How to Remove Sheetrock with Less Mess
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 10 ก.ย. 2024
- Learn how to remove sheetrock with less mess and minimize collateral damage with some great pro tips and a few 'surgical' tools. Watch Master Carpenter Matt Jackson 'surgically' remove full sheets of old sheetrock from a wall during a Master Bath Suite remodel project without creating billowing clouds of dust or buckets of crumbs. BTW This is by far THE BEST way to remove sheetrock that is fastened to metal studs with screws! A sharp long-handled knife, a special powerful magnet, a bit of 'magnetic dirt' and a sharp tip in a fast cordless drill allow professional extraction of drywall... a much more professional approach than beating holes into the wall and tearing the sheetrock off in fist-sized pieces! Use what you learn here at Next Level Carpentry to work efficiently and effectively for better results on your DIY projects.
Here's a list of the tools highlighted in this video as featured on the Next Level Carpentry Amazon Influencer's page where they're the same low online cost to you but Jeff Bezos pays an infinitesimally small iota of his net worth in ad fees that help support the channel so I really appreciate it!:
CRL 13" long handled knife:
www.amazon.com...
Great Lenox Quick Change/Retractable Utility Knife for Edward J 😁😉:
www.amazon.com...
Wicked Bad Long Knife Blades:
www.amazon.com...
Rack-a-Tiers Studball Magnet: www.amazon.com...
Slide Hammer Nail Puller:
www.amazon.com...
My favorite Makita 18V L-ion Driver/Drill kit... super fast for removing drywall screws:
www.amazon.com...
Hive Tool 'Surgical' Prybar:
www.amazon.com...
My favorite jobsite utility knife:
www.amazon.com...
Oh, and the 'Click Readers' glasses I (need to) wear:
www.amazon.com...
This is the entire Influencer's Page list of stuff I use every day on the job and in the shop:
www.amazon.com...
Amazon pays a small 'ad fee' for purchases made through these links which help support efforts at Next Level Carpentry and are greatly appreciated!
![[UNCUT] The Loyal Pin ปิ่นภักดิ์ EP.6 (2/4)](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/GgeGQOP10RQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Is that sheet rock or dry wall...
Actually it's a board made of several plies of fiberboard, paper, or felt bonded to a hardened gypsum plaster core and used especially as wallboard... have fun being 'that guy' who insists on using correct terminology on a jobsite and see where it gets you.
Well actually I'm "that guy"from Australia and I am trying to work out the differences in terminology between you guys and us.@@NextLevelCarpentry
Technically Sheetrock is a brand name that became synonymous with dry wall board. That's 'dry wall' as opposed to actual plastering that was applied wet to a wall. I tend to call it sheetrock but drywall, wallboard, board, rock, etc are common terms for it. In general 'posers' tend to be the only ones to pick this nit so you might want to keep that in mind. Regardless, here's a Next Level approach to patching the stuff, regardless of what you call it:
th-cam.com/video/5jiWGEF-Vh0/w-d-xo.html
I have been doing drywall for close to thirty years and have seen many ways of removing drywall on home renovation shows and have been appalled at the way they do it. You sir have shown how it is suppose to be done. Professionally. Much less dust and easier to remove from the site. Job well done.The way it should be done.
the comment you made about retracting the blade EVERY TIME you move, took 10 seconds to say and has been seared into my brain for a lifetime. I will never ever forget to do that again, it was that easy , thank you.
Mannnn…..that’s a very clean bathroom demo. Your lungs & arms, legs and waist will thank you. Excellent tutorial video!
That took less time than it normally does to clear up the mess! Excellent tutorial.
Thanks for noticing and pointing that out Harvey... if you read other comments you'll see some folks miss the whole point. Hope this helps you out somewhere along the way! Best, Matt
@@NextLevelCarpentry I wouldn't pay too much attention to those comments. Everyone is an expert at our job.
I based my comment on how many trips you took to take the rubbish too your truck.
No bags of broken dry wall to bag up, virtually no dust, very little sweeping up to do.
As for the time it takes to remove the screws with your method, it is really only the time it takes to locate them because if you just ripped the board off, you would still have to remove the screws at some point.
I have subbed because of this tip alone.
@@harveysmith100 Thanks for subscribing... welcome to the Next Level Carpentry Channel. Hope you find more useful stuff in videos here... Best, Matt
Fantastic! Thank you! Just wish I'd seen you teaching this three years ago. Idiots put pvc caps on unused tub output inside my shower wall. Had to replace bedroom wall and rebuild entire shower. You eliminate requirement for massive plastic dust shields form wall to wall, floor to ceiling and carpet cleaning bills later also. Definitely wish I'd seen before making a massive drywall mess with a hammer smash and rip. Retired Army here, so seeing a Master Craftsman teaching these things is more appreciated than you may know!! Thank you again!!
You're welcome Rick... and I can relate to difficulties created by neglect (or ignorance) of others. Sadly it's a large part of the work I end up doing in remodeling for people. Hope you're able to save yourself some grief on future projects with tips shown in this video... Best, Matt
This was a good video on saving the dust everywhere in every room of the house, THANKS for sharing with us.
A little more time but less mess and dust(good for every ones health) is the winner for me! Also it gives the customer a good impression! You look like a carpenter not a butcher!
Matt, that dry wall was so well removed and intact I figured you were going to re-use it! Great tips, thanks. Cheers, David.
Good one, David... don't tell that to my client, they might form unrealistic expectations 😁😎
Good to see a comment from you again...
Best, Matt
@Benjamin Brant Who reuses sheetrock?
@@jmackinjersey1 I have totally reused sheetrock on a few jobs. There was no reason not to and it not only saved me money but also time running back to the store.
I'm thinking the same thing. I'm pulling sheetrock out of my garage so I can put in blocking and electrical. It's taped but not finished so it seems like a waste to tear it up and throw it out if I can put it right back on.
This is a very well done tutorial. I enjoy your attention to detail and safety when explaining each step in the proicess. Too many videos assume a level of proficiency that many of us DIY folks do not yet have. Thanks!
Love your method! I work in nice homes and managing dust is far more important then raw speed...like another commenter stated, the screws must come out anyway on some projects. I will give this a try on my next demo. Thanks
Good to know we have the same customer priorities Craig... I think you'll like it as much as your clients. Let me know what you think after trying some or all of the tools and tips... since you're already doing work in nice homes I wouldn't be surprised to learn you're already doing some of this. Best, Matt
I really appreciate your videos. I can honestly say that almost everything I've learned in 20 years of carpentry. I did something the wrong way or hard way for years before I thought there has to be a better way. I love this method an in my experience most customers appreciate a tradesman considering they have a life or family. Anyways I have learned a lot by realizing there has to be a better way. I just wish you tube had been around a lot longer. Cause most tradesmen I've been around are either to arrogant or insecure to ever God forbid try an learn. An I wish I could get guys I work around to watch your videos an others on TH-cam who obviously take pride in what they do. Cause shamefully that seems rare in the trades anymore. Thanks an good luck an God bless
Thanks Josh... your comment is spot-on IMHO. Sadly, resistance to change has always been an unfortunate human trait. Breaking out of that mindset is a hurdle few people seem to clear, now or ever. Congratulations for making the transition... it will serve you well in life as it has me. Best, Matt
I had to laugh at you about "the grunt".
When I stopped working for a big company and started doing my own bids, I realized I was the journeyman as well as the apprentice...
When I started working for myself I also found that this boss was also a jerk.
Worst thing is when you don't like the guy you work for there's nobody to complain to about it either is there?! 😂😎
Best, Matt
What was the name of the magnet and where can I purchase one?
Lol
Finally, someone removing sheet rock without using sledge hammer in front of a TV camera
Somewhat of a lone voice crying in the wilderness, right Paul? I shouldn't be so surprised by some of the negative comments others have made on this video with the widespread opinion that a sledge hammer is the best way to get this done. Whattya gonna do? Shrug, I guess... Best, Matt
The studball magnet trick to pull out the screws worked PERFECTLY for me! Thanks!
Glad to hear it but it doesn't surprise me. It's cool you discovered this trick cuz I can tell you I'm currently using it quite a bit on an ongoing remodel project I'm working on too...
I like it - the time I spend cleaning up the old claw hammer destructor method is too costly, I’m switching to this method - thank you
Sometimes the lazy man works harder, right John? Sounds like we think alike in that we'd rather spend time up front working sensibly than afterwards cleaning up messes... Best, Matt
School is in I’m a home owner I just found out that they installed a ceiling fan in the light box because the screws fit . So I got school on a fan box and installing from the attic . This Sheetrock video is so precise on removal and then a Tri fold for shipping to the dump our dry wall project budgets just got cut thank you !
Great video Matt. I used your technique but altered it slightly. I marked the studs first and then I used two different sizes of rare earth magnets (3/4” & 3/8”). The bigger magnet was quicker locating the general area of the drywall screws and nails and then the smaller magnet helped me hone in on the exact location of the screws/nails. Thanks for posting the video and passing along this technique.
You sir just saved me so much time and cleanup.
I already located the screws because they popped due to moisture but your methods and techniques are priceless! I didn’t think about folding the drywall like that either.
Thank you for teaching us do-it-yourselfers how to properly do it!
Fantastic tip. I think if most people would consider the clean up time they would see how efficient this could be. I recently demo'd a 5/8 ceiling for a kitchen remodel. This would have made a huge difference.
Right you are Chad... most of the negative comments about this method consider only the initial tear-off part and so fail to see the sensibility of this method for situations like you mention. A word of caution (probably not necessary for you) but make sure you have something in place to deal with ceiling sheets letting loose as you start removing screws because there will be one screw that, when removed, triggers release of a whole sheet once the tipping point between 'enough screws to hold it up' and 'not enough screws to hold it up' is reached. Don't ask how I know this, OK?! 😲😬😁😎 Best, Matt
As a firefighter I take alot of drywall. I am way fast doing it... but my god!!! I am so happy I saw this video. With a basement remodel to update a theater room in my house there so many tips there to make is a much cleaner job. I only need to get behind the walls to insulate, air seal and rub a crap ton of AV cables, power and control cables, so much that its easier and cheaper to just pull section of dryway. This was spot on for that project.
Who knew I did not need a Haligan, pike and axe to take out drywall. Great stuff!!!
Great comment, Chris! I'm glad this 'surgical' method will help with your theater room update. I'll warn you ahead of time though: it's nowhere NEAR as fast or as much fun as the "Haligan, pike and axe" method you get to use at work but will be considerably less work to clean up! 😁😎👍 Best, Matt
Next Level Carpentry ha, yup, tearing apart is my thing... clean up not so much!!! Keep the great content coming!!!
Tearing apart is your job, putting things back together is job security for me 😂😂
More stuff on the way as a busy summer schedule allows...
If you are careful about taking the sheet out, you can do the work behind it and put the same sheet back up on the wall. Just screw in a slightly different spot and just some mud to fill the old hole when you are filling the new hole. I remodeled my bedroom and put in new insulation and added some electrical and network wire, put same sheet-rock back up after.
I remove drywall in full sheets this way on a regular basis. It just so much easier and far less mess, which is vey important to my clients.
Glad to hear it Tina... our reputations and personal pride rely totally on what's important to our clients, right? It's good to know there's others 'out there' who appreciate the difference of a thoughtful approach to potentially messy work. I just have to shrug every time there's a comment from someone who says 'I'd have the whole thing torn out and be eating lunch before this guy even gets the first sheet off the wall'... makes me wonder who they're working for. Best, Matt
This method is much cleaner but it's a lot slower. I would of had that down in quarter of the time. Just use a shop vac to clean up the crumbs.
@@steve12121 yeah- zip walls, ram board, shop vac. I’d be done in ten minutes.
@@steve12121 do you really think that the crumbs are the problem?! Guess you've never worked on a high-end home where that sort of carelessness with migrating dust will wind you up in court.
@@shinnick22 I'm sure you would... but then again you'll never earn the kind of money I earn by working smarter instead of harder...
I am getting to remove sheetrock from my Service porch and I am very pleased to have found this video. I plan on ordering the tools suggested and I currently have them on my Wish List. Probably will start the job the 2nd week in April. You have made a job less overwhelming for me. Thank you.
I think you've made a good plan Becky... every tear-out project is a little different but I at least with these tips and tools at hand your sheetrock removal project should be less of a mess. 😀😎 Work safely with the long blades and good luck! Best, Matt
@@NextLevelCarpentry Thank you.
Gotta say from experience that I wish I had done it your way. It's fun to get a bunch of buddies and start punching holes in walls but it was highly inefficient, messy, dusty and more labor intensive. The more you know I guess, lol. Thanks for making all your videos
This was the perfect video to watch before I removed the drywall from the ceiling of an old building. You are the Master Carpenter. I am totally impressed! Thank you so much for sharing your power skills and tips. I can see a few new tools to add to my collection.
No matter how simple or how intricate your videos are, there is always something to be learned. Thanks Next Level Carpentry!
You're quite welcome IT Kills! Best, Matt
After inspecting a few condos my parents own I realized the bathrooms would all need to be remodeled. Well, “repaired” is a better term. The bathroom walls are all infested with mold & of course a lot of damage. Our tenants are still living there & they have a lot of toddlers & infant children as one of the ladies has a daycare. Therefore, it’s very important to keep the place as clean/dust free as possible to prevent the little ones from getting sick. I looked up a video on how to keep things clean when removing sheet rock and found exactly what I needed.
Thank you for making this video! Seriously, you’re making life easier for a LOT of people regardless of their level of experience.
Everyone is an expert at destroying things in a hurried manner but when it comes to situations like the one I’m in it sure is nice to have somebody show you how to do your job professionally.
I'm SO glad to know you found this video to make an onerous task a bit less miserable Falling Shadow! I don't envy you the task of 'repairing' old, moldy bathrooms having done enough of that myself over the years but I'm sure the reward is worth the effort for you. Those who 'thumbs down' this video and comment about how much faster they can do this sort of work are the last ones you want around when working in the real-world conditions you are, right? Wear a mask and wish you the best in the work! Best, Matt
Leave the magnet on the wall and tap it with the back of the hammer. It leaves a small imprint on the drywall and sticks to the handle of the hammer. Much faster in my limited experience.
How would that be faster, you’re adding an extra step. This way you go straight from magnet to drill. The 42 people that liked your comment don’t know what the hell they’re doing.
Hey - I'm talking about the hammer not drill. At 5:36 he drops the magnet before pulling the nail with the sliding hammer. I personally found my technique easier than pulling the magnet off by hand and eyeballing where it was.
If you have a better way I'm all ears. We're 43 people trying to learn new skills, not 43 people who "don't know what the hell we're doing". At the end of the day my drywall project was a success thanks to helpful and positive contributors in the DIY community.
@@TemuJesus Think this old timer gives a crap about some guy who did sheetrock one time, giving advice?
The guy has been a contractor his whole life, so it's irritating when some guy like you, and there are many, make comments about "well actually this is faster.."
Good for you that you saved yourself 5 minutes on your little experiment, this guy makes a living doing it. Just give him credit for the video and move on.
@@TheeRogerWayne but is it 5 min faster?
@@malinoisnation9392 maybe not at all, who knows. Doesnt even matter. I bought this stud ball because of watching this video and its amazing. I took every screw out, cut sections, and it fell into big beautiul pieces with minimal dust. It was fast.
Regardless of how you tinker around with it, it still works great.
Having demoed plenty of Sheetrock in my life, I’d say your “surgical” method, though a little more time-consuming, is superior. Less damage to existing, better control, and a much cleaner work area. Thanks for the tip!
Rich, you're welcome for the tip, thanks for the comment. I haven't and don't always use this but ALWAYS use this approach when working in finished spaces for demanding and discerning clients. Hope you're able to put some of this to use to simplify your life? Best, Matt
This is great as I tackle our renovation! A camera-focusing tip that the makeup TH-camrs know: When you hold something small up to the camera (like that neato magnetic ball), hold your other hand flat up behind it as a backdrop. This gives the autofocus lens something bigger to quickly focus onto. Watch a couple of those videos for the technique, especially the unnarrated ones - it's so quick and effective, you can read the type on the mascara or whatever, which saves them editing time. Looking forward to learning more, both as a DIYer and an architect!
Thanks for the focusing tip Sarah... I'll try to remember that for future frustrating shots. Even more frustrating is shooting video like this when I don't even realize the focus is off (I don't have a cameraman to monitor the shot/action) until I'm home at the computer editing. THEN what to do?! 😯😳😎 Best, Matt
Hands down. One of the best videos ive seen on youtube. Well done
what you add in time doing the cutting, locating and drilling you make up not having to pick up, sweep and carry all the rest of the stuff afterwards, and the dust and sweeping, Gawd so much dust you just keep sweeping and it keeps coming back! Thanks for this lesson!
EggZACTly Techno Tard! Thanks for sayin'! Best, Matt
I think your method is the best way to work . If you tear everything to pieces you breath all the dust or have to have a mask get full of drywall dust. Then take off all the screws or nails. I'll try it next time i have a job like this . I subscribed right away. Great job.
Thanks for the sub Lencho... I appreciate it! I think you'll appreciate this 'surgical' method even more when you get a chance to apply it... Best, Matt
So good to see this video and listen to the pros who have commented here in clear rejection of all the tv shows that start with swinging a sledgehammer. It's clear, even to most of us non-professionals, that so much of the demo work on tv shows is done for dramatic affect. My favorite is the show where the bozo husband, you know the one where the wife is the queen of shiplap and sliding barn doors inside a house, loves to run through wall board or kick it down with his feet as his go-to method for demolition. When these come on I just envision all the job site safety managers rolling there eyes along with the rest of the sane audience.
So true.
This gave me an idea that I could take down all the nasty 40 year old sheet rock without creating a large mushroom cloud. Thanks for taking the time to post this. Although it takes longer because I am a one man operation I appreciate the neatness, also clean up time is less because of it and even that creates large dust storms.
I think you'll find that it actually takes less time overall John... hope your project goes well! Best, Matt
That was really a clean removal of old Sheetrock. Even if one did a sledge hammer removal, there are still most of the drywall screws to still remove and tons of dust and crumbs. Thanks for a great tip on a “ surgical removal” of drywall. Likely it does not take much longer when one factors in clean up etc with the destruction method.
Michael O’Brien
Alabama, USA
You know it, pathdoc... I'll bet some of the derogatory comments on this video are as bewildering to you as they are to me. It occurs to me that 'surgical' removal may be more meaningful to you than most, Doc! 😃 Best, Matt
Thank you for the great advice! I am 25, and I am currently demoing a doctor's office and have been running my saw up the sides of the studs making 16" pieces to remove. Not going to lie I was skeptical when I seen the magnet then seen the beauty of the removal, needless to say I will be trying this method in the near future! Thanks again!
Dust management doing tear-out in professional spaces and finished homes is always a challenge and this method really helps minimize the amount of dust (compared to cutting with a sawzall!) generated in the process. I think you'll find it's actually faster and easier in the long run meaning more profit from the job too.
Best,
Matt
This is a good way to go and if you want you can re-hang that drywall and skim coat and texture it its one less trip to the store and less hauling waste
In a perfect world that would be ideal... in old remodeling work it's just dreamin' 😏😌😎
Old drywall most of is hot. Has. Asbestos. Got to go
Thank you for once again expediting my project. I'm currently dealing with the less pleasant aspects of acquiring a beautiful Subzero fridge/ freezer (model 650/f; freezer and reffer compressors both located atop the unit, with all future service able to be performed without moving the 481 lb tank!)
My stud finder died years ago and I have used the magnet trick and a level ever since. Never thought of it for demo work, but will keep it in mind.
Jason, it's interesting to know you've found how much better a magnet is for 'stud finding' than just about any gadget out there too. Works great for all sorts of demo work and well worth keeping in mind... did you check out the slide hammer video link? The magnet proves quite useful for removing a door frame too...
Best, Matt
Mouth Drop!!!!!!! It takes a while to locate and remove the screws but the amount of clean up time (none) and dust generated (none) and damaged done to stuff that's behind the drywall (none) is amazing!!!!! Thank you for the tip!!!!!!
Thanks! FYI With a little practice the screw location part gets considerably faster too making the whole process surprisingly efficient... Best, Matt
This video is great! Recently been helping to do some renovations and removed about 16 full sheets of board. This made the whole process so much cleaner and easier too!
Glad to hear it Edward... and good to know you 'get it' unlike some who comment insisting that this method is an inefficient waste of time! 😁😎 Best, Matt
Fixing to do a major tear out tomorrow and going to use your method. Excellent way to do it and nice thing you have to remove the nails and screws anyway. I'm retiring my hammer. Thank you sir!
Thanks, I was feeling like I was alone in doing this. The fan folding is great! Such a simple idea yet so wonderful. As far as time goes, don't forget to include site prep, site cleanup, truck loading and unloading, your health not breathing in the dust. This is much faster. I have also noted that when I get covered in drywall dust I'm not as effecant or energetic.
Matt , it is great to see you use the common sense approach to common problems. for a sheet rock screw detector I purchase a small bag of small balloons at a dollar store , slip a dime sized neodymium magnet inside and tie a loop of string around the balloon and a loop in the other end of the string to grasp. I have used this method for many years , started out using ceramic magnets. I can see where this stud ball would be more durable.
Clever... I like it! A 'poor man's Studball' for sure... Best, Matt
Hi Matt, love your channel. When I was young and there were no drywall screws (only blued nails), we would remove drywall using a 12" long 3/4" pipe nipple with a cap. The threaded end exposed was ground to a sort of circular chisel point . We had a short bar magnet we'd wipe across the board. When we found a nail, we'd place the pipe over it and whack it with a framing hammer. This appeared to cut a plug out of the drywall but mainly crushed it so there was some dust. The board then pulled away easily leaving all those nails with crumbs sticking out of the studs, which could easily be removed with a claw hammer. (what's a 'catspaw'?) Good old days. I like your fan-folding. I've been but many times by those Stanley utility knives with the quick blade change. Dangerous when the blade just pulls out. Thanks for sharing.
"blued nails"... WOW! Haven't thought or heard of those in like, forEVER! Thanks for sharing that comment Hearthman! The knife that scares me is my Stanley 199 that use when hanging rock... to retraction at all so ya' really gotta pay attention, right?! Best, Matt
Always willing to learn if someone has something to teach. The day you stop learning is the day they throw dirt over you. Thanks Matt. I never got into the trades but always wished I did. I'm now just a diyer thanks to TH-cam.
Excellent way to remove drywall especially if there is a tiled wall on the other side.
Yeah, that too Steve, thanks for adding this! Best, Matt
Well done - if you are not demoing the entire house - and/or reusing existing framing surgical is the way to go, and really does not take more time when you consider clean up.
Absolutely right J Garbo... thanks for adding a supportive comment! Best, Matt
Thanks Matt, what neat tips you have. I bet the people you are doing that job for are very happy that you are doing the job....No big Sheetrock dust flying everywhere. You are a very skilled and professional carpenter and I’m sure many other great things too. Your tips and ideas are wonderful to know. I won’t be taking any Sheetrock down anytime soon but I can guarantee that I will retain these tips and one day, somewhere I will be able to tell someone and they will be very happy I saw this. Thanks Matt I really appreciate all the hard work you do and for sharing these tips with us on a regular basis. Many Blessings my friend.
Your comments make me smile out loud, Becky, and are truly a blessing in their own right... thank you... you're most welcome! BTW you have a growing reputation as such a supportive viewer/subscriber and it's spreading far and wide... a true testament of character that is appreciated by more people than you know.
Hope you're enjoying life these days... sorry I haven't stopped by your Texas Wood Shop in awhile but please feel free to ask if there's something you think I can help you with, OK?
Best, Matt
Next Level Carpentry Thanks so much Matt. Your words are nice to hear too! I mean what I say too about you. I have been busy this early start of summer taking orders and making ADIRONDAK CHAIRS and CHAISE LOUNGE CHAIRS. I haven't put a video out but I have one in the making. Thanks for offering your help too. That means everything to me. Take care my friend.
You GO, Girl! Good on you for building chairs to fill orders... an exercise like that has so many rewards, both direct and indirect, that will build your woodworking skillset. I'm going to subscribe to BTWS so I can check out the video when you get it done! I'm doing a sawhorse build video that sounds like what you're up against: too busy working to invest time in video building, right? Far better to wear out than to rust you, right?
Best, Matt
Truly one of the Most Intelligent and informative videos ever!! There is No Substitute For Brains and Smarts!!!!!
Thanks TrappedbyFire... really appreciate your viewpoint, especially in light of other comments by those who totally miss the point. Hope you find other Next Level Carpentry videos informative too! Best, Matt
Matt, Another straightforward, well thought out demo, thanks for keeping it simple!
You're welcome Dan... I'm kinda stuck doing 'straightforward' because simple videos are tough enough to produce leaving me few options to complicate 'em! 😌😂😎 Thanks for your supportive comment here... Best, Matt
this is very good way to demo gypsum wallboard. especially in dwellings that are sensitive to dust and removing debris.
I'm doing it this way next time. Not only do you minimize dust but the fear of hitting electrical or a water pipe goes way down. Also a thought came to mind "this seems to take longer than ripping it out" then another thought came to mind "yeah but you still have to remove all the nails and screws, sweep, clean up all the crumbs, haul out all the buckets, yada, yada ,yada" So in the end I would definitely save time and energy. Thanks for a great video, new subscriber. :)
Michael Stene thanks for watching and commenting Michael. I'm sure you realize that this is not the only way to remove sheetrock but it can be extremely efficient helpful and useful in many applications so I hope you find it a help when you put it to use. Best, Matt
Ah! But I counter you with this. You have to clean up at the end of the day anyways and the job site is already prepped with poly walls to stop dust to spreading into other rooms. Sledgehammers are overkill yes but sometimes you gotta crack a few eggs to make an omelette.
Right you are peter... and remodeling work is all about 'cracking eggs', isn't it? I try to be compassionate for my clients when I'm tearing their house apart while omlette-making because the whole process can be pretty stressful as it is. Yes, I ALWAYS sweep AND VACUUM the areas I'm working in at the end of every day... it just makes more sense (to me) to find a balance between speed and mess. I know clients always appreciate a more controlled tear-out process and word of mouth recommendation from pleased clients is my ONLY form of marketing. I seriously doubt many clients are going to say "you should hire THIS guy... he can tear out sheetrock in no time! Makes an awful mess in the process but hey: he's really fast and cleans up at the end of the day" They DO say things like "Matt's jobsites are so clean you hardly know he's been there". Best, Matt
Yep, I hear you Peter and there is always going to be clean up. :) I'm thinking of more of my own remodels as opposed to client work. I like the idea of not having too much dust flying around and in my face. However I get there is going to be a mess. It's just cool to see there is another way to remove some drywall especially if you're in an area that demands as little dust as possible, where one would need to use hepa filters, constant vacuuming of any work being done etc. Thanks for the reply and have a great day. :) Kind Regards.
So true Michael... thanks for adding your comment here... Best, Matt
Pretty cool tip. I know my wife would appreciate less dust and my helper buddy, he just loves the demo part and does not like cleaning up. I like the nail remover tool. In my old house all the wallboard was installed with nails. Your method definitely a saver when it comes to dust, hauling off the pieces and clean up. Wish I would have seen this a couple weeks ago.
As a diy renovation "expert" this is a great idea, even better when your family can't move while the renovation.
"When your family can't move during the renovation"... like ALWAYS, right?! Great comment jehisson! Best, Matt
Good video. Ignore all the YT "experts" who feel the need to criticise your methods. As a self-employed carpenter with only 2 employees we do A LOT of remodeling, ranging in size from small bathrooms to sometimes whole houses. One thing the homeowner appreciates is if you make an effort to minimize the havoc of demolition. It's often very nerve wracking for the homeowner to see their house being torn apart. I try to make this phase of the project as cost effective yet clean as possible given the situation. Im going to order one of those oversized utility knives, I never knew they existed tbh! Now if you can make a vid on how to tear out plaster and lath this cleanly I'll track you down and buy you a beer!
Great Channel Name, Who's John Galt, from your comment I'd guess you embody much of what Ayn Rand's greatest work represents. Thanks so much for the encouragement to ignore YT 'experts'... it comes at a time when I've been bombarded by some unbelievable whack-jobs and words from someone with your perspective and reasoning is quite reassuring! I'll bet your perspective, approach and consideration for your clients are a huge part of your success and I applaud you for it. Especially with the ridiculous 'HGTV 7-day complete house rebuild/makeover' world we find ourselves in these days. Keep up your high standards and customer consideration... it will take you as far as you want to go! Best, Matt
The only good way I've ever seen of tearing out lath and plaster is to get someone else to do it... but that never works out, does it? A guy can dream though, right? 😁😎
Matt...I have a little jar of Filings. Just flick them on the Wall and Presto! All the Drywall Fasteners are Visable! Years ago...I had a Stud Finder that was a Clear Plastic Strip about Six Inches Long with a Column of Small Magnets Pointed on the Bottom and Pivoted on Top...made it Super Quick to find Drywall Screws and Nails. For Cutting the Seams of the Sheetrock I use one of those Vibrating Saws with the Offset Blades...Fast!
As always Matt...Great Video!
The Folding Drywall sure makes Hauling a Snap...No Pun Intended... LoL
Interesting about the jar of filings... do they 'stick' to nails without first passing a magnet over them? That would be sweet! Maybe a terry cloth towel with filings in it could be rubbed over the wall to make all fasteners visible? THAT would make this twice as fast, easily! I try to avoid the multi-tool and/or sawzall if possible because of the dust they generate. Sometimes it's the only option but my first choice is a knife. With the long-handled knife I can slice all the way through 5/8 rock quickly and cleanly enough to make it a viable method for cutting holes or removing partial sheets. The only thing better than fan-folding the rock would be to have someone other than me to haul the stuff, right? Dream on! Best, Matt
@@NextLevelCarpentry i use chopsaw dust... the friction from cutting metal magnetizes the ferrous dust... grab a hand full and dust the wall, the screws or nails will appear as small black circles
That's fantastic Shane ofEarth! I can sure get some of THAT stuff easy enough. I'm going to give this a try (when I get around to it) and may do a follow up video showing this. The way my memory works there's a fair chance I won't remember your helpful comment accurately enough to include your 'name' so if you happen to see the video and want to, remind me I'll add credit to you in the Video Description, OK? In the meantime, thanks from me and other subscribers who can benefit from your tip! Best, Matt
Thank you for this. Unfortunately, the drywall I was removing was nailed not screwed, but I was able to use a modified version of your technique.
I located the nails with the magnet as you showed, then I used a small 1" hole saw (with the drill bit removed) to cut a circle around each nail.
Not quite as neat as your method, but easier than trying to dig them out, because they were quite deep, with a thick layer of mud over the top.
Thanks for the heads up on the demolition tools, will be using this technique on my next reno project. Thanks for sharing this one. from Elliot Lake Ontario Canada.
You bet, Tinkermouse! The tools are great and usually work better and faster than shown in the video...once you get the hang of it it's the only way to go for most reno work. I do hope that, unlike me, you have a 'grunt guy' to haul out the pieces though! 😁😎👍
Good video! Just wanted to let you know that I knew a college student laborer who sadly lost an eye due to drywall knife accidentally pulled toward him instead of away from. You are wise to use safety glasses with power tools but methinks it even wiser to do same using knives. BTW thrlaborer was working for his dad and I'll never forget the day dad came into our shop literally weeping over the fact that his son was injured like that😢 Keep up the good work...and thanks!👍
I can't imagine going through the scenario you describe, Russ: what a tragedy! Whether a newbie or an old hand there's so many ways to get injured you just really got to pay attention. I fear for a new generation of carpenter's who, it might seem, get careless since the whole concept of CTRL/Z is ubiquitous... except when working on real stuff with real tools. I appreciate your comment and subscription... Best, Matt
How about using cats paw and hammer
Hey Jonathan, while a cat's paw and hammer are often necessary because many rockers tack sheets up with a few nails before driving all the screws I much prefer to use the slide hammer nail puller for it's own 'surgical' abilities but there's plenty of other of options if, for instance, the slide hammer is back at the shop and there's nails to pull 😎 Best, Matt
You are a pro! I wish you were in Southern California. I’ve been measuring my kids’ height for the last 10 years in sharpie on our garage wall. We’re moving this month, and I want to take that patch of drywall with me to our new house because it’s priceless to me... The contractor said nope, it wouldn’t work due to the screws. I just bought the magnetic finder from your link.... I’m not giving up the crazy idea quite yet. ☺️
Your idea of preserving those memories is priceless, not crazy! This method, used carefully, is your best chance at preservation so I'll make a couple suggestions: try to determine where the joints in the drywall are before you start. With any luck you'll not be dealing with more than one horizontal seam but, worst case scenario, your height progression record will bridge a corner seam. It's a bit more tricky to locate the screws when they're buried by mud AND tape so take your time if you're dealing with seams. Also, if you ARE dealing with seams I'd recommend getting a piece of plywood or osb the size of the piece you're cutting out to use to support the piece in transport because, when removing/removed, seams will weaken the piece with a tendency to fold along them spoiling your record and defeating your nostalgic effort. Good luck! Best, Matt
I need that magnetic ball. Works better than a stud finder!!
You can snag one at Amazon through the Next Level Carpentry Influencer's page if you can't find one locally. Best, Matt
Much more efficient and not having the clean up does save time... Very good video Thank you...
Thanks Sarg! You're certainly welcome! Best, Matt
It is fun to break things. The gas company man sure enjoyed busting my rusty, leaking gas line. Oh well, I had to replace that pipe anyways. Since this is kind of not useful since my sheetrock is nailed in, I love that nail puller you have there instead. I never heard of this but that will certainly be a great addition to my tool box.
I do this style of removal whenever I can. You save so much time in demo clean-up alone. People make more work for themselves too often.
Thanks for your comment Mike... and good to 'meet' someone else with first hand knowledge of the advantage of this method for rock removal. Gotta make it easy on yourself 'cuz no one else is gonna do it for you, right? Best, Matt
The last time I took down a wall in my home I used my saws-all - thereby creating rubble and dust plumes to rival the bombing of Hiroshima & Nagasaki! It goes without saying that my wife will be very happy that I took the time to learn some "next level" surgery techniques as I'm about to start another wall demolition. Having learned this technique from you will not only save me time and aggravation - it might also save my marriage :) Now to purchase a Crescent 56 before I begin. Thanks Matt!
You're on it, Cameron! With visions of marital bliss and a little practice you'll be surgically removing rock with the best of 'em in NO time! 😁😁😎 I cringe every time I see someone on TH-cam, TV or in real life using the 'nuclear option' when there truly is a better way! Best, Matt
Hey John, do you have an explanation why all the homes, motels and appartments that are constructed every year without sheetrock glued on don't crumble into rubble but survive without trouble for decades? Your conclusion that this house is 'built by jerks' because rock isn't glued like you do it is uncalled for and myopic. Do you use LVL's for studs at 12"o.c., welded steel girders and support beams and Simpson shear wall tie downs with 3/4" anchor bolts cast into foundation walls where you live? How would you feel about someone living in an earthquake fault zone concluding you build like a jerk because they do and you don't? 'Competent inspectors' and builders need to consider context when making judgements and accusations like yours. I suggest you do the same.
@@NextLevelCarpentry I know most ppl in the building trades hate when its glued. But with no disrespect, it does add raking strength to those walls that structurally support the building. BTW, do you have any experience or opinion on magnesium oxide wallboard?
@@nc3826 While glued rock does indeed add 'racking strength' to structurally supporting walls it's senseless IMHO to add it throughout a structure. When we encounter a structurally significant wall condition it is generally sheathed with an engineered nailing pattern with sheetrock screwed in a normal way as an overlay. Crazy how the 'shotgun' approach of gluing a whole house gets used instead. It should be embarrassing for me but complete unawareness of 'magnesium oxide wallboard' is not. I suppose I'll get 'schooled' on it as some point but as of now I'm no help to you on the topic. Thanks for adding your comment here... it adds to content value of TH-cam and I appreciate it. Best, Matt
@@NextLevelCarpentry The main reason I add my two cent was to interject magnesium oxide wallboard also called magnesia into the conversation. It much stronger than drywall so its also used to replace exterior sheathing and sub-flooring like OSB or even cement board as a backing for tiling. And is highly moisture resistant so it wont rot or promote mold. And it has a long list of advantages, like it being highly fire and insect resistant (I avoid using the word proof in this context). Its relatively new to the US market so production is still relatively low and there is a price premium still for it in the US. But in some markets more price competitive with the alternatives so Im guessing the price will come down in the US for it. But considering there exterior (and interior) sheathing versions of it. That come in different colors and texture like wood or brick. So no exterior cladding would be needed it could be cost competitive just on price alone for some applications. And its also being used to replace the OSB in SIPs (It tends to be more brittle than OSB so bracing to the middle of it is added sometimes too it)
But beside the high cost issue there are some horror stories of Chinese made magnesium oxide wallboard that had a range of issues outside of the US. I'm adding a few links below for it, just encase your curious about it. And if you ever decide take look at it or use it a job I would like to get your feedback on it. thx for your reply Nick
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Magnesium_oxide_wallboard
extremegreenbp.com/
www.northamericanmgo.com/
Good job I have done sheetrock or drywall for residential and Commercial from Twin Falls Idaho back to Sacramento California and this is an awesome tip. It may be faster to start smashing the wall with a hammer but the cleanup time takes forever like you said with buckets of crumbs plus all the Dust this solution is much cleaner and easier.
Great tips, thinking back, where were you 35 years ago when i did it the “hard way”?
Thanks
You're welcome... but if you must know, 35 years ago I was doing it the hard way too! 😁😎
I just remove some drywall today it made a mess and I was thinking to myself there’s gotta be an easier way less messy and sure enough you just showed me how to do it
Thanks
Frankie
Boston
I do asbestos abatement and this would very helpful when trying to minimize dust. We set up containment, run a negative air pressure machine, use wet methods, but it’ll still get a bit dusty cause we usually just break the drywall and snatch it out. I’ll have to try this on a project some time
Thanks for your comment LilGoon... I actually set up an improvised 'negative air pressure' system with a fan in a window to get a little air cross flow going to help with that bit of inevitable dust... just glad I don't have to deal with asbestos on a regular basis. Best, Matt
Nice method. I'm amazed at how many people will just rip and tear things because it's "faster" but they don't consider the time cleaning up the mess or repairing stuff they damaged, afterwards.
If you take care removing the sheetrock, you can reuse the same sheet when it is time to close the wall back up. I did a whole remodel where the insulation and wiring was upgraded and only four new sheets of sheetrock needed to be purchased for the whole house.
Chris Moore sounds like you are taking surgical sheetrock removal to a next level of your own Chris! Can't quite imagine how you are able to make the numbers work out with the relative low cost of new sheetrock but more power to you... no one knows better than the guy on the job what's the most practical and profitable way through... Best, Matt
@@NextLevelCarpentry I was working mostly on my own or with a single person who had minimal skills. The sheets were on with nails and came off pretty easy. The thing I did was to find my seams and pull the paper tape. That made it easy to get the sheet off the studs. The customer was happy to save money on materials, I didn't say anything about the time it would take, but I don't think it took much more time in demo and only a little bit more to float the seams after. Once I textured and painted, my walls look better than the original walls.
Chris Moore sounds like you did a great job of thinking and acting on the Fly which is often what it takes to get the job done... way to go!
Best, Matt
Used this technique on my basement drywall. Was amazed how well it worked. Seems like magic when you drill into a wall and find a screw right there.
Any time I hit 3 in a row I dash out and by Lotto tickets with hopes the lucky streak continues! Best, Matt
Very similar to the method I use. If I can get a pry bar under the sheet some how. Or I’ll knock a fist sized hole in a sheet. And start tugging the sheet fast but not hard. The constant back and forth causes all the nail/screw heads to pop through the paper. And I can then pull off a big piece. I pulled off a 2’x28’ Sheet like this doing a basement gut. The only hard part is getting the first couple of nail pops
Whatever works most efficiently, right? I like to use this method to extract the first few screws instead of punching a hole but use the method you describe anytime I can get away with it. That's usually with 1/2" rock that's nailed on and seldom with 5/8" rock that's screwed on, especially to metal studs. Pretty cool that you got such a huge 'money maker' piece to come off like that... that kind of luck makes for a profitable project which is nice once in awhile!
Best, Matt
This is the fastest and easiest way to remove drywall. Wiggle it off and let it slowly pop the screws out.
You must be luckier than I am muyoso, the 'wiggle it off' method never works for me with 5/8" rock on metal studs so I resort to exactly this method when other faster/easier methods fail... how about you? Best, Matt
Next Level Carpentry I guess. I’ve never had to do it with metal studs. Only the wooden ones. But I punch a starter hole because I always get the walls with nails and never screws.
With luck as good as your Billy Bob I sure hope you buy a lottery ticket now and again! Times I take on a project that requires sheetrock removal I think someone who owned stock in a fastener company was hired to install it and did't spare the screws/nails for my sake. 😒😏😎 Best, Matt
Great tips, Matthew. There is total quality in everything you do and that is the sign of experience. I don’t understand how the hacks of YT can complain about the time of this method when you are taking extra time to explain the technique. If you weren’t making a video you would rip through this in five minutes. I enjoy your channel more and more. Please keep posting your skills and humor and consider a video on managing a small carpenter business; estimates, materials etc. Thanks !
Idigbebop... thanks so much for voicing my thoughts on the world of TH-cam! I don't expect everyone to agree with me or even think my way is the best way but some of the comments are completely whack IMHO.
Wish I Could oblige you on a video about managing a small carpentry business but I am afraid you'd be disappointed and a bit surprised by the main message it would contain. From the outset my approach has always been the cost plus paradigm. I never make a killing on any job but I also never lose money and in the end for my personality type that's the most sensible solution. I'm way too optimistic to come up with a realistic estimate and the nature of the work I take on means there are too many change order situations involved. This puts me in a very narrow Market Niche but it is both successful enjoyable and profitable. I am in a drastic minority of contractors because most build their businesses, many successfully, on a bid platform. There are many good mentors and coaches out there for that style of work but as I say the only video I could do with any confidence or authority would be to explain and describe the merits benefits and opportunities in a Cost Plus paradigm. That probably doesn't help much but I hope it's good food for thought for you if you're considering or already building a small carpentry business of your own.
Best, Matt
Next Level Carpentry. Thank you, that is a very honest answer. I think your viewers would be very interested in not only your technical skills but your business approach, cost plus or otherwise. Work safe!
I do the same process but a little easier. First I use a mechanics magnet that extends like an antenna, and the reason is because it will locate screws that might be buried in the corners under a lot of compound, because it has a small head. I locate and chip out every screw head with the pointy end of my Snap-On body hammer, and then remove them with my cordless drill. I never cut the taping at the corners if I am installing a new sheet, instead I work the entire sheet loose and pull the joint compound and tape right off the adjoining panel all at once...that way re-taping and filling is very easy and you don't have to taper your filler a long way out from the corner joint because you didn't have to pile another layer on to what is already there.
Your 'refinements' of this process make good sense Mark... thanks for adding them here. The method of getting the full corner tape/mud to come out with the sheet is great for times when adjacent surfaces aren't both coming out. Funny you mention specifically a Snap-on body hammer with a pointy end... I bet I know EXACTLY the hammer you're talking about... got one in my shop toolbox that I've had since about 1978 or so... boy does THAT make me sound old or what?! Best, Matt
Thanks for your reply Matt. I laughed about your Snap -On Hammer. I'm getting up there in age myself, and I'm actually a retired auto collision repairman...started in the trade in 1980...so I'm not far behind you. And I appreciate your willingness to share your techniques with everyone. I live in a small mining town in the province of Manitoba, in Canada called Snow Lake. By the way, I'm not sure of your political inclinations but I have great respect and admiration for your president Donald Trump...don't believe everything you hear in the media about Canadians hating your president or your country because the majority of us will always be friends with our good neighbours to the south in the U.S.A. !
Great to 'meet' you Mark... our careers, interests and political persuasions are remarkably similar so thanks for adding personal elements to your comment... it's one of the best things about this whole TH-cam experience! Curious: did you transition from auto body to carpentry while still working or are you doing carpentry/ sheetrock stuff for yourself in 'retirement'? I put in about 4 years in a bodyshop in suburban Chicago just out of highschool. You no doubt remember those days when only the whimps wore respirators when inhaling all those toxic fumes, right? After 4 years of that I wanted to get some fresh air and to work outside... what better way than to be a framing carpenter, I figured. Never looked back and here I am... but I've ALWAYS made good use of the autobody experience which, if nothing else, gave me some decent metal working/welding skills and spraying a lacquer finish on woodwork projects? Easy peasy compared to pearls, metalics and enamels in the auto body world! Best, Matt
Yeah...the genius of TH-cam. To answer your question, I worked in auto body, got my journeyman's papers and at one point owned a shop...I was lucky enough to be the wimp that wore the respirator...but as the age of lacquer gave way to enamels and then base/clear I found out that any exposed skin could absorb the isocyanates in the hardeners we had to use. I left my trade because it is a dying trade here in Canada, and instead I started working at a gold mine in Snow lake. Now I work at a nickel mine in Thompson Manitoba . I'm not a carpenter, except by necessity. I bought an old mining house and after my upstairs bathroom water supply froze I had to gut the house and re-do (it can reach -40 F for weeks on end in winter up here). It's very hard to get competent renovators up here, and I am currently re-doing the drywall a renovator installed on my ceilings.So I appreciate your comment about cross pollination of ideas from one trade into the other...something I do myself that gives me great advantages. Cheers, and good health to you Matt!
The smart 'wimps' were the ones, like you, with enough sense to wear respirators... they also tend to outlive their 'macho' coworkers, right? Talk about finishing drywall... I remember thinking how much easier it is to sand dry taping mud than Bondo and how much more you can get away with with flat wall paint than buffed black lacquer! It's a veritable cake walk... except that there's 1,000s of square feet of it instead of just a panel or two! 😉🤣 Curious what work you do at the nickel mine? I'm in South Dakota's Black Hills where there's a rich history of mining so the process and magnitude of the industry is always fascinating. Best, Matt
Wow! So impressed that there are people with such dedication to their craft. I am about to remove drywall to add insulation batting and this gives me inspiration to try and do it myself as the handyman will never do it this clean.
Magnet studfinder. Never thought of that! Thanks.
Folding the sheets up and putting them into contractor clean up bags makes it so nice for clean up. Cool trick with the magnet! I hadn’t thought of that
Definitely helpful tricks when making a big mess isn't an option... otherwise it's too slow for full-on demo/tearout projects... so it's nice to have options, right?! Best, Matt
More great tips! Thanks for sharing.
Thanks Mike... I've wanted to do this video for some time now and finally the time and timing came together to get it done... thanks for 'liking' the tips! Best, Matt
Old time trades are the Best! Full of tricks! 👍 👍
Awesome tip!
Thanks for sayin', John... much appreciated! Hope it helps you out somewhere along the way... Best, Matt
We do this most of the time but in smaller sheets. We start out always with a smaller area for one reason. A lot of homes in our area they used construction adhesive on every stud to minimize nail pops. That really slows down the demo phase no matter what process you use.
I feel your pain Duane! This method is your best bet though for sure!
Best, Matt
I did remodel and reconstruction for years. Never used a sledge hammer unless I was forming concrete or removing it. But every idiot with a DIY show on TV lives to use the sledge hammer as the main tool for everything. Cabinets? Sledge hammer.
Window replacement? Sledge hammer. Drywall work? You guessed sledge hammer. 20 minutes of smashing 2 or three hours of cleaning and damage control. Never thought I'd see anyone use anything for demolition besides a sledge.
The other thing no one on TV seems to be able to do is paint with a roller.
Stitch Shifter... my sentiments EXACTLY! They do seem to be able to roll sod out green side up (on camera anyways) and some are actually pretty good at dropping shrubs in holes... if someone else has dug the hole first anyways 😏😩😉😁😎 Best, Matt
The only thing I use a sledge for is concrete and certain tile. With tile, I am more apt to use a small 2 lb hammer and a chipping bar. I have a variety of "things" my grandfather made (he was a marine machinist) that are like wide flat pry bars, or oversized chisels. Any way to keep mess to a minimum. Those home shows with sledge hammer demos drive me crazy.
David, I like the way you think but get the feeling those of us who think about working sensibly are in the minority these days... Best, Matt
Stitch Shifter, I agree with you 100% on the "Smash" technique used by too many! I see good kitchen cabinets get obliterated by sledge hammers. Those cabinets would be excellent in a garage or basement. I am a retired Carpenter and those "Remodel" or "Flip" shows always bothered me with demolition time.
@@DazedNConfuzed58 if you ever do any work in a doctor's office, surgery suite, hospital, recording studio, hotel, airport, port authority building, laboratory, testing facilities, they have incredibly high standards and procedures concerning any kind of dust or contamination. I've worked in all of them.
I did this 10 or so years ago in a huge room to do work behind the walls to eliminate pests. I was also able to reinstall the sheets with some prepainted walls in tact and minor touch up until color change and little mud. The neodymium refrigerator magnets I used were from staples were round, 3/8" 6mm by 1/2" 9mm approx and had a tiny indentation up grip. It worked great. I bought fingerprinting powder thinking it would be magnetic, but didn't work. Great minds think alike. Great job!
Thanks for commenting Ron... I like the way you think! Not sure I'd have the patience for re-using rock like you did but commend you for the effort. Love the 'finger printing powder' idea... sounds totally feasible to me... too bad it doesn't work. Gets me to thinking about copier toner... isn't that stuff magnetic? It would probably be far too messy regardless. Best, Matt
The pieces were precut, finished, less mess, solved a problem behind the wall, trim just went back, it was all worth the effort of finding the screws. You have a nice technique, and that feel for the screws comes natural. Most rock has about 5 screws, so it's semi predictable. Rocking the rock back and forth helps you locate odd ones. You may get pull throughs, but that's OK. I do want that nail pulling tool for rock installed the old school way.
Ron: Despite the rather 'clean' installation you still had to work with a purpose to make re-use possible. Nice. From the sound of the way you think and work I'm sure you'll love the slide hammer puller if you get one. There's a link in the video description above if you have trouble finding one locally. Best, Matt
Next Level Carpentry I'll be sure to buy one from your link. I love tools. So much in fact, I started cttoolsforsale in groups on Facebook in 2012 for my local Connecticut tool lovers. It's a hobby, and now you've introduced me to my next new useful tool. I'm gonna check out some more of your videos to see what other ingenious techniques you may have.
Very cool Ron... thanks for the interaction on this. There's a couple other tool reviews on Next Level Carpentry that might interest you. Search the video list for Merle Band Clamps and also the How Far Out Gauge... and let me know what you (and others in your FB Group? think. Best, Matt
Would the magnet work on screws in steel sruds? If not, any suggestions?
Absolutely Donald! In fact, it was for removing sheetrock from steel studs that I developed this method in the first place. It helps that 5/8" drywall is almost always used on steel stud projects so that puts screw heads 1/8" deep or or less and studs 5/8" deep minimum so it works like a charm!
Best, Matt
Bringing the hammer in "your working with three tools" when you only got two hands would make the job alot more difficult
Cowboy outfits love the the smash 'n bash method. They think it signals to the GC or client that they know what they're doing. 40 years drywall/tape work. Rock dust gets under the mask. If you're in for the long haul, this is the way to go if at all possible, and I have found it takes less time all in. Quiet lives matter. Thanks Matt - new sub.
Quiet lives matter... love that Walter! Thanks for new sub... every one counts and I appreciate 'em all! Best, Matt
Same to you Matt. BTW - you will no doubt have noticed that quiet lives also live longer. Best regards.
If you are doing a complete house remodel where all sheetrock is being removed without needing to worry about damaging other walls would you still use this method? Would it be faster if you take into consideration the time saved cleaning up?
It differs from job to job Jronman, but I tend to start with this, especially in difficult areas. Often though I'll use it to pull one side of a wall then gently kick the back of the rock on the other side of the wall with the bottom of the ball of my foot. That will usually work fastners loose or allow their heads to pop out the back and I can still remove large pieces intact which is the main benefit of this method. Thanks for watching and commenting! Best, Matt
JronmanBuilds I agree 100% it took him 20 minutes to do one sheet he said it was being demoed not saved
if your doing more than 2 sheets the clean up will be faster than finding all the screws.
Yes but you create lots of dust everywhere.
@@patharris4783 ,
That's what plastic is for 🙄
I haven’t caught up with your channel in a week or so, but this is another solid tidbit. I’ve been using this method for years myself, but I use a rare earth magnet which is out of a hard drive from a computer and a tiny cat claw. I wasted so much time and garbage bags before I learned how to do this method. As always Matt, thanks my friend. I love the videos. Simple common sense and sound experience in a practical manner is what I like.
Ryan Gwin I really appreciate your comment... seems like we're both able to appreciate the difference between working hard and working smart. Working smart can still be hard but not unnecessarily so😆 I've got plans for many many more videos but they're a little slow in coming with a ridiculously busy summer worth work and life schedule... Best, Matt
How long in real time it took you to take that wall off ?
I don't know for sure Rola because I obviously wasn't timing it but I'll assure you it is quite quick and efficient. Granted, it's slower when compared to yanking 1/2" rock that's attached with nails in wide open spaces, but with thicker rock like this, or thin rock in confined spaces fastened with too many screws, this is much more efficient overall IMHO. Best, Matt
This approach is perfect for drywall attached to plywood or to a garage header. In most situations i run an air scrubber, ducting the exhaust outside a window or door to control dust.
An air scrubber it a great way to manage inevitable dust Dope Inc... do you have a brand/model you prefer? I just use a fan in a window but it's not always effective. Thanks for your comment... Best, Matt
@@NextLevelCarpentry I am in the water damage restoration field. Most of the projects i'm on are residential floods so i use the small Air DefendAir 500 by Dri-Eze.
@@dopeinc.7936 Looks like a pretty sweet unit:
www.amazon.com/dp/B01N55N5VY/?ref=idea_lv_dp_ov_d&tag=aiponsite-20&linkCode=ic6&ascsubtag=amzn1.ideas.29WVINIJF4EUJ
I'll strongly consider getting one of these for future tear-out jobs because CFM rating and compatible flex duct look to be perfect for our sort of work... thanks for sharing this! Best, Matt
Wow you could almost reuse them
The problem with used drywall is that you waste $10 worth of time patching and filling holes to have a butchered job not to mention all the time it takes to sort and find pieces to fit. You are better off spending the $8 for a brand new board and finishing the job with new uncontaminated, clean board.
Damn I made a video showing this technique and I mentioned that I saw a video(yours) but forgot the channel. 3 months later I subscribed for your wood working.
SO after you perform all that surgery finding the screws or nails...how badly do you feel when you find out that the sheetrock was glued on?!!!
lol, but true
still makes it easier to pry off but sucks nonetheless.
Wow! He makes it look so easy. I'm finishing up some minor renovations that were started and not completed by some contractors. The sheetrock I need to replace is in my home office and I didn't want a huge mess. Thanks!
I think you can easily tell the good contractors from the bad just by the comments. So many positives here, the main being that of dust control. Not only the dust created in the workspace but the dust that travels to adjoining rooms and through the HVAC system. Yes guys, you ARE responsible for dust that you create. Also, the potential damage to water lines from someone bashing them with a sledge. I can actually see a time savings here. If you had 1 guy make one trip to the dumpster this way or many trips carrying buckets of little pieces. Besides, you still have to remove all the screws and nails either way. Will give this a try. Thanks.
Thanks Steve... I always appreciate a sensible comment like yours to re-focus the narrative... it can really get sideways with some off topic, misguided ones. You sound like the kind person who will find this quite practical and useful. Best, Matt
great method and I agree with everyone. They way to remove cabinets is the same way they put them up. Find the screws and take them out whole. One thing I have learned recently is if you use a cordless impact it will find the center of the screw as long as you find the head. I removed a plenty of floor screws that had glue on top of them.. It was like magic. Not one screwed was stripped.
Make it easier on you self kneepads cheap way to save the knee
Yeah, I know what you mean, Phillip... but they're so uncomfortable to wear unless really necessary 😩 Thanks for commenting! Best, Matt
I usually wait till my knees are sore then put on my knee pads then its to late lol
Great video, I have been doing remodels for 35 years, and work alone most of the time. And when I can find a cleaner , quieter way, I’m all for it. As I’m sure you know the cleaner the demo the less time and labor for the reassembling of the project. I have been using an oscillating saw ? But when your doing a high end bath with the client still living there and have 6 other bathrooms to use I still want to be dust free. Also I find older clients do not like a lot of noise ? Again thanks for you tips.
Thanks for your comment(s) Super Man... sounds like we've got a similar client base and work history track record. I tell my clients that their not being home when I'm working is like using anesthesia during surgery... there's certain unpleasantries in life that you should just avoid if possible! But even with them gone I don't like to put up with unnecessary noise, dust etc whenever possible. Somehow many years in the same occupation seems to have lead us to similar conclusions 😎 Best, Matt
Not much dust
Much less than other methods, that's for sure... although it still is 'demolition' work and makes for disappointing results on any legitimate white glove test 😁😁😎