i knew it!!! i figured it was possible to do this, but no matter what i searched, i haven’t been able to find any resources on this technique and couldn’t quite put the pieces together myself. i’m currently working on a 1960s bottom up mens’ cardigan with sewn stockinette hems on the body, sleeves, and pockets. to avoid all that extra sewing and keep things tidy, i was able to use a three needle join for the body and sleeve hems, but i was resigned to sewing the pocket hems until i saw this video. i just finished the first pocket and this worked like a charm! thank you so much for this and every video of yours!
Thnx, Roxanne. I love the way you always give a technical explanation of every move you make. It is both clearer in regards to the process you're engaged in as well as a great reminder of a larger concept. In this video, your talking about the leading and trailing legs of a stitch and why ultimately a stitch is twisted, was edifying to someone who "knows" those things. Thanks always for your clarity.
That finessed 3-needle BO looks like the slip stitch method of joining granny squares in crochet. It will probably work here as well to use a crochet hook and might be less fiddly.
I used a crochet hook for this flatter joining method on my Riggies beanie. The beanie has vertical joining lines in a contrast colour on the public side and I am so happy to have learned this technique from you Roxanne, it worked great!
🧐 I wonder if, when working in the round, it might be helpful to put in a lifeline on or near the row where you think you’ll be picking up the pearl bumps. It might help to keep you on the same row. Thoughts? I’m about to make a hat from a recycled cashmere sweater. A luxurious thick, deep, ear-warming hem might be just the ticket!
@@RoxanneRichardson You could make the "lifeline" a cable from an interchangeable set and put a stopper on each end while you continue knitting. Then, when you're ready to pick them up put 1 or both needle tips on the cable and carry on. Without trying it first my guess is the stitches would be "picked up" for you already... What do you think? (I'm watching this vid to take a break from a mid-1880s handcrank sewing machine I'm restoring, just to relax and wind down - and trying to give my hands a rest - I've been polishing little metal thread guides and screws and such for hours and hours. Sag...) :-)
@@meganmills6545 I only ever put in lifelines after the fact, picking up the right legs of each st, so I might be visualizing your idea incorrectly, but for this technique, the sts need to be picked up through the heads of the sts, not the legs. The legs and the head of each stitch are separated by the running threads (lower bumps) of the row above it. In a true lifeline situation, it wouldn't matter, because you'd be ripping back to that row, and those running threads would disappear, but in this case, the fabric stays intact. Again, I would suggest trying out your idea on a swatch. That's always the best way to find out whether or not an idea will work, and if it doesn't, to see why. You can't always visualize what you haven't seen before.
@@RoxanneRichardson Hi Roxanne - I tried it out just now on about 8 sts (which was plenty) and you are right - while picking up the "legs" from a normal lifeline will work to create a join it isn't the same path and so joins the live stitches to earlier legs, rather than heads. It's also very tight to work and, worse than that, it's a really ugly join, even using the finessed 3-needle bind off. (Which by the way, I just uses to join the shoulder seams on a vest I knitted for my hubby, putting the "chain" on the wrong side, and it worked beautifully. I'd always been put off the normal, thick, "ridgy" join of the normal 3-needle bind off. To me it is ugly if made as an exposed seam, and uncomfortable is unexposed. The finessed version suffers from neither problem - atttractive and comfortable both ways! - which, course, means it can be attractive both ways on a hem too.) But I digress... back to the lifeline experiment... ...So instead I tried putting in a variation in the normal lifeline by putting the heads immediately below the needle knitting on a cable before knitting on the extra rows needed before folding back to join. This way does work quite nicely and it could be a good method to used when there are a lot of stitches, or you're doing circular knitting, as it ensures no stitches are missed and prevents accidentally "drifting" to pick up heads from an adjacent row of knitting. I quickly found out that a thin, flexible cable is much better and easier to work with than a stiffer or "sturdier" one for this. I got a bonus discovery from the experiment too. As I had tested on a few stitches on a piece of knitting in progress (rather than all the way across the row) I got a nice knitted loop that reminded me of the tabs at the top of some drapes that a hanging rod or pole goes through... Now I'm thinking about how I might use such a thing (or row of such things in a piece of knitting.
I think the lifeline idea would be great just to mark the row that will be joined, even if we have to pick up the purl bumps just below when we finally are ready to join.
Hi, Roxanne. Thanks for another amazing tutorial. Do you have any advice about how to prevent the hemmed edge from flipping up when worn? I do like the polished look, but when I've worn my one hemmed top, I'm really bothered by the way it often flips up. Thanks and Happy New Year!
It needs to be long enough to combat the roll. You can also work the part that will be on the inside with a smaller needle, on 10% fewer sts, or in ribbing. That will help the inside circumference to be smaller, which also helps.
i knew it!!! i figured it was possible to do this, but no matter what i searched, i haven’t been able to find any resources on this technique and couldn’t quite put the pieces together myself. i’m currently working on a 1960s bottom up mens’ cardigan with sewn stockinette hems on the body, sleeves, and pockets. to avoid all that extra sewing and keep things tidy, i was able to use a three needle join for the body and sleeve hems, but i was resigned to sewing the pocket hems until i saw this video. i just finished the first pocket and this worked like a charm! thank you so much for this and every video of yours!
Thnx, Roxanne. I love the way you always give a technical explanation of every move you make. It is both clearer in regards to the process you're engaged in as well as a great reminder of a larger concept. In this video, your talking about the leading and trailing legs of a stitch and why ultimately a stitch is twisted, was edifying to someone who "knows" those things. Thanks always for your clarity.
One learns something new every day. You are a magician 😊
I am not familiar with this, but now I am thanks to your excellent tutorial.
Very clever technique, thanks you Roxanne, will definitely try it!
As a new knitter, left handed, and learned Continental, this was so helpful. Thanks
Thank you for sharing this. I look forward to using this.
Lovely finition for the hem. I prefer the Finessed Three-Needle bind off. Very clear tuto, as ever, Thanks !
Im so happy when you explain about the left handed mirror knitting 😊
Thank you. So helpful. I love the close ups and showing with holding the yarn in both hands.
Thank you very much, Roxanne. I need to hem a sweater shortly so this video is timely.
That’s a great technique Roxanne. Thank you. The technique would have been great for my pixie hat (top down) with a picot edge 🙋🏼🏴
Thank you, this will be very helpful.
Excellent. Thank you!
Grazie Roxanne per tutto quello che ci insegni.Ti auguro un 2024 ricco di tante cose belle!
That finessed 3-needle BO looks like the slip stitch method of joining granny squares in crochet. It will probably work here as well to use a crochet hook and might be less fiddly.
Whatever makes it easier for you is the way to go.
I used a crochet hook for this flatter joining method on my Riggies beanie. The beanie has vertical joining lines in a contrast colour on the public side and I am so happy to have learned this technique from you Roxanne, it worked great!
🧐 I wonder if, when working in the round, it might be helpful to put in a lifeline on or near the row where you think you’ll be picking up the pearl bumps. It might help to keep you on the same row. Thoughts? I’m about to make a hat from a recycled cashmere sweater. A luxurious thick, deep, ear-warming hem might be just the ticket!
I'm not sure how visible it would be from the purl side, but it's worth a try.
@@RoxanneRichardson You could make the "lifeline" a cable from an interchangeable set and put a stopper on each end while you continue knitting. Then, when you're ready to pick them up put 1 or both needle tips on the cable and carry on. Without trying it first my guess is the stitches would be "picked up" for you already... What do you think? (I'm watching this vid to take a break from a mid-1880s handcrank sewing machine I'm restoring, just to relax and wind down - and trying to give my hands a rest - I've been polishing little metal thread guides and screws and such for hours and hours. Sag...) :-)
@@meganmills6545 I only ever put in lifelines after the fact, picking up the right legs of each st, so I might be visualizing your idea incorrectly, but for this technique, the sts need to be picked up through the heads of the sts, not the legs. The legs and the head of each stitch are separated by the running threads (lower bumps) of the row above it. In a true lifeline situation, it wouldn't matter, because you'd be ripping back to that row, and those running threads would disappear, but in this case, the fabric stays intact. Again, I would suggest trying out your idea on a swatch. That's always the best way to find out whether or not an idea will work, and if it doesn't, to see why. You can't always visualize what you haven't seen before.
@@RoxanneRichardson Hi Roxanne - I tried it out just now on about 8 sts (which was plenty) and you are right - while picking up the "legs" from a normal lifeline will work to create a join it isn't the same path and so joins the live stitches to earlier legs, rather than heads. It's also very tight to work and, worse than that, it's a really ugly join, even using the finessed 3-needle bind off. (Which by the way, I just uses to join the shoulder seams on a vest I knitted for my hubby, putting the "chain" on the wrong side, and it worked beautifully. I'd always been put off the normal, thick, "ridgy" join of the normal 3-needle bind off. To me it is ugly if made as an exposed seam, and uncomfortable is unexposed. The finessed version suffers from neither problem - atttractive and comfortable both ways! - which, course, means it can be attractive both ways on a hem too.)
But I digress... back to the lifeline experiment...
...So instead I tried putting in a variation in the normal lifeline by putting the heads immediately below the needle knitting on a cable before knitting on the extra rows needed before folding back to join. This way does work quite nicely and it could be a good method to used when there are a lot of stitches, or you're doing circular knitting, as it ensures no stitches are missed and prevents accidentally "drifting" to pick up heads from an adjacent row of knitting. I quickly found out that a thin, flexible cable is much better and easier to work with than a stiffer or "sturdier" one for this. I got a bonus discovery from the experiment too. As I had tested on a few stitches on a piece of knitting in progress (rather than all the way across the row) I got a nice knitted loop that reminded me of the tabs at the top of some drapes that a hanging rod or pole goes through... Now I'm thinking about how I might use such a thing (or row of such things in a piece of knitting.
I think the lifeline idea would be great just to mark the row that will be joined, even if we have to pick up the purl bumps just below when we finally are ready to join.
Thanks. Great video. I'll have to incorporate that in an upcoming project.
Great episode!
TT’s are so next level. Happy New Year!
Hi, Roxanne. Thanks for another amazing tutorial. Do you have any advice about how to prevent the hemmed edge from flipping up when worn? I do like the polished look, but when I've worn my one hemmed top, I'm really bothered by the way it often flips up. Thanks and Happy New Year!
It needs to be long enough to combat the roll. You can also work the part that will be on the inside with a smaller needle, on 10% fewer sts, or in ribbing. That will help the inside circumference to be smaller, which also helps.
Thank you
🧶 Thank you
❤❤❤