How to install an oil pan... without leaks, the first time.
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 18 พ.ค. 2013
- Watch as I install my oil pan and share some tips and tricks that I learned for a successful (non leaking) repair.
I found a lot of useful info here:
www.saturnfans.com/forums/show...
This engine is for my 1995 Saturn SW2, I am using a block from a 1997 SL2 and a professionally rebuilt head. All of this was due to poor compression.
Long story short...
My 95 SW2 engine went south, bought a rusted out 97 SL2 for the engine. That engine had no compression on cylinder 3. Yanked both engines out, found burnt valves on the 97. Of course all of this snowballed and I decided to go with a professionally rebuilt head and to do rings, bearings, seals, etc.
Having passed the point of no return I found unibody frame rot and the beginnings of subframe rust so I had to tackle those too. - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
![เปิดบ้านสุดหรู "เเจ็ค the ghost" ลั่นถ้าป๋องกพลลำบากผมเลี้ยงเอง!! l [Nickynachat]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/1xbW4vULqGc/mqdefault.jpg)
I liked:
1) The gun stuffed in the engine
2) the conniption fit when the kid says "dad"
3) the chevy orange or red repaint of the oil pan
Thanks!
As an engineer working with engines this is pretty much accurate. One suggestion I might add is, when you put the pan on a flat surface to check flatness, you can also try to insert a cardboard between the pan and surface all around to find out wavy spots
Dude started his video off without screeching, "Hey Guys!".....BRAVO ! Informative and thorough video with a clear and understandable speaking voice and decent filming!
9 years on and this video was one of the better ones that I have seen on re-sealing the oil pan. Thank you very much for the info and taking the time to make this video.
dude when you pulled that gun out of your engine I totally lost it!
I thought, You gotta live in Texas. Great video, wish my engine was in the garage like that.
A huge THANKS. Before I put the new oil pan on a 429, I watched your video.
Cutting the slots into some bolts worked WONDERS cleaning out the bolt holes, I had never seen that done. So many times have I needed to clean out some threads, now I know how.
Then I cut the heads off and used them as studs to line up the pan, worked GREAT!
If it wasnt for you taking the time to show that level of detail, you would have heard me cursing from there!
Thanks again.
I don't care how overly careful you were. This helped a lot, as I'll be changing my oil pan on my WRX later this week. Great tips to ensure no leaks!
Many people still have oil leakage after silicone work in oil and fluid pans. Someone told me to apply a thin layer of silicon... I wasn't sure after watching so many TH-cam videos, but I came here and became confident in DIY work. Your video is a messenger of love. Thank you very much.
I am 59 years old and just bought my 1st torque wrench. I am doing a motor rebuild for the very 1st time and watching all of the TH-cam videos that I can find. I like your video you made a lot of sense and using a torque wrench to me it now makes a lot of sense to use one so thank you very much for your video.
Very well presented. That's from someone who has been a ASE certified mechanic for many years. You would make a good instructor. You described this job to a "T". Thanks for sharing.
@12:40
I've used the black permatex. It is specifically for engine oils.
The instructions on the tube to say to let it "skin over". This would be things like valve covers and timing belt covers. And I did let the skin over on my time cover on my 99 Solara.
However, I agree with you that since you don't want to be pulling your oil pan off probably ever again, I would get the mating surfaces together before it skins over.
TIP-
I use lint-free raggs from Advanced Auto Parts to ensure that no lint is left on the mating surfaces of where I'm going to be applying a form-in-place-gasket.
FUN FACT-
Toyota FIPG 103 is used on oil pans, semi-circular plugs in the head cylinder head (if applicable like it is on my 1MZFE), and certain crevices on one side of each cylinder head that form an acute angle that the regular rubber gasket may not be able to reach (again, 1MZFE workshop manual).
Good video. Now let's see you do it lying on your back under your car, like most of us have to do it. LOL
right.. this is optimum conditions working in an air conditioned shop..with the engine upside down.. not struggling under an oil drenched car needing an oil pan badly. I will use the guides this time, and buy a new oil pan. .. I've done this 3 times and still have leaks
Very good presentation that was very informative and educational for me. I learned a lot about how to approach working on the oil pan and replacement. .
on your back situation. I would use the two stud guides with just enough threads to easily put two nuts on to hold pan against the block while I install the bolts
right lol
I had that problem PLUS a new allergic reaction to the Permatex which made me sick. Have a Nissan so only need Permatex or other black sealant on one side so let it cure a little before getting under car, wear gloves and maybe wear a gas mask or have a fan running to blow the stink away. Might have to also make sure all the other engine bolts are at the right torque so there is no oil leaking down the cracks. It's really tough with the oil continuing to ooze down constantly for a really long time. Almost impossible on a sealant only model car. I like the head-chopped alignment bolts--that might speed things up.
Probably the best guide to applying RTV on TH-cam. Every trick he did, I recommend, ESPECIALLY using "headless" bolt threads to guide the pan on. This is critical if installing from the undercarriage; you'll never line it up perfectly without guide bolts.
Tim W Thank you sir!
Felpro usually includes plastic studs with their gaskets and the pan will "snap" in place over the studs, so not only do they line it up, but they will hold the pan up until you get your bolts and wrench in hand.
Wish I knew that before buying! ty
It's kind of sarcastically funny but most French cars. Namely, my Peugeot's and Citroen's have a very simple solution. The oil sump is fixed with bolts all around, just like any other, nothing new here. EXCEPT for two studs, standing on opposite sides of the sump. That obviously use a couple of nuts. Simple and basic. No need to "invent" with headless bolts, plastic studs, etc. They're just there. ;-)
Yes but wood dowels can work.
If you read the back of your gasket maker, it will tell you to put a bead of caulking on your piece and put the pan on but not to tighten it until it forms a gasket in about an hour. Then tighten the bolts down. You learn a lot be reading the manufactures instructions. Great video all the same.
This!!
I will be in the process of resealing my oil pan, after I confirm that the leak is in fact coming from there, so finding this video was a real treat. Thank you for making such a high quality guide and being thorough about each step - it's the details that count!
Oh, my freaking gosh, you not only helped me with getting a better seal for pan on my 1980 Chevy K5...but you cracked me up with not showing face through video, yet adding the couple issues you advised to be sure not have, during work...IT SO REMINDED ME OF WHEN MY DAUGHTER WAS A TEEN AND WOULD DO THE SAME TO ME WHILE I WAS DOING BUSY WORK!!....too funny.........SUBSCRIBED!!!! thank you
You sure got this right using Acetone. I followed the same advice on my Mazda Auto pressed metal pan to alloy auto body. No skin and 2 alignment bolts - yes. I was told to finger snug tight the first seal then leave 24hrs to re-tighten. Mine still totally sealed after 2yrs and I recommend your video. Clean off the old gasket and Uber clean the mating faces is the most important part.
Don't you love when you're in the middle of something then the infamous "hey dad" appears.
Very detailed and well explained. Thank you. You have a Bob Ross type of calm to your voice and the humorous spots on your video were perfect. Hilarious. Not sure if I'll ever get a chance to fix my oil pan gasket with the engine out but I truly enjoyed your video.
Thank you for sticking with specs because they have the greater margin for safety.
Good Job
I enjoyed the subtle humor that kept my interest going. I'm reinstalling the transmission pan in the wife's car so the principles of your vid are the same. Thanks!
Using a couple of bolts with the heads cut off to locate the oil pan seriously makes the job easier and much less likely to leak. Guide bolts ensure you do not have to slide the pan around to line up the bolt holes, which smears the silicone around thinning it out instead of keeping it where it is needed to make the seal.
dude knows how to make a good informative video.
Fel Pro gaskets make what they call"snaps" which do what your dowels do. They're plastic , threaded. So you place the pan right over them and it holds the pan whilst you run in the side bolts. Then unscrew and install the bigger corner bolts. Screw the 40 piece cork get up. The big ol' squishy Felpro is a 1/4 " or more thick, one piece and NO addehsive is applied. (except for those crank ends). Great vid here and excellent speaking voice with superb enunciation.
I've heard of boating accidents, but wrenching accidents is a new one to me. haha
Thank you for taking the time to make a very professional video and sharing all the tips and tricks that you learned. Without guys like you we'd have oil everywhere!
Great, I really enjoy how thoroughly you went over possible issues and you were funny as well!
Great video, well presented; with no ego.
I like the temporary studs idea, will be using that when I change the oil pan gasket on my 00 Civic
Really great video - thanks, the best in a dozen or so I looked at. Ostensibly it's a simple process but the devil is in the detail. You are the first person to mention that the sealant goes down the centre groove in the pan rim. Its not obvious but this confirms it. On the bolt cleaning, also to ensure the underside of the washer is clean (I use a brass wire wheel) as they sometimes have radial grooves in them so that when tightened they resist undoing (in addition to any Loctite you apply). Very good idea on the alignment studs too as the slide sideways slide on the pan has caused me problems in the past. So thanks again.
2¼" Ruger SP101. .357 Mag? I found one of them 5-shooters in my 410FE Ford when I rebuilt it in 1994. 20 Years later, still no leaks. As you point out in your video, cleanliness is the key. I wiped with laquer thinner several times on all gasket surfaces of the engine. Used FelPro gaskets with Ultra Blue RTV on both sides.
Tip for future reference. You should have waited after you snugged the bolts down for a couple hours to let the sealer to cure for a optimum seal
When you're that deep into an engine, it's always nice to decarbonize/get rid of varnish buildup. Washing parts with mineral spirits does a really nice job I think. The varnish won't hurt things, but heavy carbon coming loose will recycle through the oil pump and maybe damage bearing surfaces it's first trip through the system. Just me, but I would avoid putting a pan back on without a litte extra cleanup.
I love your attention to detail and clear instructions. Well done!
I did just what you did to my oil pan but in the car, waited 24 hour and about to add the oil in a few min. I was told the correct way was to hand tight weight 1 hour the turq down. Im about to find out see if they both work or if hand tight and turq right after give me leaks. Praying I dont have to repeat this again. GOOD LUCK to my self!
awesome mechanical video. and loved the humor part of checking for accidental spare items left in the engine
It's being a while since this video was posted, but it really helped me how to proper apply the gasket RTV. Thanks! I'm changing the timing belt cover of a 2017 Ford Fusion.
Thanks for taking time out your day to show this. I feel way more confident that i can do this the right way.. thanks agin and great job
Those couple of studs to keep straight the tray during the assembly was a great idea!.. tkx good man
Terrific work done here. Keep up the good work chap. The "gun and hey daddy" scenes were very humorous.
Love the idea of the studs for lining up the sump .👍🏻😎👍🏻
Hay dad!!😂😂😂😂😂😂 right when he started to apply RTV! Loved it!🤣🤣🤣
Any color RTV will work fine. Toyota gasket maker (FIPG) works really great, too, as does Honda Bond. I'll be using a gasket so I won't need much RTV, only a bit at each corner of the gasket. Definitely use a torque wrench to tighten nuts and bolts on the oil pan. The torque is really low, 80 inch lb. here, 8.7 ft. lb. on Honda B-engines. Also F-engines. Overtightening causes leaks, so don't overtighten the fasteners.
Great job! And the guide bolts are like"why the hell didn't I think of that before" damn good idea!
Awesome video SIR.............such a detailed performance and really one of the best i've seen on this topic. I am at this stage tomorrow, yes upside down........already done it twice and still leaking!
I had thought it was right BUT now you have helped me and it will be perfect................Thanks so much, plus the additional amusement
TH-cam should have a 10 star rating system so I can give this 10 stars, great job explaining everything clearly! Gun was a good surprise :D
If you don't happen to own a torque wrench, my method is to progressively tighten the bolts in the spiral method as shown then as you feel a bolt start to strip its thread, back it off 1/4 turn and keep going around till you reach the first stripped bolt...just kidding.Good job DoSumpthin. I don't get the down votes at all. You did it all ok, and are just tryin' to help people out (that may not know) with a clear tutorial that pretty much can be applied to most sumps and rocker covers.
You got it pretty good I'm cleaning rust out of my eyes after scraping the Gasket off the block hahaha
Thanks for the video, I really enjoyed how in depth you go on your fixes. I thoroughly go through my fixes as well, because, like you, I feel attention to detail is needed.
Nice Video
There were a couple things that I would add:
1. When wiping surfaces with solvent wipe in one direction only to avoid leaving residue.
2. Whatever amount of RTV oozes out on the outside will also ooze out on the inside. This excess RTV can and will end up in the pick-up screen of the oil pump, so getting just the right amount is very important.
+William Lee i was thinking No 2 as he was torquing it down
+William Lee Good tips! I hadn't thought of wiping in one direction, how obvious. Wow. Regarding the silicone, this only happens to Chevy people who are working on their first 350 V8 truck engine. haha. No really, if you let the silicone cure overnight, silicone is very strong and won't come off and go into the oil pickup screen. If you don't let it cure, it very well could though. Of course if you use way too much silicone, then it could go into the engine, yes. But I've always used a tremendous amount of silicone and have always let it cure for 12 to 20 hours before starting the engine, and I've never seen any of the silicone come loose, even though there are big globs inside the oil pan.
Well done! I'll be tackling this (for the second time) this weekend. First time resulted in a leak on the transmission side of the pan where the two bolts are hard to get to when the engine is in the car. Maybe a 'lil snub nose revolver will fall out...
Great information, I am working on a Nissan sentra 2006, and your video shows me that this car have not gasket and I have to use ultra black rtv seal to make the gasket, thank you for your help...
"hey dad"
BEEP BEEP BEEP lol.
You probably had the "i'm going to be busy please don't interrupt me" conversation with the Family before hand. Great video. Looks like its going to be a pain considering i'm going to be under the car with little clearance.
Great video and very helpful on my oil pan....the best is the 2 studs you used to guide ...I would have never thought of that,,,,thanks..
11:28 LOL, thanks for leaving that in, That made my day! Informative video BTW, I'm doing this next week.
Good job, the revolver and the kids calling had me laughing!
Thanks for the information ..
That temporary screws was an intelligent idea, also the type of rtv
4 times 4L60e and still leaking ..
yeah sealing an oil pan with the engine inside the car makes it harder to install the oil pan.
The biggest mistake I have seen people make that causes the oil pan to leak is they don't wait for any sealant to dry before filling it with oil. Also as you mentioned the bolt holes are tented and need to be pushed back down. Also cleaning cleaning and more cleaning is necessary as you mentioned as well.
Mineral spirits will also work well with degreasing.
Also if the pan gasket is the same as yours you would want to hand tighten or a little tighter and allow it to dry for 24 hours and then finally torque the bolts. This allows a gasket to be built and not be squished out the sides and will keep rtv from inside the engine.
If you want it to work faster Permatex also makes "the right stuff" which cures in 1 minute.
And yes pattern and doing it in two passes is a very good idea. Also your friend not using torque values is a very very bad idea. Torquing takes a lot of the problems out of the equation.
Also people who say they have the car out the door quickly are probably not talking about a complete RTV gasket. Like a rubber gasket gets no rtv and is usually a dry install so the rtv dont act as a lube and squeeze the gasket out causing a leak or it may get a sealant like aviation glue or one made from cork uses a combo of RTV and the cork and doesn't make a bad gasket but is still old school. Lot's of people have ideas that work for them.
I believe your just fine with the way you did it and will last a pretty good while.
Another tip is sometimes in older engine you may not have a flanged bolt which helps stop leaks from around the bolts. When you see this you want to add washers to the bolts.
RTV ultra black is for oil, grey is usually tranny, red for valve covers or anything really hot, and blue for water. and Permatex No 2 is gas related things. Blue may work on valve covers as well as black but I just like using the red for hot areas personally I wouldn't trust the other stuff. Also you can use RTV on a lot of stuff that calls for a gasket that will keep you from buying a ton of gaskets. Head gaskets, manifold gaskets are a big no no unless you are doing a v8 or v6 chevy which will require rtv in all corners of the valley for the intake manifold gaskets.
Good job though can't wait to hear you run it.
Great video! One thing about torqing things "to spec" is that the OEM specifications are for brand new fasteners that are dry and have no oil (or gunk) residue on it. "Feel" (once you have the experience) is better than a torque wrench for low torque applications. Not sure how blue loctite with a dash of RTV will affect the final torque. Although a lot more work, recommend putting pilot bolts in all holes to keep RTV from getting on the fastener threads. Thumbs up on the video! Love the subtle humor!
Great job! Very thorough and well explained throughout.
Great tips and tricks. Always helps to work in logical and prepared method. Thanks.
Thank you lots of helpful tips enabling me to do it once and right.
Great job, I`m working on my 1995 saturn sc series, replaceing the subframe.
Very good video on how to install oil pan, I learned a few things. I'm also a torque perfectionist that uses torque wrenches.
Great tips just in time as I repair the leaking intake manifold on my LT1
Thank you. I am doing a 1958 Ford 601 tractor. It seems the normal approach is a cork gasket. The question is dry gasket? RTV one side or RTV both sides. I will be on a creeper underneath, so the alignments studs will help a lot, so thank you for that.
Thank you very good video with some good tips, these I shall be using for my first experience with a liquid gasket. After years of leaking joints on my cars.
Regards Jeff New Zealand
damn. Almost left my gat in my crank case. Thanks for lookin out!
I'm going to have my 1971 Pontiac done ty for the information it was very useful 👍🏽
Good video was very thorough. The only thing is when adding RTV sealant to the oil pan you have to be careful because the RTV will break down and clog up the oil screen on oil pump.
@15:55
As it pertains to using a torque wrench:
In the two years I tried to make a living as a mechanic, not one of them that I worked along with including ones that were in their 40s and 50s, ever used a torque wrench.
I'm a big torque wrench advocate for the reasons you specified. I even bought torque sticks so I could use one mounting tires from an impact gun.
It is laziness and negligent not to use torque wrenches.
The one exception might be small diameter bolts connecting something plastic. Usually just to hold a wire or small vacuum hose or battery hold down clamp; I usually go to when it's snug and then turn it maybe another 10 to 15 degrees.
I liked the video. I am currently rebuilding my first motor. 3800 Series ll motor from a 1997 RS Camaro. I installed the crank and pistons and I was about to install the oil pan. I cleaned up the pan and noticed how badly warped and dented the pan was. Going to have to buy a new one. May go with OEM since I have not had much success with China made products on my Bimmer!
Camaros are low and the oil pan can get hit - especially when the shocks / struts get worn.
Great CLASS organizing everything is the key to getting from getty up to woha LOL
Thanks for taking time to educate.
This was great, had me cracking up and very informative at the same time!
A like and a thank you to you sir. I will be doing this to my 98 Saturn SL1 today, engine in with the car up on jacks. Wish me luck lol
The part with the gun haha! Nice Tips Do Thanks!
Best presented video I've seen, probably forever. Thankyou. I'll subscribe.
Great information with a sliver of comedy for entertainment - I love the kid interruption - very realistic. Good job!
This is a really good oil pan installation video!! Esp with all thoz lil tips... Thoz two studs to line everything up is genius!
Great video, love your sense of humor.
Good Job! From a fellow mechanic and engineer.
This video was AWESOME!!!! A lot of it is use full info that could easily be adapted to use in resealing a trans axle in a lawn tractor so i posted it to my facebook group Maine Mud Mowers. Hope you get some more views on it and keep up the great how to videos.
Great presentation, very informative, easy to follow along. Great job!!! Thanks
Thanks for the info, I like the stud idea for keeping the pan straight and which permatex to use also helps.
Very cool video, your calm, clear manner is great.
I replaced head gasket on my 2001 Saturn SC1 (SOHC) because of small oil leak 2 years ago, and am about to take the whole engine apart to add the piston oil ring holes as your video shows very nicely...
A few thoughts on the oil pan:
- what about the timing chain cover? a lot of us would be taking that off as well, and the 2 seals are related, as they're the same process and interface in a "T" junction, my intuition says to use a (metal) strait edge to get the bottom face of the timing chain cover absolutely in line with the flat of the block where it mate with oil pan...
- shouldn't we make sure not to let too much RTV squeeze on the inside, for fear that some bits or hunks break off and clog up oil passages?
- I think we all could torque things by hand, but I don't think to Torque or not to Torque is really a question... hehe
- I used Permatex Ultra Black RTV, no leaks... my only question, can I use the stuff I bought 2 years ago, (or even the stuff from a few years before that? ...from sister's 99 VW Golf)
Anyway, your videos are Great!
Really comprehensive and well explained. I needed someone to inspire a bit of confidense in me before i went and did this myself, so thank you for that. A quick FYI, the inline four I am doing (80's toyota) has nuts instead of two of the bolts, to help line it up. The two factory threaded rods help line up the pan - should be handy for a one-man upside-down jackstand repair like mine. Good luck to you
Yes, same as my 2000 Tacoma, 16 bolts and 2 studs needing nuts. I have it off at the moment because the engine got terribly sludged. Spent a lot of time in the valve cover area, including replacing the valve stem oil seals. Decided to remove the oil pan and do the same below, and boy was that a good decision. The oil pickup screen was fully clogged! Cleaned the sludge from the pan and am ready to do the engine hand cleaning. Had been using diesel as a solvent, but thanks to this video I think I will try mineral spirits as well. Is there a solvent that can cut the RTV, rather than a wire wheel?
I think you're the main man! Very thorough. Don't forget, Murphy's Law.. he he.. You'll be alright. Working on cars is therapy Good luck.
Love it! Great video. Are you worried about any RTV squeezing out into the engine where the oil will sit like how it squeezed out?
I'm a fan, well presented! THANK YOU!
use a ball peen hammer to flaten out the oil pan holes when they bend upwards use the steel slab u have lay the lip flat on it and hit it inwards.thats how u can get em back to oem place and will seal perfect.
Great Video, I`m Going to be working on my saturn to replace a subframe.
Thank you for your in-depth view on sealing a sump well. I like doing the job once and will be adhering to torque specs for the recommended job. I have blue rtf and red at hand for my jobs which included intake manifold, manifold aswell as trasmission sump.
What do you know about using no hardening gasket forming sealer to prevent oil seeping through threads on bolts, is it advisable ?
Very informative video. About to do this on my hilux and there were some good tips and tricks in this video! Thanks!
"Hey dad?" Lmao!
Great video, very informative, intuitive and concise!
Excellent.....A job slowly done is "surely" done. Methodical.
Good video. Easy to follow along. Step by step.
Very thorough. It's a nice video to reference for installing an oil pan.
you did a good job.. and torque is very important...
Thanks have a Beamer z3 and tried 2 x and need to place half quart each week. Hope your vid makes better results !