Husqvarna 51 muffler mod & base gasket delete
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 4 พ.ค. 2020
- Simple modifications that yield decent returns on time invested. Once again I didn't get a "stock" video. I've done enough of these to confidently tell you it's worth the effort though.
![เจอประจำ ตอน เปิดเทอมวันแรก [EP.29]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/eFK-B836i60/mqdefault.jpg)
I'm liking your videos man. Straight to the point no bs. That's a nice running saw. Good build.
Thank you
I love my 51 and have it tuned for peak performance. Have cut at least 50 cords of hardwood logs with mine. Great saw!
Just curious if that's a 20" bar and ripping chain? I have a 51 with a 16" and cross cut chain but want to change it to get it Alaskan saw milling. Great video!
Good cutting saw. I really like your editing skills. I’ve been thinking I should start using my GoPro and edit on a computer instead of doing it all on my phone. Those 51 cylinders look just like a partner 500 top end. Which mine ported really well without all that much work. Stock squish was huge.
Thanks. I do it all on my old samsung S7 phone as well, makes life easy....... and I'm lazy. I don't know how the "professionals" do it. It's down right time consuming. I've ported a couple 55's and they came out rather nice. I need to port one of these again someday. I did one once, but just cleaned things up, didn't really get too crazy grinding. They usually sell before they sit on the shelf long enough for me to dig in and do it. Squish is huge no doubt about it. I've done multiple that and up around .030" with no base gasket.
Partner is one of the few brands that I've never owned. I'm guessing there has to be some parts crossover with other manufacturers from what I've read.
Ben Hall that’s how the partner 500 was too, huge squish. Once you get past 10-20 saws it comes quick if you have the time.
Nice video. I will be modifying the muffler on my 51 with this knowledge.
Will the carb need to be adjusted after the muffler mod?
It's a nice easy and tasteful mod that helps a saw run better and cooler. Good work! To answer your question, more times than not, additional tuning is needed after muffler modifications. On these saws, about 1/8 to 1/4 turn out counter clockwise on the high jet (from factory setting), is usually plenty. The low jet should be okay where it's at. Here's a tuning video just in case.
th-cam.com/video/mtTURMk76_0/w-d-xo.html
Does that have a 55 cylinders on it? Never seen a 51 run that well, i ask because these a fairly mint one for sale near me for £130 and i think it could be a back up for my 254xp after watching this.
Can you do the muffler mod without doing the gasket delete?
Just curious why you wouldn't use the Husqvarna Part# 503162103 base gasket? Nice video.
Omitting the base gasket and using sealer instead, reduces distance between the top of the piston and squish band/combustion chamber. It results in a nice increase in compression. These saws respond quite well to the added performance.
Damn bro good job
I bought new one back in 1989 they just started to be sold in my erea i had mine for 3 years cut tons of wood with it there wasnt a saw around that could beat it lol
In my eyes, they are one of the most quintessential "firewood saws" that there ever was.
Ben, We need some help with Husky 51 we have and maybe you can help.
"What bar and chain are you using. ? What sprocket are you using". ? We need the numbers on both. Thanks
Are you looking for part numbers specifically? Or are you just after the following?
On these saws I usually run an 18" or 20" bar with .325" pitch .050" gauge chain.
I can get you part numbers if needed
@@samishsawworks5870 we just tried to put on an Oregon 20" bar & the chain that came with it. Fitment says it is for Husqvarna 50 51 & 55. It does not go on the sprocket smooth as it should, it rattles like crazy. Im thinking it is the sprockets so the question is ....what sprocket are you using. ? 3/8 7 or something else.
@@praetorianpatriot3267 is the bar and chain new or used? These saws came factory with .325 pitch bar, chain and drive sprocket. Does your saw have a rim drive sprocket that rides on splines of the clutch drum or is the drive sprocket/teeth cast right into the clutch drum (spur drive)? Your drive sprocket should say on the side of it (although, you'd have to remove the clutch and drum as it's an outboard clutch.) If it's all one piece, clutch drum and drive teeth, it should say on the side of the clutch drum itself. Does the bar say what pitch & gauge it is? It should say by the base/bar groove area. Perhaps your bar & chain are 3/8 pitch, but drive sprocket is
.325 pitch? Or the sprocket is correct, but badly worn? If you can email pictures, send me some at samishsawworks@gmail.com and we'll see if we can't get it figured out. Picture of any part number or other numbers near base/mounting area of bar would be helpful.
@@samishsawworks5870 Ben, I just purchased the saw used ebay. Came without a bar/chain. Took it to repair shop for help in buying a bar & chain. Repair man cant figure it out why chain jumps off sprocket. We put on a Oregon 20" bar made for Husky 50, 51, and 55. The chain that came with bar jumps off sprocket and makes far too much noise. Not smooth at all as it should. I will send you some pics of sprocket and drum just as soon as i can. Today is friday, ill have them for you at the gmail you gave me today.. thanks so much in advance...
Do u remember what the squish was without the base gasket?
It was right at .030" I believe. If I remember correctly it was almost .050" with gasket.
Very good video! Nice CLEAN job on saw🤙ALOHA!
Does the muff modification effect the back pressure ? In most cases mfg's install metal plates to creat back pressure which is good for the engine performance. What are your thoughts on this ...
These little two stroke engines with cans for mufflers seem to be like diesels. The more air/fuel in and exhaust out, the more power they make. A muffler mod like this one isn't open enough (especially if you retain the spark screen) to make much difference in back pressure........ or more so, I should say, doesn't effect runnability in these simple small 2-stroke engines........to a point. There is a point when a muffler is SO open that it let's the exhaust out too fast. It doesn't "stuff,reflect, or back pressure" the unspent fuel in the exhaust charge back into the cylinder and let's a larger portion than normal of the unspent fuel pass through and straight out the muffler with the exhaust. This mostly has to do with tuned pipes though. On saws with these simple "canisters" for mufflers they're pretty archaic to begin with. More there for noise reduction than anything else in my eyes. There is almost always an increased power gain the more you open up a muffler of this simple design. There is a point where the added noise and fuel consumption (from the exhaust exiting so quickly & carrying a fair amount of the fresh air/fuel charge with it) that the returns in power are not worth it for MOST PEOPLE. I've found no runnability issues until I have a muffler exit more than 150%+ of the exhaust port size on an otherwise stock saw. In this range, SOMETIMES, the low jet tuning & idle speed becomes "finicky." My opinion is that for the most part aside from excessive noise and fuel consumption they don't really care about back pressure. I have a ported work saw that runs a custom muffler that is nearly "open to atmosphere" with strait pipes 200%+ of the exhaust port. It runs fantastic. Noisy as all hell, but a great reliable runner that sees regular use. I found power every "additional amount" I opened it up along the way getting to the point it's at now. For most people, I think that a muffler exit close to 100% of exhaust port is a perfect compromise between noise, fuel consumption, & power added. All that being said, back pressure absolutely is a factor in making BIG power though. That is why we see custom tuned pipes on 2-stroke race saws, carts, etc. If we could run full tuned pipes on work saws we all would, but obviously that's not practical. So, with these simple "can" mufflers I've found, the more I open one up the more power it makes....... or more so, the faster cut times it shows. Some say there is torque lost with a muffler that is too open, but I am yet to see it. As always, this is only one man's opinion of course ;)
Sorry, I kinda derailed there haha
Superb info for a derail.
I have a Husqvarna 36. Little homestead cutter. I could use a little more power. Might try a muffler mod versus buying a bigger chainsaw. I'm not felling 100 year old monster trees or anything. Mainly old black walnut, apple, and ash trees that died from blight and pestilence. Nothing too "thick" in the trunk. Or tall for that matter.
Still, a nicely tuned machine is better than the oppsite.
@@mikeclement5383 The Husqvarna 36 is a two piece muffler, but it only has a small outlet "slit" in the muffler for an exit if I remember correctly. They don't have a bolt on deflector like these saws. If you have means to add a tube outlet or drill a hole and weld/bolt on a side deflector, I think it would benefit for sure. I have a 36 that had a muffler with a tube exit at one time. It made it a nice strong runner for the size.
I lost the gasket on my 55 muffler and the bolts ran lose for some time so the mod I was running was a gas leak. Tuning was a bitch, so I fixed the gasket and put lock tight on the muffler bolts and now she runs fine. lol I may try this just for the hell of it.
That’s some great info! Woke that baby right up! 👍👍👍👍🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🙏🙏🙏🙏
The 51/55 platform has to be one of my favorite all time "simple saws." They're so easy to work on and are just an all around good, reliable, firewood saw.
@@samishsawworks5870 got a nice one on the shelf, waiting for a weight lose program!
Mines a 55, I’ll keep an eye out for a 346 for ya, I love mine!
@@simpleman4224 nice! The 346's just about never pop up here. I have an old 350 I've been thinking of converting. Oem top end is only $125 right now
@@samishsawworks5870 I’ve got a 2053 or2153? J red not sure, I’ll check it for sure if you’re interested? Pretty much complete I think
Have you ever put a Stihl 028 piston in a Husqvarna 55 ?
I have not, I had one that I was in the process of doing with that direction in mind, but I sold it before I had the chance.
What’s all involved with that. I think the husky 55 has wider rod so don’t u have machine the piston to accept the rod?
@@Dfchainsaws Yes you have to machine the pin boss on the inside of the piston, but it isn't much. You can do it with a dremmel or a flat file. The 46mm 028 super piston already has a dome/pop up on it so it makes for a nice bump in compression. You'll have to cut the squish band or use a thicker base gasket in order to gain proper squish clearance from what I remember.
Ben Hall ok thanks for the help
Hey got my 028 super piston in . It’s 40 thousand taller then the Husqvarna 55 piston. Would u machine squish band or machine the piston? Or who makes thicker gasket?
Bravo 🙏
That little thing would go up against most anything....it CUTS!
They're good reliable runners that's for sure!
140psi Good compresion 372xp oem ?
about 10 psi off of oem spec. so yes that is good
@@nathanbouchard5911 Master, will the power be much lower? from the factory new saw with this compression of 140 psi?
@@Sensei948 i wouldnt worry too much about it take your muffler off and look at your piston if it isnt wrecked your fine
She cuts, eh!
Hey, do you do saw work for other people?
Shorter bar than 'ol Buckin' would ever run, but she does cut 'eh ;) haha
This series is one of my favorites for "firewood" saws.
@@jolkraeremeark6949 I sure do. Mostly local here in the upper left of Washington state, but if you have any questions, feel free to email samishsawworks@gmail.com
@@samishsawworks5870 I have 346xp , 50, 51 371xp and 372xp. The 51 could really use a chain break/clutch cover and a new top cover. Just not sure if it is worth spending on?
@@jolkraeremeark6949 that's a GREAT line up you have!! It's always a hard balance. Whether you're looking to sell it, keep it, etc. If you already have close to $200 into the 51 it's hard to justify...... sometimes. If you don't have any $ into it , then $60ish for a clutch cover & top cover doesn't sound so bad. If you're not opposed to cheap overseas parts, then you can be in for around $40. They're great saws and with minor mods, they punch above their weight class. To me, I'll spend more than the saw is worth, because I like to see them resurrected. I sometimes end upside down in a saw though. If I'm keeping it it's not such a big deal, but if I'm trying to sell it becomes a deciding factor real quick. If I had extra parts I'd help you out, unfortunately all I have left after all my "projects" is a melted top cover.