I agree with Mr. Rafferty. The cooler air could give you an advantage. As far as the prop goes, the rubber will continue to deteriorate and the pins can't hold.
I drill the gap between the prop and hub a few thou smaller than the round bar I use to press in. Make the hole slightly larger than the rubber gap so the pins have purchase in the metal both sides. I have fixed three spun props like this all work great. Need to use a drill press to make sure holes are dead straight. Sweet
I don't know if you have a prop guy around you but if you know what you wanted done the guy I used could do a double cup on the trailing edge that would make it act like another degree of pitch. He could also remove the cup to act like 1 or 2 degree less pitch
I would say that's the proper prop for your boat and motor set up .. keep recording always look forward to your videos they are very helpful for us regular boat folks that don't know alot about their boats
Hey. Hahaha. I'm just regular boat folk too! But I have learned a lot through all this crap. I really wanted to be fishing not fooling around with this stuff. So whats going on, seems like you just fell off the planet. I did see your paint job, looks great. I've been doing the same thing in the rv, Hahaha, it's looking good! After the big leak, I figured it was time for a makeover. Thanks again for tuning in!
maybe try some rebar next time. hahaha you crack me up buddy. Hey worth a shot trying the nails but I was going to say you put them in line with the three supports. You could really go bold and drill a hole through the prop and shaft and bolt it but if you hit anything with the prop would be very bad indeed🤔
Engine make more power with denser oxygen charge in cold weather, also a slight chop helps to break up the hullsticking to the water look perfect for a speed run. Maybe have a prop rebuilder press in a new hub
You are right on all counts but denser air also will generate more drag against the hull and, in terms of top speed, will likely more than offset any motor power gain. Still, I salute TOO's dedication in his pursuit of the ultimate hack. But really, half-hearted efforts at solving a problem rarely yield satisfactory results. I concur with you, TOO should have a new bub pressed in and be happy everafter ! Regards.
Okay I have a question for you, Is the engine mounted with the mounting bracket resting on the top of the transom? If it is, you might try raising the engine up one or two holes. It could make a big difference. However, it is probably most important to sort out the hub situation in the prop(s) before changing other things. Keep up the good work.
@@ct1762 Well, I'm not too sure about your statement. Ask any golfer and you will be told that due to higher drag, a ball travels less in cold air. TOO's boat hull sure will generate a lot of resistance. As to colder water, once the boat is on plane, I doubt it would makema measurable difference. Air temperature is one of the closely monitored variables when sanctioning authorithies oversee marine record speed attempts and that is because it does make a difference. Regards !
@@ct1762 Actually, an outboard motor creates propulsion by pushing water with the prop. Denser water is harder to move. It also create more drag on the lower unit and prop blades. Gear oil is also thicker until it warms up from friction. As far a cold air goes, it's denser and therefore has more oxygen which helps the engine lean out a little and maybe give it a little more horsepower, but that would be negligible on an engine this size. Also it's Florida in the middle of the day, so I don't think air temperature is much of a factor here. However, the water temperature has cooled off considerably since summer and doesn't change much during the day due to shorter daylight hours. I'm thinking someone else is wrong here. 😜🤣
@@uhoh71 the water temp. would not be much of a factor vs. cold air. after 35 years of testing boats from the spring to the fall up north, a hot day will sap 2 mph or so on a lighter hull over 35 mph (roughly). the gear oil warms up quickly and will also be a non-factor. now if it was salt water, i see 2 mph as well since its more dense. my argument here is the density of the water isn't going to change much due to temp, and especially wont effect a hull like this that has so much wetted surface. how much more dense would the fresh water be with a 10% temperature drop?
You have enough power in the motor to fit a full size prop the same as the one that spun out.It would probably bring your revs down from 6000 to 5500 and do more on the top speed.
Hey. Thanks for tuning in. I want the highest rpm's I can get. The revs will come down to range when I put the weight back in the boat. I can still buy that prop brand new on ebay for $100. But it won't be the same because it hasn't been "buzzed" down over the years. The old prop is no longer 13 diameter, it's been buzzed so many times it's now 12 1/2 diameter. I'll find what I need. Thanks again & Stay tuned !
@@THISOLDOUTBOARD1 Just my take on it,with more facial area on the blades,I reckon you would get more thrust,more top speed and it would cover the weight in the boat. There's a lot of dynamics to consider.Have you thought of talking to a prop supplier.? I used one here in London,they reshaped and changed the pitch on a new prop for me . I'm from Manchester uk. Your $100 prop would cost £120 here in the uk.
Getting to squirrely for ya better get a small foil or smaller trim tabs. Even another 3-4 inches on each side of your cavitation plate would do wonders, those thin flat ones Maybe you could get a new prop like the original one, remove material, find a tire shop with a good bubble balancer to check it.
Question. My 70hp was running perfect and was very smoot h virtually no vibration. Whacked a rock and the vibration started. .bad. even out of gear. Assumed drive shaft. Swapped to a different lower unit and the "idle" vibration did reduce but is still there. What else could have been damaged to create that out of gear low rpm vibration? Going to replace the prop...that's a given but either the second lower unit also was tweaked although less so. OR something else got damaged when I hit the rocks...was low throttle when we hit those rocks, three HARD hits.
Hey. Thanks for tuning in. Well, possibly the lower crankshaft seal may have taken a slight hit, or the o-ring that fits on the top of the driveshaft fell off or broke off, the o-ring is there to help the driveshaft from vibrating in the seal. Was the o-ring on the driveshaft when you took off the gearcase, and/or did the new gearcase have the o-ring on it. Sometimes the o-ring will get stuck in the seal and then get stuffed up in the seal when the gearcase/driveshaft goes back on.
@@THISOLDOUTBOARD1 The o-ring was on the one that I pulled out, and I did put a new one on the shaft of the different lower unit I put in. Wonder if I broke or damaged the bottom of the crank itself
I know it feels faster when it’s 30 degrees out because the tears freeze up your eyes and you just want to stop. Not a fan of cold water boating you can put on every piece of clothes you have and it’s still to cold. 50 more days until spring can’t wait.
I’d keep that chopped prop and have a new hub pressed in. That rubber looks dry rotted .I don’t know if you have a prop shop near you. I once found one on eBay. Buy it now and he refurbished my prop for a flat price. I think his shop was called Randy’s prop shop.
@@THISOLDOUTBOARD1 11 3/4 x 17 It had an 1977 55 hp rude on it. I was able to get 29.7 mph. That motors sold and am having a Johnson 70 hp installed this spring. So I am finding all of your videos quite helpful.
@@PaulyV56 Hey. Cool. I think I was getting around 36 with my 79 55. I only gained a couple mph with the 60 but its a heavier outboard and the 55 was bored out.
@@THISOLDOUTBOARD1 It had low compression in one cylinder, well 1 was 125 the other 90. Anyway , the 70 johnson will get me where you are . Appreciate all you do and to keep us tinny boaters motivated.
Hey. Thanks for tuning in. Go to 16:00 minutes in on my carb clean video. There'll about the same when it comes to setting the float. Thanks again & Stay tuned ! th-cam.com/video/401zCRctu1c/w-d-xo.html
@THIS OLD OUTBOARD ahhhh, got it! Thank you very much my friend. That explains it all. I changed my reeds from the stock to boyeson reeds. I did float the reed cages with a piece of glass and some 320 grit. The midrange to fu throttle is there! But, she is leaning out on me. I rebuilt the top carb today and that helped. I wi rebuild the center and bottom probably tomorrow and go run it again. You're a wealth of information when it comes to these OMC'S. Thanks again!
Dude, You want to check if its spinning...simple...just make a file mark in line with each other on the edge of the inner metal part of the hub with the prop side, simply on each side of the rubber, then take it out run it hard and then check to see if the marks are still aligned, not rocket science
Hey JDB. Thanks for tuning in! Yes I know how to mark a prop. Just as I marked the 17 pitch Stainless Steel Prop in this Video and also how mentioned marking the Original Prop I was running. In this Video! Watch the Video, not rocket science! Hahaha. Just screwin wit ya. Thanks again & Stay tuned for the next episode !
Congrats on finally figuring out how to get your speed back!!! Looks like you will either have to have the old prop rehubbed or get a new prop of the same type and cut it down... But then you will have a new problem... as you will need a bigger lake for all those mph! 😲
One more comment, then I'll shut up, ha ha. Be careful running that motor at such high rpms. I had a 72 65hp triumph on a 13 ft Duracraft Deep V runabout that ran in about the 6000 rpm range and one day it spit one of the piston skirts through the block. Never made any knocking/rattling sounds or anything. I dissected it and found that the wrist pen holes on all 3 Pistons were egg shaped and had about 0.040 thousands slack. Of course, I ran it like that for 3 or 4 years before that happened. Just a word of caution. Not sure why it wasn't rattling like crazy.
I haven't been messing with outboards long, grew up with chevy/MOPAR inboards. But I've asked more questions than others like to answer, researched, read Q&A forums, watched a lot of vids. These Johnson 2-strokes will apparently run a lifetime at 5800-6300 rpm, mine seems to like 6100 for it's cruising. The other two are yammys-just rebuilt the 115, factory swapped the #1 compression rings, one upside down. I rebuilt another Johnson powerhead for an extra. Brothers thought the other had done the mixing and on the sixth gallon it spun a bearing.
GET A NEW HUP PUD IN IT. nails well get you home maybe. 🏡. What you looking for... 7 or 6 RPM . But 34mph you top end...put the gas an battery in front..maybe...
Hey. Thanks for tuning in! I don't want to fix it or I would have already. The nails were just an experiment. I'm looking for 6 at 40+ mph with an empty boat, what it was doing before it spun out. Once I put the casting deck back in and other weight, batteries and stuff the rpm's will come down into range at 55+. Thanks again. Follow the Saga & Stay tuned !
I’m starting to think you just like riding in the boat he he !! and I would never buy a new prop and cut it down. There is no way you can get it cut down and balanced like it should be doing it yourself. Just order one that was made for it from the factory and you might gain your one mph . I bet gps isn’t that accurate anyways. Good luck
I agree with Mr. Rafferty. The cooler air could give you an advantage. As far as the prop goes, the rubber will continue to deteriorate and the pins can't hold.
Thanks again for tuning in!
Only way to make sure is to get it rebubbed at a prop shop. I had one done, what a difference.
Thanks again for tuning in!
I drill the gap between the prop and hub a few thou smaller than the round bar I use to press in. Make the hole slightly larger than the rubber gap so the pins have purchase in the metal both sides. I have fixed three spun props like this all work great.
Need to use a drill press to make sure holes are dead straight. Sweet
Hey. Yeah I was just winging it. Thanks again & Stay tuned !
I don't know if you have a prop guy around you but if you know what you wanted done the guy I used could do a double cup on the trailing edge that would make it act like another degree of pitch. He could also remove the cup to act like 1 or 2 degree less pitch
Thanks again for tuning in! I'll have to check around
Probably won’t spin out because it keeps getting hot and sticky and gluing itself back keep making the real life saga 👍🏻
Thanks again for tuning in!
I would say that's the proper prop for your boat and motor set up .. keep recording always look forward to your videos they are very helpful for us regular boat folks that don't know alot about their boats
Hey. Hahaha. I'm just regular boat folk too! But I have learned a lot through all this crap. I really wanted to be fishing not fooling around with this stuff. So whats going on, seems like you just fell off the planet. I did see your paint job, looks great. I've been doing the same thing in the rv, Hahaha, it's looking good! After the big leak, I figured it was time for a makeover. Thanks again for tuning in!
Yeah I got sick for a few days and then I've just been pulling those long hours's work I have had time to do anything
maybe try some rebar next time. hahaha you crack me up buddy. Hey worth a shot trying the nails but I was going to say you put them in line with the three supports. You could really go bold and drill a hole through the prop and shaft and bolt it but if you hit anything with the prop would be very bad indeed🤔
Thanks again for tuning in!
Engine make more power with denser oxygen charge in cold weather, also a slight chop helps to break up the hullsticking to the water look perfect for a speed run. Maybe have a prop rebuilder press in a new hub
You are right on all counts but denser air also will generate more drag against the hull and, in terms of top speed, will likely more than offset any motor power gain. Still, I salute TOO's dedication in his pursuit of the ultimate hack. But really, half-hearted efforts at solving a problem rarely yield satisfactory results. I concur with you, TOO should have a new bub pressed in and be happy everafter ! Regards.
Hey. Thanks again for tuning in!
Okay I have a question for you, Is the engine mounted with the mounting bracket resting on the top of the transom? If it is, you might try raising the engine up one or two holes. It could make a big difference. However, it is probably most important to sort out the hub situation in the prop(s) before changing other things. Keep up the good work.
Hey. No. Been over this a dozen times and checked it a few episodes back. Its perfect. Thanks again for tuning in!
This is no longer a saga its an obsession! Get a hub pressed in that sucker and get to fishn!😆
Hahaha. Thanks again for tuning in!
Great video! Keep trying you’ll get her up to 40 mph eventually. I’m was just curious if you know the approximate weight of your boat?
Hey. Thanks for tuning in. I haven't a clue. And I'm terrible at guessing! Thanks again & Stay tuned !
The water is colder and denser this time of year. Creates more drag. That could be the 1 or 2 mph.
wrong. the air temp is what matters. hes gained 1 or 2 mph from the denser air.
@@ct1762 Well, I'm not too sure about your statement. Ask any golfer and you will be told that due to higher drag, a ball travels less in cold air. TOO's boat hull sure will generate a lot of resistance. As to colder water, once the boat is on plane, I doubt it would makema measurable difference. Air temperature is one of the closely monitored variables when sanctioning authorithies oversee marine record speed attempts and that is because it does make a difference. Regards !
@@ct1762 Actually, an outboard motor creates propulsion by pushing water with the prop. Denser water is harder to move. It also create more drag on the lower unit and prop blades. Gear oil is also thicker until it warms up from friction. As far a cold air goes, it's denser and therefore has more oxygen which helps the engine lean out a little and maybe give it a little more horsepower, but that would be negligible on an engine this size. Also it's Florida in the middle of the day, so I don't think air temperature is much of a factor here. However, the water temperature has cooled off considerably since summer and doesn't change much during the day due to shorter daylight hours. I'm thinking someone else is wrong here. 😜🤣
@@uhoh71 the water temp. would not be much of a factor vs. cold air. after 35 years of testing boats from the spring to the fall up north, a hot day will sap 2 mph or so on a lighter hull over 35 mph (roughly). the gear oil warms up quickly and will also be a non-factor. now if it was salt water, i see 2 mph as well since its more dense. my argument here is the density of the water isn't going to change much due to temp, and especially wont effect a hull like this that has so much wetted surface. how much more dense would the fresh water be with a 10% temperature drop?
Thanks again for tuning in!
I bet if you shave your beard and head you'll go faster....HaHa love your vids captain thanks
I bet you have something there !!!
Hahaha! Thanks again for tuning in!
You have enough power in the motor to fit a full size prop the same as the one that spun out.It would probably bring your revs down from 6000 to 5500 and do more on the top speed.
Hey. Thanks for tuning in. I want the highest rpm's I can get. The revs will come down to range when I put the weight back in the boat. I can still buy that prop brand new on ebay for $100. But it won't be the same because it hasn't been "buzzed" down over the years. The old prop is no longer 13 diameter, it's been buzzed so many times it's now 12 1/2 diameter. I'll find what I need. Thanks again & Stay tuned !
@@THISOLDOUTBOARD1 Just my take on it,with more facial area on the blades,I reckon you would get more thrust,more top speed and it would cover the weight in the boat.
There's a lot of dynamics to consider.Have you thought of talking to a prop supplier.?
I used one here in London,they reshaped and changed the pitch on a new prop for me .
I'm from Manchester uk.
Your $100 prop would cost £120 here in the uk.
@@stanwilson8089 thx again !
Love the vids! You should just get a new hub pressed into the prop and be done with it.
Hey. Thanks !. I don't want to fix it or I would have already. Time for something new! Thanks again for tuning in!
Getting to squirrely for ya better get a small foil or smaller trim tabs. Even another 3-4 inches on each side of your cavitation plate would do wonders, those thin flat ones
Maybe you could get a new prop like the original one, remove material, find a tire shop with a good bubble balancer to check it.
Hey. Thanks for tuning in. Yeah I'll figure something out! Thanks again !
Question. My 70hp was running perfect and was very smoot h virtually no vibration. Whacked a rock and the vibration started. .bad. even out of gear. Assumed drive shaft. Swapped to a different lower unit and the "idle" vibration did reduce but is still there. What else could have been damaged to create that out of gear low rpm vibration? Going to replace the prop...that's a given but either the second lower unit also was tweaked although less so. OR something else got damaged when I hit the rocks...was low throttle when we hit those rocks, three HARD hits.
Hey. Thanks for tuning in. Well, possibly the lower crankshaft seal may have taken a slight hit, or the o-ring that fits on the top of the driveshaft fell off or broke off, the o-ring is there to help the driveshaft from vibrating in the seal. Was the o-ring on the driveshaft when you took off the gearcase, and/or did the new gearcase have the o-ring on it. Sometimes the o-ring will get stuck in the seal and then get stuffed up in the seal when the gearcase/driveshaft goes back on.
@@THISOLDOUTBOARD1 The o-ring was on the one that I pulled out, and I did put a new one on the shaft of the different lower unit I put in. Wonder if I broke or damaged the bottom of the crank itself
@@afleetcommand Maybe after you swap the prop it will clear it up ?
Good stuff! 👍
Thanks! 👍
Just change the prop! Won’t that take care of it?
Yes. Thanks for tuning in!
Hey old school, you should try a jack plate ,,,,,ya baby...
Thanks again for tuning in!
I know it feels faster when it’s 30 degrees out because the tears freeze up your eyes and you just want to stop. Not a fan of cold water boating you can put on every piece of clothes you have and it’s still to cold. 50 more days until spring can’t wait.
Hey. Thanks for tuning in. Yeah I can't wait! Thanks again & Stay tuned !
I’d keep that chopped prop and have a new hub pressed in. That rubber looks dry rotted .I don’t know if you have a prop shop near you. I once found one on eBay. Buy it now and he refurbished my prop for a flat price. I think his shop was called Randy’s prop shop.
Hey. I really didn't want to mess with it or I would have done it already. Time for something new! Thanks again for tuning in!
that boats not flexing without the splashwell? Ive got a 71 16'Starcraft SS. Made into center console.
Hey Paul. No noticeable flex. What size motor/prop are you running. Thanks again for tuning in!
@@THISOLDOUTBOARD1 11 3/4 x 17 It had an 1977 55 hp rude on it. I was able to get 29.7 mph. That motors sold and am having a Johnson 70 hp installed this spring. So I am finding all of your videos quite helpful.
@@PaulyV56 Hey. Cool. I think I was getting around 36 with my 79 55. I only gained a couple mph with the 60 but its a heavier outboard and the 55 was bored out.
@@THISOLDOUTBOARD1 It had low compression in one cylinder, well 1 was 125 the other 90. Anyway , the 70 johnson will get me where you are . Appreciate all you do and to keep us tinny boaters motivated.
Why not put new hub in shaved prop?
Thanks again for tuning in! I didn't want to rehub it or I would have already done it. Time to move on to something new!
@This old outboard.......do you have a vid explaining how to set the floats on a 1980 70 hp evinrude?
Hey. Thanks for tuning in. Go to 16:00 minutes in on my carb clean video. There'll about the same when it comes to setting the float. Thanks again & Stay tuned !
th-cam.com/video/401zCRctu1c/w-d-xo.html
@THIS OLD OUTBOARD ahhhh, got it! Thank you very much my friend. That explains it all. I changed my reeds from the stock to boyeson reeds. I did float the reed cages with a piece of glass and some 320 grit. The midrange to fu throttle is there! But, she is leaning out on me. I rebuilt the top carb today and that helped. I wi rebuild the center and bottom probably tomorrow and go run it again. You're a wealth of information when it comes to these OMC'S. Thanks again!
@@sir-richard4172 Hahaha OK! thanks again
@THIS OLD OUTBOARD have you ever made the I.D. of jets bigger? Did it help or hinder?
@@sir-richard4172 Hey. No I've never tried it.
Put a V4 motor on that thing an 88SPL or a 115.
Thanks again for tuning in!
congratulations on 37 mph 😀👍
Hahaha. Thanks again 👍
Dude, You want to check if its spinning...simple...just make a file mark in line with each other on the edge of the inner metal part of the hub with the prop side, simply on each side of the rubber, then take it out run it hard and then check to see if the marks are still aligned, not rocket science
Hey JDB. Thanks for tuning in! Yes I know how to mark a prop. Just as I marked the 17 pitch Stainless Steel Prop in this Video and also how mentioned marking the Original Prop I was running. In this Video! Watch the Video, not rocket science! Hahaha. Just screwin wit ya. Thanks again & Stay tuned for the next episode !
@@THISOLDOUTBOARD1 Hahaha..no worries buddy!
😅 👍🏻👍🏻
Thanks again !
Congrats on finally figuring out how to get your speed back!!! Looks like you will either have to have the old prop rehubbed or get a new prop of the same type and cut it down... But then you will have a new problem... as you will need a bigger lake for all those mph! 😲
Hahaha. Theres a prop out there somewhere! Thanks again for tuning in!
One more comment, then I'll shut up, ha ha. Be careful running that motor at such high rpms. I had a 72 65hp triumph on a 13 ft Duracraft Deep V runabout that ran in about the 6000 rpm range and one day it spit one of the piston skirts through the block. Never made any knocking/rattling sounds or anything. I dissected it and found that the wrist pen holes on all 3 Pistons were egg shaped and had about 0.040 thousands slack. Of course, I ran it like that for 3 or 4 years before that happened. Just a word of caution. Not sure why it wasn't rattling like crazy.
Hey Thanks ! Will do !
I haven't been messing with outboards long, grew up with chevy/MOPAR inboards. But I've asked more questions than others like to answer, researched, read Q&A forums, watched a lot of vids. These Johnson 2-strokes will apparently run a lifetime at 5800-6300 rpm, mine seems to like 6100 for it's cruising. The other two are yammys-just rebuilt the 115, factory swapped the #1 compression rings, one upside down.
I rebuilt another Johnson powerhead for an extra. Brothers thought the other had done the mixing and on the sixth gallon it spun a bearing.
GET A NEW HUP PUD IN IT. nails well get you home maybe. 🏡. What you looking for... 7 or 6 RPM . But 34mph you top end...put the gas an battery in front..maybe...
Hey. Thanks for tuning in! I don't want to fix it or I would have already. The nails were just an experiment. I'm looking for 6 at 40+ mph with an empty boat, what it was doing before it spun out. Once I put the casting deck back in and other weight, batteries and stuff the rpm's will come down into range at 55+. Thanks again. Follow the Saga & Stay tuned !
I’m starting to think you just like riding in the boat he he !! and I would never buy a new prop and cut it down. There is no way you can get it cut down and balanced like it should be doing it yourself. Just order one that was made for it from the factory and you might gain your one mph . I bet gps isn’t that accurate anyways. Good luck
That's the plan! Thanks again for tuning in!