Sim Cube 30nm Direct Drive Wheel Base Review
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 27 ก.ย. 2024
- For many years we sim racers have been using China built plastic wheels for our hobby. And then came the direct drive wave. Wheels that might cost us over a thousand dollars but built to last and offer increased performance.
The Open Sim Wheel or OSW for short is an option when considering a direct drive wheel. In these cases we combine a purchasable motor, a separate wheel rim, pedals and everything else and match it with software available on the internet.
The Sim Cube by Sim Racing Bay is one of the companies making a variety of Direct Drive OSW wheels packages available to sim racers. In this video we are reviewing the monster powered 30 nm version of their wheel with power supply. For testing we are using an adapted Fanatec wheel rim. We also cover the setup, installation and the on track performance of the wheel.
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"WE ARE NOT CONVEYER BELTS! " Man I love you
Maybe we are man.... Maybe this is all just a big conspiracy.....
He IS RoboCole!
Hey GM, perhaps you should enhance your muscle with Terminator style electromechanical power! imagine how difficult it would be to get titwinkled if you could hold off a punt at 30nM
lmao titwinkled? Thanks for that.
who's this wheel made for?
FOR THE PROFESSIONAL
The INI file in iracing give you the ability to adjust FFB strength in NM instead of percent. If you adjust it with strength the force feedback is not linear. Change the INI file and see how you like it. Also adjusting it with Nm will make the wheel output linear. Also the NM setting is reversed. Setting it to 30nm wheel sett it at 100 percent. So setting it 45 or 60 nm will set it lower. I know this doesn't sound right but this is the correct way to run OSW in Iracing. Like one of the other viewers said, make sure to select linear.
Yeah iracing is weird with OSW, but other sims seems to be fine, I can generally run around 50 or so percent on say Assetto Corsa or Automobolista just fine.
Very good review. I want to add my points since buying the OSW which I have owned for a year...
1. I am not a professional driver, nor real or sim. However, I got this because of the flaws in gear driven & belt drive wheelbases such as cogging, friction, FFB fade which were affecting not only the immersion but also how well I could do in a sim + it was irritating me. So there will be those like me who buy this for a more serious experience more so than competing professionally.
2. I did not buy this specifically for the FFB strength or how much NM it could offer. Instead I got it for the smoothness, no FFB fade & direct steering response because of the high resolution. In fact, I think I am running this at a quarter of its power & it is more than enough for me to have the best steering feel in most cars. Some others though I have to turn up the FFB strength to get better steering feel but maybe 10 to 15% more on average. Depends on the car of course, because remember that modern cars with electric steering have much less feel + feedback than older ones with hydraulic drivetrains in real life.
3. If you have no patience with setting up a wheelbase properly & all you want is Plug & Play before starting your favourite sim, then forget it. This also includes using third party apps to improve the FFB such as in Assetto Corsa, Iracing, etc..which are a must to get the best out of the OSW in these sims. I am not a technical PC guy yet I have managed to configure this for Assetto Corsa to my liking & it is not difficult because if I can do this then so can anyone. I don't want to put anyone off but just be aware of what Shaun said in this video about the same subject.
4. I highly recommend a leather alcantara or suede rim to prevent hand slippage because of the strong FFB. Also racing gloves will really help too.
Overall, I am very happy with the OSW & I cannot see myself getting any other wheelbase for many years.
Nice review Shaun, really enjoyed it.
I've been running an OSW for about 2 years so will add a couple of comments.
In my head the OSW concept was originally a bit like buying a set of plans for an outdoor BBQ (or a sim rig). You just then go and order the bricks. You would order all the bits yourself from possibly 12 different suppliers including the Mige from China.
Then at "phase 2" helpful people started buying in bulk, putting it in a kit and finding a margin.
That's when I bought mine, that cooler master you had-luxury! I had to connect all the wiring and circuit boards myself and then put it all in a box.
This is "phase 3" really where Simcube do all that and you only have to plug stuff in.
So you have 3 ways to do OSW depending on how much you can or want to handle yourself.
My wheel only needs switching on, no re centreing, so maybe there's a bug there.
"Last wheel you will ever need"-Agreed big time. If you spend $300 on a wheel and it lasts 3 years that's $100 per annum. My arms will go b4 this puppy does!
Power is a big part but there was another aspect you touched only very lightly. The retail products work from a smaller ,motor but ALSO have to send via a belt or plastic gears. So there is a response time/accuracy factor. Those little "granular" bits of feedback are clearer not just due to power but because you are holding onto the motor shaft rather than a belt that's connected to it.
Which brings me to power and 30 nm vs 20 nm. Your video makes clear that 30mn is excessive but why not have it anyway? My conclusion was to go for 20nm due to the mass of the rotating shaft (lighter). Less mass means finer higher frequency FFB has higher fidelity.
Another factor is your choice of wheel, the smaller the diameter the less leverage you have on the shaft so more power. I use a Fanatec F1 wheel (best formula wheel solution for OSW IMO)and use approx. 45% of the power that the 20nm can deliver. I once had an issue in an endurance race and it dropped my wheel settings and delivered 100%. I was sweating after 3 laps and didn't think I could manage a stint, worn tyres and reduced grip saved me.
Last point; wear gloves! Cycling or gym gloves are perfect. Otherwise it's blisters.
Thanks for your work.
David O'Reilly Doesn't make sense to look for even lower inertia with the 20 Nm. People on forums harping on about stuff like this do nothing but spread a misrepresentation of what real steering systems behave like. Real life cars have a humungous anount more inertia than a small or large mige. The suspension, steering column, tires, wheels, and more. Also, real life wheels are passive/reactive unlile FFB which is active, this alone means a HUGE difference in general wheel behaviour which is not generally suited to high Nm and part of the reason why FFB servo wheels are way ,way too aggressive, snappy, and wrist-snapping than real life wheels even when setting the FFB to a relatively weaker FFB strength than real life. Also, FFB games have an insanely ridiculous amount of centering spring which even at least one OSW developer admitted is a problem and difficult to fix (partly due to the dated way FFB fundamentally works, with all games, going back to the 1990s).
Literally from the mouth of the men who tested OSW systems, has done all the testing with all sorts of Servo motors. They have tested using servos for printing machines, robotics, any automated systems. They have used kolermorgen, mige, and the lenze motors and much more. They are not comparing SERVO VS CAR steering systems. It be stupid and a waist of time to even compare it like that!! Its SERVO VS SERVO performance!!! Nobody is dumb enough to compare how a servo feels vs the real life car steering. The testing has been done and Servo motors with lower inertia feel better and more refined, that is what I have heard from people who have ran the lenze motor. Now the question is the lenze performance worth the 3 times cost compared to the mige, probably not. How come a majority or maybe all the simulators in the world who are for professional use and training are running Servo Motors!!! There is something to this. The professional industry are using servos. Also nobody has to run OSW at wrist snapping strength. Mine isn't currently running at that strength. Also you are completely missing the point of the strength of using a servo. It makes me mad when David owns the product, and can give his 2 cents on the product and then you get some idiot in chat trying to tell him he doesn't know what he talking about. I would take the opinion of the guy who has owned and tried it for 2 years compared to the keyboard warrior wishing he had one.
So lets run down how the sim actually works. The Sim sends a FFB signal to the wheel and the wheel reacts, and the user responds!! Some crazy loop feedback happens and there input and output constantly happening between the user the sim and the wheel. A servo with a lower inertia is going to be able to accept those forces and react much faster. None of this has anything to do with how an actual car works!!!
David O'Reilly I just want to say thanks for the great review and your insight. You are right about never having to purchase another wheel!!! If you read the mige manual it says it has like 50,000 hours life cycle. Thats like running your wheel for 10 years strait with high torque for 10 years!!! Also we don't put the wheel under as much stress and load constantly as like a factory would. So if anybody is ever thinking of getting a servo base system, just do it. Don't be one of those guys who is always thinking what if!!! Just save up the money and do it!!
Dark Sector Gaming The fact that you start accusing people with personal insults like "keyboard warrior who wishes he has one" shows how ignorant and immature you are. I've had an OSW for over 2 years now with multuple upgrades of it's parts (different encoders, simucube mode, full simucube) so I'm not sure where you're going. There is a lot of unrealism with these wheels as amazing as they are. The point I'm trying to make is that many people are way too concerned with Nm and "on paper numbers" when there's so much more to it than that. Too many are obsessed with numbers like 20 Nm, 30Nm without realizing that's only a fraction of what realistic feedback is like and, often, matching "Nm" with real life doesn't even mean a true representation and can even make the FFB experience worse due to overly active and snappy ffb with way too instant accelerarion rates and extremely over-powered centering spring. It's obviously still amazing but ppl should also be critical instead of only praise (not just with OSWs but in general).
Well Spinelli I don't quite know where to start. You begin with a quite aggressive characterisation of people "Harping On" on forums as if that makes my feedback one of that group of disinformation. That sort of makes it an attack rather than any useful feedback for the viewers. I made a decision to go 20nm rather than 30nm because I believed that the lower reciprocating mass would offer more fidelity in high frequency FFB. The greater the mass the slower it is to move. RF2 for example uses that very well to signal loss of grip. So my thinking was if 30 nm was definitely over-kill then why put up with that extra mass, decision made. I am happy with the decision.
I know and I think most people know that a real steering wheel on a real car is connected to many kilos of hardware from the un-sprung weight of wheels, tyres, brake discs and calipers then through to the steering rack and shaft. That does nothing to diminish my point and my logic. The FFB in a sim is designed to convey signals that replicate what happens in real life. The Sim wheel is trying to replicate the feel that comes through that real life hardware. The OSW has the power and fidelity to tune that as strong or weak as you want. In my point with which you disagree am discussing high frequency FFB. Sometimes things are exaggerated as in a sim we don't get the benefit of that G=Meter called our backside. The maximum force is such a small part of the story. In many ways an OSW will exceed the maximum force from a real car, is that good or bad? is it even a measurement criteria? I don't know, I go to the gym for strength training I don't use my wheel for that.
I am a licensed Motor racing driver and of the cars I have driven on tracks (more than 10 types from 200-400bhp, FWD, RWD, 4WD) had less force in the steering than the OSW wheel I use at 45%. So yes we know that the force of the wheel can be different to real life. However real life is more tiring as your arms are helping to fight G forces (depending on how well you are strapped in).
So I for one am NOT trying to match steering forces with real life. I am simply trying to get the optimum FFB to tell me what the car is doing.
The centreing spring is adjustable, I have mine on Zero so I just get pure FFB.
So sorry, you can tell my that in your opinion it doesn't make sense but to me it makes perfect sense. I am happy with my decision ( BTW I haven't done any upgrades at all in my 2 years of ownership, just happy as it is) and simply passing on my thoughts.
Thinking back to when ISR first started making videos on YT. The wheels Shaun and Darin we’re reviewing and getting excited over we’re literally toys.
Here we are today, all those years later and he has a freakin conveyer belt motor attached to his rig.....and it works....and works well.
This guy has seen and tried it all.
Great review Shaun! You did a great job articulating what using one of these wheels is like.
The emegency stop is also to stop you dislocating your arms and wrists etc if you get your hand or thumb stuck in the wheel or something, therefore it should be mounted next too your feet NOT your hands, you ain't gonna be able to press it with a broken arm or wrist. I own one of these, the 20nm version, and have nearly broken my wrist from forgetting to drive with thumbs on the wheel instead of hooked around it. I mounted it next to my pedals so i can stomp on it if i do mess my wrist up lol. I run it 100% in software, 40% - 50% in game for assetto and pcars 2, dirt etc. Not iracing though, i don't own iracing, but it's nowhere near as strong even at 50% as iracing makes it at 12% at all....something else in the settings needs changing maybe...I know iracing has different type of ffb settings to other games. Try it on assetto 50% game 100% software and see what you think. I have it at 700hz also in simucube which also effects things but I think some ship set to 1000 by default. Also I don't need a rig, I simply have 2 chests of draws and a plank of wood 1 inch thick screwed in to them across the top and it's fine, not much rattling unless I have it really high and nothing to come loose :) Windows recognises it the second I turn it on also but I turn it on after I turn the pc on, only when I want to race. Also i have never ever had to recenter it, once is enough, unless you remove the wheel and put it on in another position, i think maybe a bug somewhere.
Mounting the E-Stop at the feet is an excellent idea and should be standard practice. Hats off to you for a superb idea!!
The Shawn Cole torture test. LOL!
Great review Shaun, thorough and comprehensive as usual. That being said, you left out the comparison to the Accuforce, which currently can be had, with a rim, for $749, half of the cost of the Sim Cube you reviewed, which you said cost $1500. You did mention the Bodnar at $3000, which was a valuable comparison.
Great review buddy! I'll be making a DD wheel purchase myself here shortly.
This guy is an OG in simracing. ONE of the all time greats of a small handful, not many have roots as deep as Shaun Cole.
This is all good but i don't have 2k$ just for the base and dam this is a killer one. I rather stay with my TGT for now. Nice review Shaun.
That was an awesome review/test, tell it like it is like it or not! I really felt bad for you somewhere around the 6%? setting! I know you were trying to show what the product had to offer, but I got the point early on. I might venture to say that this may go beyond a realistic feel by being even stronger than a real race car (thought, releasing the wheel on a crash may be what's advisable.) I've driven around on heavy cars without power steering, and it's tough.....but that just looked outright crazy hard! even without power steering it never was that hard(except parking.) I loved the review and the show! I think that as OSW matures, ease of use will also follow.
I believe it’s SimuCUBE btw
I’ve gone with the Accuforce Pro v2 for $999. With everything that comes with it, the value is unbeatable in today’s market. Sure the button box and wheel could be less generic, but I don’t think that will make me think twice about dropping $999 on it.
How is your wheel? Thinking to go with it .
Honestly the thing that I would like to see in the future would be some guys doing testing on servos with much less force. Maybe 5, 10, and 15 nm. The mige 20nm from china is 325 dollars. Or that's what I purchased mine for. Think if you could get a servo for around 75 - 100 dollars. You could build a Simucube for 500 - 600 dollars!!! That would be in more peoples price range!! Even a DD system with 5 - 10nm would feel better then belt, gear, and pulley systems anyday!
Got exactly the same set up from Sim Racing Bay three weeks ago ;-0. It’s everything this review is saying it to be. And yes you can hurt yourself if you are not careful, but you can also hurt yourself with a kitchen knife if you are not careful ...Shaun, take a look at the TH-cam tutorial about setting up SimuCube wheel with iRacing. You need to tweak some settings in the .ini file to get rid of the unnatural oscillations.
Link to that tutorial?
Great review... Costs a lot of money to be cool. I'll run this V2.5 for a while I think. Killer information Shaun !!!
Stan Donit yo i had a v2. And to b honest fanatec do a fine job. My first impression of osw was actually thinking fanatec have nailed it. After a few teaks with osw and a few months of muscle memory and i could never go back to fanatec or b more happier with DD. Truly amazing!
the key feature of servo motors is there precise positioning. Power of force feedback wood be substantial at 15 N/m and good electronics. My point $900. for a system is enough.
Very thorough review Shaun. Excellent as always.
Very nice!Yes, remove every screw on your rig and apply locktight. They will not hold for long without it :)
After buying a Fanatec CSW v2.5 last year and my hands started going numb after using it on high strength for a few days, I'm confident I'll never want a Direct Drive wheel.
(Yes, I have problems with Tendonitis already so I wasn't too surprised, thankfully the CSW v2.5 is also the smoothest wheel Fanatec has made do date).
Better to change the strength by reducing the amperage in Granity. Set it so you produce somewhere between 10-20Nm. People are using these more for the precise fidelity rather than brute strength. I run 12Nm for daily use.
Also set you .ini to display Nm in the sim strength slider and read up on how to set the strength correctly with this slider, based on each cars Nm output and the Nm your wheel is producing.
The Simpit
Please, can you in short, just in few words, explain how the dd effects to the better lap times. Or anybody with dd. really will be helpfull! Thank you very much!
You can run this on PS4 with GIMX. I have a video running my SimuCUBE direct drive with GTSport and full ffb.
They should call this the wrist deleter
Good to know that there's absolutely no reason to get a 30nm base when 20% is torture. Thanks
That is a really cool wheel. Just very heavy duty.
Great review Shaun.
Interesting comments on e-racing vs training for real life racing. Hopefully we will get to a point where DD goes down in price in which is it the standard for eSports
Somebody should do a video where a bodybuilder use DD with 100% FFB
th-cam.com/video/Kvx4k8WZkPA/w-d-xo.htmlm
Gordon Jones In what world do you consider Jimmy a bodybuilder?
This would be hilarious. The whole point of DD is the responsiveness and the ability to feel all the forces from the sim without any clipping.
Gordon Jones I knew this was coming and still laughed out loud when I clicked
@ Gordon jones different game/motor/in game settings
Can you please make a video with your simucube settings Shawn? also, have you tried iRFFB? makes A LOT of a difference
I wonder why fanatec opted to make their own dd base instead of using the same one as leo bodnar and simucube
It might be good to let people know that this option is orignally a DIY and that the wheel still can be DIY. These companies are adding anywhere from 500 - 600 dollars to the final product. I built my Open Sim Wheel for around 800 - 900 dollars. This review was great but there needs to be a little discusion about the history of the OSW. I sometimes feel that original purpose of the OSW has been lost. It was originally designed and pushed as DIY. So if anybody has the skills or is willing to do the resesrch and learn, OSW is 100 percent in achievable.
Ditto. They are not hard to build yourself either.
The OSW guys in iRacing go apeshit when someone calls the OSW DIY. They claim that its no longer DIY and can be bought off the shelf, just like an Accuforce, Bodnar, Fanatec, Thrustmaster or Logitech.
Lawyer4Ever What you are saying is partially true. Yes it can be purchased as an all in one product. From different online stores. The funny thing is that there is 2 main components to the osw that every company uses. You have the simucube board and the ioni. If you look at all these companies building the OSW all the parts like power supply and case, and the cables are not standard. So all these companies are parting together their own OSW builds and selling them. So they are nothing like any of these mainstream companies.I dont know why they are going ape shit. Im not a fanboy of any product and this just sounds like somebody who is just justifying their purchase. The OSW is 100 percent able to be DIY if you choose that option. It makes no sense to argue this. The ioni motor driver and the simucube come from granite devices. The hole purpose of the OSW was getting away from the markup from companies charging and arm and leg for DD. I still think paying 1500 for OSW is a steel, but it can be made DIY for much cheaper. You just need to spend the time and effort.
I have nothing against people going to a turn key solution, its just frustrating to hear that people would be willing to shill for these companies and say that DIY isnt a thing anymore.
I'm all for capitalistic opportunities, but these companies are just parting together the OSW and acting like its their developed product. OSW in my opinion is best when DIY, it was created in the spirit of DIY.
How did you connect the wheel with cable
Hi Shaun, could you please share your settings for the most common used sims (AC, AMS, RF2, R3E, Iracing)?
So Leo Bodnar, SimuCube2 or Fanatec Podium? Best FFb? not strongest but which one is the best
When I got mine 1 month ago, i didnt had any issue to update firmware , it took me 5 minutes to install the software part.
Did you follow correctly the instruction, i remember, the very first time you turn it on, it has to have all the cable and both usb plugged in, and the emergency cut off button, must be pressed.
Couple of comments corrections...
The iRacing slider numbers that you indicate as % of Strength are not actually % when using linear mode.. They are just arbitrary numbers.. To really find out the numbers you have to set to see the Nm scale in the iRacing app.ini.. When in linear the position of the slider determines the 100% point of telemetry.. If you are running HALF the FFB bar then you are actually at 50% of the wheel capability. So if you were actually hitting red on the Clipping meter you would be getting 100% at that. Just thought I would correct that as you probably ended up going beyond 1:1 with the wheel at some point in there.
Just at 9% is insane
So my question is what is the alternative setup for someone who cant spend that much on one item. maybe something like 1000 for everything but the rig. base, wheel, pedals, maybe shifter, button box that work together from the get go but will last maybe 5 years or so. Is there anything out there for the common man like what I am talking about. Something that will make me faster because it is so good.
what an awsome review
Amazing wheel!
So with direct drive wheels does the force feedback ever clip?
This wheel is VERY dangerous... i bought one... brought in 3 friends... 2 already bought one, the other is still dreaming about it.... That's just how good it is. (i got the OSW 20nm, but that's enough for me, the fidelity of this wheel is phenomenal!) Edit.. and it's Gamermuscle's fault! ;)
Hey Shawn. I noticed that when you were testing the wheel in iracing, you were only changing the FFB strength slider. I noticed that the other two were on zero. Is this where they stay when you have a DD wheel? I run a clubsport wheel and I have to tune the other two sliders to get realistic feedback.
Yes. With direct drive, you can set the minimum force to 0 and also the damping to 0, as the low-end torque range is so much better that you don't need the boosted low forces the same as Fanatec wheels. Damping can be set up in the SimuCUBE tool, it usually results in better FFB if set from there instead.
What are the latest recommended settings ?
You absolutely must set it to linear and disable oscilation dumping
Who is this for? In fact the typical profile of a Sim Racer is a middle aged man, living alone. This group of people have more than enough forearm and wrist strength to handle 30Nm.
Jamiedh303 I know huge guys that can't turn the wheel when it's set to 30 Nm, even less, while it's outputting all 30 Nm. I never realised just how much power 30 Nm actually was until I tried it.
Jamiedh303 Lol, I think I just got your joke, lol!!!
Only in one arm though!
@@Mohawk_Racing That's why you use a manual shifter on your right side, so your left arm gets more time on the wheel. Problem solved
This vs. Fanatec Podium wheel base... Discuss.
@Shaun Cole use these OSW Simucube settings to get rid of the ossilation problems : th-cam.com/video/iEuzjXP17oM/w-d-xo.html And use these Damper settings th-cam.com/video/VJX-RmPmIlM/w-d-xo.html
I accidentally purchased this second hand not knowing what I was getting. Now I'm selling it before even setting it up. Its not going to work with my setup and I'm brand new to sim racing. I dont think its for me.
at that price it should come with everything you need
disagree on the esports comment. They'll have podium wheels when they're available. Keeping it as close to real life will be what happens
If you only need to run these at 6% when 9% is almost too much, what's the point with these strong motored wheels? If a DD wheel delivers a 1 to 1 experience then why cant there be DD wheels much cheaper and with a motor that's 6 to 10 times Less powerful? Is it just to put little wear and tear on the motor?
(Re edit: And I'm not bringing this up as an economic issue. I just don't see the point of having the ability to run so much FFB. No race car out there would be anything similar to running even medium FFB with this wheel. I don't even see it as a solution for the 'professional' as it's not replicating the experiences they have).
Hi Wayne, It is not that there is soo much power that you cannot use it (clearly that is true in most cases), it is the fidelity the extra power provides. The speed in which the wheel can react and the minute forces that shine through because there is no hint of clipping... Shaun was saying get the 30nm motor, not because you need that much power but because it is only nominally more expensive then the 20nm (small mige motor). I would argue the opposite, get the small mige cause it is more then enough power and put less strain (in weight and nm) on your rig but in either case this is the essence of DD Wheels right now (more power then you need to let the fidelity shine through). Ask any DD wheel owner and they will tell you similar. Hope this helps = )
Unless you have production big enough to make your own electronics, including servo motor driver, the price of standard OSW build, like the one used in the video using SimuCUBE board with IONI Pro/Pro HC driver, wouldn't drop dramatically if you used cheaper and weaker motor. And there aren't many suitable models on the market to choose from in the price range we are talking about, to begin with. When using standard, 20 Nm or 30 Nm motor, its price is only about fourth of cost of total parts and materials used (electronics, PSU, case, mounts, wiring etc.). Even less, when you buy them wholesale, I've paid $150 for shipping of a single unit from China, and the motor itself was $215 ;p So let's say that you are building everything yourself and costs of labor are not to be counted here, and you buy a weaker engine for half a price of 20 Nm one, you'll save only 12.5% of overall cost, sacrificing one of two most important parts of your build, and it's going to make more that those 12.5% of negative difference for overall experience, in my opinion.
And even with custom electronics, although there are indeed some DD wheels with 6-12 Nm force with good opinions, still quite expensive though, especially when we remember, that we're paying only for a bare wheel base, without any rim or pedals, at the same time we're seeing companies like Fanatec, or FeelVR struggling to deliver affordable and reliable wheel, which comes with all the accessories needed to go racing and gives user same plug and play experience that wheels like Logitech/Thrustmaster/Fanatec do.
I could go on and on about that, because, despite exceeding the budget significantly, building my own OSW was a great experience and I learned a lot doing that :)
I think one option that most people don't seem to have explored is mounting wheels from real cars.
I know all the professional race cars have bespoke carbon fiber wheels that probably weight the same as their plastic counterparts, but especially if you were going to do some type of historical racing you'd probably be mounting a good 10lbs+ to the motor. At that point it would take a LOT more force to overcome the dead weight of the steering wheel itself.
Bud, most DD wheel owner run wheels from real race cars not real production cars... non of them even when mounted to a hub/button box weigh near 10lbs. You will see OMP, Momo and Sparco alot. Even Fanatec owners can run real race car wheels. I own a Clubsport V2.5 and have several of their universal hubs which allows me to run a variety of 50mm and 70mm bolt pattern race car wheels... My wheels (both real and other)... a 300mm OMP Trecento Uno (real), a 320mm OMP Treceno (real), a 350mm Momo (nice ebay knock off) and my old 27mm G25 rim. The weight and diameter do not heavily effect my V2.5 and would not effect in any negative way any good Direct Drive motor.
Here's a good example: www.ebay.com/itm/2002-2003-Subaru-Impreza-WRX-MOMO-Steering-Wheel-with-airbag-USDM-/153077452052#
The steering wheel off a 2003 WRX, maybe not 10lbs but it's certainly not going to be lightweight.
Don't those 100% guys use a mod that turns the setting in Iracing into a gain based on the forces exerted by the real car?
Holy shit! 3:03 that could take someone's head clean off lol
OzSimRacing haha he crapped himself
magzire haha noob.
I think most people don't quite understand what they're asking for when they say they want "real life" forces.
Racing drivers are trained to let go of the wheel in a crash because when your front wheels are being ripped off the car, the steering wheel WILL break your arms. No-one is ever going to want that in a Sim.
Bud The Cyborg I think people want real life forces in regards to cornering and road surface feeling rather than realistic crashing forces.
Maybe the 8Nm belt driven wheels are underpowered, but clearly what's available in these heavy motors is excessive.
I know, people are saying it's all about the fidelity of the movement and not maximum torque, but as Fanatec was saying in their DD coverage, their belt system is smoother. Theoretically Direct Drive is not optimal and the absolute best system is actually just a bigger belt drive. The problem there is you would need a HUGE frame to convert 20Nm through a belt drive without any wiggle.
Some links to the product in the description would be handy.....
It looks like there s kind a delay
thx for the video
👍👍👍
Absolutely pointless. No modern car gives this amount of power through the wheel. It's stupid and pointless. You do not need more than 20 NM of force
formula car does. Have you race in one of those ? the power give you faster feedback, not force.
Paul Scott some modern race cars don’t run power steering and you can race classic cars in these sims
nm? Like nanometer? That must be really tiny Sim Cube... (like really, SIM related channel and can't manage to use correct units?) (hint: "Nm" is Newton meter)
ped7g Picky about the little things I see.
29:30 LESS than a year later SC1 is dead and they only support SC2....
Really Sean? 3 hours to get it up and running? I was racing in 20 min.
Also my wheel is recognized EVERY time without issue. You have some issues unique to yours over there. This thing was as plug n play as any consumer Wheel. Simple software download and that was literally it.
First thumbs down vote for the simpit from me. But I still love you Sean! Your just off the mark on a few things in this review.
Meowter. :P
30Nm of Ridiculous !!!
I can be happy i can afford a G27 WHY THE F*$K AM I WATCHING THIS?! :(
ty for ur video but all new cars have soft wheels that u even dont feel kurbs in streets idk what ur talking u neeed much power to feel the car that making me to ask u have u drove a car at all ??? i even do drift in real life and if the power was like what ur talking i could never turn the wheel at all so no one need more than Thrustmaster of fanatec wheels !!! just ones i saw the button for safety i knew ill never took one from those i dont want to stay with out arms !!! its very dangerous btw my tip for u !!! and btw what is the point to buy dd wheel
and turn it back to 20 percent lol then stay with the old fanatec or lg or thrustmaster
ive even crashed with my cars but never have like ur wheeel shake at the start of the video its way to much !!
No natural 👎🏻
you should never, ever cross ur arms like that, even if ur just driving on a sim.
That's stupid
1500$ and it doesn't even come with an actual wheel lol.
Austin Johnson and your point is? This is for people who like spending money on their hobbies.
It has manual, as every osw, but Shawn throw it out from window after unpacking
you say that like its abad thing
It's not even that pricey for what it is.
Austin still use logitech g25 and didnt waist money. For few $ got full set and do not waist money for osw lol
''Might not work on simple games'' damn I guess that's pcars2 out
On PC it works fine. It won't work on a console.
Yes the OSW wheel feels pretty damn good Project cars 2. I would say it sits in the middle of how iracing and assetto corsa feels.
For example assetto corsa in my mind feels very analog, and iracing feels very digital and precise. Both have very good force feedback and project cars feels somewhere in between. The force feedback has growncon me.
works fine on ps4 with a 30$ gimx adapter
falchulk A reply like this kind of throws me for a loop. Then maybe you should tell me how I could explain it in lamen terms. Its not a perfect example but most people understand the difference between digital and anolog.For example old school audiofiles like the sound of records verses CDs. Or the sound from an instrument verses a digitally made audio noise. Or the difference between an old car thats driven through the linkage verses a high performance modern car driven through wire. Their both precise and it has nothing to do about conversion. So, iracing ffb feels a little dead and sterile verses assetto corsa feeling more alive. So like my original example project cars 2 sits somewhere in the middle.
I would love one day to try one of these bad boys!
Oh crap. Quick question. If I get a direct drive, Fanatec wheel /base for Ps5. Say the entry level. Is it somewhat plug and play. Plug in, go into in game settings, to change stuff, if it isn’t right on the wheel? Sensitivity, forcefeedback etc? I’m not talking top of the range direct drive, more complex complicated, with software, like in this vid. I’m talking. A standard direct drive Fanatec wheel for Ps5. I don’t have pc and am not technically intellectual, unfortunately and all these pc programs and stuff , is too much for me. I think like CSL elite for Ps5 is plug and play and I think that would be incredible for me and I know it’s belt drive and way better then my g29 but I’ve not tried belt or direct drive and I’m just so unsure what to go for . Especially as I really want Fanatec and I need wheel direct drive, wheel base and pedals for about £1500 or around $1800 and I’m just not sure if my funds can do it.
"For many years we sim racers have been using China built plastic wheels for our hobby. And then came the direct drive wave. Wheels that might cost us over a thousand dollars but built to last and offer increased performance."
Those Mige servos are made in China^^
Same with DD wheels. You dont know where a company actually gets the stuff made.
Don't forget, these setups are not for idiots, and yes that motor could easily do you some serious harm.
Make sure you have solid health insurance before you buy this widow maker.
You should have the emergency switch beside the clutch.-
Torque I was thinking a thumb button on the wheel itself lol.
Were I to mount it on the floor, I would put it by the accelerator such that I am reducing throttle as I reach for the emergency stop; that would also allow me to keep the clutch out with my left foot, which is good practice for emergency stops anyway.
I've never had to re-center my steering wheel on my OSW, make sure you use the new granity software, it's called "SimuCUBE Configuration Tool", not the MMos software and get the latest update with the recommended IONI firmware.
I am sort of thinking Shawn built this thing up himself, without the assistance of my savior Olly (Sim-plicity).. it's an amazing "wheel". Didn't know there were re-center issues.
Yeah that's odd, I've never experienced it yet, even so, it takes literally 2 seconds lol.
Fuck me I can't even get my csl elite working with AC and race room I got no chance
You just said you can never have to much yet you donr use it all nobody ever uses 30 nm maxed across everything it's just stupid and doesnt feel realistic even if the older cars hit 20 to 25nm it's a different feel it isnt content that's at peak meaning sometimes you would feel that force when your using direct drive wheels it's different then reel life its implemented differently so 30 nm on the dd wheel is ridiculous I get 20nm I totally getb20nm and then using like 75 percent and stuff like that but great video
Though using such power is of little value, having the power available (by setting the wheel to maximum and lowering the sim, only reducing the wheel if the sim cannot be set low enough) gives ample headroom to prevent clipping.
30nm is a toy for incredible hulk.
Great review! But did you really forget to configure the permanent center point? One absolutely does not need to reset center every time. Also, why did you need to configure the IONI servo drive via Granity? With a pre-built set as this, it isn't required at all. Thats already a good amount of the "not so good" points swept away...
thank you very much for clarifying those points, GREAT COMMENT!
Where is permanent center point setting?
rod272727 its is set via the "Congure Motor, Encoder and center point" wizard on the Hardware tab.
Hey...you might want to edit your app.ini for iracing:
displayLinearInNm - Nm Display of force: (parameter = 1) -
Changes the iRacing force slider to display the 100% point in Nm
steeringDampingFactor - Strength of Dampening Signal: (parameter = 0.0500000) -
Sets the strength of the dampening applied to the signal when the iRacing dampener is used 1=100%
steeringDampingMaxPercent - Dampening Percentage: (parameter = 0.0000000) -
Sets the percentage of dampening added to the FFB signal. This is set primarily through the dampening slider and is over written if the slider is moved.
steeringDampingParkedMaxPercent - Dampening Percentage “Parked”: (parameter = 0.0000000) -
Sets the percentage of software dampening added to the FFB signal when the car is in parked mode and the Dampen Oscillations checkbox is enabled.
steeringFFBSmooth - Percentage of Inverse Signal Smoothing: (parameter = 1.0000000) -
Sets the percentage of RAW feedback signal passing through the filer 1=100% Raw signal lower numbers signify more signal averaging or smoothing.
steeringForceParkedPct - Parked Force Reduction: (parameter = 0.500000) -
Sets how much reduction in sim delivered force is applied when in parked mode and the Dampen Oscillations checkbox is enabled. 0.5 = 50% reduction. If you want to turn off feedback in the pits completely set to 0.
members.iracing.com/jforum/posts/list/3573261.page
25:30 - super!
Sean....u mention it took you hours to fine tune the settings, but you didn’t share your settings? Lol.....would really appreciate if u did.
>30nm
>ffb 12%
Legit wasting money
This has to be Chuckies' Twin brother from "Sons Of Anarchy" & "Mayans MC" just give him the plastic fingers and you couldnt tell them apart..... Great Vid though Very informative Big thumbs up !!!!
Looks like a nice wheel but it is way too much wheel for me especially with FFB. The bottom line conclusions were spot on. I admittedly run a much less expensive wheel and even on that for most games I have FFB set somewhere between 30 and 45%. To top it off it would greatly exceed my wife allotted budget, hehe.
18：00 is a great point, same goes to load cell pedals and VR......if you are spoiled by a set of very high quality hardware that is tailored to your very own taste, you have a very hard time driving normal sim racing rigs again, especially in a public competition environment where you don't have a lot of practice time.
Superb review. , . Thank you. I will start with fanatec v2.5 clubsport base first and save money as this thing looks too heavy for a playseat... that said if the controller box could be replaced by a low cost alternative that would bring this wheels price down .. esp as I can see this motor is easily sourced off Alibaba. grrr its that control box.... whats in it?
Nice review getting the SMF1 wheel can you do a review of the new RSEAT S1 please thanks Shaun
Sorry, who is the wheel for? I'm looking for a dd wheel but unsure what to get 🤔
great review. 30nm seems like massive overkill if already plenty strong at 6%. the new simucube 2 sport looks great. would love to see a review.
A shootout between a "small MiGE" (20Nm) OSW with the Biss-C encoder and a Simucube 2 Sport (18Nm) would be great.
Thanks Thomas, much better info and will pre-order the DD1.
Great review. You make it easy to understand. Plus one SUB..
Who wants to Rob a Bank with me?
Interesting, I’ll stick with my CS V2 for now. Maybe Fanatec’s next base will be the more elegant user friendly solution I’m looking for. This setup is more work, power, weight, and bulk than I want to put up with. Any chance of a review of the current AccuForce?
Same, I don't even run it on full power
Shaun has mentioned that an Accuforce review will be coming.
First!!...sorry, its a habit😎
Tom Jones, you legend you ; )
LMAO... Expected
The motor does not need to be so powerful or massive.