the plates. Kind of a makeshift solution, but it does seal the box itself. Just a thought. But I love the idea, I have a power unit in my wood shop with a variety of connections, I love it. And I love that you made yours portable, I love the cable wrap and handle (very clever adaptation), you guys clearly put a lot of thought into it. VERY user friendly. Good stuff. Great video.
As a retired electrician I complement you on the extension cord. However I must throw a word of caution about the paddle connections. For this application it probably wouldn't be a problem but having years experience in the oilfield electrial equipment and vibrations having a tight twist on the stranded wire under the paddle connectors will become a loose connection. The natural twist of the wire is good. The tight twist over time will relax.
It explain why we needed to re-screw connections of breaker box and terminals after a day or 2, to be sure the wire werent loose. Solid wires needed little tighting, but stranded wire where the always loose. So, we twisted too much ! Thanks !
Also a retired wireman. Whenever I would find stranded wires under a screw in this manner, the thought that would come to mind is that the guy who wired it was just plain lazy.
Good video, Stud pack. Randomly came cross this older video of yours, i have been watching the new carage build videos like grazy everytime a new episode comes out! One thing i may add about the cord: here in Finland, i was taught in school to always make the cords ends connected so that the 3 wires inside the cable would be so that the ground is the longest wire, then the neutral the second longest and finally the hot to be the shortest cut of all the wires. This is so that even if the strain relief fails, the hot wire is the one that gets yanked out of the connection first, so that it would disconnect first in case of a fault. Neutral second because if the neutral would be the first to disconnect, it may in some cases destroy some appliances with the hot still connected. i think its because the electricity sometimes finds a other route inside the device and it can potentially be very bad for the device, like frying circuit boards and etc. Ground finally the longest so that the device is always grounded in case of something ripping the cable straight out of the cord. Happens more often than you think.
I built version one a couple of months ago and I love it. I will probably build a simpler version of this super ext cord, but I’m not a fan of that huge yellow GFI box. Love the built-in mount/cord wrap and love that it’s rubberized. The point is you guys pointed out that the bus bars we build are far better than the ones sold in the big box stores. They are also customized to our needs.
Well, I'm not an electrician and I don't even play one on TV so I thought it was an awesome build and I applaud you guys for teaching a newbie like me how to be safer. All of the commenters that are telling you that you're doing it wrong can pound sand for all I care!
Definitely using this idea at work. I do the same type of work as you 2 and love watching your content to see how you guys do things down south as I'm up in Vermont. This will definitely help on the jobs when we're packing places to plug in and keep the cord from getting tangled when it's in the job trailer. Keep up the great work 😁 👍
Love you guys thanks for all you do. I'm a retired electrician from Children's Hospital of Phila. And electrical Instructor. Suggest when using stranded wire under a screw terminal, twist the strands in the opposite direction so strands won't come out from under the screw head. God bless.
The first video I ever saw of yours was the extension cord repair video you mentioned at the beginning. It was a YT recommended video. I've watch every one since, and gone back to watch a lot of your older videos. Keep up the great (team) work.
Breaker didn't trip instantly because its being overloaded and not short-circuited. It'll take a few seconds to a minute to trip at only 8 amps of overload current and that's normal. Higher current overloads will trip it faster.
Just something to add to explain it a little better, there’s a strip of metal or a spring inside the breaker. 8A of overload will heat that metal up, making it softer. Over time that metal will deflect or bend, thereby causing the breaker to trip.
@@JeremyPeters Jeremy is correct. The breaker is thermally activated so if you allowed the 28 amps to continue for a period of time (rather than just a few seconds) it would indeed trip.
@@JeremyPeters Just like how turn signals used to work in cars, before they went electronic. The current from the incandescent turn signal bulbs would heat up the bi-metallic strip inside of the signal relay, making it deflect, cool down, and reconnect itself automatically for each flash. It's what causes the clicking sound you hear when you use your blinkers. Though, modern cars use LEDs, and electronic flashers. So the clicking sound you hear now-a-days is faked.
@@northernlightsrenovations1710 Most breakers trip and are able to be reset. Does the metal return to the original shape allowing it to be reset? Does a short just heat the metal to a deformation instantly then? last question, another TH-cam channel explained how an automatic analog rice cooker works using thermal deformation and a magnet like the old dial thermostats, does a breaker work the same way? Thanks for the response and explanation.
just watched both of the extension cord videos. I also had issues with the metal box (but it's so Robust that it needed a fix), this version of the extension cord is much more than we need. So the Original version is what we Made with some improvements. I live in the pacific north west we get rain from October to May so water is a problem on any job site. My solution was to fill all unused holes with JB Weld I also used some 80 grit sandpaper on the interior faces of the box and sprayed the interior with the flex seal rubber coating. I also used exterior plug covers so the unused plugs are sealed when not in use (the metal flip up kind with a gasket seal on each socket). I also take the time to place a pice of plastic tarp over the box and we always put it on top of something so its not directly on the ground, just incase we get a sudden shower while we're working. we tend to put up shade roofs over our tools again just incase. Remember kids electricity will kill you if you let it. Be Safe!!
Your typical circuit breaker has two trip modes, a magnetic and a thermal. The magnetic will trip instantly for high currents like a dead short, while the thermal portion can handle brief overloads to allow motors and other high inrush devices to start. The datasheet for the breaker will have the curves, but typically most will handle 200% for about 10 seconds, 150% for 100 seconds.
Love it! On mine, I’m going to put the high capacity receptacle closer to the cord and not at the end of two sets of 12g jumpers so it gets first dibs on current coming into the boxes. I’ll switch a 15a receptacle instead of the 20a since that’s more likely where I’ll be plugging in lights, and I think I’ll mount the indicator light on the side of the last box. Since I have to drill a hole anyway it may as well be on the side. That’ll free up a position for another receptacle. If you wrap the cord in a figure ‘8’ pattern for storage it won’t put twists in the cord.
Rotate the boxes 90 degrees. The wire on plugs that point down will tangle up across the other plugs. Having them point out instead of along the unit. Great job. Loved the hospital plug info. Great for heavy use and heavy load.
I made one of these for my mobile work bench. It has a switched 20 amp outlet in the first box and two 15 amp outlets in the second. I don't need more than that, but because I used the same bell boxes and a 2 in. conduit nipple to connect them, there's always room for expansion!
As a 20 year contractor I found your video to be very entertaining, educational, and useful. My OCD flared up when you mismatched the colors on the plates and plugs, but AL in all, a great vid guys as usual. Thanks for representing the construction field so well. Keep up the awesome vids.
26:16 Okay, last Dad comment (on this video :-) for you. When you wrap a cord in a loop as you are doing, you are introducing a twist. The conductors inside are twisted, and the strands of each conductor are also twisted. This compounding effect is what causes old cords to the get the "umbilical cord" damage. However, with the quality of cord you are using here, that is never going to become apparent (as evidenced by the age of this 3 generation cord). Even so there is still a good reason to use my Dad's Navy wrap method. The Navy wrap is to make a figure eight on the side opposite the handle. This has 1 immediate benefit of not obstructing the outlets. But also each pair of wraps is a 1/2 twist minus a 1/2 reverse twist. Here's an exercise: If you extend the cord only 1 foot because that is all you need at first but then later decide to take out the rest of the cord to move your tool farther away, you can do so without unplugging anything. The cord will be straight. No twists. Try that exercise both ways. It's mind blowing.
Came across this video and loved every minute of it. More joy when I realized I was already subscribed! The comment section is absolutely amazing as well. Great community!
Small suggestion that I’ve seen on British plugs. They leave a bit of slack on the neutral and a little more on the ground so that, if something pulls the cord out of the plug, they detatch in a specific order - live 1st & ground last.
Good idea.. almost makes up for centuries of the British empire terrorizing most of the globe with rape and pillage. We wouldn't want the king's fancy little fingers getting the zap zap.
You can also use a seam ripper (used for removing stitches in clothes) to cut the wire shield off, it works for automotive wire harnesses good. Love the videos!!
I worked with a retired AVCM (Don Noise) for a short time; who told me he also used a seam ripper to cut “spot tie” on on wiring harnesses. He was absolutely correct works much better than dykes, knife or scissors. Thanks for the tip.
You may or may not believe this, but since I saw your original video I've been using your trick to remove the outer covering for a power cord. No nicks in any of the conductors. I can personally attest that it works for cords up to 10awg, 4 conductors. One of the best things I ever learned off TH-cam.
Love the build. One thing I would be concerned about is the life span of those cover plates. Corners have a good chance of snagging. A frame around the boxes so they have something to sit on should be an easy fix.
If you look in the datasheets for most circuit breakers, they have the over-current to hold time graph, which is a curve. at a low amount over the rated current it will take quite a while (up to an hour) for the breaker to trip - 15.5 amps in a 15 amp circuit for example. As the draw goes up, the hold time drops. A 60 amp draw would almost instantaneously trip a 15 amp breaker. Mechanically why this happens has been covered in many comments. Why this is a good thing... hasn't. Breakers can be designed to trip instantaneously for any peak over the rated current, but this provides no extra protection, and very well might cause problems with high draw devices like motors, that can draw great amounts of current at startup, but level off very quickly (inrush current). A few seconds above the rated current isn't going to heat the wires in the walls significantly, and since the breaker is only there to protect those wires (....and nothing else), there's no value in making it trip any faster.
Yeah, being able to hold a surge current for even a short amount of time is important. We don't want a circuit to break every time an Air Conditioner brings its outdoor unit online as an example.
electroBOOM on youtube had a video where he put 100 amps through a 20 amp breaker and nothing. he got the data sheet and it said something like it can take anywhere from 60 secs to 5 seconds to trip based on the amps running though it.
@@Styrofo4m GCDIs are made to protect humans. Breakers and fuses are made to protect equipment and prevent structural fires. The main specification for a fuse or breaker is that the circuit breaks before the cable causes a fire, or hopefully break something.
In most countries gcdis and breakers tend to be one and the same. In USA this is not the case often only having ground fault protection to select few rooms.
Hi I'm just a DYI guy, but like the power bar. I did borrow your general idea and added a one piece plywood backer under the switch plates. I found when you wrap the cord or plug in a device that is tight, the sides of the plate's were always breaking. Also made a portable vertical stand with a shelf that I can use were ever I go. Shelf can hold charging phones, boom box, etc. thanks :)
Awesome job! Those screws on the sides of electrical outlets are very interesting. I used to think they were a combination of Slotted and Phillips, but I was wrong. Slotted screwdrivers don’t work well as they can slide around too easily. Phillips head screwdrivers in those screws work better, but these screws are not designed for Phillips drive. You can see in the middle of the screw a square hole (not a pointed Phillips hole). This is called a Robertson drive (square drive). It fits perfectly (no sliding) and allows you to easily drive them even in odd positions. You can buy Robertson drivers at most tool outlets, but there is an even better solution that I recently discovered. Milwaukee makes an ECX driver that is specifically for electrical work (insulated down to the tip). The ECX driver is a combination of Slotted and Robertson drives. It’s been great for my amateur electrical work. It comes in two sizes - #1 is for normal stuff. (Jordan - Father’s Day is coming).
klein also makes screwdrivers labeled c1 and c2 for combination screws it is on my 15 in 1 ratcheting screwdriver from them it is starting to show up in newer assorted screwdriver tips packs also
A breaker is a Thermo-Magnetic over current protection device. The '' Thermo'' portion of the breaker consist of a bi-metallic* strip of metal that is heated by a resistor in series with the load *( two dissimilar metals fused together, each having their own thermal expansion coefficient, thus creating a curve in the metal strip when subjected to a heat source. ). this flexion of the bi metallic strip of metal is used to trigger the breaker opening mechanism. the bigger the overload, the faster it heats up, the quicker it trigger. On the other hand, in the event of a pure short circuit, the Amps drawn can easily climb to 1000 amps on a 15 amps line in a fraction of a second, too fast for the bi-metallic system to react in order to prevent the wires from glowing red. This is where the ''Magnetic'' portion of the breaker comes into play, inside the breaker the load/amps have to pass thru a coil of wire that act as an electro-magnet, but just when huge amount of current pass thru it, so when a pure short is present with thousands of amps, the electro-magnet pulls the triggering mechanism of the breaker and opens the circuit. Simple design, very effective.
I would say the ohms resistance on this build extension cord is one of the best in the industry compared against other multiple outlets connectors. which is why others burn up. I believe the breaker is set to an average resistance for the regular consumer and bc this was diy built the breaker did not trip. but thats not a real world test bc nothing like that is ever that close each tool is usally in its own area so may be adding some 25 ft to 50 ft extension cords would really load test the breaker and and and the load when cutting is higher so may be performing an actual cut for testing will pull more than 28 amps for sure
@@randacnam7321 That is very true and hospitals and other more health related places have thermal protection and magnetic action as does homes or residential. Canadian standards now do not accept any breakers that do not have at minimum Thermal and magnetic trips.
Years ago, I was at a safety meeting. A picture was shown of an extension cord wrapped around a "cord keeper" and had over heated overheated and caught fire. That impressed upon me so much that to this day 40 some years later, I always completely uncoil the extension from any "keeper" so the cord can have air circulate around it. My kids were small at that time and I instilled upon them and my wife to completely remove the cord, irregardless the length so it can "breathe". Granted the picture at the safety meeting was a worse-case scenario. I do like your complete idea, and am thinking about building my version, but I will have to unwrap the cord every time just because of that safety meeting picture. Thanks for the new cord.
@@PhilDeGuzman I fried a nice Belden retractable cord when I used a Milwaukee heat gun and failed to pull the cord all the way out. Pulled out about 5', plugged in the heat gun and about 5 mins later... smoke and the smell of melting insulation!
Paul and Jordan you guys are next level. I am currently finishing a media room that includes 11 speakers and a 47" direct vent zero clearance gas fireplace. When i get a break i really enjoy watching and learning from your content!!!!
I love that I found your video. You must know, my dad passed away two years ago, and I would have loved watching your video with him. Also I know youre right, your dad would be proud of that. Greetings from México man.
Really usefull idea! For better safety always make the protective wire longer than hot and cold wire, so that it's the last wire that can be drawn loose in the case of a loosen clamping plate.
note about vacumn cleaner, the motor needs the air flow to cool itself. Free spinning clogged vacumn is overheating the motor. Great Video guys, Love the channel
I thought about making one like the smaller one you guys made but with an outlet with USB-A. However seeing the plywood backer for the cord wrap feature and hole to hang it got me thinking and possible add a few other features like a cradle to hold a phone while it charges. Maybe a little shelf with a hinge and kickstand.
Made 2 of the first cords. now I'll add this, as a custom cabinet builder these cords help big time onsite. I've seen them on jobsite but your video pushed me to finally make them, thank you.
Here in Norway, you are supposed to use some metallic ends on the multi stranded cables when connecting it to a socket. Solid is fine. Wires with 8-12 strands is fine. But on the cables that have dusins of strands you are supposed to crimp on a thingy, don't know the english word for it. But when putting it in a wago you dont need that.
Screws on the outlet plates all aligned vertically; nice attention to detail. I thought I was the only one OCD enough to do that :). Great video; thx!!
Just FYI there are tons of products out there which will charge devices via USB-C, but the part where you're referring to being able to charge an iPhone 12 from 0% to 100% in ~1hr is because of Power Delivery. This IS proprietary to USB-C, but not all USB-C chargers feature Power Delivery. If you want this kind of high speed charging you need to make sure that your device is capable of charging with Power Deliver, and you charger is specifically designed to do Power Delivery, (often called USB-C PD accompanied by a wattage rating like 18W, 20W, 30W, etc...). If you don't see any mention of Power Delivery on a charger you're thinking about buying, then it does not have it. They are more expensive, but well worth it.
Also QC 3.0 is usually around 15-18w and higher voltage than typical 5v USB. There's getting to be way to many variations. I got a nice little USB volt/amp tester that tells ya exactly what it's at. I also recently got a multi port 60w PD and QC3.0 supply that tells you volts and amps of each port when a device is activated. You can see the power curve as the device gets charged. Kinda cool.
Great team you guys are on camera. I live in SF Bay Area It's good to see you and your son working together. Most of the kids out here don't work in the trades or with their parents. They are lazy! I grew up working with my dad times never forgotten.
Great content as always! You always do a great job of the full explanation. Great point on the shop vac, its the principle of conservation of energy. The USB plug devices are the new best thing to add at strategic locations in a house. If one does ANY work on their home, this channel is must watch, hands down.
Awesome project !! I don’t know much about electricity and wiring, so this video is gonna help me freak out a couple friends when they get one for their birthday. They will love it.
Thank you guys. You both work your bootys off, and you still took time to make a fun personal video for all of us. Very generous and thoughtful. Boy oh boy doesn’t the world need more of that? 🥰 Y’all rock
There is a reason why the ends to plugs on a 20amp are different and it's so that people don't end up doing what you just did! a 20amp circuit has to be 20amp from front to load and for very good reasons. You have a inline GFCI that is rated at 15amp and it's at the beginning of a line that has a 20amp receptacle on it ( like in your test at 28 amp , which is almost double the rating! ) This could not only damage a 20amp motor due to the bottleneck as it would be forcing its way through sort of speak but also cause a fire. Now YES any extension cord can as well pass 15amp depending what you put on it but then your breaker would blow, but here your intent is to have a 20amp line (with the 20amp receptacle) which means it would have to be on a 20amp breaker and this is where it becomes possibly dangerous as the GFCI is not rated for the such! Furthermore you put the 20amp receptacle at the end which means 20amp of current would be going through multiple connections so are they all rated at 20amp ? when you have a line then with 20amp or 30amp etc.. then every thing that the current is passing through MUST be able to handle it. You can put higher rated mats on an equal or lower amp line but not the other way around. --------Solution----------- 1: Double entry plug - You have 2 GFCI plugs at the front end - 1 for 20amp circuits and 1 for 15amps like you already have on. so just install them both into small lean plastic box with a switch that either enables one line or the other because you would not want to have them both live!. 2: Put all the receptacle at the front end of the of load line and make sure they are all 20amps 3: Put usb lines after the receptacles so that max current does not flow through them. 4: Put light at the very end. so if it fails you know that there is something wrong somewhere in between the whole line. Breakers have tolerance! which means they delay before flipping to the off position. Many appliances can start off giving a spike in current but then lower and this is normal and for these reasons the breaker will tolerate having higher current passing through than its rated for but only for a small amount of time. NOTE: If you would have left on your devices during that test eventually the breaker would have tripped as it would have passed the breakers tolerance.
I love that y'all keep things as "live" as possible. Can't remove insulation on the first try? Tamper resistant receptacle being difficult? - Leave it in :)
Awesome as ever! Shouldn't the highest current receptacle be the first one on the daisy chain? The lightest load (the USB chargers) at the the far end. That way, the high current load doesn't have to go through a half dozen interconnects. It makes sense to put the high load socket and the pilot light in the first box so the high current is first on the line and the lamp let's us know power is coming in at the source. Though improbable, one of the connections in the middle of the boxes might fail. You still know the cord is hot. Keep up the great work, boys. If your video pops up in my recommendations, I get a piping hot cup of Joe, sit back and enjoy the show!
It makes no difference the order of receptacles, just because one device is able to pull 20 amps, doesn’t mean the rest of the devices are getting “high current”. Kitchens are required by code to be fed with 12 gage wire and 20amp breaker. It makes no difference if you are running several high amp appliances on a certain plug and then have your phone plugged into a different outlet…your phone isn’t going to fry with high current just because you other appliances are pulling 20amps. You also probably don’t even know the order the receptacles were wired anyway because it’s not an issue.
@@JSH1 We watched him wire it so we know its one box to the next meaning the switch and 20 amp outlet are at the end of the chain. I think you missed the point of his question because it had nothing todo with the wire being able to handle the current, your explanation may be valid but didn't answer the question. wires in the wall or box are unlikely to fail, especially when there is never stress on the wire, that's why code has them clamped to the box and within a certain distance of the box to a stud. His point was a physical connection is always going to be weaker than a solid wire. logic would say that the highest power should have the fewest possible disruptions to the current which leads to his question. Science or testing may show that the logic is incorrect, or does not have a significant difference to how it is wired.
@@trekie30122 I’m simply saying that it doesn’t matter on the order of 20 amp vs 15 amp plugs…note that 15amp duplex’s are rated for 20amps. There is no stress from box to box the way it’s installed. If he was connecting box to box with SO cord and not secured to a backer board then that would be a valid statement that the wires would be more stressed than a typical install.
@@JSH1 absolutely it does matter. If you have the 20amp receptical at the end and plug a device in that is pulling 20amps, then that middle 15amp receptacle has been overloaded as the power has to pass through that one first.
My one suggestion as an electrical engineer would be to place 20 amp outlet at the end where the line cord enters the first box and put the indicator lamp and hospital outlet at the far end. That would serve two purpose... it would keep the heavier current from passing through extra wiring and connections. Second having the indicator at the far end would indicate that power is actually getting to the farthest end of the unit!
except they used those wago bus bars to distribute the electrons, so each outlet was effectively the same distance from the main wire.
Can you explain the purpose of a 20A outlet when that GFCI plug is only rated for 15A?
@@amkelle2 - As stated in the video the 15A gfci can handle some overload although that is not ideal. You could usd a 20 Amp, inline gfci unit instead, but that might require you have access to a 20 Amp receptacle as the source power.
@@LarryCoates1948 To be fair, yes, I did not intently watch the whole video, I skipped through a lot of it to get the jist. But still, wouldn’t a 20A pull on a 15A outlet be unsafe? Or even pointless if the breaker is 15A
@@amkelle2 - it could be a problem but most likely not for a short term use. Long term yes ti would be a problem but would trip the breaker if it heated up for too long!
This was hands down one of the best instructional videos I have ever seen dealing with electricity. Knocked it right out of the park.
It is also cool you are a father son team. Lots of guys wish they had that growing up.
Plus you are still using your dad's electrical cords and they will be passed down to your son then his son in the future. The best part you are father and son, passing knowledge is what I truly love to do an teach my family how to fix and build things. I said family because I have an still teach my boys and girls how to do stuff. Teaching them is fun for me and they teach me new things as well. Making memories is what life is about isn't it. An you making videos of you both together is awesome. Better than the old time photo album our parents loved to bring out several times a year to look at.
Pro Tip: When tightening a cord into into a strain relief, press the cord inwards towards the connections on the device to de-strain them while you're tightening it down. This provides some slack inside the device and prevents strain-loading the connections during assembly.
And... great video, thanks!
Great Comment!!! (While Stud Pack may have done that by instinct and because of experience, and didn't mention it. That's great information for those of us that don't have that experience to fall back on!!! Thank you.)
That sounds like something learned from experience! An "Ask me how I know" bit of knowledge. Thanks!
Also, cut the hot wire a little shorter than the other two wires, so, if the strain relief does fail, hot wire is the first to get disconnected.
The ground wire should be longer than the other two. If stress on the cable causes wires to pull out or break, the hot or neutral will fail first - not the ground.
Love how this guy took the “know-it-all” suggestions and added ALL of them to the project. GENIUS!
This thing is incredible! Also love that when viewers suggest improvements, you guys listen instead of getting offended. Leads to an amazing solution like this. Great video as always. Love your channel.
Replete with expensive and completely unnecessary things. See my full comment for details. $15 for an indicator light? 12AWG stranded wire for a ground when even the current carrying conductors only need to be 14AWG solid?
This channel was much better when it was just a son helping and documenting his dad doing remodeling work. It's now to contrived and monetized. I have nothing against people making money for their hard work... but I do have a problem with contrived content and "shocking" thumbnails used to manipulate. It ruined the channel for me. Do you think everything they linked to the overpriced McMaster site isn't getting them something at OUR expense? Please.
@@DiffEQ They didn't link anything to McMaster-Carr, they are just part numbers to look up yourself. That uncharitable comment of yours says everything about your heart's intentions. Try to be more kind.
@@DiffEQ just because your name is Richard, doesn’t mean you have to be a Dick.
@Richard M Interesting you mention the price Richard. We had thousands and thousands of people pick apart a simple extension cord and tell us how we should've done it. But when we spend the $300 to build it how they want, it's "too expensive". It's still a son helping and documenting and of course it's contrived, like everything we do! Thumbnails are used to get people interested, and none of our thumbnails lie or mislead. If you have a problem with attention grabbing Thumbnails, maybe TH-cam isn't for you bud. We put part numbers up for McMaster and we receive no kickback and we rarely post Amazon links even though we get hundreds of people telling us we need to do so. We don't like to respond to comments bred from negativity, but everything you said is blatantly wrong, and you should know that.
- Jordan 😎
@@StudPack To be fair, quite a significant amount of your electrical "guides/suggestions" don't follow electrical code, and are unsafe/hacks that professionals are constantly having to fix. This went from a cool father/son channel to something cringe-worthy when your explanations/excuses for doing things illegally/wrong become video topics.
Stick to what you're good at?
EXCELLENT VIDEO! My dad was an electrician for 47 years and he taught me to be conservative and cautious in order to keep things safe. It was GREAT to see you carefully use many of the tricks that he taught me as well as many of the tips I’ve developed over the years thanks to his careful training. Cable stripping, strain relief, proper use of tools and adapters… you hit them all.
Hats off as well to your commenters, who taught me all sorts of useful and interesting things that even 30+ years of well-informed DIY work had left me wondering about.
I’ve subscribed to your channel, and I’m planning a “binge watch” to prep for some upcoming projects!
The super extension cord video was the first video of Stud Pack that I watched. Since then, I have watched every video of yours. I’m hooked. Great content, loads of fun and Paul’s personality has really come thru since your first video. Love the father son interaction and that Jordan is so respectful. I have a few tools of my fathers and grandfathers and really cherish them like you do with your fathers extension cord. Got to give Jordan a shot out. I assume this was his idea and the filming has been terrific. I’m not in the trades so Paul’s ability to clearly explain the work and tricks of the trade is excellent. He has a real gift.
Having grown up in northern Florida, the heat and humidity is gruesome. So I know the conditions you are working in. The only video that was hard for me to watch was when you were installing pipe under the patio for a toilet. Paul looked whipped by the heat but he prevailed. I looked and felt the same way when working road construction in the summer in Fla. Thanks for such a fun and interesting channel. Keep it going.
Same here!
The first video I watched was the first extension cord build. I have watched every video since. All very well done and edited. I consider myself a jack of all trades and a master of none and have learned many things watching this channel.
Yep, same here. Glad I found your channel!
Me too!! I made something similar to the first ext cord project years ago and watched to see if maybe I could improve it. Then I got hooked on the whole Stud Pack attitude. And I was like, "that guy sounds like people I know." I live in Texas now but I've got family all over SE LA including BR.
You guys are awesome and I really appreciate it that you keep a positive happy attitude. Keep up the good work. God bless.
Same!
Pro Tip: When you are twisting stranded wire, twist in the opposite direction. You may notice that when you cinch the ground screw it tends to splay the wire. The reverse twist is in the same direction as the cinching of the screw so it actually squeezes the wire in the same direction as the twist making a "better" connection.
Ya know Bob....I would even go further and solider the twists..no freedom wire exposed....easier to insert.
Stud man....gotta love that old wire...they made em well 40 to 50 years ago. Also, congrats no blood!
I would go even further here honestly. Over time, a soldered stranded wire end will warp due to heat and pressure when places in a screw terminal. Instead, crimp and solder the wire end in a ring terminal and put the screw through that
Without that extra step, the "contact resistance" will continue to increase over time and can cause a fire
I'll give it a try!🙂
@@codewonderland-gaming Just crimp it, no solder
Ha ha…you are giving code enforcement and fire marshals across the world heartburn for sure with this project. Love it.
I guessed right on the USB outlets, but you left out my second device. I was expecting a load sensing circuit to power up your shop vac whenever you started your saw. Maybe video three.
Final comment is solid wire inside would be fine. Nothing should be moving inside these boxes. The stranded wire just made it harder to wire up like on that ground screw.
Thanks for the entertainment.
I'd add a power monitor to the rig that can display the voltage, current, and power factor. They're available for a very low price and will let you see at a glance if you're approaching the limits. Basically a small panel display with a current sensor that you run the feed wire through. It'll add a Kill-A-Watt function to make it more ultimate. 😉
Been doing industrial maintenance like ~6-7 years now and grew up in a home where we did everything DIY. Had literally zero knowledge that there was a stranded and solid side to strippers. Learn something new every single day, as long as you allow yourself to admit when you don't know.
Idk if I would advertise not being aware of super basic details like that. It says more about you as a worker in your trade than it does about the quality of this video 😂😂
@@SlapperGlutesTwice I'm not going to pretend. If you can't admit you don't know something you don't keep yourself open to learning. In any trade, if you keep your eyes and ears open, you learn something new every single day.
Me too, I just learned it today! I love these videos Thanks !
Depends on the strippers you use. I prefer the self adjusting jaw strippers or.just do it by feel. Most electricians I've ever come across strip by feel.
I work in industrial electronics at a wire manufacturer, just to inform, the copper size is likely smaller than actual gauge size regardless of solid/strand. do you think they are just giving copper away?
Most new breakers have 2 trip methods. One is magnetic which works primarily during a fault. The second is a bimetal coil, similar to an old fashion thermostat, this is the one that handles general overloads. Depending on the manufacturer, age, and use of the breaker it can take time for the coil to heat up and trip. Certain manufacturer like Zinsco and Federal Pacific wont trip and you get the smokey house effect. We hope there isn’t one in the house you’re at. It is perfectly normal to hit a higher amperage on a breaker for a short period of time before the coil snaps. I have seen a 20 amp breaker hit 25 amps and hold for 10 minutes. Ultimately heat is what trips the breaker in an overload and it takes time for the heat to build up and trip the breaker. If you had a thermometer on you at the time of the video, you most likely could have identified the breaker you were using by the amount of heat it would have been producing. How ever I don’t suggest replicating the scenario to try it. Overloading a circuit is never a good thing. The more heat a breaker takes on the easer it trips the next time.
Great video! I got out of remodeling to became an electrician. I mis the remodel world. I watch your videos and you guys always have some new concept or product that I have never seen. There are a lot of new products that has come out in the last several years. I really liked the cabinet leveling kit. I switched to air bags just before I got out of the business, but this little gizmos you guys used knocked the socks off the airbags. I can’t wait to see the next video.
Excellent response to the question about the trip time, also the trip time is delayed for the inrush current of high inductive loads.
@@TopCat2021 I have seen 90 amp on a 15 amp breaker for a second or so to close a F***ing big coil
was just a testing rig , normally this was powered by a dc charger and battery
but was still surpise it was holding
I was about to say, arent breakers, supressors, etc all supposed to be sacrificial components? I'd definitely consider replacement in multiple scenarios...
Your answer is spot on.
There are also trip curves available for almost every breaker except for those horrid Zinsco and Federal Pacific panels. Its pretty interesting to see how long a breaker will hold with a particular breaker. There are also different breaker trip curves, A-F that will determine the In-Rush available. In-Rush is what allows motors and capacitors to charge without tripping breakers constantly.
Zinsco and federal pacific are pretty much known in the inspection world as a no go and always labelled as a must replace. Interesting to see a sparky call it out in the wild.
I would make it more like a regular distro box where the extension cable would plug into a male outlet at the top. That way if the cable gets cut you don’t have to rewire everything. And you can choose the length you need for the job so you don’t have all this extra heavy cable. And you can take the main part with you end of day and leave the cable.
And have two 20 amp legs. And have small gfci breakers at the top to turn in each leg. To top two would be one 20 amp circuit. Next would be another 20 amp circuit. And the third I would put in 240v 20amp outlets. And outside covers on all outlets that allow you to keep a wire plugged in while closed. Covers with windows. Those covers are gonna break so fast.
Also a small spd at the top might be a good idea being a job site with temp power and a bunch of high draw startup tools going off and on.
Oh and put a nightlight electrical outlet on it so you can find it at night. Light sensor ones that turn on in the dark. That way even if you’re inside a dark area you’ll have light. And have it be modular.
This video and the comments below reflect one of the things I like most about this channel. Paul is 85%+ for an amazing number of trades, and he presents in a way that is accessible to DIYers without condescending to pros. That means he attracts a very wide range of people, AND he's humble enough to showcase suggestions or corrections. I could hardly be more impressed with Paul.
And obviously, thanks to Jordan for making the channel possible and for making the connections/ asking the questions for those of us who aren't as widely competent as Paul is. :) You two are a great team that has built a forum for a very helpful community.
*Thank you.*
I used to be impressed. That's why I started watching years ago. Now, it just more contrived and scripted nonsense and it's lost that organic feel of a son helping his talented father. Just take a look at the thumbnail progression... more of the "shocking" and "???" thumbnails that are only used to manipulate and please the algorithms. They lost my subscription!
@@DiffEQ Then move on.. sorry I have seen a few of your comments on here on other peoples comments. If you don't enjoy the channel anymore than don't make those that like it have to listen to your negative narrative.. just unsubscribe and move on, Paul and his son don't owe you anything
@@steve_main What's your point? I already said I have moved on; As have many others. Doesn't mean I can't make the reasons known. Do you live in that world where all comments have to be praise and support? Do you? And you are wrong about people who are soliciting subscribers for profit when you say they don't owe those subscribers anything. This is not an altruist venture, sir. Get a grip. You chose to respond with negativity but others are forbidden to do so without your concurrence? SMH
People who show their mistakes on camera are good people. It’s how everyone learns faster
I only ever made one electrical item my entire life - but , I still think it's worth sharing with others . Basically , I just used a 100' manual reel and fit 200' on it . Works great just be careful to not twist the cord too much or too little and I let the two ends meet outside of the reel so there's more reel space and easy access without needing to unroll to run a split or whatnot . Thanks for the video . Y'all are awesome .
I would mount the last grey outlet turned 180 degrees. You see at 23:30 how a right angle plug blocks the second outlet. Reverse the outlet, and you can use a right angle plug in the lower, or outer spot, and leave the other outlet available if needed.
Great video!
The vacuum part surprised me, I hadn't really thought about it before but I assumed when it was clogged that it would be pulling harder to overcome the clog therefor drawing more current, turns out I was wrong. Every day I learn something new!
Yep, the vacuum draws less power due to the partial vacuum it creates behind the impeller. The motor has less drag since there's no more air to move and it starts spinning faster (hence the louder noise). One thing to keep in mind though is that since the vacuum is not moving any air through the filter it's also not moving any air through the motor. This means that the motor won't get cooled anymore and it may overheat.
Same going to change my way how i look at that not to much stress then
Exactly my thinking and logic too prior to this video
The blades in a fan are like airplane wings -- when you have a proper angle of attack, the wing produces lift to support the plane's weight, which also produces drag (load). As a plane slows, the angle of attack between the wing and the air increases until the air no longer flows smoothly over the wing; when that happens (a "stall"), both lift and drag are decreased. So, like the airplane wing, the blower blades stall, not moving air, and not loading the motor as much because, as others have said, little energy is being used to do work. That floored me for the longest time, too, until I became a pilot and thought of the lift / drag in that context.
I also thought this!
Jordan, I've got to say great camera work. You do a fantastic job filing your Dad as he's doing the work. I think you could pitch a show to the Home Channel on TV, you guys are way better than some of the other Home Improvement DIYers channels out there.
I second that. You have good attitude. Chipper. Ppl love to watch your videos. I would watch u on satellite for sure.
Probably comes from long experience of holding a flashlight. Similar activity: Point and keep steady on the work, predict what the next activity is so you can point to where the attention should be. I must say that I got plenty of that training as a wee young kid, myself.
When I was a kid, I remember my Dad and Grandpa trying to teach me stuff like this all the time. But I was to young to understand and appreciate it. Just ranomdly today TH-cam decided to share your videos with me and it's been great.
All that stuff is filed away in your brain somewhere. Watching these videos will bring it back.
Darn you, I just made your SUPER extension cord now you show me an ULTIMATE extension cord. I can't keep up with your great ideas. I'm retired and no longer take on the scale of projects you so easily tackle, so I guess I'll live with my SUPER extension cord. It was a fun project. You both produce great videos that are so great to watch. Keep up the great work. Stay safe.
You are a fount of know-how! You just gave away so many electrician’s secrets that now even my grandmother could do a living room renovation! What a valuable video for somebody just getting started and needed to know exactly what was needed for wiring! (with the exception of three-way switches)!
In Ham Radio we often add meters to our panels to monitor voltage and amps on our rigs. This is especially helpful on mobile setups where you might be operating from a battery. Having a small LED display about the size if your green light would be handy to make sure you don't overload the circuit.
This is great!
Any ideas where to source or find one of the led displays?
"Jameco" Electronics company
@@henderson1914 I picked up a 5 pack of mini DC volt meters off Amazon for less than $10, I have seen the AC versions for about the same price.
@@henderson1914 I get mine from Temu, AliExpress, Banggood or Ebay, whichever is cheapest. Make sure you verify their readings, sometimes the cheap ones will be inaccurate by 10% or so, but as long as you know, you can compensate. They have voltage ones, and ones which will display voltage and current both. Even ones which will display voltage, current and frequency if you are running off a generator.
I used to drive a truck delivering stud packs to job sites. I really love y'all's channel. My late stepdad who I loved very much was a General contractor like you. He taught me so many cool things that I still think about today. When I watch you and hear your voice explaining stuff, maybe it's the kind tone you have, it just makes me feel like my stepdad is watching with me.
Hey man thank you.
I binge watched this channel the past 2 weeks on my free time. I love this. My dad past away oh cancer 6 years ago.
He was a handy man and showed me these tricks. But I’m learning so much more.
Sorry for your loss. Paul is a great father figure and his interaction with his son shows a really good dynamic where he's passing on wisdom without being arrogant or elitist. Especially when his son (or the internet) has ideas different from what years of experience has taught him.
Im sure your dad is proud of you. God bless you.
For some reason this video speaks to me. My Father is like a God from what everyone says when it comes to home improvement and I've been around it my whole life so when you mentioned your son records you it touched me man. I love it
Hi Stud Pack , I am a electrician in Quebec Canada , I love your videos keep it up. The reason it didn't trip right away, is it wasn't a short circuit , try it again but wait longer so the breaker heats up and goes on overload , it should trip . But there are lots of old panels like commander and FPE panels that are notorious for not tripping on overload conditions. Electrical panels do need to be tested after 20-25 years .
As a bit of trivia for you - the current recommendation in the UK at the moment is every 10yrs, but we do have the madness of ring final circuits!
i agree with this statement
Nice was also going to say this I am a Sparky in Texas
I do a lot of DYI cords and repairs. I take additional steps on the wire ends after stripping. I solder the ends of the wires before clamping. Never had a problem with loose screws. Just the way I do it.
25:55 My Dad was a Navy man in Vietnam. He learned this fact there and explained to me no less than 100 times. Which in hind sight was good because it took me about 20 to really grasp. When the impeller is able to move fluid linearly in flow, it constantly encounters new, axially stationary, fluid and then has to introduce torque. When the flow stops, the impeller puts torque onto the fluid, which remains linearly stationary, and the system becomes a flywheel. And we all know a flywheel take a lot of energy to get up to speed, but very little to keep at speed. I was probably 4 years old the first time I heard this and 8 before I could finish his story for him.
Thanks for the memories, Stud Pack. ☮❤🌈🧘🏽🕉☸☯
Good explanation 👍
A blower with squirrel cage fan also increases in speed when it's blocked on the airflow.
The load test with the saws would have seen a very large increase in current draw of they were actually cutting wood rather than just free spinning; it's not very representative of their power draw just by turning them on.
My dad, also a Navy Man in Vietnam, went on to civic life as an electrical engineer, though his tradecraft was as Master Electrician. Mom was a public school teacher. A proud union family we were!
When I was a kid I was "asked" to crawl around under houses (spiders, snakes, rats, even bats!) and in attics (either bitter cold or abominably hot...plus vermin and insects of every kind. Wasp bites were especially fun while rolling around in fiberglass in July heat.) But he made working hard fun. I got to swear like an actual sailor, trade barbs, take a ribbing and had lots of laughs.
So cool to see Stud Pack guys as father/son team. That is rare!
Like your pops, I paid a passive ear to his 'splainin as a kid. And though he's passed now, I can still recall hundreds of rhyming schemes, anecdotes and shorthand! I literally apply those mnemonic devices in physics, math, chemistry and weekend handyman projects now,
As an adult who's also an engineer (of a different flavor), I'll always fall back on Dad's sage advice in tricky situations.
@StudPack you guys do fantastic work! Love the channel!
I’ve been a DIYer all my 74 years and I learn something new from each video on your channel. Thanks, Keep up the good work.
Not only was this a great video it also showed items that many of us most likely never knew existed. The receptacle with the USB option not only saves counter space it eliminates the necessity for the little “brick” transformers which are just clutter once you’re done charging an item.
The plug end gfi was another bonus.
This is a good point and as someone who does their own electrical it is not a big deal for me to install the USB charging receptacles in my house. The issue I have, is that the USB charging standards keep evolving. i.e., they used to be 5w, then 10w, now some phones are upwards of 100w charging capabilities. Also the underlying protocol used (ex one of the newest is PD3.0 with PPS) keeps changing for optimal fast charging. So in the end, I prefer to swap bricks than to keep swapping receptacles. That being said, I think its a great addition to this extension cord where you want less clutter.
@@glennda5id my son is a six year Tesla employee and he says fast charging harms a battery and slower is better. Using those cars as an example charging at home is far better than repeatedly using the supercharger stations.
I have new/newer apple products and they came with larger wattage bricks but opt for the slower one as there is no need to rapid charge them.
It’s personal choice.
These Stud Pack how-to videos are quite possibly the BEST of their kind on You Tube.!!! They are at once instructional, understandable, complete and detailed without being pedantic or arcane, humorous and fun to watch, and the camera work is outstanding!!!!!! Count me as a Number One FAN!!!👍👍👌👌😁
😄
Yes, wago connectors, nice to see them being used. Actually my favourite takeaway was the mounting board with cable wrapping ears and a carrying handle, that’s a neat idea
Watching your videos reminds me of working with my dad, God rest his soul. Bud, cherish these days of working with the old man. You will never forget the life lessons weaved throughout his common sense work ethics and skills. Love your Stud Pack videos, thanks. Oh, and I have some old heavy duty cords from my Dad, I know what I'm doing with em this weekend.
I see one improvement I would make. I would have the cord wrap BELOW the outlet boxes. That way I could use the boxes with unwrapping just a few feet of wire. The way it is now, you have the wire blocking the boxes. BTW, this is my first time watching your videos and I liked / subscribed.
for a variety of reasons, it is better to not have current carrying conductors coiled up. (heat build-up, magnetic coupling & noise)
@@jamesalles139 While certainly true, it is not really a factor in this application because the things being plugged in are generally motor-driven devices which already create a lot of line "noise," fluctuating magnetic fields, etc. If your application is so sensitive to these minor data points, you would engineer it to a much tighter standard. They already "over" engineered using the hospital-grade receptacle.
@@TwilightxKnight13 un-wrapping the cord is not 'over-engineering', it is simply a good habit for high-current loads.
That has got to be the most awesome extension cord of all time. Reminds me of the ones we built when I was in trade school in sixties. We had the auto shop weld up some stands. We then attached two eight inch square boxes and wired in two duplex receptacles in each with thirty feet of 12/3 stranded cable. Great job site cords but know where near yours. Of course it was 1966.
My dad passed away in March, of this year. He had the same type of extension cords you have, heavy duty black, and even one with the double outlet on the end (no GCFI tho). Seeing this, I'm now going to re-purpose his cords, for the ultimate extension cord, and memory. Made my day sirs. Ty. -George
Of course you knew you were going to get comments on your ultimate extension cord. Before you paint with the flex drill 2 holes in the top of the board 16" on center. When you're at a job site with open bays, you can fasten it right up to the wall and the holes will be premade in your wood to mount on the stud's. Even without it's a fantastic device!
That is a fantastic addition T L. I bet we will see that in the next episode
Lol, I understand it's a older video and this is my second time watching it.
But, I couldn't help but smile remembering your opening statement about how you got bombarded with "you did that wrong" "my cousins uncles brother does it differently and he has been doing it for thirty years so he knows" so you produce a follow up video to address all of those keyboard warriors concerns.
Couple of points, thank you for the shop vac explanation, I had no idea.
Second I really enjoyed seeing some of the pieces that as a DIY person we do not normally see.
Thanks for another great video brother.
You guys are just the absolute best channel on TH-cam. Everything you do is gold!
It used to be. Now it's all just contrived content and clickbait. It was much better when it was organic. It's what got people watching and then they sold out. It's cringy, now. At best. I revoked my subscription when I started realizing it was all for profit, now.
@@DiffEQ So what if they make more money? That's the dream we all have, isn't it? We watch two down to Earth guys with some great skills for free, anytime; you don't have to pay anything. Plenty of time for plenty of more content that's more your style.
@@literallymyusername8291 I didn't say there was anything wrong with making more money. And, no, that is not "the dream we all have." If it was, none of us would have served in the military or decided to teach in the public school system. What you didn't respond to is what I actually stated as my reasons for no longer enjoying/supporting the channel.
Awesome video guys! I’ve done some wiring as well, totally within my wheelhouse to tackle something like this. Also, I like how you didn’t “dismiss” the safety “Karens” out there, but actually incorporated their suggestions! Very cool!
Love this! I was gonna buy an expensive power strip bar with led lights and USB built-in for my shop, but now I'm inspired to build a custom one and add an auxiliary twist-lock whip and breaker for my generator. Thanks Stud Pack!
I just added some heavy duty in wall outlets with USB and C ports in my shop. Made a huge difference.
So much better 😂
I know it was just a throwaway comment, but I had to say this; a set of Felo automatic strippers made my workflow so much better. I build a lot of custom electronics and AV/data systems. Stripping wires to the proper length in 2-5 seconds rather than 15-30 can turn a 16 hour day into 10 hours.
Although I don't remember exactly how long ago it was but somewhere in the neighborhood of 25 years ago I was faced with an extension cord with a bad female end. I didn't have a replacement handy but I did have a metal two gang box and some receptacles, so I put them on the end of the cord and still have that cord today. It makes a pretty versatile extension cord where I can actually plug in four different things. It's really handy when you're working on a job and you're using a drill and a saw and a light and God knows what else and you can plug them all into the one cord so you don't have to unplug something to plug something else in every time you want to switch tools. Anyway, great video that is an awesome ultimate extension cord.
Seeing you leave a bit of green insulation on to prevent the stranded from splaying was well worth the price of admission.
I have been wiring devices all my life. With few alterations I think this was spot on. As usual I would personalize it for my own particular needs...but it was the best homeowner instruction level one yet. I did a 240 volt 50 amp one off of a range plug and a small subpanel. It had 240v, 120v and gfi protection. DEFINITELY not water resistant or OSHA approved. I can weld with it and run anything 120v ..with full breaker protection. Not pretty either.
Please show me how to make one. I travel a lot doing repairs anything from roofing to repairing/welding damaged hand railing.
I had a great time watching this video. I’m a novice, just getting started working on the farm. Sixteen years old. I learned so much. And there’s even more information in the comments.
I made up a cord and box exactly like yours minus the USB plugs ( it was before everyone needed a USB plug to survive the day)
I made mine using 12G SO cord, 100 feet long and it’s laid out in sun light, rain, snow, ice and anything Mother Nature can throw at it and it’s still working great, with hardly no voltage drop too
Great video, i made one based on this video except one change. I used an outdoor box with a cover over the outlets when stuff is plugged in. I did that for the rare times one of my kids grab it to power their campsite in the rain. It is great.
I like it! The one change I will make is a spool because wrapping cords around static cord storage twists them. I like a detachable cord (from the board), with one of those sunk-in cord sockets, which helps with the spool being simple as well as allows any extension-cord to be use.
Thanks guys!
That's a great idea actually, the retraction mechanisms in those tend to be quite bulky/heavy but it seems perfect for an application like this
First of all, awesome build!!!
I’m not an electrician but I would like to attempt an answer to the question of why the breaker didn’t trip when it was overloaded.
My answer is because the circuit is protected by a GFCI breaker which are designed to protect people from electrical shock, rather than prevent damage to a building's wiring. It does that by monitoring the current on the hot wire and the neutral wire and as long as the current on both wires is the same it will not trip. It will only trip after the wires become melted from the overloaded circuit and become shorted out. The shorted hot wire will then and only then cause the GFCI breaker to trip.
Nice job as always guys, love your videos!
Not an electrician, just a DIY enthusiast, but a couple things stuck out to me:
1. You only need stranded wire if the wire can be moved around (e.g. the extension cord bit, or in a flexible conduit) - internal to the boxes between devices can be solid without issue, and would be easier to connect.
2. Seems to me if you have a 20-amp receptacle, I think technically you'd need a 20 amp plug on the supply end to physically prevent you from using a 15-amp outlet. I suspect that inline GFCI is only rated for 15 amps.
3. It's a shame the strain relief on this one didn't have the flexible spring to prevent hard angles at the connection.
Keep killing it! :D
I was wondering that, myself: what happens when you try to plug a 20a tool into that extension cord that is plugged into a 15a wall outlet.
I would have used solid wire inside there, especially on the ground.
@@monkeysuncle2816 It'll always trip, the 20a tool is goign to use more than 12a (nuisance trip threshold for a 15a breaker)
@@TheDarthJesus All the portal power tools I have are only 8a. Most 20a tools have some weight to them and will not be carries from job site to job site, such as a drill press, bandsaw, or a lathe.
@@gn02020202 oh absolutely. I was simply saying that using the 20a plug on this "super extension cord" for a 20a tool, while plugging it into a standard 15a receptacle (which is rated for 12a continuous current as per the 80% rule) would cause the breakers to trip.
This is a fantastic project. Real men improve shit and prove they are secure in their self worth by listening to feedback instead of getting defensive. Love it!
Great job guys. I too am an Electrician, but i think the overload has been well explained as to what's happening. Loved your super extension. Thanks for sharing 😃
You thought the 12AWG stranded falling of the ground screw was something to "love"? No 15A receptacle is designed to hold a 12AWG stranded conductor on a ground as it is NOT a current carrying conductor and is actually sized smaller than the requisite 14AWG. He's two gauges too large and that screw is NOT holding it as he claims.
It's simply an old breaker, failing to trip.
@@DiffEQ He should be fine, because in case of a ground fault it would just trip the GFCI.
Was typing out the thermal trip function, and just saw @Riles223 explanation, which is perfect.
One thing I noticed though: You went to a lot of effort to select equipment that would be water tight, from the fantastic GFCI plug to the water resistant strain relief with the o-ring seal for the cord going into the first box. But then you used standard plates instead of seal-tight plates, which would help keep moisture out of the boxes from the front. Which is fine, you'll most likely have the unit in a garage most of the time, so it's not like you need water-resistant dome covers or anything, but I thought at least seal the box edges. It surprised me. One suggestion you could do, IF you had to have the box out in the elements, is to caulk the box edges and then re-secure the plates. Kind of a makeshift solution, but it does seal the box itself. Just a thought.
But I love the idea, I have a power unit in my wood shop with a variety of connections, I love it. And I love that you made yours portable, I love the cable wrap and handle (very clever adaptation), you guys clearly put a lot of thought into it. VERY user friendly. Good stuff. Great video.
As a retired electrician I complement you on the extension cord. However I must throw a word of caution about the paddle connections. For this application it probably wouldn't be a problem but having years experience in the oilfield electrial equipment and vibrations having a tight twist on the stranded wire under the paddle connectors will become a loose connection. The natural twist of the wire is good. The tight twist over time will relax.
I was thinking the same. We always tinned the conductor with a little solder to strengthen the mechanical connection.
It explain why we needed to re-screw connections of breaker box and terminals after a day or 2, to be sure the wire werent loose. Solid wires needed little tighting, but stranded wire where the always loose. So, we twisted too much ! Thanks !
@@donfrost9457 Solder will cold-flow under compression. I was taught to use copper ferrules.
I never twist strand wire much
Also a retired wireman. Whenever I would find stranded wires under a screw in this manner, the thought that would come to mind is that the guy who wired it was just plain lazy.
Good video, Stud pack. Randomly came cross this older video of yours, i have been watching the new carage build videos like grazy everytime a new episode comes out! One thing i may add about the cord: here in Finland, i was taught in school to always make the cords ends connected so that the 3 wires inside the cable would be so that the ground is the longest wire, then the neutral the second longest and finally the hot to be the shortest cut of all the wires.
This is so that even if the strain relief fails, the hot wire is the one that gets yanked out of the connection first, so that it would disconnect first in case of a fault. Neutral second because if the neutral would be the first to disconnect, it may in some cases destroy some appliances with the hot still connected. i think its because the electricity sometimes finds a other route inside the device and it can potentially be very bad for the device, like frying circuit boards and etc. Ground finally the longest so that the device is always grounded in case of something ripping the cable straight out of the cord. Happens more often than you think.
I built version one a couple of months ago and I love it. I will probably build a simpler version of this super ext cord, but I’m not a fan of that huge yellow GFI box. Love the built-in mount/cord wrap and love that it’s rubberized. The point is you guys pointed out that the bus bars we build are far better than the ones sold in the big box stores. They are also customized to our needs.
Well, I'm not an electrician and I don't even play one on TV so I thought it was an awesome build and I applaud you guys for teaching a newbie like me how to be safer. All of the commenters that are telling you that you're doing it wrong can pound sand for all I care!
Definitely using this idea at work. I do the same type of work as you 2 and love watching your content to see how you guys do things down south as I'm up in Vermont. This will definitely help on the jobs when we're packing places to plug in and keep the cord from getting tangled when it's in the job trailer. Keep up the great work 😁 👍
Love you guys thanks for all you do. I'm a retired electrician from Children's Hospital of Phila. And electrical Instructor.
Suggest when using stranded wire under a screw terminal, twist the strands in the opposite direction so strands won't come out from under the screw head.
God bless.
Loved this build! I think I'll make a smaller one but I'll use the outdoor boxes with the lids attached.
The first video I ever saw of yours was the extension cord repair video you mentioned at the beginning. It was a YT recommended video. I've watch every one since, and gone back to watch a lot of your older videos. Keep up the great (team) work.
Breaker didn't trip instantly because its being overloaded and not short-circuited. It'll take a few seconds to a minute to trip at only 8 amps of overload current and that's normal. Higher current overloads will trip it faster.
Just something to add to explain it a little better, there’s a strip of metal or a spring inside the breaker. 8A of overload will heat that metal up, making it softer. Over time that metal will deflect or bend, thereby causing the breaker to trip.
@@JeremyPeters Jeremy is correct. The breaker is thermally activated so if you allowed the 28 amps to continue for a period of time (rather than just a few seconds) it would indeed trip.
@@JeremyPeters Just like how turn signals used to work in cars, before they went electronic.
The current from the incandescent turn signal bulbs would heat up the bi-metallic strip inside of the signal relay, making it deflect, cool down, and reconnect itself automatically for each flash.
It's what causes the clicking sound you hear when you use your blinkers.
Though, modern cars use LEDs, and electronic flashers. So the clicking sound you hear now-a-days is faked.
@@northernlightsrenovations1710 Most breakers trip and are able to be reset. Does the metal return to the original shape allowing it to be reset? Does a short just heat the metal to a deformation instantly then? last question, another TH-cam channel explained how an automatic analog rice cooker works using thermal deformation and a magnet like the old dial thermostats, does a breaker work the same way?
Thanks for the response and explanation.
@@trekie30122 good questions. I hope someone answers.
just watched both of the extension cord videos. I also had issues with the metal box (but it's so Robust that it needed a fix), this version of the extension cord is much more than we need. So the Original version is what we Made with some improvements. I live in the pacific north west we get rain from October to May so water is a problem on any job site. My solution was to fill all unused holes with JB Weld I also used some 80 grit sandpaper on the interior faces of the box and sprayed the interior with the flex seal rubber coating. I also used exterior plug covers so the unused plugs are sealed when not in use (the metal flip up kind with a gasket seal on each socket). I also take the time to place a pice of plastic tarp over the box and we always put it on top of something so its not directly on the ground, just incase we get a sudden shower while we're working. we tend to put up shade roofs over our tools again just incase. Remember kids electricity will kill you if you let it.
Be Safe!!
Your typical circuit breaker has two trip modes, a magnetic and a thermal. The magnetic will trip instantly for high currents like a dead short, while the thermal portion can handle brief overloads to allow motors and other high inrush devices to start. The datasheet for the breaker will have the curves, but typically most will handle 200% for about 10 seconds, 150% for 100 seconds.
Or its a challenger breaker lol.
Love it! On mine, I’m going to put the high capacity receptacle closer to the cord and not at the end of two sets of 12g jumpers so it gets first dibs on current coming into the boxes. I’ll switch a 15a receptacle instead of the 20a since that’s more likely where I’ll be plugging in lights, and I think I’ll mount the indicator light on the side of the last box. Since I have to drill a hole anyway it may as well be on the side. That’ll free up a position for another receptacle. If you wrap the cord in a figure ‘8’ pattern for storage it won’t put twists in the cord.
Rotate the boxes 90 degrees. The wire on plugs that point down will tangle up across the other plugs. Having them point out instead of along the unit. Great job. Loved the hospital plug info. Great for heavy use and heavy load.
If you rotate those plastic boxes then the conduit connections become more complicated with tees and would not be inline as they are in that build.
@@user990077 No changing the device direction doesn't change conduit.
I made one of these for my mobile work bench. It has a switched 20 amp outlet in the first box and two 15 amp outlets in the second. I don't need more than that, but because I used the same bell boxes and a 2 in. conduit nipple to connect them, there's always room for expansion!
As a 20 year contractor I found your video to be very entertaining, educational, and useful. My OCD flared up when you mismatched the colors on the plates and plugs, but AL in all, a great vid guys as usual. Thanks for representing the construction field so well. Keep up the awesome vids.
26:16 Okay, last Dad comment (on this video :-) for you. When you wrap a cord in a loop as you are doing, you are introducing a twist. The conductors inside are twisted, and the strands of each conductor are also twisted. This compounding effect is what causes old cords to the get the "umbilical cord" damage. However, with the quality of cord you are using here, that is never going to become apparent (as evidenced by the age of this 3 generation cord). Even so there is still a good reason to use my Dad's Navy wrap method. The Navy wrap is to make a figure eight on the side opposite the handle. This has 1 immediate benefit of not obstructing the outlets. But also each pair of wraps is a 1/2 twist minus a 1/2 reverse twist. Here's an exercise: If you extend the cord only 1 foot because that is all you need at first but then later decide to take out the rest of the cord to move your tool farther away, you can do so without unplugging anything. The cord will be straight. No twists. Try that exercise both ways. It's mind blowing.
Absolutely FANTASTIC camera work! Super close shots of every thoroughly explained step. What a GREAT team.
Came across this video and loved every minute of it. More joy when I realized I was already subscribed! The comment section is absolutely amazing as well. Great community!
Small suggestion that I’ve seen on British plugs. They leave a bit of slack on the neutral and a little more on the ground so that, if something pulls the cord out of the plug, they detatch in a specific order - live 1st & ground last.
Not a bad theory
Very smart 🤓
Good idea.. almost makes up for centuries of the British empire terrorizing most of the globe with rape and pillage. We wouldn't want the king's fancy little fingers getting the zap zap.
Watching your custom extension videos was sooooooo instantly gratifying......
You can also use a seam ripper (used for removing stitches in clothes) to cut the wire shield off, it works for automotive wire harnesses good. Love the videos!!
I worked with a retired AVCM (Don Noise) for a short time; who told me he also used a seam ripper to cut “spot tie” on on wiring harnesses. He was absolutely correct works much better than dykes, knife or scissors. Thanks for the tip.
Suggestion - get your own ripper, don't use your wife's
Been there Done That Now Divorced with holes in my pants@@randydewees7338
You may or may not believe this, but since I saw your original video I've been using your trick to remove the outer covering for a power cord. No nicks in any of the conductors. I can personally attest that it works for cords up to 10awg, 4 conductors. One of the best things I ever learned off TH-cam.
Love the build. One thing I would be concerned about is the life span of those cover plates. Corners have a good chance of snagging. A frame around the boxes so they have something to sit on should be an easy fix.
I came to the comments specifically to find this. It was the first thing I thought of as well.
Being a tin bender, AKA metal fabricator, I immediately started to design the enclosure in my head. It's a character flaw!
I’m so sorry. People think they know better. Your videos are great. Thank you. Very educational.
If you look in the datasheets for most circuit breakers, they have the over-current to hold time graph, which is a curve. at a low amount over the rated current it will take quite a while (up to an hour) for the breaker to trip - 15.5 amps in a 15 amp circuit for example. As the draw goes up, the hold time drops. A 60 amp draw would almost instantaneously trip a 15 amp breaker. Mechanically why this happens has been covered in many comments. Why this is a good thing... hasn't. Breakers can be designed to trip instantaneously for any peak over the rated current, but this provides no extra protection, and very well might cause problems with high draw devices like motors, that can draw great amounts of current at startup, but level off very quickly (inrush current). A few seconds above the rated current isn't going to heat the wires in the walls significantly, and since the breaker is only there to protect those wires (....and nothing else), there's no value in making it trip any faster.
Yeah, being able to hold a surge current for even a short amount of time is important. We don't want a circuit to break every time an Air Conditioner brings its outdoor unit online as an example.
electroBOOM on youtube had a video where he put 100 amps through a 20 amp breaker and nothing. he got the data sheet and it said something like it can take anywhere from 60 secs to 5 seconds to trip based on the amps running though it.
@@Styrofo4m GCDIs are made to protect humans. Breakers and fuses are made to protect equipment and prevent structural fires. The main specification for a fuse or breaker is that the circuit breaks before the cable causes a fire, or hopefully break something.
In most countries gcdis and breakers tend to be one and the same. In USA this is not the case often only having ground fault protection to select few rooms.
@@Styrofo4m two different names around the same thing. It depends on which country you live in which is standard
Hi I'm just a DYI guy, but like the power bar. I did borrow your general idea and added a one piece plywood backer under the switch plates. I found when you wrap the cord or plug in a device that is tight, the sides of the plate's were always breaking. Also made a portable vertical stand with a shelf that I can use were ever I go. Shelf can hold charging phones, boom box, etc. thanks :)
Awesome job! Those screws on the sides of electrical outlets are very interesting. I used to think they were a combination of Slotted and Phillips, but I was wrong. Slotted screwdrivers don’t work well as they can slide around too easily. Phillips head screwdrivers in those screws work better, but these screws are not designed for Phillips drive. You can see in the middle of the screw a square hole (not a pointed Phillips hole). This is called a Robertson drive (square drive). It fits perfectly (no sliding) and allows you to easily drive them even in odd positions. You can buy Robertson drivers at most tool outlets, but there is an even better solution that I recently discovered. Milwaukee makes an ECX driver that is specifically for electrical work (insulated down to the tip). The ECX driver is a combination of Slotted and Robertson drives. It’s been great for my amateur electrical work. It comes in two sizes - #1 is for normal stuff. (Jordan - Father’s Day is coming).
klein also makes screwdrivers labeled c1 and c2 for combination screws it is on my 15 in 1 ratcheting screwdriver from them it is starting to show up in newer assorted screwdriver tips packs also
It's nice to see more and more devices moving away from the stripping Phillips
Friend I like your style. No frills, real useful, direction. If they are paying attention they will learn.
A breaker is a Thermo-Magnetic over current protection device. The '' Thermo'' portion of the breaker consist of a bi-metallic* strip of metal that is heated by a resistor in series with the load *( two dissimilar metals fused together, each having their own thermal expansion coefficient, thus creating a curve in the metal strip when subjected to a heat source. ). this flexion of the bi metallic strip of metal is used to trigger the breaker opening mechanism. the bigger the overload, the faster it heats up, the quicker it trigger.
On the other hand, in the event of a pure short circuit, the Amps drawn can easily climb to 1000 amps on a 15 amps line in a fraction of a second, too fast for the bi-metallic system to react in order to prevent the wires from glowing red. This is where the ''Magnetic'' portion of the breaker comes into play, inside the breaker the load/amps have to pass thru a coil of wire that act as an electro-magnet, but just when huge amount of current pass thru it, so when a pure short is present with thousands of amps, the electro-magnet pulls the triggering mechanism of the breaker and opens the circuit. Simple design, very effective.
I would say the ohms resistance on this build extension cord is one of the best in the industry compared against other multiple outlets connectors. which is why others burn up. I believe the breaker is set to an average resistance for the regular consumer and bc this was diy built the breaker did not trip. but thats not a real world test bc nothing like that is ever that close each tool is usally in its own area so may be adding some 25 ft to 50 ft extension cords would really load test the breaker and and and the load when cutting is higher so may be performing an actual cut for testing will pull more than 28 amps for sure
great explanation by the way!
Not all breakers are thermomagnetic. The breakers in a lot of power strips and inverters are usually thermal only.
@@randacnam7321 That is very true and hospitals and other more health related places have thermal protection and magnetic action as does homes or residential.
Canadian standards now do not accept any breakers that do not have at minimum Thermal and magnetic trips.
There is also GFCI, AFCI, and so on, but for the sake of simplicity i talked about the most common house panel model.
Years ago, I was at a safety meeting. A picture was shown of an extension cord wrapped around a "cord keeper" and had over heated overheated and caught fire. That impressed upon me so much that to this day 40 some years later, I always completely uncoil the extension from any "keeper" so the cord can have air circulate around it. My kids were small at that time and I instilled upon them and my wife to completely remove the cord, irregardless the length so it can "breathe". Granted the picture at the safety meeting was a worse-case scenario.
I do like your complete idea, and am thinking about building my version, but I will have to unwrap the cord every time just because of that safety meeting picture. Thanks for the new cord.
So I'm guessing you don't use one of those automatic cord retractors in your workshop. Or do you pull all the cord out when you use it?
@@PhilDeGuzman I fried a nice Belden retractable cord when I used a Milwaukee heat gun and failed to pull the cord all the way out. Pulled out about 5', plugged in the heat gun and about 5 mins later... smoke and the smell of melting insulation!
Paul and Jordan you guys are next level. I am currently finishing a media room that includes 11 speakers and a 47" direct vent zero clearance gas fireplace. When i get a break i really enjoy watching and learning from your content!!!!
I love that I found your video. You must know, my dad passed away two years ago, and I would have loved watching your video with him. Also I know youre right, your dad would be proud of that.
Greetings from México man.
Gracias amigo 💪👍
Really usefull idea! For better safety always make the protective wire longer than hot and cold wire, so that it's the last wire that can be drawn loose in the case of a loosen clamping plate.
note about vacumn cleaner, the motor needs the air flow to cool itself. Free spinning clogged vacumn is overheating the motor. Great Video guys, Love the channel
I thought about making one like the smaller one you guys made but with an outlet with USB-A. However seeing the plywood backer for the cord wrap feature and hole to hang it got me thinking and possible add a few other features like a cradle to hold a phone while it charges. Maybe a little shelf with a hinge and kickstand.
Made 2 of the first cords. now I'll add this, as a custom cabinet builder these cords help big time onsite. I've seen them on jobsite but your video pushed me to finally make them, thank you.
Here in Norway, you are supposed to use some metallic ends on the multi stranded cables when connecting it to a socket.
Solid is fine.
Wires with 8-12 strands is fine.
But on the cables that have dusins of strands you are supposed to crimp on a thingy, don't know the english word for it.
But when putting it in a wago you dont need that.
Yes you can get a ferrule crimper kit for~$20 and it's a game changer for terminating stranded wire
As with the other comment, I think the word you're looking for is ferrule.
And I believe you also meant dozens of strands?
Screws on the outlet plates all aligned vertically; nice attention to detail. I thought I was the only one OCD enough to do that :). Great video; thx!!
Just FYI there are tons of products out there which will charge devices via USB-C, but the part where you're referring to being able to charge an iPhone 12 from 0% to 100% in ~1hr is because of Power Delivery. This IS proprietary to USB-C, but not all USB-C chargers feature Power Delivery. If you want this kind of high speed charging you need to make sure that your device is capable of charging with Power Deliver, and you charger is specifically designed to do Power Delivery, (often called USB-C PD accompanied by a wattage rating like 18W, 20W, 30W, etc...). If you don't see any mention of Power Delivery on a charger you're thinking about buying, then it does not have it. They are more expensive, but well worth it.
Also QC 3.0 is usually around 15-18w and higher voltage than typical 5v USB. There's getting to be way to many variations. I got a nice little USB volt/amp tester that tells ya exactly what it's at. I also recently got a multi port 60w PD and QC3.0 supply that tells you volts and amps of each port when a device is activated. You can see the power curve as the device gets charged. Kinda cool.
Great team you guys are on camera. I live in SF Bay Area It's good to see you and your son working together. Most of the kids out here don't work in the trades or with their parents. They are lazy! I grew up working with my dad times never forgotten.
Great content as always! You always do a great job of the full explanation. Great point on the shop vac, its the principle of conservation of energy. The USB plug devices are the new best thing to add at strategic locations in a house. If one does ANY work on their home, this channel is must watch, hands down.
Awesome project !! I don’t know much about electricity and wiring, so this video is gonna help me freak out a couple friends when they get one for their birthday. They will love it.
Thank you guys. You both work your bootys off, and you still took time to make a fun personal video for all of us. Very generous and thoughtful. Boy oh boy doesn’t the world need more of that? 🥰
Y’all rock
There is a reason why the ends to plugs on a 20amp are different and it's so that people don't end up doing what you just did! a 20amp circuit has to be 20amp from front to load and for very good reasons. You have a inline GFCI that is rated at 15amp and it's at the beginning of a line that has a 20amp receptacle on it ( like in your test at 28 amp , which is almost double the rating! ) This could not only damage a 20amp motor due to the bottleneck as it would be forcing its way through sort of speak but also cause a fire.
Now YES any extension cord can as well pass 15amp depending what you put on it but then your breaker would blow, but here your intent is to have a 20amp line (with the 20amp receptacle) which means it would have to be on a 20amp breaker and this is where it becomes possibly dangerous as the GFCI is not rated for the such!
Furthermore you put the 20amp receptacle at the end which means 20amp of current would be going through multiple connections so are they all rated at 20amp ? when you have a line then with 20amp or 30amp etc.. then every thing that the current is passing through MUST be able to handle it.
You can put higher rated mats on an equal or lower amp line but not the other way around.
--------Solution-----------
1: Double entry plug - You have 2 GFCI plugs at the front end - 1 for 20amp circuits and 1 for 15amps like you already have on. so just install them both into small lean plastic box with a switch that either enables one line or the other because you would not want to have them both live!.
2: Put all the receptacle at the front end of the of load line and make sure they are all 20amps
3: Put usb lines after the receptacles so that max current does not flow through them.
4: Put light at the very end. so if it fails you know that there is something wrong somewhere in between the whole line.
Breakers have tolerance! which means they delay before flipping to the off position. Many appliances can start off giving a spike in current but then lower and this is normal and for these reasons the breaker will tolerate having higher current passing through than its rated for but only for a small amount of time.
NOTE: If you would have left on your devices during that test eventually the breaker would have tripped as it would have passed the breakers tolerance.
I love that y'all keep things as "live" as possible. Can't remove insulation on the first try? Tamper resistant receptacle being difficult? - Leave it in :)
I always twist the wires and tin them, bend and connect.. Nice and clean.
Awesome as ever! Shouldn't the highest current receptacle be the first one on the daisy chain? The lightest load (the USB chargers) at the the far end. That way, the high current load doesn't have to go through a half dozen interconnects. It makes sense to put the high load socket and the pilot light in the first box so the high current is first on the line and the lamp let's us know power is coming in at the source. Though improbable, one of the connections in the middle of the boxes might fail. You still know the cord is hot. Keep up the great work, boys. If your video pops up in my recommendations, I get a piping hot cup of Joe, sit back and enjoy the show!
It makes no difference the order of receptacles, just because one device is able to pull 20 amps, doesn’t mean the rest of the devices are getting “high current”. Kitchens are required by code to be fed with 12 gage wire and 20amp breaker. It makes no difference if you are running several high amp appliances on a certain plug and then have your phone plugged into a different outlet…your phone isn’t going to fry with high current just because you other appliances are pulling 20amps. You also probably don’t even know the order the receptacles were wired anyway because it’s not an issue.
@@JSH1 it's like when you use the receptacle installed on your oven to power other stuff.
@@JSH1 We watched him wire it so we know its one box to the next meaning the switch and 20 amp outlet are at the end of the chain. I think you missed the point of his question because it had nothing todo with the wire being able to handle the current, your explanation may be valid but didn't answer the question. wires in the wall or box are unlikely to fail, especially when there is never stress on the wire, that's why code has them clamped to the box and within a certain distance of the box to a stud. His point was a physical connection is always going to be weaker than a solid wire. logic would say that the highest power should have the fewest possible disruptions to the current which leads to his question. Science or testing may show that the logic is incorrect, or does not have a significant difference to how it is wired.
@@trekie30122 I’m simply saying that it doesn’t matter on the order of 20 amp vs 15 amp plugs…note that 15amp duplex’s are rated for 20amps. There is no stress from box to box the way it’s installed. If he was connecting box to box with SO cord and not secured to a backer board then that would be a valid statement that the wires would be more stressed than a typical install.
@@JSH1 absolutely it does matter. If you have the 20amp receptical at the end and plug a device in that is pulling 20amps, then that middle 15amp receptacle has been overloaded as the power has to pass through that one first.